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Latest Restoration - Sprunger 10" Table Saw

Sprung

Amateur Sawdust Maker
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Matt
As I've mentioned, I'm currently right-sizing/downsizing in the shop. One of the things that I'm currently working on selling is my Unisaw. It's a great saw, but it's honestly too much saw for me at this point in my life. I don't spend a lot of time in the shop. And I have to move it several times a year, whenever I have to do maintenance or repairs on either of our vehicles. It's getting old moving around a roughly 500lb saw sometimes more than I use it. So it was time for something lighter. And on a better mobile base. Enter a Sprunger 10" table saw that I've had disassembled and on a shelf in the shop for far too long.

I originally intended to paint this, but the original paint is in pretty good shape, so I gave it a really good cleaning. Cleaned up all the rusty stuff (plenty was rusty when I got it). New bearings, and some other stuff. Saw came on a stand that was originally from a Delta Shop and I made a new top for it from Ash. Mounted my Vega fence on it - this is the third saw I've had this fence on. It's a great fence. Wasn't able to mount the original rear rail that came with the fence, due to the design of it, so I made a new one with a piece of angle iron salvaged from an old bed rail.

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And here's the part that I'm really proud of and happy with - the mobile base I built for it. I needed a mobile base that was not only easy to move, but was easy to level repeatedly as I move my table saw and need to level it again at least several times a year and the floor is very sloped in this area, with a floor drain nearby. Commercially made mobile bases could do the easy to move around, but the easy to level again and again not so much, with small leveling feet with small threads. There is more than 1" of slope in my garage floor in the area between the two ends of the mobile base...

So I built my own. Including my own levelling feet. These levelling feet are designed so that the feet - which are hockey pucks - are loose and don't turn with the threaded rod to level with, so the whole thing doesn't shift around when leveling it. Used 1/2" threaded rod and some threaded inserts I found on Amazon that I brazed into some plates to mount them. And you can see my absolutely beautiful brazing job, done with one of those little Map/Oxy torches - and I'd never done this before. But it works!

This is an absolutely stout mobile base that moves easily and levels even easier. It took me longer than I would have liked to build it, but I'm glad I put the time into it - it's exactly what I wanted and needed out of a mobile base and suits my needs better than anything I could buy.

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First project to come off this saw was the shoe cubby for our camper that I posted in the shop thread. Used it again today as my wife has me working on a couple more projects for the camper. It's no Unisaw, but it runs really nice and will certainly get the job done for me. I'm happy with it.

And, hey, it's got my name on it - without having to scribble it on with a marker!
 
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  • #3
That base is ingenious. I have bookmarked this page for whenever I buy a new machine or move my remaining ones.

Thank you. I think I've set a high standard for myself with this base and, should I ever need another mobile base, am going to have to build another like this one. I have used hockey pucks in the shop for quite some time now as feet on benches and stands. They work great as pads on the bottom of the feet of the splayed legs of the steel stands often found on vintage Delta machinery. I've also used them on a couple workbenches. Detailed here, on page two of the thread (and also shows a pic of one on the foot of a Delta stand as well) - though wish I had thought of making them swivel free of the bolt back then. Might have to modify them on my workbench someday.

I used these weldable threaded nuts, liking that they had a long threaded area that would hopefully not wear out with repeated use.

And instead of buying a piece of steel and going through the hassle of cutting it into all the 2" squares I needed (8 in total), I purchased these and then drilled out the hole to the size needed with a step bit and then drilled the four outer holes for the screws and countersunk them (with a drillbit my father had ground to the angle for a countersink bit for use in metal for me many years ago).
 
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