Looking for Hawthorn, Pear, Apple, and or Beech

ntc.online

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In my introduction post I discuss my hobby building 19th century long nose golf clubs. Traditionally these clubs were made out of hawthorn, pear, apple, and then beech before persimmon ultimately took over in the 1890s all the way up until about the 1990s when metal drivers became the norm.

In case you did not see my intro post I discuss that the earliest clubs were made from hawthorn and pear woods and they specifically came from branch off shoots as seen in the photos below.

Photo close up_2.jpg Photo close up_3.jpg

Club makers also cut their clubheads from processed blocks as seen in this photo of a 10" W x 12" L x 3" D block of maple which can yield about 6 clubs.

PXL_20230413_024848548 (1).jpg

In conclusion:
I am interested in purchasing hawthorn (crataegus species) in branch or block form, as well as apple, pear, and beech in block form. The blocks need to be 10"- 12" long to account for the length of the face templates (see the above photo) and at least 5" wide which will fit about 2 templates, but ideally around 10 or 12" which will give about 6 or 7 clubs. The thickness of the block needs to be at least 10/4 (2.25") but 12/4 (3") is fine since it is more common.

Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions.
 

ntc.online

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Very cool. Isn't grain direction an important consideration as well?
Yes, plain sawn or rift sawn boards are ideal. The board in the picture with 6 club templates on it shows the grain for a block. I can look at pictures of what you have and let you know if it will work for me. Do you have any of the woods I am looking for?
 

Mr. Peet

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Funny, just so happen to have hawthorne, pear and apple in the last load of firewood the wife brought in. She put it on top of the European beech and American beech in the wood bin. I guess I could pull some out, just don't feel like milling any of it....
 

brown down

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I have some curly pear that might be big enough and curly apple but I don’t know if I have anything that big
 

ntc.online

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Funny, just so happen to have hawthorne, pear and apple in the last load of firewood the wife brought in. She put it on top of the European beech and American beech in the wood bin. I guess I could pull some out, just don't feel like milling any of it....
Could you send some pictures and dimensions of the hawthorn and pear? Are they all seasoned?
 

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Could you send some pictures and dimensions of the hawthorn and pear? Are they all seasoned?
I cut the pear in 2009 ish... about 6" diameter. Several pieces of hawthorne, most too small. Got a Washington hawthorn about 4-5" diameter. Try getting pictures with daylight.
 

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I have all the beech you can possibly want,,, clean, spalted..raw,, pretty much whatever you can think of. Let me knowhat precise sizes you may want etc,, and I can simply accomondate. It is something I have to cut or I can show you pics of an un processed beech tree. lol
 
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ntc.online

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I have all the beech you can possibly want,,, clean, spalted..raw,, pretty much whatever you can think of. Let me knowhat precise sizes you may want etc,, and I can simply accomondate. It is something I have to cut or I can show you pics of an un processed beech tree. lol
Amazing! I will definitely reach out. Thank you!
 

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Yes, plain sawn or rift sawn boards are ideal. The board in the picture with 6 club templates on it shows the grain for a block. I can look at pictures of what you have and let you know if it will work for me. Do you have any of the woods I am looking for?
I don't sorry. I have a mint set of MacGregor persimmon woods tho.
 

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I cut the pear in 2009 ish... about 6" diameter. Several pieces of hawthorne, most too small. Got a Washington hawthorn about 4-5" diameter. Try getting pictures with daylight.
Pictures would be great, 5" hawthorn should be enough to get a couple clubs.
 

sleevecc

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Amazing! I will definitely reach out. Thank you!
You had asked somewhere if this were American or English Beech,, American I am sure.. Its also a bit spalted at this point..prolly not what you are looking for unless you are stabilizing the wood itself.

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