Micro-adjusting a crosscut sled

[bradleyheathhays]

Morning woodworkers. I'd like to make a crosscut sled with left-to-right micro-adjustment accuracy. I'm not aware of any screw-type micro-fence adjustment device that can be adapted to a table sled, but then again, I'm not all that familiar with all the gadgets and doodads out there. Any suggestion for an adjuster that would work on a sled?

A picture of the device employed on a sled would be immensely helpful.

 

[SENC]

Morning woodworkers. I'd like to make a crosscut sled with left-to-right micro-adjustment accuracy. I'm not aware of any screw-type micro-fence adjustment device that can be adapted to a table sled, but then again, I'm not all that familiar with all the gadgets and doodads out there. Any suggestion for an adjuster that would work on a sled?

A picture of the device employed on a sled would be immensely helpful.

I may not be understanding your question, but if you mean a stop block with adjustment capability for your sled, I bought a couple of these when I was building a sled a while back. Just needs a t-slot built into the top of the fence. I'm sure there are other styles/types perhaps with screw adjustments, but this one is quick and easy - and usable on either side of the blade.

 

[Nature Man]

I may not be understanding your question, but if you mean a stop block with adjustment capability for your sled, I bought a couple of these when I was building a sled a while back. Just needs a t-slot built into the top of the fence. I'm sure there are other styles/types perhaps with screw adjustments, but this one is quick and easy - and usable on either side of the blade.

View attachment 289658

Where did you purchase this stop block from? Chuck

 

[SENC]

Where did you purchase this stop block from? Chuck

The Katz-Moses Universal No Deflection Stop Block - VERSION 2.0.1

The Katz-Moses Universal No Deflection Stop Block has: ZERO DEFLECTION (no other stop block on the market can say the same) Can be 2.25-3.75” tall with positive stops every 1/2” Has a 1” micro-adjust feature. Don’t worry about having to reset your stop block. Use the micro adjust feature to...

kmtools.com

 

[bradleyheathhays]

Thanks for the suggestion SENC. I was afraid I hadn't described things well enough. My specific problem is I'm dealing with a larger slab of wood than you'd usually put on a crosscut sled, and I don't trust the usual micro-gauges to keep things lined up right. What I've imagined is a sled with a movable fence that advances from the left. The solution I've landed on is to make my large sled with a few T tracks embedded in running left to right. I can rig a block and fine adjustment screw to each track and that can articulate to a guide fence. That should allow for even advancement pressure from the left all across the face of what I'm cutting. Clear as mud now, huh? :)

 

[sprucegum]

Thanks for the suggestion SENC. I was afraid I hadn't described things well enough. My specific problem is I'm dealing with a larger slab of wood than you'd usually put on a crosscut sled, and I don't trust the usual micro-gauges to keep things lined up right. What I've imagined is a sled with a movable fence that advances from the left. The solution I've landed on is to make my large sled with a few T tracks embedded in running left to right. I can rig a block and fine adjustment screw to each track and that can articulate to a guide fence. That should allow for even advancement pressure from the left all across the face of what I'm cutting. Clear as mud now, huh? :)

I've watched a couple of YouTube videos about setup's similar to what you are looking for . They use 3/8". 16 tpi threaded rod for the micro adjustment, so one turn equals 1/16". If you build one be sure to post some pictures, it's something that I would like to build.

 

[SENC]

I'm think I'm following you now - the goal is to keep the piece from shifting during the cut, right? If I have that correct, I'm not sure I'd go to the effort of making a secondary fence. As I see it, the stop block doesn't serve to hold the piece in place, only to allow repeatable cuts. As the primary fence is the reference that "holds" the piece at the correct angle, wouldn't it be easier to devise a clamping plan to make sure your slab doesn't move? T-tracks (or similar) in the fence and/or base should allow a solid, easy to apply clamp that would be more consiste than trying to keep a secondary fence perfectly square. Depending on what you're doing, some adhesive backed sandpaper on the fence may be sufficient.