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Mounting large burl cap

WB_Chris.C

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Anyone have a good mounting solution to turn larger (14”+) burl caps that completely preserves the bark? Wanting to try a winged bowl for mounted display without altering the back. My only solution thus far is to just set a small mortise, then go back to bore it through at the end and soften the edges. Not the worst but that only looks good for thinner caps, 1”-2” and I would like to work with 4”+ substantial pieces for more dramatic turned portion. Appreciate any ideas.
 

Nature Man

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Watching with interest. I have a couple of burls that I would like to turn some day, and am perplexed how to get underway with them. Chuck
 

Nubsnstubs

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Anyone have a good mounting solution to turn larger (14”+) burl caps that completely preserves the bark? Wanting to try a winged bowl for mounted display without altering the back. My only solution thus far is to just set a small mortise, then go back to bore it through at the end and soften the edges. Not the worst but that only looks good for thinner caps, 1”-2” and I would like to work with 4”+ substantial pieces for more dramatic turned portion. Appreciate any ideas.
Chris, go to www.woodturnerstools.com. Check out the Chuck Plate. I invented it back in August, 2010. I haven't used a spur or a faceplate since then unless the piece I'm turning is too small to meet the dims of the inner ring of screws on the Chuck Plate. So far, my largest piece I've rounded is 13" long x 18 round, Mesquite with a lot of cracks and dowels bridging the cracks.
Below is a picture of what a Chuck Plate actually is. It mounts into a chuck thereby eliminating the need to remove the chuck and mounting a face plate, hence the name, Chuck Plate. It's designed to work on a 50MM chuck because it's the only one I had when I made the first ones. I've done near one thousand pieces so far and have only had 2-4 pieces launch. Pretty safe in my prejudiced opinion.
I also use if in removing my tenons with my other patented invention called a Tail Stock Steady which is also featured on my website.
IMG_1957.JPG

IMG_0569.JPG
Here is the largest piece so far. I started it over 2 years ago, but totaled my PM 3520 last year, so now have to wait until I get my counterfeit PM working.
IMG_6065.jpeg IMG_6064.jpeg IMG_6063.jpeg

If you have any interest or questions, please contact me here through pm's.

I hope this post doesn't hijack your thread. ................ Nubs
 
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WB_Chris.C

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Chris, go to www.woodturnerstools.com. Check out the Chuck Plate. I invented it back in August, 2010. I haven't used a spur since then unless the piece I'm turning is too small to meet the dims of the inner ring of screws on the Chuck Plate. So far, my largest piece I've rounded is 13" long x 18 round, Mesquite with a lot of cracks and dowels bridging the cracks.
Below is a picture of what a Chuck Plate actually is. It mounts into a chuck thereby eliminating the need to remove the chuck and mounting a face plate, hence the name, Chuck Plate. It's designed to work on a 50MM chuck because it's the only one I have when I made the first ones. I've done near one thousand pieces so far and have only had 2-4 pieces launch. Pretty safe in my prejudiced opinion.
I also use if in removing my tenons with my other patented invention called a Tail Stock Steady which is also featured on my website.
View attachment 275149

View attachment 275150
Here is the largest piece so far. I started it over 2 years ago, but totaled my PM 3520 last yeast, so now have to wait until I get my counterfeit PM working.
View attachment 275151View attachment 275152View attachment 275153

If you have any interest , please contact me here through pm's.

I hope this post doesn't hijack your thread. ................ Nubs
I actually have one from you already but didn’t think of playing with that because of the potential to damage stripped bark areas. Maybe some rubber tips or a rubber contact mat..?
 

Nubsnstubs

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Yes. Guess I had not thought about using it on the pointy side of a burl. Now I’m engaged! Thanks! Chuck
Use it and let me know how it works for you. Too many of you guys have them and don't use them. It's aggravating spending all that time designing and making the Chuck Plates to hear it sits in a corner or drawer not being used. I'm done griping. ................ Nubs
 

WB_Chris.C

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Use it and let me know how it works for you. Too many of you guys have them and don't use them. It's aggravating spending all that time designing and making the Chuck Plates to hear it sits in a corner or drawer not being used. I'm done griping. ................ Nubs
I use mine, just not an everyday, basic tool. Sort of like that one weird tool everyone has for shaping that was never intended to be used with wood on a lathe. It’s for specific situations. This may be another one. I’ll report back
 

Nubsnstubs

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I actually have one from you already but didn’t think of playing with that because of the potential to damage stripped bark areas. Maybe some rubber tips or a rubber contact mat..?
If you don't screw all the screws into the wood, but the ones you do , they will leave a hole . If it's not screwed in tight enough, it will spin and leave a torn line. You will learn real quick how to adjust each piece. All my turnings have had the screw dents in the future bowl, but when hogged out will remove all traces of what you use at the start on the piece. It was made to mount pieces easily and safely so you can turn a tenon on the other end or assist in tenon removal. ............. Nubs
 

Nubsnstubs

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I have the Elio chuck. Does anyone have both? If so which is superior and why?
Hmmmm, I have both. After having my Chuck plate for a couple years, I saw my first Elio chuck. I figured I needed one to make a comparison, so got one.
My observation is; You need to remove the chuck to get the Elio chuck onto your lathe. That takes a few seconds to remove, then another couple to get the Elio in the spindle, and then you have to remove it when you either have the ready for more work to be done to complete the piece.
The Chuck Plate is a tool that you just mount into your chuck, set your piece onto the face of the CP, bring up the tail stock, and tighten the piece so it can be worked. It was designed to turn Cholla, but I discovered a couple weeks after doing the Cholla pieces that it worked great on pretty much anything I ended up mounting. After making my Aluminum prototypes, I discovered another operation it would work and that was using it with a plate that fit some of the screws and used as a Rim Chuck for removing the tenon and bottom shaping operation.
The biggest advantage to the Chuck Plate, you do not need to remove the chuck when using it, hence the name, Chuck Plate.

If you want to see some videos of being used, go to my website, www.woodturnerstools.com . There are a few videos that will take you to Youtube where there are more. It shows me using it. .................. Nubs
 
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