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My setup

chatometry

chatometry

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Paolo
I've come up with this setup to chainsaw-mill small logs. It works fine, I can get some nice small boards like the sumac ones I show below. However I can't find any similar example on the web, so I am wondering if there's anything I am missing... maybe a hidden danger I cannot spot?

Basically the saw is fixed to the table with a spacer, and I feed the log as if it were a jointer.

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I fix a plate on the back of the log to prevent rolling:

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This is the result :)

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BTW this log was on the ground for months, it even had mushroom on, yet neither spalting nor rotting!

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Genius! Just need to insure the clamps on your jig are secure. Sure like the results! Chuck
 
Real pretty wood!

Thinking about feeding wood into a clamped down contrivance that holds a chainsaw running at top speed gives me a very nervous feeling. I wouldn't do it. However I do not argue with the results.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
JonathanH said:
Real pretty wood!

Thinking about feeding wood into a clamped down contrivance that holds a chainsaw running at top speed gives me a very nervous feeling. I wouldn't do it. However I do not argue with the results.
Click to expand...
The chainsaw is bolted to the table with two 5/16" bolts, and only the "fence" is clamped.

I think the saw is installed in the same attitude as in a classic chainsaw milling setup; in this attitude does the blade get correct lubrication, or do I need to provide extra oil?

Thanks!
 
Amazing idea. It does however raise safety concerns in event of the chain breaking. I would just bolt some pegs to the table at the right space and they should stop any major whippage.
 
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  • #7
That's a good idea, and maybe e longer / taller fence as well.
 
I would try to work it so I wasnt pushing the last foot or so of the cut. A chainsaw width of finger is hard to replace. Even a bandsaw blade width isn't fun... Damhik. A spring loaded roller to hold the log down might be good for the last couple cuts at least. I would have to see what was laying around before making suggestions as to how to make it. I tend to use things near at hand
 
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  • #9
Thanks for the suggestion. I use a pushstick, to avoid getting closer, but some sort of roller makes sense.
 
I did the same set-up when I was a teenager. However, I lacked the steady block on the back of the round. That is a great idea as it minimizes twist also. And in many cases, you only need it for the first pass, so the push block can be used for many rounds.

That chainsaw has a pump, so the oiler should work fine, you just need to figure out if it is enough or too much oil. Oil need can change with every piece. You can also turn the oiler way down and run water like a band mill. That power head is way big for most small rounds.

A higher fence does add safety. However, if a chain breaks, there are only a very few directions it should go, and they are all in one plain for the most part. Where you stand and work does matter. Does that saw have a throttle lock? I taped the trigger on my saw so I would have 2 hands on the piece being milled.

Are you using a ripping chain or a standard chain? They make chains just for milling. A bar nose guard might be an idea too. It can act as another chain catch if the chain brakes.
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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Thanks for the many suggestions!
I am not experienced, so I am learning a lot from this.

The way the saw is fixed shows the oil plug on the top, so I think that the pump is being correctly fed... however the blade seems to be dry and hot after a few cuts, so I am adding some extra lubrication every two cuts.

I don't have a throttle lock but I can make one.
I will surely look for a bar nose guard and for a ripping chain (if I can find it...)

Paolo
 
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  • #12
I just upgraded to a Makita electric chainsaw. (it is an upgrade for this specific task, but by no means an electtic saw is better than a petrol one)
I made a better "fence" and and I put a bucket below the saw to collect the dust... well... it works :)

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