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Plywood chair prototype

Botch Studio

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We’ve just uploaded some photos of the latest stage of our plywood armchair build and wanted to share the progress with the community. This chair started as an experimental furniture concept featuring sculptural forms and a unique mortise and tenon construction, and we’re now moving into the finishing and refinement phase. After evaluating the prototype, we decided to completely dismantle the chair so we could properly prepare each component for finishing and make a few final adjustments before reassembly.

One of the biggest changes was the finish. Our original plan was to create a high-contrast look using different colours across the main sections, but after some testing in the workshop we made a last-minute decision to go all-in with Signal Red Osmo on all four primary components. It was a bit of a gamble, but once the stain started going on it became clear that the bold monochromatic approach really suited the shape and character of the chair. The finish does a great job of highlighting the curves and joinery details while giving the piece a much stronger visual identity.

The chair has now been reassembled, with the joints secured using wedges, and we’re really pleased with how it’s coming together so far. There are still a few stages left before we can call it finished, but it’s already looking like one of our most successful furniture projects to date. We’ve uploaded images here on the forum for anyone interested in seeing the current state of the build. If you’d like to watch the process of dismantling the chair, sanding the components, and applying the Signal Red Osmo finish, we’ve also included a link to the YouTube video. We’d love to hear your thoughts on the design and whether you’d have gone with the all-red finish or stuck with a contrasting colour scheme.


Thanks,
Botch Studio

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Mike Hill

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Cool! My only thought is to put some kind of edge banding. The plywood will eventually splinter. Don't ask me how I know.
 

Mike Hill

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will baltic birch splinter like regular ply?
Oh yeh, Some may argue maybe not as much! Birch is used for door skins a lot. I like the new days of buying commercial wood doors that are prefinished. Gone are the days of needing to get the painting sub to finish the doors as soon as possible to keep splintering of the edges to a minimum. One of the reasons almost all hospitals went to P-lam doors a long time ago.
 
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Nubsnstubs

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@Botch Studio, all I've got to say is good luck with your new project as i believe it's going to fail. Reason is, I have experience in a project very similar but better looking with fewer parts. I'll show examples later if you are interested. The things I've made include a 5' table for camping, a shooting bench that I actually got a patent on, a bunk bed with a ladder and several other things that will incorporate the elements for assembly.
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Back in about '89, a Con man contacted me and told me he had a project that the world would accept without question as it was unique. I didn't buy into any of his explanations, but was willing to clean up all the hand cut edges and make all dimensions accurate so the parts fit correctly. He had a child's rocking chair, desk, and table that you could assemble in less than 30 to 60 seconds with no tools needed. Five parts were required for the chair, 8 pieces for the desk because it had a seat built in for the kids to be able to sit at. The table had only 4 parts.
I made jigs to make the hooks and slots for assembly.
This is a jig I made to be used on my Pin Router. The jig is for a step stool I made later on, but is on the same lines as the original jigs, just different shapes on the chair and desk. On this jig here, it can be used for an end from 12" high to 30". I would cut my piece needed size, lock it into place with the De Sta Co's(clamp with the red handle), and then rout the holes and then the top shape.
IMG_7117.jpeg

This shows a 12" end with the approximate location on the jig. I normally used a piece of Baltic scrap at the bottom for the different sizes I was making. The detail at the bottom was done on my jointer to have the item to sit flatter on an uneven surface.
IMG_7118.jpeg

This picture shows a side I made for a portable camping toilet. The TP holder hole is the indicator. It was made within the last 10 years and is the prototype for the others I never made. That slot is for a bottom I added to the stool to turn it into a storage box.
IMG_7120.jpeg

This is the fit. I believe the top is at 16 or 17" from the floor but I've made them from 6" up to the 17" height. Later today if anyone is interested, I'll post pictures of the finished toilet. It's impressive. :lol2:
IMG_7124.jpeg

This was put together in haste. Anything that is confusing, please do not hesitate to question me. ........... Nubs.
 

Nature Man

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@Botch Studio, all I've got to say is good luck with your new project as i believe it's going to fail. Reason is, I have experience in a project very similar but better looking with fewer parts. I'll show examples later if you are interested. The things I've made include a 5' table for camping, a shooting bench that I actually got a patent on, a bunk bed with a ladder and several other things that will incorporate the elements for assembly.
.
Back in about '89, a Con man contacted me and told me he had a project that the world would accept without question as it was unique. I didn't buy into any of his explanations, but was willing to clean up all the hand cut edges and make all dimensions accurate so the parts fit correctly. He had a child's rocking chair, desk, and table that you could assemble in less than 30 to 60 seconds with no tools needed. Five parts were required for the chair, 8 pieces for the desk because it had a seat built in for the kids to be able to sit at. The table had only 4 parts.
I made jigs to make the hooks and slots for assembly.
This is a jig I made to be used on my Pin Router. The jig is for a step stool I made later on, but is on the same lines as the original jigs, just different shapes on the chair and desk. On this jig here, it can be used for an end from 12" high to 30". I would cut my piece needed size, lock it into place with the De Sta Co's(clamp with the red handle), and then rout the holes and then the top shape.
View attachment 289328

This shows a 12" end with the approximate location on the jig. I normally used a piece of Baltic scrap at the bottom for the different sizes I was making. The detail at the bottom was done on my jointer to have the item to sit flatter on an uneven surface.
View attachment 289329

This picture shows a side I made for a portable camping toilet. The TP holder hole is the indicator. It was made within the last 10 years and is the prototype for the others I never made. That slot is for a bottom I added to the stool to turn it into a storage box.
View attachment 289330

This is the fit. I believe the top is at 16 or 17" from the floor but I've made them from 6" up to the 17" height. Later today if anyone is interested, I'll post pictures of the finished toilet. It's impressive. :lol2:
View attachment 289331

This was put together in haste. Anything that is confusing, please do not hesitate to question me. ........... Nubs.
Think you should post pics of the finished toilet.
 
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