Hi, I cleaned my chuck jaws today and one jaw screw wonnt come out and the allen head is starting to round what can I do< the chuck is a NOVA G3
Screw stuck
- Thread starter Karda
- Start date
Take the screw with you to an Ace Hardware store. Get not just one, but several that match the thread size. The cost should be about 60-90 cents as apposed to buying them from nova. Of course, the head size is going to be just a tad larger then the hole, but the easiest thing to do is remove all the jaws, mount the chuck back into place. With the chuck key in place, tighten the jaw mounts until they are tight on the screw. If you have carbide, use it to remove a little material off the OD of the screw head. The amount you remove is about 1/32". Loosen the jaw things , remove the screw and see if it fits in the screw sockets on the jaws. If not, remove some more. Since you got more than one screw, do them all as you will probably need some new ones later. ................. Nubs
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #3
Thanks Jerry I didn't know there were over the counter scews to fit the chuck. How do I get the screw out of the chuck, it realy in there ans the head is starting to round
Here are a couple of ideas. The industrial printing equipment that I ran for a couple of decades had allen fasteners everywhere. 'Ive dealt with hundredss of stripped allen head screws / bolts.
1. Use a tight fitting allen wrench. Hold it so that the angle stays straight when you turn it. Give it a tap from a small hammer to seat it tightly if needed.
2. Take the all wrench to a grinder and grind off the rounded off edges at the tip of it. This will give a sharp grip edge to the tool.
3. If completely stripped sharpen a punch to a needle tip. Use it to drive on the outside perimeter of the screw to loosen. This is the most effective method if the screw becomes completely stripped.
1. Use a tight fitting allen wrench. Hold it so that the angle stays straight when you turn it. Give it a tap from a small hammer to seat it tightly if needed.
2. Take the all wrench to a grinder and grind off the rounded off edges at the tip of it. This will give a sharp grip edge to the tool.
3. If completely stripped sharpen a punch to a needle tip. Use it to drive on the outside perimeter of the screw to loosen. This is the most effective method if the screw becomes completely stripped.
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Put some penetrating oil on it and give it time to wick. Liquid wrench is ok, Kroll is better, and if you can mix 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid, it is the best. One drop from your car’s dipstick and a drop of acetone is all you need.
If the head is stripped, a back out screw extractor is called for.
If the head is stripped, a back out screw extractor is called for.
If you'd rather not have to work on the screws so they fit, you can buy a set of 8 (plus a couple of the screws that keep the chuck from unwinding from the drive spindle when it's in reverse) from Nova ... LINK
Costs more ($22 for 8), but they don't require any fettling. The idea of clamping a screw by its threads makes me a bit uncomfortable - if the threads get damaged (slightly crushed) the screw is even more likely to jam in its hole next time it's tightened. But that's me - if you're good with it, save the $$
Costs more ($22 for 8), but they don't require any fettling. The idea of clamping a screw by its threads makes me a bit uncomfortable - if the threads get damaged (slightly crushed) the screw is even more likely to jam in its hole next time it's tightened. But that's me - if you're good with it, save the $$
I guess I should have clarified. Get the grade 8 screws. I guess that's the grade they're selling as they are in the bins that have lids on them with all the other Grade 8 stuff. ............... Nubs