Shop plans

[frankp]

It's been a while since I posted. Life has turned another corner though. We're in a new house and that means a new shop. We have an existing shed that is ~9'6" by about 13 feet and I plan to extend it to be about 30 feet long but the same depth because I can't extend that dimension.

I have a 14" bandsaw, a small table saw (though planning to upgrade once the shop has power), a jet mini lathe with bed extension, a full size drill press, a 12" compound miter saw, a 13" planer, a 24" by 36" router table, and lots of hand power tools. I do mostly random projects so I don't have a particular need for a lot of open space or even a "finishing" table though I might build one anyway. I have an 8 foot "new fangled workbench" (https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/new-fangled-workbench) (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/thr...485/?post_id=196164&nested_view=1#post-196164) which I might shrink or might not. Many of the features I don't use as I had originally planned. I do have a harbor freight dust collector and will build a separator for that. I'm thinking I'll put that in an "outside" space to try and reduce noise and run solid pipe/hose throughout the shop.

So what else would you put in a shop like this? I'm thinking of a storage rack for lumber and possibly one for ply, and I have some outfeed conveyers that are mobile and adjustable height.

I'm looking for layout suggestions and ideas of what you've added to your shop that has been really helpful (or those that might not get used as much) so I can try to do this once and get it right.

 

[daniscool]

It's been a while since I posted. Life has turned another corner though. We're in a new house and that means a new shop. We have an existing shed that is ~8'6" by about 12 feet and I plan to extend it to be about 30 feet long but the same depth because I can extend that dimension.

I have a 14" bandsaw, a small table saw (though planning to upgrade once the shop has power), a jet mini lathe with bed extension, a full size drill press, a 12" compound miter saw, a 13" planer, a 24" by 36" router table, and lots of hand power tools. I do mostly random projects so I don't have a particular need for a lot of open space or even a "finishing" table though I might build one anyway. I have an 8 foot "new fangled workbench" (https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/new-fangled-workbench) (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/thr...485/?post_id=196164&nested_view=1#post-196164) which I might shrink or might not. Many of the features I don't use as I had originally planned. I do have a harbor freight dust collector and will build a separator for that. I'm thinking I'll put that in an "outside" space to try and reduce noise and run solid pipe/hose throughout the shop.

So what else would you put in a shop like this? I'm thinking of a storage rack for lumber and possibly one for ply, and I have some outfeed conveyers that are mobile and adjustable height.

I'm looking for layout suggestions and ideas of what you've added to your shop that has been really helpful (or those that might not get used as much) so I can try to do this once and get it right.

I love hand tools. I still use power tools, particularly for the roughing stage but hand tools are so awesome.
They also greatly profit from a good workbench like the Nicholson or roubo.

 

[Nature Man]

It's been a while since I posted. Life has turned another corner though. We're in a new house and that means a new shop. We have an existing shed that is ~8'6" by about 12 feet and I plan to extend it to be about 30 feet long but the same depth because I can extend that dimension.

I have a 14" bandsaw, a small table saw (though planning to upgrade once the shop has power), a jet mini lathe with bed extension, a full size drill press, a 12" compound miter saw, a 13" planer, a 24" by 36" router table, and lots of hand power tools. I do mostly random projects so I don't have a particular need for a lot of open space or even a "finishing" table though I might build one anyway. I have an 8 foot "new fangled workbench" (https://www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/new-fangled-workbench) (https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/thr...485/?post_id=196164&nested_view=1#post-196164) which I might shrink or might not. Many of the features I don't use as I had originally planned. I do have a harbor freight dust collector and will build a separator for that. I'm thinking I'll put that in an "outside" space to try and reduce noise and run solid pipe/hose throughout the shop.

So what else would you put in a shop like this? I'm thinking of a storage rack for lumber and possibly one for ply, and I have some outfeed conveyers that are mobile and adjustable height.

I'm looking for layout suggestions and ideas of what you've added to your shop that has been really helpful (or those that might not get used as much) so I can try to do this once and get it right.

Congrats on the plans to expand your new workshop! If you plan to do any flatwork, then I would suggest a drum sander is an absolute must. Another handy machine to have is an oscillating spindle sander. You didn't mention if you had a bench grinder, which is a must for sharpening lathe tools. And, one of my most used tools is a belt/disc sander. As far as optimum layouts, I would suggest it is best for your equipment to be on wheels inasmuchas possible. In my case, my table saw is not on wheels, but the rest of the heavier pieces are on wheels. This allow you to optimize your workflow depending on project, vs someone's concept of what is best. Good luck, and post a pic or two when you get underway. Chuck

 

[Sprung]

As someone who has had to move his shop a few times, and reconfigure it along the way as well as it has changed in that time, my advise is this:

Don't go out and buy a tool or build this workbench or that jig because someone on the internet tells you it's a great idea or that it works great in their shop.

Get into your new space first. Dream along the way of what it will become, but don't buy anything new yet. Wait until you're in your new shop space. Once you're settled into it, you'll start realizing what you need to function in that specific space - what type of workbench, what type of storage, etc. Yes, you'll have space for more tools. But don't just fill it with whatever tools you think you want.

Wait to buy a tool until you know it's the tool you need.
Wait to design the new workbench until you can see what you need in your new space - and have started to work in it a little bit.
Don't buy or build this or that jig or tool or what'sit until you know it's what you need for a project.

Otherwise you're going to end up wasting money on the wrong tools for you and your shop, that you will eventually sell to buy the right tools. Or you'll have a collection of all kinds of little tools and gadgets and what'sits that your children and grandchildren are cleaning out of your shop one day that you never actually used. Having to move my shop a few times has taught me the value of being strategic in shop planning and tool additions and subtractions.

 

[Mike1950]

One simple start. Build it around dust collection. Should have been first tool any of us purchased but I would bet no one qualifies as first tool purchased DC

 

[frankp]

As someone who has had to move his shop a few times, and reconfigure it along the way as well as it has changed in that time, my advise is this:

Don't go out and buy a tool or build this workbench or that jig because someone on the internet tells you it's a great idea or that it works great in their shop.

Get into your new space first. Dream along the way of what it will become, but don't buy anything new yet. Wait until you're in your new shop space. Once you're settled into it, you'll start realizing what you need to function in that specific space - what type of workbench, what type of storage, etc. Yes, you'll have space for more tools. But don't just fill it with whatever tools you think you want.

Wait to buy a tool until you know it's the tool you need.
Wait to design the new workbench until you can see what you need in your new space - and have started to work in it a little bit.
Don't buy or build this or that jig or tool or what'sit until you know it's what you need for a project.

Otherwise you're going to end up wasting money on the wrong tools for you and your shop, that you will eventually sell to buy the right tools. Or you'll have a collection of all kinds of little tools and gadgets and what'sits that your children and grandchildren are cleaning out of your shop one day that you never actually used. Having to move my shop a few times has taught me the value of being strategic in shop planning and tool additions and subtractions.

I'm not looking to buy new tools, I have the tools I need (other than upgrading my tablesaw). I'm not looking for advice on tools, either. I've been building stuff for nearly 50 years, I know what tools I need and what tools I don't.

I am looking for what has worked (and what hasn't) for other people in their shops, which is what I asked. Have you found things in your shop that didn't work as you planned (a multi-tool storage/work table, for example) or found things that worked really well?

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

One simple start. Build it around dust collection. Should have been first tool any of us purchased but I would bet no one qualifies as first tool purchased DC

Put the dc in a slightly separate area with secondary filter between the area and your workshop. But do allow the air you suck out to return to the work floor. Will save a whole lotta HVAC work

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

Unless you have miles of wall space, the roller stands will be needed . We have a shop at work, I can strongly recommend you have your assembly table set to match as an out feed table for at least one or two of your tools. Ours is an inch and a half higher than our table saw. Really stinks to have to set up a tiny out feed roller when you have a 4 foot table sitting there.

 

[djg]

I'm not looking to buy new tools, I have the tools I need (other than upgrading my tablesaw). I'm not looking for advice on tools, either. I've been building stuff for nearly 50 years, I know what tools I need and what tools I don't.

I am looking for what has worked (and what hasn't) for other people in their shops, which is what I asked. Have you found things in your shop that didn't work as you planned (a multi-tool storage/work table, for example) or found things that worked really well?

Only two things I can think of that might be beneficial to you. Maybe include a 220v circuit in your shop for the new saw. Don't know what your looking for but 220v may be something you want down the road. Especially if you plan to drywall the inside. Plenty of 110v circuits too.

I don't know how big of DC you have, but I have a base model Jet. I'll have to lookup the HP. I had envisioned a setup like I've seen here. Pipes running to all of my tools, including a floor sweep and a dust chute for the lathe. It didn't suck. I ended up removing over 2/3rds of the system and have only two drops (with blast gates). It's passible, but still could be better.

 

[frankp]

Only two things I can think of that might be beneficial to you. Maybe include a 220v circuit in your shop for the new saw. Don't know what your looking for but 220v may be something you want down the road. Especially if you plan to drywall the inside. Plenty of 110v circuits too.

I don't know how big of DC you have, but I have a base model Jet. I'll have to lookup the HP. I had envisioned a setup like I've seen here. Pipes running to all of my tools, including a floor sweep and a dust chute for the lathe. It didn't suck. I ended up removing over 2/3rds of the system and have only two drops (with blast gates). It's passible, but still could be better.

Yeah, the DC presenting a lack of suction is my biggest concern. I have one of the 2 HP cheapo jobs I got at Harbor Freight in 2014 for $160. It has done the trick so far but no fixed pipes or anything, just the single hose stretched to where I needed it. I did see some nice DC pipes with gates etc at the local woodcraft and figured I'd start with that. If it doesn't work, I'll upgrade the DC and someone will get a good deal. :)

My bandsaw uses 220v so I already have plans to have at least 2 220v outlets, specifically for the bandsaw and a tablesaw. My intent is to have a dedicated outlet for each "fixed" tool I already have and then other 110 circuits every 5-8 feet around the shop. I think code calls for at least every 6 feet now anyway.

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

Yeah, the DC presenting a lack of suction is my biggest concern. I did see some nice DC pipes with gates etc at the local woodcraft and figured I'd start with that. If it doesn't work, I'll upgrade the DC and someone will get a good deal. :)

My bandsaw uses 220v so I already have plans to have at least 2 220v outlets, specifically for the bandsaw and a tablesaw. My intent is to have a dedicated outlet for each "fixed" tool I already have and then other 110 circuits every 5-8 feet around the shop. I think code calls for at least every 6 feet now anyway.

Locally 12 foot is code. For residential . The code for shops is, wherever the outlet is needed. I have set up a few household wood shops. Make sure you have enough circuits to operate 3 or 4 things at once.
Dc, lights, lathe, and air compressor. Are things I have seen operating concurrently.
We usually stagger the plugs on a workbench wall between 2 breakers. Large air compressors, we run a dedicated circuit and large dc will get a dedicated circuit as well. And don't forget the important part of any home shop, full size drink fridge is crucial to plan a circuit for....

 

[djg]

Yeah, the DC presenting a lack of suction is my biggest concern. I did see some nice DC pipes with gates etc at the local woodcraft and figured I'd start with that. If it doesn't work, I'll upgrade the DC and someone will get a good deal. :)

My bandsaw uses 220v so I already have plans to have at least 2 220v outlets, specifically for the bandsaw and a tablesaw. My intent is to have a dedicated outlet for each "fixed" tool I already have and then other 110 circuits every 5-8 feet around the shop. I think code calls for at least every 6 feet now anyway.

I made my duct out of those galvanized sections of furnace duct (6") and sealed the seams with a clear caulking. Pop riveted the fittings and blast gates (reducers needed) to that and sealed those seams as well. Just didn't have enough HP to make it all work. If you'd live closer, I'd sell you my extra (lightly used) pipe and blast gates cheap lol.

I stayed away from the metal pipe (seamless) and fittings made for DCs because of the cost. I could have used the light weight PVC (S&D?) pipe a lot of people use but didn't want to have to run a ground wire. The metal works for that.

 

[Nature Man]

When I built my shop I had the electrician put in 3 dedicated 220V lines. My dust collector runs on one of these, and another I use for other larger equipment that is most often running at the same time. Chuck

 

[djg]

When I built my shop I had the electrician put in 3 dedicated 220V lines. My dust collector runs on one of these, and another I use for other larger equipment that is most often running at the same time. Chuck

I did likewise. I ran wire from a 60A breaker into a panel in my basement (shop) that has three 220v breakers. One is dedicated for DC as yours and the other two split between other tools.

 

[Mike1950]

I made my duct out of those galvanized sections of furnace duct (6") and sealed the seams with a clear caulking. Pop riveted the fittings and blast gates (reducers needed) to that and sealed those seams as well. Just didn't have enough HP to make it all work. If you'd live closer, I'd sell you my extra (lightly used) pipe and blast gates cheap lol.

I stayed away from the metal pipe (seamless) and fittings made for DCs because of the cost. I could have used the light weight PVC (S&D?) pipe a lot of people use but didn't want to have to run a ground wire. The metal works for that.

yes the DC pipe is spendy- I found someone who had bought it all but not installed it all. decided wood working was not for him. 3.5 HP- works with a drop for most every tool. It was a pain to assemble- rivet and seal each joint but very much worth it. Cyclone is a must.

 

[Sprung]

I am looking for what has worked (and what hasn't) for other people in their shops, which is what I asked. Have you found things in your shop that didn't work as you planned (a multi-tool storage/work table, for example) or found things that worked really well?

Sorry, I misunderstood a bit of what you were asking for. But at least part of my point still stands: to know what will work best for you in your new space, you'll have to be in your new space first. If there's anything you're thinking of building or adding or changing from your current shop, don't buy it or build it until you're in the new shop space. Each time I've moved shops, I've had ideas of what I would do in the shop - how I would set it up and organize it and what kind of benches I would build or have in it and what storage options I would have. And each time it's ended up very different than what I dreamed it might be. And it's also ended up different than where I started when first setting it up - hence my advice to start working in the new space first before tackling anything, even anything like a new bench - see what it feels like to start working in the space and then figure out what will work best for you and the way you work in your space. Because we all have different spaces, different tools, and different ways that we work.

Definitely plan around dust collection - Mike is right when he tells people not to overlook it. Drops to your tools, with blast gates at each tool, will be nice, if your shop space will allow it. I see there's already been some debate on what to use for piping. I used 4" PVC and haven't had any issues in my shop.

Easy to access machines - larger and benchtop. That doesn't mean that every machine needs to be immediately accessible and ready to use right away. But my experience has been that if it's a stationary or benchtop tool and it takes you more than 5 minutes to get things moved around to get it set up to use (because it's on a mobile cart or flip top cart or other reasons), it's too much of a hassle and you'll get frustrated because you spend too much time moving things around to try and get anything done. This was a HUGE hassle in my previous shop space and was a big factor in how I laid out my current shop space - provided I don't have any messes of my own making in the way, no stationary or benchtop machine takes me more than a few minutes to get ready to use. And the most frequently used ones I try to leave in a state of always ready to use. Some exceptions are made for those seldom used tools. I previously owned a spindle sander that I used about once every 3 or 4 years and because I used it so infrequently, I didn't follow this rule with that tool.

In my shops, as I've tried various layouts, I've always ended up with some sort of center island that always involves the table saw and outfeed - or in my present shop my workbench doubles as the outfeed. It's made sense as the table saw is really the heart of my shop - my most used tool. And the combination of table saw and outfeed or workbench gives a nice space to work at. Even in my previous shop, where my workbench was against a wall, I ended up doing most of my work at my much smaller outfeed table because it was more convenient for me to work in that center location. That center island is like the hub of the shop and the rest of the shop is set up along the outside of the space in whatever way it has ended up working out in each shop to support the workflow of everything in the shop. The main work of things happens at my workbench in that center portion of the shop. In my current shop, that center island is table saw, workbench, jointer, planer, and a toolbox that I use to store table saw blades and accessories and handheld corded power tools. This center island/hub style setup has worked extremely well for me - so much so that when I've tried layouts that have deviated from it, I've always ended up back to it.

Air hose reel, if you don't already have one. I didn't see the need to plumb my shop with air. But the hose reel has been worth every penny. I have an extra hose coiled up for the times when I need more length - like getting out into the driveway to put air in vehicle tires.

Outlets - looks like already touched on. But you can't have enough. Multiple circuits, if possible. Outlets everywhere. Most of those outlet locations are two gang boxes, so each location has a total of four outlets. Most of those are spaced 4 or 6 feet apart. It's so nice being able to find a place to plug something in anywhere in the shop without having to rely on splitters, power strips, or extension cords. If you do the center island, you will need to figure out some sort of power drop - either up from the floor (which would involve building into the floor or a cord across the floor, with something to keep you from tripping over it) or a drop from the ceiling.

 

[frankp]

Drew up a quick plan... thoughts? Dashed line in the middle (and to the right wall) denotes existing shed space. Area for DC and area to the left of the vertical dashed line is all new construction. No power to the area, yet, so none of the electrical is fixed location or anything. Want to keep the area in front of the double door entrance clear because that's also where I process deer during hunting season. Looks like I forgot my grinder, which will likely be setup near the lathe.

 

[djg]

yes the DC pipe is spendy- I found someone who had bought it all but not installed it all. decided wood working was not for him. 3.5 HP- works with a drop for most every tool. It was a pain to assemble- rivet and seal each joint but very much worth it. Cyclone is a must.

3.5 HP? Were's the envy button.

 

[frankp]

Sorry, I misunderstood a bit of what you were asking for. But at least part of my point still stands: to know what will work best for you in your new space, you'll have to be in your new space first. If there's anything you're thinking of building or adding or changing from your current shop, don't buy it or build it until you're in the new shop space. Each time I've moved shops, I've had ideas of what I would do in the shop - how I would set it up and organize it and what kind of benches I would build or have in it and what storage options I would have. And each time it's ended up very different than what I dreamed it might be. And it's also ended up different than where I started when first setting it up - hence my advice to start working in the new space first before tackling anything, even anything like a new bench - see what it feels like to start working in the space and then figure out what will work best for you and the way you work in your space. Because we all have different spaces, different tools, and different ways that we work.

Definitely plan around dust collection - Mike is right when he tells people not to overlook it. Drops to your tools, with blast gates at each tool, will be nice, if your shop space will allow it. I see there's already been some debate on what to use for piping. I used 4" PVC and haven't had any issues in my shop.

Easy to access machines - larger and benchtop. That doesn't mean that every machine needs to be immediately accessible and ready to use right away. But my experience has been that if it's a stationary or benchtop tool and it takes you more than 5 minutes to get things moved around to get it set up to use (because it's on a mobile cart or flip top cart or other reasons), it's too much of a hassle and you'll get frustrated because you spend too much time moving things around to try and get anything done. This was a HUGE hassle in my previous shop space and was a big factor in how I laid out my current shop space - provided I don't have any messes of my own making in the way, no stationary or benchtop machine takes me more than a few minutes to get ready to use. And the most frequently used ones I try to leave in a state of always ready to use. Some exceptions are made for those seldom used tools. I previously owned a spindle sander that I used about once every 3 or 4 years and because I used it so infrequently, I didn't follow this rule with that tool.

In my shops, as I've tried various layouts, I've always ended up with some sort of center island that always involves the table saw and outfeed - or in my present shop my workbench doubles as the outfeed. It's made sense as the table saw is really the heart of my shop - my most used tool. And the combination of table saw and outfeed or workbench gives a nice space to work at. Even in my previous shop, where my workbench was against a wall, I ended up doing most of my work at my much smaller outfeed table because it was more convenient for me to work in that center location. That center island is like the hub of the shop and the rest of the shop is set up along the outside of the space in whatever way it has ended up working out in each shop to support the workflow of everything in the shop. The main work of things happens at my workbench in that center portion of the shop. In my current shop, that center island is table saw, workbench, jointer, planer, and a toolbox that I use to store table saw blades and accessories and handheld corded power tools. This center island/hub style setup has worked extremely well for me - so much so that when I've tried layouts that have deviated from it, I've always ended up back to it.

Air hose reel, if you don't already have one. I didn't see the need to plumb my shop with air. But the hose reel has been worth every penny. I have an extra hose coiled up for the times when I need more length - like getting out into the driveway to put air in vehicle tires.

Outlets - looks like already touched on. But you can't have enough. Multiple circuits, if possible. Outlets everywhere. Most of those outlet locations are two gang boxes, so each location has a total of four outlets. Most of those are spaced 4 or 6 feet apart. It's so nice being able to find a place to plug something in anywhere in the shop without having to rely on splitters, power strips, or extension cords. If you do the center island, you will need to figure out some sort of power drop - either up from the floor (which would involve building into the floor or a cord across the floor, with something to keep you from tripping over it) or a drop from the ceiling.

Fantastic, thank you. Most of what you mentioned I already had in mind but hearing other people's experience, especially with multiple shop setups through the years, is really helpful.

 

[Nature Man]

One other item we haven’t mentioned is lighting, which is really a key item in setting up a shop. It’s been discussed several times over the years in this forum, but deserves a footstomp in your specific shop. I, for one, have large banks of LED lights overhead. On my lathe I have a dedicated light, as well. Guess you almost can’t have too much light! Chuck