- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #21
Blueglass said:
thats a long time to wait :rofl2:
what other finishes are good on oily woods, like cocobolo?
i have some tung oil from liberon, just received the bottle, i didnt even open it.
Tru-oil finish
- Thread starter Molokai
- Start date
thats a long time to wait :rofl2:
what other finishes are good on oily woods, like cocobolo?
i have some tung oil from liberon, just received the bottle, i didnt even open it.
I did some cocobolo pistol grips with truoil and it was a disaster. Looked good at first, but the oil in the wood came up and turned the truoil rancid. Someone told me the best way to finish those oily tropical woods is to buff them with something like the Beall Buffing System. You put 2 coats of sealer and buff away. Gary
Tomislav,
Some years ago, I shifted all my finishing methods to oil finishing. Among all the solutions commercially available here in Europe I tried and further adopted Rustin's Danish Oil (i.e. here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-danish-oil ).
I picked this product for the following reasons:
* the main ingredient is tung oil which, unlike linseed oil, has the tendancy to less darken the wood,
* other ingredients include some resins (like Dammar) which speed the process, etc. while no film is produced on the surface, like we see with different varnishes
* generates a deep semi-gloss finish
Oil finish is one of my preferred methods on bigger projects (furniture, bowls...). (I finish my pens and bottle stoppers with other methods though). If I made knifes undoubtedly I would use an oil finish. Lately I'm trying pure Walnut oil which seemingly, unlike other oil finishes, doesn't yellow with the passing of time.
Finally, while I generally finish my projects with 3-6 coats (especially with the Danish Oil above), one has to know that a pure traditionnal oil finish needs one year (after the first month, the coats are spaced out) to be fully completed. The final project should be totally saturated and no oil or any liquid will ever be absorbed by the wood.
Some years ago, I shifted all my finishing methods to oil finishing. Among all the solutions commercially available here in Europe I tried and further adopted Rustin's Danish Oil (i.e. here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-danish-oil ).
I picked this product for the following reasons:
* the main ingredient is tung oil which, unlike linseed oil, has the tendancy to less darken the wood,
* other ingredients include some resins (like Dammar) which speed the process, etc. while no film is produced on the surface, like we see with different varnishes
* generates a deep semi-gloss finish
Oil finish is one of my preferred methods on bigger projects (furniture, bowls...). (I finish my pens and bottle stoppers with other methods though). If I made knifes undoubtedly I would use an oil finish. Lately I'm trying pure Walnut oil which seemingly, unlike other oil finishes, doesn't yellow with the passing of time.
Finally, while I generally finish my projects with 3-6 coats (especially with the Danish Oil above), one has to know that a pure traditionnal oil finish needs one year (after the first month, the coats are spaced out) to be fully completed. The final project should be totally saturated and no oil or any liquid will ever be absorbed by the wood.
Hey Tomislav,
I've seen you already use Tung oil. Well, as we say here, I just pushed an open door... :oops:
I've seen you already use Tung oil. Well, as we say here, I just pushed an open door... :oops:
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #25
Can you go little more in details. How do you saturate the wood completely?
I use tung oil but its not pure. I just bought 100 % pure tung oil from Liberon and micro crystalline wax.
I use tung oil but its not pure. I just bought 100 % pure tung oil from Liberon and micro crystalline wax.
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If I remember well what I've read some years ago (and practice only once) the principle is one coat every day the first week; one coat every other day the 2d week; one coat every 3 days for the 3d and 4th week; one coat every week from the 2d to 4th month; one coat every 15 days for a couple of months, and finally one coat every month to complete.
But every oil is different. The same for different wood species which may react differently. I'll open a thread on a French forum about walnut oil where a colleague, specializing in finishing techniques, agreed to provide some assistance. As far as I understood he promotes the traditional way of finishing (that is the loooong way...) as far as oil finish is concerned. Of course I will transfer every meaningful info here.
But every oil is different. The same for different wood species which may react differently. I'll open a thread on a French forum about walnut oil where a colleague, specializing in finishing techniques, agreed to provide some assistance. As far as I understood he promotes the traditional way of finishing (that is the loooong way...) as far as oil finish is concerned. Of course I will transfer every meaningful info here.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #27
So, can i save that tru-oil from throwing it away. Can i add some alcohol or something else to make it work again?
current condition is not drying at all...
current condition is not drying at all...
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Tom, nowhere in my literature can I find reference to using alcohol to thin an oil-based finish. In the UK, I see that they call mineral SPIRITS "white spirits". Any of these solvents will work: turpentine, paint thinner (aka mineral spirits) kerosene, and naphtha. The "hot" solvents such as; lacquer thinner, acetone, and toluene will cut or lift an oil finish, even after it has dried or cured. NYwoodturner's suggestion for removing the problem Tru-Oil using acetone is a good idea. Small quantities of acetone can be found in cosmetics departments...sold as "fingernail polish remover".
The oily wood species, need to have the surface oils cleaned before applying an oil or oil/varnish finish as the oils that are in the wood are non-drying oils and will retard the curing of the finish. Given that these woods are already saturated with their own oil, a buffing wheel charged with tripoli compound will produce a nice shine. Cocobolo will bleed red oil, however, and will discolor the hands if not over-coated.
Hope this helps, my friend
The oily wood species, need to have the surface oils cleaned before applying an oil or oil/varnish finish as the oils that are in the wood are non-drying oils and will retard the curing of the finish. Given that these woods are already saturated with their own oil, a buffing wheel charged with tripoli compound will produce a nice shine. Cocobolo will bleed red oil, however, and will discolor the hands if not over-coated.
Hope this helps, my friend
Tomislav,
not sure your oil has a problem. Some woods don't absorb oil that easy. I had the same problem with some pendants I recently finished with walnut oil. While masur birch and elm absorbed very fast, the same was not true for gaboon ebony, briar burl and (Spanish) olive wood. Also I found out that walnut oil is less siccative than my Danish oil I use often on briar burl and olive wood bottle stoppers before polishing them on the Beall buffing wheels.
Also, normally you have to wipe down the coat of oil after about half an hour before leaving the piece aside for drying.
not sure your oil has a problem. Some woods don't absorb oil that easy. I had the same problem with some pendants I recently finished with walnut oil. While masur birch and elm absorbed very fast, the same was not true for gaboon ebony, briar burl and (Spanish) olive wood. Also I found out that walnut oil is less siccative than my Danish oil I use often on briar burl and olive wood bottle stoppers before polishing them on the Beall buffing wheels.
Also, normally you have to wipe down the coat of oil after about half an hour before leaving the piece aside for drying.
This is a list of oily woods that can cause
glue or finish problems.
Wood
BubingaHigh density, closed pores, and natural oils can cause problems with glue penetration.
BulletwoodHigh density and moderately oily.
CocoboloVery high oil content and high density.
CumaruHigh oil content and high density.
East Indian RosewoodHigh oil content and medium/high density.
EboniesSome oil present, along with very high densities.
EkkiHigh density and moderately oily.
Goncalo AlvesHigh density and natural oils prevent water absorption.
GreenheartHigh density and natural oils.
Honduran RosewoodHigh oil content and high density.
IpeReportedly very difficult to glue in exterior applications, especially for the long term.
KataloxVery high density, along with natural oils.
KingwoodVery high oil content and high density.
Lignum VitaeExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.
Osage OrangeOils present can give gluing problems.
PurpleheartHigh oil content and high density.
RosewoodsTypically very oily and very dense.
Santos MahoganyHigh density and moderately oily.
TeakOils/resins can present challenges in outdoor applications.
VerawoodExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.
glue or finish problems.
Wood
BubingaHigh density, closed pores, and natural oils can cause problems with glue penetration.
BulletwoodHigh density and moderately oily.
CocoboloVery high oil content and high density.
CumaruHigh oil content and high density.
East Indian RosewoodHigh oil content and medium/high density.
EboniesSome oil present, along with very high densities.
EkkiHigh density and moderately oily.
Goncalo AlvesHigh density and natural oils prevent water absorption.
GreenheartHigh density and natural oils.
Honduran RosewoodHigh oil content and high density.
IpeReportedly very difficult to glue in exterior applications, especially for the long term.
KataloxVery high density, along with natural oils.
KingwoodVery high oil content and high density.
Lignum VitaeExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.
Osage OrangeOils present can give gluing problems.
PurpleheartHigh oil content and high density.
RosewoodsTypically very oily and very dense.
Santos MahoganyHigh density and moderately oily.
TeakOils/resins can present challenges in outdoor applications.
VerawoodExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.
Mike - Excellent list. That took some time and effort and for that we thank you. I would also add that all of these woods have varying degrees of success in stabilization (of the ones that I have tried... many just don't need it)
You have to be careful buffing these woods without a finish on them because the buffing compound will get in the grain of these woods and show. The only way to get rid of it is to resand. As beautiful as they are their just hard deal with. You can add desert iron wood to that list too.
I use tung oil successfully on cocobolo... same method as I posted in your stabilization thread, but I do wipe down with acetone before the first dip/coat. Starting with the highly diluted and working through to 100% tung has done the trick for me and I haven't had drying problems. Here are a couple calls finished that way.
http://i1285.Rule #2/albums/a595/HCHpics/Duck%20Calls/IMG_20130707_215649_zps3832cf32.jpg
http://i1285.Rule #2/albums/a595/HCHpics/Duck%20Calls/IMG_20130707_215649_zps3832cf32.jpg
I've been using Waterlox original forever after using Watco Danish oil for many yrs. Waterlox is Tung oil based with polymers etc it finishes real well on the Mesquite Burl I use. It takes 3 coats, rubbing each out with #0000 steel wool, you can run as many as you need. I've always found crows and people like shiny things so I do market my pieces that way. I like the option of being able to do low gloss for the other folks also. It's a pricy product, but the patina after 20 yrs on some pieces is stunning.
Alex, I am a fan of Waterlox also. Typically, I'll use it on top of a lacquer sanding sealer, but it is good protection for just about anything that i make. What do you use it on primarily?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #36
Tried today that tru-oil on a piece of oak dried for 100 years and after 12 hours of drying is still sticking to fingers. Wood absorbed all the tru oil and is still sticky. Next time i use glass marbles in tru-oil bottle! Thanks Gary.
I will order white spirit to try to fix it but i believe its a long shot.
I will order white spirit to try to fix it but i believe its a long shot.
Thinning with the white spirits will help to speed up drying. I'd guess 24 hours drying time would be the point where I would suspect a problem with the material.
Tom, How's your English? This video shows the use of the buffing wheels and compounds. Hope that this helps!
Mike, I'm turning large burls with a lot of inclusions, I use a simple coat of boiled linseed oil to penetrate all the bark inclusions and voids, I find this method stabilizes the bark etc, it also drowns the critters that prevail in those areas. I'll let the pieces sit until I have orders to fill for the gallerys, then do the Waterlox treatment. It's a great product, I've seen some patrons lamps after 25 yrs that look amazing. A lot of people don't take care of their wood, hate dusting or applying true lemon/orange oil, they are "liquid gold" types and Waterlox manages to hold up to the abuse. Regards, Alex
While I dry every coat of truoil in a heat box for 24 hrs., everyone else is complaining about truoil drying too fast. Let me explain.
All the gunstocks I finish with truoil are walnut, which is open grained. While the coat of truoil you put on dries quickly on the surface, the oil that goes into the pores does not. If you finish it too quickly what happens is the pores remain full of uncured oil. Over time, sometimes months, the oil in the pores finally dries and shrinks, pulling in the finish on the surface and all your pores show back up. Been there, done that. Drying every coat in a heat box for 24 hours prevents this. My original post should have specified open grain walnut and other similar wood. Gary
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