I was asked to take some extra pictures the next time I made some of these. They use battery powered tea lights
I start with a squarely milled blank 2 1/4”x2 1/4x4 1/2”. The size isn’t as important as being precise. I then drill a 7/8” hole through all 4 sides 1 1/2” from one end. This is where the precision is important. You want these holes centered or you will not have even spacing for the “windows” when you turn. Any variation really shows.
Having square ends makes alignment in the chuck much easier. The end with the holes is placed near the tailstock and will be the base of the lantern. I drill a hole to match the diameter and height of the tealight, 1 3/8”x3/4”.
Then drill with the 7/8” to the center of the cross holes.
I bring up a cone tail center and turn to my liking, not getting too thin at the top. Getting an even sphere around the windows is important. This is where you can create different looks, especially with the shape of the roof. I also cross drill the top finial before finish turning so I can turn away any blowout.
Then sand, finish the piece. Then take away the tailstock and part off the lantern. Be sure to slow the spindle speed without the tailstock and support the piece while parting off.
The center and windows are oiled by hand after parting off since you can’t friction finish them. I make a copper loop “handle” out of heavy wire and press the tea light in the bottom and it is finished.
I start with a squarely milled blank 2 1/4”x2 1/4x4 1/2”. The size isn’t as important as being precise. I then drill a 7/8” hole through all 4 sides 1 1/2” from one end. This is where the precision is important. You want these holes centered or you will not have even spacing for the “windows” when you turn. Any variation really shows.
Having square ends makes alignment in the chuck much easier. The end with the holes is placed near the tailstock and will be the base of the lantern. I drill a hole to match the diameter and height of the tealight, 1 3/8”x3/4”.
Then drill with the 7/8” to the center of the cross holes.
I bring up a cone tail center and turn to my liking, not getting too thin at the top. Getting an even sphere around the windows is important. This is where you can create different looks, especially with the shape of the roof. I also cross drill the top finial before finish turning so I can turn away any blowout.
Then sand, finish the piece. Then take away the tailstock and part off the lantern. Be sure to slow the spindle speed without the tailstock and support the piece while parting off.
The center and windows are oiled by hand after parting off since you can’t friction finish them. I make a copper loop “handle” out of heavy wire and press the tea light in the bottom and it is finished.
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