Turning tool recommendations?

scootac

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Most of what I'm reading re: BB tools centers around them needing sharpening more often. My grinder is ~18' from my lathe, and I need a break from standing in one spot after awhile. I don't think 'more often' sharpening is a deal killer. As I said, it's not production work, I have no deadlines, it's for enjoyment!
I know sharpening will be a learning process, hopefully I get 'the feel' without too much trouble.
Glynn- regular grinding wheels, no CBN. Let me get over one hurdle at a time. :-)
Sooo many facets, sooo many choices!

Thanks all for the advice.....keep it coming!
 

trc65

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Only other advise is beware paralysis by analysis! Pick up a tool or two and have at it. You can get tips and ideas by watching and reading, but nothing substitutes for time at the lathe. Have fun!
 

Fsyxxx

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I second the cbn wheel for sure. I think a 3:8 bowl gouge is the tool I pick up most often ( with a fingernail grind ). I have both less expensive and more expensive tools and I find the extra money I spend goes a long way in the enjoyment I get turning. It isn’t a big deal to go sharpen more often but most folks don’t. They turn with a tool that isn’t dull but isn’t really sharp anymore. I do it and my sharpening station is less than 3 feet from the lathe. The extra few minutes may not seem like much but stopping to sharpen at certain points during a shaping session can really ruin the flow. Just my .02$.
 

GlynnC

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I second the cbn wheel for sure. I think a 3:8 bowl gouge is the tool I pick up most often ( with a fingernail grind ). I have both less expensive and more expensive tools and I find the extra money I spend goes a long way in the enjoyment I get turning. It isn’t a big deal to go sharpen more often but most folks don’t. They turn with a tool that isn’t dull but isn’t really sharp anymore. I do it and my sharpening station is less than 3 feet from the lathe. The extra few minutes may not seem like much but stopping to sharpen at certain points during a shaping session can really ruin the flow. Just my .02$.
Hi Greg,
I agree with your comments about interrupting the "flow" to sharpen a tool. When everything is going smoothly and the chips are flying it just feels good and it is hard to stop. I find that I have to remember that if it feels like you need to sharpen, you probably waited too long. That's where the better steel will give you a sharp edge a little longer. And a CBN wheel sharpens quicker, with no heat, and requires no dressing, remaining perfectly flat where the tool touches the wheel. I believe the extra expense is worth it to get the maximum benefit from cheap or expensive tools. 👍
 

Fsyxxx

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Hi Greg,
I agree with your comments about interrupting the "flow" to sharpen a tool. When everything is going smoothly and the chips are flying it just feels good and it is hard to stop. I find that I have to remember that if it feels like you need to sharpen, you probably waited too long. That's where the better steel will give you a sharp edge a little longer. And a CBN wheel sharpens quicker, with no heat, and requires no dressing, remaining perfectly flat where the tool touches the wheel. I believe the extra expense is worth it to get the maximum benefit from cheap or expensive tools. 👍
Absolutely, my reason for getting a cbn was once I purchased more expensive tools I didn’t want to take off so much steel every time I sharpen. I can hit the cbn and just barely take anything off. It was hurting my feelings and pocketbook to see all that lovely Thompson steel turn to dust on a regular sharpening wheel!
 

GlynnC

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Absolutely, my reason for getting a cbn was once I purchased more expensive tools I didn’t want to take off so much steel every time I sharpen. I can hit the cbn and just barely take anything off. It was hurting my feelings and pocketbook to see all that lovely Thompson steel turn to dust on a regular sharpening wheel!
I agree. The CBN wheel is so quick to restore an edge. I usually just make two or three passes (very light pressure) and the tool has a new sharp edge.
I remember reading an impressive comment once about how much wood is passing under the tool during turning. I may be remembering the math wrong, but for ease of math, let's consider that a 9 inch diameter bowl is turning 1000 rpm, that's 9,000 inches a minute, or 750 feet per minute (9000/12). If you turn for 10 minutes, that equals almost 1.5 miles (750 x 10 mins = 7,500 feet / 5280 (feet in a mile) = 1.4 miles). No wonder the tool gets dull. :ponder:
 

scootac

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If diameter is 9".....circumference would be 28.27".
X 1000rpm.
Yeah.....cutting a lot of wood!!!
 

Gdurfey

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never thought to do the math. Hmmmmmm. You can say your lathe needs the 10,000 mile tune up and really mean it!!!
 

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Some good advice already provided, two cents more… If you’re serious about and committed to the art of woodturning, don’t waste time and money with inferior bargain brands and products. Buy the tools and equipment you will use for ever up front and learn how to properly use them. Take your lead from professional turners, there’s a reason why they use the good stuff. Consider investing in your education by taking a beginner emersion course to get started and more courses as your skills develop. You will learn proper techniques and will quickly build the essential skills needed to safely and efficiently enjoy your shop time… you’ll learn more in a week at pick one, say Ellsworth’s shop, than you will in years of piecemeal efforts on your own.
 

scootac

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Some good advice already provided, two cents more… If you’re serious about and committed to the art of woodturning, don’t waste time and money with inferior bargain brands and products. Buy the tools and equipment you will use for ever up front and learn how to properly use them. Take your lead from professional turners, there’s a reason why they use the good stuff. Consider investing in your education by taking a beginner emersion course to get started and more courses as your skills develop. You will learn proper techniques and will quickly build the essential skills needed to safely and efficiently enjoy your shop time… you’ll learn more in a week at pick one, say Ellsworth’s shop, than you will in years of piecemeal efforts on your own.
Thanks!
Do you have specific brands in mind on the higher end side? Seems once you go to the high end.....prices are fairly close and in a narrow range. Understandable as they have to be competitive. Imagine it comes down to grade of steel......and personal preference at that point.
If you care to suggest a brand or 2 that you think are more worthy of my $$$....I'm all ears.
Thanks!
 

trc65

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If you are going high end, Thompson Tools and D-Way are the top of my list. I own tools from both. Different steels and flute shapes are the differences between the brands.
 

Jonkou

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George,
You’re correct about personal preference. Used the British standard Sorby and Crown M-2 tools for many years and was happy with them. Years ago bought a D-Way M-42 bowl gouge to try and never looked back. Like the parabolic flute shape similar to Sorby and the short flute length for rigidity. Have replaced most of my front line tools with D-Way because of the manufacturing quality and superior tool steel. The British standard companies and Carter&Son have since introduced M-42 lines as well. The powdered metal Thompson (CPM10) and Glaser (CPM10/15) are quality tools too. V and U shape flutes are also available if that’s your preference.

Tool selection is like choosing the vehicle you drive, sports car to mini van, they’ll all get you there but what kind of ride do you want. Clubs are the easiest way to try a variety and decide what works best for you. Bottom line is strongly encourage you to avoid the inferior hecho in China brands.
 

scootac

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George,
You’re correct about personal preference. Used the British standard Sorby and Crown M-2 tools for many years and was happy with them. Years ago bought a D-Way M-42 bowl gouge to try and never looked back. Like the parabolic flute shape similar to Sorby and the short flute length for rigidity. Have replaced most of my front line tools with D-Way because of the manufacturing quality and superior tool steel. The British standard companies and Carter&Son have since introduced M-42 lines as well. The powdered metal Thompson (CPM10) and Glaser (CPM10/15) are quality tools too. V and U shape flutes are also available if that’s your preference.

Tool selection is like choosing the vehicle you drive, sports car to mini van, they’ll all get you there but what kind of ride do you want. Clubs are the easiest way to try a variety and decide what works best for you. Bottom line is strongly encourage you to avoid the inferior hecho in China brands.
Thank you John!
Great info.....that sometimes is hard to get. Too many times people jump all over another's choice if it isn't their choice.....making others gun shy of expressing their opinions.
Applies to much more than turning tools!
 
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