what kind of steel

[Karda]

Hi I am not a knife maker but I want to make a marking knife. I was planning on using a small file, does anybody have any idea what kind of steel files are made of thanks Mike

 

[woodtickgreg]

I'm not sure of the actual grade but they are high carbon so that they take a good heat treat. Maybe Google it?

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

@RJBud1 or @Bear Custom Builds make knives and @vegas urban lumber has a handle on steel types...

 

[woodtickgreg]

I found this with a Google search and found it to be very informative.

Blacksmithing Projects: What Steel Are Files Made Of? | Make it From Metal

One of the fun parts of blacksmithing is that you can take a chunk of whatever and turn it into... whatever. Thing is, certain projects…

makeitfrommetal.com

 

[Karda]

thanks that is a great, it answers my questions

 

[RJBud1]

Hi I am not a knife maker but I want to make a marking knife. I was planning on using a small file, does anybody have any idea what kind of steel files are made of thanks Mike

Old Nicholson files, specifically those produced in the USA, were of a very high quality. They were made of C105 W1 high carbon steel. Most cheaper files you'll find at Home Depot...Ace, Lowes etc - unhardenable case hardened material, which will not hold up as a knife.

My most recent blades have been from a DELTA file, and a Nicholson USA file. The Delta file acts and sparks like 1080 steel, whereas the Nicholson is likely some of the hardest steel I've ever come across.

I have heard from older machinists that the Nicholson USA files were anywhere from 1% carbon to as high as 1.20% carbon, that is great news for a newer knifemaker.

You can use peanut oil, used or new, to quench your blade. But once you get into knifemaking I do suggest getting a gallon of Parks 50 for hardening your basic carbon steels...(1060, 1075, 1080, 1095, W-1 & W-2).

Once you have your blade shaped up, holes drilled, bevel ground, I'd heat it up with a propane torch until you have a cherry red color. Dip it in your peanut oil for around 10 seconds and swirl it around.

To see if it hardened well, take any file and scrape your newly made blade. If the file "chases" or skates your knife you have done well. If not, atleast you have some learning experience.

The next step is to temper it, chances are if everything had been done right your blade will be low 60's hrc. (Parks 50 will get the job done better with a stronger result and higher hardness). Since you are making a *marking knife*, I would try and keep your blade as hard as possible. For boxcutters and marking knives, I do one 40 minute temper at 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

The short temper cycle will mean your blade will still be very hard, and a proper edge will last very long. Just don't use it as a prybar

For any other knife of basic carbon steel I generally will temper the blade 400 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours, one hour at a time.

 

[Karda]

thanks for the instruction, I am new to this. A knife about the size of a marking knife is all I plan to do. I got to many hobbies i can't keep up with as it is thanks Mike

 

[JonathanH]

If you just want to make a knife from a file, or other piece of knife steel, you are going down a rabbit hole with no end. You can't stop with just one, and there is a learning curve so you will likely make a few before you are satisfied with one.

If you just want to put custom handles on a marking knife from prepared steel your chances of success right off the bat go up tremendously. You may still be going down a deep rabbit hole but the learning curve is shorter.

Here is one option of many. Hock makes blades for hand planes and their knife steel is top notch. There are other brand choices available that are good ones also. This store is local to me and family owned.

Hock Marking Knife Blade 1/16" x 1/4" x 7" Double Bevel

Marking Knife Blank 1/16" x 1/4" x 7 These right- or left-hand, spear point marking knife blades (the bevels are on one side only) are perfect for scribing fine lines against a straight edge. The small one make a great dove-tail chisel. No handles. High carbon steel.

woodworldtx.com

 

[JonathanH]

Here is another quality steel option from Narex.

Narex Unhandled Dual Bevel Marking Knife Kit with Finger Indents Stainless Steel Blade0.060" Thick Blade

A marking knife is an invaluable tool that should be in the toolbox of every woodworker. A good marking knife can produce crisp and well-defined marks on wood essential when laying out precision joinery or transferring measurements. Scribe lines left by a marking knife can also locate and guide...

taytools.com

 

[Nature Man]

Check out metals from Online Metals. Chuck

Online Metals | Buy Metal Online | No Minimums or Cut Fees!

Buy metal online - Free MTRS & No minimums or Cut Fees - Same day order processing when placed by 1pm! Shop Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Copper, Brass, and more!

www.onlinemetals.com

 

[Karda]

thanks for the links

 

[RJBud1]

If you just want to make a knife from a file, or other piece of knife steel, you are going down a rabbit hole with no end. You can't stop with just one, and there is a learning curve so you will likely make a few before you are satisfied with one.

Hock Marking Knife Blade 1/16" x 1/4" x 7" Double Bevel

Marking Knife Blank 1/16" x 1/4" x 7 These right- or left-hand, spear point marking knife blades (the bevels are on one side only) are perfect for scribing fine lines against a straight edge. The small one make a great dove-tail chisel. No handles. High carbon steel.

woodworldtx.com

I concur 100% with this. The 1st knife I ever made was horrendous. The second knife was decent. My 50th knife was decent as well as my 175th. By my 196th knife, I was finally satisfied with my work. Now I am on my 197th, 198th, and 199th and they are coming out very good. The mark of a good knifemaker is a scrap bin full of finished knives that you don't think are good enough. Of the 196 knives I have completed, only around 15 or so I have sold, gifted or kept to myself. The rest are in a scrapyard.