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Got a large flat rate envelope with your name on it. Will fill it up later today and drop it in the mail!
What's Growing in the Garden
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i think they call that preservesGot a large flat rate envelope with your name on it. Will fill it up later today and drop it in the mail!
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@Eric Rorabaugh trying some new things with the hot peppers. Normally hot smoke them, but decided to try cold smoking with this batch and then dehydrate.
Also started a quart fermenting. One small onion coarsely chopped, three smashed garlic cloves, and a chopped mix of all the hot peppers. Added 4 cold smoked jalapeno to the ferment. Don't know how much flavor it might add, but thought I'd give it a try. Used a 2.5% salt concentration for the batch.
Here's the mix of varieties that are drying (after washing) that I used.
Also started a quart fermenting. One small onion coarsely chopped, three smashed garlic cloves, and a chopped mix of all the hot peppers. Added 4 cold smoked jalapeno to the ferment. Don't know how much flavor it might add, but thought I'd give it a try. Used a 2.5% salt concentration for the batch.
Here's the mix of varieties that are drying (after washing) that I used.
I started fermenting a small batch the other day. Wanted to start a small one first to see how it goes. Used the jalapenos, fish peppers, habaneros, onion and apple. Will try it. May blend in some peaches or mangoes afterwards. Wish me luck. Also dehydrated some of each of the peppers. Waiting on my spice grinder to get here. This could be another dand rabbit hole to go down with this hot sauce deal.
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My BIL dehydrates almost all his peppers that are used for hot sauce. He usually only makes a pint or so at a time and just rehydrates the peppers with a little water and other ingredients. He doesn't can anything, just keeps the in the fridge. If he happens upon a new recipe, doesn't have to go looking for peppers mid- winter, just pulls some of his dehydrated from a shelf.
The 3.5 -4 gallon spackle buckets work great for pepper plants. You only need about 9 inches of root mass in the bucket. The plants hold well as house plants until about Christmas. If you use a grow light, they will flower again, just brush the blossoms and you could get a second winter harvest season from the plant. if it makes it to spring, put it back in the garden. I've had a few make it 14 months in the past.
Here in Tucson, I've had some Chile Tepins growing since 1994. I've quit picking them as there is no way I'll eat any of them. The plants drop their peppers and it allows them the start a new plant. In '94 I had one plant, now they are starting to take over my yard.
I have a friend who has a couple Jalepenos that are over 8 years old, maybe more. I had one that made it to 6 years, but I took a trip several years ago, and the person watching my house forgot to water it. They don't die annually here in the desert. ............ Nubs
Thanks, I may give it a try. I have a large plastic pot I could use. I'm not a fan of real hot peppers like the rest of so, so I grow the Sweet Heat variety. Plant is only a foot high. I have trouble growing anything taller. My Shishito peppers are small also. I grew them based on the activity here about them, but I don't see the fascination with them. Am I missing something?
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If you don't like the heat, you have several options. I know there are low or no heat varieties of jalapeno and habanero and probably others. Most of what I grow are for their flavor, not for the heat, the heat is just a side effect that doesn't bother me.
The heatless habanero is called 'Habanada'. No or low heat Jalapeno varieties include: 'Felicity', 'Coolapeno', 'Tricked you', 'Fooled You', 'TAM' (1/3 heat of normal), 'TAM II' (improved variety of TAM).
Tomato Growers Supply carries many of these varieties, and will send free catalog. They are a subsidiary of Jung seeds, and I've ordered from them many times.
The heatless habanero is called 'Habanada'. No or low heat Jalapeno varieties include: 'Felicity', 'Coolapeno', 'Tricked you', 'Fooled You', 'TAM' (1/3 heat of normal), 'TAM II' (improved variety of TAM).
Tomato Growers Supply carries many of these varieties, and will send free catalog. They are a subsidiary of Jung seeds, and I've ordered from them many times.
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When dehydrating peppers, do you cut the stem off first or after dry? I've got a yard sale dehydrator that I've been wanting to use. I want to try and grind the Sweet Heat peppers to flakes/powder.
I cut the stems off before I put them in the dehydrator. That's just me. Tim may do his differently.
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Yep, cut stems first, they will dry much quicker.
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Quart jar with this years run of Atomic chipotle. Going to send my nephew a pint, but still leaves me with an awful lot of it. Thinking of cutting it with other spices to make a Cajun seasoning.
I think the cold smoked peppers had less (smoke) flavor, but tough to tell, so I mixed them all together. That's half the fun!
I think the cold smoked peppers had less (smoke) flavor, but tough to tell, so I mixed them all together. That's half the fun!
Before we got all of this rain, we had several weeks of dry weather. I managed to complete a few project for the improvement of next year's garden.
My garden is on a slope so I have it terraced. At the top is a 50' long raised bed (weeds) that is fronted by my domestic blackberries. At the lower end is a second "retaining wall" that had failed over the years. I widened an area and replaced a section of the retention wall.
This created more planting space for a row of climbing plants (snow peas?). I was thinking about putting in a couple of red raspberries, but according to Stark Bros., they shouldn't be grown within 50-75' of blackberries. Is that true? Couldn't find any reference to that in anything I've read so far. Maybe I missed something.
My soil is a clay base with some topsoil. This Spring I had planted my second set of asparagus in trenches only to have them get flooded out by the heavy Spring rains we had.
I'm replanting again next Spring and I wanted to avoid the 'moats' filling up with water again. I dug out the lower sides of my trenches and installed a drain pipe perpendicular to the trenches, running down hill.
I've got it back filled now, and once it dries out a little, I'll weed the rows. The buckets pictured, are bottomless, and will be suck in the empty positions within the row. Then I can back fill (topsoil/compost) around the buckets and existing plants. Come planting time, I hand dig out the bottom of the buckets a little, plant the roots and cover. As they grow, I'll backfill as prescribed and then finally remove the buckets.
My garden is on a slope so I have it terraced. At the top is a 50' long raised bed (weeds) that is fronted by my domestic blackberries. At the lower end is a second "retaining wall" that had failed over the years. I widened an area and replaced a section of the retention wall.
This created more planting space for a row of climbing plants (snow peas?). I was thinking about putting in a couple of red raspberries, but according to Stark Bros., they shouldn't be grown within 50-75' of blackberries. Is that true? Couldn't find any reference to that in anything I've read so far. Maybe I missed something.
My soil is a clay base with some topsoil. This Spring I had planted my second set of asparagus in trenches only to have them get flooded out by the heavy Spring rains we had.
I'm replanting again next Spring and I wanted to avoid the 'moats' filling up with water again. I dug out the lower sides of my trenches and installed a drain pipe perpendicular to the trenches, running down hill.
I've got it back filled now, and once it dries out a little, I'll weed the rows. The buckets pictured, are bottomless, and will be suck in the empty positions within the row. Then I can back fill (topsoil/compost) around the buckets and existing plants. Come planting time, I hand dig out the bottom of the buckets a little, plant the roots and cover. As they grow, I'll backfill as prescribed and then finally remove the buckets.
The only reason not to grow them close is the fact they can spread diseases (probably mainly fungal) between one another. Just growing them close does not necessarily mean more disease. Black raspberries tended to be more susceptible to fungus diseases particularly anthracnose fungus. But if neither have the disease or don't get it, it cannot spread to one another.
Another reason could be the raspberries tend to spread much more aggressively by the roots and could possibly crowd out the the blackberries - while in some areas it is vice versa, but judicious pruning and other means (root barriers) could alleviate that. I've known of people who've grown them side by side with no problems.
Another reason could be the raspberries tend to spread much more aggressively by the roots and could possibly crowd out the the blackberries - while in some areas it is vice versa, but judicious pruning and other means (root barriers) could alleviate that. I've known of people who've grown them side by side with no problems.
Thanks. I believe the reason they gave was fungal diseases. I'll have to look them up a little to see what to look for, if it's fatal to the plants and any treatment options. I just measured the distance between the blackberries and where I want to plant and it's only 35'. Thought it was more. I still might give them a try and move them later if I run into problems.
I didn't mean for you to do all my leg work for me. I can look it up. You can't grow BLACK and RED raspberries next to each other?
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No problem, I've been going through info as I'm moving B raspberries closer, so I've been looking through publications
The issue is red rasp can be infected with many diseases that do little damage to them, but can be significant if black rasp are infected with the same diseases.
The recommendation of spacing is related to spores traveling through the air (anthracnose), and aphids (virus vectors).
Anthracnose can be significant on Black, but can be reduced/controlled with several cultural practices including dormant pruning, keeping weeds controlled and not over fertilizing. Preventative fungicides are available (chlorothalonil, captan, lime/sulfur and others), and curative fungicides are available although these are very expensive.
The other issue is aphids transmitting virus from reds to blacks. Many viruses infect red raspberries without causing symptoms, but when they infect black rasp can cause damage. Aphids moving between the two types will spread the viruses. Insecticides are available to control aphids, but I typically ignore them and don't worry too much. I probably control a lot of aphids on the reds spraying for Japanese beetles in June/July.
Keep in mind that no situation is ideal for spacing raspberries/blackberries. Cultural controls can have a significant effect on reducing disease, the biggest being keeping them pruned and weeded to increase airflow through the canes. A spray or two at the right time early in the season is effective as young green canes are particularly susceptible to infection.
Think about the disease triangle. Three sides needed for infection. First, causal organism must be present. Not going to do much about that, the diseases are all over the place.
Second is a susceptible host. Anthracnose primarily infects young tender green canes, protect them with a fungicide and no disease. Also may reduce infection rates by altering conditions when canes are susceptible.
Third is conditions favorable to disease infection and growth. Pruning to allow more air flow will reduce infection as canes may dry out before infection can occur.
Only really touched the surface on Plant Pathology 101, but it gives you an idea. Lots of links, spraying guides and cultural guides for rasp/black berries on Google
I've got to move my Black raspberries, and don't have a convenient place as far from the reds as they currently are. I plan to focus a little more on keeping them pruned/weeded better and maybe a dormant fungicide spray and living with what I get.
If one followed rigorously the recommendations for spacing and crop rotation, none of us would ever have a garden, fruit, etc. All the recommendations are best practices, but in the real world you do the best you can with the space/resources available.
The issue is red rasp can be infected with many diseases that do little damage to them, but can be significant if black rasp are infected with the same diseases.
The recommendation of spacing is related to spores traveling through the air (anthracnose), and aphids (virus vectors).
Anthracnose can be significant on Black, but can be reduced/controlled with several cultural practices including dormant pruning, keeping weeds controlled and not over fertilizing. Preventative fungicides are available (chlorothalonil, captan, lime/sulfur and others), and curative fungicides are available although these are very expensive.
The other issue is aphids transmitting virus from reds to blacks. Many viruses infect red raspberries without causing symptoms, but when they infect black rasp can cause damage. Aphids moving between the two types will spread the viruses. Insecticides are available to control aphids, but I typically ignore them and don't worry too much. I probably control a lot of aphids on the reds spraying for Japanese beetles in June/July.
Keep in mind that no situation is ideal for spacing raspberries/blackberries. Cultural controls can have a significant effect on reducing disease, the biggest being keeping them pruned and weeded to increase airflow through the canes. A spray or two at the right time early in the season is effective as young green canes are particularly susceptible to infection.
Think about the disease triangle. Three sides needed for infection. First, causal organism must be present. Not going to do much about that, the diseases are all over the place.
Second is a susceptible host. Anthracnose primarily infects young tender green canes, protect them with a fungicide and no disease. Also may reduce infection rates by altering conditions when canes are susceptible.
Third is conditions favorable to disease infection and growth. Pruning to allow more air flow will reduce infection as canes may dry out before infection can occur.
Only really touched the surface on Plant Pathology 101, but it gives you an idea. Lots of links, spraying guides and cultural guides for rasp/black berries on Google
I've got to move my Black raspberries, and don't have a convenient place as far from the reds as they currently are. I plan to focus a little more on keeping them pruned/weeded better and maybe a dormant fungicide spray and living with what I get.
If one followed rigorously the recommendations for spacing and crop rotation, none of us would ever have a garden, fruit, etc. All the recommendations are best practices, but in the real world you do the best you can with the space/resources available.
I'm guessing everyone is getting tired of hearing about my green beans. Since the last frost/freeze? I've picked 3-4 gallons. I just picked 3 qts today and will have another picking in 4-5 days weather permitting. I canned over 40 qts and froze another 2-3 gallons. Thanks to everyone who helped me resurrect this old 1940s? canner and understand the process. I would have either had to buy another freezer or waste a lot of produce.
My question (always questions) is about saving seed for next year. I looked it up and saw that the beans must be brown and fully dried before picking. But what if cold weather really sets in before that happens? The beans I missed picking throughout the year, I have designated for seeds, but are still green. I'm a little confused about when to pick.
Thanks again.
My question (always questions) is about saving seed for next year. I looked it up and saw that the beans must be brown and fully dried before picking. But what if cold weather really sets in before that happens? The beans I missed picking throughout the year, I have designated for seeds, but are still green. I'm a little confused about when to pick.
Thanks again.