- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #2,841
Wow, I'd love to be able to have any of those! Unfortunately, I can't afford the conservatory I'd need to keep any of them alive. It's cool to see some of the tropical fruit plants you have.
What's Growing in the Garden
- Thread starter trc65
- Start date
Didn't realize it got cool enough to set fruit for apples there. Or is the mountain apple a different fruit from our apples here in the contiguous states?
Completely different fruit. Looks like a shiny red pear.. And kinda reminds one of a pear when cut.
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NAFEX (North American Fruit Explorers) is one such group. When they srarted, that is what many of the members did, go out and about, finding lost varieties, old varieties, natural hybrids and the like. They would rescue them and evaluate and propagate and distribute. They did apples as well as other heirloom groups, but NAFEX members did all kinds if fruit and nuts. I joined because I was interested in figs, pecans, mulberries,, currants and gooseberries.
Open Google on your phone. click the camera icon next to the magnifying glass and the microphone. This will bring up your camera in google. You may have to give it permission to use. Fill the screen with the plant. Hover for a second or take a picture. Google will attempt to identify it. Not always correct but pretty dang good
The App PlantNet is good too also offering a wide variety of pictures from correctly identified plants to compare with. Very useful.
Nice, Now that you mention it I do remember two distinctly different types of coconut trees in Samoa. One was tall and the other shorter, more bushy. My Samoan buddies taught us how to make and use a loop of rope placed around our feet to help climb the tall trees. But what I really miss is breadfruit. Part of the hiring arrangement when we moved there was both spouses had to work (Dad taught wood shop, Mom taught office management/secretarial skills), so my Mom hired a Samoan lady to help around the house, iron cloths, be there when we got home from school, etc. I think it was mostly just a way to provide someone a job who otherwise probably wouldn't have one. But Sisi (that was her name) would roast a breadfruit in the oven and give me some with butter when I got home from school.
This is my Dad posing with one of the chiefs from an outer village. But behind them you can see one of the trees Kalai is talking about. Much shorter than the tall version and easier to harvest coconuts. The chief's hands and legs are swollen from elephantiasis.
This is my Dad posing with one of the chiefs from an outer village. But behind them you can see one of the trees Kalai is talking about. Much shorter than the tall version and easier to harvest coconuts. The chief's hands and legs are swollen from elephantiasis.
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Finally getting around to pruning my two peach trees. I believe they are 3 yo and about 12 feet tall. I have 3 branch points off of the main trunk and 2 to 3 branches off of those higher up.
I've sniped off all the new growth pointing to the center as the video I previously cited suggests.
How high would you go in deleting this inwardly pointing new growth? I left the higher ones alone in the picture above.
One of my main branches rubbed against the fence material I had around it causing a wound. Anything this late that I can do for it?
The video also cuts some of the height back. I do want a solid productive tree, but I don't want it looking like those cut back trees you see in orchards. I'd rather have more of a natural looking tree.
Photos aren't great: I have to cut down the dead standing peach tree to the left. Do dead standing fruit trees make good smoking wood or if green fruitwood preferred?
I've sniped off all the new growth pointing to the center as the video I previously cited suggests.
How high would you go in deleting this inwardly pointing new growth? I left the higher ones alone in the picture above.
One of my main branches rubbed against the fence material I had around it causing a wound. Anything this late that I can do for it?
The video also cuts some of the height back. I do want a solid productive tree, but I don't want it looking like those cut back trees you see in orchards. I'd rather have more of a natural looking tree.
Photos aren't great: I have to cut down the dead standing peach tree to the left. Do dead standing fruit trees make good smoking wood or if green fruitwood preferred?
Tree #2:'
This branch seems a little heavy.
The first photo is from the inside of the tree. The second one up from the bottom is fairly strong but dose point a little toward the empty center of the tree. I kind of hate to take it out. The second photo is from the same branch from the outside of the tree.
That branch in question is now on the left. One or two branches need to come off this branch point?
I had trunk guards on the trees that were suppose to expand as the tree grew. One did and one didn't. It dug a little into the tree leaving a scar. Can anything be done at this point?
Do deer pose a threat to new trees this time of year? Should I rush to get the cages back up?
Rain coming next week; I'll spray the fungicide after that. Too late to spray?
This branch seems a little heavy.
The first photo is from the inside of the tree. The second one up from the bottom is fairly strong but dose point a little toward the empty center of the tree. I kind of hate to take it out. The second photo is from the same branch from the outside of the tree.
That branch in question is now on the left. One or two branches need to come off this branch point?
I had trunk guards on the trees that were suppose to expand as the tree grew. One did and one didn't. It dug a little into the tree leaving a scar. Can anything be done at this point?
Do deer pose a threat to new trees this time of year? Should I rush to get the cages back up?
Rain coming next week; I'll spray the fungicide after that. Too late to spray?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #2,850
A couple comments. The damage from fence and trunk guard, just leave alone, should heal on their own.
Its always tough to give advise from pictures on pruning, but I think you got a good looking structure, don't sweat the small stuff.
The fact that you pruned is more important than having a perfect structure or making all the "right" cuts.
If you are in doubt on on more cuts to make, I usually stop and let it go for a year and reevaluate. In an orchard I'm sure they would prune more, but I'm like you, I want a good looking tree in addition to a productive tree.
As to the fungicide, I'd recommend spraying before the rains rather than after. The sprays prevent infection, not treat an infection, so are more effective before rain events.
On protecting from deer. I've got older trees, so I don't worry about it. This time of year the deer come through and chew off the end of branches/new growth that they can reach. If you've got smaller branches and or trees, I'd keep them fenced until things start greening up and deer have other food.
Its always tough to give advise from pictures on pruning, but I think you got a good looking structure, don't sweat the small stuff.
The fact that you pruned is more important than having a perfect structure or making all the "right" cuts.
If you are in doubt on on more cuts to make, I usually stop and let it go for a year and reevaluate. In an orchard I'm sure they would prune more, but I'm like you, I want a good looking tree in addition to a productive tree.
As to the fungicide, I'd recommend spraying before the rains rather than after. The sprays prevent infection, not treat an infection, so are more effective before rain events.
On protecting from deer. I've got older trees, so I don't worry about it. This time of year the deer come through and chew off the end of branches/new growth that they can reach. If you've got smaller branches and or trees, I'd keep them fenced until things start greening up and deer have other food.
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As Mike said they are different, here are a few pictures of the fruit. Aloha.
Kalai
That looks like what we called a rose apple in Panama. Totally different flavor than apple.
I love rose apple, such a delicate rose flavor, we have that here in Hawaii too but not so much anymore since the state released a fungus that kills the rose apple, it is considered invasive in Hawaii.
Kalai
Yes, I know it's hard to give advice from photos. Though something might just jump out. I think I'll leave it alone for now.
As for the fungicide, I'm a little confused. Why is it so important to treat right after pruning? Are the cut ends prone to fungus? It's sprinkling now but suppose to be dry tomorrow. I got to run to RK and pick up a sprayer then I'll spray. Got to check how rain fast the Daconil is.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #2,855
The peach is more susceptible to infection than many other types of trees, particularly in cooler weather when some types of pathogens are more active.
Nearly all fungicides fall in to two broad categories, protectants and curative. Of those available to homeowners, almost all are preventative, meaning the primarily prevent infection rather than cure an existing infection. Any period of high moisture (with correct temperatures) can be a high infection period. If you are planning a fungicide application and you know rain is coming, it's better to apply it before the rain if you can.
As to rain fastness of Daconil, it is pretty high. The chemical is chlorothalonil and is one of the better ones for standing up to rainfall once dry.
Nearly all fungicides fall in to two broad categories, protectants and curative. Of those available to homeowners, almost all are preventative, meaning the primarily prevent infection rather than cure an existing infection. Any period of high moisture (with correct temperatures) can be a high infection period. If you are planning a fungicide application and you know rain is coming, it's better to apply it before the rain if you can.
As to rain fastness of Daconil, it is pretty high. The chemical is chlorothalonil and is one of the better ones for standing up to rainfall once dry.
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- #2,856
Just finished the Montmorency cherry. Not as an orchard would prune, but I prune not just for production, but also a nice looking tree. The center is wide open, and I'm slowly training it outward instead of up. In a good year it will produce 10 gallons plus of cherries, so I'm happy.
Six foot ladder for perspective. I can reach all branches standing on the ladder so it's around 13-14 ft at the tallest.
Six foot ladder for perspective. I can reach all branches standing on the ladder so it's around 13-14 ft at the tallest.
Think Tim missed one thing, many of these fungi (funguses) are already on the tree, you don't see them. You prune, slicing though these fungi, and directly introduce them to the inner sanctum with your cut. That is why some folks have the rubbing alcohol on ready and treat tools between every plant, and some between each cut. His preventative treatment recommendation is good. Birds, look nice, however they carry more issues than the wind. Beech leaf blight is coming....
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- #2,858
Good point Mark. As an old pathology professor once said, fungal spores are everywhere, all the time, and are just waiting for the right conditions to infect.
And, since Mark brought it up, thought I'd mention what I do for sanitation during pruning. I used to do all pruning on my fruit trees in late winter. That's still recommended timing for apples, pears and sour cherries. When I'm pruning these, I don't sanitize between cuts, but I do sanitize between trees. My biggest concern is fireblight. The apples I have, once established, are only moderately susceptible to fire blight. The pears however are highly susceptible, so I am more careful and sanitize more often when pruning them.
I have had a terrible time with peaches. They always get gummosis and don't last long. Now, gummosis isn't a disease, but rather a symptom. What I'm guessing is my young trees had some borers which introduced fungi and then in most cases eventually killed the trees. When I prune the couple of peaches I have left, I sanitize between each cut to prevent further spread in the trees. I've also switched to pruning the peaches only in the summer, after harvest. Cuts heal much quicker then, and the trees are less susceptible to infection.
The same is true for my apricot and sweet cherry. I only prune those in summer.
And, since Mark brought it up, thought I'd mention what I do for sanitation during pruning. I used to do all pruning on my fruit trees in late winter. That's still recommended timing for apples, pears and sour cherries. When I'm pruning these, I don't sanitize between cuts, but I do sanitize between trees. My biggest concern is fireblight. The apples I have, once established, are only moderately susceptible to fire blight. The pears however are highly susceptible, so I am more careful and sanitize more often when pruning them.
I have had a terrible time with peaches. They always get gummosis and don't last long. Now, gummosis isn't a disease, but rather a symptom. What I'm guessing is my young trees had some borers which introduced fungi and then in most cases eventually killed the trees. When I prune the couple of peaches I have left, I sanitize between each cut to prevent further spread in the trees. I've also switched to pruning the peaches only in the summer, after harvest. Cuts heal much quicker then, and the trees are less susceptible to infection.
The same is true for my apricot and sweet cherry. I only prune those in summer.
I thought it was harder on a tree to prune it when it wasn't dormant. So I guess I just did it at the wrong time? Each cut? Wow. How do you sterilize them; just dip in IPA? Or do you flame them before the alcohol evaporates?
And if spores are always present, do I need some type of curative spray?
And if spores are always present, do I need some type of curative spray?
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- #2,860
I'm doing the way I am because the trees are already infected, probably from borers when the trees were young. Dormant pruning is still OK, but if you've got trees that are already infected, cuts heal more quickly in warm weather, and so spreading the infection is less likely.
As to sterilizing, I just filled an old soup can with denatured alcohol and dipped the pruner between cuts. Don't know if it actually helps or not as the infection is present in the tree.
I wouldn't worry about a curative spray, there really aren't any that are practical, or affordable for a homeowner.
While fungal spores are always present in the atmosphere, it doesn't mean that pathogenic spores are present at your location nor that conditions were ideal for infection.
Do some reading on pruning for peaches, lots of info out there, and then decide how you want to proceed in the future. I'm not sure there is any one best way, or if the way I'm doing it is correct. Lots of different timings work.
I know other just a few miles away from me have never had any gummosis and always prune in late winter. They've got mature trees, the same variety as I do and not had any problems.