What's Growing in the Garden

sprucegum said:
I will send you some when the new crop is ready. I suppose sending some to seed savers would be a good idea. Several family members grow them so the DNA is safe for now 😅
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I'm not certain how it works but aside from your seed being preserved for the future, joining and adding into the exchange I believe gives you access to other such seed that isn't accessible to others outside the exchange.
 
JerseyHighlander said:
Ok, I need advice from the experts. Have a few tomato plants that were transplants back in spring, they both grew well and healthy one of them nearing 8 foot high before I topped it off. The other slowed down about 6.5 feet and started flowering, getting good bunches of fruit one after the other but about two weeks ago I noticed the earliest bunch had stopped gaining any size, just froze where it was, but otherwise looked normal. Leaves were looking a little haggard but figured it was the heat or it needed water. Now, leaves look like this and I'm stumped.

View attachment 229937
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Another plant three feet away looks fine, though it's barely been flowering. But the leaves are nice dark green and it's healthy. I'm thinking it's a deficiency of some kind but just don't know which way to go.


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A few questions, upper leaves, lower leaves or the whole plant shows the mottling? Do you know the pH of your soil, or at least a general idea of pH in the area. What have you already done for fertility? What was the source of the transplants, did you grow them yourself or get them from somewhere else? If you grew them yourself what was the source of seed? What variety are they, same variety for both plants?
 
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My first thought is magnesium deficiency on your tomatoes. Causes can be low pH, sandy, rocky soils that leach nutrients easily. High potassium fertility can also contribute to magnesium deficiency. Cure is Epsom salts. Most places recommend using 1 tsp Epsom salt per quart of water and foliar feeding. Do a little googling to see some deficiency symptoms and see if that matches what you are seeing.
 
trc65 said:
A few questions, upper leaves, lower leaves or the whole plant shows the mottling? Do you know the pH of your soil, or at least a general idea of pH in the area. What have you already done for fertility? What was the source of the transplants, did you grow them yourself or get them from somewhere else? If you grew them yourself what was the source of seed? What variety are they, same variety for both plants?
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It did start with the lower leaves and the upper leaves have still been mostly green. In general my soil pH is far on the alkaline side but this is a new bed, a small area I have the compost pile on for several years, including several years of Christmas trees, as I know the needles can help adjust the pH to the acid side. But, I haven't tested it, it was put into action with some haste this spring and things were growing very well so I really didn't worry about it.
The transplants came from a farm I know not too far from here, they sell at the local farmer's market. they are two different varieties, and there are two other smaller plants that I started from seed, direct sown, where the seed was saved from heirloom tomato's we used to get from our CSA farm. They are far behind the transplants but still doing ok.

trc65 said:
My first thought is magnesium deficiency on your tomatoes. Causes can be low pH, sandy, rocky soils that leach nutrients easily. High potassium fertility can also contribute to magnesium deficiency. Cure is Epsom salts. Most places recommend using 1 tsp Epsom salt per quart of water and foliar feeding. Do a little googling to see some deficiency symptoms and see if that matches what you are seeing.
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That was my first impression too. I did do a foliar feeding with epsom salt a day or two before I posted this but wasn't sure what I should expect to see in response or how often I should do it. At your suggestion I did some digging last night and it does look like that's what it is, or at least one of the things it is and the info says I shouldn't expect to see the yellowed leaves return to green but it should stop advancing. Still not sure if I should include a bit of the epsom salt in the water or not? I know the sulphate side of it will help with the pH imbalance...

I've been using a fish/kelp emulsion when watering and once in a while some Black Strap Molasses. Nearby winter squash are doing great, broccoli is doing great, except for the suffering the heat wave.

I also put a pepper plant, another transplant from the market, not far from the tomato's and it's been growing great, nearly three feet tall, but has had several flowers over the past several weeks but they disappear and not a pepper in sight. Don't know if it's tied in or nothing to do with the tomato issue.
 
It's not going to hurt to keep feeding with the epsom salt (within reason), so I'd keep foliar feeding every few days for the next week or two. May also just want to mix up a few gallons (1-2 TBS/per gallon) and apply a gallon or so per plant directly to the soil.

The reason I asked about seed source/variety is some diseases can be seed borne, and some varieties have more susceptibility to certain diseases. I was thinking mostly of tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) which can cause symptom of leaf mottling. I'm almost positive though that it is not TMV.

Don't know about the pepper, but don't think it's related to the tomato, unless you start seeing some foliar symptoms. Peppers can be difficult to diagnose problems on unless you see some obvious foliar symptoms. I tend to grow lots of plants and take what I get it, mostly ignoring them. Lots of things can cause blossoms to abort, including high heat. If the plants look healthy, they will eventually produce.
 
Too hot to do anything much outside today, so pulled a cabbage out of the fridge and made some green cabbage kimchi.

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I just fixed one of my mini-cultivators and tilled up my raised bed. Tossed in some new compost and worked it in. Now is it too late to plant Fall spinach?
 
djg said:
I just fixed one of my mini-cultivators and tilled up my raised bed. Tossed in some new compost and worked it in. Now is it too late to plant Fall spinach?
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Not at all. Plant away, and you should be picking some by the middle of September.
 
Today is peach day! Local county Farm Bureau had fundraiser selling peaches from Southern IL and picked up a half bushel. Cheaper than anywhere else and money goes to funding AG in the classroom programs.

Not the quantity that Eric processed, but we'll make good use of them. Making bunches of jam and will can a majority (that don't get eaten fresh).

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Those peaches look really good. Jam? Jelly? Pie filling? Freeze for cobblers? Canned in syrup?

Did 59 quarts and 12 pints of spaghetti sauce today.
 
Started with a batch of jam today. Will probably do 4-5 batches of jam and can a good portion of the rest in light syrup. Whatever is left after canning some will be frozen.

Just went out and checked and the first pears are mature, so will start picking them as well. Will can those that don't get eaten fresh.

It's going to be a busy weekend as picked enough green beans for a canner batch tomorrow, and need to start processing the roma tomatoes.
 
Question for those who can spaghetti/tomato sauce. Last year I canned my first sauce. It's good, but with having to add either citric acid or lemon juice to acidify it, following what is recommended as safe canning practices, it's just too acidic for our tastes. When we've been using it, we've been adding in a touch of sugar and a pinch of baking soda to help counterbalance the acidity, but it's still a bit too much. (We started with lemon juice, but didn't like the lemon flavor in the background, so switched to using citric acid.)

Any thoughts on how to better counteract this acidity and still use safe/recommended canning practices? At this point, I'm giving thought to just making sauce to freeze to avoid the acidity issue, but freezer space is always a concern as well. It's way easier to come up with more shelf space than it is to come up with more space in the freezers.
 
Sprung said:
Question for those who can spaghetti/tomato sauce. Last year I canned my first sauce. It's good, but with having to add either citric acid or lemon juice to acidify it, following what is recommended as safe canning practices, it's just too acidic for our tastes. When we've been using it, we've been adding in a touch of sugar and a pinch of baking soda to help counterbalance the acidity, but it's still a bit too much. (We started with lemon juice, but didn't like the lemon flavor in the background, so switched to using citric acid.)

Any thoughts on how to better counteract this acidity and still use safe/recommended canning practices? At this point, I'm giving thought to just making sauce to freeze to avoid the acidity issue, but freezer space is always a concern as well. It's way easier to come up with more shelf space than it is to come up with more space in the freezers.
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The only thing I've ever tried is adding sugar after the fact, and my results are the same as yours. Saw where several places suggested adding sugar to the jar before processing, but not sure that would be much better.

I don't add acid to my tomato products with pressure canner, but reading things tonight, USDA recommends added acid even when pressure canning. I don't plan to change my practices, but I won't advocate that others do what I do either.
 
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When I've made sauce to freeze in the past, the other veggies I used - mainly onions and carrots - brought enough sweetness that I didn't need to add sugar.

Yeah, this is where I've been in a bit of an internal debate since there are many who still can tomato sauce without adding acid. When I started canning, I made the decision to only use recipes or methods that are considered safe canning practices. Afterall, while there are some things I might be considered an expert on, this definitely isn't something I'm an expert on.

Just out of curiosity, since you're pressure canning tomato products, what pressure and time do you use for pints and quarts of things like tomato sauce and juice?
 
Hmm, just came across this recipe for spaghetti sauce that doesn't call for adding acid. And all their canning recipes are considered safe practice.

nchfp.uga.edu

National Center for Home Food Preservation | National Center for Home Food Preservation

The National Center for Home Food Preservation is your source for home food preservation methods.
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Might have to give this one a try... No mushrooms though - my wife likes them, but I definitely do not.
 
Sprung said:
When I've made sauce to freeze in the past, the other veggies I used - mainly onions and carrots - brought enough sweetness that I didn't need to add sugar.

Yeah, this is where I've been in a bit of an internal debate since there are many who still can tomato sauce without adding acid. When I started canning, I made the decision to only use recipes or methods that are considered safe canning practices. Afterall, while there are some things I might be considered an expert on, this definitely isn't something I'm an expert on.

Just out of curiosity, since you're pressure canning tomato products, what pressure and time do you use for pints and quarts of things like tomato sauce and juice?
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I use 6 psi (dial gauge) for 20 minutes for juice, sauce and stewed quartered tomatoes. Same time for pints and quarts. USDA says that even though they are pressure canned, the resulting temp is the same for BWB and the low pressure, pressure canner, you just save cooking time with the pressure canner.

They say that tomato products without any added acid should be treated as a low acid content vegetable, but have refused to publish a pressure/time table. They say that more research is needed to produce accurate tables. Of course, they have been saying that as far back as the 1980's.

If I was overly concerned about the acidity I'd probably use 11 psi for 25 minutes which is what is recommended for green beans. Beans definitely have low acid content and are more dense than tomatoes or their juice.

Edit: just looked at the recipe you linked and 25 minutes at 11 psi is what the recipe recommends. That psi and time would be good to use for anybody who didn't want to add acid, but was concerned that their tomato juice, plain sauce or stewed tomatoes had low acid content.
 
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trc65 said:
I use 6 psi (dial gauge) for 20 minutes for juice, sauce and stewed quartered tomatoes. Same time for pints and quarts. USDA says that even though they are pressure canned, the resulting temp is the same for BWB and the low pressure, pressure canner, you just save cooking time with the pressure canner.

They say that tomato products without any added acid should be treated as a low acid content vegetable, but have refused to publish a pressure/time table. They say that more research is needed to produce accurate tables. Of course, they have been saying that as far back as the 1980's.

If I was overly concerned about the acidity I'd probably use 11 psi for 25 minutes which is what is recommended for green beans. Beans definitely have low acid content and are more dense than tomatoes or their juice.

Edit: just looked at the recipe you linked and 25 minutes at 11 psi is what the recipe recommends. That psi and time would be good to use for anybody who didn't want to add acid, but was concerned that their tomato juice, plain sauce or stewed tomatoes had low acid content.
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Yeah, I came across that same thing about it needing more research. With how popular canned tomato products are, and how long they've been talking about doing that research, you'd think someone would've done the research or published a pressure/time table by now...

Yeah, I had noticed the 25 minutes at 11PSI. Which, as you point out, is what green beans go in for. So I think I'll give that a try.
 
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