- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #2,201
A fallow year is a great strategy and can work wonders on soil health.We do 2-3 years max, then rotate. Fixed trellis gets peas one year, beans next year or two then climbing cherry tomatoes or one of the quashes. We just mix it up. If we have a bad year garden wide, we don't plant anything the next in that spot. We focus on landscape bed gardening that year. A year of rest does wonders. I might drop some compost, manure or even ash in the idle garden, or not.
It also reminded me a another option, using green manure crops. Many organic growers utilize green manures to help a variety of problems. While some will use a non crop year as Mark described, many will use that year and plant a green manure crop. Basically, plant a crop to produce lots of biomass, then plow it under/ incorporate all of that plant material into the soil. The key to getting all the benefits is plowing/tilling in green tissue. You can of course cut it, let it dry and then till, but the real biological benefits come from the breakdown of the green tissue in the soil.
If a fallow year doesn't fit your needs, you can still use green manures. I'm specifically thinking of things you can do with a permanent legume trellis. Peas and beans are only about 60 day crops (longer with climbers), but if planted in spring, that leaves a lot of time for a second green manure crop - depending of course on the length of the growing season you have.
Get your crop of peas/beans, till the remains under and remove vines, then plant some rapeseed. Let it grow until after it finishes flowering, and then till it in while it is still green, before it sets seed. As a green manure, rapeseed is one of the best crops for reducing soil borne plant pathogens, it may also reduce weed pressure.
There are many other green manure crops that are used, but rapeseed is the best for modifying the soil without a fallow year.