What's Growing in the Garden

2feathers Creative Making said:
Hydrangea fertilizer doesn't work? I really don't know because they flourish here.
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I had some about 10 years ago, and used a heavy application of aluminum sulfate at planting, peat mixed with the soil and yearly sulfur. Buffering capacity of our soils is so high that I just couldn't keep the soil pH low enough. Only real way to grow them around here is in buried plastic barrels with a custom, peat heavy soil mix. Could do it, but blueberries are cheap enough it's not worth it.
 
Blueberry's used to be pretty hit or miss in northern Vermont but our growing season definitely has gotten a little longer. When we moved 6 years ago we brought with us some young blueberry bushes that had not started producing. We didn't have a good spot prepared, but their was a spot along our long driveway where some stumps had been dug out. It was partially shaded and somewhat wet, I tilled it as best I could with my tractor tiller and we used it as a temporary spot for the blueberries as well as some perennials that my wife wanted to bring. The blueberries never got moved and the perennials for the most part are still there. My wife keeps dividing her plants and transplanting them around the property. Blueberries like full sun and well drained soil, they definitely don't get full sun and I think the location is a little on the damp side but at least we don't need to water them. We have had a respectable crop for the past 4 years and this year is looking good, they tend to be at least a week later than others in the area because of the partial shade.
 
We go up and pick wild blueberries and huckleberries in the Cascades and we always look for clearings where the sun can reach the ground. Under the canopy in the shade, if we find any berries at all, they're really sparse and not worth the time it takes. Picking time can vary depending on the snow melt and temps, but usually around mid-Aug to first week in Sep seem to work best. And while not a big problem, best keep an eye out for bears.

We're in the race now!!! First cherry tomato on the bush....

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trc65 said:
First spuds! Not big, but boy will they be tasty tonight.

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Ha! I just finally cut my seed potatoes last week to dry before planting. We had more than 7 inches of rain in may. So far we’re dang close to 4 inches in June! Haven’t put a plant or a seed in the ground yet. Beginning to wonder if I should just start thinking about planting fall crops at this point. Large commercial farms only have potatoes breaking ground 3 days ago. The first plantings all rotted with the rain. Definitely hoping for a late frost.
Oh, and one more batch on the radar before we clear for 3 days.
 
We are dry and have been all spring. Haven't had to water yet, but will probably start tomorrow.

I've been letting the grass grow for a couple of weeks and am now bagging it for mulching the garden. Probably take the rest of the week to get that done.

Here are some of the sweet cherries. Var. Black Gold. They have a ways to go yet as will turn nearly black at maturity.

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My Northland red potatoes are coming along, I planted them in the green house around the first of May then transplanted them to the garden. They have been hilled 3 times, now it's just wait. The main crop of Kennebeck are just starting to poke through. I don't like them to be real early, I feel like they keep better if they mature later in the season. We always hope for peas, new potatoes, and strawberry shortcake for the 4 th of July. I don't think it will happen this year but it will be close.
 
In addition to the raspberries and strawberries that I'm going to deal with this Summer, I want to try starting a patch of dewberries. I did a quick search and it looks like there are three ways to start them. I'll plant some berries in small pots and see it that works.

Next I'll take cuttings of the first year vines and also plant in pots so I can watch them better. Is rooting hormone suggested for this planting method. It looks like it only 0.01% of indole-3-butyric acid. Can't believe in that concentration it would do any good. One site says aspiring or cinnamon could be used. Still haven't found a reliable reference yet.

Lastly, I'm going to actually transplant first year plants into my tilled patch. I want to cover all my basis.
 
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I've never grown dewberries, so have no direct advise. Similar to blackberries, so try that search as well.

All hormones (plant and animal) are effective at extremely low concentrations. Follow the label as to use, using too much can be harmful as well, so don't think think that if a little is good, a lot will be better.

Transplants will be your fastest way to harvest. Prune the cane back to an inch or two when transplanting. This will stimulate new sprouts while giving the roots time to recover/grow.

Easy way to produce quick transplants is to pile soil over trailing stems and keep them watered. When the stems root, cut from the main plant, dig up and transplant.
 
trc65 said:
I've never grown dewberries, so have no direct advise. Similar to blackberries, so try that search as well.

All hormones (plant and animal) are effective at extremely low concentrations. Follow the label as to use, using too much can be harmful as well, so don't think think that if a little is good, a lot will be better.

Transplants will be your fastest way to harvest. Prune the cane back to an inch or two when transplanting. This will stimulate new sprouts while giving the roots time to recover/grow.

Easy way to produce quick transplants is to pile soil over trailing stems and keep them watered. When the stems root, cut from the main plant, dig up and transplant.
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As Tim said, likely the best way at this time is to layer the stems. Usually, the seeds would need to be extracted from the fruit, cleaned, dried, and likely need cold stratification. Plus, it'll probably be at least 3 years until they start to bear. Be sure to pick a thornless variety if possible. So much easier to pick. Green wood cuttings (new growth, not hardened into "wood") are possible now, but you would have to ensure that they are kept in high humidity and preferable with some bottom heat.
 
2feathers Creative Making said:
Hydrangea fertilizer doesn't work? I really don't know because they flourish here.
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That reminds me... to drop pH and force our hydrangeas from pink to blue when I was youg, Dad would send us along the railroad tracks to find loose spikes that had been replaced. They used to just throw them aside I guess, as they were easy to find. We'd bury a few under the hydrangeas and within a season or two they'd turn blue.
 
Wrt my dead Montmorency cherry trees I had planted this Spring, OnLine Orchards finally after a month of no response. They said I should contact Home Depot for my request. Before I do that, I need to pick your brains. If they offer replacement trees, would you have them sent now or in the Fall. I think, but am not sure, they would have a better chance of surviving in the Fall. The problem with that is I would only find out next Spring if they survived, well past the guarantee time period. If free replacement is only a one time thing, then time of planting is not an issue. Fall would probably be better?? But if the new ones fail, then now would be better so I could monitor their progress.

Another option I'm considering is a refund. If I could find (haven't checked yet) another seller, then I'd go with them next Spring.

Any thoughts?
 
whathesaid

I like fall planting for apple or pear, but cherries seem to be finicky to get established and prefer spring so they get going right away.
 
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