What's Growing in the Garden

[DLJeffs]

The deer discussion and what they will and won't eat reminded me of how we disposed of our Christmas tree in January. We had a noble fir. There's a place down the road called Healing Reins. It's a horse stable that uses the horses to help people over come mental or physical challenges. But they put out an ad that said they wanted Christmas trees so I drove ours down there - partly out of curiosity. Turns out, they also keep a pack of goats and the goats loved the Christmas trees. The nice lady took me to the corral and I dropped my tree over the fence and the goats came running. Who knew.

 

[vegas urban lumber]

The deer discussion and what they will and won't eat reminded me of how we disposed of our Christmas tree in January. We had a noble fir. There's a place down the road called Healing Reins. It's a horse stable that uses the horses to help people over come mental or physical challenges. But they put out an ad that said they wanted Christmas trees so I drove ours down there - partly out of curiosity. Turns out, they also keep a pack of goats and the goats loved the Christmas trees. The nice lady took me to the corral and I dropped my tree over the fence and the goats came running. Who knew.

yep they'll eat about anything

 

[trc65]

The entirety of this years apricot harvest. Apricot is an early bloomer, coupled with a late freeze, and this is what you get. Still have lots of freezer jam left from last year though, so we are good.

 

[trc65]

Let the war begin.....

Been seeing Japanese beetles for a couple of weeks, but low populations. Had to run to town yesterday, so didn't look at trees, but they invaded in huge numbers in the last 24-36 hours.

On a chestnut:



They also like fruiting cherry, raspberries, asparagus, rhubarb, crabapple, peaches, ornamental cherry, sassafras, honey crisp apple, roses, grapes, etc. they don't touch the pears and really don't mess with the Winesap apple. Most of the veggies are unaffected, but a little later in the season will go after the green beans.

This is rhubarb:

 

[Nature Man]

Let the war begin.....

Been seeing Japanese beetles for a couple of weeks, but low populations. Had to run to town yesterday, so didn't look at trees, but they invaded in huge numbers in the last 24-36 hours.

On a chestnut:

View attachment 290436

They also like fruiting cherry, raspberries, asparagus, rhubarb, crabapple, peaches, ornamental cherry, sassafras, honey crisp apple, roses, grapes, etc. they don't touch the pears and really don't mess with the Winesap apple. Most of the veggies are unaffected, but a little later in the season will go after the green beans.

This is rhubarb:

View attachment 290437


View attachment 290438

Those critters are just devastating the rhubarb!!!!!

 

[DLJeffs]

We've got a few holes in our rhubarb leaves but I don't see any beetles or insects. Might be slugs at night.

 

[trc65]

Those critters are just devastating the rhubarb!!!!!

Not any more!

 

[djg]

Let the war begin.....

Been seeing Japanese beetles for a couple of weeks, but low populations. Had to run to town yesterday, so didn't look at trees, but they invaded in huge numbers in the last 24-36 hours.

On a chestnut:

View attachment 290436

They also like fruiting cherry, raspberries, asparagus, rhubarb, crabapple, peaches, ornamental cherry, sassafras, honey crisp apple, roses, grapes, etc. they don't touch the pears and really don't mess with the Winesap apple. Most of the veggies are unaffected, but a little later in the season will go after the green beans.

This is rhubarb:

View attachment 290437


View attachment 290438

A neighbor informed me that they like asparagus. So far they have left my alone. They are all over the wild grape vives and the apple tree I'm in the process of cutting down. Guess I'll spray them just to keep them from flying around my face.

Is Carbaryl a contact spray or can you pre-spray it on growth to keep them away?

 

[djg]

Not meaning to beat a dead horse, and dispute you of course, but my Kennebecs look a little more than wilted. Some brown leaves as well as stalks laying over.


Ground beneath is darker brown, but I think I'll water them this morning. Can't hurt.

And the garlic is browning up also.



I knocked a couple stalks over when weeding (will space further apart next year), but some fell over by themselves. I'll prop them up with soil and then water them also.

 

[trc65]

Carbaryl has residual activity for up to around 10 days depending on the pest and of course not getting washed off.

If you are going after Jap Beetles, I've been using bifenthrin which works very well. I will switch to something else for the next time I spray to prevent resistance.

As to the potatoes, they do look rough. Water them and see what they look like after this heat wave ends. However, don't dig them until the vines are completely dead and brown. Even small amounts of green vines will continue to bulk the tubers. If they continue to die back, the yield will probably be low, but you will have something underneath.

 

[trc65]

If you want, I can probably help you diagnose what is going on with the Kennebec through some pictures.

If you can, take some close up pics of leaves and stems that show any yellowing, dead spots, lesions or discolored areas.

If you want to pull one plant to see what's underneath, also take pictures of tubers and underground stems.

Also, what fertilizer and rate did you use? Amount per square feet?

List anything else you've sprayed or applied.

My garlic is going down fast too. I'll be digging a variety of two before the end of the week.

 

[trc65]

Dug the first variety of garlic. I think this is Carpathian. Not great size, but good quality. These were planted late, emerged early, froze off at least once, and died early from the heat.

 

[djg]

If you want, I can probably help you diagnose what is going on with the Kennebec through some pictures.

If you can, take some close up pics of leaves and stems that show any yellowing, dead spots, lesions or discolored areas.

If you want to pull one plant to see what's underneath, also take pictures of tubers and underground stems.

Also, what fertilizer and rate did you use? Amount per square feet?

List anything else you've sprayed or applied.

My garlic is going down fast too. I'll be digging a variety of two before the end of the week.

To be honest I don't remember what rate of 12-12-12 I pre-plant incorporated into the amended bed. I didn't spray them with anything. I watered again today and I did uncover a decent potato.


I don't know what you're looking for in a picture, but here's one anyway.

I found your 2022 reply about potato fertilizer, as well as for garlic fertilizer. I'll follow them closer next year and just let this year's crops run their course.

When you talk about xx oz of 12-12-12, is that weight or volume. I do have a scale it weight.

Thanks

 

[burlyfigured]

Not the best picture of a volunteer hollyhock, but I tried anyway lol.

 

[trc65]

To be honest I don't remember what rate of 12-12-12 I pre-plant incorporated into the amended bed. I didn't spray them with anything. I watered again today and I did uncover a decent potato.
View attachment 290520View attachment 290521

I don't know what you're looking for in a picture, but here's one anyway.

I found your 2022 reply about potato fertilizer, as well as for garlic fertilizer. I'll follow them closer next year and just let this year's crops run their course.

When you talk about xx oz of 12-12-12, is that weight or volume. I do have a scale it weight.

Thanks

Weight and volume for the fertilizer are very close, and I don't weigh anything anymore, just use a volumetric measure.

The weights I've given in the past are for a 20 foot row, by 3 ft wide, so for 60 sq ft.

Rates should vary according to the variety of potato. For Norland, Superior and other early season varieties I use 150#N/acre which equates to 25 oz of 12-12-12 ( or 13-13-13) per 20 ft row. For potatoes like Kennebec, Yukon Gold, Pontiac and long season potatoes the rate should increase to 180#N/acre or ~30 oz of fertilizer per row.

It's hard to tell from your pictures, but you may have nitrogen deficiency, and the curled up dried leaves may have leafhopper damage. Not a lot to do, but applying some nitrogen by watering it in (Miracle grow type fertilizer) can sometimes help improve yield.

There may be some verticillium or rhizoctonia infection, but there isn't anything you can do for those. Both are soil borne fungi and short of fumigating the soil, the best thing you can do is make sure you have plenty of nitrogen.

I could go on and on about potato, but the best thing you can do for them is to apply enough nitrogen. If you are short of N, all kinds of problems will develop.

 

[djg]

Weight and volume for the fertilizer are very close, and I don't weigh anything anymore, just use a volumetric measure.

The weights I've given in the past are for a 20 foot row, by 3 ft wide, so for 60 sq ft.

Rates should vary according to the variety of potato. For Norland, Superior and other early season varieties I use 150#N/acre which equates to 25 oz of 12-12-12 ( or 13-13-13) per 20 ft row. For potatoes like Kennebec, Yukon Gold, Pontiac and long season potatoes the rate should increase to 180#N/acre or ~30 oz of fertilizer per row.

It's hard to tell from your pictures, but you may have nitrogen deficiency, and the curled up dried leaves may have leafhopper damage. Not a lot to do, but applying some nitrogen by watering it in (Miracle grow type fertilizer) can sometimes help improve yield.

There may be some verticillium or rhizoctonia infection, but there isn't anything you can do for those. Both are soil borne fungi and short of fumigating the soil, the best thing you can do is make sure you have plenty of nitrogen.

I could go on and on about potato, but the best thing you can do for them is to apply enough nitrogen. If you are short of N, all kinds of problems will develop.

Thanks, I didn't mean for you to go so much in depth. I didn't want to trouble you that much. I do appreciate it though.

If I find a cheap source of Urea (46-0-0) the rate for Kennebecs would be for the same 20 ft row = 30 oz*12/46 = 7.8 oz or approximately 1/2 lb?

Rural King sells a 50# bag for $45. Don't know if I'd ever use that much. searching around for other sources.

A guy on another forum makes a concoction from human urine (Urea) which he puts on his garden. I would too, but if my Brother ever found out, he would never eat any of my produce lol.

 

[trc65]

Thanks, I didn't mean for you to go so much in depth. I didn't want to trouble you that much. I do appreciate it though.

If I find a cheap source of Urea (46-0-0) the rate for Kennebecs would be for the same 20 ft row = 30 oz*12/46 = 7.8 oz or approximately 1/2 lb?

Rural King sells a 50# bag for $45. Don't know if I'd ever use that much. searching around for other sources.

A guy on another forum makes a concoction from human urine (Urea) which he puts on his garden. I would too, but if my Brother ever found out, he would never eat any of my produce lol.

Yes, your calc is correct. However, keep in mind that potatoes also like lots of potassium, so it's good to use a balanced fertilizer.

 

[2feathers Creative Making]

Thanks, I didn't mean for you to go so much in depth. I didn't want to trouble you that much. I do appreciate it though.

If I find a cheap source of Urea (46-0-0) the rate for Kennebecs would be for the same 20 ft row = 30 oz*12/46 = 7.8 oz or approximately 1/2 lb?

Rural King sells a 50# bag for $45. Don't know if I'd ever use that much. searching around for other sources.

A guy on another forum makes a concoction from human urine (Urea) which he puts on his garden. I would too, but if my Brother ever found out, he would never eat any of my produce lol.

Def is urea. Don't know that it's cheaper...

 

[DLJeffs]

"A guy on another forum makes a concoction from human urine (Urea) which he puts on his garden. I would too, but if my Brother ever found out, he would never eat any of my produce lol."

In Indonesia and Thailand and a few other places I went to while I was still working, they use paddies with flood irrigation. And often there would be a rickety wooden boardwalk built out over one or more of the paddies. At the end of the boardwalk there was a hole left in the walkway. And this hole was surrounded by a wooden privacy wall - sometimes fully enclosed, usually not. And you guessed it, that's where they would go to deposit their cheap, home made fertilizer. That's why it's risky to eat fruits and vegetables that you don't peel before eating in places like that.

 

[trc65]

Def is urea. Don't know that it's cheaper...

I did some looking into that with high fertilizer prices. It is urea, and people are using it as fertilizer. However, it is not manufactured/formulated as a fertilizer and there is potential for contaminants that you might not want on your plants, or possibly consume.