He's been traveling!
42" Chainsaw mill Build
- Thread starter Clay3063
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- #42
After a very late start this week and a slow start this morning I have made some progress. Before I could do anything on the mill however I had to pick black-eyed peas out of the "Big Garden" up at mom and dad's house. And a few more tomatoes. Then I came back and got started.
It took a while drilling these holes. I was stepping my way up to 1/2 and the drill I started out using is a 3/8 chuck. No problem if you got drill bits to fit. And some of which I do. But then I didn't and I found out that the wife had seen my 1/2 dewalt drill in the storage unit and decided it was in the way and put it in a tote somewhere and now can't remember which one. Of course she is out of town with the oldest child helping them pack to move and was no help in finding the "put up" drill. So I made do after reminding her that storing tools that are frequently used isn't a good idea. SMH. Women. Can't.... well never mind. I can't complain. She's better than most. And feeds me regular so there's that.
Anyway. I welded the 8 tooth chain sprocket onto the end of the drive shaft. (I can't believe how close I got it to true after only eye-balling it in place and then holding it with a magnetic corner clamp. It's almost perfect!) Then after much ado, I finally got all of the holes drilled for the pillow blocks and installed them and then the drive shaft. I will wait until later to cut the shaft to length. Next up is to install the bar and it's various assorted attachment points, etc.
It took a while drilling these holes. I was stepping my way up to 1/2 and the drill I started out using is a 3/8 chuck. No problem if you got drill bits to fit. And some of which I do. But then I didn't and I found out that the wife had seen my 1/2 dewalt drill in the storage unit and decided it was in the way and put it in a tote somewhere and now can't remember which one. Of course she is out of town with the oldest child helping them pack to move and was no help in finding the "put up" drill. So I made do after reminding her that storing tools that are frequently used isn't a good idea. SMH. Women. Can't.... well never mind. I can't complain. She's better than most. And feeds me regular so there's that.
Anyway. I welded the 8 tooth chain sprocket onto the end of the drive shaft. (I can't believe how close I got it to true after only eye-balling it in place and then holding it with a magnetic corner clamp. It's almost perfect!) Then after much ado, I finally got all of the holes drilled for the pillow blocks and installed them and then the drive shaft. I will wait until later to cut the shaft to length. Next up is to install the bar and it's various assorted attachment points, etc.
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Having a hard time getting pictures to upload. Gonna try again.
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Trying one more time with pics
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- #45
Came in at lunch to eat and post the first pics of the day. Went back out for a couple hours determined to get the bar mounted before it got too hot. And I got it just in time. LOL. It's hotter'n blue blazes outside right now. I think I am done for the day. But at least I got the bar mounted.
Next step will be to build a bar support for the opposite side. I am going to make it adjustable until I know it is cutting square. Then I may tack weld it solid. We'll see. The far end bar support (nose support) will be 1 1/4" square tubing that will slide within a 1 1/2" square tubing. It will have clamps for the bar similar to those used on the Alaskan style mills. After all is said and done I should have a maximum cut capacity of 38 1/2 inch wide and around 42 inches high. We'll see once I have it mounted on the track. This is a 42" bar. As such I am contemplating using an oiling system on each end. The guy I am copying from uses an oiling system on the nose sprocket only but his bar is only 36" long. Again, we'll see more as I progress.
The hard part is done now. Everything else should be just a matter of mounting the various parts. I bought enough chain to makeup 6 ripping chains. And the bar came with a cross cut chain that I will probably grind to a 10-15 degree bevel and use it as a ripping chain as well. Anyway, here it is for the day. I'm done. Time to fill up the Hillbilly Hot tub and go take a soak. Might even have to open a bottle of sangria to go with it. On ice of course.
Here's the final pics of the day
Next step will be to build a bar support for the opposite side. I am going to make it adjustable until I know it is cutting square. Then I may tack weld it solid. We'll see. The far end bar support (nose support) will be 1 1/4" square tubing that will slide within a 1 1/2" square tubing. It will have clamps for the bar similar to those used on the Alaskan style mills. After all is said and done I should have a maximum cut capacity of 38 1/2 inch wide and around 42 inches high. We'll see once I have it mounted on the track. This is a 42" bar. As such I am contemplating using an oiling system on each end. The guy I am copying from uses an oiling system on the nose sprocket only but his bar is only 36" long. Again, we'll see more as I progress.
The hard part is done now. Everything else should be just a matter of mounting the various parts. I bought enough chain to makeup 6 ripping chains. And the bar came with a cross cut chain that I will probably grind to a 10-15 degree bevel and use it as a ripping chain as well. Anyway, here it is for the day. I'm done. Time to fill up the Hillbilly Hot tub and go take a soak. Might even have to open a bottle of sangria to go with it. On ice of course.
Here's the final pics of the day
Awesome!
Looking good 
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- #48
Had a rough night last night. Up at about 1:30 and didn't get back to sleep until almost 3. Needless to say I slept in a little late. Got up about 9 and ate my liquid breakfast (peanut butter banana smoothie) and headed out to the shop. I had cut all the parts for the bar nose support before quitting for the day yesterday. All I needed was to drill holes for bolts, weld a few things together and then attach it to the frame. I did that this morning before stopping for lunch break.
The plan this afternoon is to finish the engine mount and attach the belt tension springs and mechanisms. Then start on the track. The only thing I lack as far as parts is the engine and leveling jacks for the track system. The engine is being worked over by the guy who is donating it to the build. In return he gets to mill his wood on the machine when we get it finished. Sent pictures of the build yesterday to my brother in law (sister's husband) and he informed me that he wished I'd hurry up and get it done as he has a big mesquite he wants milled. "Dude, I've got 50 plus logs ahead of you but if you got cash I am pretty sure I can bump you to the head of the list". LOL.
The plan this afternoon is to finish the engine mount and attach the belt tension springs and mechanisms. Then start on the track. The only thing I lack as far as parts is the engine and leveling jacks for the track system. The engine is being worked over by the guy who is donating it to the build. In return he gets to mill his wood on the machine when we get it finished. Sent pictures of the build yesterday to my brother in law (sister's husband) and he informed me that he wished I'd hurry up and get it done as he has a big mesquite he wants milled. "Dude, I've got 50 plus logs ahead of you but if you got cash I am pretty sure I can bump you to the head of the list". LOL.
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Can't wait to see the power unit that you are using to drive this bad boy. 
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- #50
Can't wait to see the power unit that you are using to drive this bad boy.
The plan Danny is to put a v-twin Briggs on it. I can't remember for sure but I think it's either an 18 or 22 hp. The one I've been designing this thing after uses a 12 hp and cuts pretty quick. I figure 18-22 hp should do even better. Again, we'll see.
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- #51
Got the Engine Mounting plate and tensioning springs on. I need an engine!!! LOL. But the engine guy is in Tennessee at the moment. Guess it's going to be next week. We'll see. The engine mount slides very easily across the engine carriage frame. And the engine carriage frame slides fairly well up and down until the last few inches in the upper travel. That's fine as well. I will be adding bracing both vertically and horizontally in the upper carriage frame so the engine carriage is going to be limited to only within 9" of the top. That gives 39" of total height cutting capacity.
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One thing I know for sure I am going to be changing sometime in the near future is the lift system. That winch is a novel idea and actually works ok. But there is a certain amount of leveling difference that you have to pay attention to when changing the height or you'll get an uneven cut. I am going to be purchasing some ACME screw rod and nuts and sprockets and chains to raise the thing evenly across the width of the carriage sometime in the near future. For now however I am going to let it be and just use it once I get it finished.
Getting excited
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- #54
Me and you both!!!
woodtickgreg
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This is an awesome build. The only thing I might have done different would have been not welding the drive sprocket on. I still have that plastic if you want to try some for the carriage/head guides.
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Yes Greg. I almost didn't weld the sprocket on. Hard to do that and get it centered and square. Had I not been able to get it as close as I did I wouldn't have welded it. But my metal lathe is buried deep in the back of the barn under a ton of other stuff and since I really don't have any place to put it and keep it semi out of the weather I just did it this way. One of the projects we hope to do with the mill is to build a two new shops. One a metal shop and the other a wood shop. Of course the wife needs a better house then this travel trailer to live in so that is first.
Had I had access to my lathe I would have turned the drive shaft down to fit the sprocket. But alas, it is what it is.
As far as the plastic you mention, I am not sure how I could incorporate it into this build. I thought about it after you mentioned it and I can't visualize how to make it work since I had already built the engine carriage. Ideas? How much are you asking for it?
woodtickgreg
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Oh I understand the whole process of I need to do this before I can do that, I juggle that every day!! What I was thinking with the plastic was pads that would slide along the columns. It would involve making new guides to screw or bolt the plastic to, but it would eliminate the binding. I have found that projects like this kind of evolve, what we think will work we find out sometimes doesn't.
Then we make design changes as we go. I know the engine carriage is already built, but if it continues to hang up and bind cut the guides off and redesign them. I was thinking of supporting the column or post on 4 sides with plastic guides. It could even be 2 upper guides and 2 lower guides, that would still support it on all 4 sides. You could maybe even slot the mounts so there could be some adjustment to them to take up slack. The mounts could be made of angle iron with 2 bolts to mount each one. Just an idea if what you have causes you trouble. The plastic I have can be cut and machined just like wood. Some machinist even use it for tryouts.
Then we make design changes as we go. I know the engine carriage is already built, but if it continues to hang up and bind cut the guides off and redesign them. I was thinking of supporting the column or post on 4 sides with plastic guides. It could even be 2 upper guides and 2 lower guides, that would still support it on all 4 sides. You could maybe even slot the mounts so there could be some adjustment to them to take up slack. The mounts could be made of angle iron with 2 bolts to mount each one. Just an idea if what you have causes you trouble. The plastic I have can be cut and machined just like wood. Some machinist even use it for tryouts.
woodtickgreg
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As a thought, what I see in the pics of the motor carriage is that it is supported on one side upper and lower, basicly 4 points, and only 2 points on the other side. That could be why it is binding, it's not equal. If you do decide to re do the guides I would cut off the square sleeves and start over. Just a thought.
I think what you have done here is great! Not criticizing you, just my thoughts is all.
Edit: plus everything will change once the weight of the motor is mounted.
I think what you have done here is great! Not criticizing you, just my thoughts is all.
Edit: plus everything will change once the weight of the motor is mounted.
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Plus everything is subject to change once you add torque from the motor and torque from the chain running on the bar.
How are you going to lock all of this down so wood grain/weight of the slab/whatever doesn't cause it to wander while sawing Clay?
How are you going to lock all of this down so wood grain/weight of the slab/whatever doesn't cause it to wander while sawing Clay?
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- #60
Rocky I am in the process of thinking through and mentally engineering a couple of locking dogs for the engine carriage and then I'll build stops and dogs for the track that the logs sit on.