Blade Tracking

Kevin

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Been a lot of bandsaw questions lately. Now I'm having trouble. I put a new blade on my saw and although never had trouble before, something has changed because I can't get it to track right. So i put the old one back on just to see, and it won't track either.

Rockwell 28-3X0 same as a Rockwell-Delta 28-340 anyone have one? I have watched all the videos on YT and done exactly like the manual says but I cannot get it right.
 

woodtickgreg

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Are the wheels parallel with each other? In other words if you remove the table and place a straight edge across the wheels from one to the other are they in plane?
 

Kevin

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Yeah you mean coplanar. I've heard both ways that they should be and that they can't be. That's the next thing I'm gonna do. I took the table and guides off while tracking, I'll grab a straight edge and see . . . . .
 

Kevin

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you can't put a straight edge against all four edges of both wheel because the frame won't allow it. So I'll need to make a straight edge with a cut-out. In the meantime I eyed it as close as possible and measured out and it appears to not even be close.
 

ButchC

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Hmmm. A few other things to check if you haven't already: Ensure that the weld is perfectly flat on the blade. Make sure that there's no bits of anything on the tires and that the tires don't have a wear groove in them (from leaving the blade tensioned when not in use). Check to see that the thrust bearing and other guides aren't touching the blade prior to beginning adjustments. Other than that, it sounds like your wheels may be out of alignment. Sometimes they get bound up, and will pop/move on their own when you remove the blade and the tension. Other than that, I dunno.

Butch
 

Kevin

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Good points Butch. These are brand new tires and a brand new blade - I get my blades from Louis Iturra. Sure he can make a bad weld but not likely. I will inspect the weld anyway it is better to be sure . . . .
 

Mike1950

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I have as discussed close to the same saw. I cannot help- never had much problem. Did you just put new tires you got on. Did you use wrong knob to tension with- I ask cause I have done that.
 

woodtickgreg

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Kevin said:
Yeah you mean coplanar. I've heard both ways that they should be and that they can't be. That's the next thing I'm gonna do. I took the table and guides off while tracking, I'll grab a straight edge and see . . . . .
Yup, coplanar, that's what I meant, but you knew what I was talking about. :biggrin:
It's a good starting point, then it can be fine tuned after that. :good2:
 

Kevin

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Well what I think is part of it Mike is that the saw has not ever been 100% on since I bought it. Close but not perfect. I have never had to do a complete start-from-scracth tune up so now that I finally need to learn how, I am scratching my head. I have twisted everything by now though lol - trying to get it like it was but I obviously need to do a major tune up to it.
 

Mike1950

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Mine has a tension knob on bottom of saw top and has the coplanar adj. on the side. I bet you have that side one out of whack. I have a 7' level that is magnet on one side that I stick to table top side and check such things. Probably could do the same with straight edge and clamp. Hope it helps.
 

Kevin

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Nope like I said I have to make a straight edge with a notch because of my frame design - doing it now. Well typing now but about to finish . . .
 

Kevin

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Yes but not tonight. :sarcastic:
 

Kevin

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It's been running great for 2 days. I stopped trying to center the back of the gullets on the centerline of the tires, because for these tires that's not how you do it so said the Delta tech. My tires are not crowned enough to have to do that. So once I stopped doing that it returned to normal. I had rewatched that bandsaw tutorial set up again recently when someone posted and realized I had never tried centering the back of the gullets on the centerline. For those that own a saw like mine - don't do that! :dash2::dash2::dash2: Leave good enough alone.

Now that I got it running like a new one except better than most of the new ones you can buy today, I cannibalized the fence and half the rails off a table saw I never use anymore. I was even able to take the sticky rule off and re=attach it to zero perfectly to my blade. This fence is da bomb. Beats the hell out of the makeshift clamp style I was using. This one is quick to adjust, alaways dead nuts accurate, and always immediately parrallel. This is one of those projects that once you finish you ask "Why didn't I do this 2 years ago?!"

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw5_zpseaced716.jpg

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw3_zps9f59439a.jpg

See this small aluminum deflector that goes in the dust chute? Wanna guess how much it costs?

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw1_zps69b3b352.jpg

So what do you think, $10? :no dice. more please:

So you think maybe $20? :no dice. more please:

C'mon, think OUTRAGEOUS. So now how much you think? $50? :no dice. more please:

No, $99 before shipping and tax. That's not a misprint I checked several sources ereplacementparts etc. All have it listed with the same part number and all list it for $99.

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw4_zps0e69b003.jpg

The HDPE one works just fine. Cost me 10 minutes of time and about 7 cents of material. :pleasantry:

This thing is cutting so perfectly that last night I was walking around grabbing pieces of wood and just resawing for fun. I've never had everything on this saw set up like exactly like I wanted until now. Why didn't I do this 2 years ago!!!

Anyone want to scab an old rail and fence system off a an old table saw this is the way to go. No measuring at all the fence rule is dead on. See you later I think I see a piece of 4/4 wood lying in the corner that needs to be two 1/2" book matches. :sarcastic:
 

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Do you get any blade drift? Can you adjust the fence with the drift? My old small band saw was a piece of crap and had very little blade tension so I never noticed the blade drift . My new saw however i get blade drift and have to clamp a board to the fence and then shim one end to the drift, if I don't do that the fence is worthless, the wood wants to walk away from the fence
 

Kevin

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With the carter guides and new tires I haven't had any drift problems at all. If I ever do - and I probably will eventually, the fence is the easiest to adjust that I have had on any table saw - I can almost adjust it on the fly. Takes only a few seconds. There's not much downside to this setup so far.
 

woodtickgreg

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Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up, :good: nothing like a well tuned tool. :good2: I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post. :cool:
 

jimmyjames

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Kevin said:
With the carter guides and new tires I haven't had any drift problems at all. If I ever do - and I probably will eventually, the fence is the easiest to adjust that I have had on any table saw - I can almost adjust it on the fly. Takes only a few seconds. There's not much downside to this setup so far.

Which carter guides did you get? I have been looking at them for about 2 weeks now, the only kit they have for my saw I have to order an upgrade kit for it to make it handle an 1 1/4" blade, I'm guessing its just 4 more bearings, the kits around $250 and another $50 for the upgrade.

I've been looking to upgrade my fence as well, was thinking about milling a big chunk of 3x3 aluminum I have into a a fence with t-slots and threaded holes so I can add fence extensions etc for different sawing but I may keep an eye on craigslist for an old junk table saw with a good fence on it
 
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