Blade Tracking

[jimmyjames]

Also on setting where the band tracks on the tire, I've always set the blade to the center of the tire, maybe I'm doing it wrong, I'm not sure if my tires have enough crown to set the gullet edge at the center of the tire without flattening the set of the teeth

 

[Kevin]

Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up, nothing like a well tuned tool. I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post.

As much as you know about tools, you still might get Louis Iturra's catalog. He's a true bandsaw guru but his forte is 14" saws. His catalog is the bible for 14" saws. Let me know if you want his phone number - you may already know him.

 

[Kevin]

Which carter guides did you get? ...

I don't remember the model number it's been too long since I bought them. I think they are for the Delta "C" model? I could look it up but it won't help you since I doubt your saw and mine are the same. You must have a beast of a saw f it accepts a 1 1/4" blade. Mine acepts a 1" but Louis said for the difference in the money it wasn't worth it because the 3/4 blade I use for resawing performs just as well. What kind of saw do you have?

Also on setting where the band tracks on the tire, I've always set the blade to the center of the tire, maybe I'm doing it wrong, I'm not sure if my tires have enough crown to set the gullet edge at the center of the tire without flattening the set of the teeth

It depends on the degree of angle of the crown. But I am far from an expert on tires. I run Firestone Transforce AT on my trucks and that's about all I know about tires. :i_dunno:

 

[jimmyjames]

I can actually put an 1 1/2" blade on it but the price difference between 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 isn't worth double the cost to me. The saw is the old style jet jwbs-20 the new model only takes an 1 1/4

 

[Mike1950]

Your saw has a lot of the same pieces as mine but they are definitely different. My blade 11' 9" I have stock guides- the same puny dust collection tube. It does not have the little dust deflector you replaced. Dust collection on mine is horrible. How is yours? Mine also only takes up to 1"- I have never used more then 3/4 and most resawing I do is with a thin 1/2"- I was using a 3/8" I got with the saw until I finally broke it. I liked the thin kerf.

 

[Kevin]

I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?

 

[jimmyjames]

I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?

99% of the stuff i cut on my bandsaw starts off being 6"+ thick and i use an aggresive blade , i dont think you can get a 1.3 tpi blade in smaller blades can you? The aggressive blade allows me to plow through green blocks like a mad man. I did try it with a 3tpi blade x3/4" but im guessing the 1.3tpi 1.25" blade cut 3 times faster, sure the cut quality might be slightly less but when your cutting turning blanks...... oh and not to mention the wider blade is easier to keep a straight cut when free handing without a fence.

 

[DKMD]

I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?

99% of the stuff i cut on my bandsaw starts off being 6"+ thick and i use an aggresive blade , i dont think you can get a 1.3 tpi blade in smaller blades can you? The aggressive blade allows me to plow through green blocks like a mad man. I did try it with a 3tpi blade x3/4" but im guessing the 1.3tpi 1.25" blade cut 3 times faster, sure the cut quality might be slightly less but when your cutting turning blanks...... oh and not to mention the wider blade is easier to keep a straight cut when free handing without a fence.

I've seen 1.3tpi 1" blades, I think... I don't recall ever seeing one smaller than that.

Since you're cutting a lot of green wood, you might try the beeswax trick for keeping your blades clean... I keep a block near the saw and rub it against the blade(while the saw is running)every few cuts. So far, it's the best thing I've found for preventing the buildup of gunk on my blades.

 

[barry richardson]

Lennox makes a 2 tpi in 3/4 inch.

Kevin, happiness is a well tuned bandsaw with a new blade aint it?

 

[Kevin]

Yes sawing green changes things Jim. I resaw all that stuff on my mill - I wasn't thinking about sawing mostly big green stuff on the shop saw. I do it occasionally but not often.

 

[BarbS]

I've used a 1" 3tpi from Timberwolf, though I've found the 1/2" works just as well, it seems to me. I highly recommend the quality of their blades, and they have a great price right now on a 3-blade pack for green wood sawing: http://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#3

 

[jimmyjames]

Yes sawing green changes things Jim. I resaw all that stuff on my mill - I wasn't thinking about sawing mostly big green stuff on the shop saw. I do it occasionally but not often.

Someday I will have that luxury when I get my mill done also I go with the 1 1/4 blades since I'm getting them for $28 a piece, pretty cheap for a 154 1/2" blade. I almost bit the bullet a few weeks back and ordered a carbide tipped blade but for $250 would it last 10x longer than a steel blade? The 1 1/4 blades I use now last quite a while, I push them hard in thick stuff and I just now switched to my second blade, the first blade cut an awfully lot of blanks, I probably pushed 5000 pounds of wood through it or more I'm guessing.

 

[Kevin]

I'm definitely going to get a carbide blade for my shop saw but not for my mill I know I'd wreck it pronto.

I don't think your price for that blade is all that good. Call Robert at 877-420-9235 (Kenne-saw Supply in Georgia) and ask him to quote you on that blade. I'm paying quite a bit less for Munks blades 1.5" x 158" . . . . .

 

[jimmyjames]

Cool I will have to give him a shout, is that the brand your using for your mill?

 

[jimmyjames]

I will call him and see what his price is on 196" blades for my mill as well

 

[Sprung]

Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up, nothing like a well tuned tool. I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post.

As much as you know about tools, you still might get Louis Iturra's catalog. He's a true bandsaw guru but his forte is 14" saws. His catalog is the bible for 14" saws. Let me know if you want his phone number - you may already know him.

Kevin, good to see that you were able to get that beast tuned up! Would you mind sharing Iturra's number with me too? I've read many places that he is THE guy to talk to about bandsaws, but especially about the 14". And since I've got a Delta 14" that I'm looking at ordering some stuff for as soon as I have the money to, I think it would be good for me to call him, learn some things, and place an order with him.

 

[Kevin]

Iturra Design 904 642 2802 (Louis) Ask for his catalog too.

 

[Kevin]

Jimmy yes I use Munks from Kenne-saw for the mill and bladrunners for the shop saw. The bladerunner is the same as the Woodslicer except cheaper through Louis. Not what you're looking for for green wood though - I don't think he has oit in 1 tpi but Robert a Kenne-saw might.