I like that boat. Nice choice Henry....
Boat building
- Thread starter SENC
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I'm going to be watching this build. Years ago I purchased plans for a stitch and glue drift boat and I have resolved to finally build it. I started reviewing the plans a couple of weeks ago and have been researching sources of materials. The date on the instruction booklet leads me to believe that I purchased it in 1998, I think I will name it FV PROCRASTINATOR .
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- #24
What boat, and where did you get the plans? duckboats.net is a great resource.
Dog is thinkin, It looks a mite small...
My plans were purchased from Paul & Mary Butler, it's a Mini Mackenzie drift boat. The plan is still available from Butler projects with full size patterns for $100, I paid $35.00 back in the day.
I will be using 1/4" and 3/8" ULX plywood from a local lumber yard, I use this all the time for various projects. I have soaked scraps in water for days with no delamination and because it is underlayment grade there are no voids. It's around $20 for 1/4" and $35 for 3/8". The original plan calls for 4mm and 6mm marine grade and makes an extremely light 12' boat weighing under 100 pounds. My days of dragging boats a mile to fish some remote mudpuddle are gone, as long as I can slide it from the pickup bed to the water at a boat launch, I'm good.
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- #27
Great looking little boat, @sprucegum!
I've just been pricing 1088 marine plywood - $150-200 per sheet in the 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4" sizes I'll need. Ouch! But if I'm going to put in the time my build will require, I'm going to use the best product available. Epoxy resin ain't cheap, either!
I've just been pricing 1088 marine plywood - $150-200 per sheet in the 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4" sizes I'll need. Ouch! But if I'm going to put in the time my build will require, I'm going to use the best product available. Epoxy resin ain't cheap, either!
woodtickgreg
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Actually any exterior grade plywood will work just fine without having to spend big bucks on so called marine grade plywood. It's the glue that makes the difference, and exterior plywood uses waterproof glue. And if you seal everything in epoxy it'll be fine. Save the money on the plywood and put it into the epoxy.
I can't bring myself to spend the money for marine plywood and I think that good plywood encased in epoxy will last a good long time. I'm also doing a lot of research on epoxy; MAS epoxy is my tentative choice for a couple of reasons, including price. You can purchase smaller quantities of 3 different hardeners that all work with the same resin, my build calls for a minimum of 1 gallon so if I buy a gallon of resin and some slow and medium hardener, I will have a little over one gallon. If halfway through the build it becomes obvious that I will run short I can order more resin by the quart or gallon. I'm hoping to complete the project for under $500, the plywood will be around $130, that leaves 370 for other supply's.
underlayment with exterior glue, smooth finish, and no voids.
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- #31
This. Glue is definitely critical, but lack of voids and finish also very important. I definitely don't trust the plywood you can get anywhere. I think if you have access to a known supplier with product that have quality plys that don't have footballs (exterior or interior) or voids, you're probably good given the epoxy encapsulation. That's the value in the 1088 certification to me - knowing the plys are good and glue is good. I'm probably going to use Okoume for flexibility and weight, and because it is more rot-resistant than Douglas Fir. Encapsulation will prevent most moisture penetration, but not 100% - and as a duck boat and fishing boat it will get a little harsher treatment than many boats.
I'm still debating whether to "glass" it with fiberglass or something more durable, like Dynel. With our generally sandy bottoms, I suspect glass will be fine and would prefer to avoid the weight penalty of Dynel - but running rivers it'll be exposed to logs and stumps, too.
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- #32
Check out Progressive Epoxy. It's up in your neck of the woods and the product has a good reputation, though the website is rather wonky. I'm going to call the guy and chat in the next week or two to make a decision.
RAKA has also been recommended to me, as has MAS. WEST is readily available locally and is the gold standard, but their stuff is incredibly expensive. When I get around to pricing comparisons of these products in the next week or two I'll share here.
West is great stuff (and from my hometown! Gougeon Brothers is located in Bay City, MI.), but you are right - it is quite spendy. My father hardly ever used it because of the price and only used it when he needed epoxy now.
Raka is what he used almost exclusively. (And thus what I'm familiar with using.) He always had very good results with it. I'm not familiar with the others you mention.
Marine plywood vs. a good plywood with good glue and no voids - in all the boats that came out of dad's shop, I don't think he ever used marine plywood. But still went with good quality plywood. Encapsulation with epoxy, and fiberglass where needed (joints, areas subject to potential rubbing/wear/etc.), are key.
Looking forward to watching your build, Henry. That first time you get to take it out hunting - especially if you get something? You're going to have the biggest grin on your face!
woodtickgreg
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Total boat is another epoxy supplier.
Progressive seems to be located somewhere in New Hampshire but I couldn't find the exact location on their never ending website
Lots of information for sure, also wonky 
I agree, maybe a good one to strap a cat in..?...
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- #37
Nah, it might float.
Now you are going to tick @woodtickgreg offNah, it might float.
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- #39
It's never good to tick off a tick! Thanks for tagging him, dear old friend.
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- #40
Was looking for something and saw it... Pittsfield, NHProgressive seems to be located somewhere in New Hampshire but I couldn't find the exact location on their never ending website