BUILD DA BOX

Mike you are the boxmaster. Thanks for the build thread. I learn alot and get lots of ideas from stuff like this. I need one of them there cove cutters too.

Robert
 
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  • #62
Robert- Thanks and Thank You- Comments like yours are why I do build threads. If somebody can learn form them they are worth the effort. Your box shows how you took my Idea and made a new idea!!! The cutter cuts down on the sanding a lot. Next time I use it I might try to sharpen just a little bit to see if I can improve a little more. Another point is to have Table saw insert perfectly flush. If it is not it catches a corner and that transfers into workpiece. Normally you would not notice-but then again what other time to you feed saw a an angle. Amason is the cheapest I found.
 
Mike, what species is this one? Also I'd like to see a pic of the lid if you don't mind. That thing is gorgeous. Do you have any more of this species?

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  • #64
Kevin- Lids are only in rough stage. I will be working on lids next week. If you are asking about the 2nd one up- that sucker is the lowly red oak- hard to believe but it is true. I think when I am done the 2 red oaks will be my favorites- some wild grained and wild colored wood. These 2 were set aside from the red oak I have-I got it out of oregon and have used it for drawer sides. These were rejects. The lids will be just as nice or nicer.
 
I have tons (literally) of RO in various stages of rot/spalt so I probably don't need to buy any from you after all. But knowing it's RO doesn't take away from the beauty. That's one pretty box.

:drinks:
 
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  • #66
Thanks Kevin- I don't think it is spalt- I don't think it is burl-but it is something close. I have a few more pieces-closer to being burl- about 2' long but thick- You will see again. As I have said before boxes give you the chance to use wood that some would burn. Kinda like a turners hollow form.
 
Mike1950 said:
Kevin- Lids are only in rough stage. I will be working on lids next week. If you are asking about the 2nd one up- that sucker is the lowly red oak- hard to believe but it is true. I think when I am done the 2 red oaks will be my favorites- some wild grained and wild colored wood. These 2 were set aside from the red oak I have-I got it out of oregon and have used it for drawer sides. These were rejects. The lids will be just as nice or nicer.
People really need to stop bashing oak, I don't know how it has gotten such a bad name. Although it is not all as spectacular as this it can have some beautiful figure. The better figured boards will come from a local sawyer or mill, what would be consider rejects for a lumber yard. it's hard, dense,varies in color, machines well, holds a crisp edge, is relatively inexspensive, and is an abundant renewable resource in north america. But it does stink when you cut it. lol Here in Michigan the wood from the northern forest can have some beautiful mineral staining. How hard is it? Just ask a wood turner. It used to be a very sought after wood for craftsman and mission style furniture like from green n green, the hall brothers, and stickley. Wood like mike has chosen in his boxes should make people consider oak for some projects.
 
I know it isn't spalt etc. was just saying.

I think it is crotch but not sure.

:i_dunno:
 
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  • #69
Kevin said:
I know it isn't spalt etc. was just saying.

I think it is crotch but not sure.

:i_dunno:

I do not think so but ??? Did not have whole tree but boards were 20"+ wide with no live edge.
 
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  • #70
Not much time in shop and sure could not concentrate on starting lids. Sanded and put finish on all 14 boxes. Next -lids.

46hrs
 
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  • #71
Only have a couple hours in the shop last few days :dash2::dash2: now this afternoon I thought I had time but I am babysitting 2 1/2 yr old. :dash2::dash2::dash2: I have started on lid frames. The frames are put together with a bridal joint- overkill but I like it for this application. They are 1/2 thick by about 1 1/16 wide. Now if all the box tops were the same size this would be quick there are 5 or 6 different sized tops. The penalty for tweaking the design so they do not all look the same. 6 are the same size and those are what I have left to cut. In the bottom of each box I have a post it note with top size so the old man does not get confused. :wacko1::wacko1::wacko1:
Pictured is a simple jig that can be used to cut these joints and anybody could make it. I will use a store bought one and show the set up when I get started. I have come close to loseing a box but still have 14 in production.

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48 hrs

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I love jigs :good2::good: not the irish kind:negative::no dice. more please:
 
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  • #73
A little time this morning and this afternoon and lid frames are complete. A couple of small glitches but nothing that will be noticed by anybody but me. Pictured is completed bridal joint(no glue) and Tenon jig- if you like making tenons this is a handy tool. Tommorrow I will be on to the lid itself-another fun part with crazy wood.

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  • #74
The lid inset- These had an added difficulty cause some of them were small so planer was out and sander was in. Works great but it sure is slower. Then to complicate matters I had set aside pieces I wanted to use But---- 3 of them when I got done were too small :dash2::dash2::dash2::dash2: down the road you will see the solution.
Inset is held in by a 1/8" groove in inset and lid frame. I saved some of the lid frame scrap to test fit the set up. When it is right the frame and inset fit tightly without any glue. Not the quickest way to make a lid-nor by any means the easiest but it sure is slick the way it goes together. The bridal joint will get glue but the inset will not. The finish line is getting visible. The lid is about the most complicated part of box.

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61 hrs

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The frame and inset for the lid is pretty slick the way it all fits together! :good2::good: Will you put a coat of finish on the lid before it's glued together? I don't know how much a small piece like these will expand and contract, and being that they will only be glued on the corner bridles it will allow for movement, finish line could show? Great job MIKE! LOOKING REALLY NICE!
 
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  • #76
woodtickgreg said:
The frame and inset for the lid is pretty slick the way it all fits together! :good2::good: Will you put a coat of finish on the lid before it's glued together? I don't know how much a small piece like these will expand and contract, and being that they will only be glued on the corner bridles it will allow for movement, finish line could show? Great job MIKE! LOOKING REALLY NICE!

Greg, Thanks. Good point on finish line but I build 15 similar-no cove-boxes in 2001 and I can see no finish line in the 2 that I kept. Does not mean it could not happen. Insets are about 6.5x9.5 and I doubt they can move much.
 
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  • #77
To add to above post on lids and grooves. These grooves have to start and stop back from the ends of the frames otherwise they will show in the bridal joint corners. I start them about 1/2-3/4" back from the ends so the inset will fit. Any questions ask away.
 
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  • #79
NYWoodturner said:
Beautiful work Mike. I love the joinery. Thats an art in itself. :good:

Thanks Scott, these boxes are an exercise in joinery- multiple kinds. I think back and I am amazed at how much I have learned from changing a simple box with joinery into a much more complicated one but basicaly the same box.

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Quite an evolution from this box- but that is where it came from. Boxes are so small but can be as complicated as a bedroom set if you make them be so.

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  • #80
I am back- happy to see SPA woodworks is working on a box- a nice one. I am getting close to end of machine work on box. These lids are an exercize in little pieces fitting together just so. I changed the outside board width- I made 3/16 narrower so my red oak would work out. Only one problem -my persimmon lid insett did not get the message-stayed the same size and in the end was shy 1/8":dash2::fit::dash2::fit::dash2::fit: Ok now after some very polite words about the origin of this stupid wood:fit::fit::fit:- I sat down and worked out a solution which allowed me to use the inset pieces.
Again there are a lot of ways to build lids- use this way if you are just a little touched- it is definitely not the easiest lid design.
Most of the rounding has been done with that 1 1/2" radius bit. It gives a soft curve.

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71 hrs.

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