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@@COMPLETED@@Something you don't have: Chrysanthemum Wood

Karl_TN

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Interesting. It looks EXACTLY like the "chicken blood wood" (Spatholobus suberectus) you can see on my site, but that one's supposedly a vine

@Byron Barker, Do you think "chicken blood wood" got it's name because the vine bleeds red sap? Just wondering if your vines showed any red sap when freshly cut like this?

Spatholobus.jpg
 

Byron Barker

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@Byron Barker, Do you think "chicken blood wood" got it's name because the vine bleeds red sap? Just wondering if your vines showed any red sap when freshly cut like this?

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It did not do any bleeding. I looked into the vine that was mentioned and I'm not sure the two are the exact species. It may be the younger vines have this quality and older don't. Don't know. The Chinese name for chicken blood wood refers to Chinese elm in Taiwan. Weird.
 

Tony

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I looked, sorry, but I don't have anything that clear. Tony
 

Byron Barker

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Glad to hear it. How about contributing a cookie of that stuff so I can take my own pic? If you make it 1" thick, I'll slice it and give Mark one as well. It won't make a standard sized sample for him but at least he'll have it (and I don't care about sample size). I'll pay postage if you want (and even assuming you're willing to part w/ a thick cookie).
Since I'll send you a some samples, please let me know if you want cut offs of any of the following as well. Pomelo, orange jessamine, longan, cinnamon, hinoki, guava, acacia confusa, bridellia. I can't do deminsional lumber of most of those woods at my workshop since they are too hard for my equipment, but cut offs are fine. Hinoki would be some old pecky board wood cut to whatever. Most will have some checking.
 

Byron Barker

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My fault - wasn't thinking lumber. Any interest in canarywood? I should have a clean plank that is roughly 2" x 8" x 4', easy to cut to spindle. Also wenge and maybe Pau amorello, though have to check thickness on that one tonight.
I like canary wood a lot. I brought back a snowboard bag full of it, hickory, ash and walnut last time I was home. No need for it now. Also brought some zebrawood... Which turned out to be a bad choice in bag space. I'm not familiar with the other wood listed. I'll check it out.
 

Byron Barker

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Ive always seen pau amerello listed as yellow heart so didn't recognize it. No interest though.
 

phinds

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Since I'll send you a some samples, please let me know if you want cut offs of any of the following as well. Pomelo, orange jessamine, longan, cinnamon, hinoki, guava, acacia confusa, bridellia. I can't do deminsional lumber of most of those woods at my workshop since they are too hard for my equipment, but cut offs are fine. Hinoki would be some old pecky board wood cut to whatever. Most will have some checking.
Thanks very much.

Pomelo just need enough to get a decent end grain shot for the anatomy pages since it's not on the main pages

orange jessamine, longan, guava, and bridellia I don't need but cutoffs would be nice from cinnamon, hinoki and acacia confusa

Don't want this to get too big since I figure postage from Twaiwan will be expensive
 

Byron Barker

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Thanks very much.

Pomelo just need enough to get a decent end grain shot for the anatomy pages since it's not on the main pages

orange jessamine, longan, guava, and bridellia I don't need but cutoffs would be nice from cinnamon, hinoki and acacia confusa

Don't want this to get too big since I figure postage from Twaiwan will be expensive
Actually, postage from here is quite cheap. Just not the other way around. Can you explain what kind of cut would be good for an end grain picture. Not sure. Maybe a pic similar to what you'd like.
 

phinds

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Actually, postage from here is quite cheap. Just not the other way around. Can you explain what kind of cut would be good for an end grain picture. Not sure. Maybe a pic similar to what you'd like.
The best cut by far is a small "plank" that has about 3/4" of end grain, is at least 2" wide and 3" long. Bigger is better but I certainly don't need anything bigger than the IWCS standard of 3" wide by 6" long by 1/2" thick (I like more than 1/2" thick 'cause it presents more end grain).
 

D T Hauser

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I've got these x-large chrysanthemum logs that were cut two months ago. To my knowledge, this isn't actually the flower, but the characteristics of this vines grain makes it look like the flower. The name in Chinese is Chrysanthemum, but I can't determine the actual plant. At any rate, it is a slow grower and it is rare to find anything of size like this. They need to dry some more I found out after cutting the ends off today. I'm a bowyer and would like to trade for some bow quality wood. 4x4x90cm blank of straight-grained and clean wood of any of the following species: Apple, crabapple, plum, service/saskatoon wood, yew (thin ringed), osage, ebony or african blackwood, lignum vitae, katalox, black palm, camatillo, bocote, chechen or mesquite. I need to mention, bow quality wood is totally straight grained and free of defects or twist or it doesn't work. I understand most turners are looking for exactly the opposite in wood and I normally source bow wood locally or from known suppliers of staves. Just thought this would be a good opportunity for some of you guys to try something new. I've got 3 logs right now that are around 50cmX8cm. I've got more smaller diameter. I can get more smaller diameter logs as well. I am not sure the legality of shipping wood with bark on it to the States, so it may need to be cut into a blank prior to shipping. Shipping your side would be to my relatives in CO., not out of the country. Below are the logs and some examples of it dry and turned.

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Bauhinia championii see https://blackwalnut.npust.edu.tw/archives/anatomy/127941
 

Byron Barker

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Firefox lists this site as not secure so I'm not going to go to it. What does it say as regards this thread? Specifically, does it have wood pics of the listed species?
I had the same issue. I went to the site and it won't let me in. It is attached to a university, so it might have something to do with that. That picture came up when I used the Chinese name, so it confirmed it was the same vine, just not sure what that is. I'll talk to my friend at the local university. He might know.
 

Byron Barker

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Wow, I would love some plum! I normally do staves, but recently I have been doing laminate bows. I need basically board wood for this and not staves. Backing wood is easy enough for me to source here, but not belly wood. So, I am trying to source some long blanks for belly laminations. Belly wood on a bow needs to be high in compression and strong enough to handle the stretching brought on by the backing strip of wood (usually bamboo or ash backing in my case). I could just source some Ipe or another boring belly wood I've done in the past, but I'd like some new stuff to experiment with. Plum will never get old to me. I like it too much. However, I would ask for it to be somewhat dry. If you ship it wet, it will check to hell in my climate.

I am not really sure what exactly the USDA does to determine what comes in or not. I've done a lot of shipping of chinese herbs that I collected myself and sent to the States without any issue. I just label the species and state that is has been "processed". As far as wood, I've always been told to not ship wood with the bark on due to bugs. However, I feel like if I were to seal it up with some poly and make it look processed in this regard, they may not care. The bark on this stuff is like hickory bark: it doesn't like coming off. That and it looks nice. I was considering simply listing it as an herb since it is known for that far better than the wood. So like I said, I am a bit up in the air about it. The best bet would be to cut it into smaller segments, seal it and make it not look like I just cut it out of the jungle behind my house ;-). Either way, I'd ask you to wait till your end comes in before shipping my end to CO. Or, I could pay you for the plum and osage in the event it doesn't come in.
 

Byron Barker

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This is a black ebony bow I made from some ebony I sourced from a guitar shop. It was a 2x2x36'' blank. I cut it in half, spliced it, glued on a bamboo boo backing, overlayed orange jessamine for the handle and horn on the tips. Bravo! A wonderful to shoot and beautiful to look at bow. I'd like to make more like that.

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Arn213

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I am not really sure what exactly the USDA does to determine what comes in or not. I've done a lot of shipping of chinese herbs that I collected myself and sent to the States without any issue. I just label the species and state that is has been "processed". As far as wood, I've always been told to not ship wood with the bark on due to bugs. However, I feel like if I were to seal it up with some poly and make it look processed in this regard, they may not care. The bark on this stuff is like hickory bark: it doesn't like coming off.

These go through x-rays done by Custom officers. Lumber of any form cannot have the following and has restrictions: bug bores, pin holes, rot/punk, heavy spalting, live edge, bark incursion/inclusion, ingrown bark, bark attached, mineralization that shows up “black”, “ghosting trails” such as bug feces. When these don’t pass “clearance” Customs will send you a slip whether you want the following done if they find anything “suspect” about the lumber:redcard:: a). quarantine, b). sanitary/phytosanitary inspection or c). destroy. If you choose “b” option there is a fee of $ 40 to fumigate the wood per item if there are in seperate packages. These are the reasons why international packages ends up being longer that expected for delivery due to Customs inspection and administrative formalities. The only way to get around this is to get a professional fumigation service done on your shipment and attached into your package as proof prior to shipping internationally.

Yes, you can put a “clear coat” and list it as a “finished product”..........much more passable in dimensional lumber form. Other forms such as unprocessed form such as short logs, live edge for organic form, well expect the worse......

What I listed above I did not google and these are direct experience- “Land Down Under” is very, very strict and they don’t want anything to get into their country that would result in catastrophic nature that threatens their trees, forest, agriculture, etc.. I never shipped not knowing any of their rules:rulz:, matter of fact I alert recipients in what might happen and they still are insistent- damn “wood addicts”:whatever:. Some “pin holes” can drive up a red flag. Put it this way, one species was black limba and they red flagged it because of the variegated streaks.

Lesson learned- shipping lumber international is expensive, plus there are associated taxes imposed by the destination country and the possibility of it being flagged by customs will incur additional cost passed on to the importer.
 

Byron Barker

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Yes, I used to live in Sydney and would watch the boarder patrol show they have on TV there. They are strict as hell. I think the US is more lazy about it depending on who it is looking at your package, but yes, it would be handy to have a professional fumigate it. How to find that in Taiwan, I don't know.
 

Byron Barker

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Byron, I might be cutting up a plum and osage tree soon so I'll keep an eye out for a clear piece 3ft long. Are you only wanting dried wood, or would sealed green wood work? Also, how are you defining a stave vs board in this case?

Do you think wood like this vine needs to be certified for shipping between countries so it doesn't get confiscated by customs? Is removing bark a necessary evil, or can it be treated by another means (i.e. certified heat treatment) so the bark can be left intact? If the only requirement is to remove the bark needs then what about the dangers from other pest that bore into the wood?
I spoke with the quarantine office here and downloaded some info, but they stated irregardless of treatment type, the bark needs to some off. So, the only way I'd be able to ship it is in a blank form. Pitty because it looks so cool naturally. If you are still interested though, let me know and I can cut some large blanks out of it.
 
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