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Electric chain saw sharpeners

justallan

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I buy the cylindrical shaped stones and use my Dremel when at the house and it takes probably 3-4 minutes per chain. I have a 12 volt sharpener that goes for $35-40, but don't care for it.
I'll sharpen 4 or 5 chains and carry with me when I'm away from the house and just change them when I need. Sometimes I'll touch them up with a file while I'm having a smoke, but I tend to run a chain to long and it needs more than a touch-up.
 

woodtickgreg

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With the bench grinders like the Oregon, technique is very critical to not overheat the cutter. It's part of the learning curve.
 
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Alex Beck

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I started out using a file which works fine but its time consuming. Im currently running half a dozen Stihl saws so I decided to purchase a electric grinder. It was one of the best purchases I've made and paid for itself quickly. Tecomec (if I remember correctly) is Italian made and is the brand I purchased, its around $300-$350 and an excellent machine. I also quickly found of that Tecomec is the OEM that produces the Oregon sharpener so there's no real point in paying extra for the Oregon machine. The biggest advantage to an electric sharpener aside from the time and money savings, is that its accurately sets the bevel & size of each tooth. Over time, as you hand file, you will notice that the bevel and size of each tooth will vary, which can make the chainsaw pull one way in the cut. Also you you sharpen the chain, your raker teeth need to be filed down to allow the chainsaw teeth to get a full bite in the wood. The Tecomec also allows you to quickly grind down the raker teeth as well. Another detail that most sharpeners overlook is creating a gullet in the tooth which allows the tooth to take a larger/heavier shaving. Using that Tecomec sharpener, I can get every chain much sharper than a new factory chain, especially if I take light passes on the grinding process.
 

Karl_TN

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I started out using a file which works fine but its time consuming. Im currently running half a dozen Stihl saws so I decided to purchase a electric grinder. It was one of the best purchases I've made and paid for itself quickly. Tecomec (if I remember correctly) is Italian made and is the brand I purchased, its around $300-$350 and an excellent machine. I also quickly found of that Tecomec is the OEM that produces the Oregon sharpener so there's no real point in paying extra for the Oregon machine. The biggest advantage to an electric sharpener aside from the time and money savings, is that its accurately sets the bevel & size of each tooth. Over time, as you hand file, you will notice that the bevel and size of each tooth will vary, which can make the chainsaw pull one way in the cut. Also you you sharpen the chain, your raker teeth need to be filed down to allow the chainsaw teeth to get a full bite in the wood. The Tecomec also allows you to quickly grind down the raker teeth as well. Another detail that most sharpeners overlook is creating a gullet in the tooth which allows the tooth to take a larger/heavier shaving. Using that Tecomec sharpener, I can get every chain much sharper than a new factory chain, especially if I take light passes on the grinding process.

Alex, Great information in Tecomec.

For anyone interested, Maverick Mower Supply currently has the Tecomec Grinder Model 700-010 with Hydraulic (same as Oregon Model 620-120) listed for $270.21 (free shipping). This is $30 cheaper than the NON-Hydraulic Oregon model 520-120 on Amazon. You get the hydraulic option and save money at the same time.

https://maverickmowersupply.com/700010-chain-grinder-super-jolly-w-hydraulic-clamp

Tecomec_Super_Jolly.jpg
 
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woodtickgreg

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Almost makes me want to upgrade my old Oregon.....................almost.
 

Patrude

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So I have this completely unorthodox method that I've been doing for years. Mind you, I said unorthodox, but its quick and works for me. Keeping the chain mounted I clamp my saw to my bench. Next I chuck the appropriate file into my drill. Set my angle guide lock the chain in place and do all the cutters on one side checking the angle by eye for reference I go from the saw toward the end of the bar. I release the chain lock, move it by hand lock it down , set the reference and go back to it. Woth the file spinning it only takes couple seconds per cutter. Once one side is done I do the other side. Light pressure so I dont snap the file. I'm ready to get questionable reviews on this but as I said it works for me. Takes less out of the chain than the grinder which helps my chains longevity:haggle:go easy on me I'm a senior citizen...have a super Saturday
 
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Alex Beck

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I can see that working, I used a dremel attachment before I purchased the electric grinder and its essentially the same idea. I'll point out a few things that affect my consideration for sharpening & chain longevity. Typically, I may get 7 or more sharpenings out of a chain which is about the duration I can run chain before the stretch becomes so excessive that I cannot properly tension the chain on the bar. I may get heavier wear on the chain due to filings down the raker teeth to allow to take larger chips and cut quicker so some folks may not see as much stretch on their chains. That being said, I can purchase oregon 20in chain at 3/8 kerf 72 count 0.050 chain for about $12-$15 per chain, when I purchase a 4 or 5 pack. For myself, the chains are so cheap I consider them disposable after half a dozen or more sharpenings. Stihl chain is slightly tougher as the teeth are a bit harder, you can tell when your sharpening it on the grinding wheel but at $25-$30 per chain its not worth it for me. If I were only running 1 or 2 saws, I dunno if I could justify the $300 investment of the electric grinder, after all, you could easily purchase 20-25 new chains and keep a stockpile.
 

David Hill

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Heck I don't know, lol. It's out in the cold garage, next time I'm out there I'll take a look.
This is probably the equivalent version Of what I have, this is the newer model but still has all of the adjustments.
Oregon 520-120 Bench Saw Chain Grinder

I’ll add to this one—- this is what I bought after doing a lot of net searching. I did use a a HF before, but this is a big step up & my chains are great now.
HF is ok but you cannot change the angle of the wheel— what I needed to do for my Stihl chains.
 
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