Setting Up Shop

[Sprung]

@Sprung , first great accomplishments!!! Wow, this is exciting. So, in the Military and bouncing around from place to place, you finish a house restoration, or setting up shop, orders would come in just about the time you were actually enjoying it. That isn't going to happen to you is it??

Also, know you like older, well built tools, but that stereo is dating you as well...…..

Well, we don't get orders like in the military, so they're not going to ship me off to someplace else on their decision! I do know that, at some point, yes, we will move again. But I'm hoping it's not for a long while. We were in Minnesota for close to 6 years - the shop saw lots of changes in that time. There were times it was fully set up, but then I'd add in another tool and have to start over again. At this point I've pretty much got every stationary tool I will want/need - just a couple things left on the want/need list - so whenever those last items come in, there really won't be a lot of having to redo everything. As far as housing goes, we neither own nor rent - We've lived in parsonages throughout my pastoral ministry thus far. So there hasn't been much I've had to do as far as working on the house. And the parsonage we're living in now was extensively remodeled prior to us moving in.

At current rate, I should be building stuff soon. It will start with some shop projects and eventually transition into some furniture items for our home.

Ha! You know, I'm not all that old. I'm only 36. The stereo in the garage was the sound system I purchased new about 10 years ago for my living room TV. The optical input, which is what linked the TV to the sound system, stopped working, so it got "retired" and ended up getting set up in the shop. My wife much prefers a sound bar to a full sound system in the living room and I've been happy with the soundbar too. And happy to have good sound for music in the garage.

 

[Sprung]

Got a good amount of wiring done in the shop today. Still much more to go, but got a nice start. Also had to build a quick platform for me to stand on so that I could reach the ceiling. The box I have used previously (wood box that my chainsaw is stored in) has always worked well. At 9', the ceiling in the new shop is about 6" higher, so standing on the chainsaw box just wasn't quite enough. I've got this wiring project to do, DC lines to run, and lights to hang - so the platform will get put to good use.

 

[Gdurfey]

Matt, you doing conduit I am assuming? That is how they extended my wiring in my garage. I added 2 circuits plus an RV circuit going out the garage wall.

 

[Sprung]

After discussing it with an electrician, we are using armored cable. My first time using it and it is rather easy to run.

 

[eaglea1]

Matt, what an interesting journey this is for you and to share with all of us.. I just finished my new shop and wish I would've taken the time to document it
in the same way. I'm a recently retired master electrician and of course used a lot of bx ( armored cable) and I gotta say it wasn't my favorite to work with,
especially when you start getting a little slower and hand issues come in the picture. That's when apprentices got real handy! I applaud you in your efforts and
wish you good luck . Randy

 

[Sprung]

Thanks, Randy. It's been an adventure thus far. And one thing I've repeatedly observed is that it would be easier to get the shop up and running if, well, the shop was up and running first! I would have really liked to have done electrical earlier in the process, but that really wasn't feasible, especially because some of the runs - especially the 240 for my Unisaw - were dependent upon where machines were going.

I can see why BX might not have been your favorite to work with, especially with hand issues. It's been rather easy for me thus far, but that doesn't mean there hasn't been those moments either! And I still have lots more of it to run.

 

[Sprung]

Got some more wiring done in the shop today. A fair amount of today's work was overhead work, running lines from the sub-panel to various places in the shop. Overhead work is not something I enjoy very much, especially after a shoulder injury several years ago that has never fully healed. Getting closer to having the wiring of the garage done.

 

[Sprung]

The one thing I need to figure out is how to best drop a couple lines from the ceiling - a 240V line to power my table saw and a 120V line to provide power for my planner, jointer, and for some power at the outfeed table.

@eaglea1 - any suggestions that won't break the bank? (If you don't mind me asking.)

 

[sprucegum]

The one thing I need to figure out is how to best drop a couple lines from the ceiling - a 240V line to power my table saw and a 120V line to provide power for my planner, jointer, and for some power at the outfeed table.

@eaglea1 - any suggestions that won't break the bank? (If you don't mind me asking.)

A problem that I have been considering when I build my shop. If I choose a location in advance I could run conduit under the slab, since you already have a slab it gets more complicated. You could rent a concrete saw and cut a groove in the floor for the conduit, another option is to use metal conduit fastened solidly to the floor with taptron screws. If you want to come from the ceiling I would use MC or BX cable routed along your dust collection pipes.

 

[woodtickgreg]

For me, cords from above always seem to get in the way of whatever I'm trying to cut on the saw. When I need to use the saw I just run an extension cord to it and then unplug it when I'm done so the cord isn't a trip hazard. But it leaves the area above the saw table clear. I also do this with any of my mobile machines.
And with a 220 cord you can use twist lock plugs.
Just food for thought.

 

[eaglea1]

Matt, perhaps not the best idea, but in my first shop I ran my dust collector pipes from the ceiling down along a 2x6 and then ran a conduit "stub" up to the ceiling
fastened to the board as well and then placed an outlet at eye level or below. In my new shop I planned everything out so that I ended up with everything (the electrical)
along the walls. The cord drops aren't the worst thing in the world along as you use strain reliefs and tension springs on the cords. They are actually better for
a permanent placement of the tool instead of a portable one. A conduit drop will work, but per code it has to be secured properly coming down. Good luck, hope this
helps a little. Randy

 

[Sprung]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will also be running a dust collection line drop down from the ceiling, so having power come down from the ceiling would be fine at that location. I don't want to have to run a DC hose across the floor, either permanently or temporarily, as I know it would become a safety hazard for me. The machines there are going to be permanently setup there. I even thought of running cords in one of those ramped raceways across the floor, but it would be too much of a tripping hazard for me. I had one in my last shop in a low traffic area and it wasn't ideal.

Cutting concrete, especially in a house that I don't own, is more involved than I want to get. Plus there is a floor drain in that area, so I'd have to work around that. So I'll either do a cord drop or put up a false post to run wiring down and to help give the DC drop (which will have branches off to all three machines located there) some extra support.

Thanks, guys!

In my dream shop, I'd build from the ground up and would plan for in floor DC and electrical. But I gotta work with what I've got - and am real happy to have what I've got! (And this is the biggest shop space I've had yet.)

 

[sprucegum]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will also be running a dust collection line drop down from the ceiling, so having power come down from the ceiling would be fine at that location. I don't want to have to run a DC hose across the floor, either permanently or temporarily, as I know it would become a safety hazard for me. The machines there are going to be permanently setup there. I even thought of running cords in one of those ramped raceways across the floor, but it would be too much of a tripping hazard for me. I had one in my last shop in a low traffic area and it wasn't ideal.

Cutting concrete, especially in a house that I don't own, is more involved than I want to get. Plus there is a floor drain in that area, so I'd have to work around that. So I'll either do a cord drop or put up a false post to run wiring down and to help give the DC drop (which will have branches off to all three machines located there) some extra support.

Thanks, guys!

In my dream shop, I'd build from the ground up and would plan for in floor DC and electrical. But I gotta work with what I've got - and am real happy to have what I've got! (And this is the biggest shop space I've had yet.)

I have often thought of under slab DC pipes but I wonder what happens if it plugs up. I have a friend that has his shop in part of a converted dairy barn, there were gutters 18" wide and several inches deep for the cow poop. Rather than fill them he ran his DC in them and covered them with plywood, it made a nice neat job. The only tool that would really benefit in my opinion is the table saw, in my old shop it was always in the way for ripping 4x8 sheets.

 

[Gdurfey]

if you don't mind me asking; I looked up BX cable and saw what it was. Recognized it, just never knew what it was called. Do one of you mind sharing how you cut the metal "armor" without cutting the wire insulation? That would be my problem; I can already see it happening!!!

That is a huge step forward Matt!!! I wired an old pole barn. Never had it inspected, but it never burned either. Several questions emerged from that effort as to what is "code" for a few things I did, but I do know I was conservative and safe. That is all I will take credit for.

 

[Sprung]

I have often thought of under slab DC pipes but I wonder what happens if it plugs up. I have a friend that has his shop in part of a converted dairy barn, there were gutters 18" wide and several inches deep for the cow poop. Rather than fill them he ran his DC in them and covered them with plywood, it made a nice neat job. The only tool that would really benefit in my opinion is the table saw, in my old shop it was always in the way for ripping 4x8 sheets.

Using the gutters in that manner was wise of your friend. I've envisioned creating something like that - either gutters with a cover or a completely raised wood floor - because being able to access it in the future (problems with the DC plugging, wanting to relocate tools, adding new power runs, etc) would be valuable.

if you don't mind me asking; I looked up BX cable and saw what it was. Recognized it, just never knew what it was called. Do one of you mind sharing how you cut the metal "armor" without cutting the wire insulation? That would be my problem; I can already see it happening!!!

This tool cuts the sheating on the BX cable. If I only had to run one or two BX cables, I might have chanced trying to be really careful with a hacksaw. But doing a whole shop? Yeah, it was worth buying. There is then a little plastic plug that goes in to protect the wires from the cut end of the sheathing.

 

[sprucegum]

Using the gutters in that manner was wise of your friend. I've envisioned creating something like that - either gutters with a cover or a completely raised wood floor - because being able to access it in the future (problems with the DC plugging, wanting to relocate tools, adding new power runs, etc) would be valuable.



This tool cuts the sheating on the BX cable. If I only had to run one or two BX cables, I might have chanced trying to be really careful with a hacksaw. But doing a whole shop? Yeah, it was worth buying. There is then a little plastic plug that goes in to protect the wires from the cut end of the sheathing.

When I was building full time my electrician used a hacksaw. My heating guy wired his own furnaces and had that tool. Not that hard with a hacksaw. The coating needs to be shorter than the wire so you can cut through both then pull the wire back out of the way to shorten the coating.

 

[eaglea1]

Dave, you're correct about the hacksaw, in that we always cut it across our knee at an angle and "popped" it off before it cut clean thru.
Don't forget to use BX bushings Matt. They're red plastic ones that you slip into the cut end of the BX of course. I had never seen one of
those tools for cutting it and funny thing is that if anyone was probably "caught" using one they would be laughed off the job , kinda of
same thing if you were seen using an offset bender. LOL Old school, I know!

 

[Sprung]

Dave, you're correct about the hacksaw, in that we always cut it across our knee at an angle and "popped" it off before it cut clean thru.
Don't forget to use BX bushings Matt. They're red plastic ones that you slip into the cut end of the BX of course. I had never seen one of
those tools for cutting it and funny thing is that if anyone was probably "caught" using one they would be laughed off the job , kinda of
same thing if you were seen using an offset bender. LOL Old school, I know!

At least there's no one who is going to laugh me off this job site, LOL!

Yup - I have definitely been using the bushings. I want to get this finished and move on to the next part of getting the shop set up - not get stuck on troubleshooting because I didn't do something right!

 

[Sprung]

I may or may not get into the shop for a bit tonight - am hoping to, but not sure yet if it will happen.

I did order lights today. Ordered these from Amazon. These, plus some specific/focused lighting in a few areas, should ensure that I have no problems with poor lighting!

Downside is that they aren't projected to be delivered until May 12. I've had a few things I've ordered with extended delivery times show up sooner than projected, so I'm hopeful that will happen with these lights.

 

[Sprung]

Straightened up where I had all the electrical stuff laid out - needed the space to build the support for the power and DC drop over the tool island in the shop. Got the support built and put up and did a little more wiring. Not much wiring work in the garage and then all that will be left to do is run the line between the main panel and the sub-panel. Already have the needed breaker, just need to buy the wire - I'll do that after measuring how much will be needed. (And then add on some extra, because I'd rather have some leftover than end up a foot short...)

And got an update from Amazon - good news - my lights will be here earlier than they first told me.

Current list is:
Finish wiring
Hang lights
Run DC lines

Once those things are done, then I can get machines dialed back in and start building things. First things up will be some shop projects.