Your shop is looking good Matt,you’ll be back to building stuff in no time.
Setting Up Shop
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woodtickgreg
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That's a great idea on the switch, I might steal that one from you, lol.
I think my saw is older than yours, mines a 9" blade. Yours is a 10" if I remember correctly. But I got mine cheap, did the bearing thing and put a new cord on it. And it's as good as new, and yours will be too!
I think my saw is older than yours, mines a 9" blade. Yours is a 10" if I remember correctly. But I got mine cheap, did the bearing thing and put a new cord on it. And it's as good as new, and yours will be too!
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- #123
Nope, mine's a 9" as well. It's a MBC. Serial number dates it to 1954. The design of your blade guard, as well as the design of the AMF logo on yours, puts yours as newer than mine, though maybe not too much newer.
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- #124
The time I've spent in the shop the last few days has involved sorting hardware. I've used these organizers from Harbor Freight for a while now and really like them for hardware. Except I outgrew what I had, so I purchased more organizers and am building a new rack to hold them.
You'll notice some of them are different. Harbor Freight didn't have all that I needed and, after two months, they finally cancelled my order. For a little bit more money I ordered the Stanley version from Home Depot. Once I had them in hand, I noticed that they were of better quality than the Harbor Freight ones - and I'd say worth the extra cost. If/when I need more, I'm buying the Stanley ones. Besides, after being strung along by customer service for 2 months - including being told in the middle of it all that my order would ship out the next day - I'm done with Harbor Freight.
This week I'm going to finish up the RAS and then will get to building the new rack to hold my hardware organizers. That rack will go under the wall mounted workbench I recently finished up. It'll be shallow enough to be set in a bit, giving me leg room if I'm sitting on a stool at the bench.
You'll notice some of them are different. Harbor Freight didn't have all that I needed and, after two months, they finally cancelled my order. For a little bit more money I ordered the Stanley version from Home Depot. Once I had them in hand, I noticed that they were of better quality than the Harbor Freight ones - and I'd say worth the extra cost. If/when I need more, I'm buying the Stanley ones. Besides, after being strung along by customer service for 2 months - including being told in the middle of it all that my order would ship out the next day - I'm done with Harbor Freight.
This week I'm going to finish up the RAS and then will get to building the new rack to hold my hardware organizers. That rack will go under the wall mounted workbench I recently finished up. It'll be shallow enough to be set in a bit, giving me leg room if I'm sitting on a stool at the bench.
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- #125
I think it was 6 or 7 hours to sort through all my hardware - especially all the loose stuff, and get it all reorganized. My wife joined me the last couple nights - we watched something on TV while I sorted through hardware.
What a dream come true to have all hardware sorted! I really need a system like yours, apparently! Could you show a couple of pics of inside your containers, to get a glimpse of how you sort within containers? Chuck
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- #127
I'm not at home right now, but here's a pic from the Home Depot website of the inside of the Stanley storage containers. The Harbor Freight ones are the same. It contains different containers - which can be easily reconfigured for position too. For example, the one organizer devoted to electrical connectors (which are all small parts) I migrated a lot of the smallest container sizes to it and swapped the larger containers they replaced into other organizers where I needed fewer of the smallest size. The deeper/taller organizers have larger compartments, good for sorting out larger pieces of hardware (like draper pulls, etc) or larger quantities of items (like my most commonly used screws that I like to keep a larger quantity of on hand.)
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- #128
The sorting and organizing never ends! 
Did more sorting and organizing today, before it just got too hot to work out there any longer. Once I get a little more done, I can move on to finishing up my RAS. Then I will build the new hardware organizer that will hold all the hardware bins. Getting the RAS done first as I will be doing quite a few dados in building the hardware organizer and almost all of them will be easier to do on the RAS than on the table saw.
Did more sorting and organizing today, before it just got too hot to work out there any longer. Once I get a little more done, I can move on to finishing up my RAS. Then I will build the new hardware organizer that will hold all the hardware bins. Getting the RAS done first as I will be doing quite a few dados in building the hardware organizer and almost all of them will be easier to do on the RAS than on the table saw.
I just ran into your build thread and I haven't got through all of it yet. You've got a lot of piping run. How big of dust collector do you have? I tried to run not even half as much as you and I had to cut that in have to get it to work properly.
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- #130
Doesn't seem like a lot of piping to me, lol. Though it was a long run to get a drop down by the radial arm saw. I have one drop that goes to the lathe and belt/disc sander. The other goes up and has a branch off to the table saw/jointer/planer island and the other end to the radial arm saw. Blast gates are at every machine, so I'm not needing a giant dust collector to pull enough air through - I only have the blast gate of the machine I'm using open and flow has never been an issue for me.
I have a Harbor Freight dust collector. Well, not much of it left now. I have the motor and the impeller housing left. I upgraded the impeller to a larger one, went with a pleated filter, and have a Dust Deputy cyclone. The system works well. My piping is 4" PVC.
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- #132
This is the one I have. Stated 2HP, 1550CFM. No idea what kind of CFM it's doing with the impeller upgrade. With the use of blast gates, it's basically like I have a single line run to whatever tool I'm using. (Of course, that also ignores the science of what happens to the air flow, etc. due to bends in the pipe, size of pipe, etc. But I have only one blast gate open at a time - the one to whatever tool I'm using.)
But, it has worked well for me - both in the previous shop (where I had less and shorter pipe runs) and in the new shop. No problem keeping up with either jointer or planer, which produce a greater volumes of material/shavings at a faster rate than any other machines in my shop.
But, it has worked well for me - both in the previous shop (where I had less and shorter pipe runs) and in the new shop. No problem keeping up with either jointer or planer, which produce a greater volumes of material/shavings at a faster rate than any other machines in my shop.
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- #133
Got some shop time in today before the heat drove me back into the house. After cutting some stakes to help trellis some of the plants in our garden, I started working on a new table for my RAS. Doing a Mr. Sawdust style. I didn't buy his book (though I probably will at some point), but did glean this process from a couple YouTube videos and forum posts elsewhere.
I cut 3/4" MDF to width - two pieces. Cut three slots into each piece. Steel bars will go in each piece to stiffen up the top. Epoxy was applied to both pieces in a very thin coat with a little bit in the slots as well. The steel bars (3/4" x 1/8") were placed into the slots and then the two pieces are sandwiched together.
Ideally you would do this on the flattest surface you have and then put heavy stuff on top to weight it down while the epoxy sets. Unfortunately that didn't go so well for me. Everything went great in test fitting, but once I had the epoxy in play, it didn't want to cooperate so well. So out came the clamps and I have to quickly make some clamping cauls with a little bit of curve so there was also clamping pressure in the middle. This was where I was really happy with the decision I made - where I used my System Three epoxy with a 60 minute gel/set time instead of the 5 minute epoxy I bought specifically for this because I didn't want to wait for the longer set or cure times. At the last minute I made the decision to use the longer set stuff and I am very happy I did. This would've been a total loss, start over from the beginning with new materials thing if I had used the 5 minute epoxy. Plus it was warm and realistic working time would've been maybe 3 minutes - and it was a good 10 minutes to get the epoxy spread out well and ready to sandwich the pieces together.
It's flat across the depth of it. Once it's out of clamps I'm hoping it's still flat the length as well. Ideally it would be simply laying on the flat surface, weighed down. But that ended up not working out for me. So hopefully all worked out, because I don't want to have to start all over again.
I cut 3/4" MDF to width - two pieces. Cut three slots into each piece. Steel bars will go in each piece to stiffen up the top. Epoxy was applied to both pieces in a very thin coat with a little bit in the slots as well. The steel bars (3/4" x 1/8") were placed into the slots and then the two pieces are sandwiched together.
Ideally you would do this on the flattest surface you have and then put heavy stuff on top to weight it down while the epoxy sets. Unfortunately that didn't go so well for me. Everything went great in test fitting, but once I had the epoxy in play, it didn't want to cooperate so well. So out came the clamps and I have to quickly make some clamping cauls with a little bit of curve so there was also clamping pressure in the middle. This was where I was really happy with the decision I made - where I used my System Three epoxy with a 60 minute gel/set time instead of the 5 minute epoxy I bought specifically for this because I didn't want to wait for the longer set or cure times. At the last minute I made the decision to use the longer set stuff and I am very happy I did. This would've been a total loss, start over from the beginning with new materials thing if I had used the 5 minute epoxy. Plus it was warm and realistic working time would've been maybe 3 minutes - and it was a good 10 minutes to get the epoxy spread out well and ready to sandwich the pieces together.
It's flat across the depth of it. Once it's out of clamps I'm hoping it's still flat the length as well. Ideally it would be simply laying on the flat surface, weighed down. But that ended up not working out for me. So hopefully all worked out, because I don't want to have to start all over again.
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- #134
I also decided to go longer than the table that I'm replacing. I'm going for about 4' long - which is the width of the bench it's on. This will help support stock better. I will be trimming the edges out in some Ash. It will also have a 1/4" thick piece of hardboard for a sacrificial top.
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- #135
Spent a good chunk of time hanging out in the shop today. Some of it just relaxing - much needed. Some of working on the RAS. I'm on the home stretch with it. Today I got the table on and leveled, finished the wiring (and finally got to test run the motor), got a fence in place, and started adjusting it. I thought about going with Ash for the fence, as the trim on the table is ash, as is the back portion of the table, but the fence is an item that will likely be occasionally replaced as it gets chewed up with use with dado cuts, angle cuts, etc., so I just put a piece of pine in there for now. The sacrificial top is held in place with 6 screws, all out of reach of any position you could ever cut with the saw.
Just one last adjustment before I can put it to work. Setting the blade 90 degrees to the table.
Only one problem. I can't get it to adjust. I loosen the two screws, as the instructions say to for adjusting, and it won't budge.
So, yeah, trying to figure that out. I was getting quite frustrated with it, so I've decided to step back for a bit. I've also posted on OWWM.org seeking advice.
Just one last adjustment before I can put it to work. Setting the blade 90 degrees to the table.
Only one problem. I can't get it to adjust. I loosen the two screws, as the instructions say to for adjusting, and it won't budge.
So, yeah, trying to figure that out. I was getting quite frustrated with it, so I've decided to step back for a bit. I've also posted on OWWM.org seeking advice.
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- #136
Got my square to the table issue resolved! There is another cap screw where the motor pivots. The instructions didn't say to loosen it. And I had tried, to see if it would help. But I couldn't get it loose. After suggestion on the OWWM forum, I gave it another try and got that center one loose as well. That did the trick and I was able to square the blade up to the table!
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- #137
I knew it had been a good 2 or 3 weeks since I've had any real shop time, but coming back to my thread makes me realize that it's been a month! It's been a very busy month...
I've had to suddenly kick it into high gear in the shop. This Friday a friend is coming over and I'm going to help him build a TV stand with some reclaimed wood of some sorts. He's done some projects, but isn't really a woodworker, and doesn't have all the tools he needs to do what he wants to do.
So, after finally managing to find a few days to get away and go camping for a few nights, my shop had camping gear spread throughout. And lots of other things seemingly strewn about. So yesterday I spent time out there getting things organized and put away - though much of the gear is still in the garage, just more organized right now, as we leave in the not too distant future for a week long camping trip.
Today I got to make sawdust. My next project for the shop is to build an organizer to hold all my hardware bins/trays. Got started on that today with some 5/8" Baltic Birch plywood cutoffs I picked up for a good price that are exactly the right width for what I need. Put the RAS to work crosscutting some pieces to length and started cutting a whole bunch of dados. Hope to spend a little bit more time out there tonight to make some more progress. My goal is to have it done and filled before Friday, so there is some bench space to work. My next project after that will be a new outfeed table/bench for the table saw, since my current one is now the base for my RAS.
I've had to suddenly kick it into high gear in the shop. This Friday a friend is coming over and I'm going to help him build a TV stand with some reclaimed wood of some sorts. He's done some projects, but isn't really a woodworker, and doesn't have all the tools he needs to do what he wants to do.
So, after finally managing to find a few days to get away and go camping for a few nights, my shop had camping gear spread throughout. And lots of other things seemingly strewn about. So yesterday I spent time out there getting things organized and put away - though much of the gear is still in the garage, just more organized right now, as we leave in the not too distant future for a week long camping trip.
Today I got to make sawdust. My next project for the shop is to build an organizer to hold all my hardware bins/trays. Got started on that today with some 5/8" Baltic Birch plywood cutoffs I picked up for a good price that are exactly the right width for what I need. Put the RAS to work crosscutting some pieces to length and started cutting a whole bunch of dados. Hope to spend a little bit more time out there tonight to make some more progress. My goal is to have it done and filled before Friday, so there is some bench space to work. My next project after that will be a new outfeed table/bench for the table saw, since my current one is now the base for my RAS.
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- #139
I was not going to post pics of the mess of camping gear and everything else everywhere! 
I did get into the shop for a while last night. I'll get a picture later of where I'm at with the hardware organizer. I plan to get back out there tonight and finish it up. Well, probably won't build the two drawers for it tonight, but it should otherwise get finished up tonight.
I did get into the shop for a while last night. I'll get a picture later of where I'm at with the hardware organizer. I plan to get back out there tonight and finish it up. Well, probably won't build the two drawers for it tonight, but it should otherwise get finished up tonight.
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- #140
Ok, pics now, lol.
Cutting dados. Using the RAS for this kind of crosscut dados, especially having to do many, is far easier than trying to do it with the table saw or with a router and jig.
Here is 2/3 of it. There is another piece that will be added to the side - the plywood pieces I had weren't long enough to make it all as one piece. This is some 5/8" Baltic Birch plywood cutoffs that I had picked up for a good price. The pieces have been cut for the other section and I plan to assemble it later, attach a back and leveling feet, then I can put it in place and load it up.
And to show how the bins will sit in. Each section is sized to hold either one of the larger containers or two of the smaller containers, which allows me to arrange the containers however I want for what is best for my use. Most often used hardware bins will be located toward the top, seldom used bins toward the bottom. This will end up situated underneath the wall mounted bench I previously built.
Cutting dados. Using the RAS for this kind of crosscut dados, especially having to do many, is far easier than trying to do it with the table saw or with a router and jig.
Here is 2/3 of it. There is another piece that will be added to the side - the plywood pieces I had weren't long enough to make it all as one piece. This is some 5/8" Baltic Birch plywood cutoffs that I had picked up for a good price. The pieces have been cut for the other section and I plan to assemble it later, attach a back and leveling feet, then I can put it in place and load it up.
And to show how the bins will sit in. Each section is sized to hold either one of the larger containers or two of the smaller containers, which allows me to arrange the containers however I want for what is best for my use. Most often used hardware bins will be located toward the top, seldom used bins toward the bottom. This will end up situated underneath the wall mounted bench I previously built.
