- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #21
cody we waited for you but your addiction to west side steel is encumbering your ability to make good decisions
starting another jumbo hollow form
- Thread starter woodintyuuu
- Start date
cody we waited for you but your addiction to west side steel is encumbering your ability to make good decisions
You're absolutely right.... I need some Huron water and sunrises over the lake instead of into to help clear that.
Oh crap! My buddies from Indy just pulled in!!! Gotta roll the boats leaving!!
This looks awesome!!
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #25
alright so the next series of pictures is from after lunch , and takes the form from rough to semi -shaped, final shape will be made after the pc is remounted to the lathe by faceplate, which is where this group of picts ends
now most flat spots are gone and we start to think about faceplate application
starting rounding of bottom for flat faceplate , i am finding the spot where the plate can be on a level flat place
i have made a flatspot (not to be confused with wet spot) and am carving off the excess tenon with an arbortech prior to fitting the faceplate
Now we can clearly see the circle of wood around the faceplate, i am trying hard to center it by eye as close as possible, that is why i cut the flat area approx 1/4 inch bigger than the plate - it is easier to judge- i have not measured anything at this point and will probably only measure for depth and thickness of hollowing from here.
I am fastening the faceplate to the pc . I use a comination of hex headed self tapping screws 3 inch long and some mcfeelys square drivers 3 inch long they are backed out halfway and superglue is applied to screw and driven back home again.
hope you enjoy the thread and i will post more picts when i start to work more.
This whole thread used up about 5 hrs now of my time and 2 hrs of danny help to make sure the pc wasnt gonna come off and hit me.
now most flat spots are gone and we start to think about faceplate application
starting rounding of bottom for flat faceplate , i am finding the spot where the plate can be on a level flat place
i have made a flatspot (not to be confused with wet spot) and am carving off the excess tenon with an arbortech prior to fitting the faceplate
Now we can clearly see the circle of wood around the faceplate, i am trying hard to center it by eye as close as possible, that is why i cut the flat area approx 1/4 inch bigger than the plate - it is easier to judge- i have not measured anything at this point and will probably only measure for depth and thickness of hollowing from here.
I am fastening the faceplate to the pc . I use a comination of hex headed self tapping screws 3 inch long and some mcfeelys square drivers 3 inch long they are backed out halfway and superglue is applied to screw and driven back home again.
hope you enjoy the thread and i will post more picts when i start to work more.
This whole thread used up about 5 hrs now of my time and 2 hrs of danny help to make sure the pc wasnt gonna come off and hit me.
Last edited:
Looking great Cliff!
Same case as a 6400 great saw. Those big Dolmars can devour some wood.
Great thread, Cliff! I love watching the masters! Say, when are you going to come down south for a demo?
You got it, Cliff! You bring the burls and I'll bring the beers!
Amazing 
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #36
okay here is what went down here in the shop today untill lunch then nap!
the pc is now mounted on a different lathe that accepts the faceplate we like, 1923 oliver from gm tech plant , modernized a bit , complete with homemade plywood pulleys.
ad the final sorta form is made you can see i have left a rather large area unturned to shape , this is on purpose and serves to dampen vibration during the hollowing phase. It will be turned to shape
after the bulk of the pcs is hollow, we just have to bear that in mind .
next you se the steady rest , it is quite stout, and on the really large pcs there are two pcs mirror in design which sandwich the arms of the steady. on large pcs we use 9 arms, on a small one like this one we only need 4 or 5 as you can see
for all you nomenclature nuts yes they are aircraft flap follower bearings, bout 150 $ apeice, but luck for me there is maintainance facility some buds work at and well you know . Oh setting up the steady is a little fussy, if all the arms are not exact right the will cause a catch and that is not good about a thousand pounds of stuff on the lathe spinning now!!!
the last picture is of the forstner bit with the beginning of the drilling process starting with only the chuck The forstner bit is a full 4 inch bit and is serious torque there.
now i am getting ome of the material out of the neck section , this is the most intense section as i am very close to the steady rest and a large pc of spinning wood, the lathe is wagging round a little also through the intermittent cuts
WHEW!
in the previous photo actually two back you can see where the steady has found its orbit with the continual black mark around. That area is also left about an inch proud of neck to absorb the bruising of the bearings and will turn off later. the neck is left very thick as it has a lot riding on it and will be dealt with later. These larger pcs demand a lot of thought and are methodical in the approach. oops ruins about 3000 dollar pc of wood, that we dont want.
homemade drill extensions this one will take us down to 22 inches . we will stop there for the night as danny is whining pretty hard!!!
this is how the pc will look until monday when we get back at it. It is wrapped because it will warp or worse crack if left in open
the pc is now mounted on a different lathe that accepts the faceplate we like, 1923 oliver from gm tech plant , modernized a bit , complete with homemade plywood pulleys.
ad the final sorta form is made you can see i have left a rather large area unturned to shape , this is on purpose and serves to dampen vibration during the hollowing phase. It will be turned to shape
after the bulk of the pcs is hollow, we just have to bear that in mind .
next you se the steady rest , it is quite stout, and on the really large pcs there are two pcs mirror in design which sandwich the arms of the steady. on large pcs we use 9 arms, on a small one like this one we only need 4 or 5 as you can see
for all you nomenclature nuts yes they are aircraft flap follower bearings, bout 150 $ apeice, but luck for me there is maintainance facility some buds work at and well you know . Oh setting up the steady is a little fussy, if all the arms are not exact right the will cause a catch and that is not good about a thousand pounds of stuff on the lathe spinning now!!!
the last picture is of the forstner bit with the beginning of the drilling process starting with only the chuck The forstner bit is a full 4 inch bit and is serious torque there.
now i am getting ome of the material out of the neck section , this is the most intense section as i am very close to the steady rest and a large pc of spinning wood, the lathe is wagging round a little also through the intermittent cuts
WHEW!
in the previous photo actually two back you can see where the steady has found its orbit with the continual black mark around. That area is also left about an inch proud of neck to absorb the bruising of the bearings and will turn off later. the neck is left very thick as it has a lot riding on it and will be dealt with later. These larger pcs demand a lot of thought and are methodical in the approach. oops ruins about 3000 dollar pc of wood, that we dont want.
homemade drill extensions this one will take us down to 22 inches . we will stop there for the night as danny is whining pretty hard!!!
this is how the pc will look until monday when we get back at it. It is wrapped because it will warp or worse crack if left in open
It hardly seems worth doing a build thread for such a small piece like this!
What are those risers made from? Love the steady rest. Is that 1/2" plate?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
3/4 thick by 4 " wide
That is a serious steady rest. Are those risers 2 solid blocks of steel?