What did you do in your shop today?

After spending all morning trying to straighten out my Mom's health insurance on a government web site and getting a year's worth of frustration, I needed to do something constructive. Jerry ( @Nubsnstubs ) sent me a piece of unknown vine he found growing up the side of a tree in the desert. I stabilized it and sanded the end and put a thin coat of WoP on it... it has a cool star shape cross section. Might be a nice addition to the chrysanthemum vine Byron sent.
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Then I prepped a couple box lid panels. No specific plan for them yet. Two are cross sections of that pine log Byron sent to Phil (Phil was nice enough to send me two slices). One is chocolate myrtle from Gary Schuler and one is a thin slice of that aspen stump I dug out earlier this year.
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Since the subject of shop dust fires due to static electricity in ductwork, I decided to do a little searching. I came upon this article by MIT scientist Rob Cole who is a woodworker and scientist.

www.finewoodworking.com

PVC Pipe Dangers Debunked - FineWoodworking

Home-shop dust collection is a controversial topic, primiarily because of the safety of PVC pipe in this application. Some claim that sparks in PVC pipe due to static electricity may ignite the dust cloud in the pipe. Others speak up for grounding the pipe, thus ensuring safety. Rod Cole...
www.finewoodworking.com www.finewoodworking.com

Turns out the risk for fire is unlikely. He couldn’t find documented cases. Conditions are wrong. Air is moving and dust isn’t suspended, wrong dust concentration, and big enough spark cannot be generated. We all know that nothing is impossible but my money goes in favor of what came out of MIT.

The risk of fire comes from a piece of metal (ex: screw or nail) getting sucked up and striking a metal impeller which can cause a mechanical spark and smolder in the collection bin. That is why the bins should be metal. Now I wonder about that felt bag on my old DC.

There is justification for grounding the PVC pipes and that is to prevent startling someone working with a tool.

Go figure…..
 
Today I finally went onto my lathe and made something. Seven Mesquite "Hats" as the game warden would call them. They fit into a G3 Chuck set at 2 1/4" and are for turning Cholla.
I just realized they could be used in removing tenons on any small hollow forms if you didn't have a set up for it. Gotta give it a try soon and when I do, I'll post it. I've been using these for about 10-12 years now and don't have any problems other than using a Cholla piece that might be too short or too thin with a hidden crack that will cause it to launch.
This first picture is on my saw top. It wasn't supposed to rain until today, but at midnight it rained enough that it woke me. All I could do was remove my fence as that it too important let it get wet. I also had to get my miter saw under cover by carrying it into my turning room. Don't want that to get too wet either. Thank goodness for that "old man syndrome" that woke me up. No real damages that I know of.
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............ Nubs
 
Haven't worked a piece of wood in almost 8 months, so when I got rained out from other work this afternoon, grabbed a piece of cherry and threw it on the lathe to see if I still remembered how.

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Still working on getting the DC ductwork done. Finished the down tubes. Dust gates are next. Trying to figure out how to anchor the down tubes securely to the wall.

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Webb said:
Still working on getting the DC ductwork done. Finished the down tubes. Dust gates are next. Trying to figure out how to anchor the down tubes securely to the wall.

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I'd probably use some preformed hanger strap if you can find them as large as you need. Of course the other issue is what they are screwing into- wallboard, plywood?

If you don't have a good substrate for anchoring, an option would be to add horizontal boards between each duct, screwed to studs. Not a lot of work to do that, would also be additional places to hang things if so desired.

This is a picture of a 3", don't know if larger are available, or how large they make them

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Not sure I want to put ducting directly against the wall. I’m thinking of glueing up a “U” shaped long box and cutting slices like you slice French bread so the ductwork is nested in the channel. And put a channel across the back so I can use a big cable tie. I’ve got a ton of walnut so the mounts can be “purdy”.

Here’s a cross section of what I’m thinking of. Since it’s drywall, probably 4 anchors on each mount.

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John - what are the advantages / differences between those bigger dust collection bins and a plain old shop vac like the Rigid I see in your first photo? I only have a shop vac and typically just clean up the tools and drive way after the day is done.
 
DLJeffs said:
John - what are the advantages / differences between those bigger dust collection bins and a plain old shop vac like the Rigid I see in your first photo? I only have a shop vac and typically just clean up the tools and drive way after the day is done.
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Airborne contamination and dust isn’t as big of an issue when working outdoors vs in an enclosed space. Biggest advantage/difference over a shop vac is the amount of air it moves with the 4” hose measured in cubic feet per minute, CFM. Most full size machines have a 4” hose connection to collect at the point of origin. Also use this versatile collector at the lathe when sanding to collect the vast majority of airborne fine particulates and of course the sanding dust. An air filtration system is also running.

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Also, are those dust collector motors made for more continuous running - vs a shop ac is more for short duration, intermediate running? I've waffled on a mobile dust collector like those you pictured but like you said, I work outside so it seems like maybe not a good investment for my situation. I had one of those air filtration things but gave it to my guitar coach when he moved his shop into his garage. Maybe I should have kept it.
 
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I worked on two FS45 Stihl string trimmers. The gas cap on one had a bad seal. Lacked a replacement so used an o-ring. The primer was not working on one trimmer 2 months ago, but seemed to finally prime today. Adjusted the carb and seems good. The other unit, had a bad kill switch. Replaced it and adjusted the carb.

I then started on a BR400 blower. Recalled it being out of time when I put it away May 2025. Broke it down to find the fly wheel key sheared. Then realized True Value closed in 5 minutes. So hope they have one in stock tomorrow. Air box cast is broke too. Cross that bridge later as well.
 
Finished up the bowl. Not a full basket illusion, just a 5 bead band/accent for the bowl. Still working on the design, but will probably come up with something in the next day or two.

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I bought a driftwood key for the BR blower. Took 20 minutes to down size it to fit. Machine just back-fired, no run. So, next, some more reading, watching and trying.
 
trc65 said:
Finished up the bowl. Not a full basket illusion, just a 5 bead band/accent for the bowl. Still working on the design, but will probably come up with something in the next day or two.

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Thats nice, I want to either buy or make a beading tool. On this piece I almost think there are to many beads, sometimes less is more for an accent. But thats just my opinion. Everyone's eye and taste are different. But you sir are the master at beading.
 
Nature Man said:
What is a driftwood key? What is a BR blower? Gas powered?
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A driftwood key is a half moon shape, versus a square key used in many key-ways, like that holding drive pulleys in place like on a drill press and other belt drive tools. The driftwood key fits in a coved recess versus a straight trough.


The BR blower is a gas powered Stihl unit. They were some of the best blowers every made by Stihl because they were made with replaceable parts. Now there units are more along the line of disposable. I have a few, BR 380, 400 and 420 models. I was trying to revive an older unit that up and quit. It would back fire but not run, a common symptom of a sheared keyway. I replaced the key, but no luck, still back fires. So a timing issue is likely.
 
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