Looks like the Kenmore Freezer I just bought. Looks great. Up here we would have had twice as many roof trusses. Did you use open cell or closed cell foam? Is that sprayed onto the backside of exterior metal paneling?
What did you do in your shop today?
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The high ceilings are awesome!
That is my homemade kiln I built this past fall. Our old freezer died, so I converted it to a kiln. It works remarkably well. It was a whirlpool brand.
As far as my insulation goes, it's closed cell and is 2" thick on all of the walls and ceiling. And yes, it is sprayed directly on the metal. We hardly ever get any measurable snow, so we don't have to beef up our trusses quite as much.
Thank you. It keeps the space feeling much bigger than it is. I still have my little 12x12 hunting/man cave room to finish, but I'm getting closer to being done with it. Basically a spot to shove all of my hunting equipment and clothes in a controlled environment. I'm still toying with the idea of bolting my gun safe to the slab in the shop too.
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I picked up a slow speed grinder and sharpening jig last week. Spent some time this morning putting it together and figuring out where/how to mount the grinder. Need to get a few bolts and should be able to finish it.
Needs to get warmer to be able to spend more time out there.
Needs to get warmer to be able to spend more time out there.
Interesting kiln idea!
Tell us more.....mainly heat source and venting.
It's post 8398 in this thread. It was very easy to make. If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.
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What an outstanding new shop for you! Bet you are ready to rock & roll! Chuck
Found it!
Just a 100w bulb and exhaust fan.....simple enough!
Any idea how long it takes to dry a piece such as bowl blanks?
I had some green pecan blanks in my kiln with moisture up to 30ish percent. I think they have been in there about 2 months. I couldn't even get a reading on them today because it was so low. I've never really put a clock on them so to speak, but much much faster than air drying. My pot call blanks that are cut green usually dry in about 2 weeks.
Finished hollowing the log, then made a bottom and a lid and a backer board from an old juniper board I've had for quite awhile. Put about an inch and half of wood shavings in the bottom. Then figured out which tree to put it in and put it up. Just the right size for chickadees, nuthatches, might be a tad small for flycatchers but maybe. Hopefully this spring I'll be able to post a photo of the parents going in and out.
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Thanks all. This is a shot of a chickadee peering out from the other nest box I made a couple years ago. They seem to like this design.
So, why did you hollow the entire length? Seems to me more work being then you have to make a bottom. Or do you like having a bottom to readily pull for cleaning?
Wow, can you provide me the details of the insulation. Trying to figure out what to do in my shop.
Sorry Trey, saw that you already answered this question...after I posted this. Moderators, delete if you want. Thanks for the info; that is what I thought it was.
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No worries! I would highly recommend getting your new shop sprayed if you can.
It keeps my shop around 80 in the summer and 40 in the winter, even with no heat/cooling running. If I turn on the AC unit, it'll keep it 70 in the summer. It was almost 55 inside the shop the other day with the outside temps around 20.
Talk with several contractors and installers. As for spray foam, most pay the few extra bucks for the fire retardant in shop settings. Runs an extra $1,000 for a 20 x 40 building here. If you have termites or carpenter ants, about $500 extra for the same size building to do the bottom few feet of the sides. A lot of guys use open cell on the ceilings / roof, so if a leak happens (branch), it comes through versus being sheeted elsewhere and hidden allowing more damage. Closed cell is good, but both reflects and carries sound. Open cell on the walls does reduce sound.
As for application, if you spray it onto the metal, the metal can not breath and can bake the paint after a few summers. Secondly, the wood framing has different R-value than the foam and will react differently to heat and cool cycles. Thirdly, if an external metal panel is damaged, a bit harder to repair. Often easier to buy a new sheet and place over the damaged one. Here, pole barns often get furring strips run between the framing with 2 by material added for stiffness. Then R-board or other backing is used as a medium, then top coated with spray foam. The walls are vented to the roof and the roof vented to the ridge. Adds a lot of work, that is why many pole barns are sheeted with OSB then capped with metal sheeting. The OSB is a buffer between the framing and the metal and a buffer to the foam. It gives plenty of structural support and additional backing for electrical placement. My favorite is having a solid (mostly solid) for every sheet metal screw to hit and knowing there is bit of something every where if needing to add anchors.
I could go on but more important to find out how things are done in your area. I'd think about R 20-27 for walls and R 40+ for ceilings.
Actually, it was hard trying to drill the spade bit the full length. The log is about 10 inches long. So I drilled from both ends and then used a chisel to remove the waste, etc. Then I drilled all the way through which made using the chisel to remove the rest pretty easy, since I'm cutting with the grain. It does make it easy to clean the nest if you can remove the bottom or top easily.
I might recommend an auger bit. Particularly a higher grade ship auger. Find them at electrical places. (And cheaper at harbor freight sometimes) .
Anyway, these auger bits come in longer lengths and decent diameters while pulling themselves through the wood.
Spade bits are the absolute most difficult bits to use on endgrain drilling except maybe a cheap forster bit.
I saved another log and I do have my Dad's old set of auger bits. Maybe I'll try those on the next one. That spade bit caught a few times, either throwing the log around or yanking my drill out of my hand.
Lock the log to a support with a couple ratchet straps? Support can be anything from a bench to a tree. Just so as the straps lock solidly