What did you do in your shop today?

Got a nice shape going on that piece.

I've only done small resin pieces, all under 2-3". One thing somebody mentioned to me was even though it was "cured" and felt hard when un-molded, if I gave it a couple of weeks to fully harden, it would work and polish better. Would be resin dependant I'd guess, but if it is fresh from the mold, might harden some more with time?

Agree on the cost and mess. I enjoyed playing with it and various dyes/sparkles combinations, but can't justify the cost as I don't sell anything.

Those guys on YouTube are either very wealthy, or more likely are getting free/discounted resin for promotion.
 
trc65 said:
Got a nice shape going on that piece.

I've only done small resin pieces, all under 2-3". One thing somebody mentioned to me was even though it was "cured" and felt hard when un-molded, if I gave it a couple of weeks to fully harden, it would work and polish better. Would be resin dependant I'd guess, but if it is fresh from the mold, might harden some more with time?

Agree on the cost and mess. I enjoyed playing with it and various dyes/sparkles combinations, but can't justify the cost as I don't sell anything.

Those guys on YouTube are either very wealthy, or more likely are getting free/discounted resin for promotion.
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Yeah, Tim, I’m sure many of the YouTubers are sponsored.

I let this sit about a month hoping the second pour would harden more, but no. I’m pretty sure it was my failure to mix properly. This stuff is really chippy and I was having trouble with traditional tools so switched to the Easy Wood Rougher. Without very light cuts large chunks of sharp, hardened plastic wind up bouncing off your face mask.
 
The one thing I'm actually allergic to... going to make a bit of these for the show next month. Last time they sold well. Need to get a different species of tree though. These are from a Siberian Elm Branch.

Any ideas? Thinner stems? bigger hoods/caps? Thinner Caps? I don't think there is a standard for mushroom artwork?

Mushrooms 1a.webp

Mushrooms 1b.webp
 
JonLanier said:
The one thing I'm actually allergic to... going to make a bit of these for the show next month. Last time they sold well. Need to get a different species of tree though. These are from a Siberian Elm Branch.

Any ideas? Thinner stems? bigger hoods/caps? Thinner Caps? I don't think there is a standard for mushroom artwork?

View attachment 260926

View attachment 260927
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I like them. From where I’m sitting I might taper the stems “a bit” more towards where they taper into the cap. Leave the base as-is. Dimensionally they look good. 👍
 
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Nice looking shrooms!

They are nicely balanced height/width, but I'd like the stems thinned a little, but just personal preference. Rather than try to make them all similar, vary them. Some thin stems some fat. Shallow caps and tall ones. Tall and skinny, short and fat, tall and fat, short and skinny. This is one project where varying one characteristic can emote varying "attitudes".

I'd also use as many different woods as possible. The more variation you have, the longer people will browse trying to find just the right combination. Will also attract attention much more than if they are all very similar. When I see a table full of things that are all very similar, I might glance at it quickly and move on. With lots of variation, I'll spend time looking at all of them to find the one I think is most interesting.
 
trc65 said:
Nice looking shrooms!

They are nicely balanced height/width, but I'd like the stems thinned a little, but just personal preference. Rather than try to make them all similar, vary them. Some thin stems some fat. Shallow caps and tall ones. Tall and skinny, short and fat, tall and fat, short and skinny. This is one project where varying one characteristic can emote varying "attitudes".

I'd also use as many different woods as possible. The more variation you have, the longer people will browse trying to find just the right combination. Will also attract attention much more than if they are all very similar. When I see a table full of things that are all very similar, I might glance at it quickly and move on. With lots of variation, I'll spend time looking at all of them to find the one I think is most interesting.
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Thank you... very good thoughts. I'm going to attempt to implement those ideas.
 
Doesn’t look like much change from yesterday but I played with the shape some and tried to expose more of the burl, so smaller in diameter.

You can see where it has chipped out some around the equator and the whiteish bit on the neck is the last of that rubbery section from the bad pour.

IMG_0253.webp

And started hollowing.

IMG_0254.webp

This is about all the burl I’ll get exposed without significant chopping.

IMG_0255.webp
 
Tom Smart said:
Doesn’t look like much change from yesterday but I played with the shape some and tried to expose more of the burl, so smaller in diameter.

You can see where it has chipped out some around the equator and the whiteish bit on the neck is the last of that rubbery section from the bad pour.

View attachment 260942

And started hollowing.

View attachment 260943

This is about all the burl I’ll get exposed without significant chopping.

View attachment 260944
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What is this amazing looking piece and the shape and color combination reminds me of Ancient Greek pottery vessels- the black and with burl formation peeking through is almost like it was buried in volcanic ash and unearthed. Can’t wait to see this finish.
 
I'm still prototyping the little cross necklaces I've been making.
I fitted one with a waxed cotton cord. And I have some small zip lock bags I'll put them in to take to church so the don't get all tangled up.
20240824_120821.jpg
Theyll be easier to display like this.
20240824_120929.jpg
Then i have a bunch of 3/8" scraps from the large crosses. This needs to be reduced in thickness to 1/4" on the drum sander. Safest and easiest way to do it.
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Started at 3/8"
20240824_133428.jpg finished at 1/4" 20240824_142810.jpg
Yielded a nice box of blanks.
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Then I changed the paper on the mop sander. Trying some 180 grit paper this time and some 4" plastic stiffeners. It was a little too floppy last time.
20240824_153748.jpg
Using the little machinist vice makes it easier to change. 4" stiffiners are on the top and bottom.
20240824_154525.jpg
This sanding mop works really well for sanding the crosses. A definite time saver.
 
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Then I cleaned up the shop a little, just sucked up saw dust. Ran a couple Mesquite boards through the drum sander to reduce the thickness, and traced out a few patterns. Dumped the big psi dust collector drum.
Now I'm outside with a glass of ice tea and taking care of some of my scrap wood problem.
A lot of this was from cleaning out the garage and the scraps from the window project.
20240824_170908.webp 20240824_170913.webp
 
I wire brushed and repainted the house number sign and its post. It's a wood oval about 20X9 inches with the numbers carved into relief. Mounted on a short 4X4 pressure treated post. I didn't make it but like it and don't want it to crack up so I keep it painted. And that pretty much completes the house painting summer - house, outside lights and number sign all new paint.
 
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William Tanner said:
Doing me best to get motivated again. Painting Washington’s current German smoker today and tomorrow. Having difficulty seeing. Appointment for cataract surgery October 23rd.

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Bill, I have cataract surgery in 2 days for the left eye and a week later for the right. I’m hoping to ditch the glasses I’ve been wearing since a teenager.

Good luck with your procedure.
 
Good luck guys! I had the procedure in late spring and it has completely changed my vision for the better. I've worn glasses since I was with very near-sighted vision. Now is 20/20. I was nervous but it worked out very well. I'm sure that it will for you as well@
 
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