What did you do in your shop today?

Here is the white cast pulley on my Delta belt sander. It had the set screw on the outside when I got it. I flipped it around hoping having the extra weight inside is more 'betterer'. Wondering if I should have found a shorter set screw?

1755435375081.jpeg

Here is the rake. They had tried welding the ferule to the tempered head on the good handle. Not sure what happened to the head. Took the ferule and head from the broken handle and put on the good handle. See the black tape? That is where the pin nail was to hold the rake head. So only a short piece of tang was in the handle. The hole was already there, so I slid the tang into the shoulder of the head and pinned it there. This transfers torque back another 1.5" into the handle.

1755435892298.jpeg

The tape was to plug the old pin nail hole. I added the Pergo glue before inserting the tang and then topped it off to fill voids. Topped it off again this morning after taking the picture.

1755436128900.jpeg

The left front inner tube on the rider walked overnight. Valve stem was almost in the rim. Broke tire down and spun to re-align valve stem. Re-mounted. Asking $850 for the 17HP Kohler craftsman, 42" cut, brand new $650 deck. Is that a fair asking price? The 48" Exmark was the engine swap. Had to reset deck pulleys too. The center pully had a twisted key and was 1/2" low. It comes with 3 sets of blades, new spare drive belts and a sulky. Hope $500 is fair.

1755436201462.jpeg

Today is the day of rest. Not sure what the rest of the list looks like....
 
Last edited:
Here is the white cast pulley on my Delta belt sander. It had the set screw on the outside when I got it. I flipped it around hoping having the extra weight inside is more 'betterer'. Wondering if I should have found a shorter set screw?

View attachment 277665

Here is the rake. They had tried welding the ferule to the tempered head on the good handle. Not sure what happened to the head. Took the ferule and head from the broken handle and put on the good handle. See the black tape? That is where the pin nail was to hold the rake head. So only a short piece of tang was in the handle. The hole was already there, so I slid the tang into the shoulder of the head and pinned it there. This transfers torque back another 1.5" into the handle.

View attachment 277666

The tape was to plug the old pin nail hole. I added the Pergo glue before inserting the tang and then topped it off to fill voids. Topped it off again this morning after taking the picture.

View attachment 277667

The left front inner tube on the rider walked overnight. Valve stem was almost in the rim. Broke tire down and spun to re-align valve stem. Re-mounted. Asking $850 for the 17HP Kohler craftsman, 42" cut, brand new $650 deck. Is that a fair asking price? The 48" Exmark was the engine swap. Had to reset deck pulleys too. The center pully had a twisted key and was 1/2" low. It comes with 3 sets of blades, new spare drive belts and a sulky. Hope $500 is fair.

View attachment 277668

Today is the day of rest. Not sure what the rest of the list looks like....
I think you've got a decent price on both mowers. The rider would sell quickly around here, especially with the bagger.

The Exmark would be more of a niche market (in my area) but that's a quality brand and would sell.
 
Not the formal shop but the garage and I finally got back on the Cherokee rear spring job. After getting the passenger front spring bolt out I knew I needed to chase the threads. Of course it’s an odd size so have to order. Finally get it and sure enough it is tough to get started which is what I am afraid of. I don’t want to cross thread the tap…..and really mess me up. Although tough, and I couldn’t use a tap handle, I got it going, applied a little cutting oil and it feels as though I am good. Take it out and run the bolt back and forth about 5 times and it feels good, even using my electric impact.

something else had me concerned about getting this job finished: how do you stretch leaf springs 3 inches. Okay, they are arched, but can they really be flattened, as in preload? Well, started looking and it appears the rear shackle is not welded, but bolted in. Once again get the big breaker bar and yes, both sides come loose and rotate. Well, have a little hope now……I get passenger side front in and them come back to driver side, start jacking the driver side of the axle and spring up and it starts to line up with the rear shackle that is rotated forward. Get the bolt in and go to passenger side and success, both rear bolts started. I am one happy dude…….until I start to assemble u-bolts around axle and discover they are too short given the extra leaves. Totally bummed.

But overall successful. I need some help getting shackles rotated back into place and tightened enough to hold. So far can’t get enough umph on them to hold them. I may have to disassemble, clean and reinstall. That’s okay, i know I can get everything back together.

But darn, I have turning projects on the lathe…….old spring on the right has definitely lost some arch!!

IMG_9210.webp

IMG_9214.webp
 
Not the formal shop but the garage and I finally got back on the Cherokee rear spring job. After getting the passenger front spring bolt out I knew I needed to chase the threads. Of course it’s an odd size so have to order. Finally get it and sure enough it is tough to get started which is what I am afraid of. I don’t want to cross thread the tap…..and really mess me up. Although tough, and I couldn’t use a tap handle, I got it going, applied a little cutting oil and it feels as though I am good. Take it out and run the bolt back and forth about 5 times and it feels good, even using my electric impact.

something else had me concerned about getting this job finished: how do you stretch leaf springs 3 inches. Okay, they are arched, but can they really be flattened, as in preload? Well, started looking and it appears the rear shackle is not welded, but bolted in. Once again get the big breaker bar and yes, both sides come loose and rotate. Well, have a little hope now……I get passenger side front in and them come back to driver side, start jacking the driver side of the axle and spring up and it starts to line up with the rear shackle that is rotated forward. Get the bolt in and go to passenger side and success, both rear bolts started. I am one happy dude…….until I start to assemble u-bolts around axle and discover they are too short given the extra leaves. Totally bummed.

But overall successful. I need some help getting shackles rotated back into place and tightened enough to hold. So far can’t get enough umph on them to hold them. I may have to disassemble, clean and reinstall. That’s okay, i know I can get everything back together.

But darn, I have turning projects on the lathe…….old spring on the right has definitely lost some arch!!

View attachment 277756

View attachment 277757
Where is all of the rust? Going from a 4 pack to a 6 pack will stiffen things up. (assuming similar spring density and ratings)
 
Not the formal shop but the garage and I finally got back on the Cherokee rear spring job. After getting the passenger front spring bolt out I knew I needed to chase the threads. Of course it’s an odd size so have to order. Finally get it and sure enough it is tough to get started which is what I am afraid of. I don’t want to cross thread the tap…..and really mess me up. Although tough, and I couldn’t use a tap handle, I got it going, applied a little cutting oil and it feels as though I am good. Take it out and run the bolt back and forth about 5 times and it feels good, even using my electric impact.

something else had me concerned about getting this job finished: how do you stretch leaf springs 3 inches. Okay, they are arched, but can they really be flattened, as in preload? Well, started looking and it appears the rear shackle is not welded, but bolted in. Once again get the big breaker bar and yes, both sides come loose and rotate. Well, have a little hope now……I get passenger side front in and them come back to driver side, start jacking the driver side of the axle and spring up and it starts to line up with the rear shackle that is rotated forward. Get the bolt in and go to passenger side and success, both rear bolts started. I am one happy dude…….until I start to assemble u-bolts around axle and discover they are too short given the extra leaves. Totally bummed.

But overall successful. I need some help getting shackles rotated back into place and tightened enough to hold. So far can’t get enough umph on them to hold them. I may have to disassemble, clean and reinstall. That’s okay, i know I can get everything back together.

But darn, I have turning projects on the lathe…….old spring on the right has definitely lost some arch!!

View attachment 277756

View attachment 277757
nice upgrade
 
Where is all of the rust? Going from a 4 pack to a 6 pack will stiffen things up. (assuming similar spring density and ratings)
If I had taken a picture of the u-bolt hold down plate and really looked at the spring bolts you would see some. But @Nubsnstubs Jerry is right, minimum rust anywhere on this vehicle. One of the reasons I bought it and could buy it out here. The climate makes that big of difference.
 
If I had taken a picture of the u-bolt hold down plate and really looked at the spring bolts you would see some. But @Nubsnstubs Jerry is right, minimum rust anywhere on this vehicle. One of the reasons I bought it and could buy it out here. The climate makes that big of difference.
You're right, but that little bit of rust could possibly be wiped off easier than you know what.. :sofa: :lol2:. ............ Nubs
 
What is this rust stuff you speak of?

We're truly blessed in the southern & western states in regards to vehicle rust. I see cars on the road up north that I can see thru!
 
What is this rust stuff you speak of?

We're truly blessed in the southern & western states in regards to vehicle rust. I see cars on the road up north that I can see thru!
I was joking about the rust being we have it. There is this collusion of government and vehicle makers. Many northern states force you to limit rust on vehicles to pass state inspections. Vehicles fail and cost so much to repair many just buy new. Government dumps millions of tons of salt and calcium bromide on our roads and in our streams, but that is ok..... If they went back to cinders and sand, vehicles would last at least twice as long and our amphibian populations might turn around. However, that would limit political kickback and pocket lining for those in control.
 
What is this rust stuff you speak of?

We're truly blessed in the southern & western states in regards to vehicle rust. I see cars on the road up north that I can see thru!
If i would have said what the wiped stuff is, this reply wouldn't have made the censors. ........... Nubs
 
Warning: not in the shop….but, remember the days when you could find a shop to arch springs and such? Well, found one, not that I need brand new springs at the moment, but they also build u-bolts Got a brand new set while I waited…barely had a chance to sit down. Wasn’t even expecting them today but the guy said it’ll be just a moment. And it was. And not much more expensive than the 4 Wheel Parts price.

I have also decided to disassemble the rear shackle and try to clean up the rust so I can get a good grip and get things lined up like they should be.
 
Warning: not in the shop….but, remember the days when you could find a shop to arch springs and such? Well, found one, not that I need brand new springs at the moment, but they also build u-bolts Got a brand new set while I waited…barely had a chance to sit down. Wasn’t even expecting them today but the guy said it’ll be just a moment. And it was. And not much more expensive than the 4 Wheel Parts price.

I have also decided to disassemble the rear shackle and try to clean up the rust so I can get a good grip and get things lined up like they should be.
Remember now, a light wipe. ............ Nubs
 
Haven't touched a piece of wood since I finished the last basket illusion, so took a little time this afternoon and roughed out this cherry bowl. Would have preferred some black locust for the design I'm doing, but don't have any blanks large enough. This design needs as many rows as possible to get the spacing right and is 12" diameter. The rough out is about 3/4 dry already, cut the tree about 2 years ago and the blank about 6 months ago. Should be dry in about a month with minimal distortion.

Definitely need to get a few trees cut down this fall and rough a bunch of blanks so I can just grab one and go at it when I get the urge for another basket. I'm not out of wood by any means, but it is nice to have a large variety to choose from.

PXL_20250822_043400930.webp
 
Recovering from hernia surgery (last Tuesday) but feeling pretty good now and went back in the shop today (I know, no lifting 🙄)

Decided to sand a Walnut bowl that was dry. Also need to finish the foot later today.

The inside is sanded to 120/180 and will go more, but couldn’t resist wetting it up to see the figure and colors. I’m biased, but have been told that northern IL and NE Iowa have some of the best Black Walnut in the country. Has to do with soils and growing climate? Not sure…..and don’t mean to disparage any other growing regions, but is a general comment that’s been mentioned to me over the years.
Anyway - this one is 13” x 4” deep.

IMG_7922.jpeg IMG_7923.jpeg IMG_7926.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Recovering from hernia surgery (last Tuesday) but feeling pretty good now and went back in the shop today (I know, no lifting 🙄)

Decided to sand a Walnut bowl that was dry. Also need to finish the foot later today.

The inside is sanded to 120/180 and will go more, but couldn’t resist wetting it up to see the figure and colors. I’m biased, but have been told that northern IL and NE Iowa have some of the best Black Walnut in the country. Has to do with soils and growing climate? Not sure…..
Anyway - this one is 13” x 4” deep.

View attachment 278211View attachment 278212View attachment 278213
Absolutely spectacular! Glad to hear you are bouncing back! Don’t go and do something stupid in the next few weeks! Hernia operation survivor 2025…. Chuck
 
Back
Top