Ok...i get it. But I think Kevin would like to know what it means to you. You can tell him privately, cuz i like hunting down things. And I really want to find out on my own....
Wooden Katana
- Thread starter Kevin
- Start date
Ok...i get it. But I think Kevin would like to know what it means to you. You can tell him privately, cuz i like hunting down things. And I really want to find out on my own....
So you want me to say, hmmm, that sign with the X in it means RailRoad Crossing?
Much more complicated than that. It's a different language from a different culture.
Some things just don't translate literally.
I have a gist of what it means to me explained by a scholarly individual.
All I could do is butcher it.
Once someone had an ancient man read it and he said:
"King of Wood is Expensive"
I laughed my ___ off.
Much more complicated than that. It's a different language from a different culture.
Some things just don't translate literally.
I have a gist of what it means to me explained by a scholarly individual.
All I could do is butcher it.
Once someone had an ancient man read it and he said:
"King of Wood is Expensive"
I laughed my ___ off.
Try something much more simple:
Ma Ke Mu Yi
See if you can find equivalents in logograms then translations.
Not sure if this will get you there, but if you match the words to the Hanzi (chinese)
It may put you on the right path. Remember, Chinese and Japanese Caligraphy are often interchangeable and thus can easily be confused. Sometimes they are combinations of the two.
I've tried to put that in as simple terms as I can.
So far Senc has been closest. On the right track.
Ma Ke Mu Yi
See if you can find equivalents in logograms then translations.
Not sure if this will get you there, but if you match the words to the Hanzi (chinese)
It may put you on the right path. Remember, Chinese and Japanese Caligraphy are often interchangeable and thus can easily be confused. Sometimes they are combinations of the two.
I've tried to put that in as simple terms as I can.
So far Senc has been closest. On the right track.
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Kevin has the translation now.
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View attachment 114603
This was the first use of the seal when I got it from China as a gift.
They have to be used and broken in to make a perfect stamp.
http://www.sealsociety.org/more/glossary.html
This was the first use of the seal when I got it from China as a gift.
They have to be used and broken in to make a perfect stamp.
http://www.sealsociety.org/more/glossary.html
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #166
I finally took some pics of the sword in better light. I took it to the Sam Rayburn Library today because I was going to photograph the sword on the marble rostrum from where Lincoln and other presidents addressed congress for so many years, and from where FDR gave his immortal A date which will live in infamy speech - I thought it would be cool to have pictures of a Japanese katana replica on that rostrum. I still may yet get them before I send it to its owner. I think it would be a cool backstory. BUT the danged thing was closed. I forgot it closes at 2 PM on Saturdays. So I took some pictures out front. Here's a few pics....
That is dam impressive Kevin, you need to be very proud of your work on this one! Tony
Haven't hadmuch computer time. That came out sweet.
After looking and looking I really understand why you put as much thought and emphasis on the wrap as you did. It truly contributes as much to the first impression as anything.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #171
Sunday I started on the stand and last night I knocked it out. I just sprayed the first coat when I got back from logging a while ago. The HRB slab is supposed to represent a snow-capped Mt. Fuji - albeit one with much steeper slopes than what Fuji actually has but it was a function of the best slab I could find to mimic a snow-capped mountain. For infill it's got turquoise, atlantisite (spelling?) and some other stuff that I don't know what it was, I just crushed it up in my crusher and jambed it in the voids. The stand arms turned out looking sort of like antler tines according to my wife, but it was a happy accident because I was just cutting forms that looked good to my eye - no plans or templates. Lots of hand sanding!
The bottom detail curvatures will be a stretch for y'all non-Trekkies probably, but I tried to pay homage to a Klingon Bird of Prey with that outline.
Needs a few more coats of poly.
The bottom detail curvatures will be a stretch for y'all non-Trekkies probably, but I tried to pay homage to a Klingon Bird of Prey with that outline.
Needs a few more coats of poly.
Thats pretty cool Kevin. I'd recognize Snow-capped Mt. Fuji anywhere. Very cool you found that slab - it works!
I was thinking, and now being presumptuous by saying, that the stand arms would be so cool if done with black lacquer as in traditional stands, Perhaps a dark wash alternatively? If the arms are darkened they will allow the rest of the work to stand out.
Very cool - it's great to see this whole project evolving.
I was thinking, and now being presumptuous by saying, that the stand arms would be so cool if done with black lacquer as in traditional stands, Perhaps a dark wash alternatively? If the arms are darkened they will allow the rest of the work to stand out.
Very cool - it's great to see this whole project evolving.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #173
I agree and was actually going to use some really dark ziricote that I have, but my hand skills are so rusty I was afraid to try. I think you're 100% right it would look much better if I sprayed the arms black. Can I apply lacquer right over the poly (oil based minwax rattle can) or do I need to lay down a coat of shellac between them?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #174
Mark look how close the natural edge top is to the actual mountain silhouette . . . .
I had that view for 3 years growing up as a kid, every time I stepped out my back door and started across the vast rice patties with that majestic mountain looming on the horizon. Damn those were heady days growing up there! We don't know what we got until it's gone do we.
I had that view for 3 years growing up as a kid, every time I stepped out my back door and started across the vast rice patties with that majestic mountain looming on the horizon. Damn those were heady days growing up there! We don't know what we got until it's gone do we.
Ooooo, I would probably put a sealer that is compatible with the poly after steel woofing it or resanding to establish some key for the sealer to bond to. You could try some aniline dye and see what happens, first, and build up layers. It could take on a beautiful patina with the grain showing through. Actually, Charle's video on laying down a stain prior to finishing now comes to mind. Might be worth revisiting?
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #176
I don't want to sand it back down to the wood. I'll just leave it as is before I do that.
Mark look how close the natural edge top is to the actual mountain silhouette . . . .
View attachment 115301
I had that view for 3 years growing up as a kid, every time I stepped out my back door and started across the vast rice patties with that majestic mountain looming on the horizon. Damn those were heady days growing up there! We don't know what we got until it's gone do we.
I noticed that right away Kevin. I've never been there but I have painted it many times.
You were really fortunate to have been there during formative years. It no doubt has had a tremendous effect on your aesthetic outlook. The slab just perfectly mimics it. Looks almost like something Hiroshige might have done. Very cool.
I wasn't advocating sanding it all the way down, just enough for whatever to go on top.
Black lacquer works really well, then steel woolled with wax afterwards. Very easy, very effective.
EDIT:
If your poly is good and dry - it should take a rattle-can black. Just to be on the safe side, spray some over a test piece - doesn't have to be much - use a hair dryer to dry.
Black lacquer works really well, then steel woolled with wax afterwards. Very easy, very effective.
EDIT:
If your poly is good and dry - it should take a rattle-can black. Just to be on the safe side, spray some over a test piece - doesn't have to be much - use a hair dryer to dry.
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #179
Mark I trust your finishing experience and knowledge as much as anyone's including Neil's and more than almost everyone's (I have studied your past work more than you know - I spent several hours digging up old articles and projects about you and your dad online), but I am going to ask him to weigh in as well just because he and I go pretty far back - here's the thread.
As long as I've dug this hole, I may as well dig deeper.
Flat black, several coats. Steel wool it really good, so that it is a very matte flat black, like charcoal.
Then begin putting paste wax - bowling alley type is fine, building the the coats, and when buffing buff lightly, but not bringing it to a high shine. I think you might be surprised what a great look it is.
Flat black, several coats. Steel wool it really good, so that it is a very matte flat black, like charcoal.
Then begin putting paste wax - bowling alley type is fine, building the the coats, and when buffing buff lightly, but not bringing it to a high shine. I think you might be surprised what a great look it is.