Hand planes for sale

[trc65]

I've used everything from a block plane to a #3 through #7, plus low angle planes on a shooting board. All will work, but it's all in the setup. Closed mouth, set for a very thin slice, cap iron set very close to blade edge. Stanley Bailey did make a dedicated shooting board/plane combo, but I've never seen one "in the wild". Looking at collector sites, the two together will set you back $2000+.

A low angle block plane (Stanley 60 1/2 for example) can work very well for a shooting plane, but it's small size means building a board specifically for that plane, and there is little mass for "momentum". Also the small plane would mean using it mostly on wood less than 1/2" thick as the blade is only 1 3/8" wide.

Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen both make dedicated shooting planes, but at $400+ it's worth it to setup standard planes for shooting.

 

[ScoutDog]

I use a 4.5 corrugated for most everything, except for when I use the block plane. The 4.5 was my grandfather's and the only one I've ever restored. It's a beauty!!

@Mike1950 I'll claim the #7 with blessings from @JonathanH who is my neighbor and sponsor in the affliction.
Please DM with specifics. Thank you for making it available!!
Oh, and if there is wisdom in adding some wood to the shipping of the plane, we can definitely chat. :-)

 

[Mike1950]

I use a 4.5 corrugated for most everything, except for when I use the block plane. The 4.5 was my grandfather's and the only one I've ever restored. It's a beauty!!

@Mike1950 I'll claim the #7 with blessings from @JonathanH who is my neighbor and sponsor in the affliction.
Please DM with specifics. Thank you for making it available!!
Oh, and if there is wisdom in adding some wood to the shipping of the plane, we can definitely chat. :-)

I will bubblewrap. Probably shrink wrapped to plywood. Ups. I ship antique glass all the time.

 

[SENC]

Does the corrugated sole have any effect? Is it better to use a low angle plane for shooting? I have only tried it a couple times using my little Stanley hand plane and I kept getting lots of grabs. Maybe I didn't get the blade set in the right position (or it is dull).

Corrugated sole shouldn't make any difference, with a shooting board you're plane is riding on its side.

 

[Nature Man]

@Brink knows planes.

 

[daniscool]

No. In my post brand ?. It is unmarked except #7 which i said #7 and pictured the #7 age i have no clue. But 2 out of 3 of requested answers are in my post. Thus my question, did you read it.
Maybe no one has noticed but I am selling what I no longer need. I appreciate the info. But you obviously have no interest. But criticized without either comprehending or reading. Take yer pick.
I will list this and another, no luck they go to facebook.

Ah. Ok. I did read. Simply didn’t remember. Maybe I’m getting old. Sorry bout that.

 

[Mike1950]

I will be back at this today. Catch up before I list anything else.

 

[Billy]

Is this a 5 1/2 by any chance? Regardless, If it goes up for sale I would like to put my hat in the ring for it…

 

[Mike1950]

Is this a 5 1/2 by any chance? Regardless, If it goes up for sale I would like to put my hat in the ring for it…

 

[DLJeffs]

I'm still in the mix here for one I can use on my shooting board. People are recommending the #5 but Mike said he might have some other options so I was waiting to see what else he finds.

 

[Mike1950]

I have a solid bottom 5. Also. I am catching up. I will.picture.

 

[Mike1950]

I'm still in the mix here for one I can use on my shooting board. People are recommending the #5 but Mike said he might have some other options so I was waiting to see what else he finds.

And to add. Solid or corrugated, I doubt makes a difference. Thought about shooting plane but never set up. Sharpness of blade will be the key factor. End grain requires super sharp. As said above a good sharp block plane can work. Also said mass.. both together work best.

 

[DLJeffs]

From Google research on shooting boards it also appears it's important that the base be flat across the whole length and the angle between the bottom and sides is precisely 90 degrees (as you know the whole purpose of the shooting board is to get a precise clean edge for glue ups and stuff). I think it would also be good that it is easy to adjust the blade depth and the opening, so nice to have that knob rather than loosening a lever and manually trying to get the blade aligned and set to the proper depth.

 

[daniscool]

From Google research on shooting boards it also appears it's important that the base be flat across the whole length and the angle between the bottom and sides is precisely 90 degrees (as you know the whole purpose of the shooting board is to get a precise clean edge for glue ups and stuff). I think it would also be good that it is easy to adjust the blade depth and the opening, so nice to have that knob rather than loosening a lever and manually trying to get the blade aligned and set to the proper depth.

This be correct. Mass and blade angle help a lot and having a track is also useful as in the Stanley (I think 51/52)

 

[SENC]

the angle between the bottom and sides is precisely 90 degrees

Not as big a deal as you might think. The critical "squareness" is the relationship between the down side of the plane and the blade, and the blade is, of course, adjustable. Not to overstate the obvious, but when using a plane in its natural orientation, you take shavings on thin scrap and adjust until you're getting uniform shavings... meaning the blade is parallel to the base. Similarly, when using a plane on its side, you take some shavings and adjust the blade until you're getting uniform shavings... meaning the blade is perpendicular to the side. Whether that is perfectly parallel to the sole of the plane isn't important.

Here is a good YouTube video on making a shooting board, if you havent come across it already.

As for flattening, I personally think they need for "perfection" can be overstated. I do want my planes pretty darn flat lengthwise (with a little relief at the leading and trailing edges to run smoother and avoid digging in). Port-to-starboard, a little bit of hollow doesn't bother me or affect much, unless planing thin edges, and I take no time shooting for precise squareness to the sides (which I also flatten). I just want it square enough to be within the adjustment range of the blade. Belt sanding strips cut a few inches longer than the plane and set on a piece of flat granite (or glass or even dense wood, if truly flat) make for quick flattening. If really rough, I might start at 120, then 220, then 300. I don't see a lot of reason to go beyond that, though some folks enjoy polishing further. Do lightly oil the sole and sides after flattening.

 

[daniscool]

Not as big a deal as you might think. The critical "squareness" is the relationship between the down side of the plane and the blade, and the blade is, of course, adjustable. Not to overstate the obvious, but when using a plane in its natural orientation, you take shavings on thin scrap and adjust until you're getting uniform shavings... meaning the blade is parallel to the base. Similarly, when using a plane on its side, you take some shavings and adjust the blade until you're getting uniform shavings... meaning the blade is perpendicular to the side. Whether that is perfectly parallel to the sole of the plane isn't important.

Here is a good YouTube video on making a shooting board, if you havent come across it already.

As for flattening, I personally think they need for "perfection" can be overstated. I do want my planes pretty darn flat lengthwise (with a little relief at the leading and trailing edges to run smoother and avoid digging in). Port-to-starboard, a little bit of hollow doesn't bother me or affect much, unless planing thin edges, and I take no time shooting for precise squareness to the sides (which I also flatten). I just want it square enough to be within the adjustment range of the blade. Belt sanding strips cut a few inches longer than the plane and set on a piece of flat granite (or glass or even dense wood, if truly flat) make for quick flattening. If really rough, I might start at 120, then 220, then 300. I don't see a lot of reason to go beyond that, though some folks enjoy polishing further. Do lightly oil the sole and sides after flattening.

You can also measure the “parallelness” (is parallelarity?) by measuring the distance between the plane blade at the end (the end over the tip of the tote) and the bottom of the shooting board. Make sure that is the same as the distance of the corner of the plane blade to the bottom of the board. If they are the same, then the blade is parallel to the board. Assuming you have a blade that is 90* to its sides. (Too much of a camber can influence this too) this is easy to measure with a right angle.

 

[SENC]

You can also measure the “parallelness” (is parallelarity?) by measuring the distance between the plane blade at the end (the end over the tip of the tote) and the bottom of the shooting board. Make sure that is the same as the distance of the corner of the plane blade to the bottom of the board. If they are the same, then the blade is parallel to the board. Assuming you have a blade that is 90* to its sides. (Too much of a camber can influence this too) this is easy to measure with a right angle.

I think you're definitely right, but as my eyes get older I find it easier and quicker to just run the plane and watch the shavings as it cuts, and adjust until it cuts evenly. A few swipes and done.

I'll also admit to having some perfectionist tendencies - put a right angle in my hand and I may tweak and tweak and tweak - so focusing more on the result and less on the setup is a way for me to avoid that personal trap.

 

[Mike1950]

I think you're definitely right, but as my eyes get older I find it easier and quicker to just run the plane and watch the shavings as it cuts, and adjust until it cuts evenly. A few swipes and done.

I'll also admit to having some perfectionist tendencies - put a right angle in my hand and I may tweak and tweak and tweak - so focusing more on the result and less on the setup is a way for me to avoid that personal trap.

it is good to strive for perfection as long as you realize you cannot attain it and also realize when to stop.

 

[Nature Man]

I think you're definitely right, but as my eyes get older I find it easier and quicker to just run the plane and watch the shavings as it cuts, and adjust until it cuts evenly. A few swipes and done.

I'll also admit to having some perfectionist tendencies - put a right angle in my hand and I may tweak and tweak and tweak - so focusing more on the result and less on the setup is a way for me to avoid that personal trap.

That’s a voice of experience!

 

[Billy]

My over-achieving attempt to highlight the one I’m interested in didn’t post for some reason, so here’s another crack at it. It’s from your 2nd posted picture of Stanleys on a Shelf.