How to repair a crack? Need advice!

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  • #21
Kevin said:
And did you apply the same finish and same number of coats on the bottom as you did the top?
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I applied two on the bottom and probably 5 on the top could that be the problem?
 
Probably not the only problem, and might not be a problem at all, but it's always best to do the bottom exactly how you do the top. Doesn't mean you have to sand through the grits the same you just want to keep both sides breathing in and out the same as closely as possible.
 
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  • #23
Kevin said:
Probably not the only problem, and might not be a problem at all, but it's always best to do the bottom exactly how you do the top. Doesn't mean you have to sand through the grits the same you just want to keep both sides breathing in and out the same as closely as possible.
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Ohh ok I had talked to a local guy for suggestions he said wipe on poly for the top and oil the bottom because of I completely sealed it. It would crack the finish. So I need to finish the whole piece with the same finish same amount?
 
APBcustoms said:
Ohh ok I had talked to a local guy for suggestions he said wipe on poly for the top and oil the bottom because of I completely sealed it. It would crack the finish. So I need to finish the whole piece with the same finish same amount?
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You're going to get differing opinions, and there are variables. I have had the best results doing as I suggested. Unless you seal the whole thing with a flood coat, the moisture transfer will still happen - if the MC was too high when you did it then yes it can do bad things to the finish and a flood coat won't stop that either - trapped mositure WILL get out somehow.

If it was low say 6% or lower then you shouldn't have a problem. His method will also work in the right conditions and will not cup provided the slab came from in the tree and how large the tree was etc. too many variables to list. As a general rule whatever I do to the top I do to the bottom. Others will tell you different and if it works for them it is not wrong. I am surely not the finsih expert here I am just telling you what works for me.
 
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  • #25
Kevin said:
You're going to get differing opinions, and there are variables. I have had the best results doing as I suggested. Unless you seal the whole thing with a flood coat, the moisture transfer will still happen - if the MC was too high when you did it then yes it can do bad things to the finish and a flood coat won't stop that either - trapped mositure WILL get out somehow.

If it was low say 6% or lower then you shouldn't have a problem. His method will also work in the right conditions and will not cup provided the slab came from in the tree and how large the tree was etc. too many variables to list. As a general rule whatever I do to the top I do to the bottom. Others will tell you different and if it works for them it is not wrong. I am surely not the finsih expert here I am just telling you what works for me.
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I'm going to go ahead and put more costs of oil on the bottom to slow down the drying.. Also do you really think a bow tie would help on the bottom even though the crack doesn't go though? I could try and do a inch and a half bow tie tail
 
Kevin said:
You're going to get differing opinions, and there are variables. I have had the best results doing as I suggested. Unless you seal the whole thing with a flood coat, the moisture transfer will still happen - if the MC was too high when you did it then yes it can do bad things to the finish and a flood coat won't stop that either - trapped mositure WILL get out somehow.

If it was low say 6% or lower then you shouldn't have a problem. His method will also work in the right conditions and will not cup provided the slab came from in the tree and how large the tree was etc. too many variables to list. As a general rule whatever I do to the top I do to the bottom. Others will tell you different and if it works for them it is not wrong. I am surely not the finsih expert here I am just telling you what works for me.
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Living in Maryland and the slab being 15 yrs old there is absolutely no chance of wood being 6% in my opinion. 12-14% would be a better guess if it was not in climate control. It is VERY humid there.
 
Bob's your uncle.
 
APBcustoms said:
For sure not climate controlled!
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I figured that- we take a chunk of wood -bolt it to metal frame (show us bottom) - it has been outside- big hunk of wood- we sand and finish it. Put it inside and it is drier wants to shrink Can't because we bolted it to frame underneath and did not let it shrink- so it cracked- all speculative. - Did you allow
for movement in the way bottom metal frame is attached?? My "Guess" is you did not????
 
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  • #31
Kevin said:
Bob's your uncle.
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I do have an uncle bob I'm guessing this is humor I don't get.

Mike1950 said:
I figured that- we take a chunk of wood -bolt it to metal frame (show us bottom) - it has been outside- big hunk of wood- we sand and finish it. Put it inside and it is drier wants to shrink Can't because we bolted it to frame underneath and did not let it shrink- so it cracked- all speculative. - Did you allow
for movement in the way bottom metal frame is attached?? My "Guess" is you did not????
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I just put the slab ontop of the frame
 
All things considered I'd use sliding cleats at this point. Mike is right - no matter how heavy it is it is unsafe not to fasten it.
 
And if we're going to be honest in a constructive way I'd build a frame more suited to the top. That frame is ugly and cheap looking regardless of the price you paid and in now way compliments the top. JMO.
 
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