I admit it. Tables are inferior.
How to repair a crack? Need advice!
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I admit it. Tables are inferior.
Austin you are in what professionals call "a quandry" good thing its your father - some lessons are earned the hard way , this is one of them >Austin do not! squander this opportunity to learn a valuable lesson, even if none of us can tell you quite what that lesson is But i thinks you are starting to get it, go boy go I will give u this > either you got big kahunas or you are desparate asking this here bunch
either you got big kahunas or you are desparate asking this here bunch
... or both ...
I've never done this, so don't look to me for sensible suggestions ... but since I'm typing ...
You could make Z-clips that are screwed to the underside of the table, arranged inside the top rails of the frame. The clips would both stop sliding and reduce the (already small) chance of tipping.
I think.
You could make Z-clips that are screwed to the underside of the table, arranged inside the top rails of the frame. The clips would both stop sliding and reduce the (already small) chance of tipping.
I think.
This is close to what I'm referring to. They'd need to be wider so the hole can be elongated to accommodate movement and maybe a little beefier, and the height would need to be about a 1/16" higher than the square tubing so it doesn't bind. Easy to make.
Two on either side of the cross members would be all your need.
Cliff is right about learning and don't feel bad - every single one of us here is still learning too. We're at different points on the curve and really we all have many points on the curve depending on what facet of wood working being discussed. One of the many things in your favor is you are willing to ask. Keep asking maybe we'll even stumble across a correct answer on occasion.
Two on either side of the cross members would be all your need.
Cliff is right about learning and don't feel bad - every single one of us here is still learning too. We're at different points on the curve and really we all have many points on the curve depending on what facet of wood working being discussed. One of the many things in your favor is you are willing to ask. Keep asking maybe we'll even stumble across a correct answer on occasion.
Only difference is the older guys have made more mistakes then you Have.......
That's exactly what I meant by Z-clip ... now I know the real name for them is "sliding cleat"
That's exactly what I meant by Z-clip ... now I know the real name for them is "sliding cleat"
You sure don't want to use my nomenclature Duncan. I was learnt by a sure enough country boy that literally left the farm and made good in the navy - he had weird names for everything. He got them from his dad who was born in the late 1800s when tools had regional names. I grew up being told told channel locks are called "water pumps". Reducing washers are called "chinese money". A glove box is a "car pocket". A convenience store is a "geedunk". He still uses these terms and thinks they are correct.
He brougth me up smart though. He taught me things like "Even a spotted pig looks solid at night."
AKA table top clip.
Since it was not fastened- My WAG is it was NOT 15 yrs dry. I would hold off on any major repairs - one thing I have found with thick wood- it does nothing fast but does just what It damn well pleases. Good luck.
The bow ties on the underside seems like a reasonable solution for preventing things from worsening.
I'm wondering if you moved the slab back to the shop and the higher humidity, would the crack close down on its own? It's worth a shot before applying the bow ties since it might save you a little trouble filling the void.
I've heard that the customer is always right, but I don't agree with your customer on hiding the bow ties. That table is all about the natural beauty of that big wooden slab with its thickness and natural edge... I'd want to celebrate the cracks too!
I'm wondering if you moved the slab back to the shop and the higher humidity, would the crack close down on its own? It's worth a shot before applying the bow ties since it might save you a little trouble filling the void.
I've heard that the customer is always right, but I don't agree with your customer on hiding the bow ties. That table is all about the natural beauty of that big wooden slab with its thickness and natural edge... I'd want to celebrate the cracks too!
Austin- First, thanks for bringing this to us. I'm guessing that for a few of us (Or at least one) that has been thinking about building a big slab table this has been informative. I have some white oak slabs that were supposed to have been dry that got moved into my shop and did the same thing after a while.
I'd appreciate the thoughts of a few others on here with more experience than I have but you may want to wait a bit on a repair to make sure the piece is done moving if the customer will allow that or do a temporary fill with epoxy or something to hide the crack and then come back in a month or two and see if it has moved any more. I had a table top that I thought was done moving so I did a repair and then about 6 weeks later it took off on me in another spot
I'd appreciate the thoughts of a few others on here with more experience than I have but you may want to wait a bit on a repair to make sure the piece is done moving if the customer will allow that or do a temporary fill with epoxy or something to hide the crack and then come back in a month or two and see if it has moved any more. I had a table top that I thought was done moving so I did a repair and then about 6 weeks later it took off on me in another spot
That slab could have been dry, and crack free. By trimming the ends, and planing (or sanding) the surface flat could have altered internal stresses to cause a crack to develop. Sometimes, this is what big thick pieces do.
Colin, wood never stops moving even after the stress is released unless it is placed in an environment that never changes. The design goal and when choosing joinery is not to prevent wood mavement be ause it's not possible (unless in a museum etc) but rather to accommodate the movement.
Even a piece that will be placed in service in a palacial estate must still be designed as if it will end up in an environment that is not as tightly controlled, because that's what happens to furniture usually.
Only think you can hope to do is minimize the movement by environment but build to accommodate movement anyway with your design.
Even a piece that will be placed in service in a palacial estate must still be designed as if it will end up in an environment that is not as tightly controlled, because that's what happens to furniture usually.
Only think you can hope to do is minimize the movement by environment but build to accommodate movement anyway with your design.
It is very rare to see a big slab of hardwood that has been around a while that doesn't check or crack, it's the nature of the beast.
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I originally wasn't going to take this project on, but was talked into it by my dad. I should of consulted you all in advance for advice. I knew by posting this id get harped on by you all for not doing this properly but when it comes to building something for a client being my father or somebody else. sometimes we have to swallow our pride and ask for help. so i dont know if its being desperate or slightly larger than average kahunas but you gotta do what needs to be done whether you like it or not. thank you a for the help. also as far as a learning experience; I have learned quite a bit from this. one of the things I learned was to not take on projects out of my coffort zone and also to stand up for myself with my opinions. I absolutly hate the base on this table and hated it before we purchased it. but i let my father talk me into it being his table and what he wanted. thanks again for all the help. Im going to wait till winter when the humidity goes down take the slab back to my shop. fill the cracks and take the floor sander to it and re flatten it because it seemed to cup a little bit. a also am going to put some sliding brackets on to secure it and do a few deep dovetails from the bottom to hopefully stop the cracking. lastly sine i need to take the cupping out im going to switch out the finish and seal it better on the bottom so that it will have even moisture flow throughout the piece.
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Austin, d0n't be so hard on yourself, making mistakes is how we learn. We all make mistakes, if your not making mistakes your not doing anything, simple as that. Just asking for help from friends is a great way to learn. And so now you know more about big slab tables than you did before you built this one, and you'll learn how to fix some problems too. All in all a good lesson.
Just put a table cloth over it, nobody will see the crack that way, and it'll be less work on you :)
I agree with @Kevin no one harping- just giving their thoughts. You need a moisture meter and use it. Don't take anyone's word for how dry it is. Sounds to me like it was a little damp. If you don't take on stuff out of your comfort zone you will never learn- Failure is the best teacher. Believe me I know been there and done it many times. You also might want to put in writing in your contract- it's wood and will do what it wants-incl. cracks warp etc especially with big slabs. Looks good.