How to repair a crack? Need advice!
- Thread starter APBcustoms
- Start date
I'm waiting to see if he used the shop vac and black epoxy, but ya the MC % is still on my mind too....
Austin how did this ever turn out?
Bob's your uncle is a British term that means things turned out well, like our phrase "as luck would have it!". It can also mean things turned out predictably well in spite of not starting out that way - like our phrase "there you go!' . One example . . .
I got pulled over for 135 in a 55 zone but I "accidentally" dropped a $100 in front of the policemen retrieving my license from my wallet and, Bob's your uncle, he let me off with a warning!
@duncsuss could explain it much better, although it's not likely a right honorable King's English-speaking tea-totaling chuffed toff like Duncan would be caught using the term himself.
Bob's your uncle is a British term that means things turned out well, like our phrase "as luck would have it!". It can also mean things turned out predictably well in spite of not starting out that way - like our phrase "there you go!' . One example . . .
I got pulled over for 135 in a 55 zone but I "accidentally" dropped a $100 in front of the policemen retrieving my license from my wallet and, Bob's your uncle, he let me off with a warning!
@duncsuss could explain it much better, although it's not likely a right honorable King's English-speaking tea-totaling chuffed toff like Duncan would be caught using the term himself.
Not sure about "as luck would have it" (that's a phrase I don't use).
To me, "Bob's your uncle" is the equivalent of "there you go", "that did it", the French "et voilà", "ta-daaaaah!!!"
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- #65
Austin how did this ever turn out?
Bob's your uncle is a British term that means things turned out well, like our phrase "as luck would have it!". It can also mean things turned out predictably well in spite of not starting out that way - like our phrase "there you go!' . One example . . .
I got pulled over for 135 in a 55 zone but I "accidentally" dropped a $100 in front of the policemen retrieving my license from my wallet and, Bob's your uncle, he let me off with a warning!
@duncsuss could explain it much better, although it's not likely a right honorable King's English-speaking tea-totaling chuffed toff like Duncan would be caught using the term himself.
sorry about the delay. the cracking stopped where it was and it wi be filled with dust and epoxy soon then scraped flat and finished. im still trying to talk him into letting me do a dovetail
Try this on him:
Dad, stop being such a hardhead. I see what mom meant now, and everyone on Woodbarter says you're being a dipstick too. Just run your business and let me fix this thing the way it should be.
On second thought try that dust/epoxy thing first.......
not going to hold it together with a little glue
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- #68
hopefully once he sees that he will let me take care of it
A. as quite a few above have expressed- IS THIS WOOD DRY? If it is not no amount of glue bowties or??? will work. Wood moves for a reason- usually moisture. B. most of us have made the same mistake- make that all- thinking we can change it.
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- #70
ill get a moisture reading once the snow clears itll be a few days it was at something like 12 when my dad took a reading and for maryland i think thats where it should be
Honestly, it would seem to me that you might first take a moisture reading on a few other wood pieces within the same room if possible, but at least within the house that it is in. Once you have an established MC for what's in the house already, then test the table top and compare. If it's within roughly a few percent difference, fill what you've got and proceed with enjoying it. If not, it really depends on just how far apart the measurements are. If it's roughly 6 percent different, I might be inclined to leave it alone until it has reached EMC (equilibrium moisture content) and then fill it as suggested. The further away from EMC the piece measures, the more likely it is to continue on it's present course or worse.
One of the things that happen quite often in my shop is when flattening a thick piece of wood >1.25", no matter what the MC of it is initially, it will generally read differently once you have removed a quarter inch or so of wood from its surface. Like others have mentioned, it should be allowed to dry out more before further processing as you have now opened it up to different stresses, and when drying can begin to move in whatever direction has the least resistance. That could be splitting, cracking, checking, warping, twisting, etc. I will let the wood dry again after flattening to assure that it has at least reached EMC or lower before I proceed with making a finished piece out of it.
Whatever you wind up doing to the crack, I'd definitely suggest finishing the bottom with a clear coat to help prevent moisture issues in the future. When I was first researching finishes many years ago trying to learn the properties of them and what would work best for sealing wood, I settled on Zinsser's Seal Coat, an unwaxed shellac, as all the research at the time pointed to the fact that it was superior in limiting the transfer of moisture through the finish. I have for 11 years now, applied it to all surfaces of furniture that I build. Some pieces, such as table tops, also get a finish over that on their top surface for protection from spills, cleaners, etc. I have built some pieces with wide (20"+) planks in them and thus far had no issues.
One of the things that happen quite often in my shop is when flattening a thick piece of wood >1.25", no matter what the MC of it is initially, it will generally read differently once you have removed a quarter inch or so of wood from its surface. Like others have mentioned, it should be allowed to dry out more before further processing as you have now opened it up to different stresses, and when drying can begin to move in whatever direction has the least resistance. That could be splitting, cracking, checking, warping, twisting, etc. I will let the wood dry again after flattening to assure that it has at least reached EMC or lower before I proceed with making a finished piece out of it.
Whatever you wind up doing to the crack, I'd definitely suggest finishing the bottom with a clear coat to help prevent moisture issues in the future. When I was first researching finishes many years ago trying to learn the properties of them and what would work best for sealing wood, I settled on Zinsser's Seal Coat, an unwaxed shellac, as all the research at the time pointed to the fact that it was superior in limiting the transfer of moisture through the finish. I have for 11 years now, applied it to all surfaces of furniture that I build. Some pieces, such as table tops, also get a finish over that on their top surface for protection from spills, cleaners, etc. I have built some pieces with wide (20"+) planks in them and thus far had no issues.
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- #72
Wow I completely spaced on this sorry guys. I did a dust glue fill three months ago and I just checked it and no separation or other cracking has appeared
