My boxes

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  • #81
Here is my latest box. It is made from Cherry and figured Maple. The dimensions are 6 3/8”x3 3/4”x2 3/4” tall to top of lid. The finish is a clear danish oil and a heavy coat of shellac rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and the buffed out with a clear wax. The lid is a lift off type. IMG_2981.webp IMG_2980.webp IMG_2979.webp
 
No corner splines. The lid has brass pins as a hinge.

point taken. I agree with you. Thanks for your opinion.
You clearly have splines or fingers in the corners of the box in post #81. I see you were responding about post #83.
 
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  • #90
So here is my latest box. It is made from Pacific Yew. The size is 7 3/8”X4 5/8”x 2 1/4” tall. The finish is a few coats of Amber Shellac and buffed out with 0000 steel wool.
the hardware is Brusso stop hinges and the bottom is lined with leather IMG_3035.webp IMG_3034.webp IMG_3036.webp
 
You have used exceptional woods and you have a good eye for the combinations.

You asked for critiques and I have a few suggestions to elevate your work. Please do not think me harsh. I am guilty of each of the things below.

Sanding - Avoid over aggressive sanding with your palm sander. There are areas where too much wood has been removed.

Mitered corners - Check the accuracy of your miter and/or table saw to ensure all your cuts are exact. Some joints are a little sloppy and look like the angles are off. Have you considered using a miter lock joint router bit? It produces an extremely strong and accurate joint. I’ve used on some humidors I’ve made for friends and the corners were crisp and tight.

Excess glue - Be sure to remove any squeeze out with a wet sponge or paper towel.

Hinges - Your last box has really nice hinges but you leaned the chisel away from the hinge and dented the wood so the isn't a crisp edge. Be sure your chisels are razor sharp. Also one of the boxes had hinges that were not the correct size.
 
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  • #94
Thank you for your comments. I appreciate it.
I am still re- learning my trade after years of not doing wood working. Every time I make a box I am getting closer to what I used to do.
Hinges are a tough one for me. Miters are getting better with the new 45 degree shooting board.
 
Watch Rob Cosman videos on YouTube. A hinge is mounted in a mortise and he shows how to chisel a mortise and using a shooting board. Also how to sharpen plane knives and chisels.

You’ll get there. You’re off to a great start with those outrageous pieces of wood.
 
Watch Rob Cosman videos on YouTube. A hinge is mounted in a mortise and he shows how to chisel a mortise and using a shooting board. Also how to sharpen plane knives and chisels.

You’ll get there. You’re off to a great start with those outrageous pieces of wood.
He recommends a 16000 grit Shapton. Get an 8000. More than enough and cheaper.

His hidden hinges though? Those are really cool.
 
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  • #97
His hidden hinges are on my list of things to do. And I would love to get those stones but I can’t justify the cost right now. I have a lot of wet/dry sand paper and a good jig. I keep my planes and chisels razor sharp.
 
His hidden hinges are on my list of things to do. And I would love to get those stones but I can’t justify the cost right now. I have a lot of wet/dry sand paper and a good jig. I keep my planes and chisels razor sharp.
To begin with, stones are not what I would recommend either. It’s just that with time you might not want to have the added continuous expense of sandpaper.
 
Have you looked into diamond stones? They have become inexpensive and stay flat.
 
Have you looked into diamond stones? They have become inexpensive and stay flat.
But they do wear out with time. Diamond plates are essentially really fancy, rigid sandpaper. Also, the glass backed Shaptons don’t warp either. They do wear but only slowly. I just have one diamond plate for flattening and the rest is Shaptons. (can you tell that I like Shaptons?)

They are nice to have around though.
 
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