Rainy day so finished the lathe work today, will oil it next time.
What did you do in your shop today?
- Thread starter woodtickgreg
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Well, not so much woodworking in the shop— many nuisance project to do for the house we’re in at present. About 100 yrs old, steps are steep and narrow footings, so had to do something about that— discovered the hardest concrete I’ve ever drilled for the anchors. But Moms happy now!
Back steps are next— will be a larger project, she desires a landing too.
Back steps are next— will be a larger project, she desires a landing too.
Looking good. If your back area has the concrete as well, you might want to rent or buy a rotary hammer drill. It has an active hammer like a jackhammer. Bores through the harder stuff much faster. I bought my first one after spending a full day melting bits on concrete/mortar in a
. Had three times as many holes bored in 2 hours with my rented rotary hammer drill. Owned one the next week.
Good looking steps. The way you did it is fine but I always install the risers before the treads. This method is easier for me and this method allows you to nail or screw the risers into the back of the treads for stronger tighter stairs.
I would have added stringer decking leveling feet to keep it off the ground when it rain and pours as that area is susceptible to rot. I would have also undercut the bottom riser to keep it off the ground per line 1.
It will look weird, but for safety I also would have added a railing post and handle on the left side and you can easily attach it to the sides of the stringer.
It will look weird, but for safety I also would have added a railing post and handle on the left side and you can easily attach it to the sides of the stringer.
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I DID use a hammer drill….Looking good. If your back area has the concrete as well, you might want to rent or buy a rotary hammer drill. It has an active hammer like a jackhammer. Bores through the harder stuff much faster. I bought my first one after spending a full day melting bits on concrete/mortar in a
Rotary hammer or hammer? That was the difference. The rotary has the active hammer while the drill labeled "hammer" uses your weight and the less pressure we can deliver with our body the slower it goes. So as we age, that darn concrete gets.even.harder.
Nice to hear folks using shear scraping techniques. Truly valuable skill for taming some pieces. Looks like a nice bowl coming.
Couple days ago I came across a nice crabapple blank gifted to me by @DKMD and dated 9/11, thank you David! It should be dry by now. 
Some curly grain, can’t wait to get a finish on it.
About 5” x 9” rough, shooting for about 7-1/2” tall when done, 7/8” opening.
First time turning crabapple which seems somewhat similar to apple I’ve turned.
Taking my time with this one. Got my carbide hook tools inside and turns nice.
Have some chores to get done now that I have a zero turn Ariens Ikon 52 picked up on sale at Lowe’s. Residential grade but has good features adequate for a couple acres.
Some curly grain, can’t wait to get a finish on it.About 5” x 9” rough, shooting for about 7-1/2” tall when done, 7/8” opening.
First time turning crabapple which seems somewhat similar to apple I’ve turned.
Taking my time with this one. Got my carbide hook tools inside and turns nice.
Have some chores to get done now that I have a zero turn Ariens Ikon 52 picked up on sale at Lowe’s. Residential grade but has good features adequate for a couple acres.
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Excellent!Couple days ago I came across a nice crabapple blank gifted to me by @DKMD and dated 9/11, thank you David! It should be dry by now.
About 5” x 9” rough, shooting for about 7-1/2” tall when done, 7/8” opening.
First time turning crabapple which seems somewhat similar to apple I’ve turned.
Taking my time with this one. Got my carbide hook tools inside and turns nice.
Have some chores to get done now that I have a zero turn Ariens Ikon 52 picked up on sale at Lowe’s. Residential grade but has good features adequate for a couple acres.
View attachment 273116
View attachment 273117
How is Keller?
I've been helping a lady up the road whose husband passed away about two years ago. He installed a short 4x4 post in his front yard to hold the controls for his landscape lighting and stuff. Had a solar light mounted on top and a 14" square roof around it. It was falling apart so she asked me if I could do something with it. It was in such bad shape I had to completely rebuild it. That was a learning exercise in compound angles and all. Lots of "corrections" on the belt sander. Remade the roof section with 5/8"plywood and thin strips of cedar scrounged from the scrap pile when they rebuilt the decks on the condos up the way. Still need to make the ridge caps and I'll run a bead of caulking under those before I attach them. Ted's mounting method was to fix the roof and solar light to a short 6" section of 4x4 and then screw that to the top of the post installed in the yard (photo 2). I'll probably just repeat that. She bought new light to go on top but it mounts on the top of the 4x4 so that'll be the same as the old one also.
She wants it left natural wood but I'll protect it with coats of spar varnish.
She wants it left natural wood but I'll protect it with coats of spar varnish.
Super kind gesture for you to help out your neighbor. Perhaps you can post a pic when the job is complete. I’m trying to figure out just what you remade. Chuck
I was taught to put the risers on first for those reasons along with ice reasons. Dad said treads ware out first, so they need to be exposed for easy replacement. If the tread goes under the riser, water follows and ice expands. Not a common southern issue.
It looks like he used treated lumber, designed to contact the ground. Are they 6" steps I wonder? Many places do not require a handrail for steps 30" high and under. Safety....over-rated.....
Went out to finish turn a bowl for Mom to give to a lady in her neighborhood club. Plugged it the lathe turned it on and nothing.
Flipped it up on end, removed the control box, opened it up, and see this:
It was actually worse, it was full before half of it fell out while opening it. Blew it out, saw no scorch marks, so proceeded. Pulled the wires off the switch and rigged a jumper to test and it ran. Pulled switch, blew it out, cleaned the contacts and good to go. Need to set a reminder to clean out the controller once every 7 years or so to prevent it from happening again.
Flipped it up on end, removed the control box, opened it up, and see this:
It was actually worse, it was full before half of it fell out while opening it. Blew it out, saw no scorch marks, so proceeded. Pulled the wires off the switch and rigged a jumper to test and it ran. Pulled switch, blew it out, cleaned the contacts and good to go. Need to set a reminder to clean out the controller once every 7 years or so to prevent it from happening again.
Some of those chips look large. Is there a bigger opening somewhere to vent heat? Does it need to be vented? If not, could you RTV silicone it?Went out to finish turn a bowl for Mom to give to a lady in her neighborhood club. Plugged it the lathe turned it on and nothing.
Flipped it up on end, removed the control box, opened it up, and see this:
View attachment 273363
It was actually worse, it was full before half of it fell out while opening it. Blew it out, saw no scorch marks, so proceeded. Pulled the wires off the switch and rigged a jumper to test and it ran. Pulled switch, blew it out, cleaned the contacts and good to go. Need to set a reminder to clean out the controller once every 7 years or so to prevent it from happening again.
I was concerned when I saw this about the potential of spontaneous combustion around those electrical connections. Chuck
Prolonged contact w/ water can lead to rot. I know this for a fact as I had to remove and replace decking and post because of the contact with water, especially if the water sits and it gets soaked.
Residential threads and riser I follow the 6-1/2” (riser height) and 11” (thread depth).
Railing- I err on the side of caution. Young kids, elderly person, during night time, a possible mis step, possibility lost of balance, someone has an faint spell, bringing groceries up those stairs and thinking there might be a railing handle on the other side as one reaches for it, can possibly cause injury. I always design for function and safety as anything can happen anytime.
Arn
PS- I had to put a ramp for a cafe/wine bar so it is ADA compliant. I need railing and yes you are not required to space the spindle at 4” on center because of the height. However, there is liability should something happen in the premises, say a kid trips and falls into the opening of the railing, into the concrete. Someone gets too much alcohol, they can still get hurt if the railing is open if they lose their balance and fall into the opening.
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It's got rather large vents, along with the aluminum (?) heat sink on the top and back side. It also sits right underneath the leg on the tail stock side. Not the best design IMO, but it's probably exacerbated by sitting in a bench rather than on a set of legs. To be fair, I don't clean as often as I should. However, when you blow off shavings that build up under the left side there is nothing to stop them from going through the vents.
If it was difficult to remove and clean, I would probably make some mods to it, but with a screwdriver and Allen wrench in hand, I can remove, clean and reattach in less than 5 minutes. Just have to remind myself to do so.
Spent most of the day yesterday trying to make something out of this rotten punky cherry. Was not to be! It just crumbles in your hand. Had some spectacular explosions though. Lol!
Ended up just throwing it all into the burn pile.
Ended up just throwing it all into the burn pile.
