Excellent comments Mark. I don't have a specific use or plan for this. I was getting tired of moving around this pile of maple strips left over from guitar making and just figured this was a good use for some of them. I still have a pile, maybe not enough for a box this big but maybe a shallower box. The open weave of the sides makes it a good candidate for anything that needs a little air circulation. My wife says she has a use for it so it's hers now. It's outside dimensions are 17" x 11" x 10" deep. I would make a good potato box.Doug,
This would make a most excellent clothes hamper. If lidded it would be a great animal crate as well (thinking more like chickens, birds but other too). I can see the thing being filled with grapes, and sadly with potatoes. So many possibilities. Remind us what you are going to use it for.
Question: You pinned the corners, I see that holding the top rail joint, however the pins look to be perpendicular, as in squared (90 degrees). Is that so? Sure you used modern glue so likely never an issue.
Dad would tell me to offset the pin hole. So it would go through the top joint and into the corner rails at an angle. We often used "horse glue" and "hide glue". The concept was when lifting up, there was side forces transferred by the pin holding in more directions. Moisture played hell with those glues and sometimes they failed. So if the pin was angled, you had friction to back up the glue. With bigger corners, the pin was angled more. So when you cut and sanded it, it was a "decorative" oval. Unless like me one time, drilled the hole angled the wrong direction so the oval failed to match the others....I was a kid, that is the excuse I'm going with.
The other really cool thing about these weave baskets / boxes, when you break a slat, you steam it out and steam a replacement in (unless you pinned the ends, that makes it a bit harder). Way Cool build.
The dowel pins in the top frame do indeed go straight down into the corner posts, about an inch or so. And you are correct, that probably isn't the most structurally secure way to do that. I didn't think about angling them. Because I cut the slots for the maple slats about 1/4" deep into two sides of the posts, and the posts are roughly 1" square, I only had about a 5/8" square area of post of drill into (see the photo below). I tried to center my dowel pin into that area. I did use Titebond, both between the top frame and post and in the dowel hole and in the mortise & tenon joints. I don't think it'll come apart but it could. I guess ideally it would be better to have the top frame tenon go into the corner post and then dowel pin it through. I did not pin the maple slats, they're just sitting in the saw kerfs in the corner posts. The vertical maple slats are glued and nailed into the plywood bottom (covered by the cherry trim), but just sit in routed dados in the top frame. There's probably methods for making these types of boxes but I didn't bother researching it - just winged it, trying to use some of the "scraps" I had in the garage. The cherry was leftover from a coat rack thing I built several years ago and it had twisted and warped a little so I could only use it for shorter projects. The juniper was rough sawn from a place up near Terrebonne and I had used it for some key racks, etc.. It was a little over 1" thick so I figured it would make good corner posts. Nothing more scientific than that went into this box, heh heh.
Edit: The other weak link is where the corner posts attach to the plywood bottom. I chiseled out a 5/8" deep pocket in the bottom of each corner, so the plywood bottom would recess into that pocket. Then I glued and nailed the corner posts to the plywood bottom. You can kind of see how I did that in this photo. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this part too.

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