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Workbench top design

sprucegum

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I'm really tempted to spend $24 on a set of plans for a Roubo bench. After watching some videos I feel like with a couple of small modifications it would work really well for me. The vice hardware is pretty expensive but because I don't have to buy any lumber the project wouldn't break the bank and it would be a really fun build.
 

SENC

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I'm really tempted to spend $24 on a set of plans for a Roubo bench. After watching some videos I feel like with a couple of small modifications it would work really well for me. The vice hardware is pretty expensive but because I don't have to buy any lumber the project wouldn't break the bank and it would be a really fun build.
I think this is based on, or at least similar to, a Roubo, and is another I'd bookmarked as a possibility. I like the way this guy presents his stuff.

 

woodtickgreg

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My thoughts on a workbench or design of a workbench should be based on this. How do you work, how do you use your workbench? We are all different, we work differently, use different tools and methods. Many things need to be considered. Workbench height, width, and length? Some folks like storage under their bench? Some like tool storage and or tool Trays? Different kinds of vices and ways to hold work, etc? Portability or not going to move? Cost?
After giving all of this careful thought and based on benches I have made over the years I decided to design my own bench based on my methods of work and not just go with a design that's already out there or a plan that can be purchased. There's nothing wrong with that if it suits you. But I never saw a bench that had everything I wanted in a bench or stuff that I didn't want. After 50+ years of wood working I learned what I want in a bench.
So folks give it some thought before you even cut a board to build one, or buy one.
 

sprucegum

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My thoughts on a workbench or design of a workbench should be based on this. How do you work, how do you use your workbench? We are all different, we work differently, use different tools and methods. Many things need to be considered. Workbench height, width, and length? Some folks like storage under their bench? Some like tool storage and or tool Trays? Different kinds of vices and ways to hold work, etc? Portability or not going to move? Cost?
After giving all of this careful thought and based on benches I have made over the years I decided to design my own bench based on my methods of work and not just go with a design that's already out there or a plan that can be purchased. There's nothing wrong with that if it suits you. But I never saw a bench that had everything I wanted in a bench or stuff that I didn't want. After 50+ years of wood working I learned what I want in a bench.
So folks give it some thought before you even cut a board to build one, or buy one.
The Roubo bench is a style that has been around for a couple of centuries. The plans that I was looking at are close enough to what I want that I'm sure I can tweak them to suit myself. It's a split top with a tool slot in the center, I would like it just a little wider with a tray rather than a slot. I'm sure that I could pull it off without plans but $24 is a pretty small portion of the cost. I expect if it were built with all purchased materials it would be over $1000. I'm hoping for $500 mostly for vice hardware and various hold downs and dogs.
 

sprucegum

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Sometimes I get a idea in my head that just won't go away. The weather forecast is hot and humid for at least another week and the shop stays realitivlly cool until mid afternoon, the workbench must start to preserve my sanity. After taking inventory of my dry lumber I believe I have enough as long as I mix species. This will use up a lot of odds and ends and make room for more. I don't think that the Roubo bench is quite what I want but I will borrow some features from it. I am primarily a power tool woodworker so the stability of the massive 5+" top is not necessary and it would not work well with my modern vices. I'm still sketching idea on paper and in my head but I think I will start laminating some 5/4 birch for the legs this week. Maybe @woodtickgreg with inspire me by finishing his 😂.
 

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Sometimes I get an idea in my head that just won't go away. The weather forecast is hot and humid for at least another week and the shop stays realitivlly cool until mid afternoon, the workbench must start to preserve my sanity. After taking inventory of my dry lumber I believe I have enough as long as I mix species. This will use up a lot of odds and ends and make room for more. I don't think that the Roubo bench is quite what I want but I will borrow some features from it. I am primarily a power tool woodworker so the stability of the massive 5+" top is not necessary and it would not work well with my modern vices. I'm still sketching idea on paper and in my head but I think I will start laminating some 5/4 birch for the legs this week. Maybe @woodtickgreg with inspire me by finishing his 😂.
No reason @woodtickgreg can’t wrap up his workbench now that he‘s RETIRED! Chuck
 

phinds

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Hm ... 4" thick seems excessive unless you're planning on whacking things on it with a sledge hammer :smile:
 

Arn213

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Hm ... 4" thick seems excessive unless you're planning on whacking things on it with a sledge hammer :smile:
4” thick is used for surfaces that uses 2 x 4 or 1 x 4 glued up so the quarter sawn side edge is facing upwards. Reclaimed material for reuse I always found intriguing like hard maple old bowling alley surfaces.

I had a workbench out of laminated birch that was about 42” x 96”. I used an A frame base and created drawers and shelf storage underneath for long lumber and for tools.
 
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sprucegum

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Hm ... 4" thick seems excessive unless you're planning on whacking things on it with a sledge hammer :smile:
I thought it was a over kill, mine will be ,2.5" which will work out perfect for one vice that I, the other will need a small shim.
 

Arn213

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I toyed with this version too- a hybrid of sort with an extension at one end that travels in and out since the limited and premium space available in the city.

IMG_3200.jpeg

IMG_3199.jpeg
 

Mike1950

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Nothing wrong with more mass in bench. Sorta is builders choice. Mine is think 3" hard Maple.
But then again nobody needs to waste time building a bench, nor segmented turning, live edge, non functional turning, why build a box when cardboard or plastic is cheaper and and lot less work... Why? Why buy a duck call, a duck is much cheaper and considerably easier to operate...
WHY? cause it is my/whomever wood and they get to do what they damn well please cause it is theirs.. it is USA....
 

Arn213

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Nothing wrong with more mass in bench. Sorta is builders choice. Mine is think 3" hard Maple.
But then again nobody needs to waste time building a bench, nor segmented turning, live edge, non functional turning, why build a box when cardboard or plastic is cheaper and and lot less work... Why? Why buy a duck call, a duck is much cheaper and considerably easier to operate...
WHY? cause it is my/whomever wood and they get to do what they damn well please cause it is theirs.. it is USA....
I happened to gravitate to the traditional
form, natural materials, proportion, ratio of old school design- even though I was trained as a modernist. Most of that is from what was around me and most of our work was traditional as far as interiors. I have done work at The Dakota and once you see old school Victorian and Edwardian details from the quarter sawn oak flooring, the stenciling, the stained glass paneling (doors & windows), massive oak sliding doors that disappears into the walls, built in wood shutters that disappeared into the casing paneling when not in use, 12-15” tall base mouldings, old ceiling plaster moldings, original over door details, doors & trim, wood paneling, millwork, mantle fireplaces and that lingering “aroma” from old wood- you do end up having more appreciation and much respect to the craftsman, woodworker, designer and architects of that time because of the details, craftsman ship, time, effort and creative juice they put in a project.
 
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Mike1950

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I happened to gravitate to the traditional
form, natural materials, proportion, ratio of old school design- even though I was trained as a modernist. Most of that is from what was around me and most of our work was traditional as far as interiors. I have done work at The Dakota and once you see old school Victorian and Edwardian details from the quarter sawn oak flooring, the stenciling, the stained glass paneling (doors & windows), massive oak sliding doors that disappears into the walls, built in wood shutters that disappeared into the casing paneling when not in use, 12-15” tall base mouldings, old ceiling plaster moldings, original over door details, doors & trim, wood paneling, millwork, mantle fireplaces and that lingering “aroma” from old wood- you do end up having more appreciation and much respect to the craftsman, woodworker, designer and architects of that time because of the details, craftsman ship, time, effort and creative juice they put in a project.
We have the Patsy Clark mansion here. Built in 1891 i think. I lived less than a block from it in 70s. Could take the tour for a buck. Did it many times. Largest residential Tiffany stained glass window in giant stairway. 10' Tiffany grandfather clock. Sandstone from Italy. The trim is qs white oak and art by itself. Gopher wood heads on wall in dining room, carved by monks. Each a different one. Water tank in tower so it had running water.
Clark struck rich in the silver valley of Idaho.
You and I see a lot of the same picture as far as craftsmanship goes, well...... except Picasso.
 

Arn213

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Dave- you have a list of criteria and requirements to what you want built so it can function for you? What you can live with and what you can’t live without. I did read some of it. Type of base? Overall dimensions- length, width and height?

Arn
 
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