# Craftsman 113.298031



## bwallac7

Out with the new, in with the old?





 



I just bought this old Craftsman 10" table saw from one of my wife's friends. The friend said it belonged to her father who was into woodworking when she was growing up. He passed away a little while ago and the house he lived in is in the process of being sold. Nobody wanted it, so I picked it up for $60.

Some of my findings about the saw.

The motor still works
The blade seems to be aligned appropriately
The table top seems to be flat. I checked it with a framing square. Cast iron
Came with the blade guard, miter gauge (very little to no play), fence
The blade lift is slow and difficult.
My plan is to restore this old saw and incorporate into my shop. I've never taken on a project like this before, so hopefully I will not mess this up too bad. If people are interested I will post updates as I go along. I'm really excited about this.




Model number.


 
Motor. Came with a belt. Just had to take it off to get it out of the door. 


 
Random hole in the side. Poor man's dust collection?


 
Undercarriage



Miter gauge. Also came a fence.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 2


----------



## woodtickgreg

That is a far better saw than that ryobi! I have basicly the same saw. I replaced the crappy plastic hand wheels with metal ones I found in the grizzly catalogue. Clean the screws for the blade raise and tilt and wax them, do not use oil as all the dust will stick to them and gum it up again. You have some work ahead of you to get the top cleaned up and derusted. Wax it after your done. I had my top reground. The original grind like yours was a Blanchard grind, mine now has a nice micro grind and it's as smooth as can be. Make sure the set screw us tight on the motor pulley, ask me how I know that, lol, I have replaced many keys for that pully.
Edit: I also replaced the pos fence with a "T" square type, that was a manor improvement.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## bwallac7

How would I get a "micro grind"?


----------



## Tony




----------



## Ray D

I started with the exact same Sears saw. My wife purchased it for me the year we got married. Yep....hand wheels are crap! That saw served me well. I always had to double check the fence due to the fact it didn't always lock parallel to the blade.


----------



## Lou Currier




----------



## Ray D

Lou Currier said:


>



How ya feeling Lou?


----------



## Lou Currier

Ray D said:


> How ya feeling Lou?



UGH

Reactions: Sincere 3


----------



## TimR

Mine essentially as well, you're in good company. Got mine back about 1990 I think. Used to get frustrated in beginning, my fault for not adjusting everything to true it up. Once I took the time to tune it up, works like a champ. Most used table in my shop.


----------



## woodtickgreg

bwallac7 said:


> How would I get a "micro grind"?


I stripped the saw down and took the top to a grind shop near me. I think it cost about a hundred bucks back when I did it, but was well worth it! Around the detroit metro area it is a tool and machinery, fab shop mecca. Finding a grind shop was easy. Most new saws have a very fine grind now instead of blanchard grinding.


----------



## Herb G.

I have that exact same saw. Mine is in a little better shape though. ;>)


----------



## bwallac7

I started taking the saw apart starting with the fence railing. Finding a lot of these. Cross threaded nuts and bolts. Gonna have to replace a few. Might replace all.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Herb G.

Standard 3/8 X 16 bolts.
You might have to drill out the holes a bit.
Lemme know if I can help.


----------



## woodman6415

Very first table saw I purchased in 1974 when I started building cabinets .. used for many years in my cabinet shop .. I did change out front and back angle iron rails to open 50" and yes every time I set the fence would have to check back for squareness ... in 1995 I purchased a jet 10" cabinet saw.. used the craftsman for milling drawer sides for many years .. finally purchased a 10 jet contractors saw for drawer sides ... retired the craftsman ...but still have it in storage .. could get it out tomorrow and be able to use it ...


----------



## bwallac7

All but the table mounts are just nuts and bolts that I can replace vs having to re-tap everything. 

More disassembly today. The only thing that is hemming me up is the blade height mechanism. It is completely seized up. I'm trying to disable it, but it's not budging. Any tips? Thanks


----------



## ClintW

Spray in alot of WD-40. The rotation point maybe seized.



woodtickgreg said:


> That is a far better saw than that ryobi! I have basicly the same saw. I replaced the crappy plastic hand wheels with metal ones I found in the grizzly catalogue. Clean the screws for the blade raise and tilt and wax them, do not use oil as all the dust will stick to them and gum it up again. You have some work ahead of you to get the top cleaned up and derusted. Wax it after your done. I had my top reground. The original grind like yours was a Blanchard grind, mine now has a nice micro grind and it's as smooth as can be. Make sure the set screw us tight on the motor pulley, ask me how I know that, lol, I have replaced many keys for that pully.
> Edit: I also replaced the pos fence with a "T" square type, that was a manor improvement.



Can you provide pictures of the T fence?

Just picked up an identical saw. Have used one in the past and knew the fence and guide was the biggest issue with this saw.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Tony

I would suggest using a penetrating oil spray. I like PB Blaster. Tony

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## bwallac7

Yea I got some of that soaking on it now... We shall see.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## bwallac7

Ok, so I ended up using a parts puller to get the saw arbor bearing housing out. I picked it up at harbor frieght in a kit they had. Of course it wasn't a perfect product, but I was able to get the job done with some vise grips. I had to shorten one of the arms to fit near the casting properly. If you look the picture, its the arm on the left.




Of course just pulling out didn't work the way I thought it would. I ended up damaging the housing a little bit, but not is a way to make it inoperable.





What I ended up having to do is beating the housing back and forth with slight pressure on the puller. I would have to adjust the puller ever so often. 



The housing finally loosened enough for me to pull the rest of it off with slight pressure on the puller. I ended up having to take the tip off of the puller to get it in the hole. 



Now with the saw completely disassembled, time to clean and lube. Any suggestions on lubricant or grease? Saw in another video about candle wax with grafite mix in it.


----------



## Tony

I use dry graphite powder on mine. Got it at a lock & key company. Dry so it won't attract sawdust and gum up in there. Tony

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

I woyld emery cloth that pivot shaft well and the inside of the mating part and then wax it well, a little grease on the shaft wouldnt be a bad thing. But on everything else just wax.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## bwallac7

It's been over a year since I worked in this? Wow.... 

So I moved this past year and haven't spent any time on this table saw.. So sad... unfortunately I did lose some of the hardware in the move. But never the less, I am sure I will find the parts online or later down the road. I will be jump starting this again soon.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

Many projects of mine got put on hold after a divorce and moving, the got a job working crazy hours. I know what happens to shop time and projects when things like that get in the way.


----------

