# Drill Chuck Tightening



## Johnturner (Aug 14, 2018)

At this stage of my life I find I need something that will help me tighten the keyed chucks on the drills I use. I have a keyless chuck but I have the same problem.
Is there something I can make or buy?
Thanks
John


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## rocky1 (Aug 15, 2018)



Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 2


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## rocky1 (Aug 15, 2018)

Joking aside... What kind of problems are you having tightening the chucks John?


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## woodtickgreg (Aug 15, 2018)

I'm gonna guess he needs something with a longer handle. On a keyless chuck a strapwrench would work and not mar up the chuck. Simple solution for a keyed chuck is to just weld a longer handle bar to it for more leverage.


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## kweinert (Aug 15, 2018)

Or, given a lack of welding, would something like epoxy or JBWeld work as well if he had a piece of tubing that would fit over the current key handle?


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## woodtickgreg (Aug 15, 2018)

kweinert said:


> Or, given a lack of welding, would something like epoxy or JBWeld work as well if he had a piece of tubing that would fit over the current key handle?


Yup that would work, but it would need to be thick walled tubing so it wouldn't bend.


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## Schroedc (Aug 15, 2018)

They also make a T shaped key, usually with four different sized heads, those give a lot of leverage and if you have different sized Chuck's it's nice to have one to fit them all


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## ripjack13 (Aug 15, 2018)

You can also try making an o ring out of wood that screws tight to the chuck. It will give you more oompf to turn it tighter....


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## ripjack13 (Aug 16, 2018)




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## ripjack13 (Aug 16, 2018)




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## ripjack13 (Aug 16, 2018)




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## ripjack13 (Aug 16, 2018)




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## Johnturner (Aug 17, 2018)

rocky1 said:


> Joking aside... What kind of problems are you having tightening the chucks John?



Rocky
Not having the hand strength to tighten the chuck so the bit doesn't spin when drilling


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## ripjack13 (Aug 17, 2018)

John, did you see my pics above? That may work for the keyless chuck. 
For a keyed chuck, you could cut the head off the chuck key and have it welded to a longer thicker rod. Maybe someone here could make it for you?


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## rocky1 (Aug 17, 2018)

Granted it doesn't resolve your problems entirely John, but the Dewalt Drill Bit set here, same one I picked up at Lowes, helps alleviate that. If you read through the description over on the side... 

*- Unique, no-spin shank keeps bits securely seated to save you time and frustration.*

Shanks on the majority of these bits have 3 flat sides to fit the jaws in the chuck. 



*On the chuck key*... If you don't have access to a welder, measure the shank on the chuck key, pick a good solid hardwood pen blank drill a hole that the shank will fit. Using your moto-tool or chisel a cut a groove, (_you could drill a number of holes and knock them out with a screw driver too_), for the handles on the chuck key to fit, JB Weld in place. 

If concerned you might get enough torque on it to split the wood, before you JB Weld it, mount it in your lathe and turn the blank so it will slide inside a piece of 1/2" copper tubing. Then slip the copper tubing on from either end when you JB Weld. I'd scuff up the inside of the pipe and the blank with some coarse sand paper, and smear a little JB Weld over the blank to fix it solid. You could drill a hole for the chuck key shank, in the tubing, then cut the tubing through the middle of the hole, and slide it together around the shank as well. Just remember you're going to lose the width of your saw blade, so step your bit up a size or two, or plan on filing/sanding/grinding the hole a little to make a tight joint. 

I'm with Marc on the wood O-Ring. Handle might be nice for additional torque, but if it gets away from you, it's really gonna hurt! However, one could make a couple and mount to the work bench, then make a round one for portable use.


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## Mike Mills (Aug 18, 2018)

I would use channel locks on the keyless and not worry about marking up the chuck.
For the keyed, I would tighten finger tight then get my appropriate deep socket with about a 3" extension (about 5" total?); slip it over for lots of leverage. Should only need to move it 1/4 turn at the most if it is already finger tight. Deep sockets normally start at about 5/32 then increase by 16ths.


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## Johnturner (Aug 18, 2018)

Mike Mills said:


> I would use channel locks on the keyless and not worry about marking up the chuck.
> For the keyed, I would tighten finger tight then get my appropriate deep socket with about a 3" extension (about 5" total?); slip it over for lots of leverage. Should only need to move it 1/4 turn at the most if it is already finger tight. Deep sockets normally start at about 5/32 then increase by 16ths.


Mike I don't understand how a socket would attach to a chuck??


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## Johnturner (Aug 18, 2018)

woodtickgreg said:


> I'm gonna guess he needs something with a longer handle. On a keyless chuck a strapwrench would work and not mar up the chuck. Simple solution for a keyed chuck is to just weld a longer handle bar to it for more leverage.





Mike Mills said:


> I would use channel locks on the keyless and not worry about marking up the chuck.
> For the keyed, I would tighten finger tight then get my appropriate deep socket with about a 3" extension (about 5" total?); slip it over for lots of leverage. Should only need to move it 1/4 turn at the most if it is already finger tight. Deep sockets normally start at about 5/32 then increase by 16ths.



Two good ideas for the keyless.


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## Mike Mills (Aug 18, 2018)

Johnturner said:


> Mike I don't understand how a socket would attach to a chuck??


I meant to slip over the arm on the chuck key to add leverage. If you have a small length of 1/4 id steel pipe it would work just as well. Cheap to buy, maybe a 6" length? (all of my 1/4" is either plastic, pvc, or copper all of which would be too weak).


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## ripjack13 (Aug 18, 2018)




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## SENC (Aug 18, 2018)

Ken, Mike, Greg, Colin, and Rocky have made good contributions to this thread - folks like these are why I keep coming back.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Johnturner (Aug 21, 2018)

Thank guys!


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## Sprung (Aug 21, 2018)

Funny thing - I can't remember where I saw it, but I came across this tip/image earlier today.

Reactions: Like 1


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## rocky1 (Aug 21, 2018)

That would work and be quite simple too.


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## Robert Baccus (Aug 31, 2018)

A large hammer??


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## Johnturner (Oct 3, 2018)

Guys
I made this a few weeks ago. Sprung was on the right trak
Thanks


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## gman2431 (Oct 3, 2018)

Johnturner said:


> Guys
> I made this a few weeks ago. Sprung was on the right trak
> ThanksView attachment 153666



Shoulda made it round first on your lathe!

Reactions: Agree 1


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