# Spalted sycamore



## Mabren2 (Jan 2, 2016)

Made this little guy yesterday. Spalted sycamore with a couple of worm hole accents. It's around 6"+x2"+. I think this makes my 4th bowl. Was just kind of experimenting, and trying a shape I hadn't done before. I left it a little thick because I saw evidence of a hairline crack, and I didn't want to start the new year off slinging tools across the shop when it blew up. I really liked the character of the wood though. It doesn't have a finish on it. Turned out to be a fun little practice project. Feel free to point out things for me to work on, it's all a learning experience for me anyway. Thanks for looking! (Warning: crappy cell phone pics!)

http://i1231.Rule #2/albums/ee518/mabren2/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160101_193632775.jpg

http://i1231.Rule #2/albums/ee518/mabren2/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160101_213513.jpg

http://i1231.Rule #2/albums/ee518/mabren2/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160101_212945.jpg

Reactions: Like 8 | EyeCandy! 3 | Way Cool 3


----------



## barry richardson (Jan 2, 2016)

Thats sweet Matthew! Awesome piece of wood...

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------



## Kevin (Jan 2, 2016)

Love that sick syc. Nice turn.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Jan 2, 2016)

Nice piece, I would put some kind of an oil finish on it though.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Mabren2 (Jan 2, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Nice piece, I would put some kind of an oil finish on it though.



Yeah, I do plan to finish it at some point. Will WOP, work ok on spalted woods?


----------



## gman2431 (Jan 2, 2016)

Looks nice! Wipe on will work, expect many coats until it builds up.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## duncsuss (Jan 2, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> Yeah, I do plan to finish it at some point. Will WOP, work ok on spalted woods?


As Cody said, it works well -- but the first few coats will soak right into the wood. Don't be tempted to rush onto the next coat, the stuff that's soaked in still needs time to cure. Curing requires oxygen, so slapping another coat on too quickly prevents the stuff that's penetrated deep from curing. DAMHIKT.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


----------



## Mabren2 (Jan 2, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> As Cody said, it works well -- but the first few coats will soak right into the wood. Don't be tempted to rush onto the next coat, the stuff that's soaked in still needs time to cure. Curing requires oxygen, so slapping another coat on too quickly prevents the stuff that's penetrated deep from curing. DAMHIKT.



Haha, thanks for the heads up! I only have the WOP and rattle can spar that I use on my calls, and I'm definitely not going to try to spray it.


----------



## duncsuss (Jan 2, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> Haha, thanks for the heads up!


There's no sense both of us making that mistake ...

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## Nature Man (Jan 3, 2016)

That bowl has a ton of character! It's a beaut, and will be even better when you complete the finishing. Chuck

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Jan 3, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> Yeah, I do plan to finish it at some point. Will WOP, work ok on spalted woods?


Yup, sure will.  The guys advice above is sound advice.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## David Hill (Jan 3, 2016)

Poly works well, but have found that when used on light colored woods that it tends to yellow. It is still my finish of choice b/c of its durability.
Lacquer doesn't seem to yellow as much-- preserves the light color better.
Nice turn btw!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## ironman123 (Jan 3, 2016)

Great looking bowl.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Jim Beam (Jan 3, 2016)

Nicely done! That's a beautiful piece of wood, and a favorite shape of mine. I prefer it with a flat rim, parallel to the horizon line.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------

