# Finishing cocobolo



## Brain M

hey guys, I just finished a knife with some cocobolo scales on it and was wondering what the best thing to use for brining out the luster and color of the cocobolo. A wood paste wax? Wood furniture polish? Thanks guys, Brian

Reactions: Like 2 | EyeCandy! 1


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## NYWoodturner

Brian - I use Tru-Oil. You might have trouble getting it to stick initially because of the natural oil in the coco. If you run into that problem try wiping down with DNA or acetone just before applying the finish.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## Jim Beam

Show us the knife dude!

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1 | Agree 1


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## Brain M

Here's one. More to come

Reactions: Like 4 | Thank You! 1 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 2


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## SENC

Scott's suggestion of tru-oil is a good one. I like oils on coco - I prefer (raw) tung oil, but boiled linseed oil or blo based products like tru'oil are generally good, too.

One thing to try before applying though is to just simply rub the piece firmly and vigorously a few times over a few days. That will help release the natural oils in the coco and that might give you a natural sheen you like without any additives. If that doesn't give the result you want, as Scott suggested an acetone wipe will be necessary before applying anything else as coco oils will have resaturated the surface wood.

Oils like heat, so when I apply raw tung or blo I rub it in (liberally), let it sit, then rub it back out to remove the excess just before it becomes tacky (different with each oil, ranging from 5-10 mins to an hour). Repeat every 24 hours until it isn't soaking anymore in. Cure time after that depends in the oil - shorter if it has varnish added (tru-oil), longer if a raw oil.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


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## TRfromMT

An alternative is to coat it with wax less shellac before the tru oil. That's how I have done pistol and knife grips. The shellac seals in the natural oils and allows the tru oil to adhere.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## TRfromMT

Also, if you have any scraps from making the handles, I'd try finishing those first. Figure out what works. Coco is tricky.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Steve Smith

I am wholly against using oil based finishes on pieces like cocobolo. Oil based finishes dry by oxidation and that means that they darken much more quickly than evaporative finishes.

My preference for oily woods is lacquer (pre-cat is the best IMO) where contact wear isn't much of an issue (jewelry boxes, etc). For a more durable finish on knives, et al, I prefer waterbourne finishes, since pre-cat is a pain unless you are doing a lot of pieces to make it worth the effort, as it is durable and easy to apply and rubs down to a nice sheen like lacquer.

http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-finishes-works/


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## Blueglass

I've had Cocobolo that took 3 months to dry with Tru oil. I tend to hit it with shellac first and then oil.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## TRfromMT

^^^This. Super easy and great results.


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## Brain M

Thanks guys! I'll try the shellac on the next one!


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## TRfromMT

Brian,
One thing I forgot to mention, you will want to find dewaxed shellac. You'll have to hunt for it a little bit, not typically at your home depot store. I found some at a furniture finishing store. Or you'll have to order the dry flakes and mix your own.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tony

@El Guapo is a Coco expert, let's see what he has to say. Tony

Reactions: Agree 1


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## El Guapo

Coco is a frustrating wood to finish, but if you have a buffing wheel you can try just buffing the natural oils in it to a nice shine. And I agree with wiping it down with a little DNA or acetone right before finish if you go that way. I would suggest buffing first to see if you like a more natura finish.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## phinds

I agree w/ Les and Tony. Dewaxed shellac is 100% the thing to use for cocobolo, at least as a base coat or two. As has already been said, it seals in the natural oils and lets you put on other finishes if you want. First time I tried polyurethane on cocobolo it took months to dry but after I learned to base-coat w/ dewaxed shellac, I never had any problems.

For shop tools like lathe tool handles, I just buff it. It really doesn't need a finish.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 3


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## Spinartist

phinds said:


> I agree w/ Les and Tony. Dewaxed shellac is 100% the thing to use for cocobolo, at least as a base coat or two. As has already been said, it seals in the natural oils and lets you put on other finishes if you want. First time I tried polyurethane on cocobolo it took months to dry but after I learned to base-coat w/ dewaxed shellac, I never had any problems.
> 
> For shop tools like lathe tool handles, I just buff it. It really doesn't need a finish.
> View attachment 120159




Cocobolo tool handles!!!  Now you're just being silly!!

Reactions: Agree 2


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