# More Bandsaw talk



## DaveHawk (Jun 6, 2016)

I have an old delta 14" 93.5 " blade. I have a couple dozen cut to make on snakewood but just can't seem to justify making the jump to carbide tip @$160 a pop. 
I ordered a fence , I plan on using this saw a lot .


If it worth it ? 
What blades are recommended ?


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## Schroedc (Jun 6, 2016)

I've got the same basic saw. I use a lot of the 1/2 inch 3 or 4 TPI Olson blades on it, They're cheap, do the job and if you wreck one you don't feel bad pitching one. If I'm going to cut stuff I know will eat a blade like Osage and such I cut up everything else first to get some good use out of it and then cut the hard stuff before changing the blade.

@Kevin just went carbide for some hard burl and sounded like he loved it.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Kevin (Jun 6, 2016)

$160 for a carbide blade is worth every penny if it's as good as mine. But be forewarned - once you experience it you will never settle for anything less.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

I've got an old Rockwell 14" basically what you have. It's been a great saw for me. I use Carter blades, about $20 a piece. Normally I run a 3/8" on it, but I keep a 5/8" on hand for Osage, etc. I also keep an old "beater" blade around for rough cuts that I know would kill a new blade. Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## kweinert (Jun 6, 2016)

I'm trying to sort out how to get a 3/16" blade centered on my 17" bandsaw. Seems to be much more finicky than the wider blades.

Going to try my hand at a bandsaw box and at the moment I'm not looking forward to blade changes. Makes a hell of a 'whang' noise when it walks off the wheel - and that's without even turning it on as I haven't gotten that far yet.


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

I buy supercut blue and their gold. I use the blue for regular burl and the gold for cuts where I want better finish. I cut a lot of burl myself and have a carbide tipped. Will not use it on burl- too many rocks and sand In burl i cut. Rather sacrifice a $13 blue steel blade. The gold is double the price.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

kweinert said:


> I'm trying to sort out how to get a 3/16" blade centered on my 17" bandsaw. Seems to be much more finicky than the wider blades.
> 
> Going to try my hand at a bandsaw box and at the moment I'm not looking forward to blade changes. Makes a hell of a 'whang' noise when it walks off the wheel - and that's without even turning it on as I haven't gotten that far yet.



check and see if your wheels are coplaner. Probably that is your problem.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Kevin (Jun 6, 2016)

Dave, what is the blade width? If it's a 3/4" it's sometimes difficult to get a 14" to tension it properly on a 14" saw.

Now I'll be the heretic about coplanar vs parallel. 

I think coplanar is given too much weight as if it's a magic bullet or that all wheels muct be coplanar before proper blade tracking can be achieved. The important thing is that the blade surfaces on the wheels should be parallel to each other, and that they both be perpendicular to the plane of blade travel. If the wheel rims are flat then that's the only time it require them to be on parallel axes. But they still don't have to be coplanar (and usually aren't after adjustments anyway). If they aren't parallel the blade will ride more forward on one wheel than it does the other. The wheels need to be coplanar only if it's required that the blade ride in the same position on both wheels. That might be the case if the wheels are hard and the teeth need to sit proud of the rim. That's the case with metal cutting band saws but not with most of the soft tires of wood cutting saws.

If the rims are crowned like mine are, coplanar wheels are unnecessary (and unachievable usually when proper tracking has been adjusted) since the crown allows the blade to seek the position on each wheel where the contact surfaces are parallel and perpendicular. Of course there's a limit to how far out the wheels can be, but if the blade position on the wheels is stable i.e it tracks consistently without wandering, it has found the location on the crowned surfaces that meets the parallel/perpendicular requirements.

In sum, if your wheel surfaces are flat, the wheels need to be parallel. If the blade needs to ride on a specific spot on the flat wheel, then the wheels need to be coplanar.

If your wheel surfaces are crowned, and the blade is tracking properly, you're as good as you can be and the wheels almost certainly cannot be complanar.


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

I can tell you my wheels are not coplaner but track and cut true. Tony


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## Kevin (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> I can tell you my wheels are not coplaner but track and cut true. Tony



Most bandsaw in a woodshop that are tracking properly aren't even close to coplanar.


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Kevin said:


> Most bandsaw in a woodshop that are tracking properly aren't even close to coplanar.




It's funny, if I adjust mine where it is coplaner, the top wheel scrapes on the back housing.


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## DaveHawk (Jun 6, 2016)

so basically, looking a 5 regular steel blades to the cost of 1 carbide tip blade. I would think if I bought a carbide tip that I use it only for the harder woods like snakewood and Brazilian rosewood cuts 1st and then switch back to steels blade. I don't mind spending the money if the product is top shelf and quality when it comes to tools , with in reason of course LOL


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Dave, I don't know that you can get a carbide blade that size. As I understand, they flex less and won't curve tight enough to use on tires that small. Let me know though, it's something I would consider doing also. Tony


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## Schroedc (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> Dave, I don't know that you can get a carbide blade that size. As I understand, they flex less and won't curve tight enough to use on tires that small. Let me know though, it's something I would consider doing also. Tony



Lenox and Laguna make a 93 1/2 x 3/4 carbide blade that should run fine on a 14 incher (And I'm sure there are others, those were just the ones I know of offhand). I had one on mine once and what killed it was blowing a bearing and losing a wheel at speed. I run wide and stiff 1 inchers made for metal cutting on mine all the time without an issue and those things are pretty hard and stiff.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Schroedc (Jun 6, 2016)

And it wasn't the blade's fault, I should have replaced the bearing way earlier but tried to limp along.


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> Lenox and Laguna make a 93 1/2 x 3/4 carbide blade that should run fine on a 14 incher (And I'm sure there are others, those were just the ones I know of offhand). I had one on mine once and what killed it was blowing a bearing and losing a wheel at speed. I run wide and stiff 1 inchers made for metal cutting on mine all the time without an issue and those things are pretty hard and stiff.



Colin, how do they cut on curves? I rarely resaw on mine, most of what I'm cutting is 1-1/2" but I would love a smoother cut. You've seen my Texas cutting boards, I spend a lot of time sanding curved edges! Tony


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## Schroedc (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> Colin, how do they cut on curves? I rarely resaw on mine, most of what I'm cutting is 1-1/2" but I would love a smoother cut. You've seen my Texas cutting boards, I spend a lot of time sanding curved edges! Tony



I cut very few curves, I will say with one of those wide blades in my saw you cut some HUGE circles as they don't want to curve that tight. If I do need to cut curves or smaller circles I throw a 1/4 inch or narrower blade in there. As far as the finish, The metal cutting blades have a fair amount of set to the teeth and don't leave that nice a finish. Have you thought about a scroll saw with a fine blade for that work?


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> I cut very few curves, I will say with one of those wide blades in my saw you cut some HUGE circles as they don't want to curve that tight. If I do need to cut curves or smaller circles I throw a 1/4 inch or narrower blade in there. As far as the finish, The metal cutting blades have a fair amount of set to the teeth and don't leave that nice a finish. Have you thought about a scroll saw with a fine blade for that work?



A scroll saw is just too slow for me. (Or maybe I'm too slow with a scroll saw!) I've used wide blade meant for cutting meat, probably about the same as what you use. I was thinking of carbide blades.


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

DaveHawk said:


> so basically, looking a 5 regular steel blades to the cost of 1 carbide tip blade. I would think if I bought a carbide tip that I use it only for the harder woods like snakewood and Brazilian rosewood cuts 1st and then switch back to steels blade. I don't mind spending the money if the product is top shelf and quality when it comes to tools , with in reason of course LOL


I think it would be more like 10 blue steel. My 133" are $13 and change. My carbide tip I use for clean mass cutting. also like it for dovetail clean out - on hand cut dovetails. has a wider square kerf. I think it really depends on what your use is- at least for me.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> I think it would be more like 10 blue steel. My 133" are $13 and change. My carbide tip I use for clean mass cutting. also like it for dovetail clean out - on hand cut dovetails. has a wider square kerf. I think it really depends on what your use is- at least for me.



Mike, did you use a carbide on your Rockwell? How did you like it?


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## DaveHawk (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> Dave, I don't know that you can get a carbide blade that size. As I understand, they flex less and won't curve tight enough to use on tires that small. Let me know though, it's something I would consider doing also. Tony



I just look at the big wheels and the rims are almost flat. I've never really had any problem with taking the blade off and putting it back on. All seems to roll together nice.


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> Mike, did you use a carbide on your Rockwell? How did you like it?



I have used all kinds of blades on rockwell- I have had it for almost 15 yrs. The carbide blade I have is for rockwell. I do like it. they stay sharp a very long time sawing clean wood

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> I have used all kinds of blades on rockwell- I have had it for almost 15 yrs. The carbide blade I have is for rockwell. I do like it. they stay sharp a very long time sawing clean wood



How are they compared to steel blades on cutting curves?


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

I think The one I have would stink at cutting curves. It is I think 3/4 and would not cut a tight curve. you need narrow to cut a tight curve. I think I have an 1/8" for my Jet and the rockwell had a 3/16 until I broke it

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tony (Jun 6, 2016)

@DaveHawk , sorry for hijacking your thread! Tony


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## DaveHawk (Jun 6, 2016)

Tony said:


> @DaveHawk , sorry for hijacking your thread! Tony


No problem here.
I just looked at the Lennox blades cost is $123 for my size.
*Laguna Resaw King *
are these a good blade ? What are others ?

another question, how do you know which are carbide tipped and which are all carbide. does the tip ones last long also. ?


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## JohnF (Jun 6, 2016)

I'd get the carbide tipped if there is in fact a choice. Solid carbide going around a 14" wheel wouldn't last long in my estimation.


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## Mike1950 (Jun 6, 2016)

DaveHawk said:


> No problem here.
> I just looked at the Lennox blades cost is $123 for my size.
> *Laguna Resaw King *
> are these a good blade ? What are others ?
> ...



I think @Kevin has the Laguna. They all are just solid tipped.


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## Kevin (Jun 6, 2016)

DaveHawk said:


> No problem here.
> I just looked at the Lennox blades cost is $123 for my size.
> *Laguna Resaw King *
> are these a good blade ? What are others ?
> ...



It's the only carbide blade I've used but I do know for a fact that the cheaper carbide blades are probably using the lower grade carbide tips. Like carbide rougers bits, there's a big difference between the lower grade carbide and the higher grade. You generally het what you pay for so don't think that just because it's carbide that it is automatically going to perform like one that costs $100 more.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DaveHawk (Jun 6, 2016)

There is not that much difference in price for the higher grade in my size, it's when youget to the really big blades the price goes way up
Thanks

Reactions: Like 1


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## DaveHawk (Jun 8, 2016)

Fence came in today, hopefully the carbide tip blade will arrive tomorrow. Anticipating and getting a little anxious to do some cutting.

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 2


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## DaveHawk (Jun 10, 2016)

So my son took the old blade off. I decided to buy new bearings and cooling pads. Jarrod took the bed off and showed me the broken rocker bed. I called Delta and the part had been discontinued and they gave me the name of a company that makes strike offs. So while I'm talking with the tech guy I'm also on EBay and found the original part at 1/3rd the price . After making that buy I felt good to have saved the bucks and sprung for a laguna 93.5 x 3/4" carbide tip blade. I need the larger blade for stright cuts. So by the end of next week I should be cutting again

Reactions: Like 1


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## barry richardson (Jun 11, 2016)

You can get lennox trimaster in 1/2 width, maybe even 3/8 they are the best blade I have ever used, but not cheap, around the same price range as the Resaw King....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Spinartist (Jun 22, 2016)

I use regular 3 or 4 tooth blades for by woodturning blanks . I used to toss them when dull till I saw how to sharpen them on the u-tube. Takes 8 to 10 min to sharpen a 127" blade & it cuts better than it did when new!! I can resharpen them 3 to 5 times before disgarding them.

Reactions: Informative 1 | Useful 1


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## DaveHawk (Jun 22, 2016)

Jarrod is a wis , guy can fix anything, has a mind that works . He took it apart and put it together 1st time. Everything lined up perfect. I don't know how he does it but with wverything he sets out to do. I've learned not to question him and just let him do his thing

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## DaveHawk (Jul 10, 2016)

New problem. The lowerwheel tire is spent and rides off the wheel. Ordered 2 new ones, should be back in service the 14th. 
Plus need to make a sled for ripping uneven logs.

Reactions: Like 1


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 22, 2016)

Carbide blades take a higher HP motor to work well. Carbide holds up much better than HS steel but is nowhere as sharp. I would suggest about 2x the standard HP unless the saw has already been upgraded.

Reactions: Like 1


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