# Chainsaw Help



## Twig Man

I would like to buy a chainsaw and would like yalls input. I would use it for cutting pieces of wood from trees people have already cut down and then for resaw. I cant resaw really big logs so what I would be cutting wouldnt be to large in diameter. I bought a poulan a couple of years ago and it lasted for a year with little use so I want be getting one of those. so if you could tell me what you think about brand and bar length that would be super and much appreciated as well. Also I dont want to break the bank LOL


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## Kevin

What diameter specifically would you say will be the max you'll cut?


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## Twig Man

Kevin said:


> What diameter specifically would you say will be the max you'll cut?



30 inches or so


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## JMC

From my own experience, I've had my Husqvarna 51 for about 12 years and we work the crap out of it. I paid close to 300.00 for it but well worth every cent. I beleive it came with a 21" bar. Good luck.


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## Mike1950

Bought - a 032 Stihl-20" bar I think in 2000. I would be more specific but I never see it anymore- I have 2 sons here-then again when I need it I have a sawyer to go along with saw. Great saw.


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## Dane Fuller

I bought a Stihl Farm Boss w/20" bar not long ago. I love it. Good power & easy starts. I posted about it. Here's a link to the thread. I haven't read it in a while. There might be some info in it for you.


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## woodtickgreg

I am partial to husky's also, I have a 365 that has plenty of power for a 20" bar. A quality chainsaw is not something you want to cheap out on. Purchase one from a power equipment dealer as they will set it up properly for you and not just hand you a box. No saw runs properly right out of the box, the carbs have to be adjusted and rpm set. huskvarna makes a consumer line and a pro line, but they don't say that anywhere. The big difference is consumer models have plastic crank cases and are prone to warping with hard use, a dealer will know the difference and reccomend the better models. Do not buy a chainsaw from a big box store, they are all consumer models and most are really cheap and what those of us in the power equipment buisness call disposable. Stihl and the bigger echo's are also very good saws, jonsred's to if you can find them, makita also makes a decent saw. My advice for a 30" log is 20" bar and at least 50cc powerhead. Buy the biggest powerhead that you can afford, you'll appreciate it when cutting with the grain.


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## davidgiul

I have owned Stihl and Huskies. Both are good saws. My current Husky has a 27 inch bar. Very happy with it. The long bar means I don't have to bend over all the time.


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## Twig Man

Thanks for the help fella's


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## Kevin

Don't buy by brand. All the major manufacturers that produce pro level saws make great saws. Instead of looking at the color or name tag, first determine what cc class you need, then compare models within those classes and see which one seems to be rated as among the best. A good place to go is arboristsite.com and read their chainsaw forums. It's easy to weed out the obvious brand guys and they are there in droves. SawTroll is a good guy to read as is nmurph. nmurph is a guy named Neil Murphy. I bought my modded & ported 346XP from him for half of what a new one costs and mine is the 50cc NE not the older 46cc OE (you need to know the difference). 

My favorite saws are the 346XP, 372XP, and 395Xp but my Dolamar P5100S is a screamer and it's still stock. In between the 5100/346 and the 372 is the 60cc class which is a hle in my arsenal (don't have a 60ish cc), and Stihl was making the best in that class with the MS361 until they inexplicably stopped making it in lieu of its weak replacement (reportedly) the 362. I was intending to get a 361 and dragged my feet too long and now have to try and find one on the used market if I ever want one, but it's highly unlikely you or me will ever find one at least for a decent price. 

In the 50cc class I also own a Dolmar P5100S as stated and I use it just almost as much as the 346XP. Dolmar is a German company which is owned by Makita. Dolmar makes saws for both companies. Most of the parts are interchangeable for the comparable models. The Dolmar 7900 has a cult following but it's probably more saw than you need.

Jonsered (part of the Husqvarna AB Group), Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita/Dolmar, Shindaiwa, Solo, they all make great saws it's just that some models are better than others in certain classes. Echo makes some great climbing saws but their larger saws cannot compete with the performance of some of the other Stihls/Huskies/Dolmar/J'reds. 

The biggest mistake you can make is reading and being influenced by someone who says something like "Man I bought a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and that thing was a POS! I threw it away and bought a Stihl MS 460 Magnum and man there's NO comparison!".

Heck no there's no comparison. The 455 Rancher is a homeowner saw not a pro level like the 460 Mag and the 460 has over 20 more cc's. So reviews like that are not reviews they are moronic statements. 

Now I have not answered your question yet I know, because I cannot. I won't presume to tell you what brand and model to buy, you have to decide that and you need to be patient while you eductae yourself. I tried to give you some basic info on how to avoid the "brand trap" and also the very important aspect of comparing a homeowner saw to a pro saw. Also to be considered is parts availability. Dolmar is a little hard but if you can do most of your own work as can I then just get the parts online and do the work yourself. If you cannot, buy a Stihl or Husky, and if you are buying based solely on parts and service Stihl would be the clear choice, you only need to decide which model is right for you. But Husky has a dealer network almost as prolific so parts are readily available. 

I'll see if Murph will come over here and give us a few more pointers. The saw he built for me is a fine saw and my new favorite for limbing. Maybe he has something that will fit your needs if so I bet you'll like the price compared to a new stock saw. I even buck with it when my arthritis makes the 372 too much of a chore and it does okay even though not really made for that role. 

Keep asking questions as you look for a saw and maybe we can help you narrow them down. P.S. If you do register as arboristsite it's best to read a while before posting. Asking "Which is better Stihl or Husky" will get you flamed and rightfully so.


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## Twig Man

Kevin said:


> Don't buy by brand. All the major manufacturers that produce pro level saws make great saws. Instead of looking at the color or name tag, first determine what cc class you need, then compare models within those classes and see which one seems to be rated as among the best. A good place to go is arboristsite.com and read their chainsaw forums. It's easy to weed the obvious brand guys and they are their in droves. SawTroll is a good guy to read as is nmurph. nmurph is a guy named Neil Murphy. I bought my modded & ported 346XP from him for half of what a new one costs and mine is the 50cc NE not the older 46cc OE (you need to know the difference).
> 
> My favorite saws are the 346XP, 372XP, and 395Xp but my Dolamar P5100S is a screamer and it's still stock. In between the 5100/346 and the 372 is the 60cc class which is a hle in my arsenal (don't have a 60ish cc), and Stihl was making the best in that class with the MS361 until they inexplicably stopped making it in lieu of its weak replacement (reportedly) the 362. I was intending to get a 361 and dragged my feet too long and now have to try and find one on the used market if I ever want one, but it's highly unlikely you or me will ever find one at least for a decent price.
> 
> In the 50cc class I also own a Dolmar P5100S as stated and I use it just almost as much as the 346XP. Dolmar is a German company which is owned by Makita. Dolmar makes saws for both companies. Most of the parts are interchangeable for the comparable models. The Dolmar 7900 has a cult following but it's probably more saw than you need.
> 
> Jonsered (part of the Husqvarna AB Group), Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita/Dolmar, Shindaiwa, Solo, they all make great saws it's just that some models are better than others in certain classes. Echo makes some great climbing saws but their larger saws cannot compete with the performance of some of the other Stihls/Huskies/Dolmar/J'reds.
> 
> The biggest mistake you can make is reading and being influenced by someone who says something like "Man I bought a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and that thing was a POS! I threw it away and bought a Stihl MS 460 Magnum and man there's NO comparison!".
> 
> Heck no there's no comparison. The 455 Rancher is a homeowner saw not a pro level like the 460 Mag and the 460 has over 20 more cc's. So reviews like that are not reviews they are moronic statements.
> 
> Now I have not answered your question yet I know, because I cannot. I won't presume to tell you what brand and model to buy, you have to decide that and you need to be patient while you eductae yourself. I tried to give you some basic info on how to avoid the "brand trap" and also the very important aspect of comparing a homeowner saw to a pro saw. Also to be considered is parts availability. Dolmar is a little hard but if you can do most of your own work as can I then just get the parts online and do the work yourself. If you cannot, buy a Stihl or Husky, and if you are buying based solely on parts and service Stihl would be the clear choice, you only need to decide which model is right for you. But Husky has a dealer network almost as prolific so parts are readily available.
> 
> I'll see if Murph will come over here and give us a few more pointers. The saw he built for me is a fine saw and my new favorite for limbing. Maybe he has something that will fit your needs if so I bet you'll like the price compared to a new stock saw. I even buck with it when my arthritis makes the 372 too much of a chore and it does okay even though not really made for that role.
> 
> Keep asking questions as you look for a saw and maybe we can help you narrow them down. P.S. If you do register as arboristsite it's best to read a while before posting. Asking "Which is better Stihl or Husky" will get you flamed and rightfully so.



Great reply Kevin. I do try to be informed before making a major purchase. Although buying the poulan wasnt a major purchase I sure got what I paid for.A piece of junk! So this time around I am buying for the long term and function. I will visit the site you suggested.


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## woodtickgreg

SonshineCalls said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't buy by brand. All the major manufacturers that produce pro level saws make great saws. Instead of looking at the color or name tag, first determine what cc class you need, then compare models within those classes and see which one seems to be rated as among the best. A good place to go is arboristsite.com and read their chainsaw forums. It's easy to weed the obvious brand guys and they are their in droves. SawTroll is a good guy to read as is nmurph. nmurph is a guy named Neil Murphy. I bought my modded & ported 346XP from him for half of what a new one costs and mine is the 50cc NE not the older 46cc OE (you need to know the difference).
> 
> My favorite saws are the 346XP, 372XP, and 395Xp but my Dolamar P5100S is a screamer and it's still stock. In between the 5100/346 and the 372 is the 60cc class which is a hle in my arsenal (don't have a 60ish cc), and Stihl was making the best in that class with the MS361 until they inexplicably stopped making it in lieu of its weak replacement (reportedly) the 362. I was intending to get a 361 and dragged my feet too long and now have to try and find one on the used market if I ever want one, but it's highly unlikely you or me will ever find one at least for a decent price.
> 
> In the 50cc class I also own a Dolmar P5100S as stated and I use it just almost as much as the 346XP. Dolmar is a German company which is owned by Makita. Dolmar makes saws for both companies. Most of the parts are interchangeable for the comparable models. The Dolmar 7900 has a cult following but it's probably more saw than you need.
> 
> Jonsered (part of the Husqvarna AB Group), Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita/Dolmar, Shindaiwa, Solo, they all make great saws it's just that some models are better than others in certain classes. Echo makes some great climbing saws but their larger saws cannot compete with the performance of some of the other Stihls/Huskies/Dolmar/J'reds.
> 
> The biggest mistake you can make is reading and being influenced by someone who says something like "Man I bought a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and that thing was a POS! I threw it away and bought a Stihl MS 460 Magnum and man there's NO comparison!".
> 
> Heck no there's no comparison. The 455 Rancher is a homeowner saw not a pro level like the 460 Mag and the 460 has over 20 more cc's. So reviews like that are not reviews they are moronic statements.
> 
> Now I have not answered your question yet I know, because I cannot. I won't presume to tell you what brand and model to buy, you have to decide that and you need to be patient while you eductae yourself. I tried to give you some basic info on how to avoid the "brand trap" and also the very important aspect of comparing a homeowner saw to a pro saw. Also to be considered is parts availability. Dolmar is a little hard but if you can do most of your own work as can I then just get the parts online and do the work yourself. If you cannot, buy a Stihl or Husky, and if you are buying based solely on parts and service Stihl would be the clear choice, you only need to decide which model is right for you. But Husky has a dealer network almost as prolific so parts are readily available.
> 
> I'll see if Murph will come over here and give us a few more pointers. The saw he built for me is a fine saw and my new favorite for limbing. Maybe he has something that will fit your needs if so I bet you'll like the price compared to a new stock saw. I even buck with it when my arthritis makes the 372 too much of a chore and it does okay even though not really made for that role.
> 
> Keep asking questions as you look for a saw and maybe we can help you narrow them down. P.S. If you do register as arboristsite it's best to read a while before posting. Asking "Which is better Stihl or Husky" will get you flamed and rightfully so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great reply Kevin. I do try to be informed before making a major purchase. Although buying the poulan wasnt a major purchase I sure got what I paid for.A piece of junk! So this time around I am buying for the long term and function. I will visit the site you suggested.
Click to expand...

Very well written Kevin, Kinda what I was trying to convey but you did it so much better. I'm not kidding, you really should get into writeing of some kind, you have a gift for it. P.S. the 372 is one of my favs too! Did you know that a 372 cyl will fit my 365? Now that would be a saw!


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## Kevin

Greg thank you for the kind words. 



woodtickgreg said:


> ...Did you know that a 372 cyl will fit my 365? Now that would be a saw!



No I didn't - I don't know very much about the 365. I guess this means that the 365 has a shorter stroke then?


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> Greg thank you for the kind words.
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...Did you know that a 372 cyl will fit my 365? Now that would be a saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I didn't - I don't know very much about the 365. I guess this means that the 365 has a shorter stroke then?
Click to expand...

I have heard of guys modding a 365 with a 372 cyl n piston, I always thought that would be a great saw if I ever needed to rebuild mine. When I was a tech in the home depot rental department I bought my 365 for a really cheap depreciated value, then I heard that the depot wasn't going to carry husky's anymore, so I rebuilt it from the crank bearings up, all new everything, while I still had a good inventory of parts, It'll probably outlast me! And yes the 365 is a short stroke screamer, If you look at one alongside a 372 It is much shorter and compact.


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## SawTroll

Kevin said:


> Greg thank you for the kind words.
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...Did you know that a 372 cyl will fit my 365? Now that would be a saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I didn't - I don't know very much about the 365. I guess this means that the 365 has a shorter stroke then?
Click to expand...


No, it doesn't, and the 365 is no more compact than the 372xp, except that most 372s in the US have the HD air filter/cover set-up. Both have a 36mm stroke.

The difference in the traditional versions is that the 365 has a smaller bore (48mm ws 50mm), and (by purpose) has less effective porting. There also are a 372xpw version, that has a 51.4mm bore, but not all xpws have that P&C.

With the current x-torq versions, both have the same basic 70.7cc engine (50mm), but the 365 has sort of a restrictor plate built in, that can be removed if you know what to do (I don't).

Apart from that, there are too little info here, to know what he really needs. :dunno:


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## Kevin

Hey guys I asked SawTroll to join and be our resident chainsaw guru so take advantage of it. I've been reading him for years over on arboristsite.com so if you have any questions now's the time to ask.

Thanks for coming onboard Troll - I'm sure John will be along to give you more information later. I have some questions too about my 395 and PS5100S but I'll start a new thread.


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## SawTroll

Kevin said:


> Hey guys I asked SawTroll to join and be our resident chainsaw guru so take advantage of it. I've been reading him for years over on arboristsite.com so if you have any questions now's the time to ask.
> 
> Thanks for coming onboard Troll - I'm sure John will be along to give you more information later. I have some questions too about my 395 and PS5100S but I'll start a new thread.





Well, I won't try to play any sort of guru, as I am not - but I plan to visit now and then, and see if there are something to post about.


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## Kevin

Yeah just being a little cheeky. We'll appreciate your input when you can.


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## Twig Man

Welcome Saw Troll! I would like a saw for cutting trees or limbs no more than 30 inches in diameter. I make turkey calls and toys and would like to take advantage of good lumber I see sitting on the side of the road being sent to the dump. I would be cutting 2 to 3 foot section and then cutting against the grain to semi square it up for my band saw. I will be using the saw weekly and will be cutting mainly hardwoods and maybe the occasionsal pine. If I need to give more information tell me what would be helpful to you. I just wanted to be informed and buy a good saw that would last for a while and do a good job. Thanks for joining and for your input!


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## SawTroll

SonshineCalls said:


> Welcome Saw Troll! I would like a saw for cutting trees or limbs no more than 30 inches in diameter. I make turkey calls and toys and would like to take advantage of good lumber I see sitting on the side of the road being sent to the dump. I would be cutting 2 to 3 foot section and then cutting against the grain to semi square it up for my band saw. I will be using the saw weekly and will be cutting mainly hardwoods and maybe the occasionsal pine. If I need to give more information tell me what would be helpful to you. I just wanted to be informed and buy a good saw that would last for a while and do a good job. Thanks for joining and for your input!



OK, that sounds like you would be best off with a professional saw of at least 70cc, and a 24" bar or so. Be aware that cutting against the grain (from the end) is very taxing on the saw, and demands a special ripping chain. It also is very time consuming, even with a large saw. Squaring off from the side ("noodling") is much easier on the saw, and is best done with a regular chisel chain.

All current (or reasonably new) 70cc+ saws from Husky, Jonsered, Stihl or Dolmar are fine, with an assortment of +/- compared to each other. Personal preferences often is decisive regarding model and brand.

Do you have any particular models in mind?


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## Kevin

If you can't find a new saw John check with Bailey's online and also Norwalk. I bought my first 395XP from Norwalk and they were running a great deal at that time I got it delievered for under $800 with 28" bar!

I found a great deal a Makita DCS 6401 (64cc) but Bailey's has a 79cc upgrade kit which they will install and send ready to rip for $719 with 20" bar. That is a LOT of saw for the money. The upgrade voids the warranty so you might just got with the 64cc for $599. Can't wait to hear what Niko has to say about that deal. It's past midnight in Norway now though so probably have to wait until tomorrow. 

Bailey's also has:

Efco MT 7200 w/24" bar & chain $739

Efco Model 165 (63.4cc) with 20 or 24" b&c $559

They also carry the newer Husky 372XT and 576XP but they are $860 & $930 respectively. 

They do carry the Echo line and the model CS 680 is a 67cc saw for $630 - they are currently out of stock. 

Also, Norwalk is running a special free shipping on all Huskys including b&c plus an extra chain but ends midnight tonight. 

If a new one is outside your budget there's plenty used everything to be had in this economy.


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## Ancient Arborist

As an arborist who runs saws on a daily basis I wanted to chime with a different angle for you to consider. Find a dealer of the brand of saw you think you may want to purchase and confirm that they can obtain parts and service/repair your saw in a timely manner. In my area there has not been a reliable repair and parts source for Husky. Kinda weird but it sent me into the realm of Stihl because there is a shop nearby that is reliable and timely on repair. For infrequent use like you will likely be at, it may not be a big deal, but when the time comes, it will matter. Also, from your original post regarding cutting up to 30" logs. I don't know where you are at in the saw skill dept. so take this as it applies. Find someone to show you proper cutting techniques, as well as all relevant safety precautions. A 30" maple log weighs around 150-200 pounds per linear foot. Untrained cutting in logs that size can lead to injury of you or a permanent installation of your saw into the log. Hope this helps and happy cutting


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## Twig Man

Thanks so much guys for the comments. I appreciate yalls help very much!


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## Twig Man

SawTroll said:


> SonshineCalls said:
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome Saw Troll! I would like a saw for cutting trees or limbs no more than 30 inches in diameter. I make turkey calls and toys and would like to take advantage of good lumber I see sitting on the side of the road being sent to the dump. I would be cutting 2 to 3 foot section and then cutting against the grain to semi square it up for my band saw. I will be using the saw weekly and will be cutting mainly hardwoods and maybe the occasionsal pine. If I need to give more information tell me what would be helpful to you. I just wanted to be informed and buy a good saw that would last for a while and do a good job. Thanks for joining and for your input!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, that sounds like you would be best off with a professional saw of at least 70cc, and a 24" bar or so. Be aware that cutting against the grain (from the end) is very taxing on the saw, and demands a special ripping chain. It also is very time consuming, even with a large saw. Squaring off from the side ("noodling") is much easier on the saw, and is best done with a regular chisel chain.
> 
> All current (or reasonably new) 70cc+ saws from Husky, Jonsered, Stihl or Dolmar are fine, with an assortment of +/- compared to each other. Personal preferences often is decisive regarding model and brand.
> 
> Do you have any particular models in mind?
Click to expand...


I was leaning towards a stihl but not set on it


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## woodtickgreg

SawTroll said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Greg thank you for the kind words.
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...Did you know that a 372 cyl will fit my 365? Now that would be a saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I didn't - I don't know very much about the 365. I guess this means that the 365 has a shorter stroke then?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> No, it doesn't, and the 365 is no more compact than the 372xp, except that most 372s in the US have the HD air filter/cover set-up. Both have a 36mm stroke.
> 
> The difference in the traditional versions is that the 365 has a smaller bore (48mm ws 50mm), and (by purpose) has less effective porting. There also are a 372xpw version, that has a 51.4mm bore, but not all xpws have that P&C.
> 
> With the current x-torq versions, both have the same basic 70.7cc engine (50mm), but the 365 has sort of a restrictor plate built in, that can be removed if you know what to do (I don't).
> 
> Apart from that, there are too little info here, to know what he really needs. :dunno:
Click to expand...

Good info here, I think that what I remember about the cyl interchangability was something I read on bailey's web site, Maybe it was their aftermarket cyl. Thanks sawtroll.


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## Kevin

Stihl isn't a model John it's a brand. But after you saying your 30" was circumference that's less than 10" diameter. You can just use chop sticks to cut that.


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## Twig Man

Kevin said:


> Stihl isn't a model John it's a brand. But after you saying your 30" was circumference that's less than 10" diameter. You can just use chop sticks to cut that.



Well I feel stupid I didnt give the right term. I really like the efco you posted and I guess I can get by with less saw now. Good thing is I want have to spend as much money:teethlaugh:


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## SawTroll

Is this about 30" diameter or 30" circumference, I am consused by now! :dunno:


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## Twig Man

SawTroll said:


> Is this about 30" diameter or 30" circumference, I am consused by now! :dunno:



iT IS 30 IN CIRCUMFRENCE i AM SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION


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## SawTroll

SonshineCalls said:


> Well I feel stupid I didnt give the right term. I really like the efco you posted and I guess I can get by with less saw now. Good thing is I want have to spend as much money:teethlaugh:



Efco has made some good saws, but earlier the larger ones were less than exiting. However I have no intimate knowledge of the relatively new 7200, but based on the specs it is a bit heavy for the rated power. Getting parts may not always be easy.

The 165 that also was mentiond is a known "dud" in the lineup regarding performance, the older 162 was lighter and quite a bit stronger. I would take even a 156 over the 165 (it is the same as the 162, but with a smaller engine) - but wouldn't want any of them for 30" *diameter* wood.

I would Stay with Husky, Jonsered, Stihl or Dolmar - with a small question mark with Dolmar, as their dealer network is very "spotty". 

It is your call though, not mine


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## davidgiul

SawTroll said:


> SonshineCalls said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I feel stupid I didnt give the right term. I really like the efco you posted and I guess I can get by with less saw now. Good thing is I want have to spend as much money:teethlaugh:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Efco has made some good saws, but earlier the larger ones were less than exiting. However I have no intimate knowledge of the relatively new 7200, but based on the specs it is a bit heavy for the rated power. Getting partws may not always be easy.
> 
> The 165 that also was mentiond is a known "dud" in the lineup regarding performance, the older 162 was lighter and quite a bit stronger. I would take even a 156 over the 165 (it is the same as the 162, but with a smaller engine) - but wouldn't want any of them for 30" *diameter* wood.
> 
> I would Stay with Husky, Jonsered, Stihl or Dolmar - with a small question mark with Dolmar, as their dealer network is very "spotty".
> 
> It is your call though, not mine
Click to expand...

Good advice on the chain saws. On another note what's the area that you live in like? What kind of forests do you work in? I have a mental image of nothing but pine trees(Cougar would love living there since he is such a huge fan of fresh pine) and snow.
Thanks
Dave


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## Kevin

John with this new information I don't see any reason to get another chainsaw unless you'll be using it a lot. Unless your Poulan is totally dead, you can get it tuned properly and keep a sharp chain on it and it should perform just fine for such small limbs. 

If the Poulan is truly shot, just about any old consumer-grade saw from one of the higher quality manufacturers previously mentioned of say 45cc or larger will be fine. You're cutting twigs not trees.


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## SawTroll

davidgiul said:


> Good advice on the chain saws. On another note what's the area that you live in like? What kind of forests do you work in? I have a mental image of nothing but pine trees(Cougar would love living there since he is such a huge fan of fresh pine) and snow.
> Thanks
> Dave


I am quite a bit North of the Arctic circle, and mostly have slow grown birch up to 20" - mainly 12-18", but also a few over 20". I also have some other hardwoods, and in some areas spruce was planted many decades ago. So far I have mostly left the spruce alone, as it isn't really great firewood.

The largest birch I have seen in that area was 36" diameter, but that one was unique.

I mostly use 50 or 60cc saws, and seldom find an excuse to use my 372xpg.


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## Kevin

SawTroll said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good advice on the chain saws. On another note what's the area that you live in like? What kind of forests do you work in? I have a mental image of nothing but pine trees(Cougar would love living there since he is such a huge fan of fresh pine) and snow.
> Thanks
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> I am quite a bit North of the Arctic circle, and mostly have slow grown birch up to 20" - mainly 12-18", but also a few over 20". I also have some other hardwoods, and in some areas spruce was planted many decades ago. So far I have mostly left the spruce alone, as it isn't really great firewood.
> 
> I mostly use 50 or 60cc saws, and seldom find an excuse to use my 372xpg.
Click to expand...


Niko,

No one needs an excuse to use their 372 other than the sheer joy of it. Mine are Helga (395), Hilda (372), Heidi (346), and Hanna (P5100PS). I do not name my Stihls individually - they have but one name collectively . . . . second fiddles. 


:rotflmao3:


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## SawTroll

SonshineCalls said:


> SawTroll said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this about 30" diameter or 30" circumference, I am consused by now! :dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iT IS 30 IN CIRCUMFRENCE i AM SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION
Click to expand...


Then you barely need a 50cc saw, but get one anyway, as larger wood may appear in the future - and there really are no good reasons to go lower in size.

Among 50cc saws, the Husky 346xp is the obvious choise! 

The Jonsered version is the 2153 - all decent Jonsered saws are red versions of Husky models, made at the Husky factory in Sweden.


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## SawTroll

Kevin said:


> Niko,
> 
> No one needs an excuse to use their 372 other than the sheer joy of it. Mine are Helga (395), Hilda (372), Heidi (346), and Hanna (P5100PS). I do not name my Stihls individually - they have but one name collectively . . . . second fiddles.
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3:



Well, I actually use the 372xpg much more than "needed", just for fun! :irishjig::irishjig:


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## davidgiul

Kevin said:


> SawTroll said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good advice on the chain saws. On another note what's the area that you live in like? What kind of forests do you work in? I have a mental image of nothing but pine trees(Cougar would love living there since he is such a huge fan of fresh pine) and snow.
> Thanks
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> I am quite a bit North of the Arctic circle, and mostly have slow grown birch up to 20" - mainly 12-18", but also a few over 20". I also have some other hardwoods, and in some areas spruce was planted many decades ago. So far I have mostly left the spruce alone, as it isn't really great firewood.
> 
> I mostly use 50 or 60cc saws, and seldom find an excuse to use my 372xpg.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Niko,
> 
> No one needs an excuse to use their 372 other than the sheer joy of it. Mine are Helga (395), Hilda (372), Heidi (346), and Hanna (P5100PS). I do not name my Stihls individually - they have but one name collectively . . . . second fiddles.
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3:
Click to expand...

Oh man. You are one tool hog (As if I am not). You could retire on the money from selling off your daughters I mean chain saws.


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## Twig Man

I wouldnt call em twigs Kevin:lolol: My poulan is shot so I am still going to get a new one. Again thanks fellas for the help I do appreciate it.


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## Brink

Must be Husky land. :) 

I put a lot of those together.


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## shadetree_1

woodtickgreg said:


> I am partial to husky's also, I have a 365 that has plenty of power for a 20" bar. A quality chainsaw is not something you want to cheap out on. Purchase one from a power equipment dealer as they will set it up properly for you and not just hand you a box. No saw runs properly right out of the box, the carbs have to be adjusted and rpm set. huskvarna makes a consumer line and a pro line, but they don't say that anywhere. The big difference is consumer models have plastic crank cases and are prone to warping with hard use, a dealer will know the difference and reccomend the better models. Do not buy a chainsaw from a big box store, they are all consumer models and most are really cheap and what those of us in the power equipment buisness call disposable. Stihl and the bigger echo's are also very good saws, jonsred's to if you can find them, makita also makes a decent saw. My advice for a 30" log is 20" bar and at least 50cc powerhead. Buy the biggest powerhead that you can afford, you'll appreciate it when cutting with the grain.



I have vote for the Huskys, been running a 365 I bought in 1997, I have never even changed the plug and I have used it to death and it starts eveyday and still runs like the devil! Then bought a new one in 2007, GREAT saws!!


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## Kevin

SonshineCalls said:


> I wouldnt call em twigs Kevin:lolol: My poulan is shot so I am still going to get a new one. Again thanks fellas for the help I do appreciate it.



Honestly yes they are pretty much just twigs. You really don't need much saw for that diameter you just need dependability. You can get that out of almost any consumer saw if you learn how to use it and maintain it and use a sharp chain. A 10" branch does not present much of a demand on a saw even if it's osage or even desert ironwood provided you maintain the saw properly and keep the chain and bar in top order. 

You aren't using a saw more than a couple times a week at most it sounds like and for "twigs" seriously you don't need much chainsaw. If you weren't needing it for mobile purposes you could get by easily with an electric one.


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## Twig Man

Kevin said:


> SonshineCalls said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldnt call em twigs Kevin:lolol: My poulan is shot so I am still going to get a new one. Again thanks fellas for the help I do appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly yes they are pretty much just twigs. You really don't need much saw for that diameter you just need dependability. You can get that out of almost any consumer saw if you learn how to use it and maintain it and use a sharp chain. A 10" branch does not present much of a demand on a saw even if it's osage or even desert ironwood provided you maintain the saw properly and keep the chain and bar in top order.
> 
> You aren't using a saw more than a couple times a week at most it sounds like and for "twigs" seriously you don't need much chainsaw. If you weren't needing it for mobile purposes you could get by easily with an electric one.
Click to expand...


Kevn I still dont think we are on the same page. There are many trees around here in that circumference or a little bigger. It may be a twig to you but not me. I have gotten a lot of great information here of which I am most grateful. I am heading in the right direction now and can make an informed purchase. Thanks again for everyones input!!!


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## Kevin

SonshineCalls said:


> Kevn I still dont think we are on the same page. There are many trees around here in that circumference or a little bigger.



John we aren't changing the page you are. We can only go on what you give us. You gave us diameter then circumference. We adjusted. Now you say "bigger than 30 circumference" but you said you won't be cutting them larger. Are you changing it again? We are trying to give specific answers but you keep changing things. 

Asking the kind of question you asked, and getting the replies you received takes peoples time. Buy the best saw you can based on what you've read but stop changing the parameters and insinuating it's us that are not "on the same page". 

Best of luck in your decision and hope you make a good one. I'm sure you will.


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## Twig Man

So sorry Kevin will not bother anyone with anymore questions, Sorry to have wasted the good people of this forums time. Again thanks for the comments and like I said I feel like I am informed now and heading in the right direction.


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## davidgiul

SonshineCalls said:


> So sorry Kevin will not bother anyone with anymore questions, Sorry to have wasted the good people of this forums time. Again thanks for the comments and like I said I feel like I am informed now and heading in the right direction.


No worries. Some of us have been learning a lot about chain saws. We are just sitting on the side. Thanks saw troll. Speaking of which, I would say that the birch wood in your neighborhood is beautemous. Cold winters, slow growth=nice wood


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## Twig Man

In light of my new chainsaw thread in which I made so many mistakes in communication I am here by changing my user name to Twig Man Kevin has approved this and me and him are still best of friends


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## woodtickgreg

Twig Man said:


> In light of my new chainsaw thread in which I made so many mistakes in communication I am here by changing my user name to Twig Man Kevin has approved this and me and him are still best of friends


FUNNY! Ata boy, at least you have a sense of humor.:lolol:


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## Kevin

Let me know if start cutting trees John I can change it to Tree Man in the future. 

I can't believe you really wanted to change it to this.


:rotflmao3:


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## Twig Man

Kevin said:


> Let me know if start cutting trees John I can change it to Tree Man in the future.
> 
> I can't believe you really wanted to change it to this.
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3:



I will never be a tree man in the real sense of the word. I am a satisfied to be TWIG MAN :lolol:


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## davidgiul

Twig Man said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if start cutting trees John I can change it to Tree Man in the future.
> 
> I can't believe you really wanted to change it to this.
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will never be a tree man in the real sense of the word. I am a satisfied to be TWIG MAN :lolol:
Click to expand...

I appreciate the humor, John, but I like your former nom de plume better. On another note, you should be getting your NIP soon. The mail lady weighed the box at 24 lb. She said I almost beat the record for that day which was 29 lb. What in the world was in it I asked, Lead? She said rocks. Go figure.


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## Twig Man

Nom de plume .. are you trying to culture me a little David :lolol: At anyrate I like twig man. Looking forward to getting the pine thanks my friend


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## Twig Man

rbaccus said:


> Twig Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nom de plume .. are you trying to culture me a little David :lolol: At anyrate I like twig man. Looking forward to getting the pine thanks my friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Twiggy--now that you know more about chainsaws than anyone alive or dead go down and buy a husky rancher with an 18" bar. It,s the only brand the 2-3 thousand flatheads around here use and it doesen,t sound like you:irishjig: need a big saw.------old fortester
Click to expand...


LOL Your right I should be welled informed for sure!! And I do so appreciate everyones thoughts. The Twig Man


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