# Casting questions



## kweinert (Apr 1, 2019)

So, I bought this box of maple burl offcuts that was from turkey call blanks.



 

As you can see, some are bark free, some still have bark on them. I presume that I'll need to pick off the bark before casting.

I also presume that when I cast I should use a translucent dye so you can see the wood underneath - at least it seems to me that showing the figure and live edge would be an important result.

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## ironman123 (Apr 1, 2019)

Ken that is a lot of "presume" ing.


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## kweinert (Apr 1, 2019)

ironman123 said:


> Ken that is a lot of "presume" ing.



Yep. That's what happens when you're trying out something new and you're looking for advice :) I have a LFRB full of these so I have plenty of opportunities to try out my presumptions.


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## rocky1 (Apr 2, 2019)

kweinert said:


> So, I bought this box of maple burl offcuts that was from turkey call blanks.
> 
> View attachment 163494
> 
> As you can see, some are bark free, some still have bark on them. I presume that I'll need to pick off the bark before casting.



If you're turning it, yeah... That would be a good idea. You could stabilize and cast it, but I certainly wouldn't. Not real sure how stable the bark would be even stabilized, and it might tend to separate. If you're building LED night lights it might not look all bad. 




kweinert said:


> I also presume that when I cast I should use a translucent dye so you can see the wood underneath - at least it seems to me that showing the figure and live edge would be an important result.




Alumilite dyes work, just don't put a bunch in the resin when mixing Ken. I like to try to make them transparent although many don't. It can be a pain in the ass honestly. Warm your resin before mixing so it flows easier, pour from one corner/side of the mold slowly and allow it to fill and push air to one side and up, rather than pouring over the top of everything and trapping bubbles beneath the resin. Moisture in the wood can cause a hazy or foggy appearance in the resin at surface of the wood as well. It can lend an interesting effect, can look like bat guana too.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Graybeard (Apr 2, 2019)

Would you want to stabilize it to be sure no moisture in the wood? I've found some of the mica powder has color itself, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mica-Powde...-Epoxy-Resin-Art-Soap-2g-Pks-A2-/163619073923 This was just some of the blue/red mica powder. The alumilite dye tends to be pretty dark.

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## kweinert (Apr 2, 2019)

Graybeard said:


> Would you want to stabilize it to be sure no moisture in the wood? I've found some of the mica powder has color itself, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mica-Powde...-Epoxy-Resin-Art-Soap-2g-Pks-A2-/163619073923 This was just some of the blue/red mica powder. The alumilite dye tends to be pretty dark.
> View attachment 163563



Yes, I wasn't sure on the stabilizing question as they're pretty dry - or at least seem to be. We'll see what happens with the first one. I have some dyes and powders coming in (hopefully today) so I can play with them some. At first I think I'll just mix some up and take notes on results to see what the outcomes are prior to involving the wood.


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## Graybeard (Apr 2, 2019)

I don't know if it's right or not but we mix the powder in just part A until we're happy with the look. Then we mix with B and start the timer. The color doesn't change all that much with the added B.

I've heard of people putting non-stabilized wood in a 200 F. degree oven over night, then putting them in a plastic bag so no moisture gets back in until they're ready to cast. Haven't done it, just read it so take it for what it's worth.

Anxious to learn from your experiences.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Useful 1


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## CWS (Apr 2, 2019)

I put all wood I am going to stabilize in the oven over night at 100 degrees even if know it is dry. Weigh before and after drying.
Just my two cents.

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## Daroc (Apr 8, 2019)

Toaster oven will work to 250 degs. for 24hrs. Aluminite not does work well with moisture in wood. I looking for a better resin I think Ecopoxy
liquid plastic is it and it doesn't need a pressure pot to cure.

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## Daroc (Apr 8, 2019)

Made a major mistake Aluminite Does not work well with moist wood


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## Bearded_woodpecker_design (May 11, 2019)

Daroc said:


> Made a major mistake Aluminite Does not work well with moist wood


I've used Alumilite a couple of times and I know people that love it, most guys stabilize prior to casting with Alumilite but I'm lazy and cheap and didn't want to do that so I had some cheap 1:1 total boat epoxy left and I painted a light coat on a bunch of burls. It worked great and and essentially sealed the Burl's completely. 
Also I put all of my castings in a pressure pot and put them under about 50 to 60 lbs of pressure for a couple hours to I don't have to worry about bubbles or dust. It's a must with Alumilite but even cheaper total boat epoxy comes out flawless in a pressure pot. 
As far as coloring your epoxy I use Mixol tints from woodcraft, there cheap like 6 bucks and they are really concentrated. I think there are about 20 colors to choose from.
Good luck man, post some pics if you can.

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## Graybeard (May 11, 2019)

I've coated any wood to be cast with Mod Podge or something similar to seal the surface before doing the pour. At the price of materials it can't hurt to do all you can to avoid problems.

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