# Drop point pair



## Strider

Hello men of good taste!

I greet all of you. Don't think I got kidnapped and had my kidneys sold, I am alive and working like a mad man (well, after a long summer, that is :D ). I present you my recent WIP, lots of photos, as always, as promised.

So, to begin with. I introduce you to a new technique of mine. Faster and not that much harder than the usual one. Take a couple of steel bars, clamp them together, draw the lines, and cut them. 2 or 3 in one, depending on the size of your cutting disc.

The ones shown below are made out of really old Echo guide bars, made in Canada, I presume. Drop point blade design, but with a flat descend, instead of the common downward curve. I like them that way.



 
You see? No big deal.



Lots of filing, lots of filing and the dust. Notice one is shorter- that's my mistake, I didn't pay attention when drawing so the tip went sideways to the guidebar grooves.



When properly annealed, the steel is soft like butter. Notice, I'm drilling both of them at the same time. A good indicator if the steel is soft enough is the length of the shavings, providing you haven't gone full RPM with your drill.



TiN drill bits do their work.

Reactions: Like 5


----------



## Strider

Unfortunately, this is a one blank job- making the bevel. Sharpie pen suffices for drawing the ridge line...which always moves further up :D


 

 
Filing one particle at a time.


 
See, the ridge line goes up :DD You've obviously seen my way of making the ricasso by now. Simple, precise. Effective. But, use a good piece of steel, hard, tough, as the file will chew up the sides, and concave it, as seen on the photo above (a sawed off piece of annealed guide bar). Extra fine file make it nice and smooth, covering up the marks and grooves of my main workhorse file.


 
5 mm TiN bit gole. Clean and sharp.


 
I tried an angle grinder for some reason- don't! :D Hours of work almost ruined. But not all was lost, only sped up the process and ruined the symmetry. Easier to fix than I thought. 


 
And, while working the belly side of the ricasso, while in vice, facing downwards, edge up, my file skidded and landed corner first on the edge. Oh well, another 1.5 mm to take off! You see, persistence is the key. We have a saying here in Croatia. Ne jebe lijep nego uporan. Erm... restrictedly meaning- keep trying lads! :)


 
Normalizing.


 
After quenching in oil, 61 HRC. I love this part! Gives spirit to a piece of metal!

Reactions: Like 4 | Way Cool 4


----------



## Strider

Testing, take two. Sixty one Rockwells. Good results.



Blank number two. Tried angle grinder again. Still not precise, went back to the files. I just take some meat off, whilst still not jeopardizing thickness at the back and the edge. File marks are seen ath the spine. Also, see that I'm using a ground off piece of hard steel, former file ass a ricasso line. The files and the grinder are not keen to chew it up like the last one.


 
Hardness after annealing. Thirty three Rockwells. Sooofttt.


 
Stainless steels just don't give you this much reason to smile. Just look at the patterns. So unique, so beautiful. I wish one could keep burnt oil cover. Note the light straw color from tempering on the left blank, number one, and pen markings, showing results, near the top hole. Pink color.


 
Here you go, gentlemen, All you need to know is written below. Missing an "s" in harness chart part. Fart. LOL


 

 
Time to start a handle. Palisander wood. Make two halves; drill two halves; cut the shape in halves, and file them together for a perfect fit. The key is not the get them separated again, once clamped. It is very difficult and time consuming to re-arrange them to the original fit. It is hard, but once you get used to it, it's a charm. Easier if you have two clamps. One always stays on. When moving it in a vice, attach the other one before moving the first one. Simple, logical. Precise.


 
Sanding for a good fit. 
They say palisander is poisonous...Wouldn't know, really. After inhaling dust and everything, I'm still standing, no reactions whatsoever. :D 


 
Pinning.

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


----------



## Strider

Tricky part- the front of the handle. The palisander wood really likes to chip off...to splinter off. Not hard to work with once you get the hang of it. But, it does smell like a urinal in a desert lounge bar on the longest interstate road ;D 


 
Fun and interesting detail. Oxidation (by HT) scale removal...left it's mark. Mom sure does like my chem experiments in the kitchen.



(not really)


 

The knives are for sale, so if anyone wants any changes, suggestions or advice, I'm open for business. And, yes, I shall put the add, the sale thread once I'm done. 
More to come, WIP after all ;)

Reactions: Like 9 | Way Cool 3


----------



## barry richardson

Cool thread Loris! I really enjoyed it, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## manbuckwal

Very cool process ! Thanks for sharing !!!

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## NYWoodturner

Great thread Loris. Keep em coming!


----------



## Molokai

Good thread... reminds me of old days when i didnt have a grinder...

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


----------



## Kevin

Great thread Loris. You put a lot of time in on that file. Like the others I can't wait to see the finished product and I hope one of our members buys the knives.

Your lounge urinal joke was so descriptive I got a little nauseated lol.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 2


----------



## Sprung

Awesome thread! I'll be looking forward to watching the progress on these knives!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Kauri_Man

Hi Tomislav, 

I hope to see the finished knife when you are done please bud. 

I want to show your knives to my friend in Virginia USA who is a bit of a knife collector/enthusiast but am having trouble locating pics of the finished product.

cheers,
Matt


----------



## Molokai

Kauri_Man said:


> Hi Tomislav,
> 
> I hope to see the finished knife when you are done please bud.
> 
> I want to show your knives to my friend in Virginia USA who is a bit of a knife collector/enthusiast but am having trouble locating pics of the finished product.
> 
> cheers,
> Matt


Actually i am not a creator of this knife. Loris, also from Croatia made these. Maybe that confused you. I will send you some photos of my knives to your mail.


----------



## NeilYeag

Loris, what is the reason for the old file, clamped behind the blade in picture 1?

Neil


----------



## Kauri_Man

Molokai said:


> Actually i am not a creator of this knife. Loris, also from Croatia made these. Maybe that confused you. I will send you some photos of my knives to your mail.


oops please forgive me for that Tom and Loris, I just clicked a knife thread off your profile page so then speed broused mainly the pics before posting. I know how much love goes into your knives so I'm excited to show my friend some pics. Loris gread thread bud, cant wait to see more. I like the chalk board pic, you did your home work ;)


----------



## Strider

I thank you for your liking, but if you have any critics, please feel free to criticize, it will do me good.
I've started to work the handle...There is something sexy in being covered with dust and metal that smells like urine at 3am while other house dwellers (try to) sleep!


----------



## Kauri_Man

Ha ha and maybe if your wife agrees she could join you in the workshop as your assistant lol 

I have made one knife I am novice extraordaniare but I look forward to complimenting a great knife when finished, one thing I would say is it's wise to take extra safety precautions if working late, they say between 11pm and 7 am is the body's normal circadian rythem shut down time. I used to work 16 hr days in my workshop when I had a production run I was behind on, still have all my fingers (touch wood)

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Corjack

Jako lijepo!

Reactions: Creative 1


----------



## Strider

Wife? Hell no, not yet, I'm still a 22 y/o git! 
I stop working when I notice I begin making errors on easy things. Good thing I begun saying stop, go to sleep. I used to continue on with work...As they say- knifemakers don't make mistakes, only shorter knives  But, some of my best and most beautiful drawings and ideas were born when I was really tired...Stupid part of the brain was shut down lol

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## Strider

After a wedding which I remember blurry, and vividly after some point, I grabbed my tools and went to the workshop- Monday, time to work. 
Palisander wood is a charm once you figure out what to do. Like every wood, you need to learn it to work it. 


 
I've decided sandpaper #60 alone was too slow. So I took my cheap rasp to take wood away faster. As always, I'm careful at the edges and narrow parts. This wood tents to splinter- big pores. 
Chamfering the edges to a round handle with a flare at the end.


 
This is how I take out pins out of the handle. Always in the same direction, and each pin has it's hole. A love story, actually :D But, I've learned the hard way- when tapping pins, make sure their edges are rounded of, chamfered, otherwise they will splinter the other side. 
And I need help- do you gentlemen of good taste recommend I should take away the choil as drawn with a red marker? I have small hand and my index finger fits perfectly in the curve, but a guy with bigger hands said it doesn't. Anyway, I decided to leave the handle a bit thicker to make it more comfy.


 
Taking shape really fast. Couple hours of work and it should be done. 


 
Grab popcorn, we're almost there

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


----------



## Strider

Sorry, I missed your post. It doesn't have a role, the file is only standing on the vice anvil.


----------



## Strider

No words necessary.


 


 
Polishing with sandpaper and old scythe sharpener to remove the scratch marks.



The other side


 
All done by hand. The window is on the second floor, 18 feet up lol

Reactions: Like 5 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 3


----------



## Strider

Wow! It's been a long time since I've worked on these children. I had to fix that, and get my hands in motion, the furnace red hot and the papers hungry for steel!
The one that is heating up in the furnace below is the number two blank. My ladybird gave her pretty fingers for polishing. She did very well, in fact, except the part where I worried she'd slice them, split her palms open and cut them to the bone, but hell, she didn't. I should be worried about my self, I get injured a lot more hahah! But the marks were too deep to leave them on the blade...so I annealed it again and went fine sanding- yes, the difference between sanding when the steel is annealed, soft, and hardened is remarkable. It is, after all, a great gap between 55+ HRC and less than 20 HRC.


 
After oil quenching. I like this photo a lot, don't you? I've almost quenched it in water, as I've confused the sets lol :D But, I've remembered when I opened the furnace that the baby is made out of Echo guide bar, not from a file.


 
Wow, my cell phone can make a good photo when it is willing to. Bastard, I should throw it in the furnace and melt its plastic guts!


 
Sweet! 


 
After double cycle tempering...one hour at 190 C, and one hour at ~200 C (I put 205). 


 
B2 stands for Blank #2 or Baby #2 :D 
The 2nd hardening turned out well, not only judging by the hardness, but there were no curves, bends, or burns. The * stands for the end of the tang where I hold the knife with tongs, thus loosing heat rapidly, even before it gets plunged into the oil. The second * is the faaar end of the handle, which was above the oil for quite some time before I dipped the whole piece. That part doesn't matter, really, and doesn't need to be hard...Unless if it were a hammer. Which it ain't...


 
Pretty colors, wouldn't you say? Why, oh, why can't the quenching-in-oil-finish remain? :I


 
A failed shot at the places of HRC testing. One dot after hardening, one after tempering. There is another pair of dots below the tang hole, but it didn't reflect. I will make a better photo, please excuse!

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## ironman123

Thank you for sharing with us. Very nice knives.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Strider

Let's go on!
Scale flattening, Ceylon rosewood, brass pins. 
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01534.jpg

These pins were drilled correctly, on my drill stand, while the "3 piece set series" do have a flaw due to the bad stand. Use your own tools, gentlemen! While both scales are pinned together, I rasp them evenly, securing a nice symmetry. This reddish lacquer is a SOB! It clogs the paper like glue.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01535.jpg

This is my method of marking the thickness. I grip the pencil in vice and by tillting it I can adjust the width of the scale just by moving it along the pencil.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01544.jpg

There...now, it will be contured as seen below. Flare at the end, thick in the middle and tapering towards the shoudlers.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01545.jpg

Since I refuse to use powertools and lack most of them, this is the fastest way to eat wood. If I were using flat rasp, it would take me a looooong time. This is faster but I had to be careful as this woods loves to splinter.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01546.jpg

Now to remove the highspots with a flat rasp.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01547.jpg

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


----------



## Strider

To make your reading easier, this post is about the first knive from this pair. 
Palisander wood, ready for gluing at close to freezing temperatures- no excusess!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01559.jpg

The scales, all nice and round.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01560.jpg

The suede leather have been cut for the lining purpose. Every pin has its hole.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01561.jpg

Since I didn't have a vice at the given moment, I've used clamps, and the pins didn't go all way trought at the first time so I had do adjust and lost a lot of precious time- fast setting epoxy- so I rushed and made errors. Some pins were still out of the wood, and on the other side only half way trough.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01562.jpg

Epoxy forgot to glue this place, so I fixed that with ease.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01565.jpg

Getting rid of excess leather. Dusty bussiness
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01566.jpg

Extra pin removing
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01567.jpg

Here's the error. They didn't go trough. Had I lost my temper, I'd throw it out of the window.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01568.jpg


----------



## Strider

Fixing what has to be fixed
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01569.jpg

The protruding pins gave me trouble regarding their and wood removal. So I remove them firstly and then move on to the wood.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01570.jpg

Stage one. Slimmer handle, but more work to do. I left the original flare.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01572.jpg

Shaping the wood. MOre to come
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/DSC01592.jpg

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Strider

Marking the thickness of the handle. Flared on the end, straight in the middle and tapered in the front! An absolute win! This time I will try to make a pointy ellipse shaped flare.


 I tried the stone grinder...boy, did that lacquer coating made my eyes drip from the horrible smell! Always back on my track- do things by hand, god forbid I try anything else! :D 
Round file, straight, parallel cuts. 





And then rasp the ribs smooth. I like this rosewood, it is oily and hard, but doesn't splinter if you work it right, diagonally to the grain! And it smells nice, too.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Strider

I've forgotten to post these photos, taken a couple of days ago.
Sanding the palisander wood...bad smell in the shop :S


 I tried to make the best out of the thin scale and succeeded in making a comfortable and profiled handle.


 Aaahh, but the pin in the bottom of the curve is a tricky thing to deal with!


 As is the belly sanding in the curve... 



The first pin was chamfered and wasn't pushed all the way trough, so its face was irregular, not perfectly round...plus the unevenly drilled hole in the wood- Tom explained that the metal drill bits will tend to collet wooden dust when drilling the wood, thus notably expand the hole, making a tight fit loose. An uneven pin face and visible epoxy around it- a thing to fix! 


 Pick the middle, tap it, use a smaller drill bit, and expand with the original diameter drill bit- 5mm. Worked like a charm- until it wouldn't drill the brass anymore, don't know whay (guess I should read the drill bit dubbing article again :S)


 Minimum wood loss, if any, at all. I never drilled anything thinner- check te brass shavings.


 I've left the wood upset on the ends of the hole so that I can lower the lip and tap it after I fill the hole again. What do you recommend? Would you rather see a piece of antler/bone, turquoise, stone, wood dust + CA inlay or a cut piece of the same pin inlayed in the wood?


----------



## Strider

The more I work on this pair, the more I like their shape. I had to start where I stopped- drilling the pins for new inserts. Put it in a vice, blade down, take a drill and trust your eye. Why? It's the cheap tool, drill stand that made the error, ha! And we don't trust our senses. So...3 mm, then 3.5, and so on until I reached 7 mm drill bit. I haven't drilled all the way trough, no point in that. Instead, I almost took the whole pin out, these "side flakes" are thinner than alu foil lol! Good job, eye.


Incredibly, I got the center of the pin from the first time. The burr, or splinters surrounding the hole haven't been sanded away, as I wanted a neat look and tight fit around the pin.


 New bulls eye pin had to be made. A small part of the old one can be seen below. Brass center, copper middle ring and cunifer outside (Cu-Ni-Fe alloy).


 In order to fit the copper tube inside the outer tube, it had to be sanded just a bit...then hammered in till gets hot from friction! :D


 See?


 Aha! I knew it was too easy! The brass center is 5 mm, whereas the inner copper tube is 4 mm. Oh well...I accidentally took the 5mm rods instead. Waiting a whole day to make the new one? Naaaa. I've got a drill, don't I? 


 But, this time I wanted to cut the trimming time on the sander, or with a file, so I measured the depth.


 Cutting the mosaic pin...with a handsaw. 


 It fits! But the excess protruding has to be sanded off. I've sanded the underside.


 This method is ok, but the thing is...it gets hot! You know you should stop if all turns yellow and golden and you can taste the metal by the intense smell!


 Glued, hammered and filed down. 


 The following day I did the other side...and I've bought a new rotating vice. I know, I know it is bollocks, but for jewelry, sanding and polishing it will suffice. 


 
Nice 60 mm jaws (I think), ball joint, very nice locking, and vacuum stand. It looked weak and all, but don't judge a book.


 Removable rubber pads.


 And, once place on a smooth and even surface- marble hanger stand, it will hold like glued. 


 So...sanding...


 And gluing the suede liner...


 And scraping the excess glue from the spine using a pen clip...


 
Some more liner gluing...


 
The knife needs sharpening and impregnating and it is done ;)

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


----------



## Strider

Nothing much, just an update. So...I had some minor work on the handle...filling voids and whatnot.



Oiling prooved dificult as the Trueoil wasn't drying for days. It got all sticky and collected fingerprints and dust. Twice have I oiled and sanded.


 But then Tom said I should thin it...and thinned it I have. Tom is the voice from above! 


 
Now it has a matte finish! Smells superb and got a nice color to it. Also, I've sanded it again starting at 1000#. Some particles from wood sanding god underneath the tape and made havoc.

Reactions: Like 2 | Informative 1


----------



## Sprung

Looking good, my friend!


----------



## Strider

Blank numero due...Finishing the handle...rasping, filing, sanding with paper and making the pins. You know the drill, besides.


 Rasping...



Some more... 


And a bit more... 


Paper sanding...or sandpapering? :O 

 Sweeet lines! 


@Tom asked me how I make the scales symmetrical and alligned...By removing them from the blank and then finetunning them as depicted!


Curvy ;) 

 Pin messuring and cutting to the correct size. 


Now the cross section of the...bolster/begining part has to be made symmetrical. You can see the differences. A bit of sanding and voila!


----------



## Strider

Gluing part went well! Better epoxy this time, better clamping process and the pins were correspondingly alligned. I learn from my mistakes, so should you ;))



I tried some photoshooting its sibling lol. Don't mind the chili peppers, they were first things to 
grab.

 
I like this one!


 



And the flake bellow the big bull's eye pin was a rouge piece of splinter that took away, just a paper thin piece that would require additional sanding, so I CAed it instead.


 



The palisander wood is rather good, easy to work with but it is oily so the impregnating process went a bit difficult. The last pin is a mistake. Don't use metal drill bits for wood, Tom said.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Strider

More photos of model #1 I stole my gf's cell phone. 


 

 

 

 

 

 
Siblings...Number two is a bit longer. But it is one heck of a blade, thin at the edge, it will be a razor!

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Molokai

Dont take photos in the mid day sun


----------



## Strider

It's my tan, really, I use Nivea :D


----------



## Strider

Post number #33 edited, the source file of the photos has been deleted, so I uploaded them again. Now they're visible.


----------



## Strider

Had a break, college related, I apologize.
A new discovery! I found out that by filing the pin with a fine, flat bastard file, the pin gets flaky as depicted below, whereas, it stays perfectly round without burr if I use sandpaper. Good for me! :)



The workshop was closed for a time- the staff were on a bussiness trip, so I had to manage. Working on a flat stone wall. 


The flares/flared handle part (what is the therm again?) are uneven...I had to fix that as well.



You know this part, don't you? I enjoy my new vice x)


Flare fixing the easiest way. The grain direction is also uneven, but you will see why in a bit!


Working the spine. Another discovery is, which I found looooong time ago, but will mention it for you guys, that leather is rather difficult to sand and to file. If you put CA onto it...that's a turnaround. 


Even flares, symmertical.


Aditional handle shaping, and pin fixing. Tom adviced me to use brass square as a sandpaper wrap. Otherwise, if the wrapping template is soft, the pins will protrude and get rounded, like bolts...It isn't much of a big deal, but I prefer flat. I use a file to wrap the paper around. Oh! And the last pins are concave, as they are at the bottom of the curve. Goddamn that was tricky and laborious. 


The blade lines are amazing, I'll hand my self that :D Saten finish this time. 


Liner imprefnating. I love the contrast. It is exactly as I had it in my mind. 


I bought this cheap bogus stone from China. Looks nothing like the one in the picture on Ebay...oh well...two bucks spent for...not nothing- I already found its purpose! :D Removing stubborn risers. 


Now we get to the good part. Nail polish for patina making. Someone was mentioning it. Here's how you do it selectively. Add nailpolish (or wax) to the bit you don't want to get a patina onto...The blade in my case. 

 


Wrap the rest securely. My wrapping let some vinegar (this one is used over and over, its almost vinegaroon lol) onto the handle, causing shallow but really black as coal dust areas on the tannin rich rosewood. Good to know. 


Since the vinegar won't stick to metal, you use tissues to hold it in place. And, exposing it to oxygen, rather than letting it in the jar, will fasten the process. 


After two minutes...Yeeeey! Carbon steel! :D 


Sanded to #800 and oiled with trueoil. This is why the grains don't match. I picked the best parts. 3D figure effect on maximum x) 





Dried for a day or a bit more. Sanded to #600, to get the pores. Second coat.


Without the flash. Sorry for the blurr.


Drying. 


In a day or two, it is done!

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## manbuckwal

Looking good. Thanks for sharing the process


----------



## Molokai

I think its easier to etch it and make whatever you want to a blade prior gluing the handle. Especially if you are making the ricasso black. 
Anyway, looking good and i expect to see them in person.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Strider

It was the first idea, yes, to leave the heat treatment finish, but during sanding and finishing it would be ruined. And the porous surface would not make a good gluing surface, I guess. But this wasn't hard to do, litteraly under 10 minutes. 
Oh yes, you will see both of them :) And for the other folk, I'll try to take a photo or two worth seeing ;D


----------



## Strider

After developing a patina on the back, I sanded it with 800# again to remove the patina where it shouldn't be. Taped the back and the riccasso, off course!


 
After that, I have sharpened it ONLY with the strop and it was shaving sharp. So, during the process of sanding I have learned to sharpen the blade...and afterwards just finish it. The stropping grease/oil can be seen in the photo below as a dark streak on the blade edge. 


 
Same here!


 
For a first satin finish, I am satisfied. It has a mirror to it, already. So, it isn't the grit, but the quality of sanding that does the trick- Same reason why a 120# sanding disc is closer to mirror finish than double amount of grit but done by hand. 


 I could have done a darker patina, tho.


 
The twins are complete. There are differences, but basically they've undergone the same manufacturing process, same quality. Same problems and the way I solved them. I am sincerely happy! 


 

 

Things I've learned:
- Do not use metal drill bits fir drilling wood (the dust doesn't move as much so it clogs and expands the hole).
- Use good quality epoxy.
- Prepare your gluing process in your head, thinking on everything that can and probably will go wrong :D
- Excess pins are good in the gluing process.
- To avoid convexing the brass pins on the handle during sanding ( metal is harder than wood, so it is removed harder than wood, thus sticks out) anneal them on a gas stove and quench them (unlike steel, they soften, rather than harden).
- One direction metal sanding is the key.
- If done properly, a edge made during sanding will be hella easier to sharpen afterwards.
- Soften the handle/ Harden only the blade, as it will allow easier handle manufacturing process and finishing. Scratches and whatnot on the belly and the spine of the tang are messed up things to work on when the wood is glued.
- Shape to wood scales prior gluing. Rasp them as much as you can. When getting closer to the approx. dimensions- STOP. Use finer files. Things get bad where they can LOL!

I thank Tom for his advices, and wood he provided.

Reactions: Like 1 | Great Post 2


----------

