# Wet Vase Help!!



## Johnturner (Sep 22, 2017)

Members
I am doing a vase, about 9-10 inches in height, and I started turning the blank which was wetter that I thought.
Questions: What next?

I have not started hollowing - should I? Then put away or finish?
Should I stop and put it away without hollowing?

It will have a flared top which is 6 inches wide down to 2-3 inches at the base.
When finished it will have a "V" opening from the top about 1/2 way down. 
Cut the "V" when wet or when dry?

If the concensus is to put it away wet -what is the best way to do that.

Many thanks for any help.
John


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## gman2431 (Sep 22, 2017)

Keep turning and keep it wrapped up when you arent. Just leave enough thickness to go back and return to final dimension

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Schroedc (Sep 22, 2017)

What type of wood? I'd saran wrap it when not working on it, rough out and anchor seal inside and out, Probably cut the V after it's dry


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## DKMD (Sep 22, 2017)

It depends on the look you’re after. I’d either do the whole thing wet to finished form, or I’d rough it out as Colin suggested and then re-turn and carve when dry.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Johnturner (Sep 22, 2017)

Thanks all.
It's white cedar -never turned it before. It came from an Arboretum - The head arborist is a member of our club so we get some strange wood.

John
PS How long is a good estimate for drying if I rough it out.
After anhcor sealing any special treatment? Paper bag with wood chips???


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## DKMD (Sep 22, 2017)

I haven’t messed with much white cedar, but I suspect you’ll be fine with just anchor seal. No clue on the drying time, but you can weigh it periodically until it stops losing weight... that’s when it’s dry.


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 22, 2017)

You can skip the anchor seal and just brown paper bag it if you rough turn it all in one session. stuff the inside but don't pack it tight, just fill it, and surround the outside with its own wet shavings. I like to close the bag up and leave them for at least 6 months, which usually ends up being longer because I forget about them. Leave the wall thickness about an inch, it will warp as it dries and then you can return it. Slow and steady is the key, don't try and rush it. I use anchor seal for rough blocks but I think it prevents turnings from drying or it goes way to excessively sloooow.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## TimR (Sep 22, 2017)

Is this going to need a removable top? If not, just turn complete and of a thickness consistent throughout. If turning end grain orientation you won't get much distortion typically with straight grain stock.
The biggest cause IMHO of cracking is having thin walls and thick bottoms. Different drying rates from thin to thick areas cause stresses that can lead to cracking. 
I'd never seal the inside if rough turning is your plan. Seal the outside with light coat of anchor seal, shellac or lacquer to slow drying, or just put in a paper bag with shavings. Leaving the inside unsealed helps to dry faster from inside than out, which will help keep cracks from forming...compressive stresses on the inside are better than tensile stresses on outside. Look forward to seeing it !!

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## TimR (Sep 22, 2017)

Also, if this will take you more than an evening to get off the lathe, cover it with a paper bag to slow drying. When I was turning large vases and forms that were green, I'd keep a bottle mister to keep from drying too fast before getting it off the lathe.


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## Robert Baccus (Sep 23, 2017)

I do mostly urns and vases--my usual is roughturn the outside in one sitting--endseal( no #1) the outside and hollow soon. Leave the inside open--dries faster with no splitting this way. Drying on the inside actually draws the wood together just the opposite from drying from the outside. Have done hundreds this way. Endseal the lip and any exposed wood while having lunch yeah. Put it on the shelf for 2-3 months and check the moisture %.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Johnturner (Sep 24, 2017)

Thanks


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