# Drying green wood



## Tykemo (Oct 16, 2013)

If this is the wrong spot to post this thread I apologize but I need help please. South Dakota has recently had a storm that downed alot of trees. I have acquired Black Walnut, Arnold Hawthorn, Kentucky Coffeetree, Sugar Maple, Silver Maple, Red Maple, Box Elder, Bur Oak, Green Ash, White Ash, Locust, Apple, Cherry and others. Would drying these woods with the bark on and applying Anchorseal2 Green Wood Sealer to the ends be the best or does someone have a better idea? Thank you!


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## ButchC (Oct 16, 2013)

Tykemo said:


> If this is the wrong spot to post this thread I apologize but I need help please. South Dakota has recently had a storm that downed alot of trees. I have acquired Black Walnut, Arnold Hawthorn, Kentucky Coffeetree, Sugar Maple, Silver Maple, Red Maple, Box Elder, Bur Oak, Green Ash, White Ash, Locust, Apple, Cherry and others. Would drying these woods with the bark on and applying Anchorseal2 Green Wood Sealer to the ends be the best or does someone have a better idea? Thank you!



As in log form???


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## Tykemo (Oct 17, 2013)

ButchC said:


> Tykemo said:
> 
> 
> > If this is the wrong spot to post this thread I apologize but I need help please. South Dakota has recently had a storm that downed alot of trees. I have acquired Black Walnut, Arnold Hawthorn, Kentucky Coffeetree, Sugar Maple, Silver Maple, Red Maple, Box Elder, Bur Oak, Green Ash, White Ash, Locust, Apple, Cherry and others. Would drying these woods with the bark on and applying Anchorseal2 Green Wood Sealer to the ends be the best or does someone have a better idea? Thank you!
> ...



yep...log form


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

Putting anchorseal on the ends will help prevent checking. You will buy yourself 6-12 months to get them milled before degrade begins. I don't know of to many species where the log will dry all the way to the center without the outside rotting away first.


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## Tykemo (Oct 17, 2013)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> Putting anchorseal on the ends will help prevent checking. You will buy yourself 6-12 months to get them milled before degrade begins. I don't know of to many species where the log will dry all the way to the center without the outside rotting away first.



so do I seal the ends, leave the bark on and give them 6 months and mill them or do I take the bark off and sel the ends and give them 6 months in your opinion?


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

Tykemo said:


> Treecycle Hardwoods said:
> 
> 
> > Putting anchorseal on the ends will help prevent checking. You will buy yourself 6-12 months to get them milled before degrade begins. I don't know of to many species where the log will dry all the way to the center without the outside rotting away first.
> ...



unless you have a machine to debark the logs I would say leave the bark on. As a rule of thumb you want to mill the logs asap after the tree comes down. If spalting is what you are after you will need to let them sit longer. (12-36 months depending on the species and size)


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## Tykemo (Oct 17, 2013)

I have some really nice Black Walnut and some Sugar Maple I would like to dry correctly. Are your suggestions still the same Greg?


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

Tykemo said:


> I have some really nice Black Walnut and some Sugar Maple I would like to dry correctly. Are your suggestions still the same Greg?



For anything to dry correctly I needs to be cut into boards. Walnut will spalt but not like the maple family. Walnut could sit longer in log form without a whole lot of degrade. (don't let it sit to long though) The maple would be better to mill right away if you want the nice crisp white/tan color. Let it sit even for 6 months and some of the maple species will start spalting and the color will change. Box elder is a maple species and will likely start spalting before the others. Hard maple will likely take the longest of all the maple species. 

With all that being said I am not sure where you are sitting for drying space or how you will be cutting the logs. Start milling the maples right away if you want that crisp appearance. if you have space to keep drying and the means to keep cutting logs start in on the other white species and work you way to the walnut. Hopefully you can get it all milled and on stickers within 12 months.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

I just looked back on your species list and you have ash on there. While the wood itself does not degrade quickly ants love ash!! you need to have those milled by spring or they will be ant food/home.


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## Tykemo (Oct 17, 2013)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> Tykemo said:
> 
> 
> > I have some really nice Black Walnut and some Sugar Maple I would like to dry correctly. Are your suggestions still the same Greg?
> ...



I can totally mill it within the week. I have never milled wood though so do I just cut them in half or make planks? 
Also, if I mill them do I need to put sealer on them at all? I would think not, but not sure.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

Yes seal the ends before milling! Doing so will help prevent checking on the ends of the boards. You want to mill every thing into boards unless you can use the half logs in your wood working projects. When you mill the boards put stickers every 12-16" in-between the layers of boards.


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## Tykemo (Oct 17, 2013)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> Yes seal the ends before milling! Doing so will help prevent checking on the ends of the boards. You want to mill every thing into boards unless you can use the half logs in your wood working projects. When you mill the boards put stickers every 12-16" in-between the layers of boards.



Thank you very much Greg! I appreciate your help.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Oct 17, 2013)

No worries good luck with the milling and be sure to post some pix as you go!


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## Blueglass (Mar 15, 2014)

Thanks gentlemen this post is going to be helpful for me. I had a pretty good idea of most but still found tips.


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