# Peppermill help



## Bean_counter (Mar 17, 2019)

Can someone please help me find out what I am doing wrong on these peppermills? So I am trying to make a peppermill where the curves flow from the bottom to the top. So I am drilling the holes for the base going about halfway, part it off, flip and drill the other side. I then remount the cap/top, turn the tenon down to the correct diameter, drill the hole, then part it off. After this I insert the tenon into the base and turn them both between centers. After turning and sanding I take off the lathe and find that the cap only lines up with the way I turned it. Twisting the mill cap you can see that is no longer true until it lines back up to the way I had it minted on the lathe. I’m getting extremely frustrated and can’t doagnose my problem. This is the 3rd I’ve made today and have had this problem. PLEASE HELP!

Reactions: Sincere 2


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## Gdurfey (Mar 17, 2019)

Ouch Michael.......I know you have thought of this, but you did check the alignment of your tail stock recently. I had an issue where I did not get my headstock locked back correctly after I had done a project where I swiveled it out. 

In your description of your process made me also think.......but as I have yet to turn one (my next set of projects), I was watching Craft Supplies videos for hints and tips. ......nope, misread what you wrote. Will still leave this.....but have me stumped.


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## Bean_counter (Mar 17, 2019)

Thanks Garry. I watched that video also from CSUSA and mounted it up that way also. Same problem. I did check alignment and it is balls on

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## TimR (Mar 17, 2019)

Michael, take a look at the instructions I posted a couple years ago, in this thread.
Chucks and the inconsistent hardness of wood means that you will run into problems any time you turn something and then flip it around to rechuck and expect it to still be square. Also, drift of even sharp forstner bits will cause issues. The instructions I put together help make sure thes errors are minimized, by using little jig blocks that keep things more centered.
Also, with soft or punky wood, over sanding especially near the split will cause similar problems.
If anything not clear in my instructions, let me know. Believe me, as many of these as I've made, I still read my notes. The right sequence is everything! Hope this helps, I was in same boat as you when I sat down and reviewed other instructions and where they allowed more error.

Post...
Most important takeaway, your final turning should be with the jig between cap and body. This will assure you don't get the issue you showed. Once you get the final shape between the pieces, you'll place the top in a jig that friction fits on bore of cap, and finish turn the cap...just don't touch the transition area to the base.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thank You! 1 | Useful 3


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## duncsuss (Mar 18, 2019)

Bean_counter said:


> ... I insert the tenon into the base and turn them both between centers. ...


My guess is the wood does not compress uniformly when you tighten the tailstock against the combination of body and top, and it bows out to one side a little. (Same thing happens if you turn pen barrels on a mandrel and over-tighten the tailstock.)

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## sprucegum (Mar 18, 2019)

If I am making a tall mill I use a steady rest while I am drilling this helps with drill drift. I made a jam chuck out of steel on my metal lathe that fits the hole in the top ( a wooden one should work as well). After the top is drilled I insert the jamb chuck in the hole so that I can true the outside perfectly with the hole. I then insert a live center that I have that fits well into the hole in the top of the body and a wooden jamb chuck into the bottom, this allows me to true the outside of the body perfectly to the hole. Everything is round and trued to the hole in the center and everything lines up viola. I only do these extra trueing steps if there is a alignment issue. My metal jamb chuck also comes in handy for the final sanding of the top as it fits tight enough to hold the top without tailstock pressure for some light sanding and a light cut on the very to remove any center marks.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thank You! 1 | Informative 2


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## Nature Man (Mar 18, 2019)

sprucegum said:


> If I am making a tall mill I use a steady rest while I am drilling this helps with drill drift. I made a jam chuck out of steel on my metal lathe that fits the hole in the top ( a wooden one should work as well). After the top is drilled I insert the jamb chuck in the hole so that I can true the outside perfectly with the hole. I then insert a live center that I have that fits well into the hole in the top of the body and a wooden jamb chuck into the bottom, this allows me to true the outside of the body perfectly to the hole. Everything is round and trued to the hole in the center and everything lines up viola. I only do these extra trueing steps if there is a alignment issue. My metal jamb chuck also comes in handy for the final sanding of the top as it fits tight enough to hold the top without tailstock pressure for some light sanding and a light cut on the very to remove any center marks.


What type of steady rest do you use? Pics would be immensely helpful in your descriptions. Chuck


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## Nubsnstubs (Mar 18, 2019)

Michael, I'm guessing you have already tried the alignment test by bringing up your tailstock with live center to your headstock. If it looks good with the quill retracted, extend it to maximum, and check the alignment again. Another thing to do would be to put a your drill chuck and 10"drill bit into the spindle. Turn it on until you see a point, then bring up the tailstock until it aligns closely to the spinning bit. If it doesn't align, your problem is most likely in the tailstock tongue under your hand wheel. Depending on the thickness, it can be fixed. 
If every thing does align, ignore this post. Attribute it to the ramblings of an . How much travel does your quill have? 

I modified a tailstock on my old 12'" Delta Milwaukee that had a tailstock for an 11" swing. After milling and adding the base, the side to side was off. All I did was drill into the base and tap a couple holes to use as an adjustment. When done, alignment was adjusted to where it was supposed to be. Haven't had an alignment issue when using it, specially doing mills. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)

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## sprucegum (Mar 18, 2019)

Nature Man said:


> What type of steady rest do you use? Pics would be immensely helpful in your descriptions. Chuck



The steady rest is something I threw together from some bearings I had kicking around and some scrap plywood. I have not been in my shop all winter due to my house build. I will be cleaning it out soon so I can start my kitchen cabinets. Try to get a picture then. Maybe I will have time to turn a mill.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (Mar 18, 2019)

Seems like we need to start a new thread on steady rests. Lots to learn about this subject. Chuck

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Bean_counter (Mar 18, 2019)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I will look into them and see what I can come up with....


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## sprucegum (Mar 18, 2019)

Nature Man said:


> Seems like we need to start a new thread on steady rests. Lots to learn about this subject. Chuck






This steady rest is very similar to mine.

Reactions: Like 1 | Useful 1


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## ripjack13 (Mar 18, 2019)

Here's another topic that Doc made. I didn't see your name listed in the viewed topic section, so I'm assuming you haven't seen it....
It has lots of pics, and good info as well....

https://woodbarter.com/threads/shaftless-crushgrind-peppermill.4475/


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## Wildthings (Mar 18, 2019)

Bean_counter said:


> Thanks everyone for the replies. I will look into them and see what I can come up with....


Let us know what you find!


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