# Bottle Stopper



## BassBlaster (Apr 22, 2012)

In an effort to move away from pens, well, not move away, just expand my turning abillity, I finally started turning some stoppers. I have lots of stopper blanks I have gathered from many here so there will be lots more in my future.

This particular one is only my second stopper and is maple burl sent in a free box of goodies from a member over at WWT. Hardware is from Ruth Niles and the finish is CA polished to a deep glass like shine!!

http://i964.Rule #2/albums/ae127/BassBlaster29/MapleBurlStopper.jpg


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## Kenbo (Apr 22, 2012)

That is freaking awesome. Love the burl. Great work.


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## DKMD (Apr 22, 2012)

Nicely done! Stoppers are fun, and they make great gifts.


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## bearmanric (Apr 23, 2012)

Real nice work. One day i want to try bottle stoppers. Will be with Ruth niles to. Cnt wait to see more. Rick


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## brown down (Apr 23, 2012)

what do you use to polish your ca glue with?


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## BassBlaster (Apr 23, 2012)

brown down said:


> what do you use to polish your ca glue with?



I use micro mesh and wet polish to 12,000 grit. I'm going to get away from CA for things like this and just keep it for pens. Just got to put together some type of buffing system for the new finish I got.


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## brown down (Apr 23, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> brown down said:
> 
> 
> > what do you use to polish your ca glue with?
> ...


i bought one of those buffing wheels from woodcraft and used a piece of 3/4 threaded rod and use my chuck on my lathe to spin it. works pretty good!


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## BassBlaster (Apr 23, 2012)

I was thinking of getting a piece of 1/2" all thread and mounting some buffing wheels to it. HF has a 3 piece buffing wheel set that are basically the same wheels that come on the Beall system for $13. I just havnt figured out how to mount the whole contraption to my lathe to spin it. I dont really want all thread clamped in my chuck and it needs some type of live center end or the end of the all thread would need to be machined to accept a cone center.


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## brown down (Apr 23, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> I was thinking of getting a piece of 1/2" all thread and mounting some buffing wheels to it. HF has a 3 piece buffing wheel set that are basically the same wheels that come on the Beall system for $13. I just havnt figured out how to mount the whole contraption to my lathe to spin it. I dont really want all thread clamped in my chuck and it needs some type of live center end or the end of the all thread would need to be machined to accept a cone center.


what about turning a piece round so you can chuck it up, thread the piece of wood, put a nut and washer on both sides. than for the live center, you can use a small step bit, you would have to do that on the lath at the slowest speed! but you would be able to do so without chucking the threaded rod. don't know if it would work or not!


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## BassBlaster (Apr 24, 2012)

That sounds like a possibility. I'm gonna try something. I'll post it here on the site when I have something that works.


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## BangleGuy (Apr 24, 2012)

Great stopper! I love the burl wood. Were you not happy with the CA, or is it just too much time to finish? I have used CA on a few bangles and I know it adds loads of time when I do. I also use the micro mesh to 12,000 grit. I would like to find something as effective, but faster. I just haven't hit on it yet.


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## BassBlaster (Apr 24, 2012)

No, I love CA, its just a bit pricey to use as a finish for anything larger than pens. Also since I currently polish with Micro Mesh and CA must be polished, I'm limited in the detail I can add to things like stoppers. Its too hard to get into the smaller details with the MM pads to polish them. It can be done but requires a bunch of unneccissary coats of CA to prevent polishing all the way through on the other areas. For pens, it is a great finish, I would argue that its the best finish.


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## BassBlaster (Apr 25, 2012)

Thanks for the tip. I may go the wood bearing route.


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## BangleGuy (Apr 25, 2012)

Bass, can you give me a quick lesson on applying CA and getting it finished to a glass finish? I use MM to 12,000 grit (dry) and Renaissance Wax, but I am looking for other finishes. How do you apply the CA? How do you avoid CA build-up or uneven application? I have messed with it some, but it seems a little challenging.

Thanks!

BG


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## davidgiul (Apr 25, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> No, I love CA, its just a bit pricey to use as a finish for anything larger than pens. Also since I currently polish with Micro Mesh and CA must be polished, I'm limited in the detail I can add to things like stoppers. Its too hard to get into the smaller details with the MM pads to polish them. It can be done but requires a bunch of unneccissary coats of CA to prevent polishing all the way through on the other areas. For pens, it is a great finish, I would argue that its the best finish.


Wooden Wonders has 16 oz CA for 28.00 and any viscosity that you can imagine. I agree with the use of CA on pens. Tough to beat it and it leaves a nice finish that can be quickly polished to whatever gloss you like. Tough to use on anything with details.


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## BassBlaster (Apr 29, 2012)

BangleGuy said:


> Bass, can you give me a quick lesson on applying CA and getting it finished to a glass finish? I use MM to 12,000 grit (dry) and Renaissance Wax, but I am looking for other finishes. How do you apply the CA? How do you avoid CA build-up or uneven application? I have messed with it some, but it seems a little challenging.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> BG



Sorry, I missed this reply or I would have responded sooner. I learned from some you tube videos. I'll find the videos and link them up later.

I dont find CA challenging at all. Its really quick and simple and very durable. Thats why I like it for pens. I polish wet though. CA should always be sanded and/or polished wet or it can get a cloudiness in the finish.


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