# How to Finish With CA



## BassBlaster

Hey Bangleguy, heres the videos that I used to learn how to apply CA. I do it exactly the way he does it except the polishing. He wet sands the CA to 1500 then polishes on the Beall system. I apply the CA (10 to 12 coats) and then immediately start polishing wet with Micro Mesh. I get the same results he gets.

I dip my MM in a bowl of water rather than use a spray bottle. I use the first pad to get the CA smooth. Be careful with the first pad, It strips CA pretty quickly. Once you get it smooth with the first pad, the other pads are simply removing scratches from the previous grits.


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## EricJS

Excellent video. There are a few items I'll throw in (these may have been mentioned in the video, if so I missed them):

1. Wear a nitrile glove on the hand you hold the paper towel with - for obvious reasons.
2. Use open ventilation or a chemical mask. Otherwise you _will_ have reactions to the CA over time. It took about 30 uses for me. It closes up my sinuses for about 2 days if I inhale the stuff now.
3. Make sure you seal the entire call/pen/bangle with CA before wet sanding. If water touches the unsealed portion of the wood, It can cloud up underneath the finish, or cause separation.
4. Practice, practice, practice.

Get some "micromesh" pads to wet sand. 9 pads of 1,500 - 12,000 grit. Use them wet & you'll get dozens of uses out of them.

I use accelerator most of the time because I'm impatient. If you don't have accelerator, just wait a few minutes between coats.

If you get "white spots" or "cloudiness" on the CA while applying, just lightly sand that portion off & keep building coats. Only a few woods are problematic - cocobolo is the worst.

Also remember this; you won't ruin your work if the CA finish is unsuccessful. Just turn the finish off (or sand it off) and start over. 

Have fun!


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## BangleGuy

Thanks Bass for posting these. I am watching them and taking notes. I tried more today CA finish today and was very frustrated by the end. I will need to get some medium CA as I have been using the thin stuff that dries really fast.


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## davidgiul

Thanks Eric and Bass for the CA lesson. I needed help too.
Dave


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## EricJS

davidgiul said:


> Thanks Eric and Bass for the CA lesson. I needed help too.
> Dave




No problem, David. Applying a CA finish is all about practice and getting a "feel" for it. I did a great deal of research before I started, but there was too much information out there, thus over-complicating the process for me. As you run into questions, feel free to ask. There's probably a bunch of us here that can guide you as needed.


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## BangleGuy

Thanks Eric, I will have my supplies by this weekend to give it another try. If I get something noteworthy, I will post a picture. Thanks again guys! BG


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## davidgiul

EricJS said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Eric and Bass for the CA lesson. I needed help too.
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, David. Applying a CA finish is all about practice and getting a "feel" for it. I did a great deal of research before I started, but there was too much information out there, thus over-complicating the process for me. As you run into questions, feel free to ask. There's probably a bunch of us here that can guide you as needed.
Click to expand...


What grit of MM do you start with?
Dave


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## EricJS

davidgiul said:


> EricJS said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Eric and Bass for the CA lesson. I needed help too.
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, David. Applying a CA finish is all about practice and getting a "feel" for it. I did a great deal of research before I started, but there was too much information out there, thus over-complicating the process for me. As you run into questions, feel free to ask. There's probably a bunch of us here that can guide you as needed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> What grit of MM do you start with?
> Dave
Click to expand...


I start with 1500 grit. I apply a couple coats of thin CA, then put 15-20 applications of medium CA over that. Then I spend extra time sanding with 1500 until all the "swirl marks" are gone. Then I quickly progress all the way down to 12000 grit - wet sanding on every grit.

If you see "dull" spots on the finished project, you've sanded down to the wood & need to build the CA back up. That's why I don't put only 6-8 coats on anymore.:dash2:


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## davidgiul

EricJS said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EricJS said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Eric and Bass for the CA lesson. I needed help too.
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, David. Applying a CA finish is all about practice and getting a "feel" for it. I did a great deal of research before I started, but there was too much information out there, thus over-complicating the process for me. As you run into questions, feel free to ask. There's probably a bunch of us here that can guide you as needed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> What grit of MM do you start with?
> Dave
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I start with 1500 grit. I apply a couple coats of thin CA, then put 15-20 applications of medium CA over that. Then I spend extra time sanding with 1500 until all the "swirl marks" are gone. Then I quickly progress all the way down to 12000 grit - wet sanding on every grit.
> 
> If you see "dull" spots on the finished project, you've sanded down to the wood & need to build the CA back up. That's why I don't put only 6-8 coats on anymore.:dash2:
Click to expand...



How long does it take you to finish a pen from start of CA to 12k mm?
Thanks
Dave


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## Final Strut

I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:
[attachment=4998]


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## davidgiul

Final Strut said:


> I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:


That is a nice finish. Clever idea with the bandsaw. Do you start with a medium CA and go to a lite CA?Does the friction of the towel pressed against the work kick off the CA? Do you stop at 2000 grit? What kind of buffing wheel do you use and at what RPM?
Thanks for posting
Dave


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## Final Strut

davidgiul said:


> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice finish. Clever idea with the bandsaw. Do you start with a medium CA and go to a lite CA?Does the friction of the towel pressed against the work kick off the CA? Do you stop at 2000 grit? What kind of buffing wheel do you use and at what RPM?
> Thanks for posting
> Dave
Click to expand...


Dave,
Thanks for the comment. I start with medium CA and if I find it is setting faster than what I can work it I will switch to thick CA but I usually stick with medium all the way through. The only thing I use thin for is some minor stabilizing as I am turning something with like a bark inclusion or a small soft spot. 
If you are putting a fair amount of pressure on the paper and causing a bit of friction it will heat and set the glue faster. I usually apply my CA at around 1000-1500 rpm's.
I stop at 2000 only because I use a buffer. A lot of guys that are using micromesh don't buff. I use an old 6" bench grinder (which I plan to upgrade to a variable speed buffer soon) with a spiral sewn cotton wheel for the tripoli and a loose cotton wheel for the white diamond.

Scott


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## davidgiul

Final Strut said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice finish. Clever idea with the bandsaw. Do you start with a medium CA and go to a lite CA?Does the friction of the towel pressed against the work kick off the CA? Do you stop at 2000 grit? What kind of buffing wheel do you use and at what RPM?
> Thanks for posting
> Dave
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Dave,
> Thanks for the comment. I start with medium CA and if I find it is setting faster than what I can work it I will switch to thick CA but I usually stick with medium all the way through. The only thing I use thin for is some minor stabilizing as I am turning something with like a bark inclusion or a small soft spot.
> If you are putting a fair amount of pressure on the paper and causing a bit of friction it will heat and set the glue faster. I usually apply my CA at around 1000-1500 rpm's.
> I stop at 2000 only because I use a buffer. A lot of guys that are using micromesh don't buff. I use an old 6" bench grinder (which I plan to upgrade to a variable speed buffer soon) with a spiral sewn cotton wheel for the tripoli and a loose cotton wheel for the white diamond.
> 
> Scott
Click to expand...


Thanks. Sorry one?? more question. How long does this process take? I know it will take a green horn like me to take longer but I need a general idea
Dave


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## Final Strut

davidgiul said:


> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice finish. Clever idea with the bandsaw. Do you start with a medium CA and go to a lite CA?Does the friction of the towel pressed against the work kick off the CA? Do you stop at 2000 grit? What kind of buffing wheel do you use and at what RPM?
> Thanks for posting
> Dave
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Dave,
> Thanks for the comment. I start with medium CA and if I find it is setting faster than what I can work it I will switch to thick CA but I usually stick with medium all the way through. The only thing I use thin for is some minor stabilizing as I am turning something with like a bark inclusion or a small soft spot.
> If you are putting a fair amount of pressure on the paper and causing a bit of friction it will heat and set the glue faster. I usually apply my CA at around 1000-1500 rpm's.
> I stop at 2000 only because I use a buffer. A lot of guys that are using micromesh don't buff. I use an old 6" bench grinder (which I plan to upgrade to a variable speed buffer soon) with a spiral sewn cotton wheel for the tripoli and a loose cotton wheel for the white diamond.
> 
> Scott
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks. Sorry one?? more question. How long does this process take? I know it will take a green horn like me to take longer but I need a general idea
> Dave
Click to expand...


No problem about the questions. Ask away. I can do a pen like the one I posted start to finish and have it ready to press together in about 15 minutes if I have my paper folded and the glue close by and the wet paper in the water and ready to go.


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## davidgiul

Final Strut said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Strut said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know the guy in those CA videos. His calls look like he dipped them in glass. I put CA on all of my barrel type calls and all of my pens and I do it just a bit different than Aaron does in his videos. I usually start with a coat of BLO and then wipe all the excess off before I start the CA. This helps bring out the color better in some woods. I use I think it is sparkle brand paper towel (the kind that tears of in half sheets). I cut a whole roll in half on the band saw so when I tear off a sheet i end up with a 1/4 sheet of paper. I start folding the paper so end up with about a 1" wide strip and then fold it in half one more time to end up with a piece of paper towel that is about 1/2 x 4-5". I put a couple of drops on the end of the towel and work it across the call. After I get across the call I take a scissors and snip the end of and start over with the next coat. I can usually get 10-15 coats out of one piece of paper towel. I usually put 15-20 coats on. Sometimes I use accelerator and sometimes I don't. It all depends on how impatient I am that day. After I get all my CA applied I wet sand starting with 1000 and working up to 2000. After I hit 2000 I dry it off and check for any spots that didn't sand out all the way and If I have to I wet sand some more. I finish my calls out on a buffer. I hit them with Tripoli and then with white diamond and you end up with something shiney like this pen:
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice finish. Clever idea with the bandsaw. Do you start with a medium CA and go to a lite CA?Does the friction of the towel pressed against the work kick off the CA? Do you stop at 2000 grit? What kind of buffing wheel do you use and at what RPM?
> Thanks for posting
> Dave
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Dave,
> Thanks for the comment. I start with medium CA and if I find it is setting faster than what I can work it I will switch to thick CA but I usually stick with medium all the way through. The only thing I use thin for is some minor stabilizing as I am turning something with like a bark inclusion or a small soft spot.
> If you are putting a fair amount of pressure on the paper and causing a bit of friction it will heat and set the glue faster. I usually apply my CA at around 1000-1500 rpm's.
> I stop at 2000 only because I use a buffer. A lot of guys that are using micromesh don't buff. I use an old 6" bench grinder (which I plan to upgrade to a variable speed buffer soon) with a spiral sewn cotton wheel for the tripoli and a loose cotton wheel for the white diamond.
> 
> Scott
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks. Sorry one?? more question. How long does this process take? I know it will take a green horn like me to take longer but I need a general idea
> Dave
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> No problem about the questions. Ask away. I can do a pen like the one I posted start to finish and have it ready to press together in about 15 minutes if I have my paper folded and the glue close by and the wet paper in the water and ready to go.
Click to expand...


Thanks


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## BassBlaster

Wow, this thread kinda took off!!

Thanks to all those that added to it. I know there was a few members asking about CA.

Another thing I'll add, if you dont have a buffing system and half to polish with MM like I do, its very difficult to polish in small detailed areas. I try to only use CA on pens where theres not a lot of crevices to get into. If you want to use CA on calls or stoppers or other small turnings that are more detailed, you will want to look into a buffing system.


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## Final Strut

Another thing that I used to do before I got my buffing wheels was to wet sand out to 2000 and make sure to get all the sand lines out and then put a small amount of McGuire's plastic polish on the item and buff it off at a high speed with a soft cotton cloth. I still do that with my corrian pens. Puts a real nice shine to them.


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## davidgiul

Yea, this is one of many good reasons that this site rocks. Thanks for the invaluable adivice
Dave


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## EricJS

It doesn't take long to use a CA finish but there are a few variables such as one part or two parts (such as top & bottom of a pen), having all supplies ready and waiting, use of accelerator, and final touches.

My average 1 piece can take as little as 15-20 minutes. All variables against me and I'll drag it out for almost an hour. Average is about 30-40 minutes.

My technique has evolved to wet sanding through 12,000 grit, buffing with white diamond, then applying renaissance wax to the finished project. This gives it a clear, flawless finish.


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## davidgiul

EricJS said:


> It doesn't take long to use a CA finish but there are a few variables such as one part or two parts (such as top & bottom of a pen), having all supplies ready and waiting, use of accelerator, and final touches.
> 
> My average 1 piece can take as little as 15-20 minutes. All variables against me and I'll drag it out for almost an hour. Average is about 30-40 minutes.
> 
> My technique has evolved to wet sanding through 12,000 grit, buffing with white diamond, then applying renaissance wax to the finished project. This gives it a clear, flawless finish.


Sweet


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## ripjack13



Reactions: Useful 1


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## davebug

This is how I CA finish my straight razor scales, I copied this from one of the straight razor forums I go to this is not a process of my own creation, but its what I use and is great. I build a jig out of some thin scrap to look like a long upside down capital T, then use some 2 sided tape to get the scale to stick to it so I can pick it up and move it around while applying the CA without gluing it to anything like the table...while usually don't glue it to anything.  I also take my final sanding of the CA to 2000 but other then that pretty much follow whats below. I do it all by hand no machines needed but one would help for the buffing.

Sand your wood to 220 don't go finer it wont suck up the glue, and yes all good finishes go into the wood not just on it...

Acetone is your friend yes if you wipe the scale before your first coat of CA life will be good... I could try and tell you what woods need it (oily) and which don't (dry) , a quick wipe will not hurt any wood that I have used YET..

There are basically 3 types of CA glue, Thin, Medium, and Thick I have never tried the Thick...
Use either the thin or the med or as I'll explain next both types...

When you finish using a regular wood finish, most start with what is often referred to as a "wash coat" or a thinned version of the finish... This gets deep into the wood fiber and protects (waterproofs) it much better then just a top finish...It also sets up a bonding surface for the next coats...
Thin CA is your wash coat, always start with it, put 2-3 coats of thin CA on then switch to a medium if you want, or continue with thin...
Every 1 coat of med is about the same as 3 coats of thin, as a rough guide..

Key, 3 coats of Thin or 1 coat of Med = 1 Application

With most finishes application is the key to a good smooth finish, CA is the reverse, application means nothing, it will be messy sanding makes the finish...

DON"T FORGET THE INSIDE OF THE SCALES I actually do them first with 2 wash coats then 2 aplications..


Application:

After the "wash coat" dries use 320 sandpaper and rough the surface, now 1 application of CA, then let dry, rough sand and continue...I use cut off Nitrile glove finger tips to apply CA, you can also use cello tape around a finger but I have never got that to work as well..
Rough sand 320 before the next application of CA, you will start to notice that they are sanded smooth spots and shiny spots in the finish this becomes very important later..

Continue with your applications, I don't even think about sanding for effect until 3 applications but usually 4-5 is the right spot... (That is 9-15 coats of Thin AT LEAST)

Remember that if you are using thin CA, it has to dry between each thin coat or you will fog it...

Sanding:

Here is where the finish comes into its own...
I use 320 still and get the finish fairly even, the less shiny spots, the more even the finish,, EVERY SINGLE SHINY SPOT MUST BE GONE eventually...
I use a fresh clean piece of sandpaper each time I do this first cut-down because it can tell you very fast if you burned through the finish, you will see a wood color streak on it
If you burn through do 2 more applications and try again...

As you sand for effect, watch the shiny spots get smaller and smaller, DON"T get lazy here, as they get smaller, switch to 600 and continue...
then 800 then 1500 (the grits can vary) you can wet sand if you want at about the 800 level...

Check the finish against a bright light for shiny spots, and continue lightly sanding until there are none... Yes really none, if you leave any you will be sad after the next step...

Now once you are SURE the finish is even and clear, then comes the magic...

You should have a pretty smooth glassy finish now but it needs to be "Cut" a really good inexpensive cutting compound is Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound, apply and buff and then do it again, and you will find this liquid glass finish staring back at you...
If you left any shiny spots they will now be DENTS in your finish go back to about 1000 grit or so, and sand them out and re-"cut" the finish with the compound...

A good coat of Johnson's paste wax (or the like) or Ren-Wax makes the whole thing beautiful..

Reactions: Great Post 1


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## ripjack13

Great detail..thanx...


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## turner.curtis

The CA method is like opinions and opinions are like ...; well we all know the saying. Everyone has a slightly different technique albeit with lots and lots of great looking products as the results.

Although I have not watched the videos linked in this thread as of yet, I will say that the method I use is slightly different in that I do not use BLO and instead use mineral oil. Some have said that the Mineral oil will give a cloudy finish etc but I have not had any issues thus far. so YMMV greatly...

So to murky the waters more... The FBE bangle that I recently turned, my process was as follows:

I used my r2 carbide tool and turned to size. This gained me a really nice clean cut. 

From there I lightly sanded with 600 grit and then applied a very light coat of Mineral Oil. I let the Mineral Oil sit for about half and hour and then wiped all the excess clean and lightly re-sanded with 600.

I then applied 3 heavy coats of thin ca. I always use at least 1 coat of thin, as I feel the thin better permeates the surface of the wood and gets me some polymerizing action below the surface. And then used the carbide tool again to clean up the majority of the surface before switching back to 600 to lighly finish sanding to get that nice uniform milky look.

I then cleaned it all up with a little DNA and then started applying my medium coats. Depending on how the medium goes on depends on if I sand any between coats. If so it is usually with 320/600/800 depending on the surface.

I then usually build up the CA a bit and sand back with 600 and / or 800 and then move on to Micromesh. Depending on the CA surface once again determines what level of MM i start with, most of the time I go straight Wine / Brown (3600) and continue through 12000.

After the Micromesh I applied some plastic / car clear coat polish to kick the ca up the last notch and then applied 2 coats of Renaissance wax. 

For my CA application I use blue shop towels as they seem to hold up the best for me. I generally fold in half and cut in to applicator strips. Depending on how the ca is treating me I may put a very small dab of Mineral Oil on the towel before I apply my medium CA to it. I rarely if ever try to apply thin to the towel rather usually just apply it directly to the piece using the towel as a wiper. Also depending on the CA behavior depends on if I use accelerator.

I previously used gloves but stopped after working a finish on a pen a little too long and it popping the glove finger. Now I save the little baggies from pen parts and just use that to cover my finger tip.


Good Luck! as mentioned before YMMV greatly...

Curtis


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## BassBlaster

Just out of curiousity, what is the purpose of using any oil with a CA finish or any other finish that needs to adhere to the wood? I'm not saying your wrong, I just dont get it.

Oil, be it BLO, walnut oil, mineral oil or any other oil has to have some factor in adhesion and it cant be good. Some woods such as cocobolo have natural oils that cloud CA finishes and create adhesion problems so the process for applyiing CA to those woods involve a first step of removing all the natural oils from the surface via alcohol or mineral spirits. I guess I just dont understand why anyone would apply oil prior to CA allthough I know alot of folks do it.

Please enlighten me!!


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## turner.curtis

BassBlaster said:


> Just out of curiousity, what is the purpose of using any oil with a CA finish or any other finish that needs to adhere to the wood? I'm not saying your wrong, I just dont get it.
> 
> Oil, be it BLO, walnut oil, mineral oil or any other oil has to have some factor in adhesion and it cant be good. Some woods such as cocobolo have natural oils that cloud CA finishes and create adhesion problems so the process for applyiing CA to those woods involve a first step of removing all the natural oils from the surface via alcohol or mineral spirits. I guess I just dont understand why anyone would apply oil prior to CA allthough I know alot of folks do it.
> 
> Please enlighten me!!



Well for me the initial light coat that I let sit on most stuff is to get the grain to pop a bit more, if possible. What I use the Mineral Oil on the applicator for is more of a lubricant sort of. In some cases it seems like the ca does not soak in to the towel as much as the oil has already soaked in. At times it also seems to allow me to get a smoother coat thus the lube hypothesis.

Yes, agreed for cocobolo and other naturally oily species. In fact most of the cocobolo I have put a CA finish on, I have cleaned with DNA and / or activator prior.

BTW the reason I use Mineral Oil is simply that I have plenty of it on had from a time when I made up a bunch of cutting boards.

Curtis


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## EricJS

BassBlaster said:


> Just out of curiousity, what is the purpose of using any oil with a CA finish or any other finish that needs to adhere to the wood? I'm not saying your wrong, I just dont get it.
> 
> Oil, be it BLO, walnut oil, mineral oil or any other oil has to have some factor in adhesion and it cant be good. Some woods such as cocobolo have natural oils that cloud CA finishes and create adhesion problems so the process for applyiing CA to those woods involve a first step of removing all the natural oils from the surface via alcohol or mineral spirits. I guess I just dont understand why anyone would apply oil prior to CA allthough I know alot of folks do it.
> 
> Please enlighten me!!




There's a ton of controversy about using/not using BLO during a CA application. I see a lot of penturners who have gotten away from using BLO, but not many picking it up. 

I've heard that using BLO can make the grain stand out on some species, which would be a plus.

On another note, a couple years ago I researched the process in depth and found conversations from someone who was a "chemist" explain that the mixture of CA and BLO creates the basic chemical makeup of polyurethane, which is not as hard or scratch resistant as CA by itself. 

I have no proof of these items but I stay in tune with the trends. I've never used BLO with CA myself so I have no experience with it.:dunno:


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## BangleGuy

I am following, but It does seem that putting CA over a 'wet' finish would give less than desirable adhesion results. Yet, what I am hearing (reading) is that folks use BLO or mineral oil, wipe it off and then go with CA. Does either wet finish accelerate the drying of the CA? 

I know that if I skip the light CA and go straight to the medium, it seems like the grain is less pronounced. I like the idea of using BLO to enhance the beauty... just a little nervous to try it for fear of latent adhesion issues...


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## EricJS

BangleGuy said:


> I am following, but It does seem that putting CA over a 'wet' finish would give less than desirable adhesion results. Yet, what I am hearing (reading) is that folks use BLO or mineral oil, wipe it off and then go with CA. Does either wet finish accelerate the drying of the CA?
> 
> I know that if I skip the light CA and go straight to the medium, it seems like the grain is less pronounced. I like the idea of using BLO to enhance the beauty... just a little nervous to try it for fear of latent adhesion issues...



Eric, most who use the "BLO" method wipe on the linseed oil before and between each coat of CA. I believe it does accelerate the drying, but anything with moisture will do that.

I always apply thin CA on the first coat, usually the first 2-4 coats, for the reason you mention above. The thin CA soaks in, thus darkening the grain and creating a better sealer for the wood. Then I switch to medium. I don't use thick CA.


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## turner.curtis

EricJS said:


> BangleGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am following, but It does seem that putting CA over a 'wet' finish would give less than desirable adhesion results. Yet, what I am hearing (reading) is that folks use BLO or mineral oil, wipe it off and then go with CA. Does either wet finish accelerate the drying of the CA?
> 
> I know that if I skip the light CA and go straight to the medium, it seems like the grain is less pronounced. I like the idea of using BLO to enhance the beauty... just a little nervous to try it for fear of latent adhesion issues...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eric, most who use the "BLO" method wipe on the linseed oil before and between each coat of CA. I believe it does accelerate the drying, but anything with moisture will do that.
> 
> I always apply thin CA on the first coat, usually the first 2-4 coats, for the reason you mention above. The thin CA soaks in, thus darkening the grain and creating a better sealer for the wood. Then I switch to medium. I don't use thick CA.
Click to expand...


Eric - easiest way to tell is take one of those center cores out of one of the rubbermaid bins and give it a try my friend... :no dice. more please: If it does not suit you turn it off and try again.. no harm no foul. 

I myself do not apply it to the piece between the coats of CA, instead I have a dropper bottle and put a drop or 2 on the blue shop towel before I puddle my CA on to it to then apply to the piece. I have used both, I started out using BLO based on watching Russ Fairfield viedos.

I am also not sure that it speeds up the reaction either, if anything it may actually prolong it a tad though that may just be me **thinking it** and finding security in my blankie 

Curtis


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## ripjack13

http://i.Rule #2/CIwQC.jpg

There's my first attempt at finishing with CA on Manzanita Root that I had Bangleguy stabilize for me. Not too shabby. It is a P.I.T.A. though. But I got it down after 4 tries......


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## BassBlaster

1911 grips?


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## ripjack13

Yep. 1911 grips. I'm starting to hone my skills on them. I have already made Beretta Vertec grips out of Ebony. They were a pita. But as usual, once I figured it out it was easy I have a buddy who wants Ruger Mark 3 grips next....


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