# S.O.S. To All You Flat Workers!



## Dane Fuller (Sep 19, 2013)

From time to time, I've been known to take on things that I have no idea how to do. A while back I was asked to build a free standing swivel mirror out of walnut and I stupidly said yes.:dash2: I came up with a simple design with clean lines that I think will allow me to complete the project with the basic flat work tools I have. The mirror frame is built and I should finish milling the stand itself this weekend. My cry for help is in the finish department. I'm picking up a random orbit sander and already have a vibratory.

Here are my questions:

1.) Is there anything else I should buy to help the finishing process along?

2.) To what grit do I sand? I often go to 1200 grit on things I turn but I definitely don't want to go that far with this!

3.) What finish do I use? I want a light gloss finish but not a super "dipped in glass" look.

4.) How do I achieve said finish? Keep in mind I don't have a spray booth.


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## barry richardson (Sep 19, 2013)

My fail safe protocol is; sand to 220, then use wipe-on poly, one or 2 coats, then gently rub out the finish with 4/0 steel wool or 400 grit sand paper, then spray on the final coat with a rattle can of poly, (I like semi-gloss Minwax) but if you sue gloss and it is too glossy for you liking, you can take some of the shine off with steel wool. It's pretty fool proof...


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## Mike1950 (Sep 19, 2013)

Ditto on what Barry has said. 220 is what I sand to also. Gloss or semi gloss on walnut-I think it is critical to fill the grain. Multiple ways to accomplish that. 
I really like General arm-r- seal wipe on poly/oil- dummy proof-and lord knows I need that in a finish.............


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## Mike1950 (Sep 19, 2013)

PS- as you move through the grits- examine carefully that you get previous grits marks sanded out- I find on darker woods my aging eyes are not so good at seeing the scratches anymore. :dash2::dash2::dash2::dash2:


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## Kevin (Sep 19, 2013)

Dane, if you aren't really set up to do the finishing I will offer an idea most people never think of - we are mostly DIYers but there's times getting outside help can make sense. I have only done this once in my life because I like to do everything from start to "finish". But I know how covered up you are so if you're in a jamb, do the sanding to save the majority of the coin then take it to a local body shop and have them spray it. It will come out PERFECT. And if you get lucky like I did it won't cost much. I paid $10 to have that humidor done - that was back in 1991 but it might not be too much for your mirror maybe $50 at most. Naybe that will be too much for your budget but it also might make perfect sense, only you can know. 

Since this is a one-off you might check with your local body shop guys - I bet you even know one. Otherwise you risk being unhappy with your results and having to do it a second time. If you have the body shop do it, it's over with and perfect. Just a thought.


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## Dane Fuller (Sep 19, 2013)

Thanks, guys!

Barry & Mike,
That's pretty much exactly what I had in my mind to do. The only difference is that I was going to hit it with sanding sealer before the WOP. I see that the sealer isn't necessary now. Can't tell you how much I appreciate the info.

Kevin,
A very good friend of mine owns a body shop here in town. What did you have them shoot it with?


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## Kevin (Sep 19, 2013)

I left it to him just told him I wanted a semi gloss sheen. I'm sure it was a clear kote of some brand or another. I don't know what type of finish though. He will know what's best just tell him the sheen you want. Clear coats do not yellow at least he said it wouldn't. I haven't seen that particular humidor since it left my shop have no idea where it is but I bet it looks as good as the day I delivered it.


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## Kevin (Sep 19, 2013)

Dane as I thought about this since my post I remember he did not charge me anything because he sprayed it when he sprayed the next car. I just gave him $10 anyway. Ask your buddy if you can get a deal like that.


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## jmurray (Sep 19, 2013)

i take everything to the paint booth now. (luckily my brother owns a sign shop) we spray waterbased satin poly mostly. dries really fast. 3-4 coats in 2 hours.

the rattle cans work well also, but at 11 bucks a can it gets pricey. they go fast too. automotive clearcoat is expensive, so take your own. waterbased is the way to go, fast dry, easy cleanup, great results



Kevin said:


> Dane, if you aren't really set up to do the finishing I will offer an idea most people never think of - we are mostly DIYers but there's times getting outside help can make sense. I have only done this once in my life because I like to do everything from start to "finish". But I know how covered up you are so if you're in a jamb, do the sanding to save the majority of the coin then take it to a local body shop and have them spray it. It will come out PERFECT. And if you get lucky like I did it won't cost much. I paid $10 to have that humidor done - that was back in 1991 but it might not be too much for your mirror maybe $50 at most. Naybe that will be too much for your budget but it also might make perfect sense, only you can know.
> 
> Since this is a one-off you might check with your local body shop guys - I bet you even know one. Otherwise you risk being unhappy with your results and having to do it a second time. If you have the body shop do it, it's over with and perfect. Just a thought.


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## Indiana_Parrothead (Sep 19, 2013)

I was one of the worst finishers in the world too until I found Danish Oil. It won't work for everything that you do, alot depends on the type of wood you are using and the finish/sheen that you want. 

Here is how I do it, sand to about 220 and then wipe down good with a tack cloth. Just floor the surface with Danish oil and let it stand about 15-20 minutes. If you see spots that get dry recoat them. Then wipe all of the standing oil left off with a clean cloth. BIG CAUTION HERE DO NOT leave these rags laying around put them in a fire proof can or in a bucket of water, they can very easily spontaneous combust. 

Let this dry over night, next flood the surface again this time with the surface wet sand with wet/dry 220 grit paper. After sanding wipe clean again. Next day same thing, with 320 grit, day after that 400, after that 600, then 800. 

You can do as many coats as you like, the slurry that the sanding creates really fills in all the pores and gives you a very smooth surface. After the final coat I would let it dry at least a week and then it can be waxed if you want more protection. 

I used this on some cherry end tables, using 8 coats and it is more water proof than a vanish. And it is pretty fool proof, the only thing I don't like is the time that it takes.

Mike


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