# Blade Tracking



## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Been a lot of bandsaw questions lately. Now I'm having trouble. I put a new blade on my saw and although never had trouble before, something has changed because I can't get it to track right. So i put the old one back on just to see, and it won't track either. 

Rockwell 28-3X0 same as a Rockwell-Delta 28-340 anyone have one? I have watched all the videos on YT and done exactly like the manual says but I cannot get it right.


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 7, 2013)

Are the wheels parallel with each other? In other words if you remove the table and place a straight edge across the wheels from one to the other are they in plane?


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Yeah you mean coplanar. I've heard both ways that they should be and that they can't be. That's the next thing I'm gonna do. I took the table and guides off while tracking, I'll grab a straight edge and see . . . . .


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

you can't put a straight edge against all four edges of both wheel because the frame won't allow it. So I'll need to make a straight edge with a cut-out. In the meantime I eyed it as close as possible and measured out and it appears to not even be close.


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## ButchC (Oct 7, 2013)

Hmmm. A few other things to check if you haven't already: Ensure that the weld is perfectly flat on the blade. Make sure that there's no bits of anything on the tires and that the tires don't have a wear groove in them (from leaving the blade tensioned when not in use). Check to see that the thrust bearing and other guides aren't touching the blade prior to beginning adjustments. Other than that, it sounds like your wheels may be out of alignment. Sometimes they get bound up, and will pop/move on their own when you remove the blade and the tension. Other than that, I dunno.

Butch


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Good points Butch. These are brand new tires and a brand new blade - I get my blades from Louis Iturra. Sure he can make a bad weld but not likely. I will inspect the weld anyway it is better to be sure . . . .


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## Mike1950 (Oct 7, 2013)

I have as discussed close to the same saw. I cannot help- never had much problem. Did you just put new tires you got on. Did you use wrong knob to tension with- I ask cause I have done that.


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 7, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Yeah you mean coplanar. I've heard both ways that they should be and that they can't be. That's the next thing I'm gonna do. I took the table and guides off while tracking, I'll grab a straight edge and see . . . . .


Yup, coplanar, that's what I meant, but you knew what I was talking about. 
It's a good starting point, then it can be fine tuned after that.


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Well what I think is part of it Mike is that the saw has not ever been 100% on since I bought it. Close but not perfect. I have never had to do a complete start-from-scracth tune up so now that I finally need to learn how, I am scratching my head. I have twisted everything by now though lol - trying to get it like it was but I obviously need to do a major tune up to it.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 7, 2013)

Mine has a tension knob on bottom of saw top and has the coplanar adj. on the side. I bet you have that side one out of whack. I have a 7' level that is magnet on one side that I stick to table top side and check such things. Probably could do the same with straight edge and clamp. Hope it helps.


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Nope like I said I have to make a straight edge with a notch because of my frame design - doing it now. Well typing now but about to finish . . .


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

The bottom of the bottom wheel is over 1/4" toed out. Or in. However you call it. 

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/coplanar_zpsf063b0f5.jpg


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## ButchC (Oct 7, 2013)

Is that bottom wheel even adjustable?


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## Kevin (Oct 7, 2013)

Yes but not tonight.


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 7, 2013)

That saw looks like a beast. I love it


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2013)

It's been running great for 2 days. I stopped trying to center the back of the gullets on the centerline of the tires, because for these tires that's not how you do it so said the Delta tech. My tires are not crowned enough to have to do that. So once I stopped doing that it returned to normal. I had rewatched that bandsaw tutorial set up again recently when someone posted and realized I had never tried centering the back of the gullets on the centerline. For those that own a saw like mine - don't do that! :dash2::dash2::dash2: Leave good enough alone. 

Now that I got it running like a new one except better than most of the new ones you can buy today, I cannibalized the fence and half the rails off a table saw I never use anymore. I was even able to take the sticky rule off and re=attach it to zero perfectly to my blade. This fence is da bomb. Beats the hell out of the makeshift clamp style I was using. This one is quick to adjust, alaways dead nuts accurate, and always immediately parrallel. This is one of those projects that once you finish you ask "Why didn't I do this 2 years ago?!"

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw5_zpseaced716.jpg

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw3_zps9f59439a.jpg

*See this small aluminum deflector that goes in the dust chute? Wanna guess how much it costs? *

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw1_zps69b3b352.jpg

So what do you think, $10? :no dice. more please:

So you think maybe $20? :no dice. more please:

C'mon, think OUTRAGEOUS. So now how much you think? $50? :no dice. more please:

No, $99 before shipping and tax. That's not a misprint I checked several sources ereplacementparts etc. All have it listed with the same part number and all list it for $99. 

http://i1077.Rule #2/albums/w468/WoodBarter/bandsaw4_zps0e69b003.jpg

The HDPE one works just fine. Cost me 10 minutes of time and about 7 cents of material. 

This thing is cutting so perfectly that last night I was walking around grabbing pieces of wood and just resawing for fun. I've never had everything on this saw set up like exactly like I wanted until now. Why didn't I do this 2 years ago!!!

Anyone want to scab an old rail and fence system off a an old table saw this is the way to go. No measuring at all the fence rule is dead on. See you later I think I see a piece of 4/4 wood lying in the corner that needs to be two 1/2" book matches.


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

Do you get any blade drift? Can you adjust the fence with the drift? My old small band saw was a piece of crap and had very little blade tension so I never noticed the blade drift . My new saw however i get blade drift and have to clamp a board to the fence and then shim one end to the drift, if I don't do that the fence is worthless, the wood wants to walk away from the fence


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2013)

With the carter guides and new tires I haven't had any drift problems at all. If I ever do - and I probably will eventually, the fence is the easiest to adjust that I have had on any table saw - I can almost adjust it on the fly. Takes only a few seconds. There's not much downside to this setup so far.


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 10, 2013)

Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up,  nothing like a well tuned tool.  I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post.


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

Kevin said:


> With the carter guides and new tires I haven't had any drift problems at all. If I ever do - and I probably will eventually, the fence is the easiest to adjust that I have had on any table saw - I can almost adjust it on the fly. Takes only a few seconds. There's not much downside to this setup so far.



Which carter guides did you get? I have been looking at them for about 2 weeks now, the only kit they have for my saw I have to order an upgrade kit for it to make it handle an 1 1/4" blade, I'm guessing its just 4 more bearings, the kits around $250 and another $50 for the upgrade.

I've been looking to upgrade my fence as well, was thinking about milling a big chunk of 3x3 aluminum I have into a a fence with t-slots and threaded holes so I can add fence extensions etc for different sawing but I may keep an eye on craigslist for an old junk table saw with a good fence on it


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

Also on setting where the band tracks on the tire, I've always set the blade to the center of the tire, maybe I'm doing it wrong, I'm not sure if my tires have enough crown to set the gullet edge at the center of the tire without flattening the set of the teeth


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up,  nothing like a well tuned tool.  I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post.



As much as you know about tools, you still might get Louis Iturra's catalog. He's a true bandsaw guru but his forte is 14" saws. His catalog is the bible for 14" saws. Let me know if you want his phone number - you may already know him.


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2013)

jimmyjames said:


> Which carter guides did you get? ...



I don't remember the model number it's been too long since I bought them. I think they are for the Delta "C" model? I could look it up but it won't help you since I doubt your saw and mine are the same. You must have a beast of a saw f it accepts a 1 1/4" blade. Mine acepts a 1" but Louis said for the difference in the money it wasn't worth it because the 3/4 blade I use for resawing performs just as well. What kind of saw do you have?



jimmyjames said:


> Also on setting where the band tracks on the tire, I've always set the blade to the center of the tire, maybe I'm doing it wrong, I'm not sure if my tires have enough crown to set the gullet edge at the center of the tire without flattening the set of the teeth



It depends on the degree of angle of the crown. But I am far from an expert on tires. I run Firestone Transforce AT on my trucks and that's about all I know about tires. :i_dunno:


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

I can actually put an 1 1/2" blade on it but the price difference between 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 isn't worth double the cost to me. The saw is the old style jet jwbs-20 the new model only takes an 1 1/4


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## Mike1950 (Oct 10, 2013)

Your saw has a lot of the same pieces as mine but they are definitely different. My blade 11' 9" I have stock guides- the same puny dust collection tube. It does not have the little dust deflector you replaced. Dust collection on mine is horrible. How is yours? Mine also only takes up to 1"- I have never used more then 3/4 and most resawing I do is with a thin 1/2"- I was using a 3/8" I got with the saw until I finally broke it. I liked the thin kerf.


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2013)

I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

Kevin said:


> I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?



99% of the stuff i cut on my bandsaw starts off being 6"+ thick and i use an aggresive blade , i dont think you can get a 1.3 tpi blade in smaller blades can you? The aggressive blade allows me to plow through green blocks like a mad man. I did try it with a 3tpi blade x3/4" but im guessing the 1.3tpi 1.25" blade cut 3 times faster, sure the cut quality might be slightly less but when your cutting turning blanks...... oh and not to mention the wider blade is easier to keep a straight cut when free handing without a fence.


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## DKMD (Oct 11, 2013)

jimmyjames said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> > I don't know why you'd even want to run a 1.5" blade or even a 1.25" for a shop band saw. It's kind of like garlic. I love it but after a certain point it just quits making sense to keep increasing it. But either way it shouldn't be double the cost - where are you pricing your blades?
> ...



I've seen 1.3tpi 1" blades, I think... I don't recall ever seeing one smaller than that. 

Since you're cutting a lot of green wood, you might try the beeswax trick for keeping your blades clean... I keep a block near the saw and rub it against the blade(while the saw is running)every few cuts. So far, it's the best thing I've found for preventing the buildup of gunk on my blades.


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## barry richardson (Oct 11, 2013)

Lennox makes a 2 tpi in 3/4 inch. 

Kevin, happiness is a well tuned bandsaw with a new blade aint it?


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## Kevin (Oct 11, 2013)

Yes sawing green changes things Jim. I resaw all that stuff on my mill - I wasn't thinking about sawing mostly big green stuff on the shop saw. I do it occasionally but not often.


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## BarbS (Oct 11, 2013)

I've used a 1" 3tpi from Timberwolf, though I've found the 1/2" works just as well, it seems to me. I highly recommend the quality of their blades, and they have a great price right now on a 3-blade pack for green wood sawing: http://www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php#3


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## jimmyjames (Oct 11, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Yes sawing green changes things Jim. I resaw all that stuff on my mill - I wasn't thinking about sawing mostly big green stuff on the shop saw. I do it occasionally but not often.



Someday I will have that luxury when I get my mill done  also I go with the 1 1/4 blades since I'm getting them for $28 a piece, pretty cheap for a 154 1/2" blade. I almost bit the bullet a few weeks back and ordered a carbide tipped blade but for $250 would it last 10x longer than a steel blade? The 1 1/4 blades I use now last quite a while, I push them hard in thick stuff and I just now switched to my second blade, the first blade cut an awfully lot of blanks, I probably pushed 5000 pounds of wood through it or more I'm guessing.


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## Kevin (Oct 11, 2013)

I'm definitely going to get a carbide blade for my shop saw but not for my mill I know I'd wreck it pronto. 

I don't think your price for that blade is all that good. Call Robert at 877-420-9235 (Kenne-saw Supply in Georgia) and ask him to quote you on that blade. I'm paying quite a bit less for Munks blades 1.5" x 158" . . . . .


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## jimmyjames (Oct 11, 2013)

Cool I will have to give him a shout, is that the brand your using for your mill?


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## jimmyjames (Oct 11, 2013)

I will call him and see what his price is on 196" blades for my mill as well


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## Sprung (Oct 11, 2013)

Kevin said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> > Glad you got her all figured out and tuned up,  nothing like a well tuned tool.  I might be fiddlin with my delta 14 and doing a little improvement to it, if I do I will post.
> ...



Kevin, good to see that you were able to get that beast tuned up! Would you mind sharing Iturra's number with me too? I've read many places that he is THE guy to talk to about bandsaws, but especially about the 14". And since I've got a Delta 14" that I'm looking at ordering some stuff for as soon as I have the money to, I think it would be good for me to call him, learn some things, and place an order with him.


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## Kevin (Oct 11, 2013)

Iturra Design 904 642 2802 (Louis) Ask for his catalog too.


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## Kevin (Oct 11, 2013)

Jimmy yes I use Munks from Kenne-saw for the mill and bladrunners for the shop saw. The bladerunner is the same as the Woodslicer except cheaper through Louis. Not what you're looking for for green wood though - I don't think he has oit in 1 tpi but Robert a Kenne-saw might.


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