# Need some bandsaw blade recommendations



## Schroedc (Dec 8, 2017)

Looking for 93 1/2 inch long, probably 3/4 wide blades for my Rockwell for processing a bunch of wood into blanks.

Would like something that will work well in harder stuff, go relatively quickly, and leave a halfway decent finish so I can wet it and show grain.

Anyone have a reasonably priced recommendation? Anyone use the Timber Wolf blades and how to they compare for the price? Not looking to go carbide at this time unless a smoking deal could be found.


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## Mike1950 (Dec 8, 2017)

I use carbon steel from supercut $14 for a 133". work for me 1/2 inch 3 TPI. I cut a lot of wood with these. and they cut fine until ya hit a rock - and then they are ruined- like any other blade. If you cut dirty stuff do not spend money on blades. also beware of spendy blades with small kerf if cutting green wood- you are wasting your money.


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## kweinert (Dec 8, 2017)

I've been using some from sawblade.com and I've been very satisfied with them. There are a lot of different options for blade types. An example is https://www.sawblade.com/order-hard-back-carbon-qsaw-band-saw-blades.cfm where basically all the 3/4" blades are $22.39.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 8, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> I use carbon steel from supercut $14 for a 133". work for me 1/2 inch 3 TPI. I cut a lot of wood with these. and they cut fine until ya hit a rock - and then they are ruined- like any other blade. If you cut dirty stuff do not spend money on blades. also beware of spendy blades with small kerf if cutting green wood- you are wasting your money.



Thanks Mike, gave them a call, like the free shipping and a free blade if you order a dozen so ordered a mix of them for resaw and other stuff.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Mike1950 (Dec 8, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> Thanks Mike, gave them a call, like the free shipping and a free blade if you order a dozen so ordered a mix of them for resaw and other stuff.


yes They are great to deal with. I am about 25 miles from them. I have used more expensive blades but best bang for buck. Their "gold" carbide resaw is a nice blade but like others- narrow kerf- great for resaw- self destructs in green wood- heat+metal= dull. And you can guess how I learned this..... $$$


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## Schroedc (Dec 8, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> yes They are great to deal with. I am about 25 miles from them. I have used more expensive blades but best bang for buck. Their "gold" carbide resaw is a nice blade but like others- narrow kerf- great for resaw- self destructs in green wood- heat+metal= dull. And you can guess how I learned this..... $$$



I've been using their 14tpi ones meant for metal to cut acrylics and such (Northern tool has them) but figured some 3tpi and 6tpi are probably better if I'm going to be cutting up a tom of hardwood in the near future.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tony (Dec 8, 2017)

Just my 2 cents, I tried Timber Wolf blades years ago and was highly disappointed with them. I run Carter blades on my Rockwell. Tony

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Mike1950 (Dec 8, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> I've been using their 14tpi ones meant for metal to cut acrylics and such (Northern tool has them) but figured some 3tpi and 6tpi are probably better if I'm going to be cutting up a tom of hardwood in the near future.



I have 3 tpi on one saw and the 6 on another. I am happy with their performance.


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## The100road (Dec 8, 2017)

I just put on this “woodturners bandsaw blade” from highland woodworking. Has a thicker Kerf supposed to be better for wet woods. So far so good. But even after watching numerous amounts of YouTube videos I still can’t make the “blade drift” go away completely. 14” delta bandsaw.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx


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## Schroedc (Dec 8, 2017)

The100road said:


> I just put on this “woodturners bandsaw blade” from highland woodworking. Has a thicker Kerf supposed to be better for wet woods. So far so good. But even after watching numerous amounts of YouTube videos I still can’t make the “blade drift” go away completely. 14” delta bandsaw.
> 
> https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx



Are you stoning the back of the blade?


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## The100road (Dec 8, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> Are you stoning the back of the blade?



Seeing as though I’ve never heard of this tell now. Probably not. Haha. 

Great. More videos to watch. 

That will help with drift? 

My main problem was the blade not being centered on the wheel. I got that fixed. It improved greatly on thinner wood but still drifts a lot on anything 2.5 or thicker. 

Don’t really want to do the fence adjustment thing.


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## barry richardson (Dec 8, 2017)

I have used supercut and like them, but use lennox mostly. For a 14" bandsaw I would recommend a flexback blade. For seasoned hardwood I would go no less than 4 tpi, 3tpi is just to grabby on the hard stuff, gets kinda hairy. Do you have a jointer, they work great for smoothing up the side of a blank for show, not pen blanks though lol, I agree with the above that Timberwolf are over rated and overpriced, I bought some one time, cut and lasted about the same as Lennox but twice the price...

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Sprung (Dec 8, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> Not looking to go carbide at this time unless a smoking deal could be found.



Colin, I was just in Rockler in Burnsville earlier today and they have a Laguna carbide blade in their clearance/closeout section for a good price. And I believe it was the length you're looking after. I probably would've tried to buy it and sneak it in, but since I have a riser block on my saw, I need a 105" blade...

As far as Timberwolf blades, I've run through a couple 1/2" ones - 3 or 4 tpi range - and was not impressed with the life on them.


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## rocky1 (Dec 8, 2017)

The100road said:


> Seeing as though I’ve never heard of this tell now. Probably not. Haha.
> 
> Great. More videos to watch.
> 
> ...



Turn your saw on, and using a wet stone, lightly work the back corners and back of the blade to round them over slightly, and remove any minor burrs, that may cause drag, resulting in drift.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## phinds (Dec 8, 2017)

My experience w/ Timberwolf was TERRIBLE. OK for roughing bowl blanks but absolutely could not get it to track straight no matter what kind of adjustments I made.


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## David Hill (Dec 10, 2017)

FWIT, I ‘ve been using Ellis blades, flex back. 3-4 tooth, 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Couldn’t beat the price.
I cut green, dry, whatever wood. I resharpen when needed myself, really easy with my Dremel (takes about 10 min). Can resharpen 4-5 times— as long as no nail/rock, etc.

Reactions: Like 1


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## David Van Asperen (Dec 10, 2017)

@David Hill 
I want to learn to sharpen my own bandsaw blades including the ones for my bandsaw mill . Would you mind showing/telling how you do that with your dremel?


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## phinds (Dec 10, 2017)

David Van Asperen said:


> @David Hill
> I want to learn to sharpen my own bandsaw blades including the ones for my bandsaw mill . Would you mind showing/telling how you do that with your dremel?


I second the motion


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## David Hill (Dec 10, 2017)

David Van Asperen said:


> @David Hill
> I want to learn to sharpen my own bandsaw blades including the ones for my bandsaw mill . Would you mind showing/telling how you do that with your dremel?



Chech you pm

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Wildthings (Dec 10, 2017)

phinds said:


> I second the motion


I third it


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## David Hill (Dec 10, 2017)

@Wildthings, @phinds , @Tony 
Ok, here’s what I sent @David Van Asperen (hope you don’t mind)
After watching all the youtube stuff—I’m just not that AR (anal). There had to be a simpler way.
With my Dremel, I use the GRAY chainsaw sharpening bits, usually come 2 to a pkg.
I run the bandsaw guide all the way up to expose as much blade as can. Now the simple part.. the bit is perpendicular to the blade, with the dremel running at your comfortable speed, start down the blade toward rhe table following the contour, generally not too many sparks flying, doesn”t take much pressure. When you’re in s gullet, go up to follow it— thats what gets the tooth sharp. Coming down the front of the blade gets it smooth.
Once you get to the table, stop & pull down more blade & start at the top. I usually mark where I start with a sharpie— or use the weld if its visible.
Can sharpen my 18” bandsaw— 11 ft in less than 15 min.
I don’t worry about the offset from tooth/tooth.(can give you a headache, & doesn’t matter to me)
It does great for my needs.

Dave H

Reactions: Like 4


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