# Chainsaw Questions - Husqvarna 33



## tocws2002 (Apr 26, 2020)

So I picked up an older Husky 33 at a yard sale several years ago on the cheap...real cheap...I'm talking $5 cheap. Was told the saw ran fine, but leaked gas like crazy. Figured for $5 it was worth a buying, so I took the saw home, cleaned it up, put fuel in it, started on the 3of or 4th pull and it ran good. But the noticed a circle of gas on my driveway. Sure enough, the gas tank (2 part, clam shell design) leaked like crazy at the bottom. Bought a new gasket, which slowed the gas leak, so I made one out of 1/4" cork I had on hand. This worked pretty well and the little saw filled what infrequent use I had at the time. There were some other minor issues with the on/off switch wiring that I "fixed", but I never spent much time on it. 

Fast forward a couple of years after I got a couple of new/used saws the 33 sat lonely on the shop. A while back I decided to go through the saw (stripping it down, cleaning, making proper electric repairs, etc) to see of there was any life left in it. Keep in mind I don't know a much about small engines so I was using this as a learning experience also
I took the saw apart, started cleaning it up, then life, work, kids activities, etc. took precedence over the 33, so the parts sat in a box in my garage until this weekend when my oldest boy (14 years old) wanted something to do. He's interested in old cars (preferably Mustangs) and wants to rehab one some day so I told him to get that chainsaw running again, learning as much about it as he could along the way so he can build his knowledge about engines so someday, when the time comes for him to work on his own car he won't be going in blind.

Here are pics I tool when I I disassembled it 2 years ago.



 


Knowing the saw is older and I had already disassembled it, he went into it at a slight deficit, but I figured it wasn't the end of the world if the saw never ran again, but some knowledge was gained. I found a service manual, which is helpful, but the pics are really bad (think a photocopy of a photocopy of a photocopy of a...you get the idea).

This weekend, my boy has completely disassembled the saw and is wanting to know the next steps. I've looked at the piston and cylinder and, to my very untrained eye, they seem to be okay. Thoughts?



 



 

Again, I am not a small engine guy. What are some things we should look at, check, replace, etc when reassembling the ole 33? Specific places we should or shouldn't lube, oil, etc?

He's cleaned the carb, but I'm thinking we may end up replacing it after we get the main parts back together and attempt to start it. Don't want to sink a whole bunch of money into this, but willing to spend some if it looks like the thing will run again.

Below is a list of somethings I know we'll have to do
1. Somehow we misplaced the throttle linkage between yesterday and this morning, so we'll have to fabricate one of it doesn't turn up. 

2. Figure out a solution to the leaking gas tank/gasket. Any good gasket-maker in a tube that works for gasoline?

3. New on/on switch - the old one is hiding somewhere...

4. Properly rewire on/off switch and check other wires/connections. 

5. Replace clutch drum drive sprocket? Thoughts?



 

6. Chain brake/band was missing when I got the saw...replace? If so, where to source parts?

We've been taking pictures along the way, so if you have a question or need a pic of something, let me know.

I'm sure we will have a lot more questions as we go to assemble and try to get this saw running again, so please bear with us.

Thanks,

-jason

P.S. I'll go ahead and tag @woodtickgreg since he is our resident guru on chainsaws in hopes that he'll chime in as well.

Reactions: Like 2


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

Piston doesn't look to bad, shows some signs of blow by so I would replace the ring, that's common on single ring designs. Replace the clutch drum, its shot. Seeing the wear on the clutch drum tells me that it has some hours on it, hence the worn ring. Replace the lost throttle linkage, chances are slim that you'll get it right and it's a cheap part. Ebay is your friend for sourcing cheap parts. Use new gaskets and no gasket sealer of any kind other than 2 cycle oil on the gaskets.
Find my thread on Kevin's saw in the classroom and read it. It will give you some tips. Also look at the one called Marc's saw, this one wasn't repaired but it was a good diagnostic and will also show you some things to look at. 
Any questions ask away............

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

Also being that you have the crankshaft out check the bearings and make sure the are absolutely smooth and have no play. Replace the crank seals, they're cheap, and if they go bad you'll blow the engine and have a hard time trying to set the carb. You really needed to remove the clutch before tearing it down, it's going to be hard to do now, might be able to get a hold on it in a vice on the large porkchop weights, do not try and hold it by the journals as you'll damage them and ruin the crank. You need to get the clutch of to replace the crank seal.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

And the cylinder should be absolutely smooth without any vertical scratches.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 26, 2020)

@woodtickgreg Thanks for the quick reply. Will pass this info along to my son. I've gone through the 2 threads you mentioned (and others), but will refer back to them as we go along.

I'll see if I can find the throttle linkage on ebay, but it makes me mad that we had it yesterday and can't find it today.

Heading over to Ebay now, due to the age of the saw, hoping the gaskets, clutch drum, and the piston ring are still readily attainable. 

Thanks again,

-jason


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

Get a whole gasket kit, cheaper that way and youl have everything.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 26, 2020)

woodtickgreg said:


> And the cylinder should be absolutely smooth without any vertical scratches.



Best I can tell, the cylinder is as smooth as can be. I tried to get some pictures, but they weren't very good.



 



 

Thanks again, 

-jason


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

Best way to view the cylinder is by looking through the intake and exhaust ports to see the opposing cylinder wall.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 26, 2020)

woodtickgreg said:


> Also being that you have the crankshaft out check the bearings and make sure the are absolutely smooth and have no play. Replace the crank seals, they're cheap, and if they go bad you'll blow the engine and have a hard time trying to set the carb. You really needed to remove the clutch before tearing it down, it's going to be hard to do now, might be able to get a hold on it in a vice on the large porkchop weights, do not try and hold it by the journals as you'll damage them and ruin the crank. You need to get the clutch of to replace the crank seal.



Crankshaft bearings look smooth and clean. Found instructions in the service manual on how to reinstall, was trying to figure out how to install the 11 bearings/pins without losing them or cussing a bunch.

I temporarily reassembled some of it to have a better chance of getting the clutch off. Which I was able to without much trouble.












I believe these are the crank seals you are referring to that I should replace.









Found a throttle linkage and sprocket I'll probably be ordering tomorrow after I see if the seller has any other items I need for this saw.

-jason


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 26, 2020)

Yup those are the seals. Be sure to cover the threads for the oil drive with packing tape before sliding the seal on so you dont damage the seal. Grease the seal before the install.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 26, 2020)

Oh, and here's the best picture of the cylinder I could get through the exhaust port.


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 27, 2020)

I cant tell anything by the pic, just make sure it is smooth and you cant feel any ridges with your finger. I see some vertical lines but I cant tell if that's blow by or ridges from wear.


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## tocws2002 (Apr 27, 2020)

Definitely not any ridges or grooves in the cylinder, was happy about that. After previously reading your other posts before tearing this one down, I fully expected the piston and cylinder to be scored, but it was a pleasant surprise when they weren't.

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## tocws2002 (May 3, 2020)

Update: I've ordered some parts, including the piston ring, throttle linkage,sprocket, and one gasket. Still need to pick up the on/off switch. 

Being an older saw (1989) I'm having a hard time finding the crank seals and any of the remaining gaskets. May have to either reuse the gaskets or try to cut my own. May be several days before I get those parts in, but will update this thread accordingly. 

Thanks,

-jason

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg (May 3, 2020)

I'm assuming you have checked ebay?
Edit: I just looked, wow there really isn't much available for that saw. Dealer might have the crank seals.


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## tocws2002 (May 3, 2020)

Yeah, I've checked Ebay and quite a few other sites, as well as tried to cross reference part numbers, without much luck. I will see if the local dealer has the seals, which should be the last of the "hard to find" items.

-jason

Reactions: Like 1


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## tocws2002 (May 15, 2020)

Still trying to get the parts we need to replace. Just had an order canceled from Jack's Small Engines after waiting almost 2 weeks due to "parts no longer available". Will see if I can find the parts elsewhere. 

-jason

Reactions: Sincere 2


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## JLTibbetts (Jan 15, 2021)

Consider replacing the carb while you are at it. Rebuild will kits will cost you within a few bucks of a new one.
Maybe $20 on flea bay.


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## smacd11 (Sep 1, 2021)

Did you ever get this project back together? I'm trying to fix one myself and wondering if I'm missing parts to install the bar.


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## tocws2002 (Sep 1, 2021)

smacd11 said:


> Did you ever get this project back together? I'm trying to fix one myself and wondering if I'm missing parts to install the bar.



Yes and no. After sitting for months without working on the saw we finally got all the parts in and my son reassembled it. Put some gas in it and gave it a pull. After a few attempts we did get it to start, but needed to adjust the carb as the saw would die if the throttle was released. While working on that, it sounded a little off, so we shut it down. Upon closer inspection we found the flywheel key had sheared in two. Ordered a new one off ebay, but haven't installed it yet or attempted to restart and adjust the saw.

Post pics of what you working on so we can see what you think might be missing.

Thanks,

-jason


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## smacd11 (Sep 1, 2021)

Are there plates that sit on either side of the bar to sandwich it? Can you send pics of your bar setup?


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## tocws2002 (Sep 1, 2021)

Yours looks just like mine, here are some pics I took when I first disassembled the saw.


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## smacd11 (Sep 1, 2021)

Can you measure the thickness of your bar? Mine measures 0.150”. Looks like you are missing your brake band as well!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## tocws2002 (Sep 1, 2021)

smacd11 said:


> Can you measure the thickness of your bar? Mine measures 0.150”. Looks like you are missing your brake band as well!



Yep, brake band is missing. I'll measure bar later this evening for you.

-jason


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## tocws2002 (Sep 1, 2021)

I couldn't find my dial calipers, but measuring with a ruler it's close to 5/32" (0.156").

-jason


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## smacd11 (Sep 1, 2021)

Does your bar clamp tight then? When I tighten my nut completely the bar is quite sloppy. I'm contemplating returning the new bar/chain and scrapping the idea. Want a parts saw?! it runs great.


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## tocws2002 (Sep 2, 2021)

smacd11 said:


> Does your bar clamp tight then? When I tighten my nut completely the bar is quite sloppy. I'm contemplating returning the new bar/chain and scrapping the idea. Want a parts saw?! it runs great.



Yes, it tightens up without any play or slop. I'd be interested in the saw if you decide to return the bar and chain as long as shipping is cost effective. 

Thanks, 

-jason


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