# I Have A ?



## ghost1066 (Jan 6, 2014)

I want to build a knife or two using purchased blades that I can add the handle material to just to get a feel for putting one together. So here is what I need to know how do I determine the type of rivets, bolts, things that I need to attach the scales to the tang? I want to do a full tang knife and will probably use one with a brass guard. I am very fond of drop point skinners but it might be something else. 

Any help would be great since I have no idea where to start with picking fasteners or even what they are called exactly.


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## ironman123 (Jan 6, 2014)

Can't help. Don't make them, just use them.

Ray


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## Mike1950 (Jan 6, 2014)

There is a thread in the classroom that tells you how to do it.


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## NYWoodturner (Jan 6, 2014)

Tommy - If it is a kit you are ordering it will probably come with the pins you need for the guard and the scales. If not you just need to match the pin size to diameter of the hole. If your using a Corby rivet will list the diameter of the hole required. The diameter of the hole in the wood would be larger. If it does not include the pins, just use pin stock the same diameter as the hole you drill. Some will tell you that the diameter of the hole through the steel can be oversized to allow for easier assembly as long as the diameter of the hole in the scale is spot on. I think its a matter of makers choice. I don't make it oversized because in my mind if the the glue fails it would allow the scale to shift. 
I am by far not the person to be offering advice on this. I would reach out to Robert Flynt, Tomislav (Molokai), Cody Kilgore or Percy

Reactions: Like 5


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## robert flynt (Jan 6, 2014)

ghost1066 said:


> I want to build a knife or two using purchased blades that I can add the handle material to just to get a feel for putting one together. So here is what I need to know how do I determine the type of rivets, bolts, things that I need to attach the scales to the tang? I want to do a full tang knife and will probably use one with a brass guard. I am very fond of drop point skinners but it might be something else.
> 
> Any help would be great since I have no idea where to start with picking fasteners or even what they are called exactly.


 I use corby fasteners most and prefer them because they screw together. All the major knife supply companies carry them.


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## robert flynt (Jan 6, 2014)

NYWoodturner said:


> Tommy - If it is a kit you are ordering it will probably come with the pins you need for the guard and the scales. If not you just need to match the pin size to diameter of the hole. If your using a Corby rivet will list the diameter of the hole required. The diameter of the hole in the wood would be larger. If it does not include the pins, just use pin stock the same diameter as the hole you drill. Some will tell you that the diameter of the hole through the steel can be oversized to allow for easier assembly as long as the diameter of the hole in the scale is spot on. I think its a matter of makers choice. I don't make it oversized because in my mind if the the glue fails it would allow the scale to shift.
> I am by far not the person to be offering advice on this. I would reach out to Robert Flynt, Tomislav (Molokai), Cody Kilgore or Percy


 Scott, Your reply was spot on. Much better than mine!

Reactions: Like 1


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## ghost1066 (Jan 7, 2014)

Thanks guys I had to go look up what you were talking about but I think I have it now.


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## Molokai (Jan 7, 2014)

If you use two component epoxy the glue will not fail, at least it didnt happen to me. That thing holds over 200 kg in sq cm, depends on the temperature it sets on.
Make sure to clean the wood ( i use alcohol) before epoxy-ing. 
Beginners tend to squeeze scales too much and all the glue can escape out. Also you can scratch the wood underneath and drill some small holes like in the photo. See how i drill larger around the pin hole for epoxy to grip the pin material. 

If you buy pin material in larger stock, i also anneal pin material to make it soft. If its brass heat it to red and quench it in water. It will make it softer. 
For stainless heat it to yellow and let it cool down.
You can also use dremel or some kind of angle grinder and make scratches on metal, carefully not to grind near the edge.

I am struggling to translate technical terms so if anybody can correct anything.......

Reactions: Like 2


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## ghost1066 (Jan 7, 2014)

Molokai you explained it very well at least for me. I was a professional model builder for years and all of the techniques you described are ones we used daily. The drilled holes allow the epoxy to form extra pins within the scales which is one of my favorite things to do to hold pieces together.


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## NYWoodturner (Jan 7, 2014)

Tom - Good info on annealing the pins. I never thought of that. Two follow up questions though. In the case of a folder, would you recommend that for the scale pins ? the pivot pin or the bolster through pins (May not be correct names but they make sense in my head) and second would you temper them if it was a low temp temper?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Molokai (Jan 8, 2014)

For folders i dont recommend annealing anything. I dont have experience in folders and i always think of that as a next step in knifemaking. I think the lock needs to be hardened.
I will send you some links...
My advice. Start with friction folders. Much easier. 
I would made one already but having trouble finding all that screws and pins etc.


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