# Anyone ever make a box for a vape MOD?



## Keith (Dec 29, 2014)

My cousin owns a vape shop here in town, and he asked me to make him a wooden box for a MOD he is building. I am going to post pictures of the build. He gave me the metal box and told me he rest was up to me as far as the wood I used. I only have to make the box. Wish me luck, I've never attempted anything this small before. Could be a lil gold mine if it works out for me, but the first will be a prototype.


----------



## Kevin (Dec 29, 2014)

Most of these guys don't even know what a vaporizer is they'll think something from Buck Rogers.

Reactions: Creative 1


----------



## Brink (Dec 29, 2014)

I use to have one when I was little to ease a congested chest.


----------



## barry richardson (Dec 29, 2014)

Like an e-cigarette?


----------



## NYWoodturner (Dec 29, 2014)

Not gonna lie - I googled it


----------



## Keith (Dec 29, 2014)

Here is one that I Googled, I hope I don't get in trouble for posting it


----------



## Brink (Dec 29, 2014)

Cool! Much nicer than mine.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 6


----------



## Tony (Dec 29, 2014)

We're Old School in my house!View attachment 67443


----------



## Kevin (Dec 29, 2014)

A vape is short for vaporizer - a device used to inhale the smoke of tobacco and stuff, at lower temps than smoking it out of paper and other traditional devices such as pipes and water bongs and stuff. I do a lot of reading late at night that's the reason I know.

Reactions: Funny 5 | Informative 1


----------



## Tony (Dec 29, 2014)

Don't know what happened....


----------



## Tony (Dec 29, 2014)

I give up, can't get the picture to attach, sorry


----------



## Kevin (Dec 29, 2014)

Tony you've attached pictures plenty of times what probs are you having can I help?


----------



## NYWoodturner (Dec 29, 2014)

Kevin said:


> A vape is short for vaporizer - a device used to inhale the smoke of tobacco and stuff, at lower temps than smoking it out of paper and other traditional devices such as pipes and water bongs and stuff. I do a lot of reading late at night that's the reason I know.


Whats a water bong Kevin????

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## Kevin (Dec 29, 2014)

NYWoodturner said:


> Whats a water bong Kevin????









Based on my reading it causes this after its use . .




​

Reactions: Funny 4 | +Karma 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Tony (Dec 29, 2014)

It's not funny now, but I'll try again,

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## Tony (Dec 29, 2014)

Kevin said:


> what probs are you having can I help



Thanks Kevin, I think it was just my phone. TA


----------



## Kevin (Dec 29, 2014)

Tony said:


> It's not funny now, but I'll try again,



Yes it's funny can't you see that laugh icon below your post?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Aurora North (Dec 30, 2014)

Are you talking about the little table stand vapes for "tobacco" with the bowl and mouth piece or the vapes more like ecigs, but the larger battery/canon style. A buddy of mine just asked if I could make him a wood casing for his monster vape cig... Actually cig isn't even correct. Those things shot gun so much more into your lungs than ecigs. Don't even know what class to refer to them as besides canons... But I have been meaning to buy some components for a table/hose style vape and make it with nice wood for those who enjoy herb. I'll be watching man, either one I hope it comes out nice!


----------



## Blueglass (Dec 30, 2014)

I have a friend that refers to the E-cigs as sucking a robot d**k. I now think that every time I see someone put one in their mouth.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 3


----------



## Kevin (Dec 30, 2014)

Blueglass said:


> I have a friend that refers to the E-cigs as sucking a robot d**k. I now think that every time I see someone put one in their mouth.



I wouldn't know. I've never smoked an e-cig.

Reactions: Funny 2


----------



## David Van Asperen (Dec 31, 2014)

Ok you cleared up the vape part ,what is the MOD part?


----------



## gman2431 (Dec 31, 2014)

I just got asked to make something similar yesterday. Interested to see how this goes. 

MOD iS what they do when they trick out their vaporizer. Its just some wiring and multiple coils to heat the juice. I've heard of guys doing it wrong and making a sweet little hand cannon that really gets you good when you hit the button. Lol

And no I don't vape... And yes I know way to much about that dam vape stuff... A buddy does it and it's ridiculous, the amount of stuff he blows out is uncalled for.

Reactions: Funny 3


----------



## Keith (Jan 28, 2015)

Here are a few pictures, been down and out from the shop, had a dang appendicitis January 4th,


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Mar 6, 2015)

Yes, in fact, you could say I'm very 'familiar' with these...Here are a few pictures of some very "High End" mods. It's not smoke, it's vapor ;)

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


----------



## ssgmeader (Mar 21, 2015)

Wow there is now 3 seperate threads on the forum referring to vape mod boxes. I knew it was only a matter of time. Niche market but from what I've seen a little bit of pretty wood goes a long way price wise on these things.


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Mar 21, 2015)

@ssgmeader, oh man...you are spot on with that; I can tell you that blocks that are stabilized, double dyed maple burls with good figure are being sold anywhere from $50-$90 a block depending on the size of the block. People will get them "at cost" for $30 in 5"x 2.25" x 1.25" and sell it for $45 to even $60 (outrageous). But, the real money these guys are making with demand for the same dimensions in length/width listed earlier, but blocks that are 1.75"- 2" thick. These blocks will be $50 at cost with raw wood, stabilizer, and dyes but then sold for an average of $75-90 a block. I've seen some go for over $100!!

*Oh, I forgot to mention exotics...an amboyna burl block can go for up to $160-$170...


----------



## ssgmeader (Mar 21, 2015)

@CAWoodCollector07 So is it because the people making the mod's just aren't familiar with sourcing good wood at reasonable prices?

That's good for wood dealers like some of the guys on here or bad ..if that niche market starts to drive prices up because they just don't know what they're doing.


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Mar 21, 2015)

@ssgmeader that's an excellent question...the main issue is many of the guy's making the mods (aka modders) for these high end ones are located in Malaysia. If you don't know already, it's right now 95 degrees there with 70% humidity and is like that for most of the year. Also, to answer your question as the why some will charge so much is simply because the highly sought after wood species along with solid resources for stabilizing services and dying are not available in their country. So, they rely on importing it from people in the US who do have sources...this takes time on the person selling the wood, shipping it out, communication, etc. along with trusting with payment so personally, I do find it only right to make 'some' money because it's taking time. But, others will 'abuse' this lack of wood resource for the modders who clearly rely on them (i mean, it makes up 80%+ of the whole thing) so will pay. Going back discussing the climate of Malaysia, I have spent hours trying to educate modders on proper ways, tools they need to buy, storage, etc. in the workplace when the wood is exposed because if they don't take these precautions, the wood will absorb over 5% moisture content and that is the highest amount that they should 'safely' work with. Otherwise, it get's placed on this frame and has other details and all the sudden the wood expands...then cracks...amongst other not good things. In summary, many of the modders aren't familiar with MANY aspects of this wood...but personally, I am a man of integrity and have only charged wood at a fair price and help answer any questions without an ulterior motive. But guess who ends up getting contacted more often to provide wood from others?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Aurora North (Mar 22, 2015)

So these prices are on unworked, stabilized and dyed blanks before it even gets turned into a working MOD? Man if they're doing most of their buying on ebay you can kiss the prices goodbye. They're going to be even more absurd than a lot of them already are.

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## ssgmeader (Mar 22, 2015)

@CAWoodCollector07 My point was even though your not reselling the wood you now have access to better figure at more reasonable price...meaning your profit margin should be substantially better ...or you can beat competitors price points on your finished mod...sounds like a win to me.


----------



## Kevin (Mar 22, 2015)

CAWoodCollector07 said:


> the main issue is many of the guy's making the mods (aka modders) for these high end ones are located in Malaysia.



Joe why is this? Seems like there wouldn't be a big challenge to source the electronic units so why aren't US craftsman on this bandwagon too?


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Mar 23, 2015)

ssgmeader said:


> @CAWoodCollector07 My point was even though your not reselling the wood you now have access to better figure at more reasonable price...meaning your profit margin should be substantially better ...or you can beat competitors price points on your finished mod...sounds like a win to me.



@ssgmeader - Very good point...my profit margin has risen substantially as I WAS reselling at one point. It's actually now taking off more than I expected with the demand and the modders do indeed appreciate the wood I source. 

@Kevin - It's not the electronic components nor the (most cases a SS C-Frame) that is the issue...it's that they have lacked the education on how to properly store stabilized wood in a HIGH humid workplace and when a partially worked on piece of wood is left out (especially if it wasn't stabilized professionally in the first place), it will suck up moisture content % in a matter of minutes. This in turn, creates many possible issues. One being, once they go back to the CNC machine with the wood, it will break. If not that, eventually cracking and expansion will occur so it will either not fit on the mod depending no the degree of expansion, or fit and they sell it to someone only to find the wood cracking, expanding a few weeks later. 

There has been a huge influx of US based "modders" trying to make it these days.


----------



## Aurora North (Mar 23, 2015)

In response to Kevin,

I also think there aren't a lot of US craftsmen making them because it's still a relatively new subculture that people outside of it aren't familiar with. But for guys who smoke from these things they're insane. A buddy of mine does and he carries around a shoulder bag full of different flavor mixes and parts as well as 3 mods. All that for smoking some vapor. 

In Colorado and Washington where marijuana has been legalized, people are mixing thc oil into the vials and smoking. Pretty hard to tell the difference when it's in oil form.


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Mar 23, 2015)

Aurora North said:


> In response to Kevin,
> 
> I also think there aren't a lot of US craftsmen making them because it's still a relatively new subculture that people outside of it aren't familiar with. But for guys who smoke from these things they're insane. A buddy of mine does and he carries around a shoulder bag full of different flavor mixes and parts as well as 3 mods. All that for smoking some vapor.
> 
> In Colorado and Washington where marijuana has been legalized, people are mixing thc oil into the vials and smoking. Pretty hard to tell the difference when it's in oil form.



So I guess I must be insane @Aurora North haha. If it bothers you so much, why are you "buddies" with an 'insane' guy? By the way, that THC oil you are talking about is too viscous to be vaporized in the devices we are speaking of. Why is that any of our business anyway what people do in that regard anyway? All I know, is that hundreds of thousands of people aren't dying from *smoking *cigarettes because of switching to vaping *vapor*. If some have the money, they can afford a fancy one with nice wood one it too. That's what it boils down to for me in regards to contributing my passion for wood and providing beautiful pieces to modders...it makes people happy and will ultimately ends up in someones' hands to use to vape, and not smoke... living a healthier, longer life for their families and friends. 
I provided a link that you may find useful:
http://casaa.org/Home_Page.php

Reactions: Great Post 2


----------



## Aurora North (Mar 24, 2015)

That's what I get for typing on my phone. Didn't mean to call all modders insane in the literal sense though that's how it ended up being written down and how you took it.

To clarify, it doesn't bother me a bit. The subculture is what it is and I couldn't care less. I'm friends with my buddy because I don't solely base our friendship on the fact that he vapes (which doesn't bother me) and I've known him longer than ecigs have been around.

When I was saying insane in the last post I meant it in reference to how into it you guys are; but the phone typing didn't make it that far apparently. I was meaning insane in the amount of stuff my buddy carries around with him to vape. Literally a full messenger bag filled with glass vials, wire, tools, spare components, multiple mods. I tease him by asking where the needle is whenever I walk in and he's mixing flavors. He has his little eye dropper out and he's filling glass vials and shaking them up and it all looks like more than what it really is. It's just funny to me to see the difference between us. He carries around this huge bag of stuff and has this big process; I pull out a pack and walk outside. I think the the mods themselves are pretty darn cool gadgets though. I just don't want to have to deal with all the other stuff like he does. 

And about the thc oil I simply stated what mods were also being used for which is also contributing to their popularity. You're not going to convince me that people aren't using mods to burn thc oil because my friends in CO vape it like this all the time. Hash honey, BHO, whatever you want to call it, can be processed further to work with mods.


----------



## Kevin (Mar 24, 2015)

Aurora North said:


> You're not going to convince me that people aren't using mods to burn thc oil because my friends in CO vape it like this all the time. Hash honey, BHO, whatever you want to call it, can be processed further to work with mods.



So what! How does that have one iota of relevance to this thread? If they want to smoke panther piss with them what's it to you? Joe is adding good content on the subject matter and you're preaching your biased (and IMO flawed) moral values on others. Typing it on your phone has nothing to do with it. 



Aurora North said:


> When I was saying insane in the last post I meant it in reference to how into it you guys are;


You're not passionate about anything? Oh you are, but *your* passions are "legit" and "moral" so therefore we should all adopt your philosophies on life. Sorry Yusuke you really struck a nerve. This kind of hypocrisy goes all over me.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Aurora North (Mar 24, 2015)

Hey Kevin,

I would say I am insane about woods. I would say I'm insane about rock climbing/kayaking/camping/fishing/shooting. I would say I'm insane about glass, metal, and wood artwork. I am using the word insane with the meaning in my head as a way to describe things as "cool". I'm from California and this is how I grew up using the word to describe exciting things.

when Daveduckman posts a thread titled "ugly wood for sale" do you think it's going to literally be ugly? When I read that I automatically expect to see some sweet ambrosia maple. When cliff posts a thread titled "Sick HRB slab" I don't assume he's meaning sick in the literal sense. I interpret that as "oh man this is going to be some damn gorgeous HRB slab that I can't afford but what to buy anyway.

So when I said "these guys are insane" I meant that people who are into modding are super excited about it. Or even better as you said Kevin, passionate. Which is in no way a negative thing and I certainly do not look down on it. It's an extremely good thing that people are so into it. Look how much business it provides to so many people. As a woodworker I can see a great niche market to sell finely crafted wooden MODs to these people who are so excited about it. That makes me excited because I have been toying with the idea of making some myself.

I am not sure why you thought I was coming off as biased against people who smoke cannabis. I have NEVER once listed my moral stance on the use of marijuana whether for medicinal or for recreation on this website because it is NOT the forum to do so. If you want to know where I stand on it meet me over at ICmag. So to assume my remark that there are also people out there that use MODs to vape THC oil portrays my feelings about cannabis in a negative manner, is completely wrong.

The relevance to this thread I was trying to convey to you or any other wood worker out there who might be interested in making wooden MODs is that your target market for sales is not only limited to those who vape for nicotine or purely for the flavored oils, but also those using them to vape cannabis oil. And where it is legalized (Washington and Colorado) that is a lot of potential sales. if anyone out there is interested in making these to sell then also think of where people who buy instruments for smoking cannabis go to purchase those items. I was simply trying to be helpful there and get people thinking of who their target market encompasses. The idea being you as a woodworker can be paid for your time and craftsmanship by someone who will appreciate what you made. The same as I appreciate finely made pistol grips, knives with wooden handles, wooden art work/turnings/pens, etc. Some of the things I'm "insane" about. 

I make dugouts. I say that they're for tobacco because I have to, but I know damn well they're intended for use with cannabis. I sell them online and to some local head shops (where one making MODs might also be able to move some product). I sell them with a glass one hitter pipe. Now if someone buys one of them off of me and uses it to smoke crack guess what; I don't care. What they do with it, what they choose to smoke with it is entirely their decision and does not bother me one bit. That's their prerogative and not one iota of my damn business.

I think this whole mess was just a simple misunderstanding due to my lingo vs your lingo. But I hope this clears it up. If it doesn't then take this to PMs and i'll be glad to try and explain what I meant further. I never intended my remark to end up causing a flame fest and hijack this thread.


----------



## SENC (Mar 24, 2015)

What Jefferson was saying was, Hey! You know, we left this England place 'cause it was bogus; so if we don't get some cool rules ourselves - pronto - we'll just be bogus too! Get it?

Reactions: Funny 2


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 13, 2015)

I've read all posts in this thread and you all have solid points about custom "Mods" being used by many. I too am a person that believes I saved a few years of my life that I could've lost if I hadn't started vaping to stop dipping. I dipped for 20 yrs of my 32 on this earth and nothing that I had tried previously ever worked in helping me to quit. So one day I went to purchase a vaping device for my fiancé in hopes it would help her to quit smoking. I will be the first to admit that I was extremely scepticle and just figured it was another "fad" that was catching on, but after buying the device and learning how it worked, then giving it to my fiancé to use, I found out within a matter of 24-48hrs that it could work. I bought the exact same device for myself two days later. I explained to the salesman, before buying the device, that I didn't smoke and only dipped. He proceeded to tell me that he did the same and it helped him. Long story short; that was 9 months ago without tobacco use and I'm pleased with how easy the transition was. I said all of that to say this. There's an extremely large number of people out there that are swapping over to vaping from tobacco use. What @CAWoodCollector07 is very true in regards to a very large number of people that are having custom dyed stabilized wood "Mods" made and are paying large amounts of money for someone to build them. They're purchsing custom devices that were previously made from someone else, for large amounts as well, if possible. The hardest part for someone who wants one is to find someone that will actually sell one and not holding onto for trade equity when searching for another brand, color, shape, etc. So what I'm trying to say is that if someone asks one of you to build one, then I personally believe it could be very beneficial to the builder financially and to take them up on their request. Social Media, as we all know, is used globally and these custom stabilized wood "Mods" are all over the globe as well. People who own these custom devices are using social media as a tool to sell and trade them all over the world and for showcasing what they currently own. So it's free advertising, for the builders and their work, on a scale that's much far greater than many would have had if they'd never built it. Many will not agree with me on this and that's ok, but I research this daily because I too am one of the individuals trying to find someone to build one for me. I'm not saying that I will give away my first born child to achieve have one made for me or anything, but I would like to own a custom piece that no one else can say they have. Hopefully prices do not sky rocket because of the demand for the materials used to produce one and at the end of the day everyone is happy. Yes I know that may be wishful thinking, but in my personal opinion, the individuals that are buildering the devices actually have the upper hand in hopefully preventing or maybe slowing down this event. If the builders had contracts that stated no reselling of the devices above a certain percent over the price originally paid or legal actions will be taken against the guilty party/parties involved as well as the "Modder" owns all rights to the design, name, etc. of the device unless released to whomever in written form and signed by all involved. This is the piece I won and want to be used for the "Mod" I want as my personal one. Thanks for your time and I know all that are reading/following will agree with my take on the topic and that's alright. Again it's just my personal opinion and that's all.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## barry richardson (Apr 13, 2015)

So where do you get the "hardware" for these? Sounds like something I need to get into... the wood fabricating part....

Reactions: +Karma 1


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 13, 2015)

Well from what I've gathered, from searching the Internet and asking a few of my buddies that build them (not the stabilized wood models) the things needed are all obtained through different websites online and eBay. A couple of my buddies build them using aluminum utility boxe instead of wood. I really like their work, but comparing aluminum and dyed stabilized wood mods is like night and day. Yes, both are built to achieve the same common goal by using a lot of the same parts, but the creativity that the wood allows to be used in constructing the "housing" portion of the device is unmatched by any aluminum one ever made, in my opinion. I saw few photos posted earlier in the thread and thought a few more may be helpful in showing differ shapes and ideas used when building.


----------



## Aurora North (Apr 13, 2015)

Whew... Those are damn nice. I really like that casted one. Are those little turned pieces for the mouth piece?


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

yea the mouth pieces are called "Drip tips" They are all usually turned. 
I make them out of Teflon (nothing sticks).

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

I haven't been in this thread for a while. I've been ironing out my own mod. So, basically milling tons of billet aluminum. I also tried my hand a stabilization. I'm in a humid part of the country, so i'm working with a local woodworker to create a place where i can get the wood to the lowest moisture possible before stabilizing.

I did a couple test runs and ended up with the pieces in the attachment. They were just for fun (to test out my new vacuum chamber). I learned a lot (mainly to make sure the wood was super dry).



I also bought a mod i had been looking for. It's built really well.


 
I upgraded the chip in this particular mod and have a complete breakdown of the unit in a video on youtube if anyone wants to check it out. -

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## barry richardson (Apr 13, 2015)

Looks like the wood would require some very precise milling. Seems you could very easily screw up a very expensive blank...


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

yea, we do a standard routed edge for the back section (the curve) and then CNC the front section (where the electronics go).

wood isn't always as easy to predict as aluminum :P

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Aurora North (Apr 13, 2015)

I was thinking the same thing Barry due to watching how pistol grips were precision milled. And to think I was going to try and make one with a router and drill press... I suppose I could but I'll have to make really precise jigs.

Just out of curiosity, did you have problems even after stabilizing wood that had a bit higher moisture content?

I'm starting to get set up to stabilize and cast my own blanks, but I was under the impression that the vacuum process would eliminate and replace any moisture in the wood with whatever choice stabilizer is used. Or, is there still some degree of moisture left behind even after stabilizing if you don't use wood that is ultra dry. What % moisture are you beginning the stabilization process at?


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 13, 2015)

@ Cole Mods----The two blanks tuned out nice!
I mentioned in a previous post that I'm looking for someone to make one for me like the Xone C-frame you purchased or something along those lines. I can provide the dyed stab wood blank, but that's it. I'd like one with an Sx350 instead of a Dna40. If you are taking on new projects, then would you please consider my request? You can send me a private message with any questions through FB or email me at contact info removed by staff member: please read the rules. Thanks for the thread and the possibility of achieving what I've been searching to own for a while now!


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

Aurora North said:


> I was thinking the same thing Barry due to watching how pistol grips were precision milled. And to think I was going to try and make one with a router and drill press... I suppose I could but I'll have to make really precise jigs.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, did you have problems even after stabilizing wood that had a bit higher moisture content?
> 
> I'm starting to get set up to stabilize and cast my own blanks, but I was under the impression that the vacuum process would eliminate and replace any moisture in the wood with whatever choice stabilizer is used. Or, is there still some degree of moisture left behind even after stabilizing if you don't use wood that is ultra dry. What % moisture are you beginning the stabilization process at?



the blanks i had were below 14% (i believe). If there is moisture in the wood, then the resin won't go where the moisture is. So you don't get full penetration. If you can get it SUPER dry, then you get better coverage.
by SUPER dry, i mean in an oven, then in an airtight container to cool, then directly into the resin.

That's my next project.


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

There are complaints throughout the vape world when it comes to stabilized wood. Many of the "high end" mods are having issues with their stabilized wood shrinking and deforming in a very short period of time. Which leads me to believe their current process is not very good.


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 13, 2015)

Justin Cheatwood said:


> @ Cole Mods----The two blanks tuned out nice!
> I mentioned in a previous post that I'm looking for someone to make one for me like the Xone C-frame you purchased or something along those lines. I can provide the dyed stab wood blank, but that's it. I'd like one with an Sx350 instead of a Dna40. If you are taking on new projects, then would you please consider my request? You can send me a private message with any questions through FB or email me at [email protected]. Thanks for the thread and the possibility of achieving what I've been searching to own for a while now!



Making a one-off mod is super expensive. I'll have pictures up of the mod i'm building and if you like it, we can use your wood for an insert.
Once i get the frame locked down, i won't change the design until the next version of the mod.

So, unfortunately you kind of have to deal with what's available unless you plan on making your own.


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 13, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Making a one-off mod is super expensive. I'll have pictures up of the mod i'm building and if you like it, we can use your wood for an insert.
> Once i get the frame locked down, i won't change the design until the next version of the mod.
> 
> So, unfortunately you kind of have to deal with what's available unless you plan on making your own.



Ok that's cool...do you have any rough sketches or pictures of what they look like or maybe some from an earlier design before you ironed out the wrinkles to get to where you're currently at? I'm not asking you to unveil anything before it's ready in case the final product is private. If you can't/won't release anything, then I understand completely. I'm just curious to know what other options/designs that I haven't seen before. Now don't get me wrong; I like the design of the C-Frame mods. If they are done right, the lines are clean and precise with the wood being the main focal point of the design. I just don't want to settle for a certain look and then see something that I could've had instead only if I'd waiting a little longer or talked to the right person. Again, I hope that I'm not offending anyone on here by requesting to have someone make one or providing my opinions pertaining to the information that I've shared. If so, please let me know because I'm a rookie to this site and don't want to cross any lines or offend anyone at all. Thanks guys!


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

My design is something of an upside down "L"

Thick front faceplate, thin upper section, no frame on the bottom.
I'm meeting with another machine shop today about some design tweaks.
I won't release pictures until the prototypes are done.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 14, 2015)

Ok good deal. I don't blame you at all for keeping things "under wraps" until the final design is complete. If you don't mind and are willing to converse about possibly taking on a build for me, then I'd really appreciate it. I'd also enjoy seeing your final design when you're ready to release some pictures of the finished product. Again, thanks for the response and look forward to seeing it!


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 14, 2015)

What is the standard sized blank for one of these contraptions?? I am not a smoker and have no desire to make them but I have plenty of wood I could supply the makers with.


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 14, 2015)

CAWoodCollector07 said:


> @ssgmeader, oh man...you are spot on with that; I can tell you that blocks that are stabilized, double dyed maple burls with good figure are being sold anywhere from $50-$90 a block depending on the size of the block. People will get them "at cost" for $30 in 5"x 2.25" x 1.25" and sell it for $45 to even $60 (outrageous). But, the real money these guys are making with demand for the same dimensions in length/width listed earlier, but blocks that are 1.75"- 2" thick. These blocks will be $50 at cost with raw wood, stabilizer, and dyes but then sold for an average of $75-90 a block. I've seen some go for over $100!!
> 
> *Oh, I forgot to mention exotics...an amboyna burl block can go for up to $160-$170...


Just curious as to where you are seeing these prices I just did a quick search on ebay and only found a small handfull of blanks much cheaper than the prices you shared.


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

Within the community there one or two guys that sell super high via facebook with 'silent' auctions. Basically like one or two guys preying on people that don't know the industry.

If people looking to buy used google they would be able to find blanks quite easily, but they don't want to I guess?


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 14, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Within the community there one or two guys that sell super high via facebook with 'silent' auctions. Basically like one or two guys preying on people that don't know the industry.
> 
> If people looking to buy used google they would be able to find blanks quite easily, but they don't want to I guess?


I did a few searches using "vape mods" "vape mod bodies" and a few other key words but cant seem to find any wood blanks for sale. Am I using the wrong key words in my search or am i missing something else?


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exoticdomesticwoods/655058367874010


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

You have basically PM that guy with a price. He shows no offers. He takes the highest 'bid'


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 14, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> You have basically PM that guy with a price. He shows no offers. He takes the highest 'bid'


I see that.... What a crazy way to buy anything but i guess when you have a cool product it is easier to do.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 14, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exoticdomesticwoods/655058367874010


This is the guy that I got my wood from. I won one of his auctions. Trust me when I say I got it cheap, but I may have a different definition that a lot of people on this site. He is selling his pieces for literally almost 10 times the amount that people consider expensive on here. Here is another piece I bought from him and the dimensions are 3.5x2.75x1.75 and being only a single colored dyed piece still cost me $163+shipping. The piece I won in the auction usually sells for $375-450 for the same size as mine when purchased out right. 


This picture is of a sample just to clarify, but I say again that both wood blanks I've uploaded are the same size at 3.5x2.75x1.75


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 14, 2015)

That is more than absurd for pricing!!!! I can't fathom selling wood for that cost. @TurnTex do you happen to know this guy?? I am just curious if he is using your product or something else entirely to get the colors he has in his wood that would justify the cost he is getting. I could see many of us being able to come up with some really cool pieces of wood at far better prices....


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

That's INSANE. I had no idea his prices were that high.

Reactions: Agree 3


----------



## Aurora North (Apr 14, 2015)

WOW... Well that surely puts into perspective how much these high end MODs must be selling for when fully completed. 

Having bought from this guy, have you had any issues with his stabilized blanks shrinking or distorting in any way? I suppose if he is the only one able to provide a truly stable blank then he pretty much has you by the balls. But man oh man that is a lot for a blank. 

I wonder if this is where it makes sense to invest in a vacuum oven? Do you think that would give be able to stabilize the wood better? I've been looking at them as well as standard lab ovens. My application is mainly for stabilizing slabs for box making. MODs are something I'll never get into due to the degree of precision tooling necessary, but I do want to make sure anything I stabilize is truly stable. 

I hope this is relevant to the conversation. I only ask about stabilization methods here because this seems to be a critical issue for the MODs also. If there is a better way to stabilize, I want to know about it.


----------



## manbuckwal (Apr 14, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> That's INSANE. I had no idea his prices were that high.




Why hasn't anyone exposed him and the ridiculous prices ????

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 14, 2015)

ALL the mods seem to have gaps. No mod has ever had a completely clean run. Like out of 50 maybe 10 won't gap on certain high end mods. 

Though others seem to be immune. A guy in Malaysia named Jemit seems to not have gaps. Myself and another guy in this forum have one of his. 

The gaps are usually small, but noticeable. It's a concern for the resale value of the mod. They all cost a specific amount retail, but if you are selling one you have bought, the gap plays a large role in it's long term value (among other things). I'm certainly concerned about how my experiments with stabilization will play out in the long run. I'm double and triple dying mine. So they go through the process 2 or 3 times. Theoretically this should help a bit.

Reactions: Sincere 1


----------



## Aurora North (Apr 14, 2015)

Interesting. I was just about to ask about double stabilizing the blanks.

I suppose my speculative thinking was the first round through the vacuum pot and oven stabilizes most of the wood blank with the curing process in the oven setting the acrylic and also drying out more moisture. Then it goes right back into the vacuum chamber to absorb any remaining acrylic it can and then baked once more. 

Though I do wonder how well a second round of cactus juice would really work or if the blank would pretty much be sealed up during the first round and unable to accept any more resin. In essence, trapping the remaining moisture inside the blank. 

Hopefully some of the guys who regularly stabilize can weigh in on this or if you have tried experimenting with this yourself. I was under the impression that the dye was just a pigment that penetrates the grain, but does not actually stabilize the wood.


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 15, 2015)

My double dying is all speculative.

I run one color, let it cool, sand all the surfaces (so no resin is caked up), then throw it in another color and re-vacuum. It bubbles, so i know there is air.
Then i repeat.
I've got one going in for it's 4th bath today ( maybe overkill).

But the multiple runs make some pretty cool colors.

http://i.Rule #2/iBKicpT.jpg

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Kevin (Apr 15, 2015)

This is all very fascinating. And unbelievable. And entertaining. This market is going to collapse as soon as enough guys figure out how to do it and with these prices I guarantee hundreds if not thousands of craftsman will be tooling up over then next year or two. It'll be interesting to see what these things cost this time next year as more and more modders become proficient at making high quality mods.

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## Aurora North (Apr 15, 2015)

It definitely gives cool coloring. Reminds me of a nebula with different colored gases. Have you tried running dyed cactus juice multiple times to see if you can further stabilize the wood and get out any remaining moisture?


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 15, 2015)

yea, it's multiple runs of dyed cactus juice. That one is two runs.

This one is two runs.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 2


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 15, 2015)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> That is more than absurd for pricing!!!! I can't fathom selling wood for that cost. @TurnTex do you happen to know this guy?? I am just curious if he is using your product or something else entirely to get the colors he has in his wood that would justify the cost he is getting. I could see many of us being able to come up with some really cool pieces of wood at far better prices....



I do know him quite well and talk to him regularly! I can't comment on my customer's buying choices though without their permission!


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 15, 2015)

The best color separation when double dying happens by soaking the first color. No vacuum, just let it soak. Soak times will depend on species and how porous the wood is. Punky wood I only soak for 15-20 minutes. Then cure the blanks in the oven. After they cool down, run them in your vacuum chamber at full vac with your second color like normal. Pulling vac on the first color, even a lower vac, will usually get too much of that color in the blank.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 15, 2015)

In defense of the guy selling these at those prices...he taked the highest offer. He does not set the price, the customer does. If someone comes up to you and says "Hey, I will give you $50 for that maple pen blank", are you going to turn them down? I could see if he had a website and had super high prices and the unknowing were buying from him because they thought he was the only one. That is not the case, though. He puts the pieces up and tells folks to PM him with their offer in a sealed bid type deal. Is he to blame that some folks offer him $$$ big bucks because they love his stuff?? Not sure what there is to expose other than customers who really like his work and know they can get top dollar from their products using his material.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 15, 2015)

that explains why his first color looses darkness the deeper you cut into the wood.

I'm not saying this is bad thing, i'm just noting what has already been said in reference to the loss of color on deeper cuts.


----------



## Kevin (Apr 15, 2015)

TurnTex said:


> ... Is he to blame that some folks offer him $$$ big bucks because they love his stuff??



As long as the PR department can hold its own. You should teach a class on that Curtis.


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 15, 2015)

he has a point. No one is forcing these prices.


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 16, 2015)

Well I wanted it to be noted that some may think the wood I bought is expensive and arguably so; especially after seeing what some of you all sell your cuts for and what others sell theirs for. It is true that I could've save money by looking elsewhere. The fact is I saw what I liked and bought it. Do I regret my decision? No I do not unless it isn't what was described to me after speaking with him or his assistant. If you all think about it; that goes for anything that we purchase if it's not something we've had experience with previously and know what to expect or can check out in person first. Some may think I'm crazy to say that. I'm just not the type of person that's not willing to take a chance every now and then. I'll also be the first to admit that way of thinking hasn't always turned out well in the end either. Hahaha!! I'm happy with what I bought and I appreciate all of the information and insight on the subject because I'll research the market more before the next time, but that doesn't mean that I won't choose to buy from the same supplier if that's what I like and what works for what I'm having done. My main goal in all of this is to have a mod built that is nice to look at as well as a good conversation piece. Thanks again for the input and maybe this discussion will help me find someone has the knowledge and is willing to build a mod for me!


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 16, 2015)

I'm still waiting to see what the price will be on this piece that I saw today that I like a lot.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Apr 18, 2015)

@Cole Mods , I haven't been on in awhile as I've been cutting up about a thousand lbs of black ash Burl and box elder Burl to stabilize and dye...I just wanted to say your wood is coming out very nice!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 18, 2015)

Thanks man! We are trying all sorts of stuff with the stabilization. It's mainly just a lot of fun. The frames just came out of prototype and will be heading into manufacturing in the next 2 weeks (as soon as a CNC machine opens up).

We just finished playing with this piece tonight.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 2


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 19, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Thanks man! We are trying all sorts of stuff with the stabilization. It's mainly just a lot of fun. The frames just came out of prototype and will be heading into manufacturing in the next 2 weeks (as soon as a CNC machine opens up).
> 
> We just finished playing with this piece tonight.View attachment 76855


That's it!!! That's the exact size I was looking for....nice work bud...extremely nice work!


----------



## Justin Cheatwood (Apr 19, 2015)

Here is another piece I bid on yesterday that I really like and hope to win!!!!


----------



## manbuckwal (Apr 19, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Thanks man! We are trying all sorts of stuff with the stabilization. It's mainly just a lot of fun. The frames just came out of prototype and will be heading into manufacturing in the next 2 weeks (as soon as a CNC machine opens up).
> 
> We just finished playing with this piece tonight.View attachment 76855



Cole, is that one of the pieces U bought from me ? How are u able to keep some areas "natural" color ?


----------



## barry richardson (Apr 19, 2015)

q


TurnTex said:


> In defense of the guy selling these at those prices...he taked the highest offer. He does not set the price, the customer does. If someone comes up to you and says "Hey, I will give you $50 for that maple pen blank", are you going to turn them down? I could see if he had a website and had super high prices and the unknowing were buying from him because they thought he was the only one. That is not the case, though. He puts the pieces up and tells folks to PM him with their offer in a sealed bid type deal. Is he to blame that some folks offer him $$$ big bucks because they love his stuff?? Not sure what there is to expose other than customers who really like his work and know they can get top dollar from their products using his material.


Good point, it appears he is getting these high prices from customers who know nothing about wood or stabilizing, or the market on stabilized blanks, only interested in the ultimate blank for a Vap, so they don't know any better, or don't care. I must admit, his blanks are stunning.. Looks like he has a sweet little niche at the moment, he better ride the wave as long as he can, cause like Kevin said, his market will collapse as soon as some healthy competition appears...

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 19, 2015)

manbuckwal said:


> Cole, is that one of the pieces U bought from me ? How are u able to keep some areas "natural" color ?


Yea that's one of your pieces.

It gets stabilized more than once, and one of the resins is clear. So the natural parts are just stabilized with clear resin.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## manbuckwal (Apr 19, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Yea that's one of your pieces.
> 
> It gets stabilized more than once, and one of the resins is clear. So the natural parts are just stabilized with clear resin.



So u stabilize first w clear resin then color?


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 19, 2015)

i'm still working all that out.

Right now, i stabilize the full blank with a single color.
Then i ended up cutting the blank down closer to the size i wanted for the end product. I saw that i didn't get full penetration, so i stabilized a second time with clear resin.
Then I cut the rest off and shaped it.

That's how that particular piece ended up like that.

We know our EXACT sizing now, so the pieces i need to get are smaller than the original pieces i was buying. So i'll get better penetration on the next round (thinner wood). but i'm pretty sure i will always double stabilize from this point forward. I live in SC. So the humidity is bad. I always end up with better wood after the 2nd round.


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 19, 2015)

Dry you wood completely as recommended, make sure you are pulling max vac for your elevation, keep the pump running until the bubbles stop, and allow the blanks at least 2x vacuum time for soaking and you can penetrate and completely stabilize any size piece you want with one go. I have done a 7.75"x7.75"x3.75" piece of hackberry and achieved 100% complete penetration based on the color I used in the resin.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 19, 2015)

TurnTex said:


> Dry you wood completely as recommended, make sure you are pulling max vac for your elevation, keep the pump running until the bubbles stop, and allow the blanks at least 2x vacuum time for soaking and you can penetrate and completely stabilize any size piece you want with one go. I have done a 7.75"x7.75"x3.75" piece of hackberry and achieved 100% complete penetration based on the color I used in the resin.


I get this weird phenominon with some pieces of wood.
The will bubble (big bubbles) forever. For like hours.
But if i release vacuum and then re apply vacuum, when it hits max vacuum again, no more bubbles.

very odd.

Also, i am purposely not allowing full penetration for pieces now. So i can double dye.


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 19, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> I get this weird phenominon with some pieces of wood.
> The will bubble (big bubbles) forever. For like hours.
> But if i release vacuum and then re apply vacuum, when it hits max vacuum again, no more bubbles.
> 
> very odd.



This would be normal and the reason I always recommend keeping the pump running the entire time. As soon as you release vacuum, the resin begins to go back into the wood. If you then pull vac again, you have to pull the remaining air back out through the resin that you just introduced and it make take a while before you start seeing the air coming again. It WILL come, though! And what do you consider "forever"? It is not uncommon for me to pull vacuum for 6-8 hours before the bubbles stop. Also, if you are not drying your wood to a verifiable 0% moisture content, you will continue to get bubbles for 20 hours or more as the water in the wood boils off. If your chamber is a metal pot with a clear lid, you can not see what is happening. You can only see that large bubbles are coming to the surface. These are most likely tiny bubbles that join with other tiny bubbles and come to the surface as large bubbles. This is the water boiling off.

If you want the best results I have found for good color separation, don't pull any vac on your first color. Just allow them to soak. You will have to play with the soak time for your wood. For puky spalted pecan, I only soak for 15 minutes. Harder wood will take longer.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 19, 2015)

reminds me, i need to order another few gallons from you on monday.

@TurnTex 

do you have a specific mixing ratio for using the pearlescent alumilite powder with cactus juice?
Or is that not something i should try to do?


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 19, 2015)

Perlex or any other mica powders will NOT work with Cactus Juice. These types of additives are not dyes or pigments. They are mica powders and rely on large particles (relative of course) to catch light and make the shimmer you see. These particles are too big to penetrate the wood reliably. The wood will just filter them out.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 19, 2015)

TurnTex said:


> Perlex or any other mica powders will NOT work with Cactus Juice. These types of additives are not dyes or pigments. They are mica powders and rely on large particles (relative of course) to catch light and make the shimmer you see. These particles are too big to penetrate the wood reliably. The wood will just filter them out.


Is the alumilite dye the only one that works or are there others that will?


----------



## TurnTex (Apr 19, 2015)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> Is the alumilite dye the only one that works or are there others that will?



There are certainly others, Greg. The Alumilite dyes are the best for this application since they are 100% homogenous liquid colorants made for mixing into plastic resins. They physically cross link with the stabilizing resin when it cures rather that just curing in suspension. They are not actually a dye but rather a colorant. The color is created at the molecular level. You have to be careful with other liquid dyes since most are actual dyes and have some kind of carrier as the liquid portion. To get enough dye in there to get good color, the carrier can have a high enough concentration it may cause problems with the polymerization of the resin. I know this can happen with dyes such as Transtint.

There are also powdered aniline dyes that work. I don't care for them for the most part because they don't typically fully dissolve and you are left with a sludge in the bottom of your container. I tested and evaluated the powdered dyes from a manufacturer that a certain competitor buys from and sell long before they ever came on the market. I actually sent some of my resin off to them to see which of their dyes would mix best. We found that none of them mixed completely so I decided against selling them.

If you do decide to use a powdered dye, I recommend adding it and shaking it up real well. If you can, mix it in and then pull a vacuum on it. this will help wet out the dye particles. Then allow it to set overnight. The next day, shake it again, then strain it through a coffee filter to remove any undissolved particles. You don't have to strain it but if you don't the outside of you blanks will be messy with the undissolved dye particles.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 28, 2015)

So this is the first prototype.
I have a 25 piece prototype run being done right now. We are working out the kinks with a closed group of people that get prototype mods and different inserts for testing and feedback.
After that, we make the changes that need to be made and then start selling.

I'm making inserts from Final Strut's hybrid pieces and they are insane. just beautiful.
I also just ordered a bunch of Raffir for some other insert options. 

I'm currently working on finding someone to do my aluminum anodizing.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Apr 28, 2015)

oh, also that picture is of the earliest prototype. There are chamfers for the screen cut out that will be added. The way the edges are rolled will change. The screws will be anodized to match the aluminum, etc...

We are still early in the process.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## yakiesan (Jul 16, 2015)

nice mod bro, let me know if you looking for a tester!! I will even buy it off you I will put it though good use and testing, I vape all day everyday.


----------



## Cole Mods (Jul 16, 2015)

This is the most recent version of the Mod.
Thought I would give a quick update.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 5


----------



## GeorgeS (Jul 31, 2015)

I don't Vap but brother I know a work of art when I see it and that is beautiful. It's evident you have worked very hard on this project!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Cole Mods (Jul 31, 2015)

Thanks!

We are finally starting to get them out at a steady rate.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 3 | Way Cool 1


----------



## manbuckwal (Aug 1, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Thanks!
> 
> We are finally starting to get them out at a steady rate.View attachment 84439View attachment 84440



Looks like you are getting your dyeing technique down as well .


----------



## Bouchie18 (Aug 23, 2015)

Cole Mods said:


> Thanks!
> 
> We are finally starting to get them out at a steady rate.View attachment 84439View attachment 84440


These are beautiful!!


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Sep 4, 2015)

@Cole Mods ! Long time no talk brother. I didn't know you were behind Kudzu!! This is JT ...I have the group CWG. I've come pretty far since starting posting in here but you my friend...have come a long way! I wish I got on the list in lxv :( Let me know if you ever need some wood. Here's one of my favorites...

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Sep 4, 2015)

Just a few others as well...

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1 | Great Post 1


----------



## CAWoodCollector07 (Sep 4, 2015)

Aurora North said:


> WOW... Well that surely puts into perspective how much these high end MODs must be selling for when fully completed.
> 
> Having bought from this guy, have you had any issues with his stabilized blanks shrinking or distorting in any way? I suppose if he is the only one able to provide a truly stable blank then he pretty much has you by the balls. But man oh man that is a lot for a blank.
> 
> ...


I had all the same questions...the blocks looked so nice and have been on the outside. This is my PERSONAL experience...my partner and I stabilize and dye blocks and have been for quite some time (see last page for latest batch of quad dyes) and I wanted to see if the colors "bled" on the inside of some of his raffles (which go for $200-$400 a block). Well, not only did it bleed, but when I received it, there was no "pop" like the pictures had regardless of wetting down. Stabilization was done well, color separation, NO. I see a lot of people raffling/auctioning blocks for very high prices...I personally don't agree with it so don't do it myself. To each is own.


----------



## Paulsenw (Jul 21, 2016)

Cole Mods said:


> So this is the first prototype.
> I have a 25 piece prototype run being done right now. We are working out the kinks with a closed group of people that get prototype mods and different inserts for testing and feedback.
> After that, we make the changes that need to be made and then start selling.
> 
> ...


how do I participate in said "closed group of people that get prototype mods and different inserts for testing" lol count me in! Your mod is beautiful btw


----------



## Electronic Crafter (Nov 10, 2016)

Nor would I, having never sucked a robot d**k. I never smoked an ecig, but got a nicotine buzz after 15 minutes in a room full of people vaping, and I agree with the canon description.


----------



## Palaswood (Nov 10, 2016)

Wow! I'm amazed at all the knowledge on this thread. If I wanted to get started casting and dying in a vacuum chamber, where do I begin so that I can learn what I need to in order to build a setup? I'm looking for resources, websites, tutorials, links, threads etc.

Thanks!


----------

