# Have a finishing question.



## GaSawmiller (Apr 22, 2013)

So I read a while back in Wood Magazine about finishing furniture with a mix of BLO, mineral spirits, and poly but I cant remember how many parts of each the mix is and I cant find the article. I thought it may be equal parts but I wanted to be sure. Does anyone know?


----------



## woodtickgreg (Apr 22, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> So I read a while back in Wood Magazine about finishing furniture with a mix of BLO, mineral spirits, and poly but I cant remember how many parts of each the mix is and I cant find the article. I thought it may be equal parts but I wanted to be sure. Does anyone know?


Equal parts is correct, but I add the spirits last and a little at a time till I get the consistency I want for wiping. I also like to start the finishing process with one coat of pure oil as it really soaks in and pops the grain or figure.


----------



## Final Strut (Apr 22, 2013)

if you mix equal parts you basically end up with a friction polish. 

I use a similar mix on some of my pens. I mix equal parts of DNA, shellac, and BLO and apply with the lathe running around 1500 rpms so it heats up and basically burns in.


----------



## Mike Jones (Apr 23, 2013)

Think of it this way: the Polyurethane *IS* the finish. Linseed Oil and thinner are additives. The Poly straight from the can might be a perfectly fine finish, but might be too thick (viscous)to work well, so you add some thinner (mineral spirits or turpentine). Then, the poly goes on better, but doesn't flatten out well, leaving brush stroke or mop marks, so you add oil to help it flow out. If weather conditions cause the finish to set up faster than you can work, a little more oil will help slow it down.

The end use of your project should dictate your choice of finish. You are doing furniture? Outdoor furniture.? For out doors, I would use spar varnish (Marine with UV inhibitors) in place of the Poly, and tung in place of the linseed. A kitchen stool might be finished much differently than a milking stool.

The kind of wood you are finishing can influence your choices as can weather and time of day.

Home brew finishes provide the ultimate in control of outcomes. It also provides full confidence in the freshness of the product that you are using. and can be much cheaper as well.
(yes, finishes have a shelf life...and retailers would prefer that you take the oldest off their shelf first.) And, like catching a fish on a fly that you have tied, mixing your own can give a little bit of extra satisfaction.

Learning the strong points and the weak points of the major finish types will help in choosing the right base to begin. Shellac may produces the look, feel and durability that you want for a dining room table....and be a poor choice for a bar top (shellac does not resist alcohol) Lacquer could be the easiest/fastest way to get a deep built-up look, but it would leave rings from the iced tea tumbler ....and a difficult repair.

Most finishing projects beg for a sealer to be applied ahead of any other coating that you want to put on. Sealers will "get you there" faster, easier and cheaper than trying to go straight to bare wood with a film building type finish. There are times, however, when deep saturation of a slow polymerizing oil is called for. Treen ware and walnut oil for example.

Turpentine and tung oil are more expensive than their counterparts (miniral spirits and linseed oil) but both have properties worth discovering...and using when the project calls for it.


----------



## woodtickgreg (Apr 23, 2013)

For what it's worth, my favorite finish is my home blend of equal parts of, poly or spar poly, tung oil, blo, and a little mineral spirits to thin for wiping. It's very slow drying and must be kept warm as the heat helps it to cure. and the first coat is pure tung oil. This is an indoor finish for furniture and such, I even use it on turnings.


----------



## GaSawmiller (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. Im working on a coffee table that will be curly ambrosia maple if that helps. Finishing really is my weak point and all comments are welcome!


----------



## woodtickgreg (Apr 23, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> Thanks for the replies. Im working on a coffee table that will be curly ambrosia maple if that helps. Finishing really is my weak point and all comments are welcome!


An oil finish like we have been discussing here will really make the figure and color pop. imo


----------



## Mike Jones (Apr 23, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> Thanks for the replies. Im working on a coffee table that will be curly ambrosia maple if that helps. Finishing really is my weak point and all comments are welcome!


 Can you spray? Is the coffee table ready for finish?


----------



## GaSawmiller (Apr 23, 2013)

Mike Jones said:


> GaSawmiller said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the replies. Im working on a coffee table that will be curly ambrosia maple if that helps. Finishing really is my weak point and all comments are welcome!
> ...


 The table is not ready to finish yet as I have too much on my plate and going is slow. Yes I do have the ability to spray.


----------



## Mike Jones (Apr 29, 2013)

Please 'scuse the delay....

I would want 3 things from my finish on a table top.

(1) I want to preserve the whiteness...don't want to darken it.

(2) I'd want a much better looking job than "store bought" furniture 


I'd use Deft sanding sealer. The wood sanded to 400 grit, blown off
and wiped clean, I'd spray a light coat...wait about ten minutes, then 
another light coat, ten minutes, and another light coat. Wait 3 hours,
sand to at least 400, and repeat above. Do this again after another 3 
hours.

(3) I'd want a hard surface resistant to alcohol, water, and scratches.

Top over the cured sanding sealer with 3 to 5 coats of poly.

Hope this helps...


----------



## jimmyjames (Apr 29, 2013)

Mike Jones has it right, I used the deft sanding sealer that he told me to use and it is some good stuff! Especially on ambrosia maple :) I've used it on some other things as well, I will be using it again soon when the ambrosia coffee table is ready for finish


----------

