# The hunger for bigger things!



## Strider (Oct 13, 2014)

I know, I know, I'm a maniac :D

Unnamed guidebar, slim and long. Quite frankly, it's much faster than the little buggers. I just ground off the chain grooves on the side and shaped the tip and handle.
I left the hole at the end of the handle, looks good.






See, my method of marking the center with the calipers.






Tried the angle grinder again...I do love filing, but I'm not that much of an optimist lol :D






Getting there, one pass at a time.






Ugly. Note the damage where the C-clamp is holding. That's why I prefer my hands.

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 2


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## Strider (Oct 13, 2014)

Drilling the tang. A very dangerous part as the whole thing spins once the drill is about to pierce to the other side. Predicting that action, I've turned the spine towards me. And yes, it did hit me lol :D That's why I took this big chunk of steel to prevent the momentum and the machete it is exerted on from taking my arm of.


 
Oh, the colors! By the size of the shavings you can tell how fast the drill went, I mean, how hard I pressed. Small shavings, clean and neat- barely pressing down.


 
The comparison between the different force exerted on the drill, resulting in the following shaving's shape.


 
Taa daaa! Couple of mistakes, or possible ones, though- the handle might be too narrow at the beginning of the handle, where my index finger is. The blade isn't symmetrical yet, and it is a bit recurved, as you can see. The balance point isn't placed where it should be, at the tip. But, then again, this is a machete, not a chopper! I've taken some more meat off the edge to move the balance point closer to the tip.


 
But, I do like the symmetry at the ricasso ;) 


 
One big hole, 3x5 mm and 4x4mm...Just to move the BP a bit further.


 
Ricasso ridgeline detail.


 
The tip. I would like to round it off a bit more. What do you think?


 
As this is still a project in progress, I'm curious- should I leave the tool marks on the blade, or should I remove them and leave some middle-grit sandpaper finish? I would like to get as much coins for this piece as I can, and the overall finish effects the price.

Reactions: Way Cool 7


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## Kevin (Oct 13, 2014)

Strider said:


> As this is still a project in progress, I'm curious- should I leave the tool marks on the blade, or should I remove them and leave some middle-grit sandpaper finish? I would like to get as much coins for this piece as I can, and the overall finish effects the price.



Is there a way you can 'blue' it with heat without hurting the rockwell? I saw a machette once with bluish blade and it looked really cool. I like the shpae you gave it and really like the pin pattern too. Great job thus far.


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## ironman123 (Oct 13, 2014)

That is neat so far.


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## Strider (Oct 15, 2014)

Well Mr. Kevin, you can! That is, not hurting the edge Rockwells that count and are doing the job in the end. Here in aid comes a simple thing called differential tempering. I can blue the spine and the cheeks of the blade, but I should not touch the edge, as it will get to soft to be effectivly usable (yes, you can cut with the tin can lid, but it don't make it effective lol ). That should take half an hour of work over a gas stove or by placing the spine on a red hot piece of steel. I do it anyway, just to give the machete some toughness. I would like to gun blue it, but hell no, I don't own tjhe tools nor the chemicals for that.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## manbuckwal (Oct 15, 2014)

Nice project, thanks for sharing the process !


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## Strider (Oct 21, 2014)

No problem Tom, I'm glad to be of some help!


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## Aurora North (Nov 16, 2014)

whhheeerrreee are the updateesss?!


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## Strider (Nov 17, 2014)

On hold, currently- I've got 3 knives to finish...But, I might visit "her" in the workshop today ;D I'm glad you like it, Yusuke!


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## Strider (Nov 17, 2014)

While doing HT for a friend, I've spent some time trying to figure out the belt sander I have in the workshop, it's all worn out and I've never used it before...so I tried to remove some file marks...Prooved very well, but I guess I'll stick to my files- I love my fingers to much to use high power electric tools and I don't like the amount it takes down with a single second. I have to pay waaay more attention in order not to ruin hours of work. The belt is really worn out #100 grit paper. Also, I've received 25 cm long N690Co stock bars and there'll be a lot of work to do!
Deep bastard. Pay attention to the almost-sharp-as-hell-edge.



I made just a few passes for a test. More objective opinion on the mattter will be stated out tomorrow.


 
As always-more to come!

Reactions: Like 2


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## HomeBody (Nov 18, 2014)

Strider said:


> Drilling the tang. A very dangerous part as the whole thing spins once the drill is about to pierce to the other side. Predicting that action, I've turned the spine towards me. And yes, it did hit me lol :D That's why I took this big chunk of steel to prevent the momentum and the machete it is exerted on from taking my arm of.



I'm a retired machinist and the fix for this problem is very easy. You need to dub your drill bit before you drill the hole. Dubbing is grinding the lead at 90°. It is hard to describe without pics. You grind back the thin sharp edge so that it is a more of a square edge. You are reducing the angle of the edge so it won't grab when it breaks through. You need to go to you tube or google "bit dubbing" and see if you can find some good pics. If nothing else, I could dub a bit and mail it to you. Gary

Reactions: Informative 2


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## Strider (Nov 18, 2014)

Oh, I never thought of that, even though I studied mechanical engineering. I'm using a drill without rpm regulator, so I'm stuck basically with the same drilling speed. I do not own drill sharpeners and I know angles are very important so I won't do free hand drilling. That's why I use these Bosch TiN drills- to compensate my lack of skill with quality :D So, what You're saying, sir, is that by dubbing- reducing the angle of the blade, I'm avoiding the "kick" the drilled part will make just when the bit will exit the metal?


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## Strider (Nov 18, 2014)

Now I have some reading to do!
http://www.newmantools.com/machines/drillpoint.html


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## Strider (Nov 18, 2014)

I apologize, the need to work, to tryout new techniques, to learn something new overcame me...So I rushed to the workshop after college, after a long and rainy, miserable day, and tested some new techniques I will post later in the classroom subforum.
Sadly, I had to sacrifice the flat part of the cheek, just below the spine- the brute the forge finish.



Otherside. Aaand, accidently, I've passed over ricasso with my file and took some meat of, I hate when that happens. Don't rush it, gentlemen, never rush it! 3:(



Whole lenght view...more work has to be done on the edge, it gets a bit recurve below the center of the edge, when facing it sideways. Take a look at the spine- the flat area is missing, making it almost full flat!



As always- more to come! ;D

Reactions: Like 2


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## Strider (Nov 24, 2014)

The work went on. Sanding, sanding and more sanding...the grooves went deep.
But, I get hungry and have to eat! :D






Before hardening- 15 HRC



Wet and dry sandpaper with WD40...



Then the rough and fine side of the stone...



I end up with something like this, more or less...



But there is more work, as you can see below.



I grew impatient so I went and hardened it...sucesfully or no, I have yet to find out.
Heating her in the furnace.



And letting her smolder in the ashes...Hardness test tomorrow.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Molokai (Nov 25, 2014)

@Strider . I know you love hand grinding but you shoud definitely come over to my house and start grinding on grinder. Once you try you will buy it next day.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Strider (Nov 25, 2014)

I am going to! That is what I am afraid of, I would get very used to it lol!


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## Strider (Nov 26, 2014)

HT done. She took a small curve to the right. Must be due to stresses and different oil temperature...I was lazy to do a normalization cycle and to warm the whole depth of the quench tank :D
But it is done, and done well. After oil quenching...54-56 HRC.



After an hour, hour and a quater at 220 C or more (home oven) I've done another test just below the first ones...the hardness ranges at 54 to 55 HRC. You see, there are no rules with steel. It should be a lot softer, judging by all the info provided and my experience, but some types of steel take more heath before they start loosing hardness. Nevertheless, this machete, while still having the same hardness as before tempering, is more tough...a loot tougher in fact. Note: these photos are not the same, but they do look like it. See the color on the machete in the lower one.



A nice bronze-purple shade to it, isn't it? :D It is a she, afterall.


 
I hope I'm not boring!


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