# Question: Pal RH 36 Made in USA Knife



## tocws2002

I have some questions about the above mentioned knife. A little history first, growing up my dad had a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw in his garage and in the cabinet were 2 knives, one being the Pal RH 36 with a sheath (will post pics tomorrow). These knives lived in that cabinet for as long as I can remember and ever since I got the saw from my dad. I am not sure where my dad got them, but they were never used for anything that I can remember. I was cleaning out the cabinet of the saw and rediscovered them and thought I would get some advice here on what to do.

Neither is in great condition, so I would like to see about rehabbing the Pal and the sheath so I am looking for advice on how to approach it. It is my understanding that the handle is leather rings compressed together, is there a process to rejuvenate the leather?

Should I replace the leather handle with wood?

How should I go about cleaning up the blade and sharpening it?

I believe these knives are fairly common and aren't extremely valuable, is this correct? Should I leave it as is or proceed with rehabbing it?

Lastly, the leather sheath is very "dry", what should I do with this?

Again, I will get pics posted to show the condition, but any advice or suggestions is appreciated.

Thanks,

- jason


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## Schroedc

For the sheath, you can try mink oil or even baseball glove oil, apply liberally, let it soak in, repeat until it softens up.


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## Molokai

Definitely need photos to tell more. 
For leather handle, you can replace leather with wood.... or stack new leather. You will need a jig to stack and glue leather pieces. All this goes if that is hidden tang knife. 
Photos ?


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## tocws2002

Here are some pictures, and upon further inspection the leather on the knife handle and the sheath aren't quite as bad as I thought. May just need a good cleaning. As for the blade, what should/could I do to it?

Thoughts and comments for sheath and blade are appreciated. 

Thanks!

-jason


First picture is both knives, the Pal is in the sheath, the other is a bayonet style.

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100602.jpg 

Both knives...

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100809.jpg 

Pal on edge with sheath

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100722.jpg 


Sheath closeup...

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100704.jpg


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## tocws2002

A few more pictures...

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100633.jpg 

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100639.jpg 

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Hand%20Tools/20140706_100621.jpg

Reactions: Like 1


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## robert flynt

You can soak the sheath in neatsfoot oil on any of the leather conditioning oils. If your not worried about the knife loosing value you can sand the pommel starting with 400 grit sand paper cut in 1" wide strips using a polishing motion, do the same with the leather. If the leather is not to dry you can coat it with about three coats of ca. sanding lightly between coats. This will take care of an loose rings as well as protect the leather. The blade can cleaned any number of ways, from the flats of the blade with sand paper using something nice and flat to back it. The fuller can be cleaned with steel wool or sand paper and a wooden dowel. the ground part of the blade can be cleaned with sand paper backed with a piece of leather so if you make a mistake you cut the leather not your thumbed. Guard can be cleaned with sand paper backed by something nice and flat.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## tocws2002

Robert, thanks for the advice, I will give it a go and see what happens.

You mentioned "If your not worried about the knife loosing value..." is the knife worth much in its current state?

Thanks again, 

- jason


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## robert flynt

I don't know the value of the knife, not being a collector, but it wouldn't hurt to check if it has any value. A lot of collectable knives have been devalued by taking the original patena off the blade though.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Fatstrat

Don't know if you are still interested. Saw you post online and joined forum to reply. Although the PAL-36 is a knife commonly carried by soldiers in WW-2. It was also a commercially sold hunting knife before, during and after the war. So not all are war relics. In fact although many were indeed used by soldiers, I have found no evidence that they were ever U.S. contract/G.I. issue. Maybe the were, maybe not. 
But they are a pretty good knife and one of my favorites for knife projects. I only buy examples in poor condition. No use tearing apart a good knife. And then I re-handle them. Often changing the guard and/or blade profile as dictated by as acquired condition. They are made of 1095 steel, which is a good basic knife steel. IMO there is no deterrent to value in cleaning up, or re-handling a poor condition knife. And I can help you if you are still interested in restoring yours. Some of my work. http://i162.Rule #2/albums/t249/Fatstrat59/IMAG0429_zps8b8fa019.jpg

Reactions: Like 1


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## Fatstrat

http://i162.Rule #2/albums/t249/Fatstrat59/IMAG0435_zps1d4f2fec.jpg

Reactions: Like 4


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## tocws2002

@Fatstrat 
Thanks for the post and info. Yes, I am still interested in restoring mine and would appreciate it if you post more info, pics, and your process.

Thanks again, I look forward to your posts.

-jason


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## Fatstrat

The knife comes apart very simply. Using a nail set to break it loose and start it out, and a small punch after that. Remove the pin in the pommel and all handle parts come off the tang to the rear. The tang on these knives is the same size as the one on the USMC (Camillus & Ka-Bar) knives. You can obtain the leather disks and colored spacers on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/maximuswra/..._DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
Generally you will find that these knives are bent at the blade/tang junction. If you look down yours longwise, you'll likely see it. IMO it is probably from being layed on while person wearing it was lying down. Anyways I first straighten it on a flat anvil with a hammer. Then clean blade of rust with wire brush on bench grinder. Then polish w/Crocus cloth.
Then simply reassemble using new leather. This is where it gets tricky. The leather must be VERY tightly compressed to form the hard as wood handle. And the guard must remain in place against the rear of blade while compression is being done. Put enough leather disks on the tang that the pommel pin hole will not line up corresponding hole in tang w/o assembly being compressed. Being VERY careful not to bend the guard by too much pressure. When you find the right mix of leather & pressure that the handle is compressed tightly and the pin holes line up, re-insert the pin. The handle will now very oversized. Sand it down to desired shape and size on a 1" belt sander. Working VERY slowly and thoughtfully. You can take more off, but you can't put more on. This is a very basic description. I can add more detail if sounds like something you might like to try.


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## tocws2002

@Fatstrat 
That's some good information there and I am really wanting to refurbish this knife. It was my dad's for many, many years and it's time I brought it back to life. If you have any additional details to add please do, you've got my interest sparked again with this knife.

Thanks,

-jason


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## Fatstrat

This is a thread I posted on another forum some time back. Perhaps it will help. It's not a definite only way to do it. Just what I have worked out with my resources. It's a USMC knife, but the concept is the same.
http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/threads/usmc-ka-bar-knife-project-pictorial.123141/


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## Fatstrat

Are you going to try it? If not, I am willing to refurb it for you at cost.


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