# Start of a new chainsaw mill



## DavidDobbs (Nov 16, 2016)

I thought I would build another chainsaw mill.
50" Double End Cannon milling bar
I am going to build a carriage and track.
It should cut some where around 41"
slabs.




That is my ms650 had to try it out and it was handy.
Dave

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Way Cool 3


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 16, 2016)

Chainsaws? Milling? I'm watching

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Nature Man (Nov 16, 2016)

Subscribed! Chuck


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## CWS (Nov 16, 2016)

I just got a 30" chainsaw mill. I plan on using it to cut bowl blanks from shorter logs. Longer logs will still go to the sawmill. That is one mean looking bar. If I was 40years younger and had my health I may be able to drag that saw.


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## Don Ratcliff (Nov 16, 2016)




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## DavidDobbs (Nov 16, 2016)

It will be a lot like this one I built couple years ago.
I am going to change a few things.
Mainly the threaded rod. Going to use 1" again but changing to acme thread.

Reactions: Way Cool 4


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 17, 2016)

+1 on the acme thread. It might cost a little more but is definitely worth it. more durable, smoother opperation, and quicker usually.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## justallan (Nov 18, 2016)

I'll be watching this one.


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## justallan (Dec 8, 2016)

I'm still looking at building a slabbing mill and have finally found some affordable bars, so it could actually happen.
What's the specs on your bar, if you don't mind me asking? The one I'm looking at is 50" .404 with .063 kerf. What are your thoughts? Another question, do you think a 12 HP riding mower engine has the power that I'll need?
Thanks in advance.


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## rocky1 (Dec 9, 2016)

justallan said:


> I'm still looking at building a slabbing mill and have finally found some affordable bars, so it could actually happen.
> What's the specs on your bar, if you don't mind me asking? The one I'm looking at is 50" .404 with .063 kerf. What are your thoughts? *Another question, do you think a 12 HP riding mower engine has the power that I'll need?*
> Thanks in advance.




http://www.g-team.us/ 
http://www.g-team.us/briggs_28cid.htm


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

rocky1 said:


> http://www.g-team.us/
> http://www.g-team.us/briggs_28cid.htm


The only problem I see with those engines is they will go like crazy.....but only for a little while. Milling requires a string high torque engine that will be under a constant load for long periods of time. Durability is most important. next is gearing to get the chain speed up.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## justallan (Dec 9, 2016)

rocky1 said:


> http://www.g-team.us/
> http://www.g-team.us/briggs_28cid.htm



Dang Rocky! I just want to cut a couple table slabs, but that would be fun.
I'm still trying to justify the bar and chain, other than that I'll have about $100 tied up into the whole mess.


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## rocky1 (Dec 9, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> The only problem I see with those engines is they will go like crazy.....but only for a little while. Milling requires a string high torque engine that will be under a constant load for long periods of time. Durability is most important. next is gearing to get the chain speed up.



They're actually pretty durable if built right Greg. Mower motor will typically race all season without issues, without refreshing. Governor is taken off and tossed, carb modifications made, not uncommon to polish ports, bore them, stroke them, cam is built up and reground to a whole different profile! Gives you a great deal more low end torque, whole lot more top end! Then you install a billet aluminum flywheel, because a.) The lighter weight allows you to bring RPMs much faster, and b.) lawn mower flywheels aren't designed to turn the RPMs the guys are turning them and they had enough of them explode that they aren't allowed in racing anymore.

Realistically one could probably use the tranny out of a lawn mower in the build as well for gearing your chain speed. You'd want to use a Peerless Transmission, not the junk built into the MTDs, beyond that gearing would be simple as tooth count on sprockets. Biggest problem there would be the mower transmission is set up to put power to the ground, so while power can be either vertical or horizontal, and input to the Transmission can be vertical or horizontal, your final drive always winds up horizontal. But, there is right angle drives to make such things possible.

Might be a little tough on gas though!!




justallan said:


> Dang Rocky! I just want to cut a couple table slabs, but that would be fun.
> I'm still trying to justify the bar and chain, other than that I'll have about $100 tied up into the whole mess.



Don gets calls all the time for odd requests on mower engines. Occasionally he finds one interesting and builds a cam special for it. Guy is a mechanical genius, thinks on levels that are simply scary. But... I have more than once seen him weld up the lobes on a cam and stand there at a plain old bench grinder, and grind a racing cam by hand, and not only make it work, but make it BADASSSS! 

Flywheel will cost you 5 - 6 times that on a 28 CID racing engine! (_The 28 CID Briggs has at one time or another been rated at everything from 8 - 16 hp. Slightly different cam grind on the 8 hp, otherwise most of the change in rated horsepower is a result of carburation._)


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## JR Custom Calls (Dec 9, 2016)

I've thought about building one several times. I just haven't had any time lately. I have access to a 22hp diesel, that would make a serious slabbing setup.


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## justallan (Dec 9, 2016)

My biggest reasoning is not having to bring support equipment. I'm thinking about making 2 rails, 2 ends and some gussets that all pin together that would sit around the log. I'd drive in some anchors, level it, set the head/carriage on and start sawing slabs.
I have bigger motors, but one of the reasons for using the small one is the weight factor. I would have to get the carriage from the truck to the rails.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

Rocky, we are going to agree that we disagree on this one. remove the governor from any small engine and it will not last. Race a whole season? how many hours on an engine? One season on an engine and then have to rebuild it? Not me, i want years out of my engine. I'm a pretty fair small engine mechanic myself and I have built my share of motors too. I earned my living for many years as a small engine mechanic. But ligher flywheels, radical cam grinds, and removing governors are great for racing but not for everyday all day use. they simply will not last as long, and then there's the expense. Now those types of motors are cool, and great for racing, but they are not practical for this application. In these aplications you want the heavy flywheel for torque and inertia, especially if you are driving hydraulics. 
I'm not saying that it won't work, I'm just looking at it from a practical and cost perspective. for these applications keep it stock, maybe upgrade to a Donaldson style air filter, run good oil and change it often. if you don't have enough power, you simply need a bigger engine.
J.M.O.
Greg

Reactions: Like 1


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## DavidDobbs (Dec 9, 2016)

Allen
My bar is .375 .063 

Greg
That is half the fun of building them. Is blowing them up.

Dave

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## JohnF (Dec 9, 2016)

have to agree with Greg, if those high lobe cams and over jetted carbs are so great why didn't they come stock from the factory? Anybody can modify an engine, but do they put a warranty behind it?

Reactions: Agree 2


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

Honda's are my favorite, they last forever, and all the other manufacturers try and copy their design. But they will never be a honda.


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## JR Custom Calls (Dec 9, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Honda's are my favorite, they last forever, and all the other manufacturers try and copy their design. But they will never be a honda.


What about Yamaha? They make a heck of an invertor generator. But never see their engines hardly except in their four wheelers and such. Kawasaki is another good one. Kohler seems to have really lost their touch as of late.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 10, 2016)

JR Custom Calls said:


> What about Yamaha? They make a heck of an invertor generator. But never see their engines hardly except in their four wheelers and such. Kawasaki is another good one. Kohler seems to have really lost their touch as of late.


Yamaha was never much of a player in the small engine world, but they do make a good generator, outboards, and of course motorcycles. Same with kawasaki, they are a huge company that builds a lot of things (kawasaki heavy industries). Kohler has had it's ups and downs, made great cast iron engines back in the day, made some good ohv engines that where actually Japanese manufactured and the quality was high. It seems like they are getting beat out by kawasaki the last few years. depending on the engine I wouldn't shy away from a kawasaki or a kohler. Some of the v twin Briggs vangaurds aren't a bad engine either. But when I can I will pay the extra money for a honda. But lets just say what about for repowering a band saw mill.......a kaw, kohler, honda, or even a briggs vangaurd would work fine.....kinda comes down to money sometimes and what kind of a deal you can find.


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## justallan (Dec 11, 2016)

@woodtickgreg your last sentence says everything in this application. I don't NEED this slabber, I just want to build one. Reality says it will probably get used for a dozen slabs, then put to the side for if someone needs something big sawn. The biggest reason I want it is for some big trees up on the mountain where I can't get support equipment for the band mill.
My plan would be to saw some 8' slabs and advertise them on CL and the local yard sale sites. Then if someone wanted longer slabs it would be simple to build longer tracks.

Reactions: Like 2


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 11, 2016)

justallan said:


> @woodtickgreg your last sentence says everything in this application. I don't NEED this slabber, I just want to build one. Reality says it will probably get used for a dozen slabs, then put to the side for if someone needs something big sawn. The biggest reason I want it is for some big trees up on the mountain where I can't get support equipment for the band mill.
> My plan would be to saw some 8' slabs and advertise them on CL and the local yard sale sites. Then if someone wanted longer slabs it would be simple to build longer tracks.


Cool, I get that, all the more reason to watch your pennies and go with a basic stock engine. No need to go whole hog if your only going to use it a few times, I agree with you. Kinda why I started chainsaw milling, it allowed me to get into milling for far less than the cost of a band saw mill. Then after I used it for awhile I realized the benefits of a piece of milling equipment that I could carry to the log, kind of like what you are looking to do. I have often thought of building a carriage for my mill like you guys are doing and it really does interest me to see what you guys do. But I like the portability of my mill. When I can no longer physically do the work of csm then I will look at a bandmill. I hope that you didn't get the impression that I am against building a slabbing mill, that is not what I meant. I was just saying to stick with a stock off the shelf motor for durability reasons. And for a slabbing rig a lawn tractor engine would be ideal imo. A big v twin would be cool! LOL.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 11, 2016)

Have you thought about going hydraulic? Very small, super lightweight and incredibly powerful.
There are plans here on how to make your own hydraulic saw: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plans-to-ma...845684?hash=item1a215c4874:g:WiMAAOSwLzdWQ-xq

I have two Stanley hydraulic saws that I have run on mills. Absolutely incredible. Beat any other mill I ever worked with.

You do need a pump, but if you have a tractor handy you can tap into that.

I have a large tank and pump system that I use. Long hoses and the pump is on wheels.

Much quieter, more torque, instant start - no cranking, and very fast.

Just throwing another idea in there.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## justallan (Dec 12, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Cool, I get that, all the more reason to watch your pennies and go with a basic stock engine. No need to go whole hog if your only going to use it a few times, I agree with you. Kinda why I started chainsaw milling, it allowed me to get into milling for far less than the cost of a band saw mill. Then after I used it for awhile I realized the benefits of a piece of milling equipment that I could carry to the log, kind of like what you are looking to do. I have often thought of building a carriage for my mill like you guys are doing and it really does interest me to see what you guys do. But I like the portability of my mill. When I can no longer physically do the work of csm then I will look at a bandmill. I hope that you didn't get the impression that I am against building a slabbing mill, that is not what I meant. I was just saying to stick with a stock off the shelf motor for durability reasons. And for a slabbing rig a lawn tractor engine would be ideal imo. A big v twin would be cool! LOL.



We're thinking just alike on this.
I'm thinking simple is better on this. If I do this it will be just as cheap as I can make it.


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## brown down (Dec 12, 2016)

My slabber is down at the moment but I run a 12 hp briggs motor and it has plenty of torque. I have to switch from sprockets to pulleys but I am running a 33 in bar on mine and it works perfectly for slabbing and can run any size up to 40 inside the carriage and prob endless on the opposite side outside the carriage if that makes sense! I haven't milled anything that way but have been pondering that for awhile.. you aren't going to cut boards with it but that was never my intention and it is a fraction of the cost. I have drawings of mine on autocad if anyone is interested it will give you a general idea of the construction. I still have to tweak a few things but for the most part its finished. I agree with greg you don't need anything over the top when it comes to the engine. Torque is key tho IMO verses speed. Off hand I can't think of the name of the company that makes the chains for their slabbing mills but they make a chain that has ½ the teeth to compensate for the speed. I ran mine for a while at the top end speed of the engine around 3500 RPM and it did a good job, it was slower but still cut good, I then geared it up a bit with sprockets to get it to around 6-8000 RPM and it cuts faster but has a ton more vibration! I think I may go back to having it run with full torque vs speed. My carriage without the engine weighs a lot tho but If I put wheels on the sides instead of my v groove rollers I could mill the log on the ground like I think you are talking about??

Reactions: Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 12, 2016)

@brown down very cool, that chain is probably a skip tooth, great chain for milling as it helps to clear the chips. It would be cool to see a video of that slabber running. Where you been brother, haven't seen you on here in awhile, or have I just missed your post?


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

Interesting. The slabber mill is great, but you ultimately bring the wood to it like a saw mill. Unless you have a way to lift it up over the log and set it down to straddle it.

In many ways, the portable mill technology is a great way to go because it is so transportable to the log, especially big logs.
A good Alaskan mill is not that heavy and you can go out into the woods if need, be with it.

Now if I was going to build a slabber mill on rollers, I think I would start by building a small pole barn (or large if possible).
I'd set up a beam with a chain hoist over the mill tracks. I think I'd either go with hydraulics or an electric motor to power the saw head which I would make geared.

That was one of the reasons the Homelite 1130G was such a successful miller, it ran much slower with a lot more torque.

Here's an article on building your own or buying a portable mill:

http://purelivingforlife.com/homemade-chainsaw-mill-vs-buying-one/

Here's a guy that does portable chainsaw milling on the cheap, and does a great job with it.






If you want to do a mill on the cheap, doesn't get much cheaper than that.


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## brown down (Dec 12, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> @brown down very cool, that chain is probably a skip tooth, great chain for milling as it helps to clear the chips. It would be cool to see a video of that slabber running. Where you been brother, haven't seen you on here in awhile, or have I just missed your post?



I have been in the process of moving with my fiancé and have been away hunting for 2 weeks. That and at the end of the day coming on this site was a bit hard after our loss of kevin! But I know he wouldn't want any of us to stop being a part of this great site. I do have a few videos somewhere of it running but can't find them on youtube for some reason lol. I will look on my puter today and find it. now that we are moved in here I am gonna work on getting my mill over here to start working on her over the winter. Her parents own a huge farm and here dad is also an operator with a ton of equipment. they have a pile of black locust he offered me and two very large black walnut trees that are just lying on the ground and will rot eventually. Her grandfather doesn't want it cut for firewood and neither do I but it needs to be milled so that doesn't happen. I am going to an auction tomorrow with him so I will discuss milling that up for him over the winter once I fix the mill which will be an easy fix I hope lol.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 12, 2016)

Moving sucks!  But good to see you back with us . Sounds like you have some goodies to mill up, be sure to take some pics of that. who doesn't like to see pics of walnut slabs ? lol .

Reactions: Agree 1


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