# Octagonal-barrel Fountain Pen



## duncsuss

I've owned a Montegrappa Symphony fountain pen for many years, and started thinking about how I'd build one similar soon after I got into pen making: the distinguishing feature is that the barrel and cap are octagonal.

I didn't get around to starting till last weekend, then yesterday I see over on IAP there's a slew of activity around the subject of "faceted" pens ... cue the Twilight Zone music ...






Anyway, here's mine: it's Dalmatian acrylic acetate, with a cap finial of black acrylic acetate. The section is black ebonite, with a Bock #5 nib -- though I might swap it out for one made from the same acetate as the cap finial (and might change the nib type while I'm tinkering with it.) As a first attempt, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out -- though there are a few things I have to improve (as will always be the case.)

Reactions: Like 6


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## DKMD

That's a great looking pen, Duncan!


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## NYWoodturner

Awesome work Duncan. I have a slew of questions but for now just amazing work!
Scott


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## duncsuss

DKMD said:


> That's a great looking pen, Duncan!





NYWoodturner said:


> Awesome work Duncan. I have a slew of questions but for now just amazing work!
> Scott


Thanks 

Pre-empting one (possibly more than one) of your questions ... 

PennState Industries used to sell a product called a "lathe mounted fluting guide" -- I can't find it on their site now, they must have discontinued it. One part holds a laminate router (trim router), the other clamps to the lathe ways and becomes a fence against which you can run the jig holding the router.

I used a hinge mortising bit in the router, so it completely flattened the edge it was facing (as opposed to cutting a groove or flute into it.) My lathe has 24 indexing positions built in, so I used every 3rd stop to get 8 flat sides.

Reactions: Like 3


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## ironman123

That is a beauty Dunc. Now you gotta do 16 sides.

Ray


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## duncsuss

ironman123 said:


> That is a beauty Dunc. Now you gotta do 16 sides.
> 
> Ray


LOL ... Thanks! I was planning on 12 sides first, just like the old British thrupenny bit (translation: "three penny bit").

Doing 16 sides with a 24 stop indexing head isn't quite so easy ... it can be done, but takes some fiddling


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## Johnturner

Duncan
Another beauty - Bring it to the next meeting.
John


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## duncsuss

Johnturner said:


> Duncan
> Another beauty - Bring it to the next meeting.
> John


Thanks John. I won't be at the meeting this week, but I expect it'll be coming with me in February


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## ripjack13

Neeto! That's a great looking pen.


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## duncsuss

ripjack13 said:


> Neeto! That's a great looking pen.


Thanks, Marc

Reactions: Like 1


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## Schroedc

WOW! I've always wanted to give kitless pens a whirl but no idea on where to start. Does someone sell the tap and die needed to cut the threads for the cap and nib holder?


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## duncsuss

Schroedc said:


> WOW! I've always wanted to give kitless pens a whirl but no idea on where to start. Does someone sell the tap and die needed to cut the threads for the cap and nib holder?


Thanks, Colin.

I bought the drills, taps & dies from a couple of different places. There are typical 3 threaded joints in a pen: (1) the cap to barrel, (2) the barrel to nib section, and (3) the one that holds the nib unit/housing inside the section.

For (1) I normally use 12mm x 0.75 threads (though for a larger pen I might go with 14mm x 0.75. I got the 14mm, 13.2mm, 12mm and 11.25mm drill bits, and the taps and dies, from VictorNet.com.

For (2) I normally use 9mm x 0.75 threads -- again, 9mm & 8.25mm drill bits and the taps & dies from VictorNet.com.

For (3) each nib manufacturer seems to use a different thread. So far I've bought taps for Bock #5, MeisterNib #5 and #6, and one "special order" that fits some Pelikan nib units as well as the old Esterbrook Renew-point and Osmiroid nibs. (I have an extra tap for MeisterNib #6 -- 7.4mm x 0.5 -- if you are interested in this particular form of insanity we could do a deal.)

I think I got my taps from ClassicNib.com and/or SilverPenParts.com

And, of course, each one of those nib-unit-specific taps requires a specific drill bit -- for this, I just bought one of those cheap fleaBay "129 drill bit" sets that includes all the letter and number bits as well as fractional bits. Some I've never used, others are getting a work-out -- and I'll replace those with higher quality bits when they are finished.

There are some good tutorials in the IAP library -- making the section is the hardest part (for me) as that requires very tight tolerances and drilling to precise depths (otherwise you have a tube, not a section ... DAMHIKT ... )

HTH

Reactions: Like 1


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## rdabpenman

Looks great from here.
Well done.

Les


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## duncsuss

rdabpenman said:


> Looks great from here.
> Well done.
> 
> Les



Thanks, Les


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## Bean_counter

Duncan what a great looking pen. I've always hated every kit less pen I've seen, but this one I love. I love the shape and the blank choice was great. Well done


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## duncsuss

Bean_counter said:


> Duncan what a great looking pen. I've always hated every kit less pen I've seen, but this one I love. I love the shape and the blank choice was great. Well done


Thanks, Michael ... I really like the fact that everything about the pen (except the nib, I suppose) is my choice ... the materials, the clip (if I want one), the length, thickness and shape. It's more challenging, but I enjoy it as a change from the drill-glue-turn-finish-assemble routine.


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN

Hello Duncan

I commented on this pen on another forum but have a question. I am seriously thinking I want to create some of my own pens only because I can not find things I want. My question is if i go down this path can I do everything on a wood lathe?? I have a couple Jet midi lathes. I know there is a learning curve as with everything we do but is it something that can realtively be picked up??? What would you say is the hardest parts to making a kitless pen or partial kitless pen??? Speaking of partly kitless pens have you ever used components from kits to make a custom pen such as threads from a cap or barrel or something else. And if so what kit would be the most sensible or easily adaptable if you happen to know?? Thanks.

John T.


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## duncsuss

Hi John,

Not sure I can answer all your questions, but I'll do my best -- please bear in mind, it's all IMHO, YMMV, etc.


JTTHECLOCKMAN said:


> can I do everything on a wood lathe??


I do it all on my Nova 1624 woodlathe.


> I have a couple Jet midi lathes.


If they are well aligned (i.e. if you put a dead center in the head and tail the points line up, no matter how far extended the tailstock quill is) you should be fine. I discovered my tailstock was off by about 1/32", which really makes a mess when drilling holes that must be threaded -- the error was greater than the thread depth!


> I know there is a learning curve as with everything we do but is it something that can realtively be picked up???


I picked it up with guidance from several folks on the IAP and Fountain Pen Network websites. Shawn Newton (goes under "watch_art") was very helpful as I was starting out, and there are a number of tutorials and threads with titles like "making a section". Obviously, it makes most sense to start out with cheap blanks that you can buy lots of, not some irreplaceable vintage celluloid.

Having seen the quality of your work, I have no doubt that you can learn the techniques quickly.


> What would you say is the hardest parts to making a kitless pen or partial kitless pen???


For me, it's making the section (the piece that holds the nib in one end and the ink supply in the other). I find it takes patience and caution, since the tolerances are so tight.


> Speaking of partly kitless pens have you ever used components from kits to make a custom pen such as threads from a cap or barrel or something else.


My first attempt used a complete nib section that I bought from Berea (a match for El Grande fountain pens) they are 10mm x 1mm diameter/pitch, which is an easy tap to find. Since then I've tried to make all threads myself.


> And if so what kit would be the most sensible or easily adaptable if you happen to know??.


I don't know ... if I were to go that route, I'd check out some of the smaller vendors (such as Smittys Pen Works, ExoticBlanks, ClassicNib, Indy-pen-dance, and Elliott Landes.) I've bought clips from several of them, and I know they sell other "parts of kits". The threaded connectors might require you to glue a short length of barrel tubing inside the barrels, just to get the right fit, leaving the other end free for you to do whatever you want.

HTH


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thanks for the reply. I may have to give these a try. I have quite a bit on my plate coming up. After Feb I should be retired so I will have more shop time. I will be making some segmented blanks that should be cool. Somewhere I will find some time to dabble in this more. I like the possibilities it lends itself to. Thanks again and again very nice pen.

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## duncsuss

@JTTHECLOCKMAN ... on a different forum, somebody just posted a link to one of the tutorials that I used to get started -- since I'll forget about it if I don't do this now, here it is ... TUTORIAL on making FP sections


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