# Harrison Simple Shear Cutting Finisher



## Kevin (Jul 25, 2014)

At one time I thought I was getting the knack of using this thing, but after having picked it back up after not using it for a couple years I'm getting catches like crazy. Anyone who has one knows how aggressive this thing is. I read and reread the instructions but I just can't master this thing. I had less trouble learning to use a skew.

Harrison has a video showing how to use his other traditional carbide cutters but I can't find one showing how to use this one as a cutter. Even using it as a scraper is challenging not to get a catch. Anyone use one? Want to make a video and show me how?


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## duncsuss (Jul 25, 2014)

I don't have that tool, but I do have the Rockler carbide tool with the "sharp edged cup" cutter (as opposed to the "flat scraping" kind) and I went through a traumatic learning cycle.

One good resource is John Lucas's video of the Hunter carbide tools (same cutter type) on YouTube -- search for his videos as John60Lucas to find them.

My approach involves deciding which of 4 types of cut I'm trying to make:

(1) hollowing the inside of a bowl "cutting style"
(2) finishing the inside walls of a bowl ("scraping style")
(3) working the outside of a bowl, or spindle, "cutting style"
(4) finishing the outside of a bowl, or spindle, "scraping style"

(1) and (3) only work if I can angle the tool handle so the very thin bevel (less than 1/8") can rub, then I use it just like a bowl gouge (nose turned to about 45 degrees)

(2) I do with the tool handle about level, cutter bit aiming at about 10 o'clock, contacting the workpiece ABOVE the centerline (because below the centerline the wood is moving in a way to create a deeper cut, i.e. a catch)

(4) I do with the tool handle about level, cutter bit leaning over to about 2 o'clock if I'm working from the chuck towards the tailstock (preferred direction for the outside of a bowl), this time with the cutting point a little below the centerline (again, so the wood is moving away from the cutting edge to reduce the chances of a catch.)

HTH


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## Kevin (Jul 25, 2014)

Thanks Duncan - the video made the light bulb come on for me. I seem to always need a video for something like using a turning tool. The instructions that came with the tool describe how to use it but I just can't turn that into usable info I need to see it. Thanks for the search term it worked.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## duncsuss (Jul 25, 2014)

You're welcome -- glad it provided the answer. IMO, John's videos are among the best out there, I go back time and again to refresh my memory on ways to work with a particular tool.

Now I'll watch this one again, just in case I have to use it over the weekend :cool2:


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## Schroedc (Jul 25, 2014)

I was given one of the rockler tools as a gift and I had the same problem Kevin was having, couldn't seem to translate the instructions into something I could understand, they appeared to be in English but made no sense. once I realized I had to turn it more on its side, light bulb moment!


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## duncsuss (Jul 25, 2014)

I got some blatant misdirection from one of the Rockler staff -- they told me to keep it flat on the toolrest, just like an Easy Wood Tool. That's how I know about John Lucas's video!


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## Schroedc (Jul 25, 2014)

duncsuss said:


> I got some blatant misdirection from one of the Rockler staff -- they told me to keep it flat on the toolrest, just like an Easy Wood Tool. That's how I know about John Lucas's video!



Yeah, they gave me the same advice, I ended up getting whacked with the tool and throwing the bowl quite a ways......


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## duncsuss (Jul 25, 2014)



Reactions: Like 1


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## ButchC (Jul 25, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Thanks Duncan - the video made the light bulb come on for me. I seem to always need a video for something like using a turning tool. The instructions that came with the tool describe how to use it but I just can't turn that into usable info I need to see it. Thanks for the search term it worked.



DING DING DING!!! I have one that I acquired with some other items in an auction. I tried to use it (incorrectly) and chewed up the cutter with numerous catches. I hung it up on the pegboard and haven't even looked at it in months. Now I think I will try using it again. Wish I'd have thought of lookin for a video first. 

Butch

Reactions: Like 1


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## ButchC (Jul 25, 2014)

And when I say I chewed up the cutterhead, I did a real number on it. I forgot I bought a new cutter for it but never put it on. I was afraid to chew up another. Mine is the Rockler version...

Reactions: Like 2


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## duncsuss (Jul 25, 2014)

Don't throw that away -- you might be able to use it to cut finger grip beads on pen barrels ...

Reactions: Funny 4


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## APBcustoms (Jul 26, 2014)

All I use is carbide tools because that's what I learned on. number one rule keep tool blade flat especially with the finisher also you want to hold it perfectly horizontal no need for lifting the tool it will not cut right. Another big thing is the hight of the tool rest for the outside of an object hold it in the center or slightly below center when coring hold it a bit above because you don't want to hit the bottom of the tool on the piece. Also no need to force it let the tool do the cutting carbides are supposed to be easy direct it with your thumb ontop of the rail. Lastly it's good to have a flat bottom on the tool because this helps to hold it flat.


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## duncsuss (Jul 26, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> All I use is carbide tools because that's what I learned on. number one rule keep tool blade flat especially with the finisher also you want to hold it perfectly horizontal no need for lifting the tool it will not cut right. Another big thing is the hight of the tool rest for the outside of an object hold it in the center or slightly below center when coring hold it a bit above because you don't want to hit the bottom of the tool on the piece. Also no need to force it let the tool do the cutting carbides are supposed to be easy direct it with your thumb ontop of the rail. Lastly it's good to have a flat bottom on the tool because this helps to hold it flat.



Austin -- I have to disagree with this as a blanket statement. There are 2 different types of carbide tool, what you're saying is correct for one type but not the other.

The Easy-Wood-Tools cutters are completely flat across the top, and work great when used the way you describe.

The Hunter tools and Harrison tools and Rockler tools have a carbide bit that is cup-shaped with a very sharp up-turned edge. In my experience, holding them flat is a catch waiting to happen. If you've found a way to use them like that I'd love to see how you do it.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## APBcustoms (Jul 26, 2014)

duncsuss said:


> I got some blatant misdirection from one of the Rockler staff -- they told me to keep it flat on the toolrest, just like an Easy Wood Tool. That's how I know about John Lucas's video!



I guess these tools play out a bit differently didn't realize the bar was so round I have a tool like this for sale I found that a slight angle and a pull cut worked better but I don't like the round bar it wants to twist on you to easily


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## ButchC (Jul 26, 2014)

duncsuss said:


> Don't throw that away -- you might be able to use it to cut finger grip beads on pen barrels ...



My new texturing tool.

Reactions: Funny 1


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