# Duck call laminating question



## fredito

Please forgive my complete newbiness on this topic ….I am thinking of trying to turn some duck calls. I don’t really have any stock that I could use to turn them, and the only wood larger then 4/4 I can get in my area is 8/4 red oak. I do however have some maple and cherry that is 4/4 and I think a piece of 1/4 walnut. Does anyone see any issues if I laminate some of this stuff together to turn calls? If laminating is fine, does it matter if the glue line would be down the barrel or would it work better stacking the wood down the barrel if that makes any sense…My biggest concern would be that I might actually make one that looks decent and end up putting an insert in it…I wouldn’t want it to fall apart in the field and I would rather hold off getting nice wood until I know what I am doing (that and my wood budget is spent until 2035) I would most likely use titebond II, unless someone can recommend something else. Also, what would you recommend for finishing other than CA? 
As always, I appreciate everyone’s help on this site


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## Tclem

If you send me your address I'll send you a few pieces I some cherry burl stabilized and whatever else i can find in game calls size blanks to get you going.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | +Karma 3


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## SENC

Fred, I think your best bet would be to stack them... and I'd suggest turning them round first and squaring the faces on your lathe. The most secure method would be to drills some pieces a larger diameter and tenon the others into them. Alternatively, take some of your 4/4 maple that is your intended length, drill it through with a 5/8" drill (ark-style bore size), and turn it down to a 7/8" dowel... then drill your other pieces with a 7/8" drill so that they slide onto the maple... stack and glue them, then turn the whole thing.


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## SENC

Or, take Tony's wood. Probably easier.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Tclem

SENC said:


> Fred, I think your best bet would be to stack them... and I'd suggest turning them round first and squaring the faces on your lathe. The most secure method would be to drills some pieces a larger diameter and tenon the others into them. Alternatively, take some of your 4/4 maple that is your intended length, drill it through with a 5/8" drill (ark-style bore size), and turn it down to a 7/8" dowel... then drill your other pieces with a 7/8" drill so that they slide onto the maple... stack and glue them, then turn the whole thing.


Make it complicated why don't you Henry. Ahhhhhh

Reactions: Funny 1


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## fredito

Tony-
You are awesome! If you turn pens, I can send you some pen blanks in return

Reactions: +Karma 1


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## SENC

Tony is awesome. I'm just complicated.

However, I'm nice. I don't torment my kids with cheese puffs the way Tony does.

Reactions: Funny 4


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## gman2431

I just glued up a bunch of game calls with 50 degree laminating strips. 

I've just started turning one into a duck call tonight and the only thing that worried me was boring a bad hole. I have some super heavy duty forstner bits so it worked fine but that would be my only worry. 

But this is all coming from a guy who has made about 3/4 of a duck call so far. Lol. I'm sure some of the guys who can do this in their sleep will weigh in also.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tclem

SENC said:


> Tony is awesome. I'm just complicated.
> 
> However, I'm nice. I don't torment my kids with cheese puffs the way Tony does.


I'm blocking you from fb lol

Reactions: Funny 3


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## Tclem

fredito said:


> Tony-
> You are awesome! If you turn pens, I can send you some pen blanks in return


I've got plenty pen blanks bud. Don't worry about it. It's my pleasure

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Way Cool 1 | +Karma 2


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## JR Custom Calls

I've tried making calls that way, and I've yet to have success drilling and turning with a joint that runs parallel with the bore. I can laminate perpendicular to the bore with no issues.


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## fredito

JR Custom Calls said:


> I've tried making calls that way, and I've yet to have success drilling and turning with a joint that runs parallel with the bore. I can laminate perpendicular to the bore with no issues.



When you put it that way, it makes sense (Im hoping at least)...If you look at it like turning a giant pen, if the end grain is between centers its easy to turn, versus if you are stacking 4/4 wood the face grain would be between centers making it a pain to turn potentially (for a newbie at least) correct?


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## fredito

SENC said:


> Fred, I think your best bet would be to stack them... and I'd suggest turning them round first and squaring the faces on your lathe. The most secure method would be to drills some pieces a larger diameter and tenon the others into them. Alternatively, take some of your 4/4 maple that is your intended length, drill it through with a 5/8" drill (ark-style bore size), and turn it down to a 7/8" dowel... then drill your other pieces with a 7/8" drill so that they slide onto the maple... stack and glue them, then turn the whole thing.



I googled 'ark-style bore' and got something on drilling for oil and another thing on Noahs Ark.....I might be in over my head on this one

Reactions: Funny 1


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## JR Custom Calls

fredito said:


> When you put it that way, it makes sense (Im hoping at least)...If you look at it like turning a giant pen, it the end grain is between centers its easy to turn, versus if you are stacking 4/4 wood the face grain would be between centers making it a pain to turn potentially, correct?



Pain... perhaps. It may just be how I'm doing it. If you look at my most recent post in the game calls forum, that's the method I'm talking about that I can pull off.


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## SENC

Sorry, Arkansas-style = contemporary calls. They have a 5/8" bore drilled through them to accept the insert.


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## fredito

JR Custom Calls said:


> Pain... perhaps. It may just be how I'm doing it. If you look at my most recent post in the game calls forum, that's the method I'm talking about that I can pull off.



I see what your saying now (sweet looking call by the way)...Do you have any problems with tear out? End grain has become my arch-enemy


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## fredito

@SENC haha, no worries


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## JR Custom Calls

fredito said:


> I see what your saying now (sweet looking call by the way)...Do you have any problems with tear out? End grain has become my arch-enemy



I don't... but I use carbide tools and have slowly upped my speed to 2400 rpm. I usually stick with stabilized wood or hedge though, so end grain tear out is way less of an issue anyways.


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## fredito

@JR Custom Calls You have alot of good points, I really appreciate it...its given me alot to think about...what do you use for glue and finishing if you don't mind me asking


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## JR Custom Calls

fredito said:


> @JR Custom Calls You have alot of good points, I really appreciate it...its given me alot to think about...what do you use for glue and finishing if you don't mind me asking



I use titebond (or however you spell it). I use several different finishes, CA for shiny stuff that won't get beat around, tru-oil for shiny (ish) that may get beat up a little, and either spray poly or buffed oil finish for a less shiny finish. Of course, there are more opinions to finishes than just about anything. Several guys dip calls (not sure exactly what they dip in), and while I've only seen one, it looked awesome.


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## fredito

With the tru-oil, to coat the inside, do you just do what you can to get it in there with a rag or is there a special trick? Also, having never used tru-oil, is it clear or does it have a tint to it?
Thanks again and I am sorry about all the questions, tried googling some of this stuff already


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## SENC

I suspect, but don't know, that you can do it like I do tung oil and dip it to coat the inside. They are penetrating oils, so you're really getting the finish into, rather than on top of, the wood. I will dip, hang for 30 minutes, wipe off the excess, then let dry for 24 hours. Depending on the wood and how much it soaks in, I will often do multiple coats before buffing. Others wetsand the first coat of oil in, then wipe subsequent coats. Here is a great link about finishing... http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml

Reactions: Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls

I don't coat the inside. On a pot call, I use a q-tip to put some finish inside the holes. 

I'm not sure if you could dip in tru-oil. I don't think its very much like tung/teak/velvet/etc oil, since it hardens... but then again, I'm far from experienced. I forget the technical term... polymer something or another. I had never used it, or really even heard much about it, until I got my knife from @Molokai and saw how awesome the finish looked on it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## SENC

I think tru-oil and velvit oil are essentially the same thing... concoctions based on boiled linseed oil. They are, indeed, beautiful finishes. My only beef with BLO finishes is they seem to darken more with age than tung. As I recall (I think I need to go back and read the article I referenced), BLO finishes have an additive in them to help them harden (whereas tung does so naturally, though very slowly).

Reactions: Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls

See, I said I wasn't experienced lol. I was thinking velvet oil was like tung oil. And maybe I've just been mistaken all along. Who knows. And blo? I've seen that referenced a lot, but only just realized that it was an acronym for boiled linseed oil. 

What I do know is that tru oil, when applied really thick, takes a LONG time to dry, and if you touch it before it dries, it leaves a fingerprint that will absolutely 100% require sanding off and refinishing. That, I am experienced with.

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## fredito

Thanks for all the help, @SENC the link was very informative, talk about finishing information overload! I think I have the finishes I am thinking about narrowed down to Tung oil, Tru-oil and BLO, mainly due to ease of obtaining them. I need to do more research and see if I can narrow it down to which ones I can get away with without buffing wheels....I have gained more knowledge from this sites members in a few hours then I did looking stuff up for much longer on the web, again thank you!!

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## SENC

Buffing wheels are 100% optional... just fast and easy and get some additional shine. All of those finishes are great without. A good sanding job beforehand is the important part. Good luck!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## BrentWin

Fred, PM me your address and I'll chip in some hedge blanks. I think that it is the easiest wood for call making, both in turning and finishing. I will give you a warning, call making it an addition. Welcome to the darkside.

Brent

PS. Listen to everything that Henry says very carefully, he's an ace call maker and is always willing to help.

As far as Tony, well, he's from Mississippi. Enough said.

Reactions: Great Post 1 | Funny 3


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## eaglea1

Fred, take all the advice you get from here, its all great stuff. When I started, I turned my first duck call in pine, just to see how 
that went , and then I never went back to it. As far as finishes, try the CA, that gives a great finish, and I've sold hundreds of calls
using it, and even a few using Velvet oil, which will waterproof them real nice. Now I'm using a product labeled Call-Coat. You can 
Google it up and find it. It runs about 25 bucks a quart, but it easier than CA, and gives a nice finish after 3 dips. I use the gloss finish. 
Good Luck.....

Reactions: Like 1


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## fredito

Thank you everyone for the advice... @BrentWin I agree, Henry's calls are awesome, I love the old school classic look of them. I will send you a PM, if you like I can send you some pen blanks in return. @eaglea1 I tried to turn a small bowl out of a pine 8x8 I was thinking if it was a disaster, no loss, lets just say it did not go well, but I did learn some valuable lessons. Thank you again everyone for the advice, you have no idea how much it has helped!


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## JR Custom Calls

@BrentWin let me send some hedge instead. I have a lot more than you haha.


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## GeauxGameCalls

One thing DO NOT dip cocobolo because it will take longer for it to dry than it would take Tony to cut his toe hair!


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## fredito

GeauxGameCalls said:


> One thing DO NOT dip cocobolo because it will take longer for it to dry than it would take Tony to cut his toe hair!



Good to know....I was just wondering this morning if I were to dip coco how long would it take to dry!


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## BrentWin

If you want to dip coco, make the first dip in shellac. After it dries, you can dip in spar or any other finish.


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## BrentWin

Fred,

As Jonathan currently has a glut of hedge and has offered to send you some instead. I have forwarded your address to him.

Have fun making calls and don't hesitate to ask questions. Someone here will have an answer and will be glad to help.

Brent

Reactions: Great Post 1


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## NYWoodturner

BrentWin said:


> Fred,
> 
> As Jonathan currently has a glut of hedge and has offered to send you some instead. I have forwarded your address to him.
> 
> Have fun making calls and don't hesitate to ask questions. Someone here will have an answer and will be glad to help.
> 
> Brent


And that's what makes us great. Thanks Brent!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## fredito

BrentWin said:


> Fred,
> 
> As Jonathan currently has a glut of hedge and has offered to send you some instead. I have forwarded your address to him.
> 
> Have fun making calls and don't hesitate to ask questions. Someone here will have an answer and will be glad to help.
> 
> Brent



Sounds good, I am looking forward to it! I do appreciate your generosity. @JR Custom Calls if you would like some pen blanks in return, let me know! Pm me your info and I can cover shipping as well


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