# Question Of The Week... (2014 Week 45)



## ripjack13 (Nov 2, 2014)

Howdy,
This is a weekly series of questions topic for everyone to join in on the discussion. Some of the later questions may have a poll, and some will not.

_Don't be shy now, go ahead and post an answer....

*What are you favorite finishes and why? And what are your favorite tips for achieving a great finish? *




**Rules**
There is no minimum post requirement._


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 2, 2014)

I'll try and keep this simple and short. An oil based finish is still my fave, and usually a blend that I have made. Biggest tip........patience. It often takes longer to correctly apply the finish than it takes to make the project.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2


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## Kevin (Nov 2, 2014)

ripjack13 said:


> _*What are you favorite finishes and why? *_



Shellac and lacquer. These two can be used in many applications and both are easy to apply. 



ripjack13 said:


> _*And what are your favorite tips for achieving a great finish? *_



When it has to be perfect, take it to my buddy's body shop and let him spray with clear coat.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Brink (Nov 2, 2014)

Minwax quick dry oil based poly.
Good enough for a floor, better than good enough for table.
Easy to find, everyone stocks it.
Tip? Learn how to run a bush.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Nov 2, 2014)

Brink said:


> Minwax quick dry oil based poly.
> Good enough for a floor, better than good enough for table.
> Easy to find, everyone stocks it.
> Tip? Learn how to run a bush.



This running a bush-
thing do you have to be naked like the monkey or can you run a bush with clothes on??

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Brink (Nov 2, 2014)

I meant brush! 
And naked is preferred.

Reactions: Funny 5


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## Mike1950 (Nov 2, 2014)

Wipe on poly- general brand- Blo and true oil. I would like to have a really good reason for the WOP but truth is a bought a little Arm-r.coat liked it and then found 2 boxes of the stuff at a shipping place for a buck a quart and 50 cents for the pints. I may have to try something else if I ever run out...........

Reactions: Like 2


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## SENC (Nov 2, 2014)

Pure tung oil for duck calls. Easy application once you get it, and though it takes some time it takes very little "hands-on" time. Penetrates and dries exceptionally well, maybe the best natural weatherproofing a call can get. All natural, non-toxic, and can be thinned with non-toxic citrus solvent. Best of all, I love the finishes I can achieve with it... low gloss sheen to semigloss with buffing and wax. A very rich, natural finish that doesn't darken with age much, especially compared to other oils, like BLO. Doesn't go rancid. Makes calls easy to refinish years later if necessary... just clean and re-oil (nothing to remove, unless waxed).

And no running in the bushes.

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 1


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## Blueglass (Nov 2, 2014)

I use Tru-oil a lot. I like applying it with my finger. I just apply coat after coat and sand in between until I'm happy.

Reactions: Like 1


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## manbuckwal (Nov 2, 2014)

For now since I turn pens and bottle stoppers, CA cuz its fast and allows me to complete the project right away.

CA doesn't have to go on perfect, but make sure u sand until there are no more shiny spots after the last coat, if it needs more coats after sanding, put a cpl more on and re-sand.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tony (Nov 2, 2014)

Wipe-on poly and mineral oil. (not together!) They are easy enough for someone as intellectually challenged as me to use, yet attractive and durable. I build and sell a lot of cutting boards, so a food-safe finish is essential for me. I just soak them in mineral oil and let them dry. Can't get any easier! Wipe-on poly is very easy to apply and fix if need be.


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## Sprung (Nov 2, 2014)

Watco Danish Oil and paste wax. I do 3 to 4 applications of the Danish Oil - spread on, let it soak in (put on more if needed), wipe it off and rub it out with a cotton towel about 30 minutes later then let dry at least a day. Repeat for applications 2-4, but usually decrease the time before wiping off and rubbing it out to about 15 minutes. After the final application has had a chance to cure for at least a few days - usually a week - a couple coats of paste wax are applied, buffed out between coats. Every once in a while I'll apply a coat of paste wax and buff it out on a piece as my way of maintaining the finish. I like how this finish both looks and feels. I've read of people wetsanding with the Danish Oil for the 2nd or 3rd application and that's something I'd like to try sometime.

For turning, I really like Woodturner's Finish, though I (more often than not) use CA on pens.

Reactions: Like 1


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## BarbS (Nov 2, 2014)

I too like Watco Danish oil and wax. When I have a problematic wood, I can put a coat of oil on it and sand it wet, which fills in the pores and minor scratches. With some care, it's never let me down on turnings. I've used WoodTurner's Finish, but I really prefer the oil and wax, with patience, as Matt says.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Tykemo (Nov 7, 2014)

General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. It self levels and can be applied with a foam brush or paint brush and when dry it is very clear.

Reactions: Like 1


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## kweinert (Nov 8, 2014)

Walnut oil and wax for most everything turned. For furniture it's usually General Finishes water based poly.

Reactions: Like 1


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