# Reclaimed Barn Wood table to be.



## sleevecc

I have a table I have been working on and looking for suggestions on a couple of things, Im using reclaimed pine heartwood thats 100+ years old, and some is twisted pretty bad. at this point I have built an oval table top out it and prepped to do some sanding. I plan on running an approx 1/8-1/4 inch Walnut trim around the outside edge to give the top a sort of ridge, then I want to fill the entire top with some kind of epoxy or table top clear coating so i can put a couple old nails, and thin blade tools in it. I did not really in the beginning concentrate on getting each of the tops boards straight on the edges I have a few over sized cracks in the table which I was ok with because of the over all primitive look it is giving. So my questions are.. 

1 what to seal the cracks with? I was thinking some sort of clear silicone, but afraid there might be some type of reaction with the epoxy or top coating that I use, and of course I can't have the coating falling through the cracks and making it all over the floor.

2. A recommended type of epoxy or table top coating to use?

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## Gary Max

Personally---------- leave the cracks----- helps the look.


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## sleevecc

Gary Max said:


> Personally---------- leave the cracks----- helps the look.



I agree, but when I coat the top to be able to place some old hand made nails in the coating,, what do you about the coating falling through the cracks? Im not trying to get rid of the cracks just want I just dont want wood filler or anything like that showing in the cracks themselves thats why I was thinking a clear silicone of some type. but would not want it to turn white or something on me with the reaction from the coating.


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## Gary Max

Silicone will shine and screw the whole "look" up. You could spend a couple days filling with thin CA and sawdust.


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## sleevecc

Gary Max said:


> Silicone will shine and screw the whole "look" up. You could spend a couple days filling with thin CA and sawdust.



hrrm thats a thought,, but would that not still give it a wood filler look to it? IM thinking of just sealing the bottom with some kind of tape or sealant and after filling it with the epoxy come back and remove... Id rather be able to see the floor from the cracks once done if that makes sense,, to obtain and keep the look.


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## ripjack13

sleevecc said:


> IM thinking of just sealing the bottom with some kind of tape



That would be better. You could tape (masking) a piece of saran wrap under the cracks so that it will be shiny and not full of tape bubbles. Just make sure when you do the bartop pour, the table top is level. Try a test board to see what the pitfalls are before doing the actual top.


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## ripjack13

http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/tutorial-videos/?gclid=CIni1YfFj7gCFdKe4AodKgUAKQ

There's some good videos on this page of pouring a table top...It starts at the 2m mark...

Also youtube....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA


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## sleevecc

ripjack13 said:


> http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/tutorial-videos/?gclid=CIni1YfFj7gCFdKe4AodKgUAKQ
> 
> There's some good videos on this page of pouring a table top...It starts at the 2m mark...
> 
> Also youtube....
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA



Thank you,, that pointed me in the right direction. I will be sure to post pics of the outcome.


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## winters98

I think you have a good start to something special. If you want to use epoxy and seal some items inside here is a couple of suggestions.
On the bottom side take some elmer's glue and paste some news paper to the entire bottom covering all the cracks. Then use a tin coat of two part epoxy to fill the gaps it looks like empty space and gives a great deep look to it but it will make it almost impossible to take apart. Place the items between first and second coat. Once all dry just sand of the paper and then you are all done.




sleevecc said:


> ripjack13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/tutorial-videos/?gclid=CIni1YfFj7gCFdKe4AodKgUAKQ
> 
> There's some good videos on this page of pouring a table top...It starts at the 2m mark...
> 
> Also youtube....
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,, that pointed me in the right direction. I will be sure to post pics of the outcome.
Click to expand...


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## sleevecc

winters98 said:


> I think you have a good start to something special. If you want to use epoxy and seal some items inside here is a couple of suggestions.
> On the bottom side take some elmer's glue and paste some news paper to the entire bottom covering all the cracks. Then use a tin coat of two part epoxy to fill the gaps it looks like empty space and gives a great deep look to it but it will make it almost impossible to take apart. Place the items between first and second coat. Once all dry just sand of the paper and then you are all done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sleevecc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ripjack13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/tutorial-videos/?gclid=CIni1YfFj7gCFdKe4AodKgUAKQ
> 
> There's some good videos on this page of pouring a table top...It starts at the 2m mark...
> 
> Also youtube....
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,, that pointed me in the right direction. I will be sure to post pics of the outcome.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


Awesome IDEA!!!!


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## sleevecc

Thank you guys for the ideas that really helps a lot... Another question to add to the equation.. once the top is sanded before applying the epoxy, what would be a good clear stain to use on the table to bring out the true color of the wood?


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## winters98

That depends on what look you are going for any stain could work . I prefer no stain.. what do the boards look like sanded have you sanded a test set of boards????
you can keep the antique look if you want if you sand and use a self leveling epoxy it will be glossy.


sleevecc said:


> Thank you guys for the ideas that really helps a lot... Another question to add to the equation.. once the top is sanded before applying the epoxy, what would be a good clear stain to use on the table to bring out the true color of the wood?


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## winters98

Also note: what ever you do not want covered in epoxy make sure you cover in a layer of wax...


winters98 said:


> That depends on what look you are going for any stain could work . I prefer no stain.. what do the boards look like sanded have you sanded a test set of boards????
> you can keep the antique look if you want if you sand and use a self leveling epoxy it will be glossy.
> 
> 
> sleevecc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for the ideas that really helps a lot... Another question to add to the equation.. once the top is sanded before applying the epoxy, what would be a good clear stain to use on the table to bring out the true color of the wood?
Click to expand...


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## sleevecc

winters98 said:


> That depends on what look you are going for any stain could work . I prefer no stain.. what do the boards look like sanded have you sanded a test set of boards????
> you can keep the antique look if you want if you sand and use a self leveling epoxy it will be glossy.
> 
> 
> sleevecc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for the ideas that really helps a lot... Another question to add to the equation.. once the top is sanded before applying the epoxy, what would be a good clear stain to use on the table to bring out the true color of the wood?
Click to expand...

I have not sanding any yet,,, been getting my head together and my ducks in a row.. then Ill try to start and complete in a day or 3. lol ,, I just know with wood. that is dry if you put say water on it, it brings out the real color you can say... will the epoxy do the same? I guess that is more the correct question..


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## winters98

yes the epoxy will make it look like minerial oil was poured on it ,
this is a table I made with an epoxy cover as an example . I have a similar project to yours in the works i can share updates. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/69340

Do you have a spare board not part of the table from the same wood?
If so sand it and put a test coat of poly or epoxy on it . I always test on the bottom of my projects , with 4 or 5 stains and 2 different finish if i don't have a test piece.




sleevecc said:


> winters98 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That depends on what look you are going for ny stain could work . I prefer no stain.. what do the boards look like sanded have you sanded a test set of boards????
> you can keep the antique look if you want if you sand and use a self leveling epoxy it will be glossy.
> 
> 
> sleevecc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys for the ideas that really helps a lot... Another question to add to the equation.. once the top is sanded before applying the epoxy, what would be a good clear stain to use on the table to bring out the true color of the wood?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have not sanding any yet,,, been getting my head together and my ducks in a row.. then Ill try to start and complete in a day or 3. lol ,, I just know with wood. that is dry if you put say water on it, it brings out the real color you can say... will the epoxy do the same? I guess that is more the correct question..
Click to expand...


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## barry richardson

Hey Kelvin, nice table! Do you have any suggestions to cover the edges evenly with the bartop resin. When I tried to do something like that I had trouble getting a nice coat on the sides. also, don't you loose a lot of the resin by not having it contained and running off the sides?


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## winters98

You will loose some as it is self leveling but it is thick enough. That table has a 1/4" coat on it . As for the sides I give it a good coat then go back an hour later or after it is fairly dry and re brush. The bar coat epoxy is so thick I never had any issues with it not sealing.


barry richardson said:


> Hey Kelvin, nice table! Do you have any suggestions to cover the edges evenly with the bartop resin. When I tried to do something like that I had trouble getting a nice coat on the sides. also, don't you loose a lot of the resin by not having it contained and running off the sides?


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