# How much pith?



## The100road (Apr 29, 2017)

Okay, so me and my dad processed a walnut log about 1 1/2 months ago into some bowl blanks. Most about 6"x6"x5". When cutting the rounds I cut out the pith about 1" on each side. This was my first log I've ever processed. I set them on the drying rack and figured I put anchorseal on them when I get more time.

Well I started doing that today and noticed about 60% of the bowl blanks are already cracked!!!!

1) did I cut out enough of the pith?

2) I waited to long to seal?

I live in western Washington. Its 50 and raining. Didn't think they would dry and crack so fast.


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## DKMD (Apr 29, 2017)

I'm betting you didn't seal them quickly enough. An inch either side of the pith should be good enough for walnut.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 6


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## DKMD (Apr 29, 2017)

If you're pressed for time, run out of sealer, or are just worn out after processing, you can chuck the blanks into a plastic trash bag for several days to a week(or two) before sealing them. If you leave them too long, they'll get pretty funky with mold/mildew.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## ripjack13 (Apr 29, 2017)

Just don't forget it for two years in the bag....

https://woodbarter.com/threads/2-years-in-the-bag.29428/

Reactions: Funny 4


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## The100road (Apr 29, 2017)

Haha thanks. I'm so impatient I'm testing my wood like weekly to see if it's magically lost 15%MC sense last week. I don't think forgetting 2 years would happen with me.

I tried the bag in the freezer that @barry richardson suggested to quicken the drying time on some locust burl but didn't really seem to make a difference on that.

Reactions: Like 1


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## rocky1 (Apr 29, 2017)

Marc was growing spalted lumber in his shop... It worked pretty good!!

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Vern Tator (May 11, 2017)

I'm not sure what I'm reading. You don't show any pictures of any blanks with the pith cut out. Heart checks are common in Walnut, but they cut out with the pith. Walnut dries very quickly, I often have roughed bowl blanks dried in 2 months, and that is for blanks 2" thick. I am in the seattle area. If you want to keep it fresh, put it in a garbage can full of water, it will stay wet indefinitely.


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## The100road (May 11, 2017)

I didn't post pictures of blanks with the pith cut out. I'm assuming most know what a cracked piece of wood looks like. 

I'm very new to wood working and have read that wood drys about a year per inch thick. So, 2" thick is two years was my thought process. Now you're telling me two months?


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## woodtickgreg (May 11, 2017)

The year per inch rule is a general rule of thumb but many factors come into play. What is the climate like in your area, air movement, temperature, srickered, etc. Also the year per inch is more for lumber for furniture building. Turning stock can be roughed out green and then dried to speed things up. I tend to use the year per inch for lumber in my area just because, but not for turning stock. Anchor seal is my friend, I coat end grain and knots with 2 heavy coats wrapping up over the straight grain an inch or two or three.
The only way to be sure how dry wood is is with a moisture meter on a fresh cut end. Drying times are always different for each species of wood, climate where you are at, and how it was cut. It's a widely varied learning curve.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Vern Tator (May 11, 2017)

What I'm sharing with you is my experience. Roughed walnut bowl blanks, which are 50% endgrain will dry in about 2 months in my shed in Seattle. This varies by wood specie. Madrone takes at least a year, with Big Leaf Maple falling somewhere in between.

Reactions: Like 1


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## The100road (May 11, 2017)

Thanks. Everything I've cut in the last five months is nowhere close to dry yet. All though they have cracked they are still above say 20% MC. But most are 2-4" thick square blanks in my garage. not rough turned.


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## Karl_TN (May 11, 2017)

Stan,

I have Anchor Seal, but I mostly use cheap candles (melted down using a hot plate) to seal wood. Anything cut green has it's end grain dipped into the how wax before storing. I mostly cover the ends, but sometimes I'll cover the entire blank if it's large or has knots.

When you're in a slight hurry to dry a rough turned blank then boil it using a turkey fryer (filled with water over the blank) for at least an hour per inch of thickness. This stops some of the cracking and cuts down the drying time by 50%. Regardless, you still want to seal the end grain when possible. 

When you're in a big hurry to dry a rough turned bowl blank then follow these steps. First boil the blank as described above and then let it dry out overnight. Next cover the outside of a blank with saranwrap, and put the blank in microwave at medium power for a few minutes (don't let blank get too hot or it will crack). Repeat this until most of the water has been removed (driven from the inside out due to saranwrap). Once most of the water is gone then take off the saranwrap and continue microwaving at medium power until bowl reaches the desired moisture content. YMMV.

Tip: Use a kitchen scale to weigh your blanks. When it stops losing weight over a few days then it's probably dry enough.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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