# Duck call inserts



## B Rogers

I finally cut my first duck call insert but I have no idea how to tune it. First of all I had to really blow hard to get sounds. It was ducky but by no means the sound I want. Granted I threw it together really quickly just to make sure I was in the ball park. I used a 5/8 dowel and a piece of red cedar for the bell. I didn't even take time to turn the bell down. I did bore the exhaust to about 3/8". Any advice on tuning and making it easier to blow? I have no idea where to begin. Any help is much appreciated. I've posted pics even though it was made from scrap in case something stands out that I should address. A friend who is a machinist helped make the jig so it isn't hardened and I can adjust it as needed.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## djg

I've never made a call, but all my calls, the reed extends flush with the end of the tone board? Doesn't look like you can pull it out any further though.


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

B.....I have made duck calls for years...and experienced the same problem in the beginning. I would work and work trying to get it right. And then I came across an old PS Olt call......I noticed a couple things..first the tone boar was not perfectly flat it ran at a very slight angle from the break over to the back of the wedge.....this raised the reed up at the tip somewhat....which meant it caught more air....thus not having to blow so hard to make the call work. Second the reed was extended to around an 1/8" beyond the break in the tone channel...and the this also allowed for the air to pick it up faster. If you look carefully at the picture of one of my acrylic calls you'll see the reed length clearer....if you have any questions you want to talk over give me a call....

Reactions: Thank You! 2 | +Karma 1 | Informative 3


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## Spinartist




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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis



Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 3


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## B Rogers

Jack "Pappy" Lewis said:


> View attachment 151058


Nice looking call. Thank you for the advice. I may give you a call if I have trouble during my testing.


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## FLQuacker

I hope you are aware...the perils of your path

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 2


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

FLQuacker said:


> I hope you are aware...the perils of your path


addictive isn't it? LOL

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Tony

Jack "Pappy" Lewis said:


> B.....I have made duck calls for years...and experienced the same problem in the beginning. I would work and work trying to get it right. And then I came across an old PS Olt call......I noticed a couple things..first the tone boar was not perfectly flat it ran at a very slight angle from the break over to the back of the wedge.....this raised the reed up at the tip somewhat....which meant it caught more air....thus not having to blow so hard to make the call work. Second the reed was extended to around an 1/8" beyond the break in the tone channel...and the this also allowed for the air to pick it up faster. If you look carefully at the picture of one of my acrylic calls you'll see the reed length clearer....if you have any questions you want to talk over give me a call....



Pappy, I edited your post and removed your number, private contact info needs to be shared via PM. Thanks for stepping up to help! Tony

Reactions: Like 1


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## The100road

Awesome of you to share some of your secrets with beginning call makers Pappy. Much appreciated.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

Tony said:


> Pappy, I edited your post and removed your number, private contact info needs to be shared via PM. Thanks for stepping up to help! Tony


that is cool with me when you got only one good eye you tend to miss some things.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

The100road said:


> Awesome of you to share some of your secrets with beginning call makers Pappy. Much appreciated.


thanks Stan sharing is the only way we can keep the craft alive.....

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 5


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## against.the.grain

B show us a picture of the top of the tone board with out the reed installed.


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## B Rogers

against.the.grain said:


> B show us a picture of the top of the tone board with out the reed installed.


Will do. I'll snap one tomorrow. I went back today and filed some more on the toneboard and seated the cork in better. It was much easier to blow after those minor adjustments. Still not the sound I want, but again, it's a cheap poplar dowel.

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## B Rogers

@against.the.grain and @Jack "Pappy" Lewis per your request. All advice is appreciated. I did do some fine filing on the toneboard and seated the cork in tighter with good results. Much easier to blow now but still not the sound I'd like.


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## against.the.grain

It’s to say for sure from pictures only , but I think the tone board channel is too shallow and a little too long.

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## B Rogers

I drilled that with a 1/4" bit should I go with something a little larger?


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## against.the.grain

1/4 is pretty standard but several things could affect the final result. Did you drill it on a press or the lathe? If the bit wandered, then your bore would be off center. Then depending on which way it was placed in the jig to cut it, it could be deeper, shallow or off to one side. Even if your bore was centered and you cut it straight, the more you file off, the more shallow the channel will become. The depth is also criticaly important.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## B Rogers

I drilled on the lathe. I'll try to take it a little slower next time. I also need to find a 6" brad point bit. Maybe that'll help.


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

from what I see in the pics I would say too the you are a shade too close to where the drop is on the tone board. If you drilled 1/4" on the lathe it should be close to center as it can get, But I really think the tone channel begins too close to the tone board drop back around and 1/8" to start with and see what happens. Also one thing that a lot of folks don't know is that the direction of the grain makes a difference too, take a cotton ball and run it lightly in both direction and see where it grabs, if it grabs from the tip to the wedge you need to make your next one from the opposite end. Look at my pics, you'll see what I am saying about the tone channel and the drop in the tone board. see the distance the tone channel begins on mine.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## B Rogers

Jack "Pappy" Lewis said:


> from what I see in the pics I would say too the you are a shade too close to where the drop is on the tone board. If you drilled 1/4" on the lathe it should be close to center as it can get, But I really think the tone channel begins too close to the tone board drop back around and 1/8" to start with and see what happens. Also one thing that a lot of folks don't know is that the direction of the grain makes a difference too, take a cotton ball and run it lightly in both direction and see where it grabs, if it grabs from the tip to the wedge you need to make your next one from the opposite end. Look at my pics, you'll see what I am saying about the tone channel and the drop in the tone board. see the distance the tone channel begins on mine.View attachment 151333 View attachment 151332


Thanks.. So you're saying you drill the 1/4" channel about 1/8" shorter than I did in my pic?


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

Bryson, look at the tape measure in my pics.....use it as a guide. another thing are your inserts 5/8" across?

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## B Rogers

Yes sir they are 5/8".


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

Then I would guess it lies in two things....the distance from the tip of the tone board to the front of the tone channel & the amount of drop back to the wedge ...


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## The100road

What do you mean by the amount of drop back to the wedge pappy?


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

if you go from the center of the tone channel back to the wedge you can take a file and cut an angle to where you will raise the tip of the reed/s which will allow you to run the call easier with less air, if you grunt or if you blow. Some people want to have a flat straight surface from the tone channel tip end to the wedge, it is ok for Reelfoot style calls but not for double reed J-call setup.

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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis



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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

Bryson here you go....

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## B Rogers

Finally had time to tinker with another insert. Made sure the tone channel depth was better and experimented with trimming the reed. Much better this time. Sounds decent and easy to blow. A couple more questions for you all. It gets a little too high pitched when you really get on it. It doesn't squeak or squeal but I'd like a little deeper raspy sound. Any tips for what to adjust to make that happen?
Also, do you all typically use osage/abw/etc for toneboard material and sleeve it with the wood you use for the barrel? Or do you do the entire insert from a dense wood or acrylic?
I was planning to sleeve some ABW with some nice stabilized BEB I have but wondered what you all typically do and what works best. Thanks in advance.


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## against.the.grain

Your reed may be a little short now. A little sliver makes a big difference. As far as the materials question, either option you mentioned will work just fine. Personally I don’t do acrylic. Sometimes I sleeve , sometimes I make them from one piece.

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## against.the.grain

Which ever route you take, the tone board needs to be durable and very stable. Burl for the tone board isn’t a good idea. Sleeving a a good option to get a stable toneboard while getting the look of the burl/figured wood to match your barrel.

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## B Rogers

against.the.grain said:


> Which ever route you take, the tone board needs to be durable and very stable. Burl for the tone board isn’t a good idea. Sleeving a a good option to get a stable toneboard while getting the look of the burl/figured wood to match your barrel.


I was planning to go with osage or ABW. Anything else work better?


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## against.the.grain

Those are hard to beat. Cocobolo is also but it can be tricky to glue.


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## Jack "Pappy" Lewis

looks like you are getting close...use a good grade straight and tight grain wood like the osage or blackwood, something hard, no burls......sleeving is ok, but if you want strength go with one piece. As for the high pitch thing, try pulling out the reed just a hair first, see if that changes it if it does then cut you a new reed to the length you found that sounded best by experimenting on adjusting the length in your trials. One other ting check your trimmed sides on the tip of the reed, no need to take a bunch off and check your reed's flex, by holding it between your thumb and index finger and pushing towards each end, which ever side goes down that is the side you put down on your insert.

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