# Stihl MS 170 Oiler



## djg (Jan 9, 2015)

My oiler on my limbing saw appears to not be working. It's gotten cold lately, teens and 20s, so at first I thought it might just be thick oil. But I'm not sure. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I've never worked on either of my saws. I probably should have due to the problems I've have with two shops in the past. Would have saved a lot of money. I just hate to run up a $50 - $100 bill on a saw that only cost me $170.

I've removed the bar and the oil port is clear, no blockage. Can you back blow the oil system with compressed air, or might this damage something. I've pulled up the parts diagram and it looks like there's a hose and some sort of pump mechanism. Is it hard to work on the oiler system?

Thanks


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## Kevin (Jan 9, 2015)

I don't saw in this kind of weather. I tried it once and I didn't like it. So I can't help you.

@woodtickgreg can though.


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## JR Custom Calls (Jan 9, 2015)

Seems like I've heard of thinning oil down with something. I read it somewhere on arboristsite.

EDIT: after looking around, it appears people recommend Diesel or Kerosene. Maybe Greg can confirm whether that's a good idea or not.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## djg (Jan 9, 2015)

Kevin said:


> I don't saw in this kind of weather. I tried it once and I didn't like it.......


 
I don't like it either, but I need frozen ground to get all the brush to where I need it. I've got a row of white pine trees along my property and three have died from the fungus. So now is a good time to bring them down.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Final Strut (Jan 9, 2015)

Up here in da nort we just buy winter grade bar oil doncha know. 

In all seriousness Stihl makes a winter grade bar oil that is much thinner for our cold temps. If it is actually something mechanical it may be the worm gear on the pump. Mine went to crap on me last summer.


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## djg (Jan 9, 2015)

Are they hard to change?


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## DavidDobbs (Jan 9, 2015)

Can you adjust the oil flow in the ms170?
My ms650 & ms290 you can.


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## Final Strut (Jan 9, 2015)

djg said:


> Are they hard to change?


I watched a video on how to do it and it didn't look that hard but I honestly couldn't tell you because I took it to my dad who is a Stihl mechanic and let him deal with it.


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## woodtickgreg (Jan 10, 2015)

Thinning the oil is ok, I use diesel fuel or kerosene to thin it, I learned this trick milling with a chainsaw mill in the winter. As far as the oiler goes, they pretty much work or don't work, you shouldn't have to readjust them. They are gear driven off of the crankshaft. The gear on the shaft is usually harder so it doesn't wear out, if a gear wears out you want it to be the oiler gear. In my experience if I tear down a saw to inspect the oiler, I just replace the oiler anyway. There are some special tools needed to remove the clutch with out damaging it. And you will need a piston stop or a length of rope to use as a piston stop. The oiler is behind the clutch. But before you go through all of this get the saw in a warm area and then run it to see if the oiler works when it's warm and maybe was just thick oil. I hope this helps you some, if you have any more questions just ask.
Greg


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## djg (Jan 10, 2015)

I brought the saw in overnight prior to your post. It makes sense to make sure something needs to be fixed before I tear into it.
I'll run it later today to see if I'm getting oil through.

Thanks


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## eaglea1 (Jan 10, 2015)

You could always try some auto tranny fluid .It works great to give something like a polesaw an enema so to speak when they get plugged up.
The bar and chain oil system is a full-loss lubrication system, so it pretty much just has to be able to flow to the bar and hold on to the chain long enough to make it one or two trips around the bar before getting flung off. If it's too thick to flow then thin it out a little with some kerosene, provided that your pump is indeed working correctly. Good Luck


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## djg (Jan 11, 2015)

Update:
Well I finally got my rear off the warm couch and worked on my saw. I took the bar off and started it. Nothing. I ran it for 30 sec or more, but the oil would not flow. Warming oil didn't seem to help.
I saw a video where a guy used compressed air in a situation like mine. So after jury rigging an adapter to fit my oil fill, I gave it a few quick bursts of compressed air. I did not have a good seal, so I did not give the oil tank a full blast of 100 psig air. I did create quite a mess on my bench saw though, despite newspaper. Oh well it needed cleaning anyway.
I put the cap back on and restarted the saw. Within seconds, I had oil flow. So it won't require a trip to the shop.

Thanks for all replies and advice.

Reactions: Like 1


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