# Stabilizing knife scale question



## DLJeffs (Jan 14, 2015)

I bought some walnut knife scales from Mike a couple weeks ago and I got a vacuum chamber from Santee Claus. Got some cactus juice from Curtis. Then I finally got my vac pump working. So I'm all set to start making a set of steak knives for my daughter. Here's the question:

Is it better to rough out the scales (roughly +/- 1/8 inch fit on the handles) before stabilizing? Or to stabilize the scales as is and then start the fitting process? Or maybe it doesn't make one diff of bitterence either way? I'm thinking that penetration is everything so the less wood the stabilizing resin has to penetrate the better and therefore leaning to the first option above. Thanks for any forewarnings or things I should watch out for. This'll be my first shot at stabilizing anything.


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## Schroedc (Jan 14, 2015)

If the scales are way oversized you could rough out and remove some material to save on how much resin you'll use BUT I have occasionally had something warp a little during the bake phase and if you took it too far you might end up with a set of scales you can't use. I'm sure Curtis will weigh in as he is a guru when it comes to this stuff but in my opinion, especially since you are just getting started, stabilize the scales whole and go from there. As you get more comfortable with doing your own stabilization you'll figure out how close to your final dimensions you can take stuff before stabilization.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## Cody Killgore (Jan 14, 2015)

It really does not matter. I don't think you will have a problem with penetration unless it is a super dense wood. I have done it both ways but most of the time I stabilize them in block form before I slice them down to scales. It is just easy for me to do it that way. 

From time to time, I have had some slight warping with scales while the blank cooks in the oven.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Foot Patrol (Jan 14, 2015)

I have been sending wood out to be stabilized. I typically send out in 1.5 x 1.5 x 5 inch blocks for scales I am not dying. If I am dying the wood before being stabilized I am now cutting them into 7/8 x 1.5 x 5 inch blocks. Since I glue the outer edges of the block to the knife as I sand the scales I am getting better color the more wood I take off.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## TurnTex (Jan 14, 2015)

If you are doing the process correctly per my directions (if using Cactus Juice), then penetration is not going to be an issue. I have done MUCH larger pieces with complete penetration and complete concentration. Remember, penetration means nothing, it is concentration we are looking for. Concentration is the amount of empty space in the wood we have filled. Given proper vacuum time and proper soak time, even concentration is not an issue with any wood except oily woods.

So, to directly answer you question, it will not make a difference in the finished product. The only reason I would rough shape would be to save a few pennies of Cactus Juice.

For those who are getting warp, if you are drying your wood to 0% moisture as I suggest, you should not be getting any warp during the polymerization step. Any warping should occur before you ever run them through the Cactus Juice.

Reactions: Like 1


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## DLJeffs (Jan 14, 2015)

Thanks all. I might cut the scales a hair shorter because right now they come within an inch of the top of my chamber and I'm worried about foam getting into the vac tubing. But I'll leave them the width and thickness they are and I'll make sure they're as dry as I can make them before I start.


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## TurnTex (Jan 14, 2015)

Doug,

Read and follow the sheet I included with your Juice and all should go well. Pay attention to the section on drying your blanks.


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## NYWoodturner (Jan 14, 2015)

Doug - Stabilize before you start shaping. You can cut the profile out but you will want to do all of your drilling for pins or corby's while the scales are flat. The dollar you save in resin isn't worth the time you will lose trying to correct a drilling problem. (Been there done that )

Reactions: Agree 1


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## DLJeffs (Jan 15, 2015)

Thanks guys. I'll follow directions to the tee Curtis. And Scott, thanks also. I have made one knife before and learned from that one too not drill any holes until the scales are all and truly fit - at least relative to the flatness against the blank and the forward edge where it's so difficult to do any finishing after the scales are in place.


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## Cody Killgore (Jan 15, 2015)

TurnTex said:


> For those who are getting warp, if you are drying your wood to 0% moisture as I suggest, you should not be getting any warp during the polymerization step. Any warping should occur before you ever run them through the Cactus Juice.



This has pretty much been the case. The ones that have warped I was rushed to get them stabilized and did not have them 100% dry.


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