# saw chain for csm



## jimmyjames (Sep 20, 2013)

Hi guys I picked up a 660 yesterday , I got 2 bars with it , a 24" and a 36" and 4 loops of Stihl rs chain for each bar, I think I'm going to go ahead and order a Alaskan mill for the 36" bar as well as the aux oiler for it since the 660's oiler will barely oil a 36" bar without replacing the oil pump with the high volume one. I will me mainly be noodling blocks down for blanks with it, it works pretty slick the rip a big crotch right down the middle and buck it to 30" or so and then noddle it into slabs and then band saw them into blanks, I'm not looking for perfect cut quality so I don't think I need ripping chain, I may use it for slabbing from time to time since it will be easy to just setup on a downed log and mill it but most my slabbed stuff will be cut on my band saw mill I'm building. What's everybody use for chain on they're csm?


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## SDB777 (Sep 20, 2013)

Go to Bailey's chainsaw website, search ripping chain....pick your loop link size and woohoo! You'll have what you need. You stated you 'may use it' to make slabs from time-to-time, so just get the ripping stuff and be done with it the first time. 'Standard' chain loops are easy to get there too.


I get all my ripping chain from them, fast and easy(especially since no one I trust here locally will get it at a decent price).






Scott (welcome to the obsession) B


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 20, 2013)

I have been using Bailey's ripping chain as well, but I modify the cutter angle to about 16 to 18 degrees. I want to try a full skip tooth and modify it the same way and see how it does. One thing I do like about the ripping chain is the cutters are half width to aid in clearing saw dust and it takes less power to pull a long ripping chain. I used to be all hung up on smooth cut quality, but I really don't see what difference it makes, you have to plane it anyway. I like to mill a little on the thick side anyway to allow for some warpage wiggle room, if you know what I mean. The Bailey's ripping chains do cut smooth though.


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## HomeBody (Sep 22, 2013)

I'm running a 660 with 28" bar and use Baileys Woodland Pro ripping chain. Bought a roll. My brother has a spinner to make loops for me. I use .375 X 0.50. That gives a 1/4" kerf and lines up with the 1/4" clicks on my Logosol M7 to raise the bed. I get pretty smooth cuts, no complaints. Gary


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## HomeBody (Sep 23, 2013)

jimmyjames said:


> as the aux oiler for it since the 660's oiler will barely oil a 36" bar without replacing the oil pump with the high volume one.



Just thought of this: When I started using my 660 it didn't oil good either. I was using the last of a gal, of Poulan bar oil. I tried turning up the flow with the adjustment on the bottom but that didn't help. Ran out of Poulan bar oil and bought a gal. of Stihl oil. BIG DIFFERENCE! The Stihl oil is much thinner and I think my 660 is metered for the Stihl oil. Since I started using it, the reservoir empties much quicker and I'm getting oil now. You might give it a try Jimmie. Gary


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## Kevin (Sep 23, 2013)

I agree. Bar oils are not all the same. Buy some of that cheapo bar oil at the convenience store on the way to the bush one day and you'll find out. I use Husky brand bar oil (I think it is made by the people who make Stihl?) and Woodsman Pro engine oil.


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 23, 2013)

I have been using bar oil from tractor supply, supper thick and sticky. If the oil just flings off the bar it doesn't do much good. This stuff is fairly inexpensive, about $7.00 a gallon. When I use it in cold conditions I set the black jug it comes in in the sun to warm up and thin out. In freezing conditions I add a little diesel fuel to the oil to thin it or it won't flow through the gravity aux oiler on my mill, it is supper sticky. I also changed the shut off valve on the aux oiler from a screw type to a ball type for better flow and quicker on/off. I do not like the thinner oils for milling. jmo.
Edit: using this bar oil my oil tank empties at the same rate as the fuel tank, that is important. You don't want your bar oil running out before your fuel tank.


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## Kevin (Sep 23, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> ...In freezing conditions I add a little diesel fuel to the oil to thin it or it won't flow through the gravity aux oiler on my mill, ....



In freezing conditions down here, the operator does not work so no problems with the saws.


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## jimmyjames (Sep 23, 2013)

Kevin said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> > ...In freezing conditions I add a little diesel fuel to the oil to thin it or it won't flow through the gravity aux oiler on my mill, ....
> ...



Do you guys even have freezing conditions down there? :i_dunno:


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## jimmyjames (Sep 23, 2013)

Kevin said:


> I agree. Bar oils are not all the same. Buy some of that cheapo bar oil at the convenience store on the way to the bush one day and you'll find out. I use Husky brand bar oil (I think it is made by the people who make Stihl?) and Woodsman Pro engine oil.



You'd be surprised how many brands are the same, St IHL 2 cycle oil along with a number of others are packaged at warner distribution here in council bluffs, I worked there for a short time and the only thing difference I noticed is that they'd just put different colored bottles on the line and also got different labels....... stuff came already blended in train cars...... I've been using an Oregon branded bar oil from menards, was on sale for $4.99 a gallon regular $12.99, I bought the last 5 gallons they had.


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