# Question



## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

so, I didn't muscle and turned speed down to 30%. Both sides look very similar. All of the ones I have done so far my line has run all the way to the top. I didn't do that on this one as I used a jig on about an 88% angle @NYWoodturner. Now that I have my bevel to this point can I leave the rest up to the spine the way it is (original color of steel) or how would I go about cleaning it up without messing up my bevel ? Besides being real careful. I actually kinda like the look of it but i don't know how it would end up looking once I use it. 
Sorry for all the questions. Just be glad yall don't live next door. Of course Robert is up the road. Lol. Maybe I should stick to sticks

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


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## Molokai (Oct 25, 2015)

I would leave it as is, it's Scandi grind. But that handle shape looks uncomfortable.... ?


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## Nature Man (Oct 25, 2015)

Will you be using this knife, or is it for display? I rather like the look of the blade/bevel, presuming you plan to buff out the rest of the blade. Do you have a handle picked out yet? Chuck


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 25, 2015)

Tony that is a huge improvement. You could leave it as is but like you said I don't know how it would look what you started using it. I agree with Tom though leave the grind as it is. Just cleaning up the Babe the grind flat on the belt against your plat Babe the grind flat on the belt against your platen. 
The "scoop" on the bottom side of the handle can be widened bu an inch in both directions.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

Molokai said:


> I would leave it as is, it's Scandi grind. But that handle shape looks uncomfortable.... ?


Yeah you are right. I thought it felt good but think it can be changed some. thanks


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## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

Nature Man said:


> Will you be using this knife, or is it for display? I rather like the look of the blade/bevel, presuming you plan to buff out the rest of the blade. Do you have a handle picked out yet? Chuck


No handle pick out yet but if I keep it I plan to use it but I need to get a couple done for Christmas also.


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## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

wonder if I should bring the handle up to below the cutting edge


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 25, 2015)

Not sure what you mean Tony but I would shape it something like this...

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> Not sure what you mean Tony but I would shape it something like this...
> 
> View attachment 90218[/
> Headed back out there now lol


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## robert flynt (Oct 25, 2015)

You can leave it the way it is but I am not sure that mill scale will stay on there very well. I usually use my horizonally mounted disk grinder to clean up the flats after the first blade grind then correct any problem created using finer grit belts to regrind the blade. It takes practice to hold it flat on the platen but you can get a blade magnet and use it to hold the blade while cleaning it up using the platen. As far as the grip, don't make it to big for the normal hand. Make it comfortable, to fat is not comfortable, it really doesn't matter how wide the blade is.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tclem (Oct 25, 2015)

Forgot to take a picture (I will later ) went ahead and took some more out of the handle. Looks way better. @robert flynt have a disk grinder. Guess I should have cleaned it up first. I'm so use to running it all the way up to the spine. Lol.


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## therichinc (Nov 4, 2015)

Im with @robert flynt not sure if the mill scale will stay very well. I do flats my belt grinder Ill start with 120 or 220 depending on how bad the steel is, and go to 400 if its going to be bead blasted. If you want to mirror polish you would need to go farther then that for sure. It takes time behind the grinder to be able to do the flats without getting into your grind line after a while it gets easy. Now are you grinding all the way finished before heat treating? If so you need to be very careful because your blade will want to warp during quenching. The reason I ask is personally I will rough grind down to about 25-35 thousandths thick at edge before heat treat. Then before heat treat I will do my flats to 400 at least. Then heat treat, then go back over my flats, then finish my final grind. This way even if you get into your grind while doing flats you leave yourself the opportunity to fix it on your final grind.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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