# Powermatic Problems



## Johnturner (Feb 2, 2020)

I am the proud owner of a 3520B and have been for several years (since 2007). Today while turning I shut it off as always, went to turn it on again and nothing. I cycled the on/off several times nothing - I even pushed the reset button on the inverter still nothing. It is on it's own 220 line with nothing else on it. I tried to follow the cable and it appears to go into the main, 110 breaker box. There is nothing that could be a 220 breaker. None of the regular breakers are tripped. Yes it's plugged in. Any woodturning electricians out there?

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## TimR (Feb 2, 2020)

Did you shut off power from the breaker, or just uplug it...and...wait for VFD to shut off before repowering? Takes about 5-10 seconds if I recall...mine has done same in past. I just unplug, wait to see the lights go off on VFD, then plug back in and power on. Seems to work for me.


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## Johnturner (Feb 2, 2020)

VFD?????


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## DKMD (Feb 2, 2020)

Agree.. unplug and wait a few minutes before plugging back in. It’s happened to me a few times.


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## DKMD (Feb 2, 2020)

Johnturner said:


> VFD?????



variable frequency drive


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## Spinartist (Feb 2, 2020)

Maybe on/off switch is bad. A few Powermatic users in my area have had to replace them. Tap on it a couple times & retry it.

Or does your forward/reverse switch have a off position in middle?


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## TimR (Feb 2, 2020)

I’ve never had the big red switch in the headstock go bad, but have with the optional remote switch. If you suspect the switch, it can be disassembled and cleaned...just take it slow so parts not lost. Also, if you have that remote, let me know and I’ll try to walk through a few things about it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Maverick (Feb 2, 2020)

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a wire to the switch had come loose. But I have also heard of switches going bad on the 3520B.


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## Johnturner (Feb 3, 2020)

Monday I will try unplugging it and let you know.


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## barry richardson (Feb 3, 2020)

I had a similar issue not long ago, mine is a 3520a but it had a replacement VDF that is the one for 3520b. Turns out my VDF was cooked, (my lathe is on its third now) the first time it happened was with the original owner. Hopefully your problem is something simple, VDFs are not cheap. I believe my problem was caused by keeping my lathe plugged in all the time with no surge protector, we seem to have a lot of power outages, and thunder storms here where I live.... Powermatic has pretty good technical support, you can call them and they will help you troubleshoot your lathe...


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## William Tanner (Feb 3, 2020)

Hope it is an easy fix John. I don’t have an issue with power outages here but I have a habit of unplugging my lathes, saws and grinders when I’m done for the day. I don’t get out to the shop every day and I feel more comfortable doing that. I went out one time and found a 220 heater plug smoldering in the wall outlet. I now have a new hard wired heater. Good luck John.

Reactions: Sincere 1


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## Johnturner (Feb 3, 2020)

OK Guys - Latest report - I tried the unplug/plug- nothing, I tried cycling the button several times - nothing. I called Powermatic, it took me a while to get connected, they said unplug, turn the speed all the way down, cycle the on/off 10-20 times, then hit the reset, plug in - still nothing. The rep on the phone said it is probably the on/off switch. He gave me the part number for the switch. Does anyone have any idea on price? Just ballpark.
The one thing I have not done is find the 220 breaker. Does 220 even use a breaker? I tried to follow the cable from the plug and it appears to go into the main, 110 breaker box, but behind the breaker panel. Is there anything behind the breaker panel? What does a 220 breaker look like. I'm not a total virgin when it comes to electricity but there is a LOT I don't know.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## TimR (Feb 3, 2020)

220 breakers will typically be twice the size of 110 breakers. May have a little rod that ties them together.


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## Maverick (Feb 3, 2020)

I think I paid around $10 for a switch at Grangers. Ended up not needing it because I just had a loose wire. If you have trouble finding one let me know and I will try and help you out.


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## Wildthings (Feb 3, 2020)

Johnturner said:


> OK Guys - Latest report - I tried the unplug/plug- nothing, I tried cycling the button several times - nothing. I called Powermatic, it took me a while to get connected, they said unplug, turn the speed all the way down, cycle the on/off 10-20 times, then hit the reset, plug in - still nothing. The rep on the phone said it is probably the on/off switch. He gave me the part number for the switch. Does anyone have any idea on price? Just ballpark.
> The one thing I have not done is find the 220 breaker. Does 220 even use a breaker? I tried to follow the cable from the plug and it appears to go into the main, 110 breaker box, but behind the breaker panel. Is there anything behind the breaker panel? What does a 220 breaker look like. I'm not a total virgin when it comes to electricity but there is a LOT I don't know.


John, open up your 110 breaker box and see if there are any double-pole breakers in it. If there are then check to see if any are thrown. A 220v breaker can be in the same box as the 110v breakers


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## CWS (Feb 4, 2020)

someone may have used 2 110 breakers without the bar that ties them together to feed the circuit. If you do enough rewiring old houses you would not believe how things got wired. Good Luck!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Johnturner (Feb 4, 2020)

Maverick said:


> I think I paid around $10 for a switch at Grangers. Ended up not needing it because I just had a loose wire. If you have trouble finding one let me know and I will try and help you out.


The Powermatic tech rep gave me a part # for the switch-should I hold off and get it from Grainger?


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## Maverick (Feb 4, 2020)

I got mine from Grainger because I didn't want to wait for one to be mailed to me and there is a store about 20 minutes from me. If you have one near by, that would probably be your quickest turn around to try and get your lathe up and running again....assuming, hopefully, that is the problem.


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## Johnturner (Feb 4, 2020)

Powermatic wants $92.50 for the push/pull switch.do you have a part # for Grainger or what they call it? How easy is the install? (There's a Grainger about 5min from my house.)


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Feb 4, 2020)

If you take the switch in, they should be able to get you what you need.


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## TimR (Feb 4, 2020)

Before I bought a new switch, I’d verify yours is no good. Unplug or shut off breaker, Pull the electrical cover off to show the back of your push button switch. Pull the connections off the back of the switch (mark to put them back as found), and hook up a voltmeter to the two connectors on the switch. If they are smart, the Off position should be no continuity (really high resistance in megohms likely) and when On, should be continuity (very low resistance ). 
It’s possible the continuity vs non-continuity is opposite my thoughts, I can always pull mine off to check if you need more assurance but basically with voltmeter set for resistance, going from off to on should be a big difference, from few to many ohms. 
If you have a meter with a continuity setting...all the easier. You could probably take the switch off and to an auto mechanic to check real quick too.


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## Maverick (Feb 4, 2020)

I don't think you need the whole red knob, push pull thing, I think you just need the actual switch that it is wired to behind the red knob. It is really easy to get to once you remove the front cover. I just went out in the garage to see if I could get a number for you but now I don't recall where I put it....I am sure it I put it somewhere so I wouldn't forget where I put it.....

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Johnturner (Feb 8, 2020)

Thanks - will try testing the switch.
By the way - My son pointed out that if the red lights are on in the inverter the breaker is not the problem, Duh.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Maverick (Feb 8, 2020)

Johnturner said:


> By the way - My son pointed out that if the red lights are on in the inverter the breaker is not the problem, Duh.



I almost asked earlier in this thread If the lights were on. But that at least narrows down the diagnostics. I am still guessing it is the switch or a loose wire.


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## Nubsnstubs (Feb 9, 2020)

If the lights are on, it's more than likely a little dust causing the problem. That happened to my remote on the forward reverse switch. If you can pull the panel out of the lathe, turn it on and tap the stitch with a dowel or stick a couple times with the switch on. That might activate it. If not, keep trouble shooting it. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Johnturner (Feb 13, 2020)

Ordered parts -Will keep you in the loop.


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