# Finishing Stabilized Woods



## Molokai (Dec 27, 2013)

General question, write how, what type of finish?
I know it depends on what type of stabilization liquid is used but i read a lot of different opinions and just wanted to know what you use. I am mainly interested in knife handle finishing.


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## SENC (Dec 27, 2013)

Tom - I have used CA for a high gloss finish and pure tung oil for others. For obvious reasons, stabilized wood won't suck up as much tung oil, but remember the stabilizing resin only fills the air pockets between wood fibers, so those fibers can still accept oils. I use the same process I do for unstabilized wood: 
1- start with "cut" tung oil that is 25% oil and 75% solvent (I use a citrus solvent because my calls go in people's mouths, though it shouldn't really matter since the only purpose for the solvent is to dilute the oil and help penetration, and the solvent should flash off as it dries)
2 - dip/soak it or wipe it on liberally
3 - let it air dry for 30-45 minutes, then wipe off any excess surface oil that remains with a lint free wiping cloth (it has soaked up all it can for the moment and any remainder will inhibit drying)
4 - let it air dry another 18-24 hours
5 - repeat 1-4 with 50/50 mix
6- repeat 1-4 with 75oil/25solvent mix
7 - repeat 1-3 with 100% pure tung oil one to four times (I decide based on how much it is soaking in each time, but with stabilized wood I rarely do this more than once)
8 - let the tung oil cure by air-drying for 5-10 days

If I see any flaws after the first or 2nd tung oil application, I'll lightly sand after the 24 hour drying point, then blow off and/or lightly wipe down with acetone to remove sawdust and finger oil before the next application.

This leaves a very rich, satinny finish. If I want a little gloss, I buff with tripoli. More gloss, tripoli then white diamond. Deep gloss (not as deep as CA), tripoli, white diamond, and finish with carnauba wax.

I prefer tung oil with or without wax to CA, because it is less brittle and subject to dings and scratches and because it is easier to refinish. Just rewax or, if really bad, strip the wax and go back through the oiling process. Not much you can do with a scratched CA finish but sand it off and staet again. CA does have a great look, though.

Henry

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## Molokai (Dec 28, 2013)

Thanks for such a detail info. 
I read that you use lots of tripoli, white diamond polish. That is something i havent seen around here. 
The closest i bought is micro crystaline wax polish..


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## SENC (Dec 28, 2013)

Tom - try searching for buffing or polishing compound on amazon.com or yoir equivalent, if you can't find it locally. It comes in sticks like this picture, and is applied to a spinning buffing wheel (on a grinder or lathe). Tripoli is red. White diamond is, you guessed it, white.

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## ChrisK (Dec 29, 2013)

Tomislav,
The process described above by Henry is one of the best IMHO for your use. Another alternative on tung oil is cellulose sanding sealer before buffing as described by Henry. I use sanding sealer instead of oil when I want to avoid any darkening with some woods.

You can find the Beall buffing system in Europe (some links below) composed of a mounting device + buffing wheels + buffing sticks (Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba).
http://www.starbond-europa.de/product_info.php?products_id=1285
http://www.willyvanhoutte.be/en/catalog/show_cat/479

If you have no lathe you can find buffing wheels locally to adapt on a grinder and purchase only the buffing compounds.

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