# will epoxy resin solve this problem?



## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

I am planning a project where there will be numerous small irregular shaped sticks of wood rising up out of a base. I need something to hold each stick in place and I think just glue would look awful. I know nothing about epoxy resin other than what I've gathered in a few scans of internet articles and having seen it mentioned here on PF.

What I plan to do it to drill a 1/4" deep hole in the base for each stick with a each hole having a diameter that is big enough to contain the particular stick. the base will be somewhere around 6" by 8" and the sticks will be different sizes and going at different angles (but mostly upwards). I'm hoping that epoxy resin, poured carefully into each hole after the stick for that hole is in and supported, will provide solid long-term support for each stick.

Is epoxy resin a good choice or is there something better?

If epoxy resin is the way to go, can it be sucked up into a glue-dispensing syringe and inserted into the holes that way? That way I only need to support one or a few sticks at the same time.

An alternative that I'm considering is use a drop of glue on each of a few sticks at a time while they are supported and then do more, and so on until it's full and then just flood the base.

Comments? Suggestions?

Thanks.

Here's an INCREDIBLY rough sketch of the general idea, with an irregular base and only a few of the sticks shown


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## Mike1950 (Jul 23, 2021)

Glue would be easier.


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## eaglea1 (Jul 23, 2021)

Paul, yes epoxy resin would work well and you could do some colors with it as well. As Mike said some 
glue such as ca with an accelerator would also work good. I use many different types of resin and for a project
like this , I would probably go with my "Upstart Art Epoxy". Good luck

Reactions: Creative 1


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

Mike1950 said:


> Glue would be easier.





eaglea1 said:


> As Mike said some
> glue such as ca with an accelerator would also work good.


I would worry if I just glue to pieces to the base because some of them could be as little as 1/8" x 1/8" of end grain and I would not trust glue. Also, using holes allows easier facilitation of odd angles w/o having to cut the bottom of the base just right.


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

I'm finding this epoxy resin is very expensive. A HALF gallon each of glue/accelerator in the Upstart Art Epoxy lists at about $100. Wowzers !

By the way, is this stuff every used for as the finish on turned bowls?


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## Mike1950 (Jul 23, 2021)

So hole would be larger?


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

Mike1950 said:


> So hole would be larger?


Each hole will be slightly larger than the diameter of that particular stick. For the larger pieces I may nip off a corner here and there.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Jul 23, 2021)

phinds said:


> Each hole will be slightly larger than the diameter of that particular stick. For the larger pieces I may nip off a corner here and there.


epoxy

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | EyeCandy! 1


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## Mr. Peet (Jul 23, 2021)

I'm not following your project, but wondered, would simply using a thick piece of clear Plexiglas work or a piece of corian?


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## barry richardson (Jul 23, 2021)

I did something similar in the past, I made a berm around the top of the base with masking tape, then flooded the top with epoxy, then inserted the sticks, I used 1/2"masking tape strung amongst the top of the sticks to hold them in the position I wanted.


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> I'm not following your project, but wondered, would simply using a thick piece of clear Plexiglas work or a piece of corian?


No, not at all. I must not be explaining it clearly.


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

barry richardson said:


> I did something similar in the past, I made a berm around the top of the base with masking tape, then flooded the top with epoxy, then inserted the sticks, I used 1/2"masking tape strung amongst the top of the sticks to hold them in the position I wanted.


Yeah, that's the alternative I mentioned although I had not thought of the masking tape idea, which I really like. That makes that altenative more attractive. Thanks.


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## 2feathers Creative Making (Jul 23, 2021)

phinds said:


> I am planning a project where there will be numerous small irregular shaped sticks of wood rising up out of a base. I need something to hold each stick in place and I think just glue would look awful. I know nothing about epoxy resin other than what I've gathered in a few scans of internet articles and having seen it mentioned here on PF.
> 
> What I plan to do it to drill a 1/4" deep hole in the base for each stick with a each hole having a diameter that is big enough to contain the particular stick. the base will be somewhere around 6" by 8" and the sticks will be different sizes and going at different angles (but mostly upwards). I'm hoping that epoxy resin, poured carefully into each hole after the stick for that hole is in and supported, will provide solid long-term support for each stick.
> 
> ...


Lowes and many other home improvement stores sell a 5 to 6 dollar syringe of 5 minute epoxy that has a premixed tip that allows you to insert the tip in a hole, depress the plunger and dispense a small quantity of epoxy that is already mixed and ready to go. Only thing I have found is you need all holes ready because they often only have the one tip and 5 minutes into the project, you are done squeezing epoxy!
I have used this product for trim repairs and such like for years now. The putty type epoxy that you merely knead to a uniform color is also an option. It wont ooze out and run across your base if you put too much in the hole.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

2feathers Creative Making said:


> Lowes and many other home improvement stores sell a 5 to 6 dollar syringe of 5 minute epoxy that has a premixed tip that allows you to insert the tip in a hole, depress the plunger and dispense a small quantity of epoxy that is already mixed and ready to go.


Some of the reviews say the mixing doesn't work all that well with small amounts and if you don't stir it, it won't work. Clearly that would not work for me. I take it you have not had that experience?


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## 2feathers Creative Making (Jul 23, 2021)

I have never had a fail. I do usually push out the first 1/4 to half inch squirr onto a waste paper towel to be sure it is fully mixed


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## phinds (Jul 23, 2021)

2feathers Creative Making said:


> I have never had a fail. I do usually push out the first 1/4 to half inch squirr onto a waste paper towel to be sure it is fully mixed


Thanks, good info. Does it dry clear? What brand is it?


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## Wildthings (Jul 23, 2021)

I do this all the time in my habitat work. I use the 5 minute epoxy in what ever color(clear, grey black etc) they have. Of course afterward I'm going to glue on a dirt layer and it will hide the junction. Squirt it on a scrap of cardboard or whatever and mix it well, drip it down the hole and insert stick. Hold stick or prop stick until it kicks. You can also add different color to one side before mixing

a quick google


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## phinds (Jul 24, 2021)

Wildthings said:


> I do this all the time in my habitat work. I use the 5 minute epoxy in what ever color(clear, grey black etc) they have. Of course afterward I'm going to glue on a dirt layer and it will hide the junction. Squirt it on a scrap of cardboard or whatever and mix it well, drip it down the hole and insert stick. Hold stick or prop stick until it kicks. You can also add different color to one side before mixing


Right. I was hoping to avoid the "dripping" and be able to just squirt it directly in the hole premixed. If I understand correctly, that's what @2feathers Creative Making does. That's why I asked him for the specific brand. I did do a Google and saw what you saw.


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## 2feathers Creative Making (Jul 24, 2021)

Loctite clear is what I use. And yes it does dry clear








Loctite Epoxy Instant Mix 5 Minute from Loctite Adhesives


Direct application with no measuring or mixing via self-mixing nozzles (included). 5-min. set.




www.loctiteproducts.com




This is the product I bought last. I think that was last friday to be exact. Am planning to buy more this weekend for a household repair for one of Her projects. A little painted doll crib that looks like a car ran over it. She is convinced that I can fix it if I really wanted to... enter fast setting epoxy and duct tape clamping system

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## Wildthings (Jul 24, 2021)

phinds said:


> Right. I was hoping to avoid the "dripping" and be able to just squirt it directly in the hole premixed. If I understand correctly, that's what @2feathers Creative Making does. That's why I asked him for the specific brand. I did do a Google and saw what you saw.


I just don't trust the premixing tips to do the job well enough

Reactions: Agree 2


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## DLJeffs (Jul 24, 2021)

I agree with Barry about mixing. It's the most common thing that screws up an epoxy job. If you don't get the parts measured equally or don't get them well and thoroughly mixed you end up with a tacky surface that has to be dealt with afterwards.

One thing to consider is viscosity. Epoxies come in various viscosities and you can use that to your advantage. If you want the epoxy to flow easily (e.g. via a syringe) you would want one that is less viscous. Being less viscous means it'll also flow easily which also means it'll go where ever gravity will allow. So that means you might have to build containment around your pours if you don't want epoxy to get beyond your attachment points. But that flowability can also work in your favor because it will self -level and if you leave it alone once it's in place, you get a nice clean, level surface. NOTE: In my limited experience, most epoxies shrink a little as they cure so I usually over fill the hole a little, let it round up just enough so it won't run out. I use a model building epoxy from Hobby Lobby for coating balsa poppers because it is low viscosity and results in a very thin coat (weight is a concern on balsa wood poppers). I tried the two part Durco type epoxy and they're way too thick. I also use G/Flex marine epoxy from West Marine, it's slightly more viscous than the hobby lobby epoxy but comes in slightly larger containers for bigger jobs. Flex Coat rod wrapping epoxy is another low viscosity epoxy that flows easily.

I think you can thin most epoxies with xylene or toluol but I haven't done that much. Thinning also makes it cure faster so you have less working time. If you go this route I'd recommend a couple small test batches carefully measuring how much thinning agent you add and checking cure rate before using it on your project.

So if your wooden branches are irregular shaped at the point they insert into the base, and you'll be drilling a circular hole to glue them into, the less viscous epoxy would be the way to go so it flows all around the branch, fills the space and self levels into a nice polished surface. You can mix sawdust into the epoxy so it more closely color matches your base wood but the final surface will be rougher and you'll need to sand it and finish it along with the base. Most epoxies result in 10-20 ton bond strength so I'm pretty sure the wood will break before the epoxy bond.


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