# Table saw insert



## Karda (Aug 6, 2021)

Hi, I want to start segmented turning and am looking at what I need to do and what i have. My table saw is not that good but I hope good enough but one deficiency is a zero clearance insert can't be made for it. Is there a safe way to make the wedge that directs the cut segment away from the blade. Here is a picture of my insert..


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## Tony (Aug 6, 2021)

Mike, what I did was make a new insert out of wood and glued the diverter wedge to it. Get a piece of wood to fit the opening, put your fence close enough to hold it down, then bring your blade up through it to get the zero clearance. Then you'll know where to put that wedge.

Reactions: Useful 1


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## Karda (Aug 6, 2021)

there is no support for one and know way to fasten it down


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## Tony (Aug 6, 2021)

How does the metal one attach?


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## Karda (Aug 6, 2021)

it is a snap fit I posted a pic of it


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Aug 6, 2021)

Should have screws holding it on.


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## Karda (Aug 6, 2021)

this is a cheap craftsman what do you expect, on the left side there is no place to put a screw


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## ripjack13 (Aug 6, 2021)

If you have the tools to do so....and the time to do it. This will take some time and effort to do, but certainly worth it.
Drill 2 holes and counter sink them on each short side to accept a machine screw and nut underneath. Make a support from some flat stock aluminum for each side (to hold the new throat insert you make using some birch plywood.) And screw it under the top. It looks like it could stick out about an inch into the opening. So maybe a 3 or 4 inch long piece will work. That will give you room to drill into the top to mount it.
A jigsaw is good for the corners of the insert, and cutting the opening for the riving unit behind the blade. You'll need to remove it to raise the saw blade through the ply after its installed. after the blade has cut the opening, then you can jigsaw the opening for the riving unit and then reinstall it. You'll want to make a couple of inserts at the same time for future use.
Then on one them you can glue the diverter to it. The others you can set aside for when you need to replace it.
Also, the new inserts will need to be screwed down with a machine screw to the flat stock aluminum.
That should work for ya...


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## ripjack13 (Aug 6, 2021)




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## Karda (Aug 6, 2021)

yea that could work, how many screw to hold down the insert 1 or 2 could I thread the aluminum plat instead of nuts


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## T. Ben (Aug 7, 2021)

What are these for?


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## Karda (Aug 7, 2021)

those are to adjust the elevation of the insert, they are quite small about #4

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## duncsuss (Aug 7, 2021)

Why not make a sled? Wouldn't that provide the functionality of a zero clearance insert?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Sprung (Aug 7, 2021)

I agree with Duncan - the easiest way to accomplish zero clearance on your saw will be with a sled.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 7, 2021)

whenever I use my slideboards, I never leave the insert in, unless I'm too lazy to pull it out. So, make a slideboard and call it a day. they are very easy, and will last a long time if not abused. One runner is all you really need for what you are wanting to use it for. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Karda (Aug 7, 2021)

i agree, the only reason for the insert is a way to have a diverter wedge. with a sled like a crosscut sled an insert would not be needed. With this type of sled a different type of stop would be need and I haven't figured that out yet. I am trying to figure out if I can do segmented turning, I'm not sure I can. i have watched many videos about it and the math involved is way beyond what i can do


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## Tony (Aug 7, 2021)

__





Wedgies






www.segeasy.com





This is the system I use, works great for me.


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## duncsuss (Aug 7, 2021)

Tony said:


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Just have to extend the base board so it spans both side of the saw blade, and add a "fence" front and back so it maintains stiffness (as in, a block of wood taller than the saw blade that attaches to the base board both sides of the kerf)


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## Karda (Aug 7, 2021)

how do you make the stop


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## duncsuss (Aug 7, 2021)

Karda said:


> how do you make the stop


I'm not sure what you are asking, but if you mean the two angled fences that you rest the workpiece against so you can saw segments to the correct angles ... well, I'd probably just screw them to the sled base board the first time through (it would mean all your rings have the same number of segments, but it will get you started.)

Same thing for stop blocks - they could be screwed down for the first one, but something like 2 pieces of T-track would let you make stop blocks you could slide around to reposition as needed.


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## ripjack13 (Aug 7, 2021)

Karda said:


> yea that could work, how many screw to hold down the insert 1 or 2 could I thread the aluminum plat instead of nuts


I think one would be sufficient. But 2 may be better if you feel the need to.
Tapping the holes is good idea too.


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## Karda (Aug 8, 2021)

the block i am referring to is the one before the blade that limits the size of the segment so each one is identical to the others


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