# 1st log with home built cms



## DavidDobbs (Sep 8, 2012)

[attachment=10398][attachment=10397]Here are a couple pics of the 1st log I sawed

It is a fresh/green Pecan that the tree guys dropped off

Its all home made in a couple hours

On my MS650 with a 36" bar


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 8, 2012)

Let the addiction begin!


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## DavidDobbs (Sep 8, 2012)

I have had the wood addiction for a little
over 40yrs. I am soon to be 52 started working
With my Father about 10 or 11 in his woodworking
Shop.

This part is new to me tho. Mostly a turner but have
100's of acres of woods to cut dead fall out of.
So I thought I would build a CSM.


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## HomeBody (Sep 10, 2012)

Could you show some more pics of your homemade jig? Gary


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## DavidDobbs (Sep 10, 2012)

HomeBody said:


> Could you show some more pics of your homemade jig? Gary



Gary

I will get some pictures taken

Dave


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## Mandolin (Sep 16, 2012)

I have a question about using a chainsawmill. If you are sawing a reasonably hard log like pecan or oak, how often do you have to re-sharpen your chain? I've never used or even been around a chainsaw mill. Do you get better service out of "ripping" chains or do you use a regular chain? The only time I've ever ripped a log with a chainsaw is when the log is to big for my mill and I have to shave some off the sides. I think often about getting a mill attachment for my saw to cut down big logs to fit my mill.


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## DavidDobbs (Sep 16, 2012)

I have used just regular chains so far. filed at 30

Yesterday I sawed 4 logs that were 20" to 25". On the last one the chain seem to be getting dull so I stopped an filed it. b
But what I know is very limited as I have only had it a couple weeks.

Dave


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 17, 2012)

Mandolin said:


> I have a question about using a chainsawmill. If you are sawing a reasonably hard log like pecan or oak, how often do you have to re-sharpen your chain? I've never used or even been around a chainsaw mill. Do you get better service out of "ripping" chains or do you use a regular chain? The only time I've ever ripped a log with a chainsaw is when the log is to big for my mill and I have to shave some off the sides. I think often about getting a mill attachment for my saw to cut down big logs to fit my mill.


Read through some of the threads in the milling section, we have had many discussions on this topic. You will find a lot of feed back from myself and many others, good information. There is not any one way to do it, it seems each person has their own way of doing things, kind of a what works for me thing.


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## kpantherpro (Oct 4, 2012)

check out the thread "addicted to milling...again" I think that's the one greg and some others started talking about angles, rakers, and chain, If i'm not mistaken greg does buy his ripping chain but it is a form of skip chain, i normally just use a stock full chisel skip chain, resharpened to the angle i need it, i don't mill as much as greg, lucky dog.... but hopefully i'll get some more time in the near future, got some oaks need to come down, normally i will touch up the chain after every few passes, but some say they'll go every 2-4 tanks of gas depending on what they're cutting, some simple rules to milling if you can follow them will help you out, always mill downhill if you can, let gravity help you,once you get the chain set proper you'll find your holding the mill back slightly rather than pushing through, it's easier to hold the saw back then to push through, and if your pushing hard something is definately wrong, use an auxillary oiler, even on the smaller stuff, on the slabber's like the alaskan's or panthermill2's etc. get them up to a comfortable working height, preferably in the "strike zone", have plenty of handholds for these mills as well. invest in a peavey/cant hook it'll save you a blown gasket if you know what I mean :teethlaugh:


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 4, 2012)

I used to mill logs at the same location mostly, so I found a long 8 or 10 foot pallet built from 4x4's and made 2' legs for it to raise it up off the ground. I then bolted 4 6x6's about 6 or 8 feet long to the raised platform for long loading ramps. two people could roll even the larges logs up the ramps with cant hooks, my wife has helped me do it. Now I am standing upright at about breast height and milling is easy peasy and life is good. A couple of hours building a platform is sure worth it to get off your knee's! Over build the platform as it is going to hold a lot of weight, thousands of pounds most times. Now with the platform you bring the logs to the platform site, for really big logs that I cannot transport I go commando and carry the mill to the log and mill on my knee's.


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## DavidDobbs (Oct 14, 2012)

[attachment=12078][attachment=12077][attachment=12076]few more pics for Gary


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 14, 2012)

Joe Rebuild said:


> DavidDobbs said:
> 
> 
> > few more pics for Gary
> ...


I would assume blocks of steel welded to the bottom of the clamps, these clamp the bar and allow clearance for the chain. My granberg alaskan is the same. Tightening the bolts evenly clamps the bar.


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 14, 2012)

Joe Rebuild said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> > Joe Rebuild said:
> ...


The cool thing about this style is that it holds tight but does not mar the bar, you do have to remove the whole thing to remove the chain though, but it's only four bolts. If I was to guess at the thickness of the steel plates I would say about 3/16", one on top and one on bottom, each end.


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## DavidDobbs (Oct 16, 2012)

yes there is flat stock on both the top an bottom.

Just a bit smaller than the tube on the solid part of the bar.

3/8 in from top an bottom edge of the bar


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