# Stabilizing cast blanks



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 20, 2015)

I got my cholla pot blank from @Final Strut in today, and I have a few blanks that @Gixxerjoe04 cast that I told him I'd stabikize... But I wanted some reassurance before diving in to it.

My biggest concern is baking the blanks. Is there any certain process to follow to prevent the resin from becoming brittle or changing shape?


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## Final Strut (Mar 20, 2015)

I am pretty sure @NYWoodturner has stabilized some cast pieces. Maybe he can chime in on this. I have been resistant to stabilize after casting because of the same concerns you have.


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## Schroedc (Mar 20, 2015)

I'll be interested to see what folks have to say, I always thought you were supposed to stabilize first?


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## Final Strut (Mar 20, 2015)

Schroedc said:


> I'll be interested to see what folks have to say, I always thought you were supposed to stabilize first?


That is what I have always thought as well. I have cast a few pieces that I have stabilized first and the only issue with doing it that way is trying to clean up the residuals in any of the voids.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 20, 2015)

Yeah, some people recommend doing it after, some before. The big reason most don't want to do it before is because of the mess they have to tediously clean. 

There's obviously a way to do it without having a negative effect, just don't want to learn the hard way haha.

Scott, do you use alumalite or PR?


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## Final Strut (Mar 20, 2015)

JR Custom Calls said:


> Yeah, some people recommend doing it after, some before. The big reason most don't want to do it before is because of the mess they have to tediously clean.
> 
> There's obviously a way to do it without having a negative effect, just don't want to learn the hard way haha.
> 
> Scott, do you use alumalite or PR?


I use both but the cholla blanks are alumilite.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Mar 20, 2015)

I'd say practice with those pen blanks and just see what happens haha, not much resin will be lost if it does screw up. What temperature do you heat it to when you bake it?


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 20, 2015)

Gixxerjoe04 said:


> I'd say practice with those pen blanks and just see what happens haha, not much resin will be lost if it does screw up. What temperature do you heat it to when you bake it?


Id rather not screw them up if I can avoid it... even if they are kind of intended as practice pieces.

The curing process is done at 200. Normally I bake them at 220 overnight before I stabilize, but I'm not sure if I want to risk two cycles in the oven.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Mar 20, 2015)

Was going to call but checked their website, temperature resistance, 140 degrees, son of a biscuit 
http://www.alumilite.com/store/p/933-Alumilite-Clear.aspx


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## jetcn1 (Mar 20, 2015)

You need to stabilize first . If you cure the burls pcs correctly there is little to no bleed out . I have cast about 150 call blanks this winter with maple burl and little to no scraping is required after curing .


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 20, 2015)

Curtis just confirmed that stabilizing after casting is perfectly fine. So I've got a test piece cooling off at the moment and I'll turn it later to give myself some reassurance


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 21, 2015)

Well, I got it stabilized and turned. Didn't need to stay under vacuum long at all, stopped bubbling After about an hour. Turned like a dream. Looking forward to wrapping up a few others so I can do a final sanding and polish this one up

Reactions: EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 3


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## TMAC (Mar 21, 2015)

What temperature did you use to cure the resin?


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 21, 2015)

TMAC said:


> What temperature did you use to cure the resin?


200 for about 3 hours

Reactions: Informative 1


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 21, 2015)

Sorry - I didn't see this before. Jonathan is right - there are strong opinions on both sides of the fence - to cast or stabilize first. I cast then stabilize. Heat is the nemesis and potential pitfall for the casting. Resins cure at different temps depending on the brand, but I add time and lower the temp to compensate. 200 is the hottest I have ever cured a resin on a cast pice. 190 is the lowest. Alumilite seems to perform better for this than PR.

Thats a damned good looking call Jonathan!


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## TMAC (Mar 21, 2015)

jetcn1 said:


> You need to stabilize first . If you cure the burls pcs correctly there is little to no bleed out . I have cast about 150 call blanks this winter with maple burl and little to no scraping is required after curing . View attachment 74241


What process do you use to cure your stabilized pieces?


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## ironman123 (Mar 21, 2015)

WOW Jonathan. That is going to be hard to beat when it is all finished I bet.

Reactions: Agree 1


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