# Need Ideas



## HomeBody (Oct 9, 2013)

I think I have a good idea but need folks smarter than me to get it off the ground. Here is a pic of my M7 Logosol, set up full size for 16' logs. You can cut as wide as your chainsaw bar.
[attachment=32431]


Here is the same mill reconfigured into the more compact version. Max log length is 8'. The extra half of the rail is in the foreground.[attachment=32432]


I cut walnut crotches mainly and my 28" bar just isn't long enough for the big ones. It ain't even long enough for the medium ones. So, I got to thinking.
If I could mount the extra rail on the other side at exactly the same height and pitch I should be able to cut a 48" crotch in 2 cuts from opposite sides and directions with my 28" bar. The rails don't move up and down. They are stationary. The log bed moves up and down. Even if the bars don't line up exactly, I'm cutting 11/4 for gunstocks and have a little leeway as to thickness.
[attachment=32433]
[attachment=32434]


The extra rail would have to be removable to be able to load the wood. Buying extra legs from Logosol would be expensive, but maybe aluminum from the salvage yard and make some mounts? 

I just looked at the Steve Cross bandsaw again and thought...Sheesh! This job would be small potatoes for him. 

Your thoughts? Gary


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## Cross Sawmill (Oct 10, 2013)

HomeBody said:


> I think I have a good idea but need folks smarter than me to get it off the ground. Here is a pic of my M7 Logosol, set up full size for 16' logs. You can cut as wide as your chainsaw bar.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Do You have the log bed for the other track section? Could it be modified to fit on the other side with pins or bolts? aka SuperAX


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## SDB777 (Oct 10, 2013)

I'm always looking for an excuse to buy longer bars for my chainsaws.....

My initial thoughts are alignment. No matter what is done the bar will probably flex at some point due to a knot, or whatever, and then the two points won't meet up in the middle.

How wide of a piece of timber would you be milling?
What size Stihl saw are you running there?



Scott (my two cents aren't very speedy anymore) B


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## jimmyjames (Oct 10, 2013)

A longer bar wouldn't work, the end of the bar wouldn't be supported and it would droop, unless you found a way to support the end of the bar, cutting from both sides would yield a cut thaats jot flat but ifyou have a way to surface a large amount of material or further process the blanks on a band saw to flatten them in blank form it shouldn't be a problem


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## HomeBody (Oct 12, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> I'm always looking for an excuse to buy longer bars for my chainsaws.....
> 
> My initial thoughts are alignment. No matter what is done the bar will probably flex at some point due to a knot, or whatever, and then the two points won't meet up in the middle.
> 
> ...



My goal is to slab large walnut crotches. Short but wide. I'm running a Stihl 660 with a 28" bar. I thought about going to a 36" bar but that still wouldn't give me the reach I need. Gary


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## HomeBody (Oct 12, 2013)

Cross Sawmill said:


> Do You have the log bed for the other track section? Could it be modified to fit on the other side with pins or bolts? aka SuperAX



Greetings from Clayton, GA Mr. Cross! (I'm on vacation this week)

No, on a wide crotch I'd have to support the side not on the log bed from underneath. The crotch would have to be re-shimmed on every cut. It would take longer but I'm just a hobbiest and not in any hurry.

I'm milling for gunstocks and normally cut 11/4. I could cut the slabs 12/4 which would allow me some extra to plane out any bar tip dips. Gary


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## HomeBody (Mar 23, 2014)

I think I have this thing figured out. I ended up buying two long legs from logosol. Mounted the extra rail to the new legs and fastened all 6 feet down to 2X8's. I ran braces from the new rail to the short legs. I should be able to cut a 46 1/2" wide crotch. This won't cut a 46" wide log, only about 24" max. on the log but it will enable me to cut the wide crotches without losing the width of the side branches. I can get a 24" cut now and I overlapped the bar end by 1"-2". I'll be trying it this week if I can get my neighbor to bring his Kubota over and load a log for me. Will it work? Your thoughts? Gary


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 23, 2014)

My concern would be the kick back of the bar tip. Burying the tip of the bar in a log is where the potential for kick back exist. The tip of the chainsaw bar is the cause of most kickbacks. Plunge cuts and boring cuts can be done but they require great skill and a firm grip on the saw and an understanding of what is going on at the tip. If you start to get chatter when cutting that will be the bar tip wanting to climb. It might work I'm just saying to use caution for safety's sake.
The next thing I wonder about is how solid is the second attachment that you added? Is it very ridgid? Can you rock it with your hands? Might need a little more bracing if you can wiggle or rock it. 
Keep us posted, this is an interesting set up. It will be fun to watch and hear what the pro's and cons are.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Dennis Ford (Mar 23, 2014)

I think it will work pretty well. Loading the log and set-up will be somewhat of a pain but the final result will be worth some bother. I would consider replacing the 2 x 8s with 4 x 6s unless you are working on a really good surface.

Reactions: Like 1


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