# Stabilizing how to



## Texasstate (Dec 27, 2017)

Can someone post on how to stabilize Burl maple/splayed maple with ca glue?

If the pieces are bigger than needed to I get them to the size I want them stabilize or do I stabilize then cut to size ?


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## Schroedc (Dec 27, 2017)

Texasstate said:


> Can someone post on how to stabilize Burl maple/splayed maple with ca glue?
> 
> If the pieces are bigger than needed to I get them to the size I want them stabilize or do I stabilize then cut to size ?



What are you using them for? I generally like to get them close to final dimension so I don't waste time stabilizing materiel I'm taking off. For pens/calls and such, a vacuum stabilization with cactus juice or a similar resin is the way to go if you can. Otherwise, it's really just getting it down close to your finished size, flood with thin CA and let it soak in and then taking finish cuts. depending on the penetration, you may need to do it a couple times during your final cuts and sanding/finishing. Also- good ventilation and a respirator is a must or you can develop respiratory issues, CA isn't nice to your lungs


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

I use thin CA- pretty much what Colin says above. I did all the machining on this box and then used CA before I put finish on. I find using spalted maple has some challenges but also has rewards.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 4


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## Texasstate (Dec 27, 2017)

Are there any issues working the material that is quite brittle ?

Reactions: Like 1


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## Texasstate (Dec 27, 2017)

Mike you cut the covers on that box prior to stabilizing?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

Texasstate said:


> Mike you cut the covers on that box prior to stabilizing?



I build box and lid before CA. Some spalted pieces are harder some softer. Some I only use for lids. This box is a combo of quite hard and very soft- it did present challenges. but the finished effect was worth it

Reactions: Like 2


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

Texasstate said:


> Are there any issues working the material that is quite brittle ?



There is a minwax hardener product - I have not used it though. You can also use thinned wood glue.


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## Schroedc (Dec 27, 2017)

I've used the Minwax wood hardener. it does a pretty decent job BUT I find it works best if you can soak the piece for an hour or two and then let dry anywhere from a week to 2 weeks to make sure all the solvents are out of the inside, I had a couple experiences where I'd get into a piece after only a couple days drying after a good soak and find unhardened liquid.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Texasstate (Dec 27, 2017)

The wood I got from you is beautiful
Thanks so much

Do you regularly have wood on hand?
I am always looking for unusual pieces


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

Yep, i always have some wild wood.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## rocky1 (Dec 27, 2017)

SOME???

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> SOME???


A little

Reactions: Funny 1


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## rocky1 (Dec 27, 2017)

A little???

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 3


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## Mike1950 (Dec 27, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> A little???


I think this may indicate a failure to communicate. Size is relative.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## rocky1 (Dec 28, 2017)

And, quantity! 

Most of us have "a little" burl wood in the shop.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Mike1950 (Dec 28, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> And, quantity!
> 
> Most of us have "a little" burl wood in the shop.



so do I have alittle- and a little in the shed hooked to shop and a little in the kiln- and a little in the other 2 sheds and then there are some pallets that are covered with a little burl out in the yard. What is your point!! Dern floridians- got to be the salt air does somethin to them....

Reactions: Funny 1


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## CWS (Dec 28, 2017)

I have never been disappointed in any wood I have gotten from @Mike1950. It is always as good as advertised or better.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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