# Magical Buttonwood guitar wood stash.



## Blueglass (Mar 14, 2017)

Probably a couple tops worth and some fingerboards. Check out how tight the curl is on the fingerboard piece.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 14 | Way Cool 3


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## DKMD (Mar 14, 2017)

That's stuff is gorgeous!

Reactions: Agree 3


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## Tony (Mar 14, 2017)

That is going to be incredible!


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## barry richardson (Mar 14, 2017)

Nice looking stuff! And you'll be the first guy on your block with a buttonwood guitar...

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blueglass (Apr 20, 2017)

I've been slowly hand planing them flat and wow are they hard. It is not always easy not to cuss on this family friendly site.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## Jeff M. (Feb 7, 2018)

Good looking wood there Les


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## Blueglass (Feb 16, 2018)

Thanks I should have much more as soon as I can get back down to mill it.


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Feb 16, 2018)

Les will you have any of the curly stuff for pot blanks maybe?


Rodney


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## Blueglass (Feb 16, 2018)

Bigdrowdy1 said:


> Les will you have any of the curly stuff for pot blanks maybe?
> 
> 
> Rodney


I won't know untill I cut it up. I can tell there is siome curl, but I'm guessing it will be more curl and swirl.


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Feb 16, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> I won't know untill I cut it up. I can tell there is siome curl, but I'm guessing it will be more curl and swirl.



Keep me in mind if you do. 
Thanks 


Rodney


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 16, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> I won't know untill I cut it up. I can tell there is siome curl, but I'm guessing it will be more curl and swirl.



_Conocarpus erectus_....have some, no curly samples...


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## Jeff M. (Feb 17, 2018)

@Blueglass sent that pdf your way, as well as a ton of lutherie information. some on luthier tools and some on making guitars, and on book about how to make a living as a luthier and run your business. all good stuff. take the time to read through it. and Enjoy Bud!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 17, 2018)

The book-match set has gorgeous colors and I like the fact that the variegation and grain forms the lower bout of a guitar! I can see a double cut (double horns) and a single cut-away from that. You can do a book-match cap and book-match cap the back too with your own body center core. The quartered figured piece would compliment that top nicely. Maybe you can find some Hawaiian mango or Hawaiian koa or Osage orange to go with it?

Is this a medium density or high density hardwood?

Arn


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## Blueglass (Feb 17, 2018)

Very high density! The bottom of the bookmatched sets has become this.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 4 | Way Cool 2


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## Blueglass (Feb 17, 2018)

Mr. Peet said:


> _Conocarpus erectus_....have some, no curly samples...


Yes there is a pretty good chance I will. I have loads to have milled but don't know when I can get to it.


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 17, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> Yes there is a pretty good chance I will. I have loads to have milled but don't know when I can get to it.



Understandable, hey dig that parrot's head on the bottom piece on the backside. The eye is up by the seem, on the left side...


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## Blueglass (Feb 17, 2018)

Mr. Peet said:


> Understandable, hey dig that parrot's head on the bottom piece on the backside. The eye is up by the seem, on the left side...


How big do you need pieces for samples?


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 17, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> How big do you need pieces for samples?



Les, they finish at 3" x 6" x 1/2" thick. Three pieces fit a small flat rate box well and 11 fit the padded bag. Doesn't matter to me if it is one or many, or a block I need to mill down myself, just let me know what you want and we will go from there. Thanks...


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## Blueglass (Feb 18, 2018)

I don't think I have anything 3" wide that I cut up yesterday butI'll keep it in mind. I need to get some boxes out to a number of people at some point soon.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 19, 2018)

Very nice that you put the control cavity in the back to let the top flow without interruption. 

Are you doing a synchronize vibrato bridge or a fixed bridge? 

Looking forward to see what kind of pickup configurations you come up with and the neck choice!

I would be interested what the raw weight of the body is once you route the pickup cavity, bridge, controls, etc.


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

Hardtail Strat bridge, 2 Seymour Duncan P-rails. I did some weight relief under the top but not too much. I'm guessing 7-8lb range but that is a guess. I have the neck mostly ready but am waiting on a fret slot cutting blade. 25 1/2" scale It has a reverse headstock not so much for looks but for string tension. My headstock shape came from a chip getting yanked off by the router. I was planning a normal strat but when I got done sanding I really liked how it came out, somewhere between strat and tele. Most of the hardware I bought used off ebay and reverb because I really want to finish this and play it and that is what I could afford right now. I'm really thinking about setting it up with Robert Fripp's New Standard tuning as I've always tuned standard and would like to see if it brings out anything new creatively. It will also force me to relearn my modes a whole new way.

The P-rails are going to be wired to a 5 way super switch so I can get either the Humbucking or P-90 of each pickup I don't care much about the regular single coil part.


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

Oh scarf joint for am angled headstock and an angle in the neck pocket. There are things I like about Gibson and Fender so I'm combining what I like about both.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> Hardtail Strat bridge, 2 Seymour Duncan P-rails. I did some weight relief under the top but not too much. I'm guessing 7-8lb range but that is a guess. I have the neck mostly ready but am waiting on a fret slot cutting blade. 25 1/2" scale It has a reverse headstock not so much for looks but for string tension. My headstock shape came from a chip getting yanked off by the router. I was planning a normal strat but when I got done sanding I really liked how it came out, somewhere between strat and tele. Most of the hardware I bought used off ebay and reverb because I really want to finish this and play it and that is what I could afford right now. I'm really thinking about setting it up with Robert Fripp's New Standard tuning as I've always tuned standard and would like to see if it brings out anything new creatively. It will also force me to relearn my modes a whole new way.
> 
> The P-rails are going to be wired to a 5 way super switch so I can get either the Humbucking or P-90 of each pickup I don't care much about the regular single coil part.



The SD P-rails has an interesting tone specs. that is darn cool as it is a “hybrid”. I would imagine it would have a p-90 ish compromised between single coils and PAF’s humbucker. I have several Seymour Duncan PAF’s and they are pretty nice and warm, but polite-the DiMarzio versions has a little more “zing” and a hair more when you push it. I played everything’s else from single coils, PAF’s, lipstick pickups, P-90’s, Firebird pups and even an EMG. I never tried it, but I would imagine you can get a wide spectrum of sounds. I like the super switch.  I would be interested of what you think of the pickups. 

So, this a a 6 in-line with a straight string pull, but a reverse headstock ala Jimi H. configuration? 

The hardtail strat bridge- vintage sandles or modern saddles?

There are several builders who actually build a hybrid strat and Tele body shape and electronics layout- some have Tele bridge and some has a floating vibrato bridge. I’ve seen configurations where the Tele bridge is implemented, then a strat middle single coil and a strat neck with a 5 way lever switch. Scale length is 25.5”.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> Oh scarf joint for am angled headstock and an angle in the neck pocket. There are things I like about Gibson and Fender so I'm combining what I like about both.





Blueglass said:


> Oh scarf joint for am angled headstock and an angle in the neck pocket. There are things I like about Gibson and Fender so I'm combining what I like about both.



So you have a G*bson headstock angle of 17 degrees (modern 14 degrees) and a pocket angle (and tenon) of 3-4 degrees?


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

13 degrees on the headstock, Prs ish. From what I have read about the P-rails the humbucker has a Pearly Gates midrange grind which is what I love! I got them used for $120 for the set. They look a little rough but since it is for me as long as they sound good, I'm happy.

Hard tail has modern saddles 2 3/16 spacing I like wide. I hybrid pic a lot.

I love Firebird pickups.

Pocket is 3 degrees, I'm starting to think I may have to skim it or the tenon to make the angle shallower to work with the bridge, I left a little extra meat on the neck just in case. I'll see once it arrives. Hopefully today. Fret slotting blade got sent today, I so want to get the neck done. It is the part I'm most nervous about. Double action Stewmac trussrod already installed.


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> 13 degrees on the headstock, Prs ish. From what I have read about the P-rails the humbucker has a Pearly Gates midrange grind which is what I love! I got them used for $120 for the set. They look a little rough but since it is for me as long as they sound good, I'm happy.
> 
> Hard tail has modern saddles 2 3/16 spacing I like wide. I hybrid pic a lot.
> 
> ...



Who doesn’t like the “Reverends Pearl Gates” tone? So big sounding has that, midrange sizzle and the pinch harmonics really sings.

I love, love, love the Firebird pickups! If it weren’t for the neck dive on the Firebird, I could get along with it better.

I prefer wider spacing too so you don’t feel like the low e and the high e is falling off the way side and it doesn’t feel cramp when you are chording on the lower registers.

I am actually trying to figure out how you are going to work out the bridge saddle as it will only rise a certain amount and if you max it up, would the action be on the higher side? I don’t know how to compensate with the heel angle and the headstock angle at 13 degrees. I played several scarf joint Ibanez (well back in the late 80’s) with a headstock angle that has no angle on the heel that had a Floyd- don’t remember if the Floyd Rose rise was higher.

I was told the intonation is better when you use the fret slotting table saw blade (because it is cleaner and more precise) versus the old school fret slotting miter box along with a fretting saw.


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## Tom Smart (Feb 20, 2018)

Boy, I'm glad you guys know what you are talking about, because I have no clue. But I enjoyed reading it. 

I just like to listen to whatever comes out of what you make.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4 | Sincere 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

I got a great deal on the fret slotting blade. THe guy is a machinist and started doing his on an end mill with blind fret ends so it is kind of like the natural freat board edges are the binding. Dude is good. I HATE FLoyd Rose trems, I'm not a trem fan at all. I may end up having to use a Tune O Matic but I think I can make my neck angle shallower and make it work. I will see.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

When I was in the Navy with no bills or responsibilities I bought a 94' PRS Custom 24 so I have a lot to measure up too. I could never afford it today!


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> I got a great deal on the fret slotting blade. THe guy is a machinist and started doing his on an end mill with blind fret ends so it is kind of like the natural freat board edges are the binding. Dude is good. I HATE FLoyd Rose trems, I'm not a trem fan at all. I may end up having to use a Tune O Matic but I think I can make my neck angle shallower and make it work. I will see.



I do like the detail on the fretwire where the tang is concealed- I’ve seen some builders do it with a CNC. Floyd rose do date themselves and they are chunky (I did say I used it in the 80’s)- though they are fairly smooth as you can push down and pull back. I don’t have any Floyd’s. Most of the bridges that I have are diverse from TOM, Nashville type bridges, Mann made vibrato bridge (nicest action and quality it comes back in tune), wrap around bridge with and w/o adjustable saddles and The one chambered body/set neck with a bridge saddle and a wooden tail piece. I need both types of bridges, but I prefer the old Mannmade one piece vibrato bridge on the old PRS custom and 6 point or a 2 point vibrato bridge on Strats-it just have to have a smooth action. For LP or set neck type in the 24.625” and 24.50” scale length- I prefer a TOM.


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> When I was in the Navy with no bills or responsibilities I bought a 94' PRS Custom 24 so I have a lot to measure up too. I could never afford it today!



Strangely enough, I still have a custom 1985 and a custom 1989- the 85’ faded from royal blue to a “faded blue jeans” (because of the type of aniline dye Paul used back then) and the 89’ for some reason or another is still that strong vintage yellow. 94’ is a good year for PRS. I had a CU22 that was made in 1994 with a wrap around bridge.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

Mine is Tortoise Shell which to me is a nice amber. I love the 25" scale.


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

I love tortoiseshell stain, it is pretty close to amber. The 25” scale is about the median between an LP and a strat/tele. The 25” scale length was used earlier on by Dobro and National Guitars & Danelectro, before Paul did.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

@Arn213 have you ever played a guitar with a Tune O Matic but strings through the body? I have a TOM with the tailpiece but I just don't like the look of the tailpiece. I'm curious as to what kind of tonal effect the top and bottom ferrul method might have? It is that or change the neck angle which is still doable. I used some shims backwards just to get an idea. I have the blade shows to figure it out.


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

Pretty sure Mosrite used the 25" too. I don't know if it is the scale length or the pick ups or what but my PRS had a nasty grinding , growl that I wouldn't change a thing or probsbly ever part with it. It cured my GAS. Amps on the other hand...

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

You may like these couple cabs I built for me. 2x12 with old Hepner Alnico organ speakers.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

1x10
There is a local amp builder that wants me to build him a cab. In return I'm having him walkme through building a Deluxe to my satisfaction. Psyched about that too.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> Pretty sure Mosrite used the 25" too. I don't know if it is the scale length or the pick ups or what but my PRS had a nasty grinding , growl that I wouldn't change a thing or probsbly ever part with it. It cured my GAS. Amps on the other hand...



The custom 24’s depending what pickups you had and year it was made (T & B early years, then there was HFS treble & Vintage Bass, etc. evolving to many other pickup types), it does have that nasty grinding, growl and it was known to cut through the mix and worked really well with high gain application. They got flack for the pickups sounding too bright and their pickup lines have gone completely in the Ted direction where it has more of a familiar vintage flavor. 

Those 2x12 wood amps are gorgeous! I am digging the grain, heart to sap/spalting and the pin holes- gives a lot of character to the amp? What woods did you use? Are those 8 ohms or 16 ohms?


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## Blueglass (Feb 20, 2018)

The 2x 12 is mainly Jamaican Dogwood with Buttonwood and 2 little Brownheart accent stripes. 
The 10" cab is Cuban Mahogany with Spalted sapwood and Jamaican Dogwood stripes. I grew up in the Keys and most of these Tropical Hardwoods would go in a chipper if people didn't save them for me. I need to get down to mill more.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 20, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> @Arn213 have you ever played a guitar with a Tune O Matic but strings through the body? I have a TOM with the tailpiece but I just don't like the look of the tailpiece. I'm curious as to what kind of tonal effect the top and bottom ferrul method might have? It is that or change the neck angle which is still doable. I used some shims backwards just to get an idea. I have the blade shows to figure it out.



Yes, it sounds a hair less bright and it sounds more focused. Not sure if it has to do with the strings being strung through and are set into the ferrule/direct body wood connection. Usually the fixed bridge touches the metal. It also feels a little weird (the string through) as it seems like there is something missing in that area (lack of reference point or marker) and it kind of looks weird. The Flying V has a string through and a TOM- it sounds tighter, more focus and it has great sustain.

I have a Chandler Austin Special (Ted Newman Jones) it is a singlecut, a 25.5” scale length, it does have a fixed string through hard tail bridge, bolt-on construction with a flat heel (no shim) and a deep headstock angle (scarf joint) with a 6 in line tuners- kind of the paramaters you are on except yours is a double cut.

This might help you with the build:
http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/NeckAngle/index.php

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 21, 2018)

@Blueglass- I dug this out this morning and I am hoping it will give you a point of reference as far as the hardtail bridge with the a headstock angle association.

-The guitar is a singlecut away, 25.5” scale length, with a hardtail/through body string mounting, standard flat heel and has a scarf joint (headstock and neck shaft coupled between the 3rd fretwire and midpoint between the nut and the first fretwire) with a 10.2” headstock angle.
-22 fret with 6 in line tuners/straight string pull.
-1.75” body thickness with standard neck cavity bolt-on construction.
-The rise height from the bottom of the bridge plate to the highest point of the top saddle is roughly .475” (the thickness of the base plate is approximately .080” which is included in the overall dimensions).

Here are some photo’s......

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blueglass (Feb 21, 2018)

Very cool I've never played anything with lipstick tube pick ups. I had originally planed it with a TOM but the changed my mind. I will probably change the pocket angle shallower to maybe 1 degree this weekend. I spent a lot of time measuring off a straightedge last night. I'll have to get a pic of the neck showing the headstock angle. That is one of the things that came out nice. Something's came out super clean and others are making me work. Pretty much the way my life goes.


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## Blueglass (Feb 21, 2018)

3/8 on the nose huh? I may end up with a flat pocket but I am pretty used to the feel of an angle.


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## Arn213 (Feb 21, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> Very cool I've never played anything with lipstick tube pick ups. I had originally planed it with a TOM but the changed my mind. I will probably change the pocket angle shallower to maybe 1 degree this weekend. I spent a lot of time measuring off a straightedge last night. I'll have to get a pic of the neck showing the headstock angle. That is one of the things that came out nice. Something's came out super clean and others are making me work. Pretty much the way my life goes.



Thanks. My friend “hipped” me into this guitar actually and the pickups. He told Keith from the Stones played a 5 string that Jones built. I was curious about the lipstick pups and remember Stevie Ray played a “flip/flop” strat with 3 Danelectro lipstick that was called “Charley” (built by luthier friend of Stevie named Charley Wirz)- you can here the tone of the pups in “Life without you”. The pickups on these are wired so that you can have all different sounds and combinations. It has a push/pull on both, the one at the rear activates an electronic (battery and circuit inside) that pushes the sound of the pickups-grittier, dirtier and somewhat meaner.

Yup, I think you should stick to your original bridge idea, otherwise it would look a bit strange using the TOM on a Strat, plus the challenge of locating the string holes to get you the right angle without the TOM hitting the outside corner.

Keep us posted.


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## Arn213 (Feb 21, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> 3/8 on the nose huh? I may end up with a flat pocket but I am pretty used to the feel of an angle.



I think it might be safer to start with a flat neck pocket and then do trial and error- then you can resort to angling the pocket.


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## Blueglass (Feb 24, 2018)

I flattened the bottom of the pocket and it looks like it will be perfect now.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Arn213 (Feb 24, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> I flattened the bottom of the pocket and it looks like it will be perfect now.



So glad that it worked out!


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## Blueglass (Mar 8, 2018)

I thought I had a good idea but as usual that is where it all goes wrong. I was thinking I could make a 10” radius sanding block by running a block side ways while slowly raising the blade on my 10” table saw. Only after fully radiusing my fingerboard did I realize that only equals a 5” radius. Oh well I guess I will have to break down and buy a 10” radius block. That is really painful for someone as cheap as me.


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## Arn213 (Mar 9, 2018)

Blueglass said:


> I thought I had a good idea but as usual that is where it all goes wrong. I was thinking I could make a 10” radius sanding block by running a block side ways while slowly raising the blade on my 10” table saw. Only after fully radiusing my fingerboard did I realize that only equals a 5” radius. Oh well I guess I will have to break down and buy a 10” radius block. That is really painful for someone as cheap as me.



I would imagine that a 10” radius block from StewMac or any other places is a good investment, especially if you are planning to make more than one build. 

How is that fretting saw working out?


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## Blueglass (Mar 10, 2018)

Works great. Yep already ordered the block. I bought the LMI blade used .


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