# A little better



## Tclem (Oct 10, 2015)

still got a long ways to go but I'm enjoying it Some of Allan's fbeb I stabilized and dyed

Reactions: Like 5


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2015)

Nice work on the handle Tony. I think you took a step back on this blade though on shape (not grind - it's better). Every part of a blade should have a purpose - nothing wasted. Lots of angles and sharp corners on this one. 

Tony you have the talent to make beautiful knives but you seem to be rushing them out. Making knives isn't like turning hair sticks or anything else - making knives -- it's a lot more 3-d. Knife making is true craftsmanship even at the lowest levels of the craft compared to turning or flat work. 

Just my layman feedback as a knife user and observer of the craft. Keep going you are on your way but screw what we think. TAKE YOUR TIME.


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## manbuckwal (Oct 10, 2015)

The handle is a beauty ! Aesthetically tho overall Kevin hit the nail on the head . The way you are knocking these bad boys out tho, you will soon have a blade that matches the handle and vise versa

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tclem (Oct 10, 2015)

Kevin said:


> Nice work on the handle Tony. I think you took a step back on this blade though on shape (not grind - it's better). Every part of a blade should have a purpose - nothing wasted. Lots of angles and sharp corners on this one.
> 
> Tony you have the talent to make beautiful knives but you seem to be rushing them out. Making knives isn't like turning hair sticks or anything else - making knives -- it's a lot more 3-d. Knife making is true craftsmanship even at the lowest levels of the craft compared to turning or flat work.
> 
> Just my layman feedback as a knife user and observer of the craft. Keep going you are on your way but screw what we think. TAKE YOUR TIME.


Thanks. I think what I visualize and actually shaped on the blade were two different things. Lol


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## Foot Patrol (Oct 10, 2015)

I see that you made a sharp finger. I have just finished 3 of them myself. The grind is getting better. One suggestion on the handle is to leave a little more of the ricasso and have the front edge of the handle not but up against or cross over the plunge line. Just bring it back a little.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## Kevin (Oct 10, 2015)

Tclem said:


> Thanks. I think what I visualize and actually shaped on the blade were two different things. Lol



Works that way in all mediums and all levels believe me. It's one of the things that made me focus on providing artists with a canvas versus me trying to use a canvas.


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 11, 2015)

Tony -I can see that you really put some time and effort into the ricasso and plunge line. It shows. I agree with Scott's suggestion of moving the scales back from the plunge line. I would add that the choil could use the same attention. I like the dye job on the handle to. Did you do that?


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## Tclem (Oct 11, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> Tony -I can see that you really put some time and effort into the ricasso and plunge line. It shows. I agree with Scott's suggestion of moving the scales back from the plunge line. I would add that the choil could use the same attention. I like the dye job on the handle to. Did you do that?


Yes I did these scales. What do you mean by attention to the choil?


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## Tclem (Oct 11, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> Tony -I can see that you really put some time and effort into the ricasso and plunge line. It shows. I agree with Scott's suggestion of moving the scales back from the plunge line. I would add that the choil could use the same attention. I like the dye job on the handle to. Did you do that?


I worked on this all week. Lots of time. Lol


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 11, 2015)

The choil is a notch where the knife edge meets the plunge line. There are hundreds of ways of making them and twice as many styles, but it cleans up that area asthetically besides its functionality


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## Tclem (Oct 11, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> The choil is a notch where the knife edge meets the plunge line. There are hundreds of ways of making them and twice as many styles, but it cleans up that area asthetically besides its functionality
> View attachment 89509


Ahhhhh yeah I messed that up. Quit zooming in on the pictures. Lol. I'll end up with a drawer full of shop knives. Lol.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## robert flynt (Oct 11, 2015)

Tony, watch the plunge when you grind all the way up to the spine or your blade will be thinner than the handle and recasso area. If this happens, it is proper to thin the handle part of the blade to the same thickness as the blade , if possible, to salvage the blade. It is better to stick to to more simple blade shapes, like the drop point, while getting some grind time under your belt. I have seen some makers use a file guide and file to make the grind stopping point IE [plunge ] then complete the grind on the belt grinder. Also the plunge should be rounded not squared it can cause stress risers when you heat treat.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 3


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## Tclem (Oct 11, 2015)

robert flynt said:


> Tony, watch the plunge when you grind all the way up to the spine or your blade will be thinner than the handle and recasso area. If this happens, it is proper to thin the handle part of the blade to the same thickness as the blade , if possible, to salvage the blade. It is better to stick to to more simple blade shapes, like the drop point, while getting some grind time under your belt. I have seen some makers use a file guide and file to make the grind stopping point IE [plunge ] then complete the grind on the belt grinder. Also the plunge should be rounded not squared it can cause stress risers when you heat treat.


I try to stop my bevel before it gets to the spine but I suck at making both sides the same so I end up going all the way. That's what I like about this over everything else. So many different aspects of it. Ok now back to see if my scales are glued up on another one. Lol

Reactions: Funny 1


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