# Help Needed: cutting chipper blades to make turning tools



## FWBGBS (Jun 30, 2014)

Question:
I got a few used blades real cheap and would like to incorporate them as turning tools.
They're 12"x3" x 3/8"thick. The thickness is obviously the problem.
I went through two porta-band blades (18 tpi) that cut all of 1/8" before I quit.
I called two local laser/water-knife operations that charge at minimum $180 per job.
I also own angle grinders and Sawzalls, but I wanted to ask here first.
Any suggestions on an easier way to rip these things to size? I'm open to anything; no matter how funky sounding.

Back story:
A gentleman at my woodworking club that got me into turning used handmade turning tools almost exclusively. He was a machinist for Boeing and formed his wood chipper blades to size and length before retiring roughly 10 years ago. For example, as I was being taught he had me using this massive scraper to start all the spindles and bowls. His big selling point was practically zero vibration translated to the user.

If it's cost effective I'd like to make a massive scraper and a few smaller detail tools.

If this endeavor is a big waste of money please don't hesitate to stop me now.
I might also make a similar post over at Practicalmachinist (though, posting a WW query on a metal working board might be construed as blasphemy).


http://i207.Rule #2/albums/bb90/fwbgbs/Wood%20Barter/Blade1_zpsb3fb5e77.jpg http://i207.Rule #2/albums/bb90/fwbgbs/Wood%20Barter/Blade2_zpsdcf0efc8.jpg


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## Schroedc (Jun 30, 2014)

Any idea what kind of steel you're working with? Might want to see if you have a tech college with a machinist program near you, they are usually reasonable for odd jobs.

Reactions: +Karma 1 | Informative 1


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## FWBGBS (Jun 30, 2014)

By the looks of my bandsaw blades I'd say they were forged by Apollyon himself using adamantium and anhydrous plasma.
This stuff is TOUGH!

We do have a JC close with a great machinist's program. I'll give them a call.
Very good suggestion.


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## Dennis Ford (Jun 30, 2014)

If you can split one lengthwise; it will be the right size for a scraper. I very much doubt that chipper blades are made of an ideal steel for scrapers but they will work. If they are carbon steel; they can be annealed by heating to red and cooling slowly (bury in ashes until cool). They would be easy to cut with your band-saw afterwards but will need to be hardened after shaping. If they are High Speed Steel, you can cut them with an angle grinder and abrasive cutoff wheels (it will not be easy and will wear out a few cut-off wheels) without much change to the hardness. You could also cut off small pieces to make scraper cutters for hollowing tools. Grind a slot for attachment as drilling a hole in high speed steel is not worth the trouble.

Home made tooling is satisfying but starting with an unknown steel is a recipe for frustration.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## FWBGBS (Jun 30, 2014)

Dennis Ford said:


> If you can split one lengthwise; it will be the right size for a scraper. I very much doubt that chipper blades are made of an ideal steel for scrapers but they will work. If they are carbon steel; they can be annealed by heating to red and cooling slowly (bury in ashes until cool). They would be easy to cut with your band-saw afterwards but will need to be hardened after shaping. If they are High Speed Steel, you can cut them with an angle grinder and abrasive cutoff wheels (it will not be easy and will wear out a few cut-off wheels) without much change to the hardness. You could also cut off small pieces to make scraper cutters for hollowing tools. Grind a slot for attachment as drilling a hole in high speed steel is not worth the trouble.
> 
> Home made tooling is satisfying but starting with an unknown steel is a recipe for frustration.



Understood.

I'll be giving the JC tomorrow.
I'm already getting soured on this whole mess. I had no idea it would be this labor intensive. 
I was carelessly thinking cut, shape and I'm done.


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## robert flynt (Jun 30, 2014)

If the blade is not D2 steel and you have a friend with a forge or an oxy./act. rig with a rose bud tip or kiln, you can heat the blade until a magnet will no longer stick to it ( around 1450 to 1500 deg.) then stick in a pile wood ash or vermiculite and leave it to cool slowly, this should anneal the steel. You should then be able to cut it with a metal cutting band saw or such. When you have it shaped the way you want it, heat some peanut or vegetable oil until you can touch the pan but not hold it( 125 deg.). Heat the blade to non magnetic again and plunge the metal in the oil until it quits boiling the oil. clean it up and put it in toaster oven at around 400 deg. for 1hr. (do the 1hr draw twice). That should do it

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## FWBGBS (Jul 2, 2014)

Update: I've exhausted all avenues except the heat/temper/annealy thing. 
I called two prominent local blade sharpening shops, talked to three Boeing employees, and spoke to an instructor at Clover technical college.
ALL of them agreed the metal would HAVE TO BE annealed before conventional cutting. Otherwise, without the annealing process, the chipper blades would have to be ground to shape; no saw blade of any kind could effectively cut through this hardened steel. Clover JC ball-parked it, charging only for grinding wheels, around $200 to grind down three blades. Yikes!

Unfortunately, I do not have access to a forge or acetylene/plasma torch. If you knew my friends you wouldn't trust any of them with a Zippo. 
I appreciate all you responders kindly directing me in the right direction. As a positive, I was able to absorb a short course in metallurgy.
Maybe, if I get bored, I'll slowly work at them with my angle grinder. I've got six of these millstones.


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## Cody Killgore (Jul 3, 2014)

IMO, one of the 1/8" cutoff wheels on an angle grinder would zip through it pretty quick (relatively speaking). I actually have some chipper blades that look real similar (same logo on them). I just Rockwell tested them at 58-60 HRC. While they are not necessarily the exact same, I would definitely not try to cut them with any kind of saw. I am going to do some forging on one of mine tomorrow and forge it down to knife size. I am also going to try and determine what steel it is. From what I can tell, it is most likely either D2 or A8...both of which are some tough steels and really couldn't be annealed without a programmable kiln.

If you give up trying to cut away at em, I might could help ya out with the annealing if you'd like. Of course then it would need to be hardened/tempered after you did your shaping to get the most of them.

Also...Assuming it is one of these high alloy tool steels, they both need to be heated up to 1800-1900F range (depending on the steel) and held there for a looong time for the quench. Which again you really need a programmable kiln to do.
Heating to non-magnetic would work if it was a simple carbon steel like 1080.

Reactions: +Karma 1


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## FWBGBS (Jul 3, 2014)

Cody, thank you for your generous offer. Your kind thoughts are much appreciated.

The stamp on my blades read _Sharp Edge, Inc._ Googling only found numerous sharpening services. Also, the logo was easily removed with a wire wheel (a few had spot rust from storage).

Your suggestion to got with 1/8" cutting wheel is exactly what I was thinking. Maybe I'll vise one up tomorrow and give a whirl.
Fortunately, I have an outstanding 3M supplies connection. I have boxes of cutoff wheels just waiting to be mounted.

"Tough" doesn't begin to express the hardness of these things. I took one into our local WWing shop and spoke to Ken the manager. He's an ex-Boeing machinist and laughed when told him I was using a porta-saw to cut them. My methods really seemed to brighten his day.

Enjoy the 4th, Brad


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## Mike Mills (Jul 4, 2014)

Did you try the angle grinder idea?
I would make a holder to keep it square to the fence, install a metal blade on my RAS, and give it a try.
I cut a lot of metal on my RAS (enough to have replaced the wood top about 5 times due to burn through of orange size holes in the 6/4 top).
I would make repeated cuts and not cut through until it was about 1/32 or so.
Would also make great bowl scrapers (exterior) ground like the left hand and right hand scrapers.
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-pkrd-ss

Reactions: Like 1


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## FWBGBS (Jul 4, 2014)

No, I haven't tried the angle grinder method as of yet.
After cleaning up the yard this afternoon, and before we Q, I figure I'll chuck up a wheel and give it a go.
I'll report back on my results.


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## FWBGBS (Jul 19, 2014)

Update: I'm completely over this misconceived endeavor!

It took me just under 20 minutes of grinding to cut through 3.625" vertical (and wavy) inches. This time includes three water squelches.
This test blade, as the photos show, isn't even the intended chipper blade. 
The cut was completed on a much thinner 3/16" blade (thinner by half).

I really appreciate all the brainstorming that was offered.




I think I'll just stick my carbide & HSS cutters. 


http://i207.Rule #2/albums/bb90/fwbgbs/Wood%20Barter/Blade1_zps36d5ca9b.jpg

http://i207.Rule #2/albums/bb90/fwbgbs/Wood%20Barter/Blade2_zpsddcee7ba.jpg​

Reactions: Like 1


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## Schroedc (Jul 19, 2014)

Time to tell your wife you need to buy your own plasma cutter

Reactions: Funny 1


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## FWBGBS (Jul 19, 2014)

Schroedc said:


> Time to tell your wife you need to buy your own plasma cutter



...Maybe a few blue moons ago that might have worked.

After purchasing my third Nova chuck, explaining, "honey, lathe chucks simply wear out." The jig was up.
While watching me turn one night she innocently asked, "how does metal wear out?"
Being the dim bulb I am I just starred at her blankly vainly searching for a convincing retort.
... And then the fight started.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## elnino (Jul 20, 2014)

are you cutting with a 4 inch angle grinder? why did the the supernovas go bad? was it just the inserts that failed?


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## FWBGBS (Jul 20, 2014)

I was using a 12 Amp 6" grinder with a 4.5" metal cutting wheel.



elnino said:


> Why did the the supernovas go bad? Was it just the inserts that failed?



I should scrub up on my story telling. That was a failed attempt at humor.
To clarify, I've never had any problems with anything Nova/Teknatool.


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