# Epoxy?



## Jimmy Norris (Aug 8, 2017)

im looking for a recommendation on some epoxies. What do you guys use for crushed rock and for dyes? Thanks in advance.


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## TimR (Aug 9, 2017)

Jimmy, when it comes to setting fine crushed rock inlay, I prefer thin and medium CA. If I were filling larger voids and was needing epoxy, System Three has some good products including some "clears". I use their 5-min as my default epoxy, but they have some with longer setup times.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Tim Carter (Aug 9, 2017)

I use thin Starbond CA because it wicks through the stone to lock it in place. It's also clear which I prefer. Starbond CA comes with small nozzles for the bottle that makes it easy to direct the CA to the crack without wasting glue.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 9, 2017)

Thanks for the input. I have a few pieces that have a 3/16 -1/4inch crack about 2" long. And another piece that has a golf ball size void. Just trying to figure out the best method to fill in the cracks/voids.


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## DKMD (Aug 9, 2017)

I use cheap 5 minute epoxy for most stuff. You can thin it a little with acetone to make it flow better. I've also added alcohol based due with good results. 

I've only used CA for really small areas.

Also, a heat gun or torch helps things flow and helps get bubbles out.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## David Hill (Aug 9, 2017)

I buy the "glaze" finish" from the box stores. It's a 1:1 epoxy mix. I just mix as much as I think I need & mix in mineral. Starts off thin, so I may wait for it to thicken as needed.
I use duct tape to seal the edges-- that stuff'll run out of cracks if not careful. Takes 24 hrs to cure well.
Good thing is that if you need to fill more, from settling, etc -- can use more-- the epoxy sticks well to itself. It also tools well, sands easy, holds finish.
For large voids, I'll get a piece of the same wood, cut to fit and use the epoxy there too--gives some great effects.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 10, 2017)

Jimmy Norris said:


> Thanks for the input. I have a few pieces that have a 3/16 -1/4inch crack about 2" long. And another piece that has a *golf ball size void.* Just trying to figure out the best method to fill in the cracks/voids.


Jimmy, that piece with the golf ball sized void, look around your property or even the neighbors for a dead limb of the same species. Try to get one that is an exact fit that you can drive into the void if it is deep enough. Glue it in with Ca, and fill any of the little voids that are left with whatever enhancements you choose. As far as the other crack that is about 1/4", you could do the same if you can find the pieces needed. Don't cut any to fit except for the length. What you end up with is a piece that looks like it's more natural with limbs that are part of the piece..... Hope this helps some........... Jerry In Tucson)

Reactions: Like 2


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 10, 2017)

DKMD said:


> I use cheap 5 minute epoxy for most stuff. You can thin it a little with acetone to make it flow better. I've also added alcohol based due with good results.
> 
> I've only used CA for really small areas.
> 
> Also, a heat gun or torch helps things flow and helps get bubbles out.


David. Does the acetone extend the set up time?


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 10, 2017)

Nubsnstubs said:


> Jimmy, that piece with the golf ball sized void, look around your property or even the neighbors for a dead limb of the same species. Try to get one that is an exact fit that you can drive into the void if it is deep enough. Glue it in with Ca, and fill any of the little voids that are left with whatever enhancements you choose. As far as the other crack that is about 1/4", you could do the same if you can find the pieces needed. Don't cut any to fit except for the length. What you end up with is a piece that looks like it's more natural with limbs that are part of the piece..... Hope this helps some........... Jerry In Tucson)


I'll take a picture of the piece that has the big void so you can see what im working with.

Reactions: Like 1


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## DKMD (Aug 10, 2017)

Jimmy Norris said:


> David. Does the acetone extend the set up time?



I only add a few drops, but it does seem to slow things a bit. If it gets too thin, it's a mess.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Spinartist (Aug 10, 2017)

For crushed stone I use thin Starbond CA glue like @Tim Carter mentioned. Works very well.

If cracks or voids are deep I carefully fill with c/a glue & saw dust first, leaving the top 1/16" slightly or more to fill with stone so I'm not wasting it.
For dying, System Three 5 min epoxy is my choice like @TimR . I don't use slow cure epoxy because my woodturnings are mostly art & not structural although the slow cure I've used seems to soak into the wood better.

I also add wood from the same species to fill larger gaps like @Nubsnstubs mentioned, usually with Starbond CA glue.


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## Ralph Muhs (Aug 10, 2017)

What is "CA"?


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 10, 2017)

cyano acrilate, otherwise know as supper glue....... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 10, 2017)

These are the photos. This is intended to be a peppermill. But i have a some doubt that it will contain the pepper/salt. With your guys help i could be wrong...


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## DKMD (Aug 10, 2017)

I think it's fixable... at least it's worth a try. Hindsight being 20-20, it might have been easier to fill before you drilled it.

You could try using play doh or modeling clay to plug the interior then epoxy fill from the outside. Or, you could tape up the exterior and try to fill from the inside. Another thought would be to turn a wooden plug for the inside then fill... if you waxed the plug, you might be able to extract it after the epoxy cures. If not, you'd have to re-drill the inside to remove the plug. 

There's probably an easy way that I'm overlooking... been known to take the long way around for no good reason.

Reactions: Like 1


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## duncsuss (Aug 10, 2017)

You could stick a balloon into the hole and inflate it to block the inside, then you can fill the hole with epoxy from the outside. When cured, pop the balloon and run the drill bit through one more time to clean up the inside.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## DKMD (Aug 10, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> You could stick a balloon into the hole and inflate it to block the inside, then you can fill the hole with epoxy from the outside. When cured, pop the balloon and run the drill bit through one more time to clean up the inside.



I think Trojan makes balloons that shape...

Reactions: Funny 2 | Informative 1 | Creative 1


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 10, 2017)

DKMD said:


> I think it's fixable... at least it's worth a try. Hindsight being 20-20, it might have been easier to fill before you drilled it.
> 
> You could try using play doh or modeling clay to plug the interior then epoxy fill from the outside. Or, you could tape up the exterior and try to fill from the inside. Another thought would be to turn a wooden plug for the inside then fill... if you waxed the plug, you might be able to extract it after the epoxy cures. If not, you'd have to re-drill the inside to remove the plug.
> 
> There's probably an easy way that I'm overlooking... been known to take the long way around for no good reason.


I drilled before i turned it round. I noticed the bark inclusion after i drilled wasn't sure how big it was till I turned it. It wasn't visible from the outside.

Reactions: Like 1


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## duncsuss (Aug 10, 2017)

DKMD said:


> I think Trojan makes balloons that shape...



Genius -- and they are already lubed.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 10, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Genius -- and they are already lubed.


For easy extraction....

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 10, 2017)

Jimmy Norris said:


> For easy extraction....


I thought this was a family orientated site. You guys are lettin me down with all this vulgarity... If you buy that, I'm in the business of selling bridges........ 

Actually, I think someone suggested plugging it, then redrilling it. Drill out past the bark inclusion. Insert a plug to fit the hole, going past the bottom, about 1/8" that you show. That will allow you to get back into the same ID hole you already have. Use whatever media you choose as a filler. I would personally use a twig plus other stuff with CA glue. Once the glue is dried, redrill it , turn it to clean up the od, and finish it the way you intended. You have a pretty nice piece of wood there, and it's now even close to being a piece of firewood. Put it aside until you can digest the information you've received........ ........... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## barry richardson (Aug 11, 2017)

I use epoxy mostly, sometimes CA for very thin cracks. I find that epoxy is a lot faster and easier for filling large cracks.. here is a tutorial I did a while ago. 
https://woodbarter.com/threads/inlay-my-way.20601/

The only thing I do different now is use the 2 part epoxy syringes, mainly for convenience...

Reactions: Informative 1


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## rocky1 (Aug 11, 2017)

Just a thought, but... @TimR just did a thread on a Banksia pod , using a clear PVC liner (_I think it was_) inside the mill, what would it look like lined, and leave the void?

Reactions: Like 2


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 11, 2017)

Rocky. I've thought about doing that. Not sure where i would get the clear pipe.


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## rocky1 (Aug 11, 2017)

Tim has been summonsed above, and can maybe address further questions, Jimmy. In his build thread on the Banksia Mill Tim said he bought it from US Plastics.


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## TimR (Aug 12, 2017)

Jimmy Norris said:


> Rocky. I've thought about doing that. Not sure where i would get the clear pipe.


Hey Jimmy, I didn't catch all the details when @rocky1 posted that call to me in the thread. What size did you drill the hole? I may be able to help you if an acrylic liner is something that will work for you. You'd have to buy a 6 ft length from USPlastics, but if you used a 1" drill, you may be in luck getting a small piece from one of the lengths I recently got.


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## Jimmy Norris (Aug 12, 2017)

TimR said:


> Hey Jimmy, I didn't catch all the details when @rocky1 posted that call to me in the thread. What size did you drill the hole? I may be able to help you if an acrylic liner is something that will work for you. You'd have to buy a 6 ft length from USPlastics, but if you used a 1" drill, you may be in luck getting a small piece from one of the lengths I recently got.


I drilled it with 1-1/16". I will check out USplastics out. Thanks for the help.


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## Robert Baccus (Aug 21, 2017)

Using tape for a mould to contain the epoxy is a good idea. However the glue will melt even duct tape--try the aluminum dust tape--it hold the glue.


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## Mike Mills (Aug 22, 2017)

Only a possibility but..
Turn a plug to fit the inside. (When finished drill the plug back out.)
I find coffee grounds with CA makes it difficult to tell it is not natural bark/knot.

Never mind.  I didn't notice there was a page 2 of remarks.


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