# A roughing any suggestions?



## sleevecc (Nov 8, 2014)

An 8 inch piece of wood I found, amazing what you can find lying on the ground next to the street sometimes. Question at this point cut the top, hollow the main pack in some dust and some bags and let sit for awhile? what about the top make sure leave `1/4 play? or 1/2 inch? it feel pretty dry Id say around 14% though some gremlin has stole my MC meter. grr

Reactions: Like 1


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## Schroedc (Nov 8, 2014)

Do you have any anchor seal? I generally leave about 3/4 to an inch thick and then either anchor seal it or pack into a cardboard box with the shavings If it's going to be lidded I'd think you almost have to separate the lid and hollow out the inside somewhat or the outside will dry without the inside getting any drier and that could split it.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## sleevecc (Nov 8, 2014)

yeah Imma hollow it,,, but leave like 3/4 to inch? I can seal and put in bags Im just trying to figure the best over all way to limit as much checking and warping as best as possible. and once I cut the lid off,, what do I do with it? samething?


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## Schroedc (Nov 8, 2014)

sleevecc said:


> yeah Imma hollow it,,, but leave like 3/4 to inch? I can seal and put in bags Im just trying to figure the best over all way to limit as much checking and warping as best as possible. and once I cut the lid off,, what do I do with it? samething?




Yes, do the same thing with the lid. leaving 3/4 to an inch is usually what I do for something in that diameter, depends too on what you want your finished thickness to be. for 5/16 or 3/8 or thinner that should work fine. If you are going for 1/2 inch wall thickness leave it a bit thicker to give you room to true it up if it turns into an oval as it dries. (I've got a cherry bowl that I roughed too thin and it moved a ton and cant be turned round since it's over an inch narrower one way than the other )

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DKMD (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm hoping you haven't attached the knob permanently... You'll need to true up the lid after it's fully dried.


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## NYWoodturner (Nov 8, 2014)

Steve - Leave more room/slop/thickness on the walls of the bottom.. The lid will dry faster and more completely and will move less than the base. You have the potential for the lid to shrink or move to where when trued up on final turning it is too small to fit in the bottom after it is tired. I hope that makes sense. If not please say so. . . It also looks like you may have some pith in the lower part of the vessel so your movement in the base will be more pronounced.


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## sleevecc (Nov 9, 2014)

DKMD said:


> I'm hoping you haven't attached the knob permanently... You'll need to true up the lid after it's fully dried.


 the knob and the top piece of walnut that the knob is on is attached as well,,, I it on and it is bigger than I plan it to be when complete,,, I have not even cut the lid off the main part yet,,,, once I hollow the bowl, Ill put the lid back on and trued everything back up again all at once,,, not sure if this is how anyone else does it , but this procedure has worked perfectly for me in the past on dry wood. I dont have jaw chucks so I have to use some ingenuity.


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## sleevecc (Nov 9, 2014)

NYWoodturner said:


> Steve - Leave more room/slop/thickness on the walls of the bottom.. The lid will dry faster and more completely and will move less than the base. You have the potential for the lid to shrink or move to where when trued up on final turning it is too small to fit in the bottom after it is tired. I hope that makes sense. If not please say so. . . It also looks like you may have some pith in the lower part of the vessel so your movement in the base will be more pronounced.


Scott there are 3 piths in it actually I am expecting it to move and crack all over the place. really..


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