# Making a sea urchin ornament



## TimR (Oct 27, 2015)

Well, @Kevin dropped a suggestion on a tutorial for making an ornament, based loosely on the ornament I recently posted. There's many ways to do this, and you don't have to use urchins of course, you can use anything you can imagine. One of my favorite ornament materials is banksia pod...but that's a bit beyond this simple intro. I get my urchins during visits to family in Ft Walton Beach, Fl, and when desperate...ebay.



Steve Bellinger got this ornament in last years exchange.

There is a pdf out on woodturnerscatalog site, by Joe Wagner, on making a sea urchin ornament. Worth looking at. This instruction is using a sputnik type urchin, which is much more stable/durable than the lighter urchins. You don't need to foam an urchin ornament, but can if you want extra protection. 

So, for the ornament I made, here's how I start. It begins by recognizing this type of urchins, like several others, are delicate and would shatter to drop, much like a glass ornaments. I came up with the idea of filling it with low expanding foam ... though I've not done extensive testing to validate it's durability. Seems reasonable.



Before I do any filling of foam, I spray the outside of the urchin with whatever lacquer finish I have on hand. My thinking is that any really small openings that foam may try to seep out of, will have a harder time...again, not tested, seems reasonable, and it's nice to have a little finish on it anyway, and you won't need to put any more on from this point forward.

Tape over any opening on the top. Note: This doesn't have to be the top. I've inverted them, and it looks kinda cool too. Also tape the big hole to protect the opening from foam. You won't have much of the finial sticking out from the edge of the hole, so take enough to avoid having excess foam to clean off...it doesn't like to be removed from anything it sticks too. No matter how little you put in, it's too much. You'll get good at quick small bursts. Do a bunch at one time, the straw is all but impossible to clean effectively.



Let the stuff dry/expand for at least 20-30 minutes, or you'll get very sticky fingers. Then...pull off excess and remove tape.







More to come...hold on....

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 5


----------



## TimR (Oct 27, 2015)

So, now the hard part...turning the finial. There's a bunch of different ways to do this, as pen makers will attest to different ways they shape wood. I use a roughing gouge to round things out, then a detail spindle gouge and skew for shaping the finial. You can use small scrapers too, which I've also done. 
Whatever you use, it is ideal if a tight grain wood, for several reasons: 1. Takes details better, 2. Maintains rigidity while turning, 3. Can be buffed only for finish. I chose dogwood, but have also used blackwood, olivewood, pink ivory, photinia, cherry and others.
I started by placing marks with my skew where the tip would be, then the top of the bulb, and then the cove area. This gives me targets for roughing and and then forming details. The little void in this piece was a challenge to keep the piece from flying apart. Throughout most of this, I had to hold my gouge with one hand (right) and then steady the piece from underneath with my left hand. 
It's important when doing this to sand as you go. Finials can get pretty delicate, so waiting till the whole thing is done to sand isn't a good idea.


 

 


I forgot to get a final pic of finial with the cove, but you'll see it in the end. This is showing drilling the hole for the hook. I use small 0.040" or 0.050" screw eyes I get from jannscraft. I drill out with a slightly smaller drill which I keep clean and lubed with beeswax. The beeswax also makes it easier screwing the hook in when done. I forgot to mention...the tenon on the top of the finial and bottom of the button piece below needs sized to the hole in your urchin. Just use a caliper and get close, err on side of smaller, than bigger. 


 




When all done, but before attaching to urchin, buff with Tripoli or similar wheel. Wanna add a finish...hey, go for it. Wide open choices here.
When that's done, I use a System 3, 2 part epoxy, 5 minute set. You can use longer set times, but your hands will tire quickly.

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 4


----------



## TimR (Oct 27, 2015)

Looks better from this angle...

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 4


----------



## Kevin (Oct 28, 2015)

Fantastic tutorial and really cool method Tim thanks for the excellent content. That banksia pod Steve got is perfect in all respects. Gorgeous. 

The sea urchin reminds me of a jellyfish with hanging tentacles. Very cool.


----------



## Graybeard (Oct 28, 2015)

Thank you Tim. That's really well done. Love your finials, something to strive for.


----------



## TimR (Oct 28, 2015)

Thanks all. Very impromptu tut, but really the things I find most valuable are the little behind the scenes tricks, which is what I try to emphasize.
It's funny how you really need to develop muscle memory of sorts for turning, esp the small diam finials. Left to right in order of being made you can see by the 3rd and 4th, I was getting in the groove for making them slimmer. The other pic is a typical support I do with my left hand while turning with right only.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## gman2431 (Oct 28, 2015)

I really need to man up and learn how to use a skew. Lol

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


----------



## TimR (Oct 28, 2015)

gman2431 said:


> I really need to man up and learn how to use a skew. Lol


There's multiple ways around using one, but it's a great tool for getting a smooth finish. The key...and don't tell anyone else, is to use the heel of the skew more so than the rest. In this pic, it shows me about mid point along the skew...the farther I get up to the top of the skew (toe??), the higher likelihood of getting a catch. I still get catches, especially when holding the skew in my left hand, and usually just on the extreme ends of a bead.

Post edit: Even using the heel can cause a problem if you are not riding the bevel, so to speak. Lastly...there's a sweet spot on the angle of the skew to the piece. This isn't the angle as in riding the bevel, but how the edge points. Pointing in a direction that is too 'square' to the lathe axis is problematic in not taking enough material, pointing in a direction much more than 45 deg takes too much, I'm thinking. When practicing, try varying that angle...it's important and will make a difference.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


----------



## Graybeard (Oct 28, 2015)

Tim, Looks like you're getting that skew to do a great job. I do wonder about the direction your traveling in the photo. Are you cutting up hill? Is it because you have trouble with the left hand? I hope so because that's what I have to do. Misery loves company?

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## TimR (Oct 28, 2015)

Graybeard said:


> Tim, Looks like you're getting that skew to do a great job. I do wonder about the direction your traveling in the photo. Are you cutting up hill? Is it because you have trouble with the left hand? I hope so because that's what I have to do. Misery loves company?


David, you're spot in identifying that on this one, because the taper is so slight, I do sometimes go uphill. And yes...were I better or with more confidence, I'd do it with my left hand. The alternative, which I've seen folks do and seems reasonable if your chuck is tight and grub screwed, is to turn in reverse from the opposite side for that part. I may try it, though my light and vacuum will need to be moved.

By the way...I think I'm able to get away with going uphill because the dogwood is pretty tight grained and doesn't lift as easily.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 28, 2015)

TimR said:


> By the way...I think I'm able to get away with going uphill because the dogwood is pretty tight grained and doesn't lift as easily.


Going uphill makes it even more important that you do not present the cutting edge at a shallow angle ... DAMHIKT

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## ironman123 (Oct 28, 2015)

Great job.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------

