# Best glue for ebony



## larry C

I just started an ebony/holly segmented bowl, need some advice on the best glue to use. In the past, I've used Titebond, 1, 2 and 3, also have used Gorilla glue, as well as CA, thin, medium, and thick, also have used various epoxy, 5 minute and 15 minute set times. The epoxy I use comes from West Systems.

I can't say that I've had any serious problems, but just wondering what some of you guys have used in the past.

Thanks in advance

Larry


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## Kevin

Water based glues can work on oily dense woods, but not nearly as well as epoxy or polyurethane glues. The foaming with PU is a PITA and you need to moisten the joints because it is activated by moisture. I prefer epoxy because I hate dealing with the foam on fine furniture. I used PU glues solely when building docks and piers and boathouses because the foaming residue isn't unsightly once scraped off but you can't do that as easily with fine woodworking. 

Don't over-clamp joints using epoxy or it can squeeze out too much glue - epoxy needs a little thicker membrane than water based glues but water based glues can't penetrate the oily dense barrier of many exotics. Prep the joints by using naptha or acetone and work fast to glue everything together before the oils start oozing back out. I'm not an expert but this is my preference based on my experience - others may contradict my opinion which is fine because I am not as experienced as many others that have worked with exotics.

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## barry richardson

I've used yellow glue with ebony in segmented turnings, seemed to work fine....

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## Kevin

barry richardson said:


> I've used yellow glue with ebony in segmented turnings, seemed to work fine....



That's usually flat grain to flat grain though right? Did you use a solvent first?


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## barry richardson

both end to end and flat to flat. Probably not as strong as epoxy, but the beauty of segmented work is they lay up like bricks, and there is pretty much no stress on the joints. I have use yellow glue for all my segmented work with all kinds of exotics and none have failed, for case work, yea, a different story....

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## larry C

Kevin said:


> Water based glues can work on oily dense woods, but not nearly as well as epoxy or polyurethane glues. The foaming with PU is a PITA and you need to moisten the joints because it is activated by moisture. I prefer epoxy because I hate dealing with the foam on fine furniture. I used PU glues solely when building docks and piers and boathouses because the foaming residue isn't unsightly once scraped off but you can't do that as easily with fine woodworking.
> 
> Don't over-clamp joints using epoxy or it can squeeze out too much glue - epoxy needs a little thicker membrane than water based glues but water based glues can't penetrate the oily dense barrier of many exotics. Prep the joints by using naptha or acetone and work fast to glue everything together before the oils start oozing back out. I'm not an expert but this is my preference based on my experience - others may contradict my opinion which is fine because I am not as experienced as many others that have worked with exotics.




Sometimes the foaming which the PU glues can be beneficial, as if there are small gaps.....the foam does not add any strength, but at least it will take a stain....

As for the epoxies, I sometimes use powdered silica as a filler, if there will be any small gaps. I've also used powdered pigments as a colorant....I've used naptha, acetone, and lacquer thinner to wipe the surfaces before applying glue......really, I haven't been able to tell any difference between that and "unwiped".

I built a rosewood dining table 13 years ago, when we moved to Alabama, the top was glued up using PU, and no problems so far....

Larry

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## larry C

barry richardson said:


> both end to end and flat to flat. Probably not as strong as epoxy, but the beauty of segmented work is they lay up like bricks, and there is pretty much no stress on the joints. I have use yellow glue for all my segmented work with all kinds of exotics and none have failed, for case work, yea, a different story....



Closed segment turning is very strong, because of the "brick laying", open segments are another story, especially if it's a very small piece....I've had really good luck with Titebond 2 and 3 for them...

Larry


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## Steve Smith

titebond is the best option for ebony. ebony is not an oily wood at all so it bonds quite well. I have used a fair amount of ebony in my segmented stuff and it works fine.

As far as PU glues being the best for oily woods, that is an urban legend. I have an email from the technical dept of Gorilla glue stating that it is not ideal for oily woods.

My recommendation for oily woods is that as soon as you have flattened your segment ring get it glued on. I don't do any of the acetone wiping as I'm not convinced it does anything to improve the bond strength.

I've used this method for cocobolo and bocote and african blackwood with success.

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