# Hardening Spalted Maple



## Bill12035 (Dec 20, 2017)

Hello,

I've used Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener and it works ok. What other things are out there that can be used?

What's the difference between using the product above and stabilizing a piece of wood?

TIA,

Bill


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## Sprung (Dec 20, 2017)

I have no experience with Minwax Wood Hardener, but I have done plenty of stabilizing. In the process of stabilizing, the wood is placed in a vacuum chamber with stabilizing resin. The air is removed by a vacuum pump. After sufficient time under vacuum so as to remove the air, the vacuum is released and the vacuum that has been created inside the wood (since the air has been removed) will suck in the resin while the wood soaks in the stabilizing resin. After the necessary soak time, it is cured in an oven to solidify the stabilizing resin, leaving you with a nice, consistently solid and easy to work with piece.

As far as the size of the piece you can stabilize, well, you're limit is really how large of a vacuum chamber and how large of an oven you have. But, be warned, if you do get into stabilizing it is very addictive (especially when you do dye work and play around with colors) and the large a chamber you have, the more resin you need to have on hand to fill it. My largest chamber is 6" ID and 24" tall. If I fill it as full as I dare fill it, even after putting the wood in I can be pouring in 2 1/2 gallons of resin.


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## rocky1 (Dec 20, 2017)

I'll buy the resin to fill yours, if you'll buy the resin to fill mine! 

I haven't done the Minwax Wood Hardener either Bill, but the biggest advantage to vacuum stabilizing, is getting better penetration, and doing so much quicker. Most of us are pulling 1 negative atmosphere, or absolute vacuum, we probably get as much penetration in a couple hours as you'd get in a week or more just soaking the piece. 

Cost of getting into stabilizing depends upon how big a vacuum chamber you want, whether you buy it or build it, what kind of pump you buy, etc. etc. There are a wide variety of chambers and pumps available on E-Bay. Should you ever contemplate getting into it, and decide to buy a chamber, just make sure anything you buy has a glass lid, the clear poly lids have issues with the resins we use and you WILL replace the lid on your pot sooner or later, if you buy the poly lid. 

Once you get started it is addictive however!

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Rich P. (Dec 21, 2017)

Bill,
Stabilizing is certainly the way to go espically if you are a turner. I have been stabilizing for a few years and it makes a difference. The key is to get the wood as close to 0% MC as possible before you put it in the chamber. You can work with woods that otherwise you would not have the opportunity to use. Stabilized wood turns nice and finishes well.

If you want to see it in person, I only live an hour from you. Just let me know, I am running low on stabilizer and I will be ordering it soon.

Rich.....

Reactions: Like 2


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## barry richardson (Dec 21, 2017)

I don't stabilize but I have had good luck with spalted stuff (if it's not too far gone) by turning it as well as i can, then soaking the wood with poly, or lacquer, or shellac, letting it cure, then do a final turning. The wood will take a clean cut after this treatment, can't go too deep though or you're back where you started....

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 21, 2017)

Another option for odd shaped and oversize items is a vacuum bag, there are a couple out there that were designed for stabilizing bowl blanks that had been roughed out. IIRC, you drew it down to full vacuum without any resin in it then using a T fitting and a couple valves let it draw in the resin, I'll have to see if I can find the setup for that.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## sprucegum (Dec 23, 2017)

barry richardson said:


> I don't stabilize but I have had good luck with spalted stuff (if it's not too far gone) by turning it as well as i can, then soaking the wood with poly, or lacquer, or shellac, letting it cure, then do a final turning. The wood will take a clean cut after this treatment, can't go too deep though or you're back where you started....


Recently tried that method on a coffee mug that I turned from some cherry that was a little soft. I drilled it and roughed out the shape then gave it a polyurethane bath and let it cure for a couple days. It worked quite well.


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## ripjack13 (Dec 23, 2017)

So what I'm understanding here is, you soak it in the liquid, like in a 5gallon bucket with a lid, for a while?





barry richardson said:


> I don't stabilize but I have had good luck with spalted stuff (if it's not too far gone) by turning it as well as i can, then soaking the wood with poly, or lacquer, or shellac, letting it cure, then do a final turning. The wood will take a clean cut after this treatment, can't go too deep though or you're back where you started....





sprucegum said:


> Recently tried that method on a coffee mug that I turned from some cherry that was a little soft. I drilled it and roughed out the shape then gave it a polyurethane bath and let it cure for a couple days. It worked quite well.


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## BeeHappywoodworking (Dec 23, 2017)

I'v used PC petrifier from Homedepot online only. Ihavve found it to be a good less costly replacement for catus juice. It does not need heating to set. It air drys and is water based. so easy cleanup and almost no oder. I do use a home built vac camber. and homemade vacum pump that get to -28 bars.which is near zero. the big key to it is to let get a much air out of the wood and to let it soak in as long as you can to penatrate deeply. then tolet it air dry four at least four days if using the petrifier.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## sprucegum (Dec 23, 2017)

ripjack13 said:


> So what I'm understanding here is, you soak it in the liquid, like in a 5gallon bucket with a lid, for a while?



Not sure how Barry does it but I had a part can of polly that had been around too long so I just thinned it out a little and gave my mug a good heavy coating inside and out then turned it upside down and let it drip dry for a couple days. I think dipping and soaking would be fine but would take a lot of liquid. Like Barry said it does not go in very deep but will help keep things from tearing out.

Reactions: Like 1


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## barry richardson (Dec 23, 2017)

ripjack13 said:


> So what I'm understanding here is, you soak it in the liquid, like in a 5gallon bucket with a lid, for a while?


No i just brush it on till it wont absorb any more. Submerging the piece would be great, but not practical...

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Dec 23, 2017)

Ahaa....thanks...


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