# Pen mandrel



## Patrude (Jul 28, 2012)

[/size][/font][size=medium] I am turning pens with a "PennState live mandrel and it works pretty good. I am not 100% satisfied with it and been considering "the better mandrel saver" made in Connecticuit. Has anyone got experience with this mandrel and do you recommend it?


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## BassBlaster (Jul 28, 2012)

I use the Wood River pro mandrel from Woodcraft along with the mandrel saver from PSI. I really like that combination for getting close. Once I'm close I make my finish cut between centers. Between centers is the absolute best for concentricity (is that the right word?). The problem typically isnt the mandrel at all, allthough it can be, its usually the bushings. Thats why going to between centers, you eliminate the bushings completely. I have no experience with the mandrel you mentioned but have looked at it. Its twice the cost of a pro mandrel but is it really worth it? I cant say but knowing the bushings are usually the problem, I dunno how an expensive mandrel makes a differance. JMO and I could be wrong. It sure wouldnt be the first time, lol.

There are also companies that make high end bushings that are suppose to be extremely accurate but they are also pricey. Just because you have the best mandrel and bushings made still dosnt mean your pens will be perfect because there can be variances in the pen companants from one kit to the next. Bushings are more of a rough guide line to me. I measure every pen componant individually with calipers and then turn the pen to match. If you wanna get even more critical, you have to take your finish into consideration and turn the wood down smaller than the compant and then build back up to the right diameter. I guess it just all depends on what kind of level you want to achieve in your pen making.

That all being said, there are people who post very nice, high quality pens turned completely with a mandrel and bushings.


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## Patrude (Jul 28, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> I use the Wood River pro mandrel from Woodcraft along with the mandrel saver from PSI. I really like that combination for getting close. Once I'm close I make my finish cut between centers. Between centers is the absolute best for concentricity (is that the right word?). The problem typically isnt the mandrel at all, allthough it can be, its usually the bushings. Thats why going to between centers, you eliminate the bushings completely. I have no experience with the mandrel you mentioned but have looked at it. Its twice the cost of a pro mandrel but is it really worth it? I cant say but knowing the bushings are usually the problem, I dunno how an expensive mandrel makes a differance. JMO and I could be wrong. It sure wouldnt be the first time, lol.


  thanks, but at the risk of lookin a bit slow, Im not exactly sure if I am gettin it right. Do you remove the blank from the mandrel and pull the bushings to turn between centers? do you use a live tailstock cone? I have the psi mandrel saver, and what you said about the cost of the other mandrel saver is what got me looking for some ideas. Regards


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## BassBlaster (Jul 28, 2012)

No worries, we all started the same way and you just dont know unless you ask. Ive only been turning pens since late last year and I was completely clueless when I first heard about turning them between centers. There is a company in Australia that makes bushings specifically for turning between centers but I dont see the need for them.

Yes, I use a 60 degree dead center and a 60 degree live center. The angle of each isnt critical (unless you use the Aussie bushings then they must be 60 degrees), 60 degrees just seem to be whats commonly available. You cant put a lot of presure on them because you can flare the brass tube and crack the wood. I just put enough pressure to spin the barrel.

The reason I use the mandrel and bushings to get close is because I have a hard time seeing what the pen is going to look like without having both pieces on the lathe. I need to get that general vision and then when I go to between centers, the pen has allready been shaped and all I'm really doing is trueing it up. Between centers, you can obviously only mount one barrel at a time and its hard for me to match the profiles like that. Single barrel pens like Sierras, I do completely between centers.

Doing it this way, adds a lot of time to your pen making process. It now takes me twice, sometimes 3 times as long to produce a finished pen. The difference in quality is amazing though. I started selling pens for $15 when I first started turning. Now I'm selling pens for $75 and will be turning some here soon that I will ask over $100 for. Some of the increase is better quality pen componants and platings but just as much of it is the differance in fit and finish that I get from not using the mandrel and bushings.


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## NCWoodArt (Jul 28, 2012)

+1 on Bassblaster comments.

As an alternate method I turn mine down to "close to" finish size then I remove the bushings & install my handmade delrin bushings. They are resistant to CA so I never have the worry of having the bushings glued to blank & they are angled so they leave room for the finish to get right to the edge of the blank.

I also finish sand with Micro mesh with the delrin bushings.

Bill

http://i679.Rule #2/albums/vv160/aerocustoms/delrinbushings-1.jpg


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## Patrude (Jul 28, 2012)

BassBlaster said:


> No worries, we all started the same way and you just dont know unless you ask. Ive only been turning pens since late last year and I was completely clueless when I first heard about turning them between centers. There is a company in Australia that makes bushings specifically for turning between centers but I dont see the need for them.
> 
> Yes, I use a 60 degree dead center and a 60 degree live center. The angle of each isnt critical (unless you use the Aussie bushings then they must be 60 degrees), 60 degrees just seem to be whats commonly available. You cant put a lot of presure on them because you can flare the brass tube and crack the wood. I just put enough pressure to spin the barrel.
> 
> ...


 :irishjig::irishjig:Now im seeing it, thanks, it makes good sence to me and I'm gonna be experimenting with some European pens that need to come apart. Thanks, great info


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