# Turkey Pot Call Tutorial



## BrentWin

Ok guys, as promised,here's you tutorial on making pot calls. I would have had it done earlier, but I accidently deleted it when I was about 3/4 done. (My apologies to the residents of Missouri and adjoining states for the burst of profanity that you no doubt heard.)

This is not the only way to make one. It's just the way that I learned to do it, using the tools that I have.

First, I use a straight edge and a compass to lay out the blank. I divide the blank into 1/8ths and draw a 2" and a 4" circle.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1287_zps65a07f94.jpg

Next I drill a 5/8" hole about 3/4" deep in the center and 3/8" holes about 3/8" deep in the 2" circle. I also chop the corners off on the miter saw.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1288_zpse8e3be7c.jpg

Now I mount it on a 5/8" mandrel, using the live center to press it snuggly onto the mandrel. Yes, I know, I need a new blade on my miter saw.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1289_zps1e2456ea.jpg

I then turn the blank down to my 4" circle. After turning, you will probably notice a little wobble in the blank. I eliminate this by truing both faces with a skew. Normally, taking about 1/16" off of each face will true things up.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1295_zps0f81cba1.jpg

The next step is to draw a 1" and a 3" circle on the face of the call. We are going to hollow out the material between the two circles. I like to use a 1/8" parting tool to do this.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1299_zpseade89b6.jpg

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1300_zpsa8cddfd2.jpg

Now is the time that our 3/8" deep holes come into play. They are our warning system. When you see those holes pop thru, you know to slow down as you are getting close to the right depth.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1303_zps53ac2c14.jpg

Keep hollowing the blank until the bottom is about 3/16" thick. Here's what it will look like at this stage.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1304_zps18d8b9dc.jpg

Now it's time to fit the sound board. First I trim the center pedestal about 1/8" to allow the sound board to drop into the hollow.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1305_zps1c521d6d.jpg

You will have to widen the hollow a little to give the sound board about 1/16" clearance. This is what you want to end up with.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1307_zpsf242f660.jpg

Now it's time to cut the ledge that the friction surface sits on. I cut down about 3/16" of an inch to allow the glass to be recessed a little after sanding. Widen the ledge a little at a time until the friction surface will drop in with a little slop. You don't want a press fit as it will kill the sound.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1308_zps62452b1e.jpg

The next step is to cut the center pedestal to its final height. I trim it down until the friction surface will sit on its ledge with two sound boards under it.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1311_zpsbe1183eb.jpg

Now is the time to dress up the edge of the call, if you wish. You can use the point of a skew to cut groves, round the edge, or in this case, I used a round nose scraper to concave the edge.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1317_zps5c000071.jpg

Now comes everybody's favorite part sanding. I just sand with 120 grit on the inside and to 400-600 grit on the outside.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1318_zpsba1e76eb.jpg

After the face and side are sanded, I reverse the blank on the mandrel and trim off the rim left from truing and sand the bottom.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1320_zps6e0da8dd.jpg

Here's a picture of our completely turned and sanded blank.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1322_zps9ca16a69.jpg

Now it's time for finishing. Since I know that the wait would kill a couple of you, I will continue with a call that my great nephew turned last week and has had several coats of spar. (This can't be that hard, he's only 11 and is making this call for his wrestling coach.)

First we will glue the sound board into place. You need a flexible glue (no epoxy or CA) most agree that Goop is the best. I use E6000 which is the same thing. I use a pointed kitchen shewer to spread the glue.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1326_zpse4461e75.jpg

Now I clamp the sound board in place and wait about an hour for the glue to set.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1328_zps533ff408.jpg

While the glue is drying, it's time to condition the glass. You can thoroughly scuff it up with 80 grit sandpaper or a conditioning stone, but I prefer to use a product named Amour Etch. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby or most craft stores. You simply paint it on, wait about an hour, and wash it off.

When the sound board glue has set and the glass in conditioned, it's time to glue the friction surface into place and clamp.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1332_zps67925c3e.jpg

After 24 hrs. the call is good to go!

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1336_zpsd6dc1840.jpg

I hope this helps some of you get started. All of the measurements are approximate and are not etched in stone.

Please let me know if I haven't explained anything clearly, or if you have a question.

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


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## rdnkmedic

Well, even though the sun is down.........what an awesome job. Very concise. Good pictures. Good information. You are the man of the hour. Thanks a bunch. I know we could have figured it out but I learn so much easier with pictures. 

Great job, thanks again.


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## rdnkmedic

Brent, I need a little clarification. Hope its not a dumb question but I've been told there are no dumb questions. Only the ones that aren't asked are dumb.

You said, "While the glue is drying, it's time to condition the glass. You can thoroughly scuff it up with 80 grit sandpaper or a conditioning stone, but I prefer to use a product named Amour Etch. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby or most craft stores. You simply paint it on, wait about an hour, and wash it off.

I bought the Armour Etch yesterday, very expensive by the way. there are no directions on the bottle. please explain this step a little more. Just a little of this stuff?? Wash it off with a little water without wetting the pot? And we are etching the glass, not the soundboard. What does the etching do to the glass and how does it affect the sound? Can you etch the glass before it is glued into the pot? 

Thanks for your help.


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## Dane Fuller

Excellent tutorial!  I have a few more questions, however...

What is the sound board made of?
Regular 1/8" glass?
Do you etch both sides of the friction surface?
I assume you use the same glue to fix the friction surface in and only glue it to the mortise that you cut into the wood?


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## jimmyjames

How's is the mandrel held in the center hole when your hogging out the inside of the call?, sorry I'm lathe illiterate.....


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## rdnkmedic

Good questions guys. I need all the help I can get. Details. Details. Details.


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## BrentWin

rdnkmedic said:


> Brent, I need a little clarification. Hope its not a dumb question but I've been told there are no dumb questions. Only the ones that aren't asked are dumb.
> 
> You said, "While the glue is drying, it's time to condition the glass. You can thoroughly scuff it up with 80 grit sandpaper or a conditioning stone, but I prefer to use a product named Amour Etch. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby or most craft stores. You simply paint it on, wait about an hour, and wash it off.
> 
> I bought the Armour Etch yesterday, very expensive by the way. there are no directions on the bottle. please explain this step a little more. Just a little of this stuff?? Wash it off with a little water without wetting the pot? And we are etching the glass, not the soundboard. What does the etching do to the glass and how does it affect the sound? Can you etch the glass before it is glued into the pot?
> 
> Thanks for your help.



You will want to condition the glass before you glue it into the call. Without some form of conditioning the glass will be to slick to vibrate when you drag the striker over it.

This is for the friction surface only, the sound board doesn't need any form of conditioning.

To use the Amour Etch, first and most important, clean the glass well and wipe it down with alcohol. Any dirt or oil from your fingers will prevent it from working evenly.

I paint on a thick layer on one side of the glass and let it sit for an hour ( I have left it overnight and it doesn't seem to make any difference). Then just wash the glass off in cold water and dry completely and you are ready to glue it into your call, etched side up.

When you try your call out the next day, it may sound a little thin and screechy. Use some 120 grit to rough up the glass a little more. This will make it a little raspier. Even if you have to scratch it up a little more, it's still alot easier to use the Amour Etch first as it takes the surface off the glass and lets the sandpaper work much easier.

Yes, Amour Etch is kind of pricey but compared to trying to scratch up a slick piece of glass, it's money well spent. BTW, I sent my daughter to pick some more for me at Hobby Lobby and she came home with a 10oz. bottle for less than $13. I don't know if this is a chain wide sale price, but you might want to check and see.

Keep the questions coming.

Brent


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## BrentWin

Dane Fuller said:


> Excellent tutorial!  I have a few more questions, however...
> 
> What is the sound board made of?
> Regular 1/8" glass?
> Do you etch both sides of the friction surface?
> I assume you use the same glue to fix the friction surface in and only glue it to the mortise that you cut into the wood?



The sound board can be glass, wood, acrylic, aluminum, and some people use Skoal can lids. Any will work, but they will all sound a little different. I use glass, slate or ceramic fiction surfaces, but only use glass sound boards. This just reduces one variable.

As far as the glass, I just use regular single strength glass that I get from my local glass store. I usually have 6- 3" sound boards and 6- 3.5" friction surfaces cut for about $5. You can also order them from Brookside, or Grassy Creek Game Calls.

You only need to etch one side of the friction surface.

Yes, you use Goop to glue the friction surface in as well.

Brent


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## rdnkmedic

This is for a glass over glass call. That was my confusion I guess. We glued the glass in and then conditioned the glass. I was not thinking of glass over glass. Makes sense now.

Man, I am slow today. :dash2::dash2::dash2:


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## Dane Fuller

Thanks, Brent! One more question: Does the wood make any difference in the tone, or is that just a sound board thing?


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## BrentWin

jimmyjames said:


> How's is the mandrel held in the center hole when your hogging out the inside of the call?, sorry I'm lathe illiterate.....



Normally, you'll want to use an epanding mandrel. The one that I have is a ENCO 240-3201, which runs less than $6. 

I my case the 5/8" forestner bid that I have drills a hole that is very tight on a straight 5/8" shaft, so I just turn my expanding mandrel around backwards and press the blank on to the shaft. This holds the blank tight enough not to spin, unless I really dive into it with the gouge.

Brent


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## Wildthings

Dane Fuller said:


> Thanks, Brent! One more question: Does the wood make any difference in the tone, or is that just a sound board thing?



Yes different wood makes different sounds depending on the species, density of the wood, thickness of the call and a lot more variables. That's why it's important to keep excellent notes while you're making one so you can reproduce the sound again if it comes out to your likings.




BrentWin said:


> BTW, I sent my daughter to pick some more for me at Hobby Lobby and she came home with a 10oz. bottle for less than $13. I don't know if this is a chain wide sale price, but you might want to check and see.
> Brent



And don't forget the 40% off coupon that Hobby Lobby offers. At the register, bring their website up on your smartphone, click on the coupon link and show it to the cashier - VOILA $13 just became $7.80

Barry


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## BrentWin

Dane Fuller said:


> Thanks, Brent! One more question: Does the wood make any difference in the tone, or is that just a sound board thing?



Yes, type of wood does make a little difference in the sound. It's just like duck or goose calls, harder woods will make a louder, sharper sounding call.

More important than wood is the depth of the call. I make three standard calls. A 5/8" thick sweet talker, a 3/4" deep mid range call and a 7/8" + locator call. With increasing depth, the call tends to get louder and lower pitched.

If you go back and look at the tutorial, you'll see that the call that I turned is deep. This will be a locator call. The call that I used for the glass installation is the 3/4" mid range call.

Brent


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## Dane Fuller

Thanks again, Brent. Do you have any preferences when it comes to strikers?
(You shouldn't have said to keep the questions coming!....LOL)


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## BrentWin

Dane Fuller said:


> Thanks again, Brent. Do you have any preferences when it comes to strikers?
> (You shouldn't have said to keep the questions coming!....LOL)



My favorites are osage orange and purple heart. Dymond wood also makes a very good striker.

And don't worry a bit about asking questions. There's other guys out there wondering the same things, but won't ask.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Dane Fuller

BrentWin said:


> Dane Fuller said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Brent. Do you have any preferences when it comes to strikers?
> (You shouldn't have said to keep the questions coming!....LOL)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorites are osage orange and purple heart. Dymond wood also makes a very good striker.
> 
> And don't worry a bit about asking questions. There's other guys out there wondering the same things, but won't ask.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I'm always on the lookout for unique to the area things to make. I've got a really good client that owns a hunting lodge and this might be a good item for him to pitch to spring turkey hunting clients.


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## BrentWin

Dane Fuller said:


> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dane Fuller said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Brent. Do you have any preferences when it comes to strikers?
> (You shouldn't have said to keep the questions coming!....LOL)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorites are osage orange and purple heart. Dymond wood also makes a very good striker.
> 
> And don't worry a bit about asking questions. There's other guys out there wondering the same things, but won't ask.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm always on the lookout for unique to the area things to make. I've got a really good client that owns a hunting lodge and this might be a good item for him to pitch to spring turkey hunting clients.
Click to expand...


I am thinking about doing the same thing with a high fence deer operation nearby. I am thinking that a guy that is spending $5K plus to kill a deer wouldn't think a thing about dropping $50 on a grunt call with his name on it.


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## BrentWin

goslin99 said:


> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
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> Dane Fuller said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dane Fuller said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again, Brent. Do you have any preferences when it comes to strikers?
> (You shouldn't have said to keep the questions coming!....LOL)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My favorites are osage orange and purple heart. Dymond wood also makes a very good striker.
> 
> And don't worry a bit about asking questions. There's other guys out there wondering the same things, but won't ask.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm always on the lookout for unique to the area things to make. I've got a really good client that owns a hunting lodge and this might be a good item for him to pitch to spring turkey hunting clients.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I am thinking about doing the same thing with a high fence deer operation nearby. I am thinking that a guy that is spending $5K plus to kill a deer wouldn't think a thing about dropping $50 on a grunt call with his name on it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With his name on it??
Click to expand...


Yes, it would have to be ordered as part of the booking process. That would give me all kinds of time to pool together a bunch of custom bands to order from Ron Gould.


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## BrentWin

goslin99 said:


> BrentWin said:
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> 
> goslin99 said:
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> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
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> Dane Fuller said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I'm always on the lookout for unique to the area things to make. I've got a really good client that owns a hunting lodge and this might be a good item for him to pitch to spring turkey hunting clients.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking about doing the same thing with a high fence deer operation nearby. I am thinking that a guy that is spending $5K plus to kill a deer wouldn't think a thing about dropping $50 on a grunt call with his name on it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With his name on it??
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yes, it would have to be ordered as part of the booking process. That would give me all kinds of time to pool together a bunch of custom bands to order from Ron Gould.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Gotcha... from Ron... I was wondering if you had a lazer engraver... was getting pretty jealous.
Click to expand...


I wish!


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## Dane Fuller

I've got a laser engraver. Do you need some stuff done?


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## BrentWin

Dane Fuller said:


> I've got a laser engraver. Do you need some stuff done?



Not right now, but I will sure keep you in mind.

Thanks
Brent


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## rdnkmedic

Bump......Woodlove is interested in this thread. So I uncovered it. There's lots of great info here and it is a wonderful tutorial. Thanks again Brent.

Reactions: Like 2


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## gimpy

So, I have a question, the sounding board, does that lay on an outside edge or just the middle of the call and then the etched glass lays on an edge and glued on the sides, I'm confused...


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## TMAC

Nicely done Brent. Good info shared.


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## BrentWin

gimpy said:


> So, I have a question, the sounding board, does that lay on an outside edge or just the middle of the call and then the etched glass lays on an edge and glued on the sides, I'm confused...



The sound board is glued only on the center pedestal. There should be a gap around the outside edge of the sound board. Start with 1/8" and play with it from there.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Spinartist

@Eric Rorabaugh

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## The100road

Oh wow. @Az Turnings this is almost exactly what I sent you in PM.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## scootac

Finding this tutorial from years ago.....but the links to photos in the first post no longer work. 
Any way to refresh or see those photos? 
Thanks!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## ironman123

I don't know why but I can not see any pictures. I get the message "cannot reach this page" on all of them.


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## trc65

This page is a snapshot from the Way back Machine and I think it shows all the pictures.






Turkey Pot Call Tutorial | WoodBarter


Ok guys, as promised,here's you tutorial on making pot calls. I would have had it done earlier, but I accidently deleted it when I was about 3/4 done. (My...




web.archive.org

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## Nature Man

trc65 said:


> This page is a snapshot from the Way back Machine and I think it shows all the pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turkey Pot Call Tutorial | WoodBarter
> 
> 
> Ok guys, as promised,here's you tutorial on making pot calls. I would have had it done earlier, but I accidently deleted it when I was about 3/4 done. (My...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org


Well done! Perhaps all tutorials should be more accessible. Chuck

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## trc65

I believe the original tutorial was posted using off-site hosting for the pictures. Anything happens to the OP's account on the off-site and poof they are gone.

I think the only way for pictures to appear in a thread now is to attach (upload) them directly to WB. You can always link the address to photos on other sites, but you will only see the link, not the pictures in the thread. 

I haven't used it a lot, but the web archive website can be very helpful in finding lost materials from "years ago". It doesn't have everything, but sometimes you get lucky.


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## scootac

trc65 said:


> This page is a snapshot from the Way back Machine and I think it shows all the pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turkey Pot Call Tutorial | WoodBarter
> 
> 
> Ok guys, as promised,here's you tutorial on making pot calls. I would have had it done earlier, but I accidently deleted it when I was about 3/4 done. (My...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org


There they are!!!!
Thank You!!!!

Reactions: Like 1


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## djg

Yes, thanks for resurrecting this thread. Too bad the OP isn't around any more, I have a lot of questions.

Reactions: Like 1


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## FLQuacker

djg said:


> Yes, thanks for resurrecting this thread. Too bad the OP isn't around any more, I have a lot of questions.


Just guessing...but I'd bet theres a few still around that could answer any question.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## ironman123

trc65 said:


> This page is a snapshot from the Way back Machine and I think it shows all the pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turkey Pot Call Tutorial | WoodBarter
> 
> 
> Ok guys, as promised,here's you tutorial on making pot calls. I would have had it done earlier, but I accidently deleted it when I was about 3/4 done. (My...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> web.archive.org


Thanks Tim

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## djg

OK, as I said, I'd have a bunch of questions after digesting the tutorial. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel but just trying to understand the effect of the variables and methods.

Eight holes? Louder call than six?

The mandrel linked is no longer active. Any suggestions?

"_Now it's time to fit the sound board. First I trim the center pedestal about 1/8" to allow the sound board to drop into the hollow._"
You have to trim it more than 1/8" to get both the sound board and the surface into recesses with a gap between? How much of a gap do you have between the plates?

"_You will have to widen the hollow a little to give the sound board about 1/16" clearance_."
1/16" clearance on each side?

"The next step is to cut the center pedestal to its final height. I trim it down until the friction surface will sit on its ledge with two sound boards under it."
Just confused about the height of the center post? Two sound boards?

Diameter of soundboard? 3"?

Diameter of friction board? 3-1/2"? Now I'm thinking slate over glass as a starter. I'm thinking using a dense wood like Hedge, Bk Locust, Mulberry or Hickory. A softer wood will produce softer tones?

I might have a few questions later. Sorry for being dense.


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## Karl_TN

I’d be grateful if this tutorial had some pics to go along with the instructions.


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## trc65

Karl, click the link in post#30. Original pics were posted off site, but I found a copy of the page on a web archive that includes all the pics.


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## djg

djg said:


> OK, as I said, I'd have a bunch of questions after digesting the tutorial. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel but just trying to understand the effect of the variables and methods.
> 
> Eight holes? Louder call than six?
> 
> The mandrel linked is no longer active. Any suggestions?
> 
> "_Now it's time to fit the sound board. First I trim the center pedestal about 1/8" to allow the sound board to drop into the hollow._"
> You have to trim it more than 1/8" to get both the sound board and the surface into recesses with a gap between? How much of a gap do you have between the plates?
> 
> "_You will have to widen the hollow a little to give the sound board about 1/16" clearance_."
> 1/16" clearance on each side?
> 
> "The next step is to cut the center pedestal to its final height. I trim it down until the friction surface will sit on its ledge with two sound boards under it."
> Just confused about the height of the center post? Two sound boards?
> 
> Diameter of soundboard? 3"?
> 
> Diameter of friction board? 3-1/2"? Now I'm thinking slate over glass as a starter. I'm thinking using a dense wood like Hedge, Bk Locust, Mulberry or Hickory. A softer wood will produce softer tones?
> 
> I might have a few questions later. Sorry for being dense.


I've guess I've asked for you all to give up all of your trade secrets.

Do you have a good turkey hunting forum where calls are made from which you learned. Lot of them out there. I just didn't want to waste time wading through them all.


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## FLQuacker

So here's the deal...from the questions you are asking, you understand enough to make a call that will work. A calls sound has everything to do with it's dimensions and relationships to each other. Get busy, you'll throw a lot away. But you'll get an answer. My tip, it's not rocket science, any call will call a turkey and you can kill him....sometimes.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Gdurfey

FLQuacker said:


> So here's the deal...from the questions you are asking, you understand enough to make a call that will work. A calls sound has everything to do with it's dimensions and relationships to each other. Get busy, you'll throw a lot away. But you'll get an answer. My tip, it's not rocket science, any call will call a turkey and you can kill him....sometimes.


I'm going to quote you on that last part!!!!!! one of these days!!!! At least I am seeing them; too bad they are in my buddies neighborhood where we used to have property and I think they don't care for a sound of a shotgun. have to get that bow out and learn to shoot it!!

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 1


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## Eric Rorabaugh

FLQuacker said:


> you'll throw a lot away


This is the TRUTH! Like Wayne said, you have enough to make a call. The best way to learn is to do it. Tale good notes and you will see how different things change a calls sound.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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