# Bore cutting for control freaks



## sprucegum (Sep 26, 2013)

I went out to the wood lot this am to cut a couple cull trees. One of them required felling wedges to put it where it need to be so I took a series of pictures showing how I bore cut a tree. Not saying this is the rite way but it is how I do it and it works for me. The first picture is the tree after notching. Next I bore completely through the tree and saw toward the notch to where I want to leave the hinge. Then I saw back away from the notch but stop short of finishing the cut. At that point I start my felling wedges into the cut. After the wedges are driven in firmly I finish the cut then drive the wedges in alternating from one to the other every few hammer blows until TIMBER!
This method allows you to keep the tree pretty much under control until you are ready for it to fall, you never pinch your bar, and it allows you to cut a hard leaning tree almost off to prevent splitting.


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## Kevin (Sep 26, 2013)

Whatever works and is safe is the way to go. I added the Coos Bay cut to my toolbox last August when I had a very large ERC with a lot of lean and although my standard plunge cut method would have worked, I'd read all kinds of good things written by very experienced loggers on the left coast WA OR north CA that swear by the Coos. Since it was an ERC and very large I did a test lunge cut and there was some heart rot so I opted for the "T" version of the cut as opposed to the triangle Coos. Subsequently I practiced the two variations the rest of last year even where I didn't need a plunge cut and am very comfortable using either variant now. 

Lots of different ways to fall a tree and it's hard to say a particular method is wrong as long as the method is safe for that application and is properly executed. Sometimes I have even wrapped a logging chain around a large leaner just to be safe. If you ever get close to getting whacked with a barber chair you'll always be tempted to wrap big heavy leaners with a chain before felling. Then your only worry is a widow maker. Or a slider. Or slipping on a wet branch. Or falling on your chainsaw when you're egressing. Or . . . 

Thanks for the thread it will help others try it out perhaps.


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## sprucegum (Sep 26, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Whatever works and is safe is the way to go. I added the Coos Bay cut to my toolbox last August when I had a very large ERC with a lot of lean and although my standard plunge cut method would have worked, I'd read all kinds of good things written by very experienced loggers on the left coast WA OR north CA that swear by the Coos. Since it was an ERC and very large I did a test lunge cut and there was some heart rot so I opted for the "T" version of the cut as opposed to the triangle Coos. Subsequently I practiced the two variations the rest of last year even where I didn't need a plunge cut and am very comfortable using either variant now.
> 
> Lots of different ways to fall a tree and it's hard to say a particular method is wrong as long as the method is safe for that application and is properly executed. Sometimes I have even wrapped a logging chain around a large leaner just to be safe. If you ever get close to getting whacked with a barber chair you'll always be tempted to wrap big heavy leaners with a chain before felling. Then your only worry is a widow maker. Or a slider. Or slipping on a wet branch. Or falling on your chainsaw when you're egressing. Or . . .
> 
> Thanks for the thread it will help others try it out perhaps.



I had to google the coos bay cut as I had not a clue what it was. My grandfather called it cutting the corners first. I can still hear him saying better cut the corners first on that one or you will split it. Gramp would fire a man that split a tree not so much that he was worried about safety as it was that it ruined the log. Those old guys were hard that way.  Bore cutting and the coos bay are not something you will use on every tree just the ones that need it. I cut 3 other trees this morning just notched them and cut them They wanted to go in the direction that I wanted them to go. I will almost always bore cut a tree that needs to be wedged.


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## gvwp (Sep 28, 2013)

I always use the bore cut method on lumber logs. If its a smaller tree that I'm just trying to get out of the way I will use what I call a suicide cut which is what most people use. The suicide cut is basically just cutting a notch on one side and the cutting from the back until the tree falls. Suicide because this can result in the tree barberchairing. Especially on large, high quality, straight grain, leaning trees. Bore cutting clears out the center first eliminating the chance of pulling the best lumber in the fall. Just have to be careful to not make the notch too large or getting the depth of the notch too close to the center. Like you said also gives more control felling the tree.


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## HomeBody (Sep 29, 2013)

I've looked at your pics but can't figure out what you're doing. I don't have much experience with felling trees, only with cutting trees already down. I'd like to learn that stuff but think I'd need to see it done in person by someone that knows their stuff. Vermont is too far away! Gary


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## sprucegum (Sep 29, 2013)

HomeBody said:


> I've looked at your pics but can't figure out what you're doing. I don't have much experience with felling trees, only with cutting trees already down. I'd like to learn that stuff but think I'd need to see it done in person by someone that knows their stuff. Vermont is too far away! Gary


I really don't claim to know half of it and I am sure a true expert would find a lot of fault in my work ( hell even I can find fault in it) we could all benefit from instruction from the experts. 
I don't know about IL but around here it is pretty easy to find one and two day seminars that teach the basics. Check with county or state foresters, There is also a ton of information online but it is always better to learn first hand. Bore cutting and the use of felling wedges' is really not something you would want to try on the start. Wedging a tree is usually done to make a tree fall in a direction that it does not lean. Lots of physics involved the wedge is basically a inclined plane used to lift a tremendous load. Lots of things can go wrong, if you don't leave enough hinge wood your hinge can fail then all bets are off and you better be quick on your feet. Leave too much hinge you will not be able to drive your wedges or the tree could split when it falls.


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## Kevin (Sep 29, 2013)

Dave is right Gary, check with your Ag Dept guy, your state forester, and with any universities or colleges near you and ask if they know of any courses coming up. I have always wanted to take a felling course because I am self taught and I know I could benefit from learning from a guy who has learned from other professionals.

Bore cutting is not difficult though you must do it all right and there are some ways to get yourself in a tight spot.


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## HomeBody (Sep 30, 2013)

Your advice is right on but I think I will stick with Darens line of thinking. He said he don't fell trees he just mills them. I'm too old to do that stuff anyway, except for maybe dropping a little tree. It's more of a young man's game, or a very experienced old guy. Gary


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