# What to look for - Used Bandsaw



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

I'm going tomorrow to take a look at a used bandsaw I found on craigslist. I'm not sure exactly what I need to really look for. This is obviously an older saw. He told me that it needs a power cord and a blade. I'm bringing a cord and an end (in case it just needs the plug), but without a blade, I'm not sure how to test the functionality.

Any tips in what to look for? It's available very very cheap (IMO), so my gut feeling is to buy it if the motor turns. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/imagejpeg_0copy_zps6600d398.jpg

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 5, 2014)

I have that saw myself and bought used, If you put a cord on it, double check wiring for 110 or 220 (most motors do both but Looks like 110 in the picture), I'd make sure the wheels are reasonably true and that they don't need bearings and the tires look good. but even is it needs bearings, as long as it isn't missing anything other than a blade and it's cheap I'd take it. You can get parts for that one no problem and there are a lot of available upgrades available too! If you do buy it, let me know. I have a bag of the table inserts for it I don't use you can have (mine has a different table on it now)

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 5, 2014)

First how cheap is cheap??? That is a rock solid workhorse of a saw. Woodtickgreg and Sprunger have same saw. Tires- bearings are available. spin the wheels- check for play in the bearings- offer him less but that is a nice saw.


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 5, 2014)

PS if very very cheap is a hundred bucks- just buy it.............

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 5, 2014)

Also- Might want to bring some extra money if you can, several times I've gone to buy machines and there will occasionally be stuff they hadn't listed that they want to get rid of, picked up an older delta drill press and a ton of clamps for 50.00 that way once....

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

$40 cheap


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 5, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> $40 cheap



Forget the plug in- just buy it. and make sure there are no cops around cause you are STEALING it.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

I'll offer $30 just to haggle. There are other woodworking tools as well


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 5, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> I'll offer $30 just to haggle. There are other woodworking tools as well



Grab it and RUN, even if you had to put a new motor in it, thats WAY cheap!!!!!!!


----------



## Sprung (Mar 5, 2014)

$40 is one of those buy now, ask later prices! It's a fantastic saw and likely won't take you a lot to get it singing. That one is the wood & metal cutting version, which means you can change the speed with belt changes on various pullies, which would be very nice to have.

At $40, even if you get it home and it's got some damage somewhere, parted out on ebay, you'd make money selling the pieces.

Go, run, grab it, before someone else does! (And do take extra cash in case anything else he's got is worth purchasing.)


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

Im trying to see if I can just go look at it tonight. May offer $20 as is and see if he'll bite.


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 5, 2014)

Just get in your truck and go get it. That is a great saw and there's tons of stuff available for it from the aftermarket. That is an older version of the one I have, most saws of that vintage don't have the enclosed stand like that one, that makes it more ridgid. Even if the motors smoked, I would still buy it. The good thing about it not having a blade on it is you can spin the wheels and see if the run true and feel how the bearings are. Regardless, my advice for the price he's asking just buy it and then we will all guide you to fixing her up.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

I'm on my way to get it. Hope it fits in my TahoeTahoe

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

Wow... Tahoe, not tahoetahoe lol.

Greg, my wife is going to hate you... You're an enabler

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 5, 2014)

That's ok, every other woman on the planet already hates me too! LOL But seriously, you should be able to fix that up rather cheap and have a good saw for far less than new. 
Funny, I'm an enabler, been called a lot of things but that's a new one....he giggles......

Reactions: Funny 2


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

Got it. On my way home. Bearings are good. Didn't get to check motor. Need a switch, apparently there is a key missing. Gonna use a regular light switch. Needs tires, they are dry rotted a bitbit

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


----------



## DKMD (Mar 5, 2014)

Congratscongrats!


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

Idk why everything keeps getting doubled. Tahoetahoe, bitbits, congratscongrats (unless that was a funny). 

So, here are some pics. I took the top wheel off because the metal casing was rubbing it. Guess I need to break out the hammer. When I pull the metal back, the wheel spins and spins and spins... like it's got 10000 ball bearings. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/11BC1303-9F4D-4568-9F30-2B262833DE76_zpsz685hqcl.jpg

Here's the tire (I assume that's the tire... it's rubber and over the wheel) - 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/6C8C0865-1836-41C5-8160-2957A1FF132D_zpsakjevupp.jpg


The pulleys. There was just a single belt on this when I got it... the center pulley wasn't being used. I guess the proper way to use this is to have two smaller belts for speed changes? 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/60518353-E1EB-402A-988F-A2502F05A705_zpsbheoqufs.jpg

And the switch. Like I said, I think I'll probably just replace this with a standard old light switch. I don't know how this operates, and I saw that Andrew had used one on his saw. Surely that would be a good alternative, right?

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/6BFF93F0-93F9-4316-AD27-917BF58C5DD4_zpsywqly8ql.jpg

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 5, 2014)

Now, I'm going to take a wild guess and say this was made in 1964? 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/CF311064-0ABE-4D7E-97E0-29EF41B0B5D1_zpsp60jejnn.jpg

And here's some more info on it -

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/C5D4B771-957C-4EE2-87D6-037D8CAA13A7_zpsi1bnprpi.jpg

What the heck is this? Is there a gear box in there somewhere (Hard to tell, but there's a short nipple with an elbow and a plug)?

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/DDFC8FEA-8A7B-4668-A77F-280F3964C896_zpsummutkru.jpg



I guess I need to get online and figure out what size blade to get, how to replace the tires, and what else I need to look over. I know absolutely nothing about bandsaws except for the fact that they have a flexible blade that spins around. But I am so excited to get one.

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 5, 2014)

Should be a 93 1/2 inch blade, there should be two belts, one from the motor to the middle shaft and then one from the idler to the top shaft.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 5, 2014)

Before you start beating it could be an adjustment-wheel adjusts up and down and tilts so you can get them in same plane. If you go to vintage machinery.com, you can join and download parts list and manual. It will tell you what filler is for. also you can ask ??'s friendly folks over there.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 5, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> Got it. On my way home. Bearings are good. Didn't get to check motor. Need a switch, apparently there is a key missing. Gonna use a regular light switch. Needs tires, they are dry rotted a bitbit


New tires are an easy fix, you can upgrade to urethane tires. Congrats, restore that sucker and it will serve you well!

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 5, 2014)

That's a rockwell delta, you did good, that's a great saw.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

@Mike1950 thanks for telling me not to hit on it haha. After you said that, I played around with some adjustment knobs and found one that tilts the wheel. All is good with that aspect of it now.

I'm going to stop by woodcraft and pick up a set of urethane tires for it this evening. Then, I'm going to swing by lowes and get a cheap blade to get everything tested out. My fear is that if I get a good blade, I'll end up breaking it during the tuning/learning phase. 

Can't wait to try and fire this thing up tonight.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 6, 2014)

When things don't work-people start turning knobs-once that one is right there is no need to turn it. As far as breaking blades- not that easy to do-I have only managed to break one blade- I got it with saw-2002- 3/8's and I had been useing it to resaw hard maple. Usually I hit something or they just get dull. You are going to love having a bandsaw. PS. when my blades start getting resin build-up I soak in greased lightning-the gunk just melts off and blades is usually good to go again.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

Is a 1/2" 4tpi skiptooth a good choice? I'm clueless when it comes to this stuff, and it seems that there are 10 different opinions about each one. I'll mainly (for now anyways) be sawing up stuff like the spalted sycamore that I've been cutting up, some hedge, and various other 1-2" thick stuff. The sycamore will be the only 5-6" thick stuff I think. 

I've read that this saw has a 1/2 horse motor that's slightly underpowered for resawing. I'm thinking that slowing the speed down might be the best bet for thicker stuff? 

I've got a lot to learn about bandsaws. I'm going to watch some youtube videos later on how to set them up... I'm not sure how the guides are supposed to be positioned and what not.


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 6, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> Is a 1/2" 4tpi skiptooth a good choice? I'm clueless when it comes to this stuff, and it seems that there are 10 different opinions about each one. I'll mainly (for now anyways) be sawing up stuff like the spalted sycamore that I've been cutting up, some hedge, and various other 1-2" thick stuff. The sycamore will be the only 5-6" thick stuff I think.
> 
> I've read that this saw has a 1/2 horse motor that's slightly underpowered for resawing. I'm thinking that slowing the speed down might be the best bet for thicker stuff?
> 
> I've got a lot to learn about bandsaws. I'm going to watch some youtube videos later on how to set them up... I'm not sure how the guides are supposed to be positioned and what not.




Don't mess with the speed- blade is designed for speed of saw. Blade choise is fine as long as you do not want tight circles. Personally I would start with 1/4 or 3/8 . Wider needs more power. Videos will help- I have almost the same guides- they are simple to set up- just do it with saw off and turn wheel by hand.
PS. I have a 20" delta plenty of power-1/4 inch blade works fine. Right now I am useing a 5/8's because I bought a dozen of them cheap on ebay.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

Oh.. I must have misunderstood some things that I had read. What I read indicated that wider blades were needed for thicker material to keep a straight cut. I can get 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 at Lowes for $10... just to get things figured out.

What I was referring to with 'slowing it down' was changing the belt positions since it appears to have 3 speeds available. I guess I'll have to figure out which one I should be running it in.


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 6, 2014)

As Matt said -you have the model that can be used for metal cutting also. I am sure there is one setting for wood. Should be able to find that in manual. For cutting you have said you will be doing I see no problem in using 1/4 blade. You will be amazed at how you can split a straight pencil line and with a little time a curved one. Just make sure you get the minimum teeth per inch. Big gullets are needed to removed the waste. If you are resawing to get thin boards there is some advantage to a wider blade. But most of that is in the set up.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 6, 2014)

Just my 2 cents worth, high speed setting is for wood, slow speed setting is for metal.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## SENC (Mar 6, 2014)

Check out Alex Snodgrass youtube video on bandsaw setups... will save you some time and headache getting your blade to track.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

Ok. Got new urethane tires on. New 3/8 4tpi blade (my dad surprised me with them when I got home... He had been to woodcraft and stopped by to see the kids). New cord. New double pole switch. Freshly reset breaker. I think I broke the insulation on the wiring from the switch to the motor when I out the switch on. Gonna replace the wiring back to the motor and see if that fixes it. So upsetting to hear the breaker trip when I hit the switch 

On the bright side, I have the blade tracking true... Just need to watch some video on how to adjust everything else.


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 6, 2014)

Making good progress, keep us posted as you go along, Pics would be nice! No pics? Then you haven't really done any saw work now have you?

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

Gotta run to lowes and get a 2' cord so I can finish wiring it up. Here's pics to show what I've done so far. The tires are 7/8, which is what the manual said that I found online... however I believe these require a 1" since there's a slight gap on the back side. The packaging says that if the wheel is wider, to put a dab of epoxy on the side to hold it in place. Dunno... 

Here's the tire and blade pics. As you can see in the last pic, there is a small crack in the frame? that the table sits on - 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/18BD0296-F4CA-4364-BEBD-901CDD7DDE15_zpspvk3wf34.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/24CFB802-1A79-4A67-A5AF-C5D4A7ED9D36_zpszbyn25gk.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/A01FF77F-0220-41D9-AB01-A08473DD33EF_zpsq2cvtmt5.jpg

And, a piece of wood my dad brought in exchange for a call. It is labeled paduk, but looks quite a bit different than the paduk I have... it's a lot lighter/brighter red.

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/642902F5-8424-4924-97DD-2F736F5A5636_zps5aemxbbi.jpg


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

And here's some of the circa 1964 wiring. The insulation is so brittle, you can't bend it without it snapping. I'm HOPING that I shorted it out somewhere, and that's what caused the breaker to trip. 


http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/C31A8934-1372-4052-A4CF-3E85120F38A3_zpswvw21ipq.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/DFE57086-6333-4E40-B19C-26BE733DEC0F_zpsck6ld8ai.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/F8B22139-E6C4-4243-876E-171FE303FBF4_zpsr05hqb65.jpg

And the new switch (not really very period correct, but it'll work)

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/0578B4E4-6AFD-4CEA-8A57-933C8481DB7F_zpsjvizwnvz.jpg


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

And... last but not least, the motor. I double checked to make sure it was wired correctly as per the diagram.

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/CF781AE1-AF73-437C-ADB1-ACF0B8863641_zpsnsbslbsd.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/F8B22139-E6C4-4243-876E-171FE303FBF4_zpsr05hqb65.jpg

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 6, 2014)

The frame that the table sits on is called a trunnion, But I don't see the crack, I hope it isn't what I think goes all the way across it. That trunnion for that vintage saw may be cast iron, if it is it could be brazed by a good ( and I mean good) weld shop. Brazing cast iron properly is an art in itself. If the crack has not gone all the way across they may be able to stop it. New saws have aluminum trunnions, not as stout as the cast iron ones.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 6, 2014)

I circled it in this pic. It's not all the way through, but all the way across the top of it. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/7671401a-843c-436f-98f7-959a4f6c27a1_zpsd7c7ac1d.jpg


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 7, 2014)

Get that brazed before it cracks all the way through, take it to a good weld shop and have it done by a pro. That saw was probably knocked over or something was dropped on it to crack that trunnion.


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 7, 2014)

Are you sure it's a crack? I'd clean the area well and take anther close up pic.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 7, 2014)

Schroedc said:


> Are you sure it's a crack? I'd clean the area well and take anther close up pic.


Agreed, wire wheel it and see what you got. I wiil say this, oil will run the length of a crack like that, definitely would dig a little deeper. It might be nothing, or something that needs tending too. Either way it's not a big deal.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 7, 2014)

Yeah, I checked it out a little better this evening... it's definitely cracked. 

I got it re-wired this evening. Unless I've done something bad wrong, I think I might have an issue. I got it all hooked up and threw a breaker again. 

I'm pretty confident in my wiring ability, having wired a couple garages and knowing enough to feel confident doing it. I'm not all that familiar with motors though. When the motor on the cheap junky tiny bandsaw I was given went, it just wouldn't turn on. Would the fact that I keep throwing breakers indicate that the motor is bad?


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 7, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> Yeah, I checked it out a little better this evening... it's definitely cracked.
> 
> I got it re-wired this evening. Unless I've done something bad wrong, I think I might have an issue. I got it all hooked up and threw a breaker again.
> 
> I'm pretty confident in my wiring ability, having wired a couple garages and knowing enough to feel confident doing it. I'm not all that familiar with motors though. When the motor on the cheap junky tiny bandsaw I was given went, it just wouldn't turn on. Would the fact that I keep throwing breakers indicate that the motor is bad?


It could if the insulation inside the motor was as bad as the out side. You could always get it bench tested at an electrical motor shop. I am pretty good with wiring myself, done quite a bit, wired many a house and garage, changed the breaker panel in the last 3 houses I lived in. Wired my 3 phase lathe to a vfd. But motors? Well if I wire it the way the diagram says and it still won't work I take it in to get checked out. Either it's a cheap easy repair or I get a new motor.


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 7, 2014)

I agree, if it keeps throwing breakers sounds like the motor may be shorted and I'd take it in for a bench test. If you do go with a new motor take the opportunity to do a HP upgrade.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 7, 2014)

That's what I'm thinking. I'm going to remove the switch from the equation tomorrow to rule out any wiring errors on my part. Going to straight wire the motor to a plug. If it kicks the breaker, I'll try and find a shop to check it out. If it doesn't, I may need to brush up on my wiring skills haha. 

If it's toast, I'll likely look for something at least 1 HP, but I have to stay with 110/115 because of my 'cookie cutter' house having no room left in the breaker box.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 7, 2014)

I'm running 1 HP on 110 without a problem but if the difference between 1 and 1.5 HP on a new motor is slight I'd go that route.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 8, 2014)

Whew. 

Went back and double checked my wiring. Apparently I had forgotten how to read instructions. I had misinterpreted the directions for wiring the double pole switch and had hot wired to line and neutral wired to load, so it was shorting out. 

Got it running. Now time to go through and replace all the bearings and work on getting the gear box shiftable (although, it's stuck in wood speed, so not a priority). 







Now I can take that money I had set aside for a motor to buy a nice fence.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## SENC (Mar 8, 2014)

Outstanding, Jonathan! Cut something!


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 8, 2014)

Been cutting all morning lol

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## SENC (Mar 8, 2014)

Not that I can see. Where's the proof?

Reactions: Agree 2


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 8, 2014)

Still figuring out how to use this thing...

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/Misc/E8B12D0B-A3BA-4ED0-83ED-BF4A8B6461AF_zpsuoc9jozp.jpg

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## woodtickgreg (Mar 8, 2014)

Did you address the cracked trunnion?


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Mar 8, 2014)

Not yet. I'm going to take it up to the farm with me next time I go to cut wood and weld it back. Been a while since I welded cast iron, but surely it's like riding a bike.

Reactions: Like 1


----------

