# Box Elder - Now What?



## Bob Palmer (Mar 25, 2015)

Scored 10 bd ft of 2" square from my local hardwood store. It's dry and ready to turn! Never worked with it before! Will it keep the color? Need stabilizing?? It's gorgeous!

He has a ton!!!!!!!! Got some holly and figured cherry too :) I know....I'm a wood hoarder....

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 2


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 25, 2015)

It'll keep color if it's stabilized... And it needs to be

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Bob Palmer (Mar 25, 2015)

Does anyone here stabilize? I have wood to trade :)


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## kazuma78 (Mar 25, 2015)

Sounds like an awesome hardware store!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Bob Palmer (Mar 25, 2015)

It's a great store! Hit or miss on exotics but a great selection of domestics! Found the box elder by accident....it was in a barn I'd never been in! He had the whole tree cut in 8/4 slabs! He had another tree beside it cut further! I'll be bac if it turns out well!


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 25, 2015)

Did they have any saw blades? Looks like you could use one

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Bob Palmer (Mar 25, 2015)

Not my saw....that's from theirs :) they did just do an Osage slab before I got there! I was a tad late :(


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## Chad85 (Mar 31, 2015)

How are u guys finishing fbe it seems to have open grain. I sanded my last call to 1200 and used friction Polish but I didn't like the look of it with the pores open. Any fixes for that ?


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 31, 2015)

Sounds like it wasn't stabilized well. I've never had that problem with it


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## Chad85 (Mar 31, 2015)

Yeah it isn't stabilized I never got anything stabilized before. I'm new to making calls. I never thought it would have to be stabilized. Does all wood have to or just porous grain wood. This is the only call that has turned out like that. But it is the first turn turning fbe too.


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 31, 2015)

Oh, my bad. Didn't mean to assume. Yeah, FBE really needs to be stabilized IMO. Most woods don't 'need' to be stabilized, but I stabilize just about everything. Turns easier, helps prevent moisture from causing damage, and helps with sound consistency between woods.


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## Chad85 (Mar 31, 2015)

Did u make ur own stabilizer?


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## Chad85 (Mar 31, 2015)

When do u no what wood should be stabilized ? I guess that's why its a good idea to stabilize it all.


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 31, 2015)

Chad85 said:


> Did u make ur own stabilizer?


I got this one for Christmas - http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/gv3gak.html



Chad85 said:


> When do u no what wood should be stabilized ? I guess that's why its a good idea to stabilize it all.


No, that's not why I do it. Softer, punky, and burly woods almost always need to be. Some woods, like cocobolo, don't benefit hardly any because they have so much oil in them, the resin won't penetrate. But, 90% of what I turn, I stabilize. Mostly because it's easier to turn and sand. Quilted maple doesn't need to be, but it sure as heck makes sanding about 100 times easier.


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## fredito (Mar 31, 2015)

That's not a bad deal on that set up. I'm on my phone so kind of hard to see but does it come with a vac pump or the kind you have to hook up to a air compressor? Also, how do you like the chamber? I'm torn between one like that or the ones that are entirely clear


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 31, 2015)

fredito said:


> That's not a bad deal on that set up. I'm on my phone so kind of hard to see but does it come with a vac pump or the kind you have to hook up to a air compressor? Also, how do you like the chamber? I'm torn between one like that or the ones that are entirely clear


The one I linked does have a pump. They offer it as a stand alone, with the 3cfm pump, and with a 2 stage 4cfm pump. I have the 3cfm and it does a fine job. 

The clear ones, especially the ones Curtis makes, are nice... but this one is perfect for me. I can stabilize 9 call blanks and several pot blanks at the same time. The only down side to it, is it takes about 2 gallons of resin to get it up to operating height.. A gallon will go a long way for pen blanks and such, but the way I stand my pot blanks on end to get 15 in at a time, I need about 2 gallons in the chamber.


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## fredito (Mar 31, 2015)

I agree, the ones Curtis makes are nice and he backs them up. I just need to decide what to do. I do like the bigger one like you posted thinking if I put dye in jars I could run a couple colors at once and if I'm just doing a straight stabilizing, I could put it in a jar or pot inside the chamber. Have you ran into any problems not having the clear sides such as knowing when to back off or shut off the vac?


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## JR Custom Calls (Apr 1, 2015)

Nope, no issues there. Probably the most difficult thing for me is getting a weight on them. when you're juggling 10-15 pieces of wood that are floating up, trying to keep them in some sort of an order, it can get a little frustrating. I plan on coming up with a way to drain the juice easier. The way I do it right now is every few weeks I drain the juice in to a bucket with an old t shirt over the top to strain it out. helps get all the nasty crap that settles to the bottom. There has to be an easier way

Reactions: Like 2


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## fredito (Apr 1, 2015)

@JR Custom Calls I was thinking about the floating wood and remeber seeing someone use metal beads somewhere. I googled weighted beads and the first link was for pie weights. They are 10ft long and weigh 8oz. I don't know if they would have enough weight, but maybe an idea for you. Let me know if you find a solution.


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## JR Custom Calls (Apr 2, 2015)

I have weights... I use the cole jaws for my 4 jaw chuck. They work great. The issue is trying to keep 10+ pieces of wood in place while I get the weights arranged. lol. Imagine trying to hold 5 or 6 beach balls under water


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## Kevin (Apr 2, 2015)

fredito said:


> I was thinking about the floating wood and remeber seeing someone use metal beads somewhere.


I've used steel pachinko balls, steel shot, and marbles for weight and also for filler (to use less resin) but the residue builds up on them after a few runs. What I settled on is steel mesh weighted with a 3/4" drive 2" socket for my big chamber. I use whatever is around on the smaller chambers.


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## Schroedc (Apr 2, 2015)

I picked up some cast iron drain grates that fit inside my 6 inch chamber, If one isn't enough I usually drop another in, The holes allow bubbles to flow up and resin to flow down, you can also use the plastic ones (easy to turn down on the lathe if they are too big in diameter) and then just zip tie some steel weights to the top of them


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