# Sealing a burl?



## Nowski (Nov 26, 2013)

I cut my first burl off a Laurel Oak
yesterday. Since I usually don't process green wood I did not have any Anchorseal I used latex paint as a substitute. Is this a somewhat
suitable alternative?
Thanks, Shannon


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## NCWoodArt (Nov 26, 2013)

There is a guy I buy some wood here local that processes a lot of sawmill slabed woods. He has used latex paint and or driveway sealer with good results. Some woods are tricky no matter what you do to try to seal it.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Nov 26, 2013)

diddo on what bill said. Burls are unpredictable at best. Oak is one of the worst for checking. If you cut and sealed it right away your next step would be to keep it someplace cool and semi dry. If it dries to fast it will certainly check. As a rule I mill my burls in the fall and keep them in an unheated shed for the winter then move them to a slab of concrete that NEVER gets sun. I use my garage floor but a basement would work as well. The idea with Oak (or any burl) is not to dry it fast. Heat an dry conditions will be your enemy when drying because they speed up the drying process.


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## Nowski (Nov 26, 2013)

Thanks fellas. I will have it in my unheated shop(except when the forge is going) and I have it setting on a piece of plywood thinking the concrete would soak any moisture too fast. I live in the southeast so dry air will not be a problem haha.
Thanks, Shannon


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Nov 26, 2013)

ply wood is dry so it will wick moisture from the burl. Just a small edit from my previous post would be not to place them directly on the concrete but put stickers on the concrete first then place the burl pieces on the stickers. Air flow is important no matter what. Without air flow you run the risk of mold growing on your piece of burl.


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## Nowski (Nov 26, 2013)

Great thank you I will make some changes.


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