# Fleshing Beam



## bwallac7 (Feb 2, 2017)

A buddy of mine asked me to make him a fleshing beam to help him skin his trapping game. Though this is not a fancy project what so ever, I still think it turned out alright. The purpose of this beam is to stretch the fur onto it giving him the ability to dress/clean it. At least this is the way I understand it's use.

I made it out of a 2x6 pine board my buddy gave me. It was an older board he had sitting around his shop. It had aged and a lot of the knots that used to be there were gone. He provided a drawing which had all of the dimensions I needed.



 

I drew the shape on the beam.



 

I rough cut the shape with my jig saw making sure to keep close to the line with out actually touching it. Once that was done, I took my belt sander to the side grain to get my final outline of the board.

Now, there were several different ways I could have done this next part, but I decided to use an old hand plane that I have. (Still needs to be restored...) I basically rounded the corners and the nose down to a flat cone shape. It's kinda hard to see it in the pictures.



 

Once I got it to the shape I liked, I had a lot of sanding to do. An unrestored hand plane was good for the shaping, but it wasn't pretty. So I sanded away all of the planer marks with 80 grit sand paper on my orbital sander.



 

I don't have any pictures of the other side, but there were a lot of knots that have turned into cavities on the board. With this being used to skin game, I was concerned about blood and other raw material getting stuck in these cavities. So I epoxied all of the cavities.



 

Once that was done, I sanded the board down to 220 grit. Other than the finish, this board is done. My buddy is going to mount this to the wall of his shop on a hinge. It will look like an ironing board for hunters.

I haven't quite decided on what finish to use. I was thinking about using butcher block oil. Any other suggestions?

Lessons Learned:

Board Choice: If this board wasn't given to me, I would have gotten board with less defects in it. I think the next beam I'll make (already have someone else interested), I will use oak. I think oak would be a better choice anyway for this, or it could be worse because of the porous grain. Any suggestions?

Router bits: I originally started to shape this beam with a round over bit. But for some reason it didn't look right to me. I only have one round over bit, which is rather large, but it didn't seem to be large enough. I am not sure if there is a bit out there that would help me achieve this type of round over. If there is, it would have had this process go much faster.

Epoxy: This was only the second time I messed around with epoxy. I don't know if it was truly needed, but I was trying to play it safe. I think having a better board selection would help me rule out this step.

Template: Since I will be making at least one more of these, I figured I would make myself a template made out of 1/4 plywood or MDF. Drawing out the shape on the board didn't take that much time, but it would be easier to trace out the design rather than spending the time the measure it all out.

Like I said, not the fanciest of projects, but something I was able to knock out in about four hours or so. I am looking for ways to punch this guy out faster. I have a feeling I'll be making more of these.

Reactions: Like 5 | Creative 1


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## barry richardson (Feb 2, 2017)

Cool project! does one size fits all? or different sizes for different critters? I think pine would be fine for the wood, and a linseed oil finish.....


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## bwallac7 (Feb 2, 2017)

Yes, there are different sizes for other game. The biggest I've seen made was for a deer. Just use a wider board.


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## Wildthings (Feb 2, 2017)

personally I would leave it raw. Mine is and when it starts getting a little scratched up I take a sander lightly to it and make it like new again

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 2, 2017)

I grew up around them being 'white oak'. The white oak group has tyloses so the wood does not soak up as much body fluids. Dad always had the base white washed, and I think the fleshing run was painted, maybe milk paint, but more likely lead paint back then. Good luck finding knot free oak.


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## NYWoodturner (Feb 2, 2017)

Ben - Your pictures didn't post. Likely because you posted them on a hosting site. You will need to upload them here to make them visible.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Feb 2, 2017)

NYWoodturner said:


> Ben - Your pictures didn't post. Likely because you posted them on a hosting site. You will need to upload them here to make them visible.



I already mention that to him. He said he'll change em over tonite....

Reactions: Like 1


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## Schroedc (Feb 2, 2017)

Find a spoke shave, great for roughing out round overs on larger pieces. I use them for shaping tool handles all the time.

The board looks good. linseed oil or butcher block mineral oil would be my leaning for a finish...

Reactions: Like 1


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## bwallac7 (Feb 3, 2017)

@Schroedc, any suggestions? 


@ripjack13 Upload Dun. They actually turned out better..

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Schroedc (Feb 3, 2017)

bwallac7 said:


> @Schroedc, any suggestions?
> 
> 
> @ripjack13 Upload Dun. They actually turned out better..



Something like an old Stanley 51.


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## ripjack13 (Feb 3, 2017)

bwallac7 said:


> @ripjack13 Upload Dun. They actually turned out better..



Nicely done. Thank you.
No problems doing it? Easy or pain in the butt?


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## bwallac7 (Feb 3, 2017)

Took me a minute to figure it out but once I did I had no problem.

Reactions: Like 1


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## ripjack13 (Feb 3, 2017)

Right on....cool beans....thanks again.


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## Mike Hill (Feb 16, 2017)

Most around here are usually poplar or oak. No reason, not to use pine - but I'd seal it somehow. Might get funky if you don't.


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## BarnickCustomCalls (Mar 5, 2017)

It turned out great. I would suggest using a hard wood for a fleshing beam. My concern with the pine would be when you get to the hind end of the animal and you are fleshing the fat/membrane off the hide the knife might want to dig in the wood a bit if it's not a hardwood. I may be wrong I just started fleshing coyotes this year and I'm not real experienced with it yet. I have a hardwood beam with no finish on it. When I'm done fleshing I just take a bit of warm soapy water and clean it off. Make sure you use strong hinges when mounting it to the wall. I had some lighter duty when I started with and they only lasted one or two coyotes before they broke apart

Reactions: Agree 1


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