# tool ferrule



## fredito (Dec 24, 2014)

I am sure the answer to this is going to be painfully obvious! I am trying to get some handles turned for some tool bars that I picked up. I am having difficultly with cutting a copper ferrule in half. I have been using 3/4 in couplers that I have tried to brace in a vise, pipe vise ect. It seems that when I clamp down on them to get them in half I am squeezing 2 sides making it more oval then round. For cutting I have been using a hack saw....Any ideas? Thanks again for all the help you guys provide!


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## Terry Humphries (Dec 24, 2014)

Copper pipe cutter, it uses a wheel to gradually cut the tubing in half

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Final Strut (Dec 24, 2014)

I use a Dremel with an abrasive cut off wheel to cut mine

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## ripjack13 (Dec 24, 2014)

Why are you cutting them in half? (length wise I assume you are talking about.)

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Terry Humphries (Dec 24, 2014)

Here's what they look loke you can get them a lot cheaper than this.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150933-2136...r&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=pipe+cutter&facetInfo=

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 24, 2014)

you can turn a dowel to slide inside to prevent crushing them if you put them in a vise but I'd recommend just buying a length of pipe and a pipe cutter.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 4 | Informative 1


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## SENC (Dec 24, 2014)

Schroedc said:


> you can turn a dowel to slide inside to prevent crushing them if you put them in a vise but I'd recommend just buying a length of pipe and a pipe cutter.


Or, with the ferrule on the dowel and between centers, use your parting tool. This is how I used to make my own bands for duck calls.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Great Post 1 | Useful 2


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## DKMD (Dec 24, 2014)

If you're putting them on the handle while it's still on the lathe, you can turn away what you don't want with any HSS or carbide tool.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Useful 1


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## DKMD (Dec 24, 2014)

Also, you can use PVC or just about anything as ferrel material. I've even used string of twine wrapped around the end and then soaked in CA glue... It leaves a pretty rough ferrel which I didn't like, but you could always turn/sand it down after the CA dries.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## justallan (Dec 24, 2014)

I'd go with the lathe idea if possible, if not I'd say definitely use a piece of dowel, whatever direction your cutting them and a Dremel works great if you don't have a tubing cutter or your wanting to split a ring.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## SENC (Dec 24, 2014)

DKMD said:


> Also, you can use PVC or just about anything as ferrel material. I've even used string of twine wrapped around the end and then soaked in CA glue... It leaves a pretty rough ferrel which I didn't like, but you could always turn/sand it down after the CA dries.


Nice! Glad to see med school didn't kill off your inner redneck!

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 4


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## Mike Mills (Dec 24, 2014)

If you have smaller jaws on your chuck, just chuck it up and part into with a skew or a thin parting tool.
I assume you are talking about the couplers which are typically thicker than the pipe and have a small ridge at the center.
Or go with brass threaded compression nuts and turn away the hex once on the handle; but the coupler is a lot less expensive.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 24, 2014)

I use a tubing cutter, cuts quick, clean and kind of rounds over the edge. I file or sand the bur off on the inside and epoxy them on. For full size tools I just cut them from 1" pipe and for the mid size tools I use 3/4" pipe. If you buy or salvage a short piece of pipe you can get several ferrules out of a piece of pipe. Tubing cutters are not real expensive and you will use them again, especially if you make more tool handles.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## fredito (Dec 25, 2014)

Thanks for all the tips. Seems like the easiest method to go would be to epoxy the coupler on and use a parting tool to take off the excess or pick up a pipe cutter. Would you bring up or tail stock if you part it off or leave the end open?
Thanks again guys!


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2014)

fredito said:


> Thanks for all the tips. Seems like the easiest method to go would be to epoxy the coupler on and use a parting tool to take off the excess. Would you bring up or tail stock to do this or leave the end open?
> Thanks again guys!


Tail stock yes!


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## fredito (Dec 25, 2014)

That's what I thought but wanted to double check


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2014)

I don't know where it is but i showed how I build tool handles here somewhere. Maybe do a search for it, i'll try and find it later as well.


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## robert flynt (Dec 25, 2014)

fredito said:


> I am sure the answer to this is going to be painfully obvious! I am trying to get some handles turned for some tool bars that I picked up. I am having difficultly with cutting a copper ferrule in half. I have been using 3/4 in couplers that I have tried to brace in a vise, pipe vise ect. It seems that when I clamp down on them to get them in half I am squeezing 2 sides making it more oval then round. For cutting I have been using a hack saw....Any ideas? Thanks again for all the help you guys provide!


Take a piece piece off pipe, preferably steel, and stick it in on end of the coupling and clamp the pipe in the vice then cut the coupling.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2014)

I couldn't find the old thread, it may be part of another build. So I just made a new thread in the classroom, thought it might give some info to others. Here's the link.
http://woodbarter.com/threads/turning-tool-handles.18758/

Reactions: Thank You! 2


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## Mike Mills (Dec 25, 2014)

fredito said:


> Thanks for all the tips. Seems like the easiest method to go would be to epoxy the coupler on and use a parting tool to take off the excess or pick up a pipe cutter. Would you bring up or tail stock if you part it off or leave the end open?
> Thanks again guys!



If epoxied on first I would take it off with a hack saw off the lathe. Then sand the end smooth.

If you try to do it on the lathe with a free end you need a heck of a set of chuck jaws and steady rest.
If using the tailstock you must drive it (metal coupling) from the headstock. 
If the coupling is at the tailstock it will still have drive from the headstock spur when you cut it loose so be ready for the handle to whip around.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## fredito (Dec 26, 2014)

@woodtickgreg that link was extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do it!!

Reactions: Like 1


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