# Building a Land RoEVer



## Brink

This is off beat, and my kind of stuff. 

First, I rebuild at least ten engines a year, X 30 years = a lot of engines. About half way through, I took a real dislike to them. I don't like the sound, the oily mess, soot smoke, DEF, EMS, PCV, MAP and a few thousand acronyms I try to remember.

Four or five years ago, I saw a Craigslist ad for a welder/engineer. Got the job on the spot. First up, a Saab 900 full electric conversion, next, a '65 Mustang convertible. Became the local repair point for Miles EV trucks, dabbled in battery back up and anti-idling technology.

Now this build....


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## Brink

[attachment=27670]

Here it is, a '57 Land Rover with RH drive. Customer bought it at an online auction, and had it shipped in.



[attachment=27671]

That's a Rover aluminum V8, a license built version of the old Buick 215.



[attachment=27672]



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[attachment=27675]

Everything out! Engine, radiator, gas tank, exhaust. This is still useable, not sure if the customer will keep it or sell it off.


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## Brink

[attachment=27679]

Here's the motor. A Warp 11, series wound DC. This is 11-1/2" diameter, 22" long. 70 hp @72v. This one will be set up for 168v. Should develop over 100 hp.
As a side note, motor hp = almost 2X engine hp. This Land Rover originally had a 75 hp 4 cyl in it. Nobody knows where the V8 came from.


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## Kevin

This is gonna be wayyyyy cool.


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## Brink

There's a lot that needs to be installed in the RoEVer, motor, controller, dc-dc inverter, 14 honkin' big lead acid batteries. One small 12v battery for lights and such, on-board charger, instrumentation, safety disconnects, and a license plate light.

Everything hinges on motor placement. It goes in front of the transmission, just like the engine did. All the other components can go somewhere. 

The weak point of most builds is the motor to transmission connection. I prefer to retain the original clutch. Makes shifting gears easier, and can be disengaged on the chance there's a motor runaway. This also means a ton of work. Flywheels mount to a crank flange, motors have straight keyed shafts. Then, the flywheel needs to be lined up with the transmission shaft and at the proper depth.


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## Brink

[attachment=27687]

I gotta put these two together.



[attachment=27688]

Then make the motor connect to the original bell housing ring



[attachment=27689]

Some custom made steel wool.

[attachment=27690]

Taper Lock bushing and hub



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More machining, and mounting the flywheel.


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## Brink

[attachment=27695]

Must make sure there's no runout or off center issues. Vibration is a killer on these, and Rover uses a tractor sized flywheel.



[attachment=27696]

Test run to 2000 rpm, and it's shaking. 

Recheck for concentricity and such, that's OK, dang flywheel is out of balance.



[attachment=27697]

A few holes drilled, and the Magnabalance says its good to go.

Next test to 2500 rpm was very smooth.


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## Brink

Two 1/4" plates will be used for the adaptor. One will bolt to the transmission ring, the other to the motor. 



[attachment=27700]

A critical mounting point. The pilot stub on the motor, 4" diam, has to fit snug in the plate. This holds the 300 lb motor in alignment. The bolts keep the plate attached and resist twisting. Builders who think the bolts do all the work usually have a failure. Nothing like a motor spinning on its mounts, wrapping up high voltage wiring and shorting out into a smoking mess.



[attachment=27701]



[attachment=27702]

Transmission plate


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## Brink

[attachment=27705]

All welded. The distance from the flywheel to the plate is exactly the same as the flywheel to engine block.



[attachment=27706]

Ready for the clutch, then be test fitted in the chassis.

At that point, more framework will be made to support the other end of the motor, and attach to the original engine mounts.


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## woodtickgreg

I have been waiting for this! Thanks brinkster. :hatsoff: Very cool, this is the kind of stuff I love, you and me are very much alike in the kinds of things we do. But this is something I have never done and have an interest in, ev's are cool. I will be watching this with great interest, thanks again.


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## jimmyjames

awesome thread! So your using a clutch? so is it a manual transmission? I guess i dont understand how an electric motor works on a manual transmission, does the electric motor stay running all of the time? Like the idle of a gas engine?


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## Brink

jimmyjames said:


> awesome thread! So your using a clutch? so is it a manual transmission? I guess i dont understand how an electric motor works on a manual transmission, does the electric motor stay running all of the time? Like the idle of a gas engine?



The motor stops when the throttle is released. To move, just select a gear, depress the throttle and it goes. No need to use the clutch.

When shifting on the move, it's easier if the clutch is disengages, like on an engine. The motors armature has a lot of spinning mass, can make clutch less shifting slow and puts added strain on synchronizers.


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## Kenbo

Yup, this is a very cool build indeed. Loving it.


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## Brink

Previous builds.



[attachment=27707]



[attachment=27708]

Saab



[attachment=27709]



[attachment=27710]

'65 E'stang


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## woodtickgreg

Do you sometimes put some of the batteries in the engine bay since there is so much room now. I would think the weight up front would help balance the car and not need to change the springs either? :dunno: Kinda like if you pulled a v8 out of a car and put a 4 cyl in it would sit high in the front due to less weight of the engine........


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## Brink

woodtickgreg said:


> Do you sometimes put some of the batteries in the engine bay since there is so much room now. I would think the weight up front would help balance the car and not need to change the springs either? :dunno: Kinda like if you pulled a v8 out of a car and put a 4 cyl in it would sit high in the front due to less weight of the engine........



Yes, I do split the the pack when needed. The Saab had all 48 lithium batteries in the trunk/fuel tank area. The mustang had 40 lithiums in the engine bay, 58 in the trunk area.

The rover will have 8 under hood, 3 in gas tank area, and 3 between rear leaf springs. The customer didn't want the cargo area disrupted.


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## DKMD

I vote for Ken to send the Hummer to Brink when it's finished for an Emotor install.


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## Brink

DKMD said:


> I vote for Ken to send the Hummer to Brink when it's finished for an Emotor install.



Actually, when I'm done with this, Ken is going to bring his new Jeep to me for converting.


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## Kevin

Brink, my energy level has been a roller coaster the past several months, is there any way you could convert me? On second thought forget that. I just had a terrible visions about what you might use for the battery compartment.


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## Brink

Kevin said:


> Brink, my energy level has been a roller coaster the past several months, is there any way you could convert me? On second thought forget that. I just had a terrible visions about what you might use for the battery compartment.



Oh my, I can go in a bunch of directions with that request...


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## Mike1950

Kevin said:


> Brink, my energy level has been a roller coaster the past several months, is there any way you could convert me? On second thought forget that. I just had a terrible visions about what you might use for the battery compartment.



Maybe a couple sparks in the rear compartment is just what you need.


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## Brink

And that will convert Kevin into???


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## Mike1950

Brink- what kind of range does the mustang have? We have a Hybrid- the transmission in it is a CVT it is odd at first but now I love it.-


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## Mike1950

Brink said:


> And that will convert Kevin into???



Well depends if Terry is at the controls!!! I bet she could keep him movin!!!


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## Brink

It was getting 75 miles.

I set it up with dual voltage, on board charger. He could plug in anywhere. It's called opportunistic charging.


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## Brink

Check out the EV dragster.


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## Brink

[attachment=27773]

Installed the clutch



[attachment=27774]

Installing the motor to the transmission



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[attachment=27776]

It fits. The clutch works. All is good.
This is temporary. I need to work on the front motor mount. Then remove everything for painting and such.


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## woodtickgreg

Very interesting stuff, I am enjoying this.


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## Brink

[attachment=27806]

Miles Electric truck getting some battery PM.



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[attachment=27808]

And battery powered refrigeration units for NYC based food trucks. Now they don't have to idle their engines at each stop.


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## Brink

[attachment=27967]

Started marking out the plate for the front motor mount.



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Drilling, welding and painting.


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## Brink

[attachment=28104]



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Here's the final assembly of the motor, flywheel, clutch and mounts. All ready to be installed. I will be using the original rubber mounts in the original positions.


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## woodtickgreg

That's very cool!


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## NYWoodturner

This is so far over my head, but I am compelled to to keep watching and am in complete awe. Amazing stuff Brink... Just amazing 
Scott


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## Brink

NYWoodturner said:


> This is so far over my head, but I am compelled to to keep watching and am in complete awe. Amazing stuff Brink... Just amazing
> Scott



Take a ride to Brewster one evening or Saturday and see it for real.


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## Brink

[attachment=28138]

This is the final install!



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[attachment=28140]

It's in. Now time to work on battery mounts.


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## Kenbo

This thread amazes me. I know that it is all about energy conservation and that sort of thing, but really, how much power does this electric vehicle have in comparison to the combustion engine. I know that the DC has a ton of torque, but how does it translate. (if you've answered this before, I apologize for asking)
Either way, an absolutely amazing build. Looking forward to when you do this to a Jeep.........not mine, but someone else's Jeep.


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## woodtickgreg

Kenbo said:


> This thread amazes me. I know that it is all about energy conservation and that sort of thing, but really, how much power does this electric vehicle have in comparison to the combustion engine. I know that the DC has a ton of torque, but how does it translate. (if you've answered this before, I apologize for asking)
> Either way, an absolutely amazing build. Looking forward to when you do this to a Jeep.........not mine, but someone else's Jeep.


One thing that's cool about electrics is they make full torque at any rpm, good for smokin tires!


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## Brink

Actually, they develop full torque at locked shaft. Torque drops off as rpm's increase. These motors prefer to be lugged.

As for an ICE (internal combustion engine) comparison, generally, take motor hp x2 and that's roughly the same as ICE hp.



[attachment=28155]

This chart shows the performance data. 
Bottom line shows 135 ft/lbs torque and 44 hp @ 72v and 453 amps.
I'm boosting up to 168v and 1000 amps with a liquid cooled motor controller. This will outperform the original 4cyl, and be equal to the little V8 this one had.


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## woodtickgreg

OOPS! So that was it, full torque at low rpm.......or something like that. I guess that's why I am not building an ev, but they are cool.


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## Brink

No pics, today.

After the meeting with the owner the other night, I was sensing there might be an issue with the transmission. I found a copy of the the owners manual on line and read most of the 136 pages. Come to find out, Rover didn't use synchronizers on first and second gear on these transmissions. So, up shifts into second, and down shifts to second and first can "grind the gears". Upon checking over the transmission, I don't see anything wrong with the transmission or transfer box other than some 56 year old quirks. Very very glad I decided to reuse the flywheel and clutch. Can't double clutch, when there is none. 

I checked the wiring and light circuits, they're fine, just a few minor repairs to be made, such as LH signals don't work, and dimmer switch failed. Easier to do the checks now then try to figure it out later, especially when a ton of batteries are in the way. Also checked amperage draw with all lights and wipers going. I need to instal a dc-dc inverter that steps 168v down to 12v for the OEM circuits. This one pulls 15amps, so I'll order a 25a inverter. 

The fuel tank, fuel pump, ignition coil, fuel lines and muffler have been removed. 

I started laying out the batteries, I have to juggle the placement some, they won't fit where I originally planned, but I will get them in.

Also, started cutting and welding angle iron for the battery trays.

Still so much to do.


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## Kenbo

I hope that when all this is said and done, you are going to post a video of this bad boy in action. I'd love to see that.


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## Kevin

Kenbo said:


> I hope that when all this is said and done, you are going to post a video of this bad boy in action. I'd love to see that.


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## Brink

Kevin said:


> Video Link: youtube



Hahaha, it's a RH drive, too.


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## Brink

Project stalled :( 
But that's ok, I've been falling behind in projects around the house.

I came up with a battery placement solution. The batts I selected, lead acids, are 7"x13" x 12" tall, and there's 14 of them. I've decided to put six under hood (bonnet, lol) along with disconnects, controller, and such. Under one seat will be the charger and the other seat will have inverter and small 12v battery.

The additional eight drive batteries, I want to mount them under the cab, four on each side, looking like saddle tanks. Just waiting to coordinate a call with the owner, who's in Europe, and my partner, to approve the changes.


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## Brink

Started installing the battery mounts. I like everything bolted in place, that way, components can be removed for repairs and upgrades. I try not to modify the vehicle, in case someone wants to switch back to an engine.

The RoEVer has a steel box section frame, around 3/32" thick. Long bolts through the frame will crush it when fully tightened. To bolt up the frames, I like to use Nutserts.



[attachment=29205]

Nutsert and tool



[attachment=29206]

One Nutsert installed.


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## Brink

I have the front battery mount welded up.



[attachment=29207]

This is surprisingly strong, weighs 18 lbs. The mount is also very flexible, and that's a must. When the chassis is flexing on rough ground, the battery mount needs to flex, also.



[attachment=29208]

Mount installed.



[attachment=29209]

Here it is with 492 lbs of batteries.


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## Brink

Front battery mount is finished. It's been gusseted, and brackets to mount the controller, main disconnect, fuses etc. we're welded on.



[attachment=29439]



[attachment=29440]


Primed and ready for paint.


[attachment=29441]


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## woodtickgreg

Still digging this.


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## Kenbo

woodtickgreg said:


> Still digging this.



Greg took the words right out of my mouth. Really digging this.
It is definitely a cool project.


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## Brink

Another battery mount is built and primed.

Just two more to go.



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[attachment=29777]


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## Kevin

That's gonna be one very cool ride.


.


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## Brink

It's been a while. Here's more...



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The last, rear battery mount has been installed.



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I machined the pick-up ring for the speed sensor.



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I'm using the oem throttle cable, so I made the cable mount and assembled the throttle pot.


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## Brink

[attachment=31463]

Here's the general layout, safety disconnect, main fuse, throttle, aux fuses and controller.


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## Brink

[attachment=31651]



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All the under hood components are installed.



[attachment=31654]

These way cool old looking gauges came in today.



[attachment=31655]

This little device also showed up. It measures how much current comes of of the batteries, then sends a signal to the original gas gauge to show the state of charge.


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## woodtickgreg

Very cool stuff, still enjoying this, very interesting.


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## healeydays

Brink said:


> That's a Rover aluminum V8, a license built version of the old Buick 215.



I'm a little late to this party and am surprised I didn't notice it. That little motor use to be a high demand engine for guys who use to do small Brit car V8 conversions such as MGB, Triumph Stag, Jensen Healey, and an occasional MG Midget. I have also seen someone put one in a Miata. It was the base engine for the short lived Triumph TR8 too.

Yes, I know a couple things around Brit sportcars...

Mike B


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## healeydays

Brink,

When done, what is the weight difference between a stock vs converted Land Rover?


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## Brink

healeydays said:


> I'm a little late to this party and am surprised I didn't notice it. That little motor use to be a high demand engine for guys who use to do small Brit car V8 conversions such as MGB, Triumph Stag, Jensen Healey, and an occasional MG Midget. I have also seen someone put one in a Miata. It was the base engine for the short lived Triumph TR8 too.
> 
> Yes, I know a couple things around Brit sportcars...
> 
> Mike B



Mike, that engine is for sale, if you know of anyone who wants it.


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## Brink

healeydays said:


> Brink,
> 
> When done, what is the weight difference between a stock vs converted Land Rover?



The motor weighs the same as the engine and radiator. The other equipment equals the gas tank. Then there's the batteries. They weigh in at a little over 1200 lbs. It'll be at its max payload when I'm done.


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## NYWoodturner

Don't forget to allow for the coolness factor  Thats quite a bit of weight


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## Brink

It is a lot. If I went with lithiums, the pack, with greater range, would weigh 450lbs.


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## healeydays

I will put the word out. What would they want for it?



Brink said:


> healeydays said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little late to this party and am surprised I didn't notice it. That little motor use to be a high demand engine for guys who use to do small Brit car V8 conversions such as MGB, Triumph Stag, Jensen Healey, and an occasional MG Midget. I have also seen someone put one in a Miata. It was the base engine for the short lived Triumph TR8 too.
> 
> Yes, I know a couple things around Brit sportcars...
> 
> Mike B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mike, that engine is for sale, if you know of anyone who wants it.
Click to expand...


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## Brink

healeydays said:


> I will put the word out. What would they want for it?



I don't know... The owner didn't know it could be sold. This engine does run, but there is no longer a flywheel with it.


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## healeydays

Ok, it's a 57 Land Rover 215 V8 with ho many miles were showing on the clock and where is the engine sitting at?


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## Brink

[attachment=31832]



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[attachment=31834]

All the under hood parts are installed, the charger is under the drivers seat, in the former gas tank area. Also made all four battery hold downs. 



[attachment=31835]

To the right of the steering column, I wanted to make an English oak panel for the gauges.

The owner didn't go for it. Said it would look too Range Rover. He wanted metal. I'm thinking, who doesn't want a custom dash from Brink's Woodshop?



[attachment=31836]



[attachment=31837]

So I made him what he wanted. Now I need to find some matching paint.


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## Kevin

You shoulda done it anyway and said it was an accident. I guess you want to get the rest of the loot though. This is a really nice conversion monkey man.


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## Brink

Oops sorry, I used wood by accident. 

Hahaha


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## woodtickgreg

This has been a very cool and interesting build, be sure to let us now how the test run goes, with all the details!


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## Kevin

And a video.


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## Brink

I don't know how to post a vid


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## Kevin

You don't have to know. All you got to know is how to email it to me.


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## Kenbo

Or me.........


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## Brink

Kevin said:


> You don't have to know. All you got to know is how to email it to me.





Kenbo said:


> Or me.........



That be great, now I need to find someone to video the event, and hopefully he/she has a camcorder, 'cause I don't.


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## Brink

[attachment=31918]

Low voltage wiring is going in.



[attachment=31919]

Got matching paint for the dash panel I made.


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## brown down

brink this is way cool!
how long does it take for a full charge? whats the cost for a conversion like this?


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## Brink

brown down said:


> brink this is way cool!
> how long does it take for a full charge? whats the cost for a conversion like this?



Full charge will take about 10 hours. The lead acids will last longer with a 15-20 amp charge. If he went with lithiums, 5 hours would do. 

This conversion will be around $30,000. Cheaper conversions can be done if premade adapters and hubs and battery trays are available.


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## Brink

goslin99 said:


> Too rich for me!!!



Me too, I can't have a conversion for myself, and my labor is free.


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## Brink

Slight setback this week.

The original wiring had breaks in some circuits, uninsulated splices, hi/lo beams came on together, the shorted and sticking brake light switch was wired to the tail markers, 50 years of mods, repairs, and jury riggin....


[attachment=32159]



[attachment=32160]


So, I stripped it all out, cleaned and greased every light socket, repaired the floor dimmer switch and the brake light switch. Put in all new grounds. Made all new harnesses. I put in a disable relay so the owner can't drive off with the charge cord in place. Hooked up the controller low voltage circuits. Wired it so that when the key is off, everything is off, then used the oem starter switch to energize the motor controller. To "start", foot off throttle, turn on key, then press the starter button. This way, the RoEVer can't launch when the key is turned. Also, applying the brake turns off the motor. 



[attachment=32161]
Old wiring on both fender wells.



[attachment=32162]
New harnesses, and everything hooked up.



[attachment=32163]
Successful rewire and initial power up of the controller.


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## Kevin

Nice work Brinkster. I didn't think about all the safety features. I guess I would have the first time I ran the thing through the garage wall. What kind of plate is that - a European license plate?


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## Brink

Thanx, Kev.

I'm inclined to think its a British plate. Its riveted on, and it came from English auction.


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## Sprung

Brink, I've been following this thread, but I'm not sure why I haven't commented yet.

I just gotta say that this project is extremely cool and I've enjoyed watching the progress! Thanks for sharing!


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## Brink

Thanks Matt.


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## Brink

[attachment=32381]

Brand new warning lights.



[attachment=32382]

Finished dash area, and new horn button.



[attachment=32383]

Under the passenger seat. 12v battery, toroid inductor and the dc-dc inverter.


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## Cross Sawmill

Brink said:


> This is off beat, and my kind of stuff.
> 
> First, I rebuild at least ten engines a year, X 30 years = a lot of engines. About half way through, I took a real dislike to them. I don't like the sound, the oily mess, soot smoke, DEF, EMS, PCV, MAP and a few thousand acronyms I try to remember.
> 
> Four or five years ago, I saw a Craigslist ad for a welder/engineer. Got the job on the spot. First up, a Saab 900 full electric conversion, next, a '65 Mustang convertible. Became the local repair point for Miles EV trucks, dabbled in battery back up and anti-idling technology.
> 
> Now this build....


 Could You "hook' a battery powered motor to a sawmill? Any reasons to do it? Any reasons not to do it? Steve Cross aka SuperAX----------Of course We do not know what We are doing; that is why We call it Research----Albert Einstein


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## Brink

Cross Sawmill said:


> Could You "hook' a battery powered motor to a sawmill? Any reasons to do it? Any reasons not to do it? Steve Cross aka SuperAX----------Of course We do not know what We are doing; that is why We call it Research----Albert Einstein



A battery powered saw mill would work. It would be inconvenient to drag it, or the battery pack back to a charging area. 

On a different direction, a motor driven mill, with an undersized engine, generator and battery pack is very possible. In a hybrid design, a 10hp engine could cut like a 20hp. It would take a long time for the cheaper engine and fuel savings to offset the generator, motor, batteries and controllers.


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## Brink

[attachment=32600]



[attachment=32601]

Everything is in and hooked up. 6 batteries here, three under each seat, two under bed. All cabling has been made, circuits tested, charger works...

Motor controller won't enable, keeps giving low voltage error codes, yet I have 173v to it. 

Very disappointing.


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## Mike1950

Des the rover charge when breaking or going downhill??


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## Brink

Mike1950 said:


> Des the rover charge when breaking or going downhill??



Not this one. The owner wanted very simple, so,we used a DC system. Very, very difficult to regen on a DC motor.

Three phase AC would work better, but not great on a lead acid battery pack. They don't like high rate charging.


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## Blueglass

Super cool thread! I just took the whole tour.


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## Cross Sawmill

Brink said:


> Cross Sawmill said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could You "hook' a battery powered motor to a sawmill? Any reasons to do it? Any reasons not to do it? Steve Cross aka SuperAX----------Of course We do not know what We are doing; that is why We call it Research----Albert Einstein
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A battery powered saw mill would work. It would be inconvenient to drag it, or the battery pack back to a charging area.
> 
> On a different direction, a motor driven mill, with an undersized engine, generator and battery pack is very possible. In a hybrid design, a 10hp engine could cut like a 20hp. It would take a long time for the cheaper engine and fuel savings to offset the generator, motor, batteries and controllers.
Click to expand...

 How about making a 110 volt cut like a 20 hp?


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## Brink

Cross Sawmill said:


> How about making a 110 volt cut like a 20 hp?



It would take around 70 amps to do it.


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## Cross Sawmill

Brink said:


> Cross Sawmill said:
> 
> 
> 
> How about making a 110 volt cut like a 20 hp?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would take around 70 amps to do it.
Click to expand...

 What would be the power of a 20 hp dc be like? How much torque ? Would it have lugging ability?


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## Brink

Cross Sawmill said:


> What would be the power of a 20 hp dc be like? How much torque ? Would it have lugging ability?





[attachment=32615]

On a 7" dc motor, the hp and torque comes on at lower speeds, below 1500rpm, the brushes can start to arc, but 20 some hp and 50 ft/lbs torque at around 2200rpm is pretty god.


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## Cross Sawmill

Brink said:


> Cross Sawmill said:
> 
> 
> 
> What would be the power of a 20 hp dc be like? How much torque ? Would it have lugging ability?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a 7" dc motor, the hp and torque comes on at lower speeds, below 1500rpm, the brushes can start to arc, but 20 some hp and 50 ft/lbs torque at around 2200rpm is pretty god.
Click to expand...

 Would the motors over-rev with no-load/ widely varying load?


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## Brink

Cross Sawmill said:


> Would the motors over-rev with no-load/ widely varying load?



With the correct controller, speed sensors, the controller can be set up as a rev limiter.


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## Brink

[attachment=32696]



[attachment=32697]

Went for a ride!


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## Brink




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## Kevin

Brink, I didn't add any text to the post but all you got to do is edit the post to write anything if you want. Here's the description I used for the video itself on the YT site:


_Woodbarter.com member "Brink" has completed the EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover. He removed the original aluminum V-8, radiator, gas tank, exhaust and all ancillary CGE compenets not necessary for the conversion. He installed all the components, circuits, and safety features necessary for a full-on professional electric vehicle conversion. This is a short clip of him driving it just after the completion of the project._


If any of that is inaccurate or needs to be changed let me know. This was a impressive build and a cool thread, thanks for sharing it with us.


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover.



:rotflmao3::rotflmao3:

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kenbo

woodtickgreg said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3::rotflmao3:
Click to expand...




> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover. He removed the original aluminum V-8, radiator, gas tank, exhaust and all ancillary CGE _compenets_ not necessary



Why are you laughing? Kevin likes to talk about all of the _compenets_ that are not required. Hence, the EV conversation.
:rotflmao3:

Reactions: Like 2


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## Brink

Kenbo said:


> Why are you laughing? Kevin likes to talk about all of the compenets that are not required. Hence, the EV conversation.
> :rotflmao3:



Greg is laughing at the ridiculous looking, partially shaved ape folded up to attempt a RH drive.


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## Brink

Thanks for posting that, Kevin.


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## woodtickgreg

Kenbo said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3::rotflmao3:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover. He removed the original aluminum V-8, radiator, gas tank, exhaust and all ancillary CGE _compenets_ not necessary
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> _compenets_
Click to expand...

Compenets? Bwa ha ha. They went to the same school! :rotflmao3:


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## Kevin

woodtickgreg said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3::rotflmao3:
Click to expand...




woodtickgreg said:


> Without wood their is no wood working, mill it!
> 
> The site seems really slow tonight, curser just goes round and round....
> 
> I saw one of those giant yellow jackets in my drivway last week



That first one is the funniest. I haven't had the heart to say anything to you about it for the nearly 2 years it's been there (their ) but now that we're tutoring each other I got your back too brother. . . 

:i_dunno:


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> EV conversation of a 1957 Land Rover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :rotflmao3::rotflmao3:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Without wood their is no wood working, mill it!
> 
> The site seems really slow tonight, curser just goes round and round....
> 
> I saw one of those giant yellow jackets in my drivway last week
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> That first one is the funniest. I haven't had the heart to say anything to you about it for the nearly 2 years it's been there (their ) but now that we're tutoring each other I got your back too brother. . .
> 
> :i_dunno:
Click to expand...


:rotflmao3::rotflmao3: Guess i went to the same school too! Birds of a feather and all that.


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## Brink

Finished the hidden charging inlet.











Blocked off the radiator opening, reinstalled the grill.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Cross Sawmill

Brink said:


> This is off beat, and my kind of stuff.
> 
> First, I rebuild at least ten engines a year, X 30 years = a lot of engines. About half way through, I took a real dislike to them. I don't like the sound, the oily mess, soot smoke, DEF, EMS, PCV, MAP and a few thousand acronyms I try to remember.
> 
> Four or five years ago, I saw a Craigslist ad for a welder/engineer. Got the job on the spot. First up, a Saab 900 full electric conversion, next, a '65 Mustang convertible. Became the local repair point for Miles EV trucks, dabbled in battery back up and anti-idling technology.
> 
> Now this build....


 Do You know where a flywheel housing for an NV 4500 transmission to 5.9 Cummins is? I need one to change-over a 727 Torqueflite.


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## Brink

Cross Sawmill said:


> Do You know where a flywheel housing for an NV 4500 transmission to 5.9 Cummins is? I need one to change-over a 727 Torqueflite.



I have no idea where to find one.


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## Kenbo

I may have missed this somewhere Brink buddy, but with the EV Landrover completely charged, how far can you drive before having to recharge or is there some form of battery charging system built in?


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## Brink

Kenbo said:


> I may have missed this somewhere Brink buddy, but with the EV Landrover completely charged, how far can you drive before having to recharge or is there some form of battery charging system built in?



The battery charger is under the drivers seat. The rear mount plug is wired for 120/240v. He should be able to plug in anywhere. 
Range on this one is 25 miles. Upgrade to lithiums I can get him 50-70 miles.


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## Kevin




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## woodtickgreg

Hey there brinkster! Where you been? I've missed you and your mechanical work.


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## SENC

Welco, e back, Brink!

Kev, what the H is a global moderator? Are you amphibious, too?

Reactions: Like 1


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## NYWoodturner

Welcome back Brink - You were missed !


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## Brink

Covered the batteries with plexi. Can show off the hardware, and keep curious fingers out of harms way.





 
Mounted radio, 300 w amp under the passenger seat.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Brink

With the stereo under the seat, a nifty remote was mounted in the dash. A painted to match cover, held on with magnets, hides the remote from view. Speakers were hidden in all four fender wells.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Brink

This conversion is done! Took 299.5 hours of labor, total. Besides the conversion, all the 12v wiring for lights and such was replaced, the hidden stereo installed, all brakes, wheel cylinders and hoses replaced, and the entire rear axle was resealed. The spare was moved from the cargo bed to the traditional hood placement.

Reactions: Like 3


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