# Sharpening



## Sprung (Dec 13, 2013)

As I've been looking forward to getting my lathe up and running (look for a thread on that once it's going), I've been trying to do some reading and research on how to sharpen the various types turning tools. And, quite frankly, it's been making my head spin.

I really am having a hard time figuring it out, but I think my biggest question is what is the best way to sharpen tools on a budget? As in, I can't afford to go out and buy any of those fancy jigs, or a low speed grinder, or special grinding wheels, or any of that right now. I do have a regular 8" bench grinder and this is the one I have.

This is the set of tools I have purchased with Christmas money. They're in my workshop, taunting me to figure out how to sharpen them so they're ready to go!

I came across this a while ago and I plan to build myself one, as soon as I have the money set aside for a piece of steel rod, a couple pillow block bearings, and a couple pulleys. (I already have a working 1/3hp motor that was salvaged from an old appliance that will drive it.)

Since all the reading I've done has left my head spinning, how do you guys recommend I go about sharpening the various chisels in my set? Good links to thorough walk-throughs would be a plus, since I am a visual learner. I don't have any shop funds available right now to buy any fancy jigs or setups. However, I've got wood and hardware on hand and am very much open to building my own jigs, but I need to know what to build and what steps I need to take to sharpen first.

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Matt,

The good news -- none of the tools in that kit you bought needs any fancy jigs for sharpening, a simple support platform is quite sufficient. (I say this because they are all spindle tools, not bowl gouges which benefit greatly from a "fingernail" grind.)

However, I do recommend changing one of the wheels on your grinder to a white aluminum oxide wheel -- such as this one -- they leave a much more refined edge than the gray wheels. Mostly that matters on skew chisels and scrapers.

Go on YouTube and search for John60Lucas -- John has made some excellent videos and covers many aspects of sharpening, both using jigs and freehand.

Do you have a sharpening stone? I rarely take my skews to the grinder, mostly just shine up the edge using a couple of diamond credit-card sharpeners like these (I got all 3 -- coarse, fine, extra fine -- when they were on sale. The smaller ones also work, around $16 for a set of 3.)

In another post I'll show you the jig that I built myself very cheaply ...

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Here's the really simple jig that I made, copying the functionality of the Oneway Wolverine.

It's a piece of T-track with a couple of T-bolts to hold it in position under the grinding wheel. I can slide it in & out by loosening the bolts then re-tighten when the length it sticks out is correct.

On the end, a glue-up of a couple of blocks of scrap wood to make a pocket that receives the butt-end of the gouge. (Also held to the track by T-bolts, though I could have glued it.)

To sharpen a Spindle Roughing Gouge ... take a Sharpie and ink over the entire face of the ground bevel.

Loosen the clamp bolts on the t-track. Put the butt-end of the gouge in the pocket, slide in/out till it looks like the bevel is resting at the correct angle on the grinding wheel.

Turn the wheel a few degrees by hand -- now lift and peek at the bevel to see if the wheel has removed a stripe of the ink across the whole bevel. If you can't see the metal across the entire bevel, you haven't got the angle matching the existing grind, move the track in or out a smidgin to adjust, and test again.

Lock it down tight when the distance (meaning "the angle") is correct.

Lift the gouge off the wheel, start the engine, and when it's up to speed gently lower it and give a quick twist one way, then the other.

The target is to remove all the ink and as little metal as possible.

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Act III ...

When you've got the distance correct for a particular gouge, MEASURE THE DISTANCE from the pocket to the front of the wheel. If you always set the arm this distance out, you will always get the same bevel angle.

I cut scraps of plywood similar to the Raptor Sharpening Jigs -- one for each different tool. I can quickly reset the arm without having to remember distances or whatever, and even better -- as the wheel wears down, the distance adjusts automatically since you're measuring wheel-to-pocket.

This hopefully will get you started.

Begin with the Spindle Roughing Gouge -- you can do a lot with one of these, and if you can set the platform you already have on your grinder to the correct angle, you don't need anything else to get started.

Be safe. Wear a faceshield -- please, always wear a faceshield. You only get one set of eyeballs, it's a good idea to wear both safety goggles AND a faceshield.

THIS is the one I bought, less than $30.

D.

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Act IV ...

The actual angle you grind the bevel does not matter very much. Sure, a longer bevel (= a more acute angle at the edge) is sharper, but it also loses its sharpness faster because there's less metal there. 

What is more important (for 2 reasons) is that the angle is THE SAME from one sharpening to the next and the next and the next.

Reason 1: this removes the minimum amount of metal at each sharpening -- so your tools last longer.

Reason 2: you develop "muscle memory" for the angle you're using with a particular tool. It becomes easier and easier to use the tool, because your body knows how it feels and responds. If you are like me, then if you keep changing the bevel angle you'll never get fully comfortable with the tool.

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## Sprung (Dec 13, 2013)

Duncan - THANK YOU!  

You explained everything very well - and simple enough for even me to understand!

I don't have any sharpening stones - I currently use sandpaper on a granite tile to sharpen my chisels and plane irons - but I've got some of those diamond sharpeners on my want to buy list. You're the first person I've seen who suggested using something like that on the skews. Buying fancy jigs seems to be what people like to do and recommend. I'll also have to look at getting one of those white aluminum oxide wheels down the road when I can afford it. I'll also have to make that jig you posted. Easy enough to make, and I've got everything on hand to make it with.

Faceshield - yes, that is one of the things that I still need and am trying to convince Katy that I need to order sooner rather than later, as in, now, before I get the lathe going.

There is a bowl gouge in the set, and I do desire to turn bowls too. What's the best way of sharpening that?

Again, THANK YOU! Very very good information!


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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Sprung said:


> Faceshield - yes, that is one of the things that I still need and am trying to convince Katy that I need to order sooner rather than later, as in, now, before I get the lathe going.



Show her this ... (not me, just a random image I found when I googled "uvex face shield" )

http://i27.Rule #2/albums/c175/spacecab90/DSCF0281.jpg

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Sprung said:


> There is a bowl gouge in the set, and I do desire to turn bowls too. What's the best way of sharpening that?



Start with the sliding-in-and-out jig, then to get a "fingernail grind" (variously called Irish grind, swept-back-wing grind, Ellsworth grind, McDonnell grind ... they are all slight variations on the same theme) you need one extra item.

There are several sets of plans out there to show you how to make one yourself -- I made one from sheet metal and threaded rod, here's a link to plans for one made from wood. LINK

A former member of the turning club I go to makes a very simple version which he sells for $12 (or $17 including postage). You can see them HERE.

I think the middle sized one works well for 1/2" gouge. I glued shims inside with CA glue to keep my gouge centered perfectly.

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## SENC (Dec 13, 2013)

+1000 on the face shield. If you can't work that out, pm me your address... I've got an old one I'll send you no charge... it isn't heavy enough to stop what got that guy in the lip, but it mill keep shards out of your eyes and maybe slow something big down.

I'd also get this book: http://www.amazon.com/The-Lathe-Boo...F8&qid=1386972146&sr=8-1&keywords=lathe+books

Great primer on all things lathe, including sharpening, and I think a must read even if a bit dated. If funds are too tight, I'll loan mine to you if you'll return it when done. Will save lots of headaches and expensive learning curves. Tools and accessories are expensive, and you certainly don't have to have all the bells and whistles - but trying to get by too cheap can be expensive, too, in terms of ruined tools, faces and fingers. Tool sharpening, particularly with the wrong wheels at the wrong speed, is fraught with things that can go wrong, so do some studying first so you'll at least understand potential issues and can mitigate them.

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## Sprung (Dec 13, 2013)

Duncan, thanks for the info on sharpening bowl gouges!

Also, I mentioned the faceshield to Katy tonight as something I need as a safety measure. She said, "I don't even want to think about what would happen. Send me a link and I'll order it for you." (If I would have had to show her that picture, I'm sure she'd try and never let me turn the lathe on...) She's ordering it tonight and it should be here early next week! Score

Henry, that looks like a good book. I looked on our library's website, and they don't have it and it doesn't like I can get it on inter-library loan. Since I can't get it through the library, I asked Katy if she'd buy that book for me too and she's going to order it for me. Score again! (Thank you, BTW, for the offer on the faceshield and on the book loan if I couldn't get them soon!)

Thank you both for the advice and information. I definitely don't want to jump in and do something stupid, or many things stupid. I've been watching some videos on Youtube lately, as well as reading around, and will continue to do so. And I will certainly ask here any questions I might have but can't find the answer to - the advice given here is always top notch.

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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Matt, sounds like Katy is a wonderful lady ... your part of the bargain is to always use the safety gear.

I forgot to mention, there are 2 turning clubs in ND, I think the one that meets in Fargo is likely to be closer -- Minn-Dak Woodturners Association

Turners always enjoy introducing newbies to the hobby, and there may be somebody who lives closer to you than Fargo who'd be willing to help get you started with advice, pointers, etc. Videos can be instructive, but in my opinion nothing beats having an experienced turner at your side showing you a better stance, how to angle the tool, etc.

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## SENC (Dec 13, 2013)

Best way to protect yourself, whether at the lathe or the grinder, is to stay out of the line of fire - plan your angle of attack. It isn't failsafe, as rapidly spinning things do odd stuff and ricochet off other things when they explode, and you can't/won't always be able to avoid being directly in front of the piece... but be conscious of the risk and minimize it. Proper equipment use trumps all else, then safe practice (line of fire, no loose clothing/gloves, etc) then safety equipment like face shields. The last is terribly important, just don't let yourself get lulled into false sense of security (we all do). Good luck!

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## Sprung (Dec 13, 2013)

I wasn't aware of a turning club in Fargo. Thanks for the link. That's only 60 miles from me, which, by North Dakota standards, is pretty much right down the street. Looks like I just missed their meeting for this month by a day, but I'll have to try and see about attending their next meeting.


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## duncsuss (Dec 13, 2013)

Sprung said:


> I wasn't aware of a turning club in Fargo. Thanks for the link. That's only 60 miles from me, which, by North Dakota standards, is pretty much right down the street. Looks like I just missed their meeting for this month by a day, but I'll have to try and see about attending their next meeting.


I figured that would be closer to you than Bismarck ... but they are meeting tomorrow at 9am ... http://www.dakotawoodturners.com/ Better get to bed early if you're going to get there in time


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## Sprung (Dec 13, 2013)

duncsuss said:


> I figured that would be closer to you than Bismarck ... but they are meeting tomorrow at 9am ... http://www.dakotawoodturners.com/ Better get to bed early if you're going to get there in time



Bismarck is only 2 hours away - not too bad either. (I do a lot of driving, so sometimes an hour or two in the car isn't bothersome, sometimes even feels like a short drive. Plus we have a very nice speed limit of 75mph on the expressway out here! I hate heading east and driving through states with slower speed limits...)

I've got a funeral to be at tomorrow morning in the opposite direction, otherwise I'd consider showing up there in the morning!


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## Sprung (Dec 19, 2013)

Thought I'd give a little update on the sharpening thing. I had a chance to get some shop time in this morning and decided to work on sharpening stuff, much to the annoyance of my wife who would have preferred me to get some coats of finish on stuff. But, I needed some sawdust therapy, and finishing isn't my favorite thing in the world to do, so I did what I wanted to do.

Here's the progress I made this morning on duplicating Duncan's sharpening setup. The tool holder that will attach to the end of the t-track is currently in clamps while the glue dries. Once that's done, I'll work on the jig to sharpen the bowl gouge.

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## duncsuss (Dec 19, 2013)

Looking good ... are you sure that the first thing after the holder is to start on the bowl gouge fingernail jig?

Personally, I'd be calibrating it to my spindle roughing gouge and doing some "sharpening tests" (which of course require spinning some wood and making shavings so you can make it blunt again )

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## Mike Mills (Dec 19, 2013)

Here's a jig Capt Eddie shows how to make.
If I made one I would spring for another 25 cents and get a straight coupler for the pipe. Cut the coupler into and glue over each end. This would give a lot more thickness for tapping.

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## Sprung (Dec 19, 2013)

Duncan - I may not be making the bowl gouge sharpening jig immediately following - but it will be the next step in the jig making. Even though I said it's next, knowing me, it'll take me a little while to get around to it, lol! I will most assuredly be trying out the first jig first and getting sharpening with it down! (Besides, I want to get a little practice in before I give bowls a try.)

Mike - I'll have to check out that video later. I've been watching a number of Capt Eddie's videos, but haven't watched that one yet. His videos have been very informational. (I'm at the point where I wish I could put a computer in the shop so I can watch videos down there, lol!)


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## duncsuss (Dec 19, 2013)

So my method for the spindle roughing gouge is as follows: if you like the angle that's on it now, do the following:

1) the grinder is OFF
2) get a Sharpie marker pen and paint it all over the ground bevel of the tool
3) rest the butt end of the tool in the pocket on the jig slide-arm, lean the bevel against the wheel, and then slide the arm backwards & forwards "till it looks about right", and semi-lock the clamps
4) by hand, rotate the wheel just a couple of inches, then lift the tool off and look at where it has scratched away the ink from the Sharpie
5) Inspect the bevel to see where the wheel has removed the ink ...

-- If the shiny metal line is visible all the way across the bevel, your arm is set to perfectly replicate the grind on the tool. Move on to step (6)
-- If there is still ink at the tip of the tool, it means your arm is too short; if there's still ink towards the handle side, it means your arm is too long.
-- -- Repaint the bevel using the Sharpie, adjust the arm length slightly, and repeat from step (4)

6) Put the butt of the tool in the pocket, lift the nose about 1" above the wheel, and fire her up. When it's at speed, lower the bevel gently onto the wheel and give it a twist to the left, then back to center and give it a twist to the right.
7) Lift off the grinder, look at the bevel -- if all the ink is gone (which it should be), you have a sharp tool.

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## duncsuss (Dec 19, 2013)

Huh ... just realized I already wrote this method earlier in the thread. How come nobody mentioned that while I was typing it out _for the second time ... ???_

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## SENC (Dec 20, 2013)

Mainly because we're all kind, gentle folk here who don't like to rib other contributors' "senior moments".



Either that or in our own senior moments none of us realized it was deja vu all over again.

Or it was so brilliant it was worth hearing twice.

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