# Burl Hollow Form Experts - Mounting Help Needed



## Steve in VA (May 27, 2021)

I've never turned a burl before, but picked one up from a guy that was throwing a bunch of wood away and thought I'd just go for it. I'm going very slow given the voids, but so far so good. I'll post a few pics of what it was like to begin with and where I'm at now, but I really need some advice & options for mounting it so I can continue turning it further.

In the last two pics, you can see the void that extends from the side into and through the bottom. I don't believe there is enough stable wood for a tenon or faceplate. I could keep turning for a bit between centers, but want to sleep on it for the final shape and design. What I don't know and would love some advice on is how to proceed with mounting it more securely so I can turn it around when it comes time to hollow it out. 

Any other tips, tricks, and advice more than welcomed!

Thanks in advance!

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 1


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## Eric Rorabaugh (May 27, 2021)

@barry richardson
@Nubsnstubs


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## Nubsnstubs (May 27, 2021)

It looks like your tenon is at least 90% round. For me, that's enough to continue on. If the bottom of that piece will give you a 100% round by removing another 1/4" in depth or length, I say go ahead and make it totally round and then start hollowing. What is your tenon diameter? ........ Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Steve in VA (May 28, 2021)

Nubsnstubs said:


> It looks like your tenon is at least 90% round. For me, that's enough to continue on. If the bottom of that piece will give you a 100% round by removing another 1/4" in depth or length, I say go ahead and make it totally round and then start hollowing. What is your tenon diameter? ........ Jerry (in Tucson)



Thanks Jerry! What appears to be a tenon is just the "Nub" (sorry, couldn't help myself) that I left on for the live center to get to this point. It's only about 1.25" in diameter. My concern is if I cut a real tenon it will get into that void way to much and not provide any grip on 25% of the diameter. 

I was thinking last night about a few solutions. One would be to use a glue block to provide more surface area contact. The other was to tape up the bottom of the void and use some epoxy to create a solid bottom. Unfortunately I don't have a pressure pot but I was thinking that even 3/4" up from the bottom would make a dramatic difference. 

One last option would be a design change and cut a tenon or use a faceplate on the side that is currently facing the headstock. It appears to be a bit more solid and in looking at it this morning I think that may the way I go. 

Keep the advice coming.....before I get too far

Reactions: Like 1


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## barry richardson (May 28, 2021)

Could you put the tennon on the other end?


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## Steve in VA (May 28, 2021)

barry richardson said:


> Could you put the tennon on the other end?



Thanks Barry! 

I decided to go in that direction but instead of a tenon I put a faceplate on it. It now going to be a bit smaller, but I feel a lot more comfortable with it mounted this way. Appreciate the advice and it's coming along nicely, at least on the outside. The inside's going to be an adventure!

Reactions: Like 1


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## trc65 (May 28, 2021)

No advice, just following along trying to learn. If you can, would love to see progress pics as you proceed with this piece.


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## Steve in VA (May 28, 2021)

You bet Tim and I'd love some comments & advice along the way as well as this is trial by fire. I didn't get nearly as much time as I wanted on it this afternoon, but here's where I'm at now. I turned the piece completely around, faced off the end until it was flat, and installed a faceplate. I've now got it roughly shaped. The top is where I'd like it to be, but I left the base a bit heavier to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. I also drilled a 1" hole about half way down, again wanting to leave some meat on the bone for hollowing. 

One issue came up that I've never experienced before and I'm pretty pissed about it. I used some thin CA (Starbond) on some of the cracks, voids, and inclusions to hopefully help hold it together and provide some more stability for hollowing. I let it soak for 2-3 minutes and then hit it with accelerator (Starbond) and it clouded up quite a bit; see last pic. Anyone experience that before? If so, any clue as to why it happened or, better yet, do you have a solution for it?

Reactions: Like 2


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## T. Ben (May 28, 2021)

I have had that happen with ca,don’t know why or how to avoid it. Well that didn’t help.


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## vegas urban lumber (May 28, 2021)

moisture or humidity can cause that


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## trc65 (May 28, 2021)

I don't know for sure on the CA, but I always seem to get that when I have more than just a very thin layer of CA. If I let it sit for a while, and really soak in before hitting it with accelerator I see less of that occurring. 

No idea on solution, maybe applying some de-bonding solvent, mopping it up, letting everything dry and proceed with finishing? Don't know the chemistry involved, but seems like it could work. Or, it might just leave a semi-hardened mess. Definitely try on scrap first if you are going to try that.

BTW, you've got a really nice looking form there. It's taken me a long time but I'm slowly learning that size isn't everything, and sacrificing size for quality or safety is usually best.


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## Steve in VA (May 29, 2021)

vegas urban lumber said:


> moisture or humidity can cause that


I did a little research last night and the general consensus is, as Trev said, moisture in the wood or high humidity in the air can cause it. The other thing that came up was putting on subsequent coats before the previous coat was completely cured. My gut is my issue was probably due to humidity in the air as we did have some storms roll through yesterday afternoon and it was just starting to rain when this happened.

I did see a few comments where a torch flame would take the cloudy / milky look away. Being one that's always looking for a excuse to use fire, I brought the propane torch out this morning just to give it a shot. Sure enough, it worked for the most part. I was a little hesitant to get too much heat in the voids as the bark was catching quickly, so I was very cautious and didn't want to go too far with it but it definitely works. 

I'll see how things progress on this piece before spending more time on the milkiness and, if everything else works out, will probably get a mini torch to touch up the deep parts. Stay tuned for more!

Reactions: Like 1


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## vegas urban lumber (May 29, 2021)

just be sure not to breath any fumes from heating CA


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## Steve in VA (May 29, 2021)

Thanks Trev!

We have a break through! I'm not sure how aggressive I want to be with thinning this out? 

One thing I've found is it's nice to have a void for both clearing out shavings as well as seeing exactly where the cutter is. Taking a break to think through next steps.

Reactions: Like 2


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## barry richardson (May 29, 2021)

Looking good, good info.on the CA, I have had that problem too, and it is certainly not because of humidity here in AZ. I have heard that using too much accelerator can cloud it too. If your concerned about losing pieces, put some.stretch wrap around the outside when you hollow. It's safer too....

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## Steve in VA (May 29, 2021)

barry richardson said:


> Looking good, good info.on the CA, I have had that problem too, and it is certainly not because of humidity here in AZ. I have heard that using too much accelerator can cloud it too. If your concerned about losing pieces, put some.stretch wrap around the outside when you hollow. It's safer too....



Thanks Barry and I had it wrapped up. Just took it off for the pic and to step back to look at it and ponder my next steps.

I know it's hard not seeing it in person, but is there a thickness or even a range you shoot for? Any guidelines you follow to know when to call it good?


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## Steve in VA (May 29, 2021)

For those following along, we're now in the design collaboration phase of this Team Wood Barter effort!

What do you say about the top rim? Keep it as is? Same design, but a tad smaller? Or round it over completely for a smooth transition? 

I cleaned up the bottom at bit and rough sanded to 180. The base will eventually be a bit smaller as well. A wise @barry richardson told me to go smaller on the base until it looks good on the lathe, then keep going smaller! That will be my final cut. 

Had to add some water just to wet my and your appetites. Couldn't resist any longer!!

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## trc65 (May 29, 2021)

I kind of like the rim the way it is. The angularity provides a nice counter point to the curves. If you wanted to "lighten" it up a bit, how about making the top angular line into a cove?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## barry richardson (May 29, 2021)

The top treatment looks good to me. As for thickness, as thin as you can get away with, but I personally don't go any thinner than about a 1/4" , and often not that thin if it seems perilous...


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## Steve in VA (May 30, 2021)

Good advice Barry! 

I'm at 3/8" thick and about 2/3 of the way down. We're going to the Chesapeake Bay for the rest of the weekend, so your regularly scheduled program will continue on Monday night. 

Thanks for the advice everyone and enjoy your weekend! Thanks to all that have served!!

Reactions: Like 3


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## Steve in VA (Jun 1, 2021)

Got a bit of garage time this evening and made a bit more progress:

I finished (I think) turing the outside to its final shape, unless the gang thinks I need to go smaller yet on the base? 
I touched up the rim a bit. Same basic shape but just made the overall profile a tad smaller and softened the edges a bit. Speak now.....
I hollowed out the inside as much as I think I want to go. It's just under 3/8" almost the entire way to the base. I have one spot at the very edge of the shoulder I just can't seem to get to. I doubt anyone will will notice but me, but it's ever so slightly thicker there. I did lose a piece of bark from that area, so I'm not tempting fate and I'm calling it quits at the shoulder.
The inside is fairly smooth, though I think I'll spend some time sanding it before parting it off since it is fairly visible. 
All comments, constructive criticism, suggestions, and advice on next steps are very welcome! I doubt I'll get much time to spend on it tomorrow, so you have a day to think about it

Reactions: EyeCandy! 3 | Way Cool 4 | Informative 1


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## trc65 (Jun 1, 2021)

Great looking piece Steve! Don't think I'd change a thing.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## T. Ben (Jun 2, 2021)

Looks great,will be looking forward to seeing it finished.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 2, 2021)

The proportions look spot on to me. Very cool piece.


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## barry richardson (Jun 2, 2021)

Looks great Steve! Please let us see it after the finish is on.....


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## Barb (Jun 2, 2021)

That looks awesome!


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## Steve in VA (Jun 3, 2021)

Did some final sanding this morning and just parted it off and got the first coat of oil on it. More pics to come once it's completely finished. I wanted to keep you all in the loop as this was a collaboration from all of you that have helped me along the way. 

Thank you!!

Reactions: EyeCandy! 5 | Way Cool 4


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 3, 2021)

Wow wow wow!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Barb (Jun 3, 2021)

Beautiful!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Gdurfey (Jun 3, 2021)

Lot smaller than I was thinking it was. Gorgeous piece, wish I could see it in person!!


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## trc65 (Jun 3, 2021)

Fantastic! Love how a piece looks when you get that first coat of finish on and it's still wet. 

May have been a collaboration of ideas put forth, but the execution and decisions were all yours, well done!

Reactions: Agree 3 | Great Post 1


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## T. Ben (Jun 4, 2021)




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## DKMD (Jun 4, 2021)

Great job! That’s a beauty!


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## Steve in VA (Jun 4, 2021)

Thanks everyone!

@Gdurfey - Garry, the piece is 5.25" tall and 4.5" in diameter at the shoulder. I'd like to gradually work my way up to larger pieces, but things in this general range are great practice for me.

Reactions: Like 2


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