# Ripping Chain



## Graybeard (Jun 25, 2015)

Thought I'd call Bailey's and see about a ripping chain for my saw. After taking my name, address, phone number, email we finally got around to figuring out what chain I needed. Stihl 029 with an 18 inch bar. The rest were numbers I don't understand that were written on the bar. She looked it up and said it's a (numbers) and it costs $17. We won't have them on hand until the end of July. Called Grandburg and was on hold for about 5 minutes, I hung up because I had to go outside and take a leak.
Graybeard


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## Kevin (Jun 25, 2015)

I just got back from one of the small engine shops and they are totally out of chain. But they had 10 pairs of .404 presets so I am breaking out my breaker and spinner to cobble together a chain for my 4 1/2 foot bar from two bad chains (bent). I did also find a 3/8 x .063 loop at the Stihl dealer for my 3 foot bar but it is 114 links and I need a 115 so between everything maybe I can get a couple chains together.


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## Graybeard (Jun 25, 2015)

Well you know a heck of a lot more about this stuff than I do. Hope you get what you need.
I'm having a discussion with some guys that saw up turning blanks and use the same chain for both cross cutting and ripping. I'm not sure they realize it's two different cuts. Of course the standard chain will work but I was curious about trying a ripping chain. I may just file an old chain I have on hand to the 10 degree angle and give it a shot.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 25, 2015)

Ripping chain is really only needed for milling with long bars. For your 18 incher I wouldn't really even mess with it, but if you really want to play with it try about a 16 degree angle as it's a good compromise. 10 degrees will cut very slow and produce a lot of fine dust.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Graybeard (Jun 25, 2015)

Thanks Greg. Am I correct when I say there are two cuts, a cross cut and a rip cut?
Probably one of the oldest guys here but with the least chainsaw experience.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 25, 2015)

Graybeard said:


> Thanks Greg. Am I correct when I say there are two cuts, a cross cut and a rip cut?
> Probably one of the oldest guys here but with the least chainsaw experience.


Yes you are correct. A rip cut with a standard chain will make long chips that will plug the clutch cover with chips and tax the saw as it is pulling such long chips. It can be done with a standard chain just feed it slow. That is why folks change the cutter angle so it makes smaller chips and is easier for the saw to clear and doesn't make it so hard for the saw to pull the chain through the cut. For occasional cuts like making bowl blanks I would just stick with the standard chain and feed it slower.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2 | Great Post 1


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## Kevin (Jun 25, 2015)

woodtickgreg said:


> A rip cut with a standard chain will make long chips



Better known as "noodling" or "making french fries". 

Greg your explanation to David was so lucid, I am beginning to think you have achieved "clear" like that guy who flew those F-14 Tomcats back in the 80s . . . . .


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## justallan (Jun 25, 2015)

I would agree 100% with running a stock chain and just take your time. If you have an extra chain or buy one because you just absolutely have to see the difference yourself I say go for it, but unless you are doing bunches and bunches of turning blanks I doubt you find it worthwhile.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 25, 2015)

Kevin said:


> Better known as "noodling" or "making french fries".
> 
> Greg your explanation to David was so lucid, I am beginning to think you have achieved "clear" like that guy who flew those F-14 Tomcats back in the 80s . . . . .


I call it spaghetti!


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## David Hill (Jun 26, 2015)

I've bought and used Ripping chains on my 20 inch saws and believe they _*do*_ make a difference. I keep a ripping chain on one saw and a regular crosscut on the other. Have had good luck with ebay for getting them. Yes they do have a tendency to kick back, so caution is in order.


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