# Sawzall Redo



## Woodman (Mar 11, 2016)

Both of these blades were ground from one 12" sawzall blade. The handle on the top is hard maple crotch. On the bottom is spalted hard maple. 
The smaller blade has what looks like filework on the spine but it's just that I didn't grind the teeth all the way off. The finish is Minwax Tung Oil.
http://i594.Rule #2/albums/tt28/lakeridge3/100_17401_zpsyga8zr1l.jpg

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 3


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## Kevin (Mar 11, 2016)

Waste not want not. Cool knives.


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## Schroedc (Mar 11, 2016)

Woodman said:


> Both of these blades were ground from one 12" sawzall blade. The handle on the top is hard maple crotch. On the bottom is spalted hard maple.
> The smaller blade has what looks like filework on the spine but it's just that I didn't grind the teeth all the way off. The finish is Minwax Tung Oil.
> http://i594.Rule #2/albums/tt28/lakeridge3/100_17401_zpsyga8zr1l.jpg



They must be sharp judging by all the blood on your ruler?  I like those, might have to ive a go at trying some one of these days. I have a box full of blades that are only wore out in the first inch....

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Woodman (Mar 11, 2016)

Colin, test your blades for hardness(spark test or whack them real good with a punch and 3 pound sledge hammer). A lot of the blades are bi-metal, hard teeth and softer body.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ironman123 (Mar 11, 2016)




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## NYWoodturner (Mar 11, 2016)

Nice job Kevin. Looks like a pretty sharp edge on the smaller one.


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## ripjack13 (Mar 11, 2016)

Woodman said:


> Colin, test your blades for hardness(spark test or whack them real good with a punch and 3 pound sledge hammer). A lot of the blades are bi-metal, hard teeth and softer body.


Which blades are suited for doing this?


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## Woodman (Mar 12, 2016)

Marc, I find these blades at construction sites and they are used and usually rusted so I can't recommend a particular blade but if you put the spine of one of these blades to your grinder and it feels soft and cuts in easily then you know to discard it.

I am using these blades to make knives just to keep busy because the waterjet shop that normally cuts blades for me from old handsaw or circular sawblades is backlogged and can't fit me in. Besides there is a market for handmade low priced primitive knives, they're not fancy but they're solid and get the job done for under $50 and being so thin they make wickedly sharp slicers.

The knife on the bottom has a handle of scored and blackened Sweetgum. The blade was also a sawzall blade.

I'll post a photo of a sheet of steel a neighbor gave me from his company intended for sawblades. The carbon content is .84% with some alloys and it's slightly under 1/8" thick so it should be very good for knifeblades. My problem is I can't get it cut up into blades in the forseeable future. The waterjet shop has my blade design in their computer and from a single sheet like this it would only cost me $4-5 per blade. The blade sketched on the steel is my favorite to work with because it can be used as a normal straight spine or flipped over and made as a Wharncliffe. So I guess I'll start buying Scandi factory blades which are very good steel to make low priced knives.
http://i594.Rule #2/albums/tt28/lakeridge3/100_17411_zps2ix6cctb.jpg?t=1457697816

http://i594.Rule #2/albums/tt28/lakeridge3/100_17421_zps9uzqutdk.jpg?t=1457699698


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## ripjack13 (Mar 12, 2016)

I'm a construction guy, so I have plenty just laying around....thanks for the info!


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