# Filing a file!



## Strider

Yes, I do make a piece, occasionally, here and there, and here's a glimpse of it. Tons of p
hotos- that's me, to begin with. 

I'm a humble and maker...Lots of projects, little time, resulting in steel just laying there, on the desk, collecting dust and scaring visitors. I don't have a workshop...rather a chair, a stool, with a clamped-on piece of wood and some clamps and something that resembles a vice. And yes, I do it in my living room, splitting the nerves of my kin, always working loud, late and dirty. I avoid power tools as much as I can. An angle grinder and...nopes, that's it. I do have a workshop in my college but its just for HT...I'd rather be home and watch the telly or repelling my dog off the antlers and bone ;D I just use handsaws and rasps for the wood, and files for steel. Hand drill for making holes. And sanding paper.

To begin with...A friend of mine gave me some files. I took one, annealed it and started grinding. No special designs, just a plain straight spine puukko-style blade. One of the highest hardness results I've measured. Tried a couple of times, always the same. Boooyaaah! 64 HRC
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC09745.jpg

After tempering cycle for 1 hr at 190 C, resulting 61 (thicker parts)- 63 (thinner parts) HRC, I've done another cycle, same lenght of time at 210 C, as I recall. And before the 2nd tempering I soaked the blade overnight in white vinegar to remove the scales and, in return, got this sexy pattern on the blade.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC09749.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC09746.jpg

Amazing golden color after the 2nd tempering cycle...and the pattern
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/1398230498417.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/1398230612518.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00140.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00142.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00143.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00145.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00146.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00147.jpg

As it is handmade, minimum el. tools, I've decided to make a simple handle out of commonly used traditional wood- oak. Not any oak, but, as I've been told, from an 80 year old beams taken from our traditional shingle houses.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00367.jpg

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## Strider

Burning the tang
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00368.jpg

File logo. Does anybody know which brand it is?
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00369.jpg

Fitting the tang. Very laborious!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00374.jpg

Cutting the antler for the bolster
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00375.jpg

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## Strider

And starting to make a so-far-the-best-fit bolster
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00396.jpg

My method of securing the tang to the wood. No glue, just sharpening the end and pounding the shite out of it (yes, I did use glue...and did pound the shite- no damage to the blade whatsoever).
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00397.jpg

Getting closer
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00405-1.jpg

Ever so close
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00407.jpg

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## Strider

Almost have it
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00408.jpg

Filed the shoulder curve in the antler
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00409.jpg

This helps me with the high-spots
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00497.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00498.jpg

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## Strider

My, my, looking good.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00499.jpg

Overall
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00500.jpg

Making the inner "groove" with a file, so that the shoulders lock in
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00504.jpg

Bingo!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00505.jpg

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## Strider

The other side
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00514.jpg

Cow-dog. Wants to take my antler scale and eat it!! :D Shaping the bolster
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00516.jpg

Making holes in the wood and in the antler to make a better grip surface for the gluing process.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00517.jpg

Brass 2 mm pin inserts to be sure.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00518.jpg

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## Strider

On the left you can see birch bark. I've used some suede thin piece of leather instead, as seen below the knife. I wish I had chosen the bark. The pins, you can see the pins in the wood.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00519.jpg

The handle is assembled.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00520.jpg

The tedious part, but I love it! Oak rally thakes the rasp well...smells good too!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00527.jpg

No measures, and rulers, only my eyes- yes, there are a couple of mistakes regarding symmetry, but it doesn't reduce the function of the knife. If' I hand't told you this, you wouldn't even notice. Yes, I'm on the OCD path, regarding symmetry.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00529.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00530.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00531.jpg

Palm grooves (?)... The lines are not ruler measures, but file widths lol!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00532.jpg

Chamfering the bolster
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00613.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00615.jpg

Oh dear, this made some dust!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00616.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00618.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00619.jpg

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## Strider

Aaaaand, after lots and lots of hours of work- voila!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00622.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00623.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00624.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00625.jpg
Specifications;
OAL- 199 mm. Yes, I'm a rebellious bastard.
Blade length, starting from the shoulders- 108 mm 
Blade width- 20 mm 
Blade thickness- 6 mm
The tang tapers from 10 to 2 mm, from shoulders to the tip.

I hope you like it. I do.

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## Strider

(and the next project ;))
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00626-1.jpg )

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## Kevin

Loris, that is a fantastic tutorial and an ever better work that you did. I'm very impressed with the amount of handwork you have done on it. You Croats are gifted knifemakers using only the most basic tools.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## Blueglass

I like that the grooves of the file still show a bit. Very sweet!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Foot Patrol

Strider thanks for the build thread. Nice knife. I have not used antler or done a hidden tang yet. I did buy a few Axis horns while I was in Austin this week and am looking forward to using it. I think will make great handles.


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## NYWoodturner

Loris - Beautiful knife. I too have tons of respect for the handwork you have put into it. I'm a bit jealous that you do it in your living room. I would glady trade the TV for a bench and a vise. I'm pretty sure my wife would trade me just as fast if I did though. 
Great post. I love all the work in progress pics. Well done!

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 3


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## Wildthings

Foot where did you buy the axis? I've heard of a store in Austin that sells lots of antler - maybe The Corner Store or something like that?


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## Molokai

Loris, awesome tutorial! I love how you shaped the handle with scribing lines on it. Mathematical precission. I did that in early days. Now i use grinder. Much faster.


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## robert flynt

Nice file knife and tutorial. Question, being high carbon steel is the blade edge brittle (chippy) at Rc 61? I forgot and left a knife in vinegar over night and it really worked on that blade, lots of pitting. Now I use a product in powder form that is applied by heating blade to 400 F. sprinkle it on at that temp. and it goes liquid then you do your heat treat. What doesn't pop off in the quench washes off with soap and water and there is no scale at all, but it only works on non stainless steel.


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## Foot Patrol

Wildthings said:


> Foot where did you buy the axis? I've heard of a store in Austin that sells lots of antler - maybe The Corner Store or something like that?



I bought them at the following address in Austin. The axis antlers are not cheap. I got horns with nice fiqure and it cost me $59. I should be able to make 6 or 7 nice knives from them. I also have about 6 others that I got from shed hunting in Fredericksburg earlier this year. They also have whitetail, fallow and elk antlers. If you go visit the taxidermy shop and bring your camera. Lots of great stuffed animals.

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## Strider

Thank you, you words mean a lot to me! 
Mr. Robert, any steel, except these 2nd and 3d generation powder steels, and some tool or high alloyed steels are brittle at the given hardness. The thing is, that, by my opinion, it's all to exaggerated. A steel of such hardness is long lasting in edge retention, but you have to have diamond or synthetic ceramics sharpeners to get the edge back once they dull. And, to answer your question, I forgot to measure the hardness after the 2nd tempering cycle...My estimation is that the hardness is below the 60 HRC, 57-59 I reckon. Though this is HC steel, it should be W1 or W2 tool steels. 
I've done the same thing lol, leaving it over night. Luckily the edge was not eaten...moreover, it gave the blade some spirit! :D Twenty minute soaking is enough and leaves a great patina. I've seen some spray products that do the same...but I'm aiming for the foil and plate quenching soon.


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## Strider

Got some light so I made a better photo
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00628.jpg
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Puukko%20W/DSC00627.jpg

Edit- I double posted the same photo!

Reactions: Like 4 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 3


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## barry richardson

Great Post Loris Enjoyed it very much, and admire your work


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## ironman123

Thanks for showing all that work................................almost double post.


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## ironman123

Thanks for showing us the involvement of that.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Strider

You're all welcome! I've edited my last post, I accidentally posted the same photo twice.
And the wood is walnut, not oak, I've made a typo ;)) 
The knife is getting the polish treatment after a couple of adjustments to the handle- the wood will get a finer finish- you can see some rasp marks and I'll round the bottom in cross section. Anyway, you can't see it in the photo, but the sides are round but the top and bottom are a wee bit rectangular for a better grip. Tom tired holding it, and it fits. Not to mention he's a 190+ monster, whereas I'm half his size :D


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## Molokai

actually i am 1.91 monster, lol. Its 6.29 in feet.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## NYWoodturner

Post some finished pics when you make the final adjustments!


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## NeilYeag

I would like to have a go at this. How do you "soften" the file initially to start the initial shaping, which from what I read you do with the angle grinder? Then what kind of files do you use to "file" the file? Anything special on this?

Thanks,

Neil

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## Strider

To begin the initial rough shaping- cuting out the desired pattern- you do not need to anneal the steel. I do it but it can be done afterwards. You anneal the blade, or soften it, as you've said, by heating it up above the critical temperature and letting it cool as slowly as possible- let it cool with your furnace/forge. If you let it cool in the air, you will get a softer steel, but not as soft as above. So, the only difference between annealing and normalizing process is the time it takes to cool the blade. Should you put the red hot blade on a cold piece of metal, wheter it's steel or, especially, aluminum and copper, you'll do just the opposite, hardening, as the metal drains all the heat, more quickly than the air. If you do not have a thermometer, you can use natural indicators. Above the critical temperature the steel becomes non magnetic, and the color should be light red to orange (the color of the rising sun, as the Japanese say). With this two notes, you can't miss it by far.
I use a big and rough Bacho file that chews the steel like nothing. ThenI move on to a medium steel and to a fine one at the end to remove all file marks left. Much faster than sanding paper, and it won't convex the blade. Push and repeat. Don't pull or alter. Do not press hard on soft metals, as the file will lock in the particles and make nice grooves on your almost done blade ;D

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## Strider

The File knife, firstborn, has been reserved by @gman2431. Hence the corrections to the blade and handle.
Due to my laziness, the blade was left uncoated in our damp weather, therefore a small offset to the spine has occured. Oak surely loves moisture. Fixed now, oh yeah.


 
Splendid.


 
Some scratches I sanded down. There were, and still are some marks that resemble scratches, but they are actually in the wood. Amazing really. Took me some sanding before I found that out hahaha. Sanded to 1200#.


 
Polishing the blade, as requested, but keeping the pattern. 1000, 1200, 1500#. The end result is a shaving sharp blade!


 
The process...


 
Now for the tricky part- I wanted to do some changes, but I didn't want to ruin anything, knowing myself lol. But the CD marker is still visible, after rubbing it with alcohol. How do I remove it? By sanding it down or what?

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## ripjack13

Strider said:


> But the CD marker is still visible, after rubbing it with alcohol. How do I remove it? By sanding it down or what?




http://www.taxidermy.net/forums/DeerTaxiArticles/05/c/05B36A9F70.html

http://lifehacker.com/375896/remove-permanent-marker-from-any-surface

Though Sharpie ink will become permanent after setting, it can be erased. 3 or 4 strokes of a dry erase marker will remove Sharpie ink. Wd40 will work moderately well on recent markings if dry-erase markers are not available. Crayola "Color Wonder" mess-free markers have also been effective in removing Sharpie ink that has been dried for several days.

Sharpie ink that has dried for more than several hours can be removed with acetone, but acetone and other organic solvents may damage the surface of the material written upon. Isopropyl alcohol works well and is less damaging to some surfaces; rubbing alcohol is the dilute form, so works more slowly. On some surfaces, the ink can be removed by coloring over the ink with a dry erase marker (since this marker's ink contains organic solvents) and then removing the Sharpie ink and dry erase marker ink with a dry cloth. Steam cleaning has proved effective, as have rubber eraser. The mister clean magic eraser has also proven somewhat effective on hard surfaces such as brick and very effective on wood furniture.

Reactions: Informative 2


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## Molokai

@Strider , when sanding down your blank knives, try to use piece of brass, it will not scratch steel, (i see you use file - which will ruin steel if sand paper slips and you need to start over )

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Strider

Lol Molokai, I know, I know, but since it was already polished, it took only so many strokes to make it into a mirror :D But yes, There was many times the file skidded and I was left with a few scratches...Lost my mind, went berserk. 
Ripjack 13, thank you for the information, I will find them useful and try them out asap. I am scared of damaging the antler, though. Thi has set me back a day or two. The only thing left is coating the handle and away it goes!

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## ripjack13

Right on.....I'm here to help not hinder, I do that to my wife.

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## Strider

I have been coating the handle at least 4 times with Tung oil blend and letting it dry on its own. The last coat drying was has been speeded up with a hair dryer...well, not actually drying, mor like opening the pores of the walnut so it penetrates deeper. The rest on the handle was left overnight and it styed glossy on most parts, indicating that the cells are full (guess I've read that info in the other thread).
Here it is after a few coats. Matt finish, but very silky feel to it.


 
Another coat of oil blend...


 
I wrap it all up and let it stay like that overnight. The wood soaks it all up. The rag is to oily by itself to do that.


 
The handle after two more coats and hair dryer treatment, left overnight and pictured this morning. 


 
The other side. All though there is no more visible oil on the surface, it is a bit sticky so I left it to dry a bit more. Perhaps I should coat it with heavy linseed oil and beeswax mixture (50:50) just so seal it some more. What do you guys think?


 

The WD40 treatment for the CD Sharpie marker has prooved useful. There are still small markings, lines, but greatly reduced. Guess really fine sandpaper will work. Thank you RipJack13! ;D

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## gman2431

Looks great, Loris. 

I personally wouldn't worry about putting another coat on it. If for some reason it dries out more I can add more oil as needed.


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## gman2431

I was also gonna ask you what kind of antler you used?


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## Strider

All right, I will stop the oiling process.
For the bolster, I've used the European deer, vulgaris, _*Cervus elaphus *_antler

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## Sprung

Great looking finish on that, Loris! Really like the matte finish you've got there on the handle! I'm sure that it'll feel awesome in hand.

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## Strider

I tell you, it bloody does! :D There is a small area that resists to get a matt finish, no matter how hard i rug-rape it lol

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## Molokai

.... then you need to sand it ( 2000)....


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## Strider

Riiiight :DD
Ain't got #2000, spent it on copper polishing...will #1500 do me any good? I do, however, have three or four round lapping micorn papers, the same as I gave you, but their grit are unfamilliar to me...I don't know how much is 0/0, 0/1, 0/2 and 0/3. Help, anyone?


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## Strider

Considering Tom's advice, as he is a polishing mage, I've taken lapping paper, with unknown markings, finer in grit, judging by the fingers. 
Looks a bit paler, but still feels the same, silky in hand.



Minor water test. Passed.


 
Aaaand again. Left it for a couple of minutes, nothing was soaked in.



Sharpening a minor blade part near ricasso, so I sharpened it again. 1000, 1200 and 1500#.



After #1200 paper...




fter #1500 paper...Paper test passed.



This one's after final sharpening and polishing with a strop. Oddly, this marks aren't seen on the normal light...the flash got them, I'll get rid of them before shipping, tomorrow.



Most of them were gone, only a few remain.


 
There is a video of the water test, stand by.

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