# 'sanding' acrylic?



## BarbS (Jun 12, 2012)

I decided I needed to learn to work with acrylics (I've only done a dozen wooden pens so far) and would like some advice on 'sanding' it. I had light chatter marks on these after rounding (needed sharper tool I guess) and had to start at 100grit and go all the way up through 12000. I felt they were still dulled a little from the original gleam when square. What's the procedure with acrylics?

[attachment=6669]

[attachment=6670]


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## BarbS (Jun 12, 2012)

BarbS said:


> I decided I needed to learn to work with acrylics (I've only done a dozen wooden pens so far) and would like some advice on 'sanding' it. I had light chatter marks on these after rounding (needed sharper tool I guess) and had to start at 100grit and go all the way up through 12000. I felt they were still dulled a little from the original gleam when square. What's the procedure with acrylics?



Silly me... maybe nobody here works acrylic. ;-) I'm doing Wood today.


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## EricJS (Jun 12, 2012)

Hey, Barb -

Are you wet sanding? That will make all the difference in the world. After the 12,000 grit you might need to use a plastic polish like plastix or novus. Or if you have a buffing set-up you can just use white diamond after the 12,000 grit.

Be careful of the chatter on plastic. Once it starts, you will generally blow up the blank. This is caused by heat from a dull tool, tool is too sharp - like a new carbide cutter, or lathe running too slow.

You have to be very cautious with plastic. It's not forgiving like wood.:dash2:


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## BarbS (Jun 12, 2012)

EricJS said:


> Hey, Barb -
> 
> Are you wet sanding? That will make all the difference in the world. After the 12,000 grit you might need to use a plastic polish like plastix or novus. Or if you have a buffing set-up you can just use white diamond after the 12,000 grit.
> 
> ...




No, I wasn't wet-sanding; white diamond and buffing I can do, too. I used Hut Crystal Coat, which is a minor polish/shellac/wax mix. Wet sanding is probably the answer. Thanks!


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## Final Strut (Jun 12, 2012)

Barb,

I have done a bunch of acrylic pens. The way I finish mine is I sand up to 400 then start wet sanding from there up to 2000. AFter 2000 I hit it with plastic polish and call it good. I do this with the corian pens that I have done. I also just started casting some poly resin a few weeks ago and the same practice work great on that material as well.

Scott


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## DKMD (Jun 12, 2012)

+1 for the wet sanding and tripoli/white diamond buff. I couldn't tell any difference with wet sanding to 800/buffing versus the micromesh to 12000, so I stopped using the micromesh. My experience has been the same with CA finishes for what that's worth. 

For a top coat, I've always use renaissance wax… It's expensive, but a can seems to last forever.


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## BarbS (Jun 12, 2012)

Thanks, all! My next ones will be better. Good to have my questions answered; I appreciate you!


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## BangleGuy (Jun 12, 2012)

IMHO, I doubt there is much difference between a crystal clear CA sanding finish and finishing acrylic. Wet is a must. I also use EEE paste from PenStateIndustries.


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## JimH (Jun 13, 2012)

Hello Barb! 
I have done alot of acrylic and a ton of corian pens.I do mine like some of the other guys.I do use a carbide cutter so most of the time the blanks are already smooth.But I still sand with 400 & 600.Then wet sand with MM up to 12000.If I am happy at that point I use plastx polish and it works great on both materials.Good Luck! Happy turning!


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## Dane Fuller (Jun 13, 2012)

Barb,
I've never worked with the stuff but I like what you've shown here; especially the second one.


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## BarbS (Aug 19, 2012)

Just to get back to you guys on this, I started wet-sanding (I've done four or five now) and it made all the difference. Thanks for the help, and here's a sample:

[attachment=9453]


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## The_Architect_23 (Aug 19, 2012)

Very Nice Pens!
I Always Like To Finish Turning At A Higher Rpm Very Lightly With A Sharp Skew. Then Start Wet Sanding At 400 Grit.
Everytime I Attempted To Start At A Lower Grit Number I Had Scratches.
Corian Is My Favorite SS Material, Acrylics Are Easier On The Tools, But Nothing Beats That Hard And Durable Shine Of Solid Surface.


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## BarbS (Aug 19, 2012)

The_Architect_23 said:


> Very Nice Pens!
> I Always Like To Finish Turning At A Higher Rpm Very Lightly With A Sharp Skew. Then Start Wet Sanding At 400 Grit.
> Everytime I Attempted To Start At A Lower Grit Number I Had Scratches.
> Corian Is My Favorite SS Material, Acrylics Are Easier On The Tools, But Nothing Beats That Hard And Durable Shine Of Solid Surface.



Thank you, Andrew. Haven't tried solid surface stuff yet.
I guess I'd better get back to posting WOOD pens now; I think Kevin has a grudge against acrylics being discussed on WOOD Barter! ;-) 
But it helped to be able to call on experts on here. I do love the wood pens, though.


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## DKMD (Aug 20, 2012)

BarbS said:


> ...I think Kevin has a grudge against acrylics being discussed on WOOD Barter! ;-)...



That's an easy fix... You just need a pressure pot, some resin, and some burl scraps... Instant acrylic/hybrid pen blanks that keep everyone happy! 


Nice work on the newest batch of acrylics!


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## Kevin (Aug 20, 2012)

BarbS said:


> ...I think Kevin has a grudge against acrylics being discussed on WOOD Barter! ;-) ...



Barb, unless David had quoted you I don't think I would have seen that comment. And I only noticed David's because when I saw that blue & pearl pen I just had to comment on how *beautiful* it is!

My eye doesn't normally get caught on an acrylic, and I don't normally like that shape for a pen, but I love everything about that pen. It's gorgeous.


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## BarbS (Aug 20, 2012)

Kevin said:


> BarbS said:
> 
> 
> > ...I think Kevin has a grudge against acrylics being discussed on WOOD Barter! ;-) ...
> ...



That's high praise! Thanks, Kevin. I remember reading somewhere in the rules that "this place is for Wood doggone it!" or some such statement. But setting up a pen-turners board is pretty well going to push the envelope on that. Glad you liked them. (And I did hope to slip that comment by you. I see that does not work.)


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## kweinert (Aug 21, 2012)

BarbS said:


> BarbS said:
> 
> 
> > I decided I needed to learn to work with acrylics (I've only done a dozen wooden pens so far) and would like some advice on 'sanding' it. I had light chatter marks on these after rounding (needed sharper tool I guess) and had to start at 100grit and go all the way up through 12000. I felt they were still dulled a little from the original gleam when square. What's the procedure with acrylics?
> ...



I did it once. A pen for my (then) soon-to-be son-in-law. A blue camo type thing since he's in the Air Force.

Never again. It smells, the 'shavings' stick to everything, just wasn't fun at all. 

I sanded like you did, finished it off with some Ren Wax and it seemed to turn out pretty good.

Ken


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## BarbS (Aug 21, 2012)

kweinert said:


> BarbS said:
> 
> 
> > BarbS said:
> ...



I agree; I'd much rather be working wood. It's nasty stuff, and I dislike the static electricity it develops, and how it wraps the madrel until you can't see what you're doing. But the Colors make it worth while!


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