# band saw resawing blade



## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

I know there have been a few other threads before, but I am wondering what people currently use for resawing logs (12"-16" wide, a foot or two long). I am talking big as you can fit through your band saw, not talking about a saw mill.

Here is why I ask. I recently got a 2HP 18" grizzly band saw (g1012) and 3 new blades from timber wolf. I got this pack: http://timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=3BladePackCurveRippingResawing1416

I tried to saw a 10" silver maple log with my new sharp blade and it just wandered and cut very slowly. I thought maybe it was the tension. I cranked it as far as it would go. I ordered the recommended 124" blade. I also thought it was alignment, so I tried a few different angles on the fence, still no luck. The saw stalls out when I push too hard.

Any advice would be appreciated. I looked at the Resaw king blades and the lenox blades, both very expensive options that I am not ready to take the plunge on yet. Am I expecting too much out of my band saw? I have many logs that I would like to resaw for you guys here, all silver maple with some Ambrosia at the moment. Many logs laying in the shade trying to spalt and an entire kiln full of milled material.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 18, 2013)

Which of the three blades did you put on saw? The 3/4" should work the best. If it is all gummed up it will not cut. Soak in greased lightning to clean and some spray with pam- I use beeswax to keep blade clean. If you are using the other 2 blades- that is your problem.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> Which of the three blades did you put on saw? The 3/4" should work the best. If it is all gummed up it will not cut. Soak in greased lightning to clean and some spray with pam- I use beeswax to keep blade clean. If you are using the other 2 blades- that is your problem.



I put on the 3/4, made sure it was square to the table and went right to the 10" log on the sled that I built to resaw logs. I don't think it is gummed up since it sawed slow from the moment it hit the log. I did a few test cuts on 1x pine. I have heard that beeswax helps keep it clean, I'll pick some up, saw some by the counter at woodcraft today.


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## ButchC (Oct 18, 2013)

Did you conduct the test cuts on the 1x pine on the sled?

I'm wondering if your log is getting torqued one way or the other after the blade starts cutting. Does your sled have a hold down?


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

ButchC said:


> Did you conduct the test cuts on the 1x pine on the sled?
> 
> I'm wondering if your log is getting torqued one way or the other after the blade starts cutting. Does your sled have a hold down?



No, I just cut the 1x on the table to check angle of drift. I might try that in the morning to see what happens. Not sure what you mean by hold down. It's a slef with a thin piece on the bottom that fits in the mitre slot. Another right angle shelf has slots routed in it so you can cut larger or smaller chunks. Two bolts hold the pieces together and screws hold the log to the vertical shelf. Had to use what I had on hand after the first blade purchase. Pic of sled and log attached.


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 18, 2013)

Eric - To me the bandsaw seemed like a pretty simple and straight forward non-issue when I first got it, but I was never really satisfied with it until i learned to completely tune it up from top to bottom. I had a couple smaller ones before that I didn't expect much out of. The one I am referring to is an 18" Jet. I was trying to cut log shorts into turning blocks and just got frustrated every time I tried. I finally got pissed off and took the whole damned thing apart. If there were two pieces held together with a mechanical fastener I took it apart. About an hour and ahalf into I realized I wasnt paying attention to what went where  but thankfully the manual had a blown apart schematic. By the time I got it back together I had a complete understanding of the the machine, and understood that I didn't understand it before. 
Long story short - there are a lot of nuances to the saw that I underestimated. 
As for the blades - I have used the Timberwolf blades more than any other and been pretty pleased with them if I am doing light work. I have never been happy with them for big pieces like you are talking about. Someone here recommended the Woodmaster CT and C sharp blades. I have used a couple and the saw performs much more like i had thought it would years ago when I bought it. 
Read some of the sawmill threads on blades. There are folks on here that know more about the science of blade configuration that I ever knew existed. You will learn a lot there. Don't despair yet... just dig in.
Scott


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

NYWoodturner said:


> Eric - To me the bandsaw seemed like a pretty simple and straight forward non-issue when I first got it, but I was never really satisfied with it until i learned to completely tune it up from top to bottom. I had a couple smaller ones before that I didn't expect much out of. The one I am referring to is an 18" Jet. I was trying to cut log shorts into turning blocks and just got frustrated every time I tried. I finally got pissed off and took the whole damned thing apart. If there were two pieces held together with a mechanical fastener I took it apart. About an hour and ahalf into I realized I wasnt paying attention to what went where  but thankfully the manual had a blown apart schematic. By the time I got it back together I had a complete understanding of the the machine, and understood that I didn't understand it before.
> Long story short - there are a lot of nuances to the saw that I underestimated.
> As for the blades - I have used the Timberwolf blades more than any other and been pretty pleased with them if I am doing light work. I have never been happy with them for big pieces like you are talking about. Someone here recommended the Woodmaster CT and C sharp blades. I have used a couple and the saw performs much more like i had thought it would years ago when I bought it.
> Read some of the sawmill threads on blades. There are folks on here that know more about the science of blade configuration that I ever knew existed. You will learn a lot there. Don't despair yet... just dig in.
> Scott



Thanks for the advice. I am thinking of taking apart at least the upper assembly to check out a few things. I feel like I should not be able to stop a 2HP motor. I do have the "Bandsaw handbook" which I read cover to cover a few months ago. Might have to re-read it.


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## ButchC (Oct 18, 2013)

[/quote]

Two bolts hold the pieces together and screws hold the log to the vertical shelf. 
[/quote]

That's what I was talkin about. Something to keep the piece from rotating on the sled. If you have screws into the piece from the sled, then that should rule out the possibility of it twisting during the cut.

My other thought is that your blade drift may be working against you with the runner on the underside of the sled. Any chance you can remove it and try cutting a piece on the sled, but without the miter slot runner?

Butch


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## Kevin (Oct 18, 2013)

Eric you're getting good advice. Blades are an important choice but when they are new, they all cut well. So if you're not having good results with new blades for very long, something is dulling them prematurely. I know this is asking a lot, but if you were able to post a video using your saw as you normally do, it might save you a lot of time in the long run . . . it may not be just the saw, or maybe not even the saw at all. Can you make a short video and post it?


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

Two bolts hold the pieces together and screws hold the log to the vertical shelf. 
[/quote]

That's what I was talkin about. Something to keep the piece from rotating on the sled. If you have screws into the piece from the sled, then that should rule out the possibility of it twisting during the cut.

My other thought is that your blade drift may be working against you with the runner on the underside of the sled. Any chance you can remove it and try cutting a piece on the sled, but without the miter slot runner?

Butch
[/quote]

This could very well be the case. I had it perfectly square at first, which made the blade wander. So I cocked it 1.5 degrees which is what I found when doing the 1x straight line test. Still not cutting straight, so I tried to freehand a cut now that I had a flat-er side. It was drifting, but I was able to get an even straighter cut, just took forever with a bunch of stalls.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Eric you're getting good advice. Blades are an important choice but when they are new, they all cut well. So if you're not having good results with new blades for very long, something is dulling them prematurely. I know this is asking a lot, but if you were able to post a video using your saw as you normally do, it might save you a lot of time in the long run . . . it may not be just the saw, or maybe not even the saw at all. Can you make a short video and post it?



I'll try to take a video tomorrow and post it here. It may very well be my technique. Wish I could get some one on one lessons. I have watched videos for hours on youtube and no one cuts this slow.


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## ButchC (Oct 18, 2013)

I very rarely use a fence on my bandsaw. I've learned the drift on each of my blades, and it's easier to draw a straight line on something and follow it than expect the saw will cut a straight line for you. Of course, mine's a 30 year old craftsman 12" I inherited from my Dad, so I've never tried slogging through anything like what you're trying.

Butch


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## ejo4041 (Oct 18, 2013)

mja979 said:


> ... I put a saw blade on once with tge teeth facing up... it cut bad.



Haha. I put the chain on my chainsaw backwards once. We all learn our lessons some how.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2013)

I worked for a guy that used a skillsaw with a combo blade backwards to cut metal roofing- Man it was loud but it cut pretty good!!

I think you are binding the blade if you are stopping it. Try a 1 point fence-PS- sawing logs (round wood) has it's hazards- you might want to get knowledge of how the saw cuts with square wood for a while before you cut green round wood. 
Also Jimmy uses a 1 tooth per inch or more for cutting his green wood. Seems to have good results. When I use my resaw blade- supercuts 1/2 3 TPI resaw blade on green wood it gums up fast. resaw blades have a thin kerf and my experience is they do not work very well cutting green. I use a cheap starrett 3/4 2/1 TPI that has a kerf more like skilsaw and have better results.


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## Kevin (Oct 19, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> I worked for a guy that used a skillsaw with a combo blade backwards to cut metal roofing- Man it was loud but it cut pretty good!!...



 Gawd that had to be a rough cut. I have used a plywood blade backwards to cut metal panels many times and you're right it's LOUD, but I cannot imagine what kind of ragged edge a combo blade would leave I'd think that would be a nasty edge. Plywood blades work great, but the teeth dull fairly quickly even using it backward.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Mike1950 said:
> 
> 
> > I worked for a guy that used a skillsaw with a combo blade backwards to cut metal roofing- Man it was loud but it cut pretty good!!...
> ...



Let's just say that if you even looked at it close you had better have gloves on.
This was in 73-on top of a grain elevator probably 100 ft up. He tied a rope around his waist and my friend and I pulled him up and down this 12/12 ?? pitch. I was crazy but I would have never done it myself. Nobody could see the cuts.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 19, 2013)

Got the saw tuned a little better today after watching more videos. Got used to cutting a bunch of smaller stuff and then tried out resawing again. I was able to get through some larger stuff but still very slowly. The blade was not wandering at all and I was able to follow a line just fine. Just that if I didn't have a consistent, smooth, slow feed rate, it would stop the saw. I am looking into swapping out the motor for more HP, but just looking at the moment. Currently at 2HP, might try for 4HP.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2013)

ejo4041 said:


> Got the saw tuned a little better today after watching more videos. Got used to cutting a bunch of smaller stuff and then tried out resawing again. I was able to get through some larger stuff but still very slowly. The blade was not wandering at all and I was able to follow a line just fine. Just that if I didn't have a consistent, smooth, slow feed rate, it would stop the saw. I am looking into swapping out the motor for more HP, but just looking at the moment. Currently at 2HP, might try for 4HP.



How thick of a piece are you cutting- are you sure you are not binding the saw. Stopping 2 hp -I don't think it should be happening. Try a piece of dry wood that thick. I bet it is the blade-or blade type.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 19, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> ejo4041 said:
> 
> 
> > Got the saw tuned a little better today after watching more videos. Got used to cutting a bunch of smaller stuff and then tried out resawing again. I was able to get through some larger stuff but still very slowly. The blade was not wandering at all and I was able to follow a line just fine. Just that if I didn't have a consistent, smooth, slow feed rate, it would stop the saw. I am looking into swapping out the motor for more HP, but just looking at the moment. Currently at 2HP, might try for 4HP.
> ...



That may be the case, I thought 2HP was a lot and should be able to handle anything I can fit through it. Cutting 10-12" green logs. I got what I thought was the correct blade and because the size I needed wasn't available in some of the other blade types.

What blade would you recommend? I need a 124"

Here are two I found on grizzly. This size/blade type combo are not available through the timberwolf/suffolk machinery website, I guess I'd have to call:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/124-x-1-x-035-x-1-TPI-Pos-Claw-Bi-Metal-Bandsaw-Blade/T25069
http://www.grizzly.com/products/124-x-1-1-4-x-035-x-1-3-TPI-Hook-Bandsaw-Blade/G5290

From what I have read, hook tooth clears lots of material fast.

I don't really have anything dry that is that thick. I guess I could stack some 2x4. I'll try that later or tomorrow.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2013)

I would try resawing a 10" board or?? I do not cut much green but when I do my resaw blade is not worth a crap. I loads up with pitch and then needs cleaning. That same blade I can cut 10-12" resaw in oak.

Personally I have not used griz blades but I do not think they are premium. I would call someone at Supercut-or lennox to find what optimum blade would be.


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## Sprung (Oct 19, 2013)

I'd listen to Mike and give someone at Supercut or Lennox a call and see what blade you need. You couldn't fill a thimble with what I know about resawing, but I've read in many places that resaw blades are meant for dry wood, as Mike says. If you're cutting green wood, you should have a suitable blade for the task.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 19, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> I would try resawing a 10" board or?? I do not cut much green but when I do my resaw blade is not worth a crap. I loads up with pitch and then needs cleaning. That same blade I can cut 10-12" resaw in oak.
> 
> Personally I have not used griz blades but I do not think they are premium. I would call someone at Supercut-or lennox to find what optimum blade would be.



I just tried a 10" pine shelf I had laying in the corner. Choked just like it did on the log. I am confident I am feeding things through pretty straight now and that I have it set up better.

I contacted an ebay seller who makes custom Lenox blades, hoping they can sell me one to test out.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2013)

My guess- the blade is crap. I can take my blade-been on saw for 4-5 months and freehand 8-10" of oak-persimmon-whatever. It would eat pine like it was not there. Now if it was gummed up- it would not. Clean it and it is like new. Make sure you get a blade rated for green wood.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 19, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> My guess- the blade is crap. I can take my blade-been on saw for 4-5 months and freehand 8-10" of oak-persimmon-whatever. It would eat pine like it was not there. Now if it was gummed up- it would not. Clean it and it is like new. Make sure you get a blade rated for green wood.



Mike, What blade are you running? What size/HP saw?


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## Mike1950 (Oct 20, 2013)

ejo4041 said:


> Mike1950 said:
> 
> 
> > My guess- the blade is crap. I can take my blade-been on saw for 4-5 months and freehand 8-10" of oak-persimmon-whatever. It would eat pine like it was not there. Now if it was gummed up- it would not. Clean it and it is like new. Make sure you get a blade rated for green wood.
> ...



1/2" 0.025" 3 hook gold from super cut on a 1951 20" Rockwell with what I would guess 2hp baldor original motor. I say guess because I really have never looked for the label on the motor. 
I mostly resaw- blade gives a decent cut and a very long life.
Now the timberwolf blade? from highland gives a smoother surface but does not last very long for me. Neither are very suitable in my opinion for green wood. I think green wood needs a thicker blade and a larger kerf- key word here is think- I do not have much experience with green but when I do cut it I get out a Starrett 3/4" with 2 or less huge teeth per inch and it does better. They were cheap and seem better suited for rough work. Hope that helps.
PS. Supercut just happens to be 30 miles from me- local owned biz in the same family since the mid 60's- I just go pick the blades up and they make them on the spot.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 20, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> ejo4041 said:
> 
> 
> > Mike1950 said:
> ...



You are very lucky to have (or know of) a place that makes custom blades close by. I don't know of any around me yet. I am thinking about ordering 2 of the 1-1/2" 1TPI blades from spectrumsupply for ~$50 shipped: http://www.spectrumsupply.com/woodmasterc.aspx?variation=224334

Thoughts?


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## Mike1950 (Oct 20, 2013)

ejo4041 said:


> Mike1950 said:
> 
> 
> > ejo4041 said:
> ...



I had to have somebody from florida tell me it was there!!:dash2::dash2:

Jimmy is using a blade very similar to that to cut his green wood. If that is what spectrum recommends- I would give it a shot. Price seems fair.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 20, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> ejo4041 said:
> 
> 
> > Mike1950 said:
> ...



Haha, I can see someone from the west coast telling me there is a place in my backyard that makes custom blades.

I will give them a call on Monday to confirm it is the recommended blade. Still waiting to hear back from the ebay seller too, same blade.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

Got my new blades today. Went with 1-1/2" 1 TPI Lenox blade, bought 2 of the 123" from spectrum supply. Shipping was fast, blades are good. I think this has reveled the true problem with the saw though. I believe that the belts on the motor and pulley are slipping. I was able to stop the saw even with this aggressive blade on. The belts on there are very dry and some of the layers are peeling in places. After stopping the saw, I touched the flywheel which was very warm, it also was starting to smell like burning rubber in the basement. I can get three new belts for $15 shipped.

I took a video this time so maybe you guys can agree/disagree with the belt theory. I also could not seem to get the blade to stop wobbling front to back, not sure if it that the blade has a wobble or if I did not tune the machine properly. Also worth noting 1.5" is pretty much the max a saw this size can handle, I will not be buying this wide of a blade again, I would probably only go for 1" at widest. It come very close to hitting the edge of the table.


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## DKMD (Oct 24, 2013)

I don't think I've ever seen a blade do that... Any chance one of the wheels is bent? 

The blade does look huge on that saw... I've never run anything bigger than 3/4" on my saw, and I'm generally using a 3/8" blade.


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## Kevin (Oct 24, 2013)

Man that is not good on the motor to be bogging it down like that. It sounds like you have maybe a serious wheel alignment issue.

Didn't see Docs post - I agree the blade is way too much for the saw.


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

It is only with this big blade that it has the wobble, the smaller blade was fine. DKMD, where were you on Monday when I ordered these blades, haha.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 24, 2013)

each saw has it's size limits- you do not want to go to large- mine will only take a 1" jimmies I think will take a 1 1/2 you should check on line how large your saw will take????


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> each saw has it's size limits- you do not want to go to large- mine will only take a 1" jimmies I think will take a 1 1/2 you should check on line how large your saw will take????



I checked before I bought the blades, the manual for the g1012 says it will work with 1.5".


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

Just checked my theory of the belts being shot. I tightened them as best as I could just to test. I was able to cut through a thick, wet, knarly log with no trouble. So I assume it was belt slippage that was making the saw perform badly. I was able to correct a little of the wobble of the blade. The tension adjustment has a little play in it which I was able to pin to one side, blade still wobble, but it is a little better. 

Just a little too late here to be cutting much. Was planning on cutting blanks for the Flood of wood giveaway :-( Oh well, I'll join in next time when I have some better stuff.

Pic of the big piece I just cut:

Reactions: Like 1


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## DKMD (Oct 24, 2013)

ejo4041 said:


> ItDKMD,where were you on Monday when I ordered these blades, haha.



I'm always drunk on Mondays... Today's Monday, right?


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

DKMD said:


> I'm always drunk on Mondays... Today's Monday, right?


For some reason I thought it was Friday, so we are even ;). Still have time to assemble a better box for Flood of wood. Submitted a MFRB in case I don't cut any more wood before midnight tomorrow, haha, who am I kidding.

Reactions: Like 1


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## NYWoodturner (Oct 24, 2013)

Ejo - Glad you confirmed the belt issue. That could definitely be a contributing factor. It will confirm why you are able to stop the blade but shouldn't make the blade move front to back like that. I would say you have an offsetting alignment issue between top and bottom wheel or a bent shaft. In conduction your guides clearly are not in alignment. the flex front to back on the blade when you introduce the wood speaks to a tension problem and a guide set issue. I also don't recommend running it with the throat plate missing. I would suggest making a zero clearance plate if you don't have the original. It just allows too much flex in the blade in all directions. 
Scott


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## ejo4041 (Oct 24, 2013)

NYWoodturner said:


> Ejo - Glad you confirmed the belt issue. That could definitely be a contributing factor. It will confirm why you are able to stop the blade but shouldn't make the blade move front to back like that. I would say you have an offsetting alignment issue between top and bottom wheel or a bent shaft. In conduction your guides clearly are not in alignment. the flex front to back on the blade when you introduce the wood speaks to a tension problem and a guide set issue. I also don't recommend running it with the throat plate missing. I would suggest making a zero clearance plate if you don't have the original. It just allows too much flex in the blade in all directions.
> Scott


I think it might actually be a bend in the blade near the weld. my other timberwolf blade tracks beautifully. guides were not perfect, it was hard because the blade is so thick it doesn't conform to the wheels completely. and yes, missing that throat plate. I have a couple I bought that I will put back in. thanks for all the advice! I really do appreciate and value everyone's feedback here.


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