# Bowl Turning question for dry woods



## Wilson's Woodworking (Jan 29, 2015)

I am trying to turn my first bowl out of a piece of bone dry hackberry and having trouble with the end grain ripping out. If I were to soak this stuff in mineral oil would it soften it up so I could cut it cleanly?  I was going to try finishing it with mineral oil and beeswax when I was finished with the bowl so it would be food safe.
Any help with finish and softening welcome.


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## NYWoodturner (Jan 29, 2015)

Danny - There are numerous methods for what you are talking about. I'm not sure how the oil will work though. What is happening is a combination of the ingrain ripping / tearing out because your edge is not sharp enough to get a clean slice and the f=grain is laying down so your not getting a clean cut. What you want to accomplish is to stiffen those fibers so you can slice cleanly and evenly. 

I use shellac flakes mixed about 70/30 with DNA. The DNA evaporates off leaving only the shellac in the end grain which stiffens them enough to help get a clean cut.
@DKMD uses a white glue and water mixture of 50/50 I think - but he can give you more info
I have heard of some that use wood hardener like you buy at the paint store

I am sure several turners will weigh in here. The tips that relate to all methods though are
#1 - Scary Sharp tools and #2 - don't go slow. The faster your piece is spinning the least resistant the wood is to the cut. #3 - take ever so light cuts. 

Hope that helps

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## DKMD (Jan 29, 2015)

I agree with what Scott said. 

The glue soak is Elmers glue cut 50% with water... Soak the roughouts for 24 hours then turn after it's dry. That's mainly for punky stuff. The shellac trick is faster and easier for spot treatment.

Mineral oil would probably work and makes sense if that's your intended finish. Even water will swell the wood fibers enough to help, but you have to let it dey before applying most finishes.

Sharp tool and high speeds helps a lot. Light cuts just off the grinder helps too.

A few pics of the trouble areas might help us help you.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Wilson's Woodworking (Jan 29, 2015)

I am working on mounting the motor after getting a 4 step pully for the motor. Before I bought the lathe the school had put a new motor on it with a single pully on it.
Then I can speed it up.
I just made myself two new carbide inserted tools that use dead sharp inserts. maybe that will help.
I will post pics this weekend when I can make it back out to the shed in the day light. It sucks not having a real shop or at least a garage.


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## Graybeard (Jan 30, 2015)

From one less experienced and having similar problems I agree with what has been said. Sharp tools definately, but also the cut is important. If you have a chance go to someone who is experienced and watch them. Notice the angle of the tool and where they're cutting. I find experienced turners take a lot of their skill for granted, they do things by habit and don't really think about it. Little things mean a lot.
Finally I'm a bit rough and when in doubt push harder - wrong. Go easy, let the tool do the work.
Experience helps. Graybeard


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## Fsyxxx (Jan 30, 2015)

Shear scraping also helps, use the tool with a fresh sharp burr. Only make a couple passes then refresh the burr. Tiny cuts as everyone else said...


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## elnino (Jan 30, 2015)

Inside the bowl or outside? I like to shear scrape outside with winged bowl gouge and for inside a traditional ground bowl gouge in a push cut just lays down the end grain like a magic wand. 

Never turned hackberry but those cuts should help vs just scraping


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## Fsyxxx (Jan 30, 2015)

I shear scrape as a final pass or two on woods prone to tear out....


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## Wilson's Woodworking (Jan 30, 2015)

I am not sure how to shear scrape or what is referred to as a wing gouge. It is the outside of the bowl I am having trouble with right now. Next I will be turning it around to do the inside but first I wanted to learn from this part before I turn it around.


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## Fsyxxx (Jan 30, 2015)

Look up john Lucas on YouTube he has several videos showing methods, it's just for very light cuts, removing bruised fibers and tear out... Check it out


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## NYWoodturner (Jan 31, 2015)

A winged gouge is one with an Irish grind or an Ellsworth grind. Here is a link explaining the Irish grind, which is what I use. I just did a quick google search but chose this one since it referenced a Texas Irish grind  Don't know if it references @Kevin or not 
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/irish-grind.html

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Great Post 1


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## gman2431 (Jan 31, 2015)

When I first started turning bowls I watched tons of John Lucas videos on YouTube. There's also some other good ones I can't remember off the top of my head and well worth the watch.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Wilson's Woodworking (Jan 31, 2015)

I had never heard of the Irish grind and will be giving it a try. On the other hand I have heard of Irish whiskey and will be giving that a go also. 
By the time I had a chance to make it out to the shed today the weather had turned to crap so will take me a while to try these things out but thanks for all the help guys.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## MikeMD (Feb 1, 2015)

What @NYWoodturner said will do you just fine. What I usually do on wood that is punky (gets that tearout) is give it a good heavy coat (more like a soaking) of poly. Then wait a week or so for that to harden up nicely. Now, if you are going to use a mineral oil finish on the wood, this might not be your best option. Remember, any wood finish sold in the US is food safe...even poly ONCE IT IS CURED...not just dry. So, poly will take about 30 days to be food safe.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## Wilson's Woodworking (Feb 3, 2015)

Thanks Guys!!! I found this video and I think it will help considerably!




It looks like I am going to be spending some time on youtube. I knew I had a lot to learn but it is crazy how much there is on there.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## MikeMD (Feb 10, 2015)

Danny, watching DVDs and YouTube videos will help. But nothing, and I mean NOTHING will make you better faster than spending time in the shop. Once you get the basics, run with them. Rough out as many bowls (green) as you can stand. That muscle memory will carry you into finish cutting well. There is no substitute for experiencing the cuts yourself. Watching videos can help show you what you should and shouldn't do. But you'll still do the 'don't's until you FEEL what you should and shouldn't be doing.

Reactions: Like 1


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## pinky (Feb 15, 2015)

Gonna throw another suggestion out there. Very easy and has worked wonders on dry, prone to tearout end grain. As others have mentioned, sharp tools are a must. Get a spray bottle with water in it, add dish soap, a good generous squirt. Cover your ways and any upainted surfaces on your lathe with plastic. Spray the bowl good as it is spinning slow and proceed to cut. Should work nicely. Make sure to wipe everything down when done. Don't want to come back to rusty surfaces.


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