# Hollow form boring bar ?



## Anthony (Jun 18, 2016)

What grade of steel is used in the 5/8 and 3/4 boring bars used in the hollow form systems? Thinking about making some.


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## Tony (Jun 18, 2016)

@woodtickgreg


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 18, 2016)

I like 1045 cold rolled.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2


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## Spinartist (Jun 23, 2016)

I made some of my boring bars & tool rests from Stainless steel & it vibrates more and sooner that regular steel. They sure are pretty though!!


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## Anthony (Jun 24, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> I made some of my boring bars & tool rests from Stainless steel & it vibrates more and sooner that regular steel. They sure are pretty though!!


I am a big fan of SS . if that's what the case the, cost to fiction ability, doesn't pan out. I'm going to go with woodtickgreg's advice and go with the cold rolled 1045 bar stock


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## Spinartist (Jun 24, 2016)

Yes, cold rolled doesn't vibrate as much. probably 25% less

Reactions: Like 1


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## Anthony (Jun 24, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> Yes, cold rolled doesn't vibrate as much. probably 25% less


Ive turned metal (steel,SS,aluminum,brass) on a lathe but not wood . I was hoping to have some boring bars made by the time I get my lathe which is in a few weeks.


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## Spinartist (Jun 24, 2016)

Anthony said:


> I am a big fan of SS . if that's what the case the, cost to fiction ability, doesn't pan out. I'm going to go with woodtickgreg's advice and go with the cold rolled 1045 bar sto



Well, the song says "it never rains in southern California" so I guess you don't have to worry about rust on your tools like here in south Florida.


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## Anthony (Jun 24, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> Well, the song says "it never rains in southern California" so I guess you don't have to worry about rust on your tools like here in south Florida.


That song is false and I live in northern California. It rains a lot in the winter. Not as humid as Florida though . a big part of me not going with the stainless is price . I can buy twice as much stock of 1045 for the price of SS. 
I do love stainless though ...

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Spinartist (Jun 25, 2016)

Use the 1045. The best way to keep the rust off is the use the tools frequently!!


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 3, 2016)

I made a boring bar system a while back and I used 1" 12L14 cold rolled screw machine stock. Easy to drill and tap. Has served me well without issue. I made it so both ends cold be used to hold a cutter but have not found a way to bend the curve into the second end so I can get into small mouthed fat vessels. I have met a blacksmith and am planning on asking him if its a project he would be interested in taking on.

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg (Jul 3, 2016)

gregsayers2000 said:


> I made a boring bar system a while back and I used 1" 12L14 cold rolled screw machine stock. Easy to drill and tap. Has served me well without issue. I made it so both ends cold be used to hold a cutter but have not found a way to bend the curve into the second end so I can get into small mouthed fat vessels. I have met a blacksmith and am planning on asking him if its a project he would be interested in taking on.


Is that a very hard material? I work in a metal forming shop, hydraulic bending power cant be beat! Heating and bending is an option as well, but heat can do weird things to metal, it can harden, soften, or make brittle, so I like cold forming and then a temper or harden if needed.

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg (Jul 3, 2016)

Anthony said:


> I am a big fan of SS . if that's what the case the, cost to fiction ability, doesn't pan out. I'm going to go with woodtickgreg's advice and go with the cold rolled 1045 bar stock


I too love stainless, but it can be soft and that's why it tends to vibrate. Some upper end stainless is harder but way more $$$. You would think because most stainless is soft it would be easy to drill and tap but this is not the case, it grabs bits and taps, I can't tell you how many taps I have snapped in stainless, or how many drills it has caused me to resharpen. And when it comes to milling you better be running at least cobalt end mills with expensive carbide preferred. But man I do love stainless! Recently I scored some nice blocks of it, say hand plane size! It's good to be a truck driver in the metal forming industry!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Spinartist (Jul 3, 2016)

gregsayers2000 said:


> I made a boring bar system a while back and I used 1" 12L14 cold rolled screw machine stock.
> I made it so both ends cold be used to hold a cutter but have not found a way to bend the curve into the second end so I can get into small mouthed fat vessels.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Spinartist (Jul 3, 2016)

1" diameter?? If so I would drill the end to accept a 1/2" rod with a cutter which can be bent to any angle you need.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Anthony (Jul 3, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> I too love stainless, but it can be soft and that's why it tends to vibrate. Some upper end stainless is harder but way more $$$. You would think because most stainless is soft it would be easy to drill and tap but this is not the case, it grabs bits and taps, I can't tell you how many taps I have snapped in stainless, or how many drills it has caused me to resharpen. And when it comes to milling you better be running at least cobalt end mills with expensive carbide preferred. But man I do love stainless! Recently I scored some nice blocks of it, say hand plane size! It's good to be a truck driver in the metal forming industry![/QU
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> ...


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 6, 2016)

Here are a few pics of the boring bar I made many years ago and still use it. Love it for it's simplicity and it just plain gets the job done. I even made an articulating arm that holds a laser pointer for even wall thickness in deep turnings. I was afraid it would shake real bad with use but it's actually rock solid. The lathe was made from a lathe they showed on Fine Woodworking Mag even longer ago. Never got around to making the tailstock for it. For a wood lathe it will cut some wood!

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 2


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## DaveHawk (Jul 6, 2016)

Greg I like that. My son is a welder and I can have him turn one of these out for the shop. The wooden bar on top , is that your hand held guide.


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 6, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Is that a very hard material? I work in a metal forming shop, hydraulic bending power cant be beat! Heating and bending is an option as well, but heat can do weird things to metal, it can harden, soften, or make brittle, so I like cold forming and then a temper or harden if needed.


It is one of the best machining steels there is. We made 90% of our steel parts from it. It will work harden when bending but not real bad. The L stands for lead which acts like a lubricant in the steel making it machine so well.


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 6, 2016)

DaveHawk said:


> Greg I like that. My son is a welder and I can have him turn one of these out for the shop. The wooden bar on top , is that your hand held guide.


I edited the post after you read it. The wooden arm is for a laser pointer for making consistent wall thickness. I cut thru the very bottom of a vessel that I had a lot of time and effort into and never wanted that to happen again, thus what you see.


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## DaveHawk (Jul 6, 2016)

That's got to suck. so what is your aiming point for the lazer pointer ?


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## gregsayers2000 (Jul 20, 2016)

I turn thinner than most turners. I like a bowl or vessel to be light in my hands. I normally set the laser at 3/32" and then sand. With the right touch and grind there is very little sanding to be done. I normally start at 120 grit and sand to 320 or 400.

Just to add to what has been said, I like to get the outside to final shape and apply several coats of shellac to help stiffen the walls allowing the inside turning to go a little smoother. Adding the shellac to the ouside adds about double the actual thickness in feel when turning the interior.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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