# Three piece set



## Strider

...made out of files! I reckon W2 steel. Tool steel never the less, high carbon, above 0.8 %, as I reckon, judging by the sparks. I would like to make a photo of them, to show you how beautiful they are, almost white and very...bushy.
Not to prolong; three files. Stack em up, draw in the lines, and aways we go (grind :D )!



I've cut the tangs off...see the logo on each one. Does anyone recognize the clover leaf brand? I've encountered a lot of them and they are all good quality. The other one might be Slovenian made. The tangs will make a nice little workers as well. Nothing gets wasted!
Right scheme for this set. The left was used for the guide bar set.


 



After annealing they are as soft as butter. Amazing. Less than 30 Rockwells.


 
Unfortunately, 18 mm (3 x 6mm) is too thick to work with properly...so I went two at a time, the third one will be waiting. 


 
It is a pleasure to drill steel as soft as this. Remember, good HT makes the difference! See the shavings. Amazing


 
Very long and really sharp piece. Gotta love metalworks!




More to come, gentlemen, more to come...

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## Sprung

Another amazing thread! Will be watching this one too!


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## JR Parks

Me too - I can almost feel a metal splinter from those shavings. Thanks fo showing us


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## ripjack13

nice.....keep up the great process!


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## barry richardson

Subscribed!


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## Kevin

barry richardson said:


> Subscribed!


+5


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## Wildthings

Subscribed


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## Strider

Can't wait until I start on them again! Thank you for kind words. That's the issue. Either you don't work, or when you do, there are tons of project :D


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## Strider

Nope, didn't fall asleep, still making them. College just started, my camera farted, and my cell is about to...so pardon me for the delay, gentlemen.
Filing the bevel. Tool steel is softer than butter. Expect a file tutorial soon, regarding the methods for filing soft and hard metals.


 
Fine-tunning the tip. Delicate work, I dare to say. One slip and you loose the geometry.


 
As always, precision and balance is at its place. No machine can do what hands can.


 
While filing, I've got other things on my mind ;)


 
Flattening the spine. Note the scratch line marking the middle of the spine. I use this method for the blade as well- done with the Vernie caliper.


 
More to come, some handle changes.

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## Strider

Still working; see the other blank below. I made some geometry changes around the tip.


Side view!

 Fine filing the rough file marks!



Detail; I use the light to see the deeper grooves, by filing in the cross direction. 


These deep ones might prove difficult; for you who don't see them, the pack is located in the middle of the picture.


Rough polishing done, mid polishing is easier before HT.



The other angle.






Geometry change, making the handle longer for Mr. Sprung. Actually, it's more comfortable, seems more usable.


How I do it...Filing with the chansaw chain sharpening round file. It eats the metal away.

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## Strider

By far the best curve yet!



Drilling more holes for the pins, and to make the knife a bit lighter. Butter soft! 


The best part, hands down! :D 



Sorry for the fuzzy picture, it's hard to get a good one with a no zoom camera (cell phone)...The heath alone might crack the lens, not to tell what it does to the plastic cover (or my skin lol) :D 


Since my hardness tester showed awkward results, very low at the hande, and because of the inability to test at the edge, I used the other technique. Simple phsysics. Harder objects can damage, scratch other, softer, objects. By scratching, I mean literrally with the weight of the blade.
This test sample has a hardness of 53 HRC. No problem scratching it. See the scratch near the tip.


54 HRC, no problem. Scratch visible. 



After oil quench. 



It stopped scratching with ease with the sample named S17. In the papers, it says it has 55 HRCs, so the knife has around 55-57 HRCs. The samples can be seen behind. I don't know where the s17 sample photo is, Ill make another one next time I'm in the work shop. Ironically, only now do I see that the S15 has 56 HRCs. More tests to come after the tempering cycle at 200C for one hour.

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## Sprung

Awesome, Loris! I'm even more excited now!


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## jmurray

i want one


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## Strider

A small update- tempering has been done twice, 200C, one hour. Subtle straw color. Tomorrow hardness testing and polishing ;) Shie bright like a diamond (I didn't actually qure Rhianna, did I? :DD)

Well, Josh it is a 3 piece set, one is reserved, two to go... ;D

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## jmurray

Strider said:


> A small update- tempering has been done twice, 200C, one hour. Subtle straw color. Tomorrow hardness testing and polishing ;) Shie bright like a diamond (I didn't actually qure Rhianna, did I? :DD)
> 
> Well, Josh it is a 3 piece set, one is reserved, two to go... ;D


Pm me some details, what are you handling them with?


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## Sprung

Just had to come back and look at these pics again... Showed a couple of these pics to my wife last night and she thinks it's cool too.

This:



Strider said:


>



is going to look real sweet with one of these:



 

blocks of stabilized cherry burl as the handle!


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## Strider

I agree, the burl will look good on it. I will make it worth it. Any info, by the way, regarding the work with the burl? Any thread on it?

Mr. Josh, PM sent.


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## Sprung

Strider said:


> Any info, by the way, regarding the work with the burl? Any thread on it?



I don't know of a specific thread here on how to work with burls, especially as it pertains to knifemaking, but I'm sure Molokai or one of the other knife makers might have some tips on using it for a knife handle.

The pieces of cherry burl I'm sending you are stabilized - so in some ways it'll be just like working with an acrylic since it is resin impregnated. After the stabilization process, it's pretty hard!


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## Strider

Oh, I thought they weren't! Sweet in that case, no problems, whatsoever.
More pics to follow, after the tempering cycle ;D

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## Strider

So...the story goes on... The Hobbit: The battle for the workshop!

I have tempered it twice at 200C for an hour, also repeating the scratch test. One new line next to the old one.

The test piece number one, 54 HRC. No problem.



53 HRC, even less.



S17 test piece, 55 HRC. Oddly, it doesn't really scratch it as it should, it doesn't cut into it as it does on the other pieces, it just...well...scratches it. See the "L" shape, scratched into it.



S30 piece, 57 HRC. No problem, see :D Sometimes I hate metal.



The papers.



The time came to polish the blade as requested, leaving the back rough, rustic. But, this pattern occured, so I'm asking the future owner, Sprung, if you would like me to high polish the blade, leaving the pattern visible, or to remove it completely. The blade is very sharp at this point, even before reaching high grit sandpaper due to preHT polishing.




The "test" video.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/th_MOV01121.mp4

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## Strider

Now, let's move on to the 2/3 model for Josh.
Reshaping the belly of the handle.


 
Reshaping the index finger curve (how do you call this part, actually? ). See that it always ends up with a small bulge just bellow the top. You have to be carefull how you remove it. The knife is still in the vice, the wood in the back is due to my camera poor AF.


 
Oh, yes, I do love this part. Cool thing, though, the file had a natural taper. That makes it more...fragile. I hoped you didn't notice the small flaw at the tip which will have to be corrected with a fine file. You didn't? Damn! :D One false move and the tip goes bad...well, almost, since it didn't cross the center line. Fragile bastard. Somebody asked me how I make a round ricasso. Well, use a round file, simply :DD 


 
We men surely do love curves ;D


 
This 2/3 file has rough teeth, as it is a rough file, of course. I can't wait to see how the leather spacer will look like after it interlocks with the teeth.
More to come!

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## Sprung

Strider said:


> The time came to polish the blade as requested, leaving the back rough, rustic. But, this pattern occured, so I'm asking the future owner, Sprung, if you would like me to high polish the blade, leaving the pattern visible, or to remove it completely. The blade is very sharp at this point, even before reaching high grit sandpaper due to preHT polishing.



Loris, what's causing the pattern? Is it just they way the metal is? Or is is a problem in the metal? Or? And is it visible on just the one side, or on both sides?

If it's simply the way the metal is from being a file, and not a defect in the metal or pitting from rust or anything like that, if it'll polish smooth but still show the pattern, that's fine - gives it more character. (So long as it's not something like pitting from rust.) I do still want the high polish - even if the pattern is still visible.

Looking awesome, Loris!

Also, I sent off some stuff to be stabilized - and included the two blocks of FBE I'm sending you. I should have them back in about two weeks, maybe a little longer, then I'll be able to get everything headed your way!


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## Strider

What's causing the pattern? Frankly I don't know. I would blame the temperature, but the knife isn't soaking for a long time in the furnace, at least not enough for pitting or for the edge to be burnt away. Nor is the temperature too high- that sort of damage would occur at higher temperatures due to oxidation- the higher the temperature, the faster reaction. 
It has to be something with the scales forming. As they form, randomly situated, they prevent oxidation to occur, whereas the "naked" area will be affected in such a matter. Oddly, I see that this pattern is made only on tool steels, such as files, as I've had lots of business with the guide bars and springs, and they don't get any pattern whatsoever. They do, but not in that quantity, see the picture below (guide bar piece). So it might be steel related, you know, different carbides, their dislocations in the crystalline structure and the tendency (or lack of it) to bond with O2. You see, the pattern is actually...erm...elevated. It isn't like pitting, or acid etched, below the surface. The "File knife" has small dots, that look like pitting, but were made with acid, vinegar which made that pattern. I always use white vinegar to remove the scales and oil after HT, much easier than sanding it down, and if the steel is left long enough, it will get etched. This knife hasn't undergone the vinegar de-scaling process, I'm going old school, sandpaper, swat and blood (hope not literally :D). Try that sometimes- take wax, melt it over a knife in a specific pattern, and put it in a jar with vinegar. The non covered parts will get etched. It's fun, really. 
http://woodbarter.com/attachments/dsc01082-jpg.62595/

The pattern can be seen on both sides and can be polished without it being completely removed, see the "File knife" end result. It isn't a problem if you want a mirror polish without it, really! All right, looking forward to open that box! ;D

Thank you, I'm glad you like it.


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## Sprung

Loris, I'll leave it up to you if you want to remove it - I think it would be fine with or without it and don't have a problem with it - especially now understanding what the cause it. Either way, still a yes on the polish!


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## Strider

Here's more to it! I enjoy working with annealed files so much! @josh I think you will be happy.
The following photos were made in three hour's time, Friday.
The normal ricasso and choil are boring, so I turned to something new. Widen the index finger curve to the ricasso edge /ridgeline, forming a nice little triangle. I didn't wan't to cut a choil in it, as it turned out very good and symmetrical.



Damn, didn't see this one turning blurry. The aim is to show how the spine goes...erm...recurve, with a clip on the end. Since the other blanks from the set are drop point, why make a difference.


Making the bevel near the tip the same height as on the other side, marked by a marker...I mean making the tip symmetrical.



Filing the bevel to the same hight as it is on the other side, marking it with a marker.



Removing the rough file marks with fine file. Removing the fine file marks with a two sided bullcrap Topex stone. Mighty fine job, excluding the tons of dust causing me to caugh as hell.
Take note on the "dark spots"- low spots on steel. One pass at a time...one pass at a time...



Same photo, without flash.



Getting there...flattening the bevel. The low spots are getting smaller and smaller 'till they're gone.



Some fine tunning the curve. 



Now...since I can't measure hardness on the edge and on un-even parts...well...everywhere since it is a fille, thus full of grooves...I made this grooves untill I remove all file teeth to make hardness test as precies as I can.



Other side- fine file, bullcrap stone until it's all flat. Look at the bottom of ricasso. Do you like it?

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## Strider

Unfortunately, bad things happen, mistakes are always lurking from the dark. Only thing left to do is to learn from your mistakes, and pay lots of attenting (well...knowing myself... :D :D ). This end, the tang of the file will serve me as a HT test piece. I don't want to waste all work hours for nothing. 


Oil hardening turned out bad, barelly 38 HRCs... So I tried water the following time. Here's the result 8)


 


The real deal ;D



I have to admit, I was batshit scared. Water quenching turns out good only a small number of times, otherwise resulting in huge and long cracks, bends or clean breaks. Not this time, ooooohhhh!
Nice colors, wouldn't you agree? I still know not the reason for them.


 


 



Taaa daaa! Voila! Perfection!


 



Tempering cycle and we're good to go polishing. I might flame heath the handle so that it looses hardnes for drilling and weight-loss. More to come, gentlemen. Be critical, please. Josh, would you like any changes?



Sprung, I will polish the blade just after finishing this post, leaving the pattern visible, but making a mirror!

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## Strider

The polishing was postponed- college work. But...the woekshop isn't empty ;)



I've decided to remove the pattern...






 


Meanwhile...2 hour tempering cycle went superb!



Final result: 


Messing around with HV hardness...more on in tomorrow, I'm going to make an update.


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## Strider

The "twins" compared, one next to the other. I like them a lot.






Natural taper on the 2/3 (number two out of the three), right side.



The difference in the curves. 1/3 (number one out of three) has a weee bit longer handle...measured in milimeters.



And compared with the knife from the "two piece set", made out of chainsaw guide bar.

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## Sprung

Strider said:


> I've decided to remove the pattern...
> View attachment 63183



Loris, if I'm keeping track of everything correctly, this one is mine, correct? Because I'm loving how it's looking and turning out!

Nice work on all of them! Getting more and more excited each time you post pics!

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## Strider

Correct, that is the one reserved on your name. I was intending to leave the quench pattern, but during polishing it looked really badass, so I took the long way around. I'm really glad you like it, Matt!

Oddly, though, I've tried to take the second blank, water quenched, and scratch the first one, oil quenched. It does not scratch, not at all! I'm confused here, I don't know what's going on anymore! :D Turns out both of them are 58-60 on the Rockwell C hardness scale. 

Anyway, more delay on the HV hardness story, I've taken the wrong numbers I reckon. More on that the next time. But, to keep you from salivating until; the pictures show the microscope magnified surface of the knife, blank number one (oil quenched), handle for that matter, at the most clean and even area (well, non, to be exact, I didn't preapare the surface). Hardness by Vickers is the most correct as it tests it on the microstructure level, far smaller than HRC in any case. A little math- you place the force on the rectangle based diamond pyramid penetrator and mesure the imprint as seen above- the big black rectange. Then...well...you do magic with numbers, take Kraut's engineering manual and voila, you get the hardness by Vickers. Unfortunately, the scales cannot be really converted, only compared, but, the principle's the same- the higher the number, the harder it is!


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## Strider

This one is for @jmurray. It was sanded smooth before HT, just to make things easier. Unfortunately, there was some small pitting on the surface, so I'm sanding it all down, one pass at a time. This was done using #320 grit sandpaper.
One heck of a sharp tip!


 
See the small dots, those are pitting. There are around half a dozen of risers above ricasso, they run deep, so it will take me some time to remove the bastards. But I'm getting there ;)


 
This is how I do it. 



The pits are fewer in numbers with evey minute.


 
Most are gone, only a few remain on the central part of the blade. Skeemy little...


 
Well, they acutally look good now LOL! :D


 
More to come...

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## ssgmeader

Wow what an awesome thread. I think I may have to get in line to get a knife.


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## Johnturner

Beautiful work.


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## Strider

Thank You, gentlemen! Your words mean a lot to me! Even more if all of You show a bit of criticism, it's always good!
This piece is for @jmurray. Still wet from WD40 and smells like a perfume. Taking down all of those marks, grooves, risers and scratches. Very laborious and tiring part, as you have to be careful not to split open your palm or separate the nail from the rest of the tenners by wedging the tip between the two. And neck, the neck hurts like hell from all that staring down! :o 



I told you before- I've started using stones for removing scratches. I guess one might use them to polish, if one has finer stones. Oh, whait, one does use them for finest polishing...if one is a Japanese blacksmith specialized in katana polishing!  They do it, so can we. You can see that the finer side of my Modex cheap as dirt stone is doing a mighty fine job...



There are some lowspots, seen as dark spots, fields, and each is full of scratches. Interestingly, though, there seems to be a connection between the fine(r) finish before HT and the pitting- small but deep holes on the surface of the metal caused by oxidation. I'll look into it!



They are getting smaller. But the holes run deep.



Shiny and sharp!




Pitting. Actually, it doesn't look to bad, does it? I'm lacking coarse paper, so 230 does the job (but very slowly!). Nice picture, by the way.



And the small low spot areas, full of grooves- a closeup.



Siblings they are :D


 
Tomorrow I continue

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## justallan

WOW! Nice work, Loris.
I'll be watching the rest of this.
Thanks for sharing.


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## Strider

Thanks, Mr. Allan! I do my best to share the ups and downs of the bizz.
The work photos from Wednesday to Friday. I'm done with the riser removing from the #2 blank (for Josh). Just after writing this post, I'm finishing it to 1500# grit, and sharpening it to sick levels.
Bad AF; Ever finer grit removes the deep lines and pitting holes. I like how the round ricasso turned out! I did accidently pass over it a couple of times due to sloppy errors- old rabbits die hard! So it's not triangle when viewed from below, rather it has a small chamfer on the sides.



Blurry yet again.



Getting there!



No words necessary...



So, I redid the HV test. Not HIV, but hardness by Vickers test :D
Take a relatively clean field...Bump it with the penetrator...



Find the dent the penetrator made. This time a rectangle made by a four sided diamond pyramid whose sides are sloped at 136 degrees. On the contrary, the Rockwell method has a diamond cone penetrator with the angle od 120 degrees, thus leaving a hole.



Then you rotate the...erm...eye piece so that the line forms a diagonal in the square and then you move black the sliding shade/screen at the right corner. You take out the meassures...



Simplified:
0 (less than one line; number of lines from the diagonal to the screen)
072 (write the number on the dial after the first number)
072 + 012 (add the fault- when you place the edge of the screen on any line, the dial should show 0, but it shows 88...so you manually compensate the flaw.)
end up with 084. Then you add a zero in front and get 0.084. and I will add the final result tomorrow as I don't have the Kraut's manual at hand :D
(the photo shows the step #2, the number on the dial).




This one is on the blank #1, for Matt.
Rotate and position as above, like a diagonal on the semi-sqare (lol!). Anyway, you should add a second diagonal, on the other corners, perpendicular on the first one. If the square is not a square, just a randomish rectangle, just for the precision.



One point something something from the diagonal to the black screen of death...or over one line to the corner. The rest is on the dial.

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## Strider

For Josh: 0.084. Take the 0.08 value in the column 4 -> 1314 HV
For Matt: 0.123. Take the 0.12 value in the column 3 -> 1246 HV

It isn't really comparable with other hardnesses, but it is really close...Look at the transformation charts. HV measures microhardness, while HRC overall.


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## Strider

Pick your wood, @jmurray! ;D Bog oak, all of them...Dry as a bone.


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## Strider

Updated about hardnesses!


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## jmurray

Gonna be sweeeeet


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## Strider

That it shall! ;)
Here are some more photos. The handle will be an easy task, I reckon, at least time-wise. Have you picked your morta piece for scale making, Josh? 

Removing the finish from the end of the tang, as Josh asked for a polished spine/belly.


 
There is a lot of work involved, filthy work...


 
But behind the darkest cloud the Sun is shining. Or, perhaps, it's the reflection from this beast! :D (the specs are dust).

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## Strider

I have contacted Josh about the handle on his piece. The abonos block (or something that resembles it) I chose and cut to make two scales out of and assembled it onto the knife was too soft and too crumbly for me to leave it as it is. I took it down and went all over again. This tome it is a better piece, wider grain, darker, but there'll be more off cuts. Nevermind that. Lots of dust, lots of work!

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## Strider

So...I've been busy, college and personal shite takes a lot of time. The knife would have been already done until Christmas for @jmurray but you'll see why it won't. Sadly. I apologize :I


 
A vice and a saw is all I need. I've got the eye to keep things in line.

 
Mysterious piece of wood this bog oak is...I guess it being thousands of years old isn't enough on its own...I turned on the small belt sander I have, with a really spent 150# grit paper, you know, just to speed things up. The funny thing is the belt sander didn't eat the wood, at least not as much as 140# paper clamped on the table did, using only my hands (I do this every time, it is reaaaaally effective). On the contrary, it burnt the wood, and polish it to a nice finish. And, I discovered a small bonus- this bonus, the gold vein water mark can be seen in the photo below. I need to sample some more pieces to find out if it will do that every time. I got the wood prepared. Is it due to the heath and minerals in the wood? Some natural occurring phenomena? I don't know, but I bloody love it!


 

 

 
Of course, bastard wood as it is, it splits like a fart. 


 
The indented scales...with matching grain.


 
Don't mind the black mess below and on the table. Usually this gets all over my living room! :D Yes, my mom hates me.
Pay attention to the 140# grit paper clamped on the table or any flat surfaces. That's how I do my scales. 


 
More work regarding thickness.


 
Drawn outlines.


 
Aaand drilling time! This knife will have hidden pins. Why? Because I never did them before. I put the math in use and hi-tech drawings on paper.


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## Strider

~6 mm holes in the wood on each side, plus 6 mm of metal would do the job securing the scales on the knife.



See the highly technical drawing below. And the math, yes, I forgot the math! :D So. I have a pin that is 22.3 mm long and it should be 18 mm long. That should secure the scales on the tang. Should.



Then after precise cutting with a angle grinder you get 17 mm hahahahaha :'D



My, my, an old project of mine. One pin I have taken has a second, 2mm SS pin inlayed in it. Looking good.



Idiot as I am, I've drilled the last hole all the way trough. I hate myself sometimes >:I I could reverse the scale, so that the first hole matches the last hole on the tang, but neither works, as I have corrected the handle shape and now it is asymmetrical, throwing away that option. I will not let my products by a make-shif business. I could have drilled all of them- I won't. I will not fill the hole with black dust and glue- it will be visible. So I went all over again, making the scales form scratch.



See the pin and how the hole isn't equally distanced to the belly and the spine? See the last tang hole? No way I will pin it! Next time, make the shape first, then drill.



These scales aren't a match so I left them for some future projects. Different grain orientation, and different color.



So...After ruining yet one more scale set- I didn't rotate the handle when drawing again, so I basically made a second right sided scale, and fixed that successfully, but the wood was rotten and after cleaning with a rasp, way to thin. No more jokes, no more messing around. This big block on the left was sawed and axed to pieces for the perfect scale I am currently working on. The SD card on my cell was full so this is the only photo.



More work after this post, more photos as well.

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## Strider

Pardon me, gentlemen, I've been away for the past 8 days. I had been rasping a lot, primer that.


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## Strider

So, the block has been sawed and shaped, then sanded flat. Yet another fine piece of abonos. I have made such a handle placement so that they are diagonal to the grain and both scales are book-page symmetrical. 
Below you can see the hidden pin drilling. Same mesurments as before, 5 or so mm in each scale.



Then rough sawing. This is a PUK Germany wooden saw leaf. It goes trough wood like butter! I've used it on bone as well and it never got dull after all this time. Behind the saw, lying on the table is an already cut scale. 
Take a llok at the color of the abonos wood. Black and gray lines twist around each other. 


I thank Tom for this superb adhesive tape! This is how I "set" my scales onto the pins and the tang. Little by little I keep turning the vice, generally in the middle of the handle, and alter if necessarry, ant you see the pin go in (lol, I can't believe I said that haha)! A perfect fit so far. Prior that I've marked the middle of the pin so that it is positioned in the middle of the tang as well. 
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01514.jpg 
Rasping time! Abonos is another SOB wood, if you know what I mean. It will splinter before your stroke fell! This is, IMHO, the easiest way to properly outline the scales, directly on the knife. 



Got it preeety close. I stop using the rasp now, and start using very fine files. Cool photo, would you agree? 


Drilling time. I will never use this drill again! It makes figure 8, that's why some holes are outta order. 


Marking the thickness of the sales. I think I went for the safe 8 mm thickness.


I tried to connect the two halves and suceeded. They fit very neatly! 


I rasped and sanded them to a close fit, almost the same thickness :))


Well, on one side, at least :'D Oh, and I had to chamfer, or widen the holes in the wood to prevend splintering. I did the same with the pins. Any sharp edges will bite into the wood.

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## Strider

Mornin'!
In medias res- there was a crack to fix. First i split it a bit more, then I glued it and rasped it down in the end.


 For the full process of making the scales even I tried gluing them with a thin coat of wood glue, but with a piece of paper between. Well...that turned out to be tricky, the glue was too strong, even when applied in a thin coat. So I removed it as seen below haha. However, there was no damage. The shaping was a success, though.


 This method of separating proved better.


 Marking the middle of the pin. Behind the knife you can see my scribbling, simple math for the depth of each hole for each pin.


 A nice fit indeed! Again, mounting the scale onto the knife with a vice. I am keen to find out how the suede liner will interlock with the file teeth ;)


 Final round file jobs regarding the profile and the curves. The flat one would prove to difficult as the corners will always and I mean always cut into the wood. See the chamfer on the pins.


 I don't have a clue what this one is about lol.


 But, taking it down is an art by itself! I put the knife half way from the table and then tap the pins. As the holes are not all the way trough the wood, the scale will pop right off. Or I thought. The grip is superb and I had to abuse it to take them down.


 This part is improtant, as one will always file at the wrong angle. This part needs to be flat. And the one is me, of course.



But I did learn my lesson. Ordinary glue this tome, worked like a charm! x)
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01571.jpg

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## Strider

Before the gluing process, the knife has to be clean. Polished, in this case, is out of the option :P A nice firm steel brush and the rust and filth is gone. Final work on the flattening of the scales on this stone table. These sandpaper tracks are very durable. 150 grit, and after weeks of work, it still bites.

 This was odd. After brushing, some shiny specs were visible, lodged between the teeth. Leftover aluminum, by the look of it. Who know what this file was used for. I dislodged them with the tip of the round file. 


 Gluing process and the steel family above. This bag contains all my tools, omnia mea mecum porto! 
The epoxy above, 6 gr x 2, is the fast curing, 5 minute epoxy with the yield strength of 130 kg/cm^2. Strong, but still not as hard as others, you can put an imprint with your nail on it. But it does me good. And it smells awful, like hot, dead ass on a carcass, that could gag a maggot. :D 


 Cutting the suede spacer and the "window/cutouts" for the pins to pass trough. 


 Mixing the epoxy glue. Three mins of mixing as advised!


 It then turns to pearly white and then goes transparent. All holes were filled to the top.


 Two days later. 
Sadly, I lacked my vice. That's why I had to use the clamps again. They weren't the best solution, as they tend to flex the wood and twist it as well. So the wood needed a slightly higher...push onto the pins :S, resulting it cracks on one side. They are not visible, but they've could have been herd while twisting the clamps xO All was glued. The epoxy is a bit to viscose and dense for the leather to soak in, and that's why I didn't get the wanted result- leather interlocked with the teeth of the file. On some parts, epoxy can be seen, but I will take a shot of that photo afterwards. :I 



A firm grip was needed. On the top, the glossy and transparent matter is the cured epoxy, from filling the crack. 


 Another crack yet remains, but it was rasped away ;)


 Ironically, I forgot that I drilled one side too deep. Not you can see the pin and the epoxy. I actually like it :D But, I will fix it by drilling another pin into it if @jmurray agrees...or fill it with black dust and epoxy. 


 This wood is reversely proportional, beauty to problem. It acts like a diva, all crazy and sh*t, but beautiful and superb when properly handled. Take a close look at the silver medullary rays! Amazing!


 More leather and excess epoxy to file down. Lots of work...


 I love the grain, book page symmetry. The gray and black colors are sweet. BUT- I dislike the way leather didn't go into the teeth of the file! Made me mad. 



The shape is here!


 Wow! *.*


 Down-the-spine-shot. 


 More work right now ;)

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## Strider

Matt's box has arrived and as soon as I could, I started working! 
Cherry burl block and my way of making scales out of it.


 

 
Took a turn just at the bottom. Sandpaper fixed that.



And, after only so many cuts, there they go! 


 Now...after sanding all 4 sides smooth, I marked them in the numerical order, as they rest in the photo above. 1 and 4 are outer sides, and 2 and 3 are the inner scales sides. After talking with @Sprung, he gave me the green light to place them as I please. I chose the the inner scale sides to glue to the tang, as they have more voids and cracks, thought still forming a nice book page symmetry! 


 

 
The position is marked, judging by the beauty of the other side! Voids have been filled with CA and coal dust.


 Drilling time ;) A perfect line, 5 mm. 


 
Widening them with a 6.5 mm drill bit. Why? Because I lost my cone stone. I usually use it. 


 This hole was fun! Well, I'm sarcastic. The vice failed, and as I was drilling, the scale went up and the bit drilled more than it should lol! Still, no damage.

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## Sprung

Yay! This is exciting! It's cool to see wood that was in your hands less than 3 weeks ago be on a different continent being made into a knife handle for a knife for you. Just awesome! Looking forward to getting this knife when it's completed!

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## Molokai

Looks like its going to be lots of voids, if needed i can make turquoise inlay for free, just let me know

Reactions: Like 2


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## Strider

Sprung said:


> Yay! This is exciting! It's cool to see wood that was in your hands less than 3 weeks ago be on a different continent being made into a knife handle for a knife for you. Just awesome! Looking forward to getting this knife when it's completed!


True as it gets ;) I like the burl, it is very pleasant to work with. I never worked with the stab. wood before, so I'm walking on my toes! 



Molokai said:


> Looks like its going to be lots of voids, if needed i can make turquoise inlay for free, just let me know


Sweet idea! I already filled some with coal dust and CA, but @Sprung wants it, it is an option, ofc! 
Someone took the drill away, the drill stand is empty, so all I could have done this time is some math. Calipers, pencil and paper- just to be sure and avoid splitting the wood this time, as with the other knife from this batch...but first, some pins had to be made!
This last rod of 5mm brass was warped so I had to straighten it- just like you would straighten a wire: take a piece of plexiglass or anything stiff and smooth and put it on a flat surface. Roll the piece on the wire...or a rod in this case...But subtract the smooth surface with a piece of heavy and flat steel and add 800C! :D Did what it was supposed to- it is dead flat now. 


 Prepping for the cutting...and marking with the calipers.


 ...the works with that knife stops for today. 

Time for the other knife ;)

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## Strider

Hi! Progress is slow due to tons of exams! I apologize to yee followers! 
I finally got the hang of this cheap as dirt fret saw! Instead of pulling the wire like a mad man with pliers, I press the two ends of the saw towards each other, insert the wire and tighten the screw. The end result is nicely stretched wire that makes a hight pitched piiiing noise when you cross it with your finger. Unlike before, the wire doesn't bend and break...well...not as much :D
I've bought the wire saw leaves twice...first buy was a spiral, all direction leaf, but it leaves very uneven and rought surface, unprecise. This one, below is for metal, to fine so progress is slow. Third time the charm! 


 But, it cuts...


 ...and cuts! There are two broken leaves so far :S



The spireal leaf/wire and flat one behind- a comparison test.


 The spiral wire really cuts faster and with more ease, but it's more prone to bending as it is thinner, thus prone to breaking. 


 The difference in roughness after cutting with the wires. The rougher one is, you've guessed it- the spiral saw wire.


 And this lil' devil was taking a close watch at what I was doing.

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## Strider

Hot damn! I really do photo-bomb this forum with pictures! I hope they don't clog it haha .D

Aaaanyway, I finally caught some time between the finals and bought a better epoxy so I went straight to the workshop just as the first spring-like sun went behind the horizon. Working for @Sprung in the early spring lol. Eminem ain't got nothing on me!
I am going to miss this happy family! I found a nice ~30 cm piece of 5mm brass rod, for making pins. I thought I spent all. Half of it goes to Tom.


 Making new measures...Instead of dealing and drilling the wood, I file and shorten the pins. Number 1, 3 and 5 are on the tang already, I made them last time... 2 and 3 have to be made. No angle grinder this time...


 ...because we got this beauty! Bacho tools are really good, buy them! I swear to you, it went trough the brass like nothing! More precision, less time working. 



Now...as this hidden-pin construction is hard to make, regarding off-the-tang-symmetry- I mean, if I make the scales identical one to another, when mounting them, they will not be the same, as the pin holes were drilled at an angle, due to a bad drill stand. That's why the scales would be off by less than a mm, but still enough for a small dose of rage. 


 
After drawing and rasping one shoulder of the scale, I use it as an template for the other one, roughly making them symmetrical. 

 
Preparing the suede spacer. Note: first hole (from the right) was cut with a knife, and the others were punched with a pin directly in the hole. You see what I'm aiming for...

 New epoxy! Though expensive, it is more user friendly, transparent, stinks far less and is harder when cured. The package includes a small mixing container and a spatula, and a cap for further use.


 Pardon my French, I pressed the bat guana out of it (Eminem, you tosser!)...no cracks, no splinters.

 Though I applied a thin coat, it was dripping due to gripping (I should start composing, too) :D 


 
The knife is in my bag, still clamped. I will put it on a radiator, so the heath hardens and cures it even more!

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## Strider

As I have promised the buyers, here be the photos. These are a couple of weeks old, more even! The projects are surely coming to an end.
One thread, one knife. This was taken for you guys to see the difference between the spiral fret saw leaf (upper) and and the regular fine teeth leaf surface smoothness after sawing. @Sprung, check out the worm holes lol. http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01938.jpg
Closeup of the holes. Really nice wood coloring and grain.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01939.jpg
Reeaaaly nice grain, I was surprised and amazed with the ease of it's working (stab. wood, for that matter). Thank you Sprung for making ti possible for me! Also, I was checking out the depth of the (out of focus) black area, CA and bog oak dust filled void. Went all the way down.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01940.jpg
But, I've learnt prior to leaving the CA/dust filled void to cure, I need to poke it with a needle or mic it thoroughly for the air bubbles to come out. Bastards.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01941.jpg
The shoulders of the handle are symmetrical, all though pic shows otherwise lol :D
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01942.jpg
Working this area with a chainsaw round file is hell on earth due to this leather spacers. They really clog it up and make tons of dust.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01963.jpg
Making the back even
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01964.jpg
Also one of the trickiest parts. The end of the handle. My vice ain't flat is what I've discovered.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01965.jpg
Always the same technique.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01966.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01967.jpg
I had to pay attention as the ends and voids don't make a fun combo. They break and splinter
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01968.jpg
Yeaaah...The shape is great!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01969.jpg
And the dust from stab. wood is like one from plastics- it sticks to everything!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01970.jpg
Conturing. Nice hips to this lady ;) Erotique!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01971.jpg
This one is deep
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01972.jpg
The end of that part. Now to do some final shaping, finishing and polishing the back and the belly.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01993.jpg
The suede leather spacers really dug into the file's teeth, I am so satisfied. Once covered with CA, the leather turns dark brown and makes a nice color.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01994.jpg
Saturating the spacers with CA
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02001.jpg
The shoulders turned out great! All symmetrical and bat guana.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02002.jpg

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## Strider

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02003.jpg
Then Tom invited me to come to his house and work with him a bit. A really nice afternoon both by the weather and the taste of the meat and beer.
His machine works like a charm, he saved me tons of hours. Good guy Tom, the masked vendetta :D


 Blasted be my camera, blasted!


 Finally a good shot. Got the highcarbon sparks right.


 His big hands could strangle a bear to death, but he could powder up a mosquito, shade it's eyes and put some lipstick on too.


 

 I guess they have more photos of snow leopard and Yetti having a chocolate fondue.




Just prior to typing this post I have finished the handle, filled every-single-one of the voids with the dust and CA. And started re-sanding the blade from 400# upwards due to some scratches Tom discovered that day.

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## Sprung

Loris, that is looking SWEET! Can't wait to get it when it's done!

(And aren't you glad I sent two of those blocks - that way you've got one for yourself too. That really is an awesome piece of Cherry Burl.)

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Strider

Thank you, friend, your words mean a lot :))
I was not planing to post the photos yet, till they're all done, but I got so excited, like a school girl on a crush. Must be the metal dust frenzy, turned my brain into a squishy soup, I went haywire guys :D

As @jmurray gave me permission to do as I please, I've decided to remove the visible pin. Though it looks nice, it still is an error, and it slaps my ego every time I laid my eyes on it. Mosaic pin insert will be made, the material is below the handle.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01980.jpg
One last look. Geee, I really love the grain and color of the bog oak as well. Gray and black, superb. I mush have caught the wood dementia for sure. All I thing is metal and wood. Well, hooters as well, I won't lie.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01981.jpg
Mark the center, and start drilling. It was pretty soft, the epoxy I used.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01982.jpg
Pardon the blur
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01983.jpg
Really slow drilling with the 5 mm
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01984.jpg
It made the cutest little spiral cutouts!
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01985.jpg
Just look at it :D
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01986.jpg
Then, I took a bigger drill bit.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01987.jpg
And the bastard turned into the wood, missed the center and refused to drill the brass pin. Why? It is HSS pin, sharp and never used before.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01988.jpg


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## Strider

Then I took a 4mm drill bit and marked the center of the pin, drilling just it. But it wouldn't drill, not with light nor with hard pressure! And it drilled a triangle shape, not a circle.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01989.jpg
I went making pins, frustrated. Oiled and hammered into each other. Light taps.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01990.jpg
The inner one had to be dee-burred...

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01991.jpg
...for the thinnest brass pin to be inserted. Glued with CA, just to be sure.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01992.jpg
Cut to length afterwards. This Bacho leaf EATS the metal.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01996.jpg
D0n't know why the heck did I take this photo.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC01999.jpg
It fits nicely. 
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02000.jpg
See the CA on top.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02000.jpg
After the new epoxy and the wood's dust cured, I went drilling it.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02007.jpg
Drilled it with ease...
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02008.jpg


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## Strider

Tapped it in, and added some more CA around the bloke.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02009.jpg
While it was curing, I worked on the shoulders, they required some touching up.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02010.jpg
The belt sander, as low quality as it is, made a good job ruining my work, as always- I really should keep to my hands. It bit so lightly, the metal pin, I mean, I had to press hard. And it god smoking hot. Turned the epoxy into a putty. Didn't know that, as they're duromer polymers. Following that incident, I made a couple of notches on the sides of the pin for a better grip....but turned it the other way around! :I


 Thus exposing one of the notches on the lower side. Idiot. When it isn't going well, stop working already!


 Took it out by force Stuck a 4mm drill bit with some speed to it and it popped right out.


 Made a new one and there it goes, no mistakes this time. Worked like a charm!


 Then Tom, depicting Mr. Bane, the antihero, took things in his hands and on his belt and made my life easier, by sanding the back of the blade and polished it to better shine than I ever could have.


 


 



More to come! Stay tuned, and ask questions.

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## Sprung

Loris, I just gotta say that I've come back and looked through the latest pics of my knife 4 or 5 times now - I am just so excited with how awesome it's turning out and the great work you are doing (and thank you to Tom too for his help and work)! I'm very excited for whenever it arrives and to put it to good use!

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## Strider

Well, thank you a lot, friend, you made my day. That means the world for me. I hoped my first order would be a success, even a fraction of what I think of it at the moment. I couldn't be more proud! Better yet, you say you like it. And I just got my veneer from KY. Can it get any better?! :D

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## Molokai

Strider said:


> Can it get any better?! :D


yes, you can win the lottery !


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## Strider

And the journey for one of the three is complete. It will be sent throught the couple of days and, hopefully, delivered intact to @Sprung.
So...CA finishing. A couple of coats, sanded in between with 800# and lastly with 1000# paper. Smooth as a toosh! Highly polished as well.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02359.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02360.jpg

With CA, still wet. Love the colors.
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02361.jpg

Self explainatory
http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02362.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02363.jpg

http://i651.Rule #2/albums/uu237/Strider60/Echo%20drop/Turpije%20drop/DSC02366.jpg
Drool away from the keyboard :D

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## Sprung

Can't wait to receive this, Loris!  Just amazing!


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## Strider

Glad you like it. Hopefully, you'll find a nice purpose for this crowbar.


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## Sprung

Strider said:


> Glad you like it. Hopefully, you'll find a nice purpose for this crowbar.



While I won't be using it as a crowbar, I will definitely be looking forward to putting it to use!


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## Strider

Surely not a toothpick!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sprung

Strider said:


> Surely not a toothpick!



I think I'll see how well these things do at cutting things!  (And hopefully not cutting myself! )


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## Strider

The knife has been delivered to @Sprung yesterday. By his accounts, all went well. He is happy, and so am I!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sprung

Yes - very happy!

And I'll post pics when I get a chance to take some, lol.


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## Strider

Since his brother left for the USofA, I continued the most laborious project ever!
The shoulders needed to be cleaned of the excess epoxy. A sharp knife did the job. The epoxy peeled away like old skin. A very fun thing to do.



Those who followed this thread should know that the shoulders, or tops of handle scales, were not aligned so that needed fixing. First I was using sandpaper but it was rounding the wood, so I took files instead.


 The soft bat guana epoxy needed to be dug out in order to make a good fit. CA did far better job. Never again am I using that epoxy.


 As @Sprung told me the handle on his knife was superb, surely this one was too thick. That's why I took off some more wood. The pin unveiled, but I don't mind, the contrast of colors is mesmerizing! 


 Taking wood on the other side. See how the pins start to appear? I dug the epoxy out, as the pin wasn't as long as it is on the other side, a mistake I will pay attention to next time I make a hidden pin knife. So one side has the pins, the other doesn't. 


 Taaaa-daaaaa (white spots are excess CA)...


 Clean shoulders. Sealing the suede spacer with CA.


 Protecting the belly from scratching.


 And the back. I love the teeth that remained from the file!


 Sanding the upper spine, above the blade on a fixed piece of paper.


 Final grit. Covering the sides.



Second coat of CA onto the leather spacer. I used a brass brush to clean the teeth.


 So I sealed it then, using True oil. It dried in matter of minutes, leaving a leathery film. Amazing wood grain and colors.


 In between the coats I sanded with 800# paper. Currently the 4th coat is drying.


 I like the matte finish!



Still wet and glossy.


 
Again, the matte finish, can't stop looking at it.


 

 
Hope you like it @jmurray

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## Molokai

Looking good ! Tell me what kind of rag are you using when applying tru oil ? I use silk type, synthetic. Looking on photos, your rag is leaving white particles.


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## jmurray

@Strider looking good brother.


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## Strider

I use some artificial material Vileda rag. Feels like leather, but more spongy. The particles, the lint, is most likely from the paper towel I used when theknife was drying. I don't mind, i am going to sand it any way.
Glad you like it! x)


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## HomeBody

I have a question about quenching. You say you quench with water. Do you use fresh water or salt water? I was always told to never quench in fresh water, only salt. Gary


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## Strider

Yes, I quench steel in water...






...steel that is meant to be quenched in water ;) Tool steels are generally quenched in water, I guess. Adding salt to water increases the cooling time by a bit, but still more rapid than oil and air to prevent cracks and warps. Oil is a good and proven method. Always test a small piece prior hardening process. 
Al/Cu plates are superb, as they prevent warping and cool the steel amazingly fast...and you don't need to worry about removing the burnt oil and scales. But they are tricky to handle and don't obtain the contact with the edge itself.
Hope you got the answer you wanted.


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## Molokai

@jmurray is this leather sheath good?

Reactions: EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 1


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## jmurray

Molokai said:


> @jmurray is this leather sheath good?View attachment 79566


Above expectations as always

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## NYWoodturner

Absolutely beautiful sheath Tom 

Socks with the sandals gotta go though bud...

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Molokai

@jmurray Jim, i know we agree on 40 $ but i kind of jumped you on this leather sheath. Since i wasnt active on last auction i will say 30 $ and you can donate it to the Wood Barter. Thanks and thank you Wood barter for awesome site and awesome people...

Edit. We discussed a price for this leather sheath over conversation in previous months.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Strider

Seems like we keep catching green light, so I am going to politely ask- does anyone have a million bucks to spare? No? A yacht, perhaps? Dammit, had to try lol.

I am happy that the customer is happy with the products. We two have discussed about the goodies the whole afternoon, and the sheath above is a good match. Superb quality, Tom did a good job, a great job in fact. The sheath length and the width of the oppening and handle are alike- the fit is strong. Should you a desire to change anything- let us know!


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## Sprung

My plan has been to have my grandfather help me make a sheath for my knife this summer when we're visiting as he's been a hobbyist leather worker for longer than I've been alive and we don't always see eye to eye, so I was thinking that making something together might be good for our relationship. But now I'm almost thinking I should've had Tom make one for me!

Nice knife and sheath!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Strider

Well, lets just say I am barely patient to see the photos. Make a WIP thread, I am sure your grandpa can teach us rookies a thing or two ;)


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## Sprung

Strider said:


> Well, lets just say I am barely patient to see the photos. Make a WIP thread, I am sure your grandpa can teach us rookies a thing or two ;)



I'll try to get some pics in progress, but can't make any guarantees - we will only be seeing my grandparents for 3 or 4 hours during our trip and will likely try to make somewhat quick work of it so that leather work doesn't dominate the entire time we're there.


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## Strider

Well, any photo taken is better than none! :D

Here be the photos mr. @jmurray requested. Raaawr!
First two: Repairing the sharpening risers with a strop. Other...just me trying to act like a photographer LOL

Reactions: Like 3 | EyeCandy! 1


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## NYWoodturner

Loris - For all that you went through on that knife it turned out pretty damned well. The mirror polish you got is excellent. I like the contrast of seeing it fade from file to polish in about a half inch. Ive seen knives made of files before but never taken to a mirror polish.


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## Sprung

NYWoodturner said:


> Loris - For all that you went through on that knife it turned out pretty damned well. The mirror polish you got is excellent. I like the contrast of seeing it fade from file to polish in about a half inch. Ive seen knives made of files before but never taken to a mirror polish.



He got the same polish on my knife - it looks quite good and impressive in person! And he got a real good edge on it too!


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## Strider

Agreed, NYWT, for all that trouble it turned out better than I anticipated. The wood loves to splinter, expand and shrink, it's a bit bitchy LOL :D I have no comments for the steel...except it is bloody hard. The difference in sanding it prior HT and after can be measured in more papers per grit in one case than another...I had trouble sharpening it- that's why the #800 left its marks, as it was so hard to take down such a small, near sharp, blade thickness to a proper sharpness. I cracked and took my good old steeling rod. I don't know why, but shouldn't it be the other way around? It barely takes any metal from the blade...A few strokes and it was popping hairs. Finished with 1500# again and with the strop and you have a sick blade to cut your self with!
Oh, and the file teeth. I first thought you can't sand over them or file them out, but they are deep and very forgiving. If I wanted to, I could have polished them as well...I mean their peaks, flattening them in the process. Looks brutal, IMHO. 

Thank you a mil! Now, the 3/3 file is about to start, no more issues on that matter, I've learned from my mistakes!


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