# OUCH!!!



## Lou Currier (Oct 22, 2017)

Can you spot what wrong with this picture? The good thing is that the turner was wearing a face shield preventing a very serious injury. Turn safe my friends!

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## ripjack13 (Oct 22, 2017)

Careful Lou, you're gunna stain it red....

What happened? Stick it in too far and caught?


----------



## Lou Currier (Oct 22, 2017)

Not mine...pic was posted on Facebook and there are a few lessons that can be learned from this picture.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## rocky1 (Oct 22, 2017)

That doesn't appear to be even a little user friendly there.


----------



## ripjack13 (Oct 22, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> Not mine...pic was posted on Facebook and there are a few lessons that can be learned from this picture.



What's the lesson?


----------



## ripjack13 (Oct 22, 2017)

Wrong tool to hollow?

Reactions: Agree 4


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 23, 2017)

ripjack13 said:


> Wrong tool to hollow?



Yes, and then some.

It's a spindle gouge -- sometimes called "Continental spindle gouge" because it was popular in Europe. The metal is simply not thick enough to hang over the tool rest when hollowing a bowl or hollowform.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


----------



## Schroedc (Oct 23, 2017)

I just realized, I don't even own a spindle gouge. Always a good reminder to use the right tool for the job.


----------



## Nature Man (Oct 23, 2017)

Guess the next question would be, what tool should have been used? Chuck


----------



## Nubsnstubs (Oct 23, 2017)

A bowl gouge would be my choice, and if that became a problem, I would go to one of my round carbide tools. If the opening was a large enough, the end of the tool rest would also be inserted to assist in tool support................ Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## DKMD (Oct 23, 2017)

In addition to the wrong tool, it appears that the tenon is too long. There should be a shoulder resting flush against the top of the jaws... the tenon should never bottom out in the chuck.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 5 | Informative 3


----------



## Mike1950 (Oct 23, 2017)

looks to me like he has been letting spinning objects touch his hand- thus the burns..... Dern turners wastin wood and perfectly good fingers.....

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 23, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> I just realized, I don't even own a spindle gouge. Always a good reminder to use the right tool for the job.


Colin, I don't believe there's any risk associated with using a bowl gouge for spindle work -- "too sturdy" is not a problem 

If you were trying to do intricate beads and coves on a finial it would be more difficult than with a spindle detail gouge, but not dangerous.


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 23, 2017)

Nubsnstubs said:


> A bowl gouge would be my choice, and if that became a problem ...



Mine too -- followed by a scraper of some kind (whether HSS or carbide). And nowadays, I'd probably use my articulated-arm hollowing jig.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Schroedc (Oct 23, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Colin, I don't believe there's any risk associated with using a bowl gouge for spindle work -- "too sturdy" is not a problem
> 
> If you were trying to do intricate beads and coves on a finial it would be more difficult than with a spindle detail gouge, but not dangerous.



Oh yes, I use my 1/2 inch bowl gouge with a fingernail grind for a lot of spindle work, the skew gets in the small areas, plus there's always the EWT carbides as well.


----------



## kweinert (Oct 23, 2017)

DKMD said:


> In addition to the wrong tool, it appears that the tenon is too long. There should be a shoulder resting flush against the top of the jaws... the tenon should never bottom out in the chuck.



Not only too long but too big. Only 8 points of contact on that set of jaws.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 2 | Informative 1


----------



## Lou Currier (Oct 23, 2017)

@DKMD and @kweinert picked up on the second issue of this turning. Some people flirt with disaster like this for a long time before getting bit. Some good reminders to turn safe using the right tools and techniques.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## ripjack13 (Oct 23, 2017)

DKMD said:


> In addition to the wrong tool, it appears that the tenon is too long. There should be a shoulder resting flush against the top of the jaws... the tenon should never bottom out in the chuck.



Now that is something I was not aware of....
Thanks doc...

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 23, 2017)

Just in case anyone thought that tools only break when you abuse them ...

Here is a parting tool that I was using on some fresh-cut log. It's one of Doug Thompson's, and they are about as good a tool as you can find these days. I think there was an inclusion of some sort in the wood (a knot, maybe) which caught the tip, which caused downward pressure, which caused the log to flex and pinch ...

Of course Doug sent a replacement within hours of me telling him what happened, "because Doug".

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## Mike Mills (Oct 23, 2017)

I can't even imagine trying to turn a hollow form that deep (6" or 7"?) with a spindle or bowl gouge. 
I have trouble keeping bevel contact scooting around some transition areas (corners ) in bowls. Guess I need a lot of practice.


Lou Currier said:


> Some people flirt with disaster like this for a long time before getting bit.


I agree, I saw a video a while back and the the youtube poster stated that it was extremely dangerous... and he still turned without a face shield. No problem occured but...

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## TimR (Oct 23, 2017)

Good feedback, I'll just add that the right tool going beyond a few inches overhanging the tool rest is a boring bar. Decent rule of thumb for boring bars diam is 15x the diam for max depth. This isn't exact, but decent approx. for 3/8" to 1" diam bars.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Karda (Oct 28, 2017)

thanks for posting that is a good lesson. "Colin, I don't believe there's any risk associated with using a bowl gouge for spindle work " I was under the impression you were not to use a spindle roughing gouge in end grain for any reason what soever because it wasn't designed for that kind of stress. That is what bowl gouges are for. But I could have missed something I haven't been turning long


----------



## duncsuss (Oct 28, 2017)

Karda said:


> I could have missed something I haven't been turning long


I don't think you missed anything -- never use a spindle roughing gouge for anything except roughing a spindle.

A bowl gouge is very sturdy, and can be used for all sorts of work -- spindles, bowls, hollowforms, etc -- so long as you have clearance to glide the bevel on the workpiece (and keep the wings from hitting if you're cutting V grooves or making beads, for which it's easier to use a narrower tool like a spindle gouge or skew.)

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Spinartist (Nov 2, 2017)

I never teach hollowing a vase with a gouge. Scraper, boring bar, or any hollowing system is the tool to use!

Reactions: Agree 3 | Informative 1


----------



## Robert Baccus (Nov 14, 2017)

He's a pretty good turner---didn't bleed a bit on the pretty wood.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Karda (Dec 12, 2017)

I recently saw on utube a turner use a spindle roughing gouge on a large blank he made from ply wood. He shaped the outside with roughing gouge, and the inside with the bowl gouge This guy seemed to be an experienced turner. i would never take that chance


----------



## David Van Asperen (Dec 12, 2017)

My goodness I just learned that I know nothing about turning ,turning tool use, and more. But I did learn more from reading this thread than I will ever remember. Thanks for all the good advice in case I ever decide to turn I will need do do a lot of reading and learning before starting that type of project


----------

