# sphincter puckering oops.



## wyowoodwrker (Apr 2, 2014)

So need some advice and have a question for the hollow form guys.... I was working on a piece today and was about a third or so hollowed... I'm.using a Sorby swan neck tool. I wasnt paying enough attention to the tool position on the rest and got a catch twisting the tool right where I shouldn't of had it... well it was enough force to snap the tennon off in the jaws and send the peice flying... I really like the grain orentation on this and would hate to loose it. Unfortunately I already drilled it out to the depth I wanted so I can't just put a new tenon on it... any ideas?


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## Schroedc (Apr 2, 2014)

How close were you to finished wall thickness? Maybe jamb chuck it, square off the bottom and glue on a block of contrasting wood, then turn a new tenon on that and then finish it out.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## wyowoodwrker (Apr 2, 2014)

Not very only maybe half way there...


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## NYWoodturner (Apr 2, 2014)

Nick - You aren't the first nor the last to have that happen. With that much meat left on the tenon, There is a good possibility that there is enough meat left in the sidewalls to just re-glue the original tenon. It won't be perfectly centered, but if you can get it close and you have some room left in the side walls I would just go that route.
The plug that was pulled out just allows for more glue surface and a stronger bond.
This is my last FBE piece that did the same thing. Used yellow Titebond II and let it cure for 24 hours. No worse for the wear... Shite happens!













I will add that it was no where near finished when this happened. Re-truing, final shaping both inside and out, and all sanding happened after this glue up.

Reactions: Like 6 | EyeCandy! 2


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## DKMD (Apr 2, 2014)

I've done what Scott suggests and also had luck going the route Colin mentioned. Titebond or epoxy have worked for me with either option.

Reactions: Useful 2


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## barry richardson (Apr 2, 2014)

As said above, you can just glue it back on if you have good contact. Or if you have a disc sander, sand the bottom flat and glue a block to it, I've used both methods with success....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## TimR (Apr 3, 2014)

If you don't think you can get enough bite with regluing to original tenon, you could jam chuck (or vac if available) and clean up just enough on the bottom to mount a glue block. Doing this you have the opportunity to move the piece around making sure the outside surface stays true as possible. One trick I've used when I've had to do something like this, is when cleaning up the bottom of the vessel to create a fresh surface for gluing, leave a 3/4" or 1" tenon, and it can be very short, i.e 1/16" or less, but just enough that you can use it help center up to your new glue block that you'll have a shallow matching mortise in it. The glue block should be chucked, drilled with matching mortise and ready to accept the piece when ready to glue back.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## wyowoodwrker (Apr 3, 2014)

Thanks for thr info guys I really appreciate it going to try gluing it back on ans see how it goes. There's enough wall thickness to re-true. Love this site and the wealth of info you all have is really appreciated.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Apr 3, 2014)

You need reverse on your lathe just like me!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## NYWoodturner (Apr 3, 2014)

Keep us posted!


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## RayBell (Apr 3, 2014)

Scott, that is a beautiful recovery. I have had this happen, but never thought about regluing. Good luck Nick, and let us know the outcome.


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