# Need lathe purchasing advice.



## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

I want to purchase a new lathe. new to me at least. where do yall shop for used lathes or what would be a good lathe around 800-1000 price range. I have a small rikon 12x16 ish. I really want variable speed and hopefully full sized lathe. I don't believe there are any quality brands in my price range as far as moving up in size. any ideas? I'm really don't know where to figure this all out....


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## woodman6415 (Dec 6, 2016)

Try Craigslist... or used woodworking sites ... I've seen some advertised on facebook sale sites

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 6, 2016)

Craigslist is probably going to be your best bet. Full sized though... You'll need to scour it regularly and be ready to jump when one comes up if you want a quality full sized lathe in that price range. I'd recommend if you can save a while to set aside 3-4,000 and wait for a really nice machine like a Powermatic 3520B, A Oneway 1640 or larger, or something similar. They do come up ocassionally. You might be able to find an older Jet or Delta with a Reeves drive in that price range.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

Looks to be a beauty:

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5868205203.html

Another good old one:

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/hvo/5906908729.html

Cheaper:
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5862887796.html

Small:

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/5908265534.html

The whole business:

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/bfs/5905127825.html

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 6, 2016)

deltatango said:


> Looks to be a beauty:
> 
> http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5868205203.html
> 
> ...



That second post could be a heck of a deal, all those machines for only 1300. That Powermatic would be a big old workhorse.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## Tony (Dec 6, 2016)

The 2nd one (package deal) seems pretty good if you can swing it. The "bear" table saw looks in good shape and I think the drum sander is a Grizzly as well. Tony

Reactions: Agree 2


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

The thing about Craigslist is you can't dawdle around. If you want it you got to be aggressive and go get it and bring cash.
That second group is one of the best deals I've seen in a long time.
You could buy that stuff, sell what you don't want or need and you have your lathe for free almost.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 6, 2016)

If I lived there and had the money I would be in my truck with a buddy to help and a trailer in tow. You could sell off what you don't want and be way ahead. Now that Powermatic lathe is a serious cast iron beauty, but the variable speed is a reeves drive, which isn't bad. But it will not have reverse, but the thing will last foreverse and be very stable.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

I emailed him as soon as I saw the post. I had previously seen that post but overlooked the fact it was a package not just a lathe for 1300! I really hope he replies


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> If I lived there and had the money I would be in my truck with a buddy to help and a trailer in tow. You could sell off what you don't want and be way ahead. Now that Powermatic lathe is a serious cast iron beauty, but the variable speed is a reeves drive, which isn't bad. But it will not have reverse, but the thing will last foreverse and be very stable.



What do you mean reeves/ no reverse? some lathes go forward and backwards? lol I know it's a dumb question but Im new and only had my one lathe


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

Reeves = Variable Cone or Sheeve Drive.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

So do I have to change the belts every time I was to change speeds?


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

With a large lathe you don't need reverse. In fact it would be better not to have it.
The difference between the old school Variable pitch drive lathes and the new is that most new ones have VFD (variable frequency drives) which is an electronic controller.
The Reeves type drives are mechanical, and for the most part super reliable.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 6, 2016)

The reeves gives you variable speed without having to change belts on pulleys.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 6, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> So do I have to change the belts every time I was to change speeds?
> 
> View attachment 118063



On your current lathe pictured above, Yes, you do have to move the belt (It's the same belt, just different positions) On a reeves drive, moving a handle changes the pulley ratio so no changing the belt.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Great Post 1


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> So do I have to change the belts every time I was to change speeds?
> 
> View attachment 118063



No. Look at the lathe in the Craigslist post. There's a handle there. You just turn it and speed goes up or down. Very nice.

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

I tell you what. You will probably not get another chance like this package deal.
If you want good advice, go grab that.


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

When these were new - they were state of the art. This is still a great heavy lathe that will serve you well for years.

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

Just to put it in perspective, that lathe alone is worth $1300.00
Bet the guy has tools to go along with it that he'd let go with the whole deal.
They don't get much better than this when it comes to these old cast iron beauties.

Reactions: Like 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

I want it badly now, I trust yall I'm just waiting for a response!


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

Hope you said, "I'll take it" sight unseen.
No joke - it's one of those supper deals that you don't see too often. Especially when you're looking, and especially within reach.
Hope you get it all.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

I did.


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## deltatango (Dec 6, 2016)

Excellent. Sometimes I offer to send a down payment via Paypal to show I'm serious.
Usually they just say, no, that's alright I'll hold it for you until you can get here.
Don't be surprised if he's got some people coming to look, or it's gone.
It was only posted a day ago, but things can happen fast.

All those machines will need clean up and TLC, but it will be well worth it.
The only thing missing is a bandsaw and you'd have a fully working shop.


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## rocky1 (Dec 6, 2016)

Radial Arm Saw isn't a bad saw either. Nephew bought one up in ND, because one of the guys at the fire station was upgrading his jobsite saw. It was tough shape!! Built an 8 ft. table for it; shelf underneath; sturdy enough you can load the shelf and table with lumber, run under the table top with the forklift and pick it all up and move it. I spent more on the table than he spent on the saw! Let him fuss and grumble, then told him to get over it, it was done right.

Tore the saw down, cleaned and oiled all of the bearings, cleaned up the rust and dirt all over. Adjusted and fixed... 

Put it back together and it worked pretty darned good. Still works pretty darned good, 13 years later too! Only thing we've done was squirt a little oil in the bearings on the track occasionally.

Reactions: Like 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

I am meeting him at 3pm tomorrow! I won't be able to pick it up yet but I will go this weekend. he said that's fine as long as I have put a down payment.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 6, 2016)

Can yall take a guess to what the cost of fixing this might be? he said it's been in storage for 15 years.... 
When I go tomorrow what should I be checking for?


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## rocky1 (Dec 7, 2016)

Can of light machine oil, little steel wool, roll of blue shop towels, and couple cans of WD 40. Pretty inexpensive fix more than likely. Unless the pictures are 14 years old, it all appears to be in pretty decent shape. Will probably need cleaning and oiling, otherwise shouldn't be a problem unless it's been exposed to the elements since the pictures.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tony (Dec 7, 2016)

Take a long metal rule if you have one to check for flatness across the surface on the table saw and any other flat surfaces. Tony

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 7, 2016)

You need to be able to work on the machines yourself unless you have a friend who will work on them with/for you. Elbow grease is what is needed most. These old machines are classics. They mostly probably just need cleaning up. The lathe will not start when you plug it it unless the starting limit switch has been rigged on that lathe. Normally, when the handle is in that position when the lathe was shut-off it meant you had to rotate the spindle and push the handle until handle returned to its full left, or minimum speed position (start position).
This was a safety measure so the lathe couldn't be started at high speed. If you're lucky, someone may have disabled the limit switch so it will operate at the speed it was left at when turned off. The lathe should be fine. Look inside to see what shape the belt is in. If it is frayed or super worn, it could be a problem. The belt is the achilles heel of that lathe. Try to run the lathe. With it sitting for so long it may take a bit before the variable speed runs smoothly. I bet it will though. Bring a good strong flaslight with you.

Like Rocky discussed, light oil, some WD 40, etc., and cleaning abrasives and it should mostly all come back to life after good cleaning. Surprisingly, cleaning and lubricating and waxing can make a huge difference.
That is all stuff you can and should do yourself. The cost will be the amount paid for cleaning/lubricating materials. You may need to replace a power cord on some of the machines.

If you can't / won't do the cleaning/lubricating, then walk away from it. In order to have shop tools like these, they must be maintained. As discussed, you could sell the pieces you don't want individually, if you don't want to do the work. You have a great opportunity here. 

If you are serious about it, become resourceful. Line up help for moving the equipment, and be sure you have the means to move it. That's a lot of space that stuff will take up on a trailer. If you don't have one, you may have to rent a truck with a lift. Whatever you do, however you move the equipment, be sure to lash or ratchet strap it all down. If you have a friend who has the equipment for moving all of it, that would be best, unless you have it yourself. Keep in mind that if you have to rent equipment, for moving the tools, that can become expensive.

Do you have a good enclosed space to put the tools when you get them?

Try to think through all these issues yourself. Answer the tough questions.

Reactions: Great Post 2


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

Thank you very much for your responses. I am not only willing but excited to do the maintenence myself. that being said I have been know to "over maintain" equiptment. I was more curious if bearings or cords or belts will definitely need replacing. he had a person come look at then this morning and turned the lathe and dust collector on. both worked well. he has been turning thover two on regularly to keep parts moving correctly. what is the best way to ensure my knowledge is adequate for the job. Purchase an owners manual for each item definitely. Any other good lathe maintenance resources around?


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

Do I want to transport the lathe standing or laying? either way I will ratchet strap it down just want the safest transportation results.


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## Tony (Dec 7, 2016)

I would say laying down, just as you would use it.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

Tony said:


> I would say laying down, just as you would use it.



I'm confused, I would use it standing up.... will the legs come off?


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## Tony (Dec 7, 2016)

I thought you meant standing on end. No, you've got it right. I don't know if the legs come off,but if they do, I would probably do that. Tony


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## Schroedc (Dec 7, 2016)

As far as manuals go, You may not need to pay for them, a lot of them are available online in different places and can be downloaded as a .PDF

For things absolutely needing to be repalced, I'd inspect the cords and polugs, belts, etc, if they are visually fine and work well. no need to replace. Same thing with bearings. I've got a tool with a motor made in 1951 with the original bearings in it and they show no signs of needing replacement yet.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## deltatango (Dec 7, 2016)

Yeah, if the lathe is running smoothly it's probably fine - nothing needed other than cleanup.
As far as transporting, I'd get that lathe up against a wall or flat surface standing, and strap it well.
Everything depends on what type of transport rig - truck or trailer.
Just need to use common sense. Keep the load balanced.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Don Ratcliff (Dec 7, 2016)

Wow! what a great find, congratulations on scoring that shop in a box.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## rocky1 (Dec 7, 2016)

When I picked my lathe up, I removed the head and tailstock, and strapped the stand down. Had a large wooden box set up to set the head, tailstock, and rests, in so it was secure, and the bulk of the weight on the top of the lathe was removed. Made it much easier to move, much more stable on the trailer. If it's an option, you might want to consider it. My lathe wasn't nearly as big, but taking it apart also made it possible for me to unload it, piece by piece without help. Base was a bit heavy, but I backed the trailer in the shop, set one end off then spun it around and set the other off.

Lots of manpower, or find someone with a small forklift.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

Proud owner of a powermatic! thanks for all the help yall!

Reactions: Way Cool 3


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## Tony (Dec 7, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> Proud owner of a powermatic! thanks for all the help yall!
> 
> View attachment 118121



That's awesome man! Where's the rest of the haul??


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## deltatango (Dec 7, 2016)

Congratulations! Craigslist does it again.

Please keep the thread going - let's see how it looks when you get it unloaded.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 7, 2016)

deltatango said:


> When these were new - they were state of the art. This is still a great heavy lathe that will serve you well for years.



Pretty sure your new lathe is a Model 45 from around the early 70's:






(From Vintage Machinery Archives).


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

Tony said:


> That's awesome man! Where's the rest of the haul??



It's all in there it's just hidden behind the metal wall of lathe! the sides of that trailer aren't short...


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 7, 2016)

It is the 45 for sure! The model number and serial number are on the side.


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## rocky1 (Dec 8, 2016)

COOL DEAL! 

Everything running order? Going to be much fixing? Or, mostly cleaning?


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

Mostly cleaning. there are 2 items that use 220 and he didn't j.have it to turn on and show me. the 3 more importent items I did get to see. he also tagged on a Dewalt a 30 piece router bit set, for 50 bucks router runs good like turn on and the thing kicks off hard lol


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## rocky1 (Dec 8, 2016)

Gotta love it when you fall into such sweet deals!


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## Tony (Dec 8, 2016)

Awesome score! Post pics as you unload and set everything up! Tony


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

So not quite sure I understand how the deal went. Did you buy all the tools for the $1300.00 he was asking?

Were you able to get all the tools in one load between your trailer and your truck?

Also. I didn't see a tailstock wrench in any of the photos. Was it there with the lathe?


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

I was able to get all of the equipment he had posted for 1300. It all fit on the trailer and I got it in one drive. (Im a pretty large strong guy and moving a table saw by myself is far from the hardest thing I have ever done.

After we had negotiated that deal, we continued with him showing me some extra hand tools ect. that he was intending on selling at another point/ getting rid of/ giving away or simply was fine with parting with. (His father left him a bunch of tools in his inheritance)

During that time I purchased a Dewalt Router DW625 Plunge 3HP used from him. In great working condition. When I turned it on I could feel the serious power.
A 24 piece Ryobi router bit set for that plunge router.
A orange Chicago 
burnzomatic torch and full can (I have been needing to purchase for months for some chard looking finishes and toying around with oxidizing purple heart, I have done it with a butane lighter but never with a full torch and am really excited to see how it goes. )
A good strong 100 foot rope (I forgot mine and needed it to tie stuff down)
All totaling 120. I needed a router and a torch. Clearly needed the rope. It was a very good purchase in my opinion.
I also got a few other small items he just gave to me. Older T.V. bbq set ect. not all worth mentioning.

There was not a tailstock wrench. I figure I can either but it online or just use a wrench that I have a million of around.

The pictures didn't do the lathe justice. A lot of the "rust" was just long term dust compacted. The Lathe needs a good cleaning. WD40 on moving parts and that's about it. Somehow the belt is in very good condition. Strong no cracks. He was not the woodturned himself. All the other tools he used for his furniture store. Those will need some work.
Dust collector turned on solid and sounded fine. I will just pull apart and clean for doing my due diligence.
Belt sander turned on fine but wouldn't spin correctly. I believe it was an adjustment issue. Strong good metal parts that I am not at all worried can be fixed.
The table saw I was not able to test weather it turned on or not because he didn't have 220. That being said, it looked like it was in very good shape and was clearly taken care of during time of use and after. It needs a new blade and belt. I'm going to rewire it just to be safe since some of the wiring is exposed at the plug. I'm assuming engine works. Either way it is a very large nice Grizzly table saw. I couldn't find serial number since it was dark and late.
Radial arm Saw Looked to have been decently maintained although it had no blade no table and no top. Plywood easy fix. ( most work of all, least needed by me, I have the least knowledge on this tool)
The thickness sander appears to be in really good shape. Possible 0 required maintenance although I will be cleaning it up and once again doing my due diligence.

Reactions: Way Cool 3


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

Thanks for that detailed report Morgan. This can be very helpful for those looking to find used equipment not knowing where to begin. It seems like you are much more capable than your posts indicated.

I hope you will continue to add to the thread. It's always wonderful when this type of opportunity is found and quickly acted upon.

Congratulations on your nearly entire shop acquisition. Good job working it all out.

Looking forward to seeing it all cleaned and set up!

Mark

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

Thank you,
I will continue to update. I'm not new to doing manual labor. I grew up on a farm and commercial crab fishing. I know a thing or two about work. that being said I know what I don't know. two major things are fine woodworking tools value and repair. granted a belt is a belt rust is rust. I just don't want to be overconfident and under knowledgeable winding up ruining myself. I have done that enough on my new love of fine woodworking.with that it's preventable with good resources (yall) and a whole heck of a lot of research

Reactions: Like 1 | +Karma 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

Do yall know any good resources for looking up old power tools. even with model numbers and brand some of these are hard to find


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## Tony (Dec 8, 2016)

www.ereplacementparts.com


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## Schroedc (Dec 8, 2016)

http://vintagemachinery.org/

Reactions: Agree 3


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 8, 2016)

Parts and manuals can be had direct from grizzly for the table saw. The table saw is a well made saw with a stout trunion. Should be a peach once you get her all tuned up.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

Awesome! thank you!


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

This will help you with the lathe:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/1276.pdf

Some Links For You:

http://www.woodworkingteachers.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=411

http://keithflood.com/?page_id=1229

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/archive/index.php/t-167919.html

http://thewayiwood.blogspot.com/2011/02/notes-on-restoration-of-1964-powermatic.html

http://ozarktoolmanuals.com/machinemanual/powermatic-45-wood-lathe-instruction-parts-manual/

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

That was sooo awesome of you to find all of that for me! thank you very much!


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

Hey no problem. Remember it and pay it forward one day. People helped me out when I was starting out.

You might be interested in this thread:

http://woodbarter.com/threads/changing-out-a-big-motor-on-a-big-lathe.29122/

That's one of my lathes. I went and loaded it up in my truck long ago, just like you did.

Reactions: Like 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

That's an awesome thread! 

Here is the bad boy after a basic cleaning and light rust removal.

She run good. I had to adjust the motor hight since the belt was slipping. 

Please comment if you see anything in need of fixing. I have noticed 3 things. 

1. 2 hot wire hanging. I'm assuming grounds but I don't know how to tell or what needs to be done

2. no rubber washer between the motor mount and speed lever on the quick release bolt.

3 slight whining and little tic when running. 

As far as how it turns. feels great to me. powerful tons of torque on low belt decent speed on 2nd fastest belt (better safe then sorry with a new toy that's whining just slightly.) It seems the noise is probably normal. I will upload a YouTube video if yall think it's necessary. everything else seems to work perfectly. I also did as any 25 year old would being up to my nature and threw a 2 foot long 8 in diameter log on it between a couple centers to test its likelyhood to fall apart, and it seems to have no trouble at all with that.

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

How interesting. It has step pulleys. Does it not have a Reeves drive then?
What is the shift knob under the headstock?
Or does it have a reeves drive and step pulleys for ranges?

Needs more cleaning, LOL.


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

That's some funky wiring in there. OLD. The hanging wires are ground wires that got clipped at some point.
Might want to look over all that stuff.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

I'm going to go threw it with a fine tooth comb soon. I only had 2 hours today and i wanted to go through make sure everything was working and turn something lol I turn a stick into a smaller stick and then again even smaller... oops good by piece of decent maple lumber


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 8, 2016)

The nob below the headstock only tightens of loosens the belt.


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

So I guess that lever on the front is just to raise and lower the motor to change the belts.
Guess there is no variable speed, just changing step pulleys.


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## deltatango (Dec 8, 2016)

Still a great lathe, Later, you could convert it to electronic Variable speed if you wanted.
For now, it will be fine.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

Less to go wrong with the step pulleys verses a reeves drive, it's quick to change speeds anyway. I would definitely go through the wiring on it, I don't like the looks of it. if your not competent with electrical then have an electrician look at it, that would be money well spent, maybe even replace the wiring. once you get that sorted out then clean the bed ways with some steel wool and wd40, you could even use some 600 grit wet or dry if the rust is stuborn, then wax the ways to protect them. That's a great lathe! fix her up.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Less to go wrong with the step pulleys verses a reeves drive, it's quick to change speeds anyway. I would definitely go through the wiring on it, I don't like the looks of it. if your not competent with electrical then have an electrician look at it, that would be money well spent, maybe even replace the wiring. once you get that sorted out then clean the bed ways with some steel wool and wd40, you could even use some 600 grit wet or dry if the rust is stuborn, then wax the ways to protect them. That's a great lathe! fix her up.



Thank you. I have electricians in the family . they are across the country. thank God for Skype 

What kind of wax?


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## rocky1 (Dec 9, 2016)

Most any kind of wax will work Morgan, a good auto polish high in Carnauba would probably give you your most durable finish however. Otherwise... Salad bowl finish, oil/wax furniture polish blends. Plain old beeswax works, little tough to apply.

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

A question about the spindle. Most Powermatic had 1-1/2 8 tpi threads. Is this 1" x 8 tpi or 1-1/4 tpi, or 1-1/2 x 8 tpi? You can find out by measuring the diameter, then hold a ruler up behind the threads. Count how many threads there are in an inch.
You will need to know in order to buy accessories - like chucks, faceplates, etc.
Also see what size morse tapers they are.
The Headstock inboard spindle seems to have a knick in it. See if your can lightly file that with the threads to cleans that up. That could lead to a nasty cut if not careful.

The manual says your configuration is 1" x 8 tpi main spindle, and #2 Morse taper in headstock and tailstock.
These were commonly found in high schools as were the Delta lathes of the same vintage.
There are tons of accessories to choose from. Your top speed is about 3,250 RPM.

Since this is a step pulley lathe, always be in the habit of standing to the side out of the path of the spinning wood when starting it. Best technique is to use a snap start, where you flip the switch on then off, making sure everything is at the right speed and balanced. This is not your little lathe. This thing can hurt you if your not careful with it. Always, mucho respect for it.


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## Schroedc (Dec 9, 2016)

Heck, I use Minwax furniture wax on all my tools. just keep a scotchbrite pad in the can, after cleaning, rub down the ways, let dry a bit abd rub out with an old rag. +1 on rewire. the other thing is that will be easy to increase horsepower down the road if you need it. just change out the motor. what HP is it now?

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

I use any kind of bowling alley type paste wax on the ways once they are polished. Put it on liberally, wipe it down with old t-shirt rags then polish it right after it sets up. Keep the ways waxed and everything will run smoothly.


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> Heck, I use Minwax furniture wax on all my tools. just keep a scotchbrite pad in the can, after cleaning, rub down the ways, let dry a bit abd rub out with an old rag. +1 on rewire. the other thing is that will be easy to increase horsepower down the road if you need it. just change out the motor. what HP is it now?









Minwax is good. He's got a 3/4 hp motor in there. Not super, but should be fine for now. Looks to be in good shape.

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

You might consider getting one of these:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/90/3651/TaperMate-Morse-Taper-Cleaner


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> Heck, I use Minwax furniture wax on all my tools. just keep a scotchbrite pad in the can, after cleaning, rub down the ways, let dry a bit abd rub out with an old rag. +1 on rewire. the other thing is that will be easy to increase horsepower down the road if you need it. just change out the motor. what HP is it now?



3/4 which seemed small I guess but I don't really know


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## Schroedc (Dec 9, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> 3/4 which seemed small I guess but I don't really know



I started with that on a Rockwell pretty much the same size with the same size motor. Use it and see if it does all you need. When it came time to replace my motor an that lathe I bought bigger because I could. The slight noise and tic sound your'e hearing could be a couple things, A tiny bit of bearing noise, a flat spot on the belt. As long as it's running fine without any slop or excessive vibration don't worry about it. I've got a Oneway 2436 that got to the point the noise was uncomfortable before it actually needed bearing replacement (Seriously, Called Oneway and they flat out said, If the runout is fine, run it until it gets too loud to stand) Nice thing is on your lathe a guy can do bearings himself and they are a standard off the shelf item. On the Oneway I decided to ship them the bearing caps and have them do the bearings.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

+1 on the minwax, or Johnsons, or whatever.......


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

This gear has about 1/8th inch of play. is that bad?


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

I'm not able to get the spindle out. I'm not sure what I'm missing but something has it pinned in


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 9, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> This gear has about 1/8th inch of play. is that bad?
> 
> View attachment 118282


Sounds like something is loose.


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

So the gear you are talking about - it may be an indexing sprocket?

Let's see on the parts list:





See if you can find the locking button.

You will have to really spray the crap out of everything to get that spindle out as old as it is.
The set screws will be rusted probably or at least mongo tight.
Study the diagram. Track down what is holding the spindle in.

Here are Powermatic's recommendations for getting the spindle out:





Use a hardwood block like maple and have something say 3" x 3" x 6" long. Put the end grain against the spindle and tap it with a heavy persuader.
See if it moves. If it does, keep going harder. If it doesn't want to move, keep checking to see what little bugger set screw is holding it.

Make sure you don't whack it so hard it drives the spindle across the room.

Spray it all down with WD40 first before you go knocking on things.

Edit* - You must remove the spindle from the inboard side. Tap on it from the outboard end. Remove the threaded ring (or collar - maybe not threaded) on the outboard side with set screw first. Make sure the set screws are out of the pulley and the belt is off. Slide the pulley past the key if possible.

Remember, there are two cap screws that hold the inboard bearing in place.

Reactions: Great Post 2


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## deltatango (Dec 9, 2016)

More help - (Find your part numbers here):

PM45.doc - VintageMachinery.org


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

Deltatango... that post was perfect! I really wish I had seen that earlier. I just spent about 3 hours working on the spindle lol I did do it essentially exactly as you posted. it just took me waaay longer to figure it out than it needed to be.
Granted the one thing I forgot causing me to call it quits for today... if you take everything apart clean all the rust off and lube it all up, when you go to put it all back together DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE DANG BELT ON! Holy crap my wife was pissed at all the banging (Shops inside downstairs) got "finished and ready to go" realized belt was hanging off the handle two inches from my face.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 9, 2016)

BTW rust wasn't bad. all definitely needed wd40 but holy crap was it all locked up in place. even after getting all rust off it took one heck of a pounding before everything was back in place. a good solid fit. everything clean up nicely. 
It was the indexer which is well far closer to round than a gear at this point. there is no indexer locking pin at all. I didn't even notice until I was taking it all apart.


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## Schroedc (Dec 9, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> It was the indexer which is well far closer to round than a gear at this point. there is no indexer locking pin at all. I didn't even notice until I was taking it all apart.



Guessing it got engaged a time or two while the lathe was running. That is something you don't want to do

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 11, 2016)

What is the ideal oil for spindle shaft? 3in1 ?


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## rocky1 (Dec 11, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> What is the ideal oil for spindle shaft? 3in1 ?



Light machine oil, 10W motor oil, ATF... You really don't want a lot of oil there Morgan, it'll collect and hold dust and contribute to problems over the long haul. Wipe it down good, then wipe it off.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 11, 2016)

Ran amazing, thank yall soo much for all the help. I never would have been able to get this nice of a lathe, nor been able to tune it up the way I did. First turning on it. A little Ambrosia maple I scored from a local mill

Reactions: Like 4 | Way Cool 2


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## deltatango (Dec 11, 2016)

Hey, that's great - you're on your way. Sure looks like fun. Got yourself a great lathe. Glad it's working out for you.

-Mark

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

I'm wondering as far as face plates vs wormscrew what the difference is I'm strength. I really want to do some larger bowls platters ect. any recommendations?
The one that came with my lathe was too big...


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## Jim Beam (Dec 12, 2016)

Face plate seems a lot safer to me, but I suppose if your work piece is very solid then a worm screw is OK. I almost always use the face plate.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

Jim Beam said:


> Face plate seems a lot safer to me, but I suppose if your work piece is very solid then a worm screw is OK. I almost always use the face plate.



Anyone recommendations on 4" 6" 8" or other. brand ect? I honestly can't find what I'm imagining lol


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

So actually, if you're going to go the faceplate route, I'd recommend 4" faceplates. If you can screw into a waste block, then glue the waste block to a flat on the wood that works great. If the wood is wet, spread glue on the flat and let it dry, then clamp the piece with fresh glue between centers of the lathe.

Eventually you should probably invest in a chuck or two. Here's a good source for those things:
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com

These faceplates are a little pricey but I like the screw hole pattern:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Wood-T...960539?hash=item1e8f86461b:g:Lw0AAOSwPe1T2aNh
You'll end up getting many different sizes if you go the faceplate route.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

deltatango said:


> So actually, if you're going to go the faceplate route, I'd recommend 4" faceplates. If you can screw into a waste block, then glue the waste block to a flat on the wood that works great. If the wood is wet, spread glue on the flat and let it dry, then clamp the piece with fresh glue between centers of the lathe.
> 
> Eventually you should probably invest in a chuck or two. Here's a good source for those things:
> http://www.thewoodturningstore.com
> ...



I have a supernova 2... I'm just not sure what to do as far as larger pieces too big for wormwood screw


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

Any thoughts on something like this?


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

That's fine - works well - how much are they where you found them?


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

I don't like screwing into the wood unless I can't help it. I prefer to use waste blocks because they can be reused often. Couple taps with a chisel and the bowl pops off. Reface the waste block and it's ready to use again.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

deltatango said:


> That's fine - works well - how much are they where you found them?



30 to 40 depending on size. only 4 screws though...


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

Waste blocks with hot glue worries me is all


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

Don't use hot glue. Use CA or white glue - Titebond. You have to plan a little in advance, but once you get used to it, it's no thing.
You can redrill the holes large and you can drill more holes in them.
The idea is to get a system you can work with and get set up with it to do a lot of work.
If you can use the screw on one side of the wood, you can turn dovetail mortise in the other side and use your 4-jaw.
Or you can turn a flat and clamp a waste block on it, then mount your fixture.
Sooooo many possibilities. No one way right or wrong.


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

http://www.aswoodturns.com/2013/02/easy-wood-faceplates/


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 12, 2016)

Just as an alternative method. I like to screw a faceplate into the blank on the side that will be hollowed. I turn the outside like this and cut the dovetail or tennon for the chuck and then just flip it. then hollow the inside and the screw holes go away. I just like the security and strength of the screws with a face plate. Just another way to do it.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 12, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Just as an alternative method. I like to screw a faceplate into the blank on the side that will be hollowed. I turn the outside like this and cut the dovetail or tennon for the chuck and then just flip it. then hollow the inside and the screw holes go away. I just like the security and strength of the screws with a face plate. Just another way to do it.



Since I am newer to turning I feel a faceplate would be the safest and easiest option with least chance for error. maybe not the fastest but I need to ensure stuff like snapping my roughing gouge earlier tonight doesn't happen before I work on speed

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 12, 2016)

I should add that I also use the tailstock and a live center when I flip it for the hollowing, again just a little more security. I also like as big a faceplate as the blank will allow. I have a few sizes.


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## deltatango (Dec 12, 2016)

There are so many ways to turn a bowl. The colonists used treadle and pole lathes to make treenware by turning simply between centers. The entire bowl was made with a spur driver and a tailstock point. A famous turner, Ron Kent, turned bowls entirely between centers. Many Japanese turners work this way to this day.
Whether using a faceplate, a chuck or simply centers, they are all means to an end.

Using cone separation techniques allow you to extract bowls within bowls. Normally woodturners employ several techniques and chucking or holding methods to achieve their goals. It would be best if you familiarized yourself with the various ways of working.

Start with a faceplate and see where that leads. As Greg discusses, use the open side of the bowl first, then end for end it and resume turning. There are a lot of videos on youtube that show many ways of working.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 19, 2016)

First bowl on new lathe. Got the dust collector "up and running". Needs new casters and I only have a shop vac hose but he had clearly set it up for the size hose I have lol

Reactions: Way Cool 3


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## rocky1 (Dec 19, 2016)

Beautiful turn! Very nicely done!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 20, 2016)

Very cool

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 20, 2016)

Keep going. Turn turn turn. Keep practicing.

When you photograph, give your bowls room around them.

A smaller base will give the bowl lift. A wide base causes the bowl to visually sink into the surface it rests on.

A good beginning effort.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 20, 2016)

deltatango said:


> Keep going. Turn turn turn. Keep practicing.
> 
> When you photograph, give your bowls room around them.
> 
> ...



That's great information! I did not know that. The buddy of mine whom asked for a bowl wanted a large bowl for soups and stuff! I figured hey I'll make as large as I can with what I have lol


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## deltatango (Dec 20, 2016)

It's a good bowl you have made. Check out these images of soup bowls on a Google search for same:

https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...YPRAhXMMSYKHTu4CesQ_AUICSgC&biw=1305&bih=1157

There are some that have wide bases. You are not wrong, there is no wrong, just a matter of form and aesthetics.

As you study those bowls, notice how the ones with large bases sink down and the ones with smaller bases rise up.

Turning a footed bottom helps to have a wide base - if done right the bowl can rise and be ultra stable.

Most people adapt to bowls with smaller bases, and the soup in the bowl adds weight to sturdy it.

FWIW/YMMV


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 20, 2016)

deltatango said:


> It's a good bowl you have made. Check out these images of soup bowls on a Google search for same:
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=woo...YPRAhXMMSYKHTu4CesQ_AUICSgC&biw=1305&bih=1157
> 
> ...



Thank you very much. 

What does FWIW/YMMV mean?


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 20, 2016)

I can't wait to turn my next one and see how it turns out.

I think this bowl follows more along the lines of what your explaining right?


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 20, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> Thank you very much.
> 
> What does FWIW/YMMV mean?


First part is "for what it's worth" I have no clue what the second part is,lol.


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 20, 2016)

For what it's worth/ your method may vary...?


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 20, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> For what it's worth/ your method may vary...?


AH HA!.............. "Maybe your actual mileage may vary"

Reactions: Agree 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 20, 2016)

I googled it too and for the first time IN HISTORIC FASHION in a head to head contest with all mighty Google himself Morgan Mahan comes out with the victory!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## deltatango (Dec 20, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> I can't wait to turn my next one and see how it turns out.
> 
> I think this bowl follows more along the lines of what your explaining right?
> 
> View attachment 118975



Ayuh. Better. Keep practicing - turn lots of bowls - concentrate on form. Turn some out of fire wood and cut them in half to check your wall thickness.
The more you practice the better you get at it. However, I understand it is Christmas coming up after all, LOL.

YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary.

Reactions: Like 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 25, 2016)

So I have been having trouble with my tool rest. At its lowest hight it's like 2mm below center. Add the tool and your above center. Any ideas?


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2016)

That is rather strange. Not an easy fix by looking at the pic. Best way to fix the rest you have would be to mill a little off the top of the tool rest edge. You don't really want to mess with the banjo in any way. Another option is to just buy another rest that will go lower, maybe a round "T" bar type.
Is that the only rest that came with the lathe?


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## deltatango (Dec 25, 2016)

You could take the rest to a machinist and have him chuck the shaft (presumably it's 1" in diameter)? Then have him use a cuttoff tool and machine the area where the rest meets the banjo to the size of the shaft. Doing this or Greg's suggestion of machining the top of the rest will weeaken the rest either way, somewhat.
I second the idea of buying another rest. Either that or make your own. Either way, you'll need to know the diameter of the rest shaft.


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## rocky1 (Dec 25, 2016)

Third option available... See the link below. Rather than lower the rest further, he raised center line. 

http://lakecity.craigslist.org/tls/5886038836.html


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 25, 2016)

Yes its my only tool rest. 
So I took a closer look and noticed where the tool rest met the bar that mounts into the banjo had been painted a couple times. Cleaned thathe down to the metal. As I did that I noticed the bar attached to the rest was a very poor cut at the end. Which didn't allow the rest to go all the way down. It was all masked by the 3+ layers of paint covered rust on the banjo. All cleaned up still pretty high. I gained about 1-2mm extra. Huge help but not ideal. How far below the center should I be able to get my rest. My previous lathe (rikon mini 12x16) would go down several inches below center. 

I would love to modify my lathe like that but finances won't allow it. 

And the rest shaft is 1 1/4


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 25, 2016)

1-1/8 post... seems like all the rest posts around are 1in now...


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## rocky1 (Dec 26, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> Yes its my only tool rest.
> So I took a closer look and noticed where the tool rest met the bar that mounts into the banjo had been painted a couple times. Cleaned thathe down to the metal. As I did that I noticed the bar attached to the rest was a very poor cut at the end. Which didn't allow the rest to go all the way down. It was all masked by the 3+ layers of paint covered rust on the banjo. All cleaned up still pretty high. I gained about 1-2mm extra. Huge help but not ideal. How far below the center should I be able to get my rest. My previous lathe (rikon mini 12x16) would go down several inches below center.
> 
> *I would love to modify my lathe like that but finances won't allow it.*
> ...



Motor would be your biggest expense. Cheap VFD drive like the one pictured isn't but a couple hundred bucks these days. Can't imagine the risers and longer bolts being more than a couple hundred bucks worst case scenario. You really don't need 6" of rise on center line, you only need an inch or two, unless you really want to turn 20 inch bowls. That being the case, your current rest would likely work, and if not, you tell the Woodtick guy what you want and he'll build you one for a reasonable price.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

_*"1-1/8 post... seems like all the rest posts around are 1in now..."*_

You should be able to put something interesting and workable together with these components:

Tool Post Stem: http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/pola.html

Modular T-Post System: http://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/tmotoresy.html

If you don't like the round, you cand grind a flat. Many possibilities there.


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

rocky1 said:


> Third option available... See the link below. Rather than lower the rest further, he raised center line.
> 
> http://lakecity.craigslist.org/tls/5886038836.html



I've been watching that lathe Rocky. Looks like he did a nice job jacking it up.
For what all he did, that's a pretty good price for that lathe. Guess he got a new banjo that has a higher tool post arrangement. Expensive.







Looks like he made the risers out of wood, had them cast in aluminum and machined:






He used a replacement DC motor and controller - not VFD. That's how I would have done it too. Much more expensive for motor and controller, but when increasing the scale of turnings, the rpms have to drop and torque at lower rpms becomes important. That is where the DC motor outshines the VFD in a retrofit like this. Most lathes with VFD that need to do low end, have a jack shaft arrangement to change a belt to a lower ratio. That would be a pain to retrofit.






Jacking a lathe like that is a big project. I've done it on several lathes. It gets expensive and time consuming.
I made my riser blocks out of wood and had them cast in aluminum then had them machined for true.

On others I used heavy wall hollow tube, or 3/4" thick steel plate welded into a tube.

So many modifications required, especially the VFD which needs to be paired with the motor, and then there is the switching and remote switch panel to consider.

Even doing it on the cheap and using wood for riser blocks, that's a BIG project. Lots of down time.

But it can be done.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 26, 2016)

How much would something like that cost in total? 500ish? It looks dreamy lol

Reactions: Sincere 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 26, 2016)

deltatango said:


> I've been watching that lathe Rocky. Looks like he did a nice job jacking it up.
> For what all he did, that's a pretty good price for that lathe. Guess he got a new banjo that has a higher tool post arrangement. Expensive.
> 
> 
> ...



That's a Oneway Banjo and tool rest on that lathe. About 250.00 plus shipping just for the Banjo plus whatever you buy for a tool rest.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> How much would something like that cost in total? 500ish? It looks dreamy lol



The guy is asking:

*Powermatic lathe - $1750*


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 26, 2016)

So it's an easy 350 just for banjo and toolrest/post. 

Motor 300

Tailstock and headstock risers ~300? 

Extra misc tools and parts ~200

Damn lol


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 26, 2016)

deltatango said:


> The guy is asking:
> 
> *Powermatic lathe - $1750*



I was meaning in additions to my lathe not like total total lol


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

RedwoodWorkshop said:


> How much would something like that cost in total? 500ish? It looks dreamy lol



To retrofit your lathe just like that one:
DC 1.5- 2 HP motor - $200 -250
DC Motor controller - $200-300

Headstock and tailstock risers - $200 - 300 after machining
Oneway Banjo - 250.00 - tool rest - $50-75.00

Retrofit motor - belts, hardware, etc. - $100.00

Controller/motor pededstal stand wiring - $100.00

You're looking at about $1300 to 1400 to make yours like that, if you did most of the work yourself to make yours equivalent to that one.

Better say $1500, unless you can find parts cheap.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 26, 2016)

And not to be a downer, but there does come a point where you really want to figure out how much time you'll have in (Your time has to be worth something) how much the original lathe was, and also, how much resale will it possibly have. You may use it forever or you may decide to upgrade down the road and you'll not be likely to get out what you have into it. By the time you have a 1500.00 retrofit, the original lathe cost, plus your time, it might be more worthwhile to look into a used Powermatic 3520, Oneway, Etc. once you outgrow your current machine instead of modifying it. Or keep the original as-is for some turning and add a second lathe to the shop!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

Now I could probably do that for 1/2 that amount because I know what to look for and where the deals are, plus I have a machine shop and 45 years experience.
Also have the motor and controller.
Problem would be finding someone to cast the patterns in aluminum.
So If I refitted your lathe that way, I'd charge $2K to do the whole job.

But I wouldn't take the job, LOL

Reactions: Informative 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

I dunno Coin, there's something to be said for experience and learning and doing a job like that. He might enjoy that.
Also, it would be a hell of a lathe. Painted up and purtied, it could sell.
There's nothing out there that could touch the performance in that price range.


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## Schroedc (Dec 26, 2016)

deltatango said:


> I dunno Coin, there's something to be said for experience and learning and doing a job like that. He might enjoy that.
> Also, it would be a hell of a lathe. Painted up and purtied, it could sell.
> There's nothing out there that could touch the performance in that price range.



Oh yes, the experience would be worth it. I might even do it myself over time, in stages, riser first, motor later, etc. Would all depend on what I happened to trip over for parts deals as I went. Plus IIRC, he did get a heck of a deal on his lathe to start with so he isn't into it too deep to start with.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

This is what I'm saying.


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-KB-ELEC...ce838fa&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=231876208336

Reactions: Like 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

You could see what the guy would take to sell his jacked up lathe:

http://lakecity.craigslist.org/tls/5886038836.html

Hire Rocky to drive it out to you, then sell your lathe or give it to Rocky for making the trip.

If you want something that size that is...
The lathe is right in his town.


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

Lathes are like motorcycles. No matter how big it is, we always want a bigger one. At one time I had 12 lathes. Now I'm down to 7.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 26, 2016)

JMO. 
If I remember correctly this is his first lathe or first larger lathe? So I would think that at some point he will be upgrading to something else, we all do that as we learn and grow and as funds allow. So I say let me make you a rest or 2 so you can continue to use that smoking deal of a lathe you got! Don't over analyze it and try to overbuild what you have. Just get me the size of the shaft on the rest you have now and I can make you a couple of rest, if you like them and the way they work then we can take it from there and add curved rest etc. I could make the post out of carbon steel so you could cut it down if needed. A measurement from the bottom of the post to the top of the rest would be helpful to, as well as how wide it is.
Greg

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Schroedc (Dec 26, 2016)

@RedwoodWorkshop - I'd definitely take @woodtickgreg up on that. A new rest with a round bar top or even a bar top with a flat milled on it would get you down quite a bit lower. I'd wonder if that rest you have was intended for a different lathe as high as it is or if it was just to use with a scraper. I've gotten some of the tools Greg makes and his quality is top notch!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 3


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

Once you have the new rests from Greg, send me the one you are using now and I'll machine it on my Birmingham 16x62 metal lathe to fit properly. Then you'll have 3 rests to work with.

I agree that it's best not to try to tweak that lathe. As you can see, it would cost as much or more that the one that's been already jacked up that's for sale.

Greg's point that after you've done what you set out to do with your newly purchased lathe, later, you can grow out of it and into something else way more expensive.

Spending the time jacking that lathe might be fun, might be educational, but even after everything was done to it, it wouldn't be as nice as a serious, or Oneway, or Robust.







Judging by the photo I think I could gain you about 3/8's at the point where the rest is in the banjo, and another 1/4" or more from off the top of the rest, so a good 1/2", overall, which should help.

But you may find that the rests Greg makes are all you need.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 26, 2016)

I keep looking at this pic, I don't think I would remove anything from the rest where it sits on the banjo, I think it would substantially weaken it. But taking it off the top and recutting that edge would probably be enough. Even though it's the right color I wonder if that is the correct banjo for this lathe? It just seems odd that there is no adequate low adjustment. Or is the rest what might be incorrect? At any rate I got a fix! New rest!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> I keep looking at this pic, I don't think I would remove anything from the rest where it sits on the banjo, I think it would substantially weaken it. But taking it off the top and recutting that edge would probably be enough. Even though it's the right color I wonder if that is the correct banjo for this lathe? It just seems odd that there is no adequate low adjustment. Or is the rest what might be incorrect? At any rate I got a fix! New rest!



Nah, have to disagree Greg. Pretty sure I could chuck that and remove 1/4" to 3/8" depending upon the actual measurement. Milling the top would not be a problem either. Another way to gain a smidge of adjustment would be to mill a flat on the banjo. There's probably a tad that could come off there too.

Cast iron isn't 4140 by any means, but still in all it's probably pretty tough enough to take the machining.

It would make that thing useable at least. No doubt free tool rests from you would be the best of all solutions.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 26, 2016)

deltatango said:


> Nah, have to disagree Greg. Pretty sure I could chuck that and remove 1/4" to 3/8" depending upon the actual measurement. Milling the top would not be a problem either. Another way to gain a smidge of adjustment would be to mill a flat on the banjo. There's probably a tad that could come off there too.
> 
> Cast iron isn't 4140 by any means, but still in all it's probably pretty tough enough to take the machining.
> 
> It would make that thing useable at least. No doubt free tool rests from you would be the best of all solutions.


Mark, my concern is that if you machine off the cast iron from around the post there won't be anything left to support it. Or are you saying the whole thing is cast iron including the post?


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Mark, my concern is that if you machine off the cast iron from around the post there won't be anything left to support it. Or are you saying the whole thing is cast iron including the post?



Yes that's a one piece casting, that's been machined. Look at the dimple for the tailstock to hold it between centers. In my experience it could take what I'm saying and not blink an eye.


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## woodtickgreg (Dec 26, 2016)

deltatango said:


> Yes that's a one piece casting, that's been machined. Look at the dimple for the tailstock to hold it between centers. In my experience it could take what I'm saying and not blink an eye.


Ahh, if it's a one piece casting then I agree


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## deltatango (Dec 26, 2016)

Yeah, that right angle nubbin is used to hold the stem centered and between centers.
It's a pain because when turning properly with a guoge it always gets in the way.
Thing to do would be too do the machining mods then grind that sucker off of there.
The one piece cast iron tool post and rest was meant to cut down on vibration.


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## rocky1 (Dec 26, 2016)

I don't know, but y'all done made me grumpy back there on the last page with that DC drive link, because I could have one seriously bad ass Grizzly 1067Z for about $300! Has a 6 speed reeves type drive, on 1/2 hp AC motor. For $300 I can do 3/4 hp motor and control, and if I could pair that to the reeves drive, oh my!!


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## Schroedc (Dec 26, 2016)

rocky1 said:


> I don't know, but y'all done made me grumpy back there on the last page with that DC drive link, because I could have one seriously bad ass Grizzly 1067Z for about $300! Has a 6 speed reeves type drive, on 1/2 hp AC motor. For $300 I can do 3/4 hp motor and control, and if I could pair that to the reeves drive, oh my!!



We'll be waiting for the build thread then.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


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## RedwoodWorkshop (Dec 26, 2016)

Can you say homemade flexible LED overhead light! Cost my the price of the lightbuld...

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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