# Tru-oil finish



## Molokai (Jan 30, 2013)

Hi
Whats your opinion of tru-oil?
do you use it, how do you finish with it?
i heard that you can heat the oil and apply it, even bake it??
has anyone heard of such process?


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## Mike1950 (Jan 30, 2013)

Molokai said:


> Hi
> Whats your opinion of tru-oil?
> do you use it, how do you finish with it?
> i heard that you can heat the oil and apply it, even bake it??
> has anyone heard of such process?



I used it on a gunstock and a knife. It is a good finish for the use it was intended for. I have tried neither.


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## Dane Fuller (Jan 30, 2013)

I've used it on gun stocks & for restoring old fiberglass fishing rods (fly & baitcasters). I love it. Never have baked it but warmed it a time or two. Viscosity will go down when you do that. Hand rubbed while wearing latex gloves seems to work the best for me. I knock it back with 0000 steel wool between coats allowing at least 24 hours between coats.


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## Mike Jones (Jan 30, 2013)

From Russ Fairfield's "Finishing Secrets": _ There are several modified and partially polymerized forms of Linseed Oil available as a finish. These are sold as Tru-Oil (available as a gunstock finish for many years), Tried and True, Velvit Oil, and probably others as well. Other than drying faster and being slightly more colorfast than Boiled Linseed Oil, I have found no benefits to their being used over any other linseed oil products. A product such as the Minwax Antique Oil Finish will give the same results at a far lower cost._


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## Molokai (Jan 31, 2013)

Thanks, will try tru oil on my latest knife so i will report back how it turned out...
If anybody else knows something else and has some questions about tru oil, just write...


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## Jason (Mar 13, 2013)

I use tru-oil quite a bit for my turkey calls and deer grunts. It will build up as you apply multiple layers. Use steel wool between layers and and you can get it to look like glass. Its not water proof but does well for outdoor things. It also holds up well against bug spray.

Take a couple hours between coats to cure so you can get a couple coats a day without having the oil smell. 

Just rub it in with a bit a pressure to build some heat while applying it and you should be pretty good.

Jason


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## Molokai (Mar 22, 2013)

Thanks for info,
i use it on my latest knife and i am very satisfied with the results. I noticed that you have to put it in thin layers if you want the overall finish to be good,
and not use cotton when applying it.

Reactions: Like 1


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## robert flynt (Mar 22, 2013)

Molokai said:


> Thanks, will try tru oil on my latest knife so i will report back how it turned out...
> If anybody else knows something else and has some questions about tru oil, just write...



Molokai, I use tru oil and it works very well on woods that arn't oily but doesn't dry very well on oily woods like rosewood, desert iron wood, etc. I use super glue to coat these woods. just apply it then spread it guickly with a paper towel saturated with acetone then sand lightly or steel wool it and buff. Also store the tru oil upside down so that the surface does not film over.
Robert


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## Jason (Mar 22, 2013)

I use an old white cotton t-shirt torn into strips to apply the tru=oil. be sure to let them dry after use because heat can generate and cause a fire.

And yes, it doesn't take much, just put some on the rag and rub it all over and work it in pretty good.

Jason


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## Molokai (Sep 28, 2013)

A friend gave me a knife to finish a handle with tru-oil. Its not oily African wood but olive, i never had problems with it. But this time.....
the tru-oil just wont harden. I only put couple of layers and the wood is still sticky. 
After searching the web i found some solutions but want to ask if someone had problems like me.
The tru-oil is not old, i opened the bottle 6 months ago and keep the lid tightly closed.


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## HomeBody (Sep 28, 2013)

Turn the bottle over after use or add glass marbles to keep the level at the top. Apply with your finger. After you have enough coats to fill the pores, sand with 400 wet or dry paper dipped in mineral spirits. Use Truoil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits for the last coats. Will take 2 or 3 coats of cut Truoil. Don't sand or wool between cut coats. Finish will be high gloss, thin, and flat. I always dry every coat 24 hours in a heat box. No exceptions. Here's a Truoil finished stock. Ten coats of straight oil and then 2 or 3 coats of cut 50/50 oil.
Gary
[attachment=31751]

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## Molokai (Sep 28, 2013)

Thanks. Great advice to reduce oxygen in bottle with glass marbles.
Can i use 96% alcohol to mix with tru-oil? I am not familiar with the term "mineral spirits", only alcohol 

What is heat box and what is the temperature in there ?


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## Fret440 (Sep 28, 2013)

I've used the MinwaxWipe on Poly, which is essentially the same thing. Some things I like and some I don't. I like that I can apply it with a paper towel. I don't like that I then have to toss and light the paper towel in a chiminea. I store it upside down to help it last a little longer, but even then, I end up discarding the last 1/4-1/3 of the container as it starts to get a little thicker. (Just enough to make it more difficult to apply.). I like that it doesn't add a lot of color to the finished product, but this is a blessing and a curse. For naturally light (and possibly boring) woods, it might not have enough color to make it look warm. I don't like that it is hard to get to "stick" to naturally oily woods like cocobolo. With woods like coco, I end up starting with a spit coat of shellac or just shellacking the whole thing.

Take my opinion for what it's worth since I am only doing flat work and not turnings. :dunno:

Jacob


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## NYWoodturner (Sep 28, 2013)

Tom; The best and most common recommendation I can find doing a Google search and reading several call making, pen turning and woodworking forums is to wipe it down thoroughly with acetone prior to applying any oil based finish. Review / results show about 50/50 fair to negative results. It seems the smaller the piece of wood the better the result. I would venture a guess its because of the thinness of the wood and saturation level of the acetone. Bigger pieces seem to get less results. 
I would use caution with dipping or soaking because acetone will break down the epoxy between the handle and the scale. 

If I were in your shoes, I would sand off the old finish, Soak paper towels in acetone, wrap the soaked towels around the handle completely making sure every surface that will get finish is making contact with the acetone, and place it in a plastic baggie - ziplock bag is what we call them here, and let it sit for an hour or so. That wont soak through to the epoxy. Then I would take it out and wipe it down thoroughly. I would put a layer of sanding sealer on next, then when that dries I would do the tru oil. 
That is only a guess and a theory, but it makes sense in my mind. You could always try it on an olive wood scrap before you try it on your friends knife


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## wombat (Sep 28, 2013)

Fret440 said:


> I've used the MinwaxWipe on Poly, which is essentially the same thing. Some things I like and some I don't. I like that I can apply it with a paper towel. I don't like that I then have to toss and light the paper towel in a chiminea. I store it upside down to help it last a little longer, but even then, I end up discarding the last 1/4-1/3 of the container as it starts to get a little thicker. (Just enough to make it more difficult to apply.). I like that it doesn't add a lot of color to the finished product, but this is a blessing and a curse. For naturally light (and possibly boring) woods, it might not have enough color to make it look warm. I don't like that it is hard to get to "stick" to naturally oily woods like cocobolo. With woods like coco, I end up starting with a spit coat of shellac or just shellacking the whole thing.
> 
> Take my opinion for what it's worth since I am only doing flat work and not turnings. :dunno:
> 
> Jacob



It's only in the past couple of months that I've been using the minwax wipeon and up until now I've been very happy with it. But the last two applications just didn't seem right (thicker and didn't seem to be drying) . It sounds like I'm having the same problem you have. Now my question is... why can't we just add more mineral turps????


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## HomeBody (Sep 29, 2013)

Molokai said:


> Thanks. Great advice to reduce oxygen in bottle with glass marbles.
> Can i use 96% alcohol to mix with tru-oil? I am not familiar with the term "mineral spirits", only alcohol
> 
> What is heat box and what is the temperature in there ?



Another name for mineral spirits is paint thinner. Try the 96% alcohol mixed 50/50 with a small amount of Truoil and see if it blends okay. Try on a piece of wood. I think it will work.

I made a "heat box" to speed up drying. It is just a box made from wood scraps and cardboard. I made a frame of wood, then covered it with normal corrugated cardboard attached with staples. Box is 12" X 12" X 48" tall to hold a rifle gunstock. A couple of small shelves in the upper part for small items. I added 2 light bulbs, 40 watt, and the temperature is constant 95°F. I coat the stock with Truoil then in the box for 24 hrs. I've found 24 hrs in the box allows the Truoil to completely dry before I add the next coat. Gary


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## Molokai (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks for the info. I already sanded the handle and realized that tru oil dont absorbs much in the wood because of quick drying process. Thats one thing i dont like about tru-oil.


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## robert flynt (Sep 30, 2013)

Might try mixing some Tru Oil with distilled linseed oil to slow the drying down. Don't use boiled lindeed oil. You can also use an ice chest ( beer cooler) with a small light bulb in it to do your drying.


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## rdnkmedic (Oct 1, 2013)

An old refrigerator or freezer can also be converted to a drying box. Nice wire shelves for hanging pieces while drying. Wire in a light bulb. My 40 watt bulb runs temp around 90 degrees. A 75 watter will get it up well over 110.


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## Blueglass (Oct 8, 2013)

I use Tru oil a lot.It will eventually dry on oily woods. I used some on a Cocobolo CD rack I made for my truck. The first coat took 3 months to fully dry. Next coat 1 month, next 1 week... 

I really like it but figured some of the other Linseed finishes would be as good.


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## Molokai (Oct 9, 2013)

Blueglass said:


> I use Tru oil a lot.It will eventually dry on oily woods. I used some on a Cocobolo CD rack I made for my truck. The first coat took 3 months to fully dry. Next coat 1 month, next 1 week...
> 
> I really like it but figured some of the other Linseed finishes would be as good.



thats a long time to wait :rofl2:
what other finishes are good on oily woods, like cocobolo?
i have some tung oil from liberon, just received the bottle, i didnt even open it.


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## HomeBody (Oct 12, 2013)

I did some cocobolo pistol grips with truoil and it was a disaster. Looked good at first, but the oil in the wood came up and turned the truoil rancid. Someone told me the best way to finish those oily tropical woods is to buff them with something like the Beall Buffing System. You put 2 coats of sealer and buff away. Gary


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## ChrisK (Nov 11, 2013)

Tomislav,
Some years ago, I shifted all my finishing methods to oil finishing. Among all the solutions commercially available here in Europe I tried and further adopted Rustin's Danish Oil (i.e. here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-danish-oil ).
I picked this product for the following reasons:
* the main ingredient is tung oil which, unlike linseed oil, has the tendancy to less darken the wood,
* other ingredients include some resins (like Dammar) which speed the process, etc. while no film is produced on the surface, like we see with different varnishes
* generates a deep semi-gloss finish

Oil finish is one of my preferred methods on bigger projects (furniture, bowls...). (I finish my pens and bottle stoppers with other methods though). If I made knifes undoubtedly I would use an oil finish. Lately I'm trying pure Walnut oil which seemingly, unlike other oil finishes, doesn't yellow with the passing of time.

Finally, while I generally finish my projects with 3-6 coats (especially with the Danish Oil above), one has to know that a pure traditionnal oil finish needs one year (after the first month, the coats are spaced out) to be fully completed. The final project should be totally saturated and no oil or any liquid will ever be absorbed by the wood.

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## ChrisK (Nov 12, 2013)

Hey Tomislav,
I've seen you already use Tung oil. Well, as we say here, I just pushed an open door... :oops:


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## Molokai (Nov 12, 2013)

Can you go little more in details. How do you saturate the wood completely?
I use tung oil but its not pure. I just bought 100 % pure tung oil from Liberon and micro crystalline wax.


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## ChrisK (Nov 12, 2013)

If I remember well what I've read some years ago (and practice only once) the principle is one coat every day the first week; one coat every other day the 2d week; one coat every 3 days for the 3d and 4th week; one coat every week from the 2d to 4th month; one coat every 15 days for a couple of months, and finally one coat every month to complete.
But every oil is different. The same for different wood species which may react differently. I'll open a thread on a French forum about walnut oil where a colleague, specializing in finishing techniques, agreed to provide some assistance. As far as I understood he promotes the traditional way of finishing (that is the loooong way...) as far as oil finish is concerned. Of course I will transfer every meaningful info here.

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## Molokai (Dec 27, 2013)

So, can i save that tru-oil from throwing it away. Can i add some alcohol or something else to make it work again?
current condition is not drying at all...


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## Mike Jones (Dec 27, 2013)

Tom, nowhere in my literature can I find reference to using alcohol to thin an oil-based finish. In the UK, I see that they call *mineral SPIRITS "white spirits"*. Any of these solvents will work: turpentine, paint thinner (aka mineral spirits) kerosene, and naphtha. The "hot" solvents such as; lacquer thinner, acetone, and toluene will cut or lift an oil finish, even after it has dried or cured. NYwoodturner's suggestion for removing the problem Tru-Oil using acetone is a good idea. Small quantities of acetone can be found in cosmetics departments...sold as "fingernail polish remover". 

The oily wood species, need to have the surface oils cleaned before applying an oil or oil/varnish finish as the oils that are in the wood are non-drying oils and will retard the curing of the finish. Given that these woods are already saturated with their own oil, a buffing wheel charged with tripoli compound will produce a nice shine. Cocobolo will bleed red oil, however, and will discolor the hands if not over-coated. 

Hope this helps, my friend

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## ChrisK (Dec 27, 2013)

Tomislav,
not sure your oil has a problem. Some woods don't absorb oil that easy. I had the same problem with some pendants I recently finished with walnut oil. While masur birch and elm absorbed very fast, the same was not true for gaboon ebony, briar burl and (Spanish) olive wood. Also I found out that walnut oil is less siccative than my Danish oil I use often on briar burl and olive wood bottle stoppers before polishing them on the Beall buffing wheels.
Also, normally you have to wipe down the coat of oil after about half an hour before leaving the piece aside for drying.

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## Mike Jones (Dec 27, 2013)

*This is a list of oily woods that can cause 
glue or finish problems.


Wood*
BubingaHigh density, closed pores, and natural oils can cause problems with glue penetration.
BulletwoodHigh density and moderately oily.
CocoboloVery high oil content and high density.
CumaruHigh oil content and high density.
East Indian RosewoodHigh oil content and medium/high density.
EboniesSome oil present, along with very high densities.
EkkiHigh density and moderately oily.
Goncalo AlvesHigh density and natural oils prevent water absorption.
GreenheartHigh density and natural oils.
Honduran RosewoodHigh oil content and high density.
IpeReportedly very difficult to glue in exterior applications, especially for the long term.
KataloxVery high density, along with natural oils.
KingwoodVery high oil content and high density.
Lignum VitaeExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.
Osage OrangeOils present can give gluing problems.
PurpleheartHigh oil content and high density.
RosewoodsTypically very oily and very dense.
Santos MahoganyHigh density and moderately oily.
TeakOils/resins can present challenges in outdoor applications.
VerawoodExtremely high oil content and density can pose gluing challenges.

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## NYWoodturner (Dec 27, 2013)

Mike - Excellent list. That took some time and effort and for that we thank you. I would also add that all of these woods have varying degrees of success in stabilization (of the ones that I have tried... many just don't need it)

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## robert flynt (Dec 27, 2013)

You have to be careful buffing these woods without a finish on them because the buffing compound will get in the grain of these woods and show. The only way to get rid of it is to resand. As beautiful as they are their just hard deal with. You can add desert iron wood to that list too.

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## SENC (Dec 27, 2013)

I use tung oil successfully on cocobolo... same method as I posted in your stabilization thread, but I do wipe down with acetone before the first dip/coat. Starting with the highly diluted and working through to 100% tung has done the trick for me and I haven't had drying problems. Here are a couple calls finished that way.

http://i1285.Rule #2/albums/a595/HCHpics/Duck%20Calls/IMG_20130707_215649_zps3832cf32.jpg

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## Nobby40 (Dec 28, 2013)

I've been using Waterlox original forever after using Watco Danish oil for many yrs. Waterlox is Tung oil based with polymers etc it finishes real well on the Mesquite Burl I use. It takes 3 coats, rubbing each out with #0000 steel wool, you can run as many as you need. I've always found crows and people like shiny things so I do market my pieces that way. I like the option of being able to do low gloss for the other folks also. It's a pricy product, but the patina after 20 yrs on some pieces is stunning.

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## Mike Jones (Dec 28, 2013)

Nobby40 said:


> I've been using Waterlox original forever after using Watco Danish oil for many yrs. Waterlox is Tung oil based with polymers etc it finishes real well on the Mesquite Burl I use. It takes 3 coats, rubbing each out with #0000 steel wool, you can run as many as you need. I've always found crows and people like shiny things so I do market my pieces that way. I like the option of being able to do low gloss for the other folks also. It's a pricy product, but the patina after 20 yrs on some pieces is stunning.



Alex, I am a fan of Waterlox also. Typically, I'll use it on top of a lacquer sanding sealer, but it is good protection for just about anything that i make. What do you use it on primarily?


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## Molokai (Dec 28, 2013)

Tried today that tru-oil on a piece of oak dried for 100 years and after 12 hours of drying is still sticking to fingers. Wood absorbed all the tru oil and is still sticky. Next time i use glass marbles in tru-oil bottle! Thanks Gary.
I will order white spirit to try to fix it but i believe its a long shot.


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## Mike Jones (Dec 28, 2013)

Thinning with the white spirits will help to speed up drying. I'd guess 24 hours drying time would be the point where I would suspect a problem with the material.


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## Mike Jones (Dec 28, 2013)

Tom, How's your English? This video shows the use of the buffing wheels and compounds. Hope that this helps!

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## Nobby40 (Dec 29, 2013)

Mike Jones said:


> Alex, I am a fan of Waterlox also. Typically, I'll use it on top of a lacquer sanding sealer, but it is good protection for just about anything that i make. What do you use it on primarily?


Mike, I'm turning large burls with a lot of inclusions, I use a simple coat of boiled linseed oil to penetrate all the bark inclusions and voids, I find this method stabilizes the bark etc, it also drowns the critters that prevail in those areas. I'll let the pieces sit until I have orders to fill for the gallerys, then do the Waterlox treatment. It's a great product, I've seen some patrons lamps after 25 yrs that look amazing. A lot of people don't take care of their wood, hate dusting or applying true lemon/orange oil, they are "liquid gold" types and Waterlox manages to hold up to the abuse. Regards, Alex

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## HomeBody (Dec 30, 2013)

HomeBody said:


> I always dry every coat 24 hours in a heat box. No exceptions.
> Gary



While I dry every coat of truoil in a heat box for 24 hrs., everyone else is complaining about truoil drying too fast. Let me explain.

All the gunstocks I finish with truoil are walnut, which is open grained. While the coat of truoil you put on dries quickly on the surface, the oil that goes into the pores does not. If you finish it too quickly what happens is the pores remain full of uncured oil. Over time, sometimes months, the oil in the pores finally dries and shrinks, pulling in the finish on the surface and all your pores show back up. Been there, done that. Drying every coat in a heat box for 24 hours prevents this. My original post should have specified open grain walnut and other similar wood. Gary

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## HomeBody (Dec 30, 2013)

Mike Jones said:


> Tom, How's your English? This video shows the use of the buffing wheels and compounds. Hope that this helps!



I'm still trying to find a motor that turns the right direction so I can use my Beall. I want to use the quick change gadget so I need a counter clockwise turning 1750 rem motor. Bought a HF buffer but it turned out to be a 3450 rpm. GRRRRR!!! Gary


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## DKMD (Dec 30, 2013)

HomeBody said:


> I'm still trying to find a motor that turns the right direction so I can use my Beall....



Can you just turn it around backward?


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## ripjack13 (Dec 30, 2013)

Wouldn't that spew everything upwards into ones face?


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## Molokai (Dec 30, 2013)

ripjack13 said:


> Wouldn't that spew everything upwards into ones face?


Polishing knives, metal or handle is the most dangerous task, and something, like knife hitting you in the face can be very lethal, "very".


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## Molokai (Dec 30, 2013)

Mike Jones said:


> Tom, How's your English? This video shows the use of the buffing wheels and compounds. Hope that this helps!


Thanks Mike it was helpful !
Watched two guys talking something in English and i didnt understand a word  

I have one question, since i bought Renaissance Wax, is it possible to buff it with only last buffer, the softest.
just apply the wax to wood and when its dry, just buffer it? I am not into carnauba wax because i think its not good for outdoor knives, wet, water etc...


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## SENC (Dec 30, 2013)

I don't see why not, Tom.
That said, I'm not sure I understand your aversion to carnauba wax. I use it on duck calls because I understand it to have all the qualities I want in orotectimg something that will be wet in the outdoors. It is a very commonly preferred auto wax, too. What do you know about carnauba that I don't? Perhaps concerns about withstanding heat in a dishwasher?


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## DKMD (Dec 30, 2013)

I just buff the ren wax by hand, but it can be done on a wheel.

Henry, the common knock against carnuba wax(and others) is water spotting. Ren wax is supposed to be better, but I've heard rumors of it still happening. Next time I'm going to burn some old turnings, I'll spray them with a hose first... As a man of science, a little study might be in order.

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## ChrisK (Dec 30, 2013)

Maybe Tomislav and Dave are right. Here are some pens after a last year's outdoor Christmas craft show. The 3d day, a drizzle occurred and while we were protected under the roof of a chalet we had these results (see pics) produced by the wind. I rebuffed these pens by applying some Ren wax after lightly sanding with a (black) Micro mesh pad .


 

 



Now I don't know if a Ren Wax finish would have avoided this.

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## SENC (Dec 30, 2013)

Hmmm, interesting... will have to do some testing myself. I would have thought buffing with a lintfree cloth or, at most, a quick buff on the wheel would have resolved. Maybe a subject for one of the kids' science projects.


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## ChrisK (Dec 30, 2013)

Haven't tried this way Henry. I just buffed by hand and didn't see any result. Hence the Ren Wax buffing mainly for one can buff wood and metallic parts together.


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## ChrisK (Dec 30, 2013)

Anyway not sure the effect above is specific to Carnauba wax.


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## robert flynt (Dec 30, 2013)

HomeBody said:


> I'm still trying to find a motor that turns the right direction so I can use my Beall. I want to use the quick change gadget so I need a counter clockwise turning 1750 rem motor. Bought a HF buffer but it turned out to be a 3450 rpm. GRRRRR!!! Gary


 Most of the 115V single phase are reversable. They are the ones with the start capacitors on them. Three phase motors are reversable but you will need an invertable to create the 3 rd leg. Try www.surpluscenter.com they might have one you can use.


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## SENC (Dec 30, 2013)

Thanks, all, I learned something today. Think I'll get some Renaissance Wax and do some comparison testing. I know it is petroleum-based, but suspect the solvents flash off and just leave a harmless wax... anyone know different or have an opinion that it shouldn't be used on something one puts in their mouth?


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## DKMD (Dec 30, 2013)

SENC said:


> Thanks, all, I learned something today. Think I'll get some Renaissance Wax and do some comparison testing. I know it is petroleum-based, but suspect the solvents flash off and just leave a harmless wax... anyone know different or have an opinion that it shouldn't be used on something one puts in their mouth?


You thinking about waxing your foot?

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## Mike1950 (Dec 30, 2013)

DKMD said:


> I just buff the ren wax by hand, but it can be done on a wheel.
> 
> Henry, the common knock against carnuba wax(and others) is water spotting. Ren wax is supposed to be better, but I've heard rumors of it still happening. Next time I'm going to burn some old turnings, I'll spray them with a hose first... As a man of science, a little study might be in order.




A man of science- ya turn a huge chunk of beautiful wood in to one helluva pile of chips and some crazy abstract thing ya call a bowl or somethin and then ya BURN it. 
Sounds like some kinda crazy science-  What the hell is the world coming to- next thing is you are going to tell me the world is round!!!!

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## SENC (Dec 30, 2013)

Sic'em Mike!

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## DKMD (Dec 30, 2013)

Mike1950 said:


> A man of science- ya turn a huge chunk of beautiful wood in to one helluva pile of chips and some crazy abstract thing ya call a bowl...



I'm assuming you eat cereal and salad out of boxes?

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## Mike1950 (Dec 30, 2013)

DKMD said:


> I'm assuming you eat cereal and salad out of boxes?



Well hell no I don't eat cereal out of my boxes- they are for jewelry  but I don't burn my bowls like you science types either.......... I wash em.............

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## SENC (Dec 30, 2013)



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## Mike Jones (Dec 31, 2013)

Did Molokai's thread get hijacked? It's been so long, I can't remember!

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## ChrisK (Dec 31, 2013)

A huge hijacking... sorry for being part of it Tom.

Maybe the mods could move a portion of this thread?


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## Mike1950 (Dec 31, 2013)

Sorry Tom- I kinda helped with the hijack - proceed back to the tru oil.


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## Molokai (Dec 31, 2013)

No problem guys. I enjoy the humor here.
I have one question. Yes, again.
Can you put something else before tru-oil. Like three layers of tung oil. Or one. Or else. Or

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## Mike1950 (Dec 31, 2013)

I have not done it but if the tung oil was cured I see no reason it would not work. One thing about finishing as this thread proves- if you ask a question about it you will get multiple opinions. I do not feel it is as much about right or wrong but what works good for you and experience.

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## Mike Jones (Dec 31, 2013)

Not sure what you would be trying to achieve with that, but you would certainly not gain any time-to-completion as tung oil is very slow drying.


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## Molokai (Jan 2, 2014)

One for the tung experts ?
What is the ideal temperature for curing-drying tung oil. I am just finishing latest knife and just wondering....


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## SENC (Jan 2, 2014)

See the following from the realmilkpaint.com website, where I buy my tung oil (and solvent). Their website is full of good information.

The Real Milk Paint Co. Brand
PURE TUNG OIL ADVANTAGES: 

Zero VOC's
All Natural means "Green"
Freshness Guaranteed (fresh pumped daily)!
Best Available, Grade 1 yellow
Naturally polymerizing finish
Cures by oxidation not evaporation
Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
Form a flexible water proof finish
Resists abrasion and acids
Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
Does not mold like linseed oil
Long shelf life (will last for years, properly sealed)
Does not darken with time like linseed oil
Concentrated (thin one to one, doubles the coverage)
Combined with "Citrus Solvent" makes an all-natural finish
FDA approved for food contact
PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS: A Pure Tung Oil all natural finish is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier. A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum air space. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is an all-natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.

USE: The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. For better penetration the oil should be thinned one to one with Citrus Solvent. Any filling or staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied. The first coat of thinned material should be a liberal one. Apply with a natural bristle brush or sponge brush. Allow this application to sit for 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. If it completely soaks into the wood, apply another coat. Continue to apply coats until wood is saturated and stays glossy for a minimum of 40 minutes but can be 1 ½ hours. If eighty percent of area stays glossy the wood cells are saturated. Then wipe down the surface with clean rag material. Continue to check for any seeping in the next few hours, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface overnight. Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags. For woods with very dense pores, thin with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better for every coat. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.

Tung oil can be applied pure or with Citrus Solvent added if a non-toxic finish is required. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Remember by adding mineral spirits or turpentine, Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the thinners evaporate.

The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coats a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil. Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface. Do not get hung up on the number of coats, let the wood tell you when it has reached its maximum saturation.

Pure Tung Oil is recommended for wood finishing of kitchen tables, chopping blocks, wood and concrete counter tops, wood floors, concrete floors, refinishing wood floors, outdoor decks, outdoor furniture, wood siding, log homes both interior and exterior and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children's toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.

Pure Tung Oil's matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product.

We have found tung oil to be a valuable helper in the workshop. It adheres very well to metal, and a light coat rubbed onto tool steel is an effective rust inhibitor. Wooden handles will also benefit from the occasional coat.

TEMPERATURE: Pure Tung Oil should remain above freezing during and after application for a period of 10 to 15 days. If freezing temperatures do occur it is possible for the fat in the oil to rise out of the oil and deposit on the surface. The warmer the temperature the faster the oil will cure. However direct sunlight baking a surface after a "fresh" application can quickly polymerize the oil and result in a dry rubbery frosted appearance or a distinctly more glossy finish than the surrounding area.

STORING MATERIAL: Pure Tung Oil should be stored in moderate temperatures. Do not freeze and do not store in hot places like attics. It should also be stored out of direct sunlight like a mildly heated basement area. A mixture of Pure Tung Oil and Citrus Solvent should be stored in the "White" Citrus Solvent container. These are treated to hold the Solvent for optimum storage.

FDA: Pure Tung Oil is approved for food contact by the FDA. View document.

REFERENCE: Gunstock Finishing and Care by Donald Newell, Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products - Vol. 1 - 4th edition.

Keep containers tightly closed away from extreme temperature changes and open flames. As with all oils, rags, steel wool or waste soaked with oil, may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place the oil soaked material in a sealed water-filled metal container or hang outside separately to dry.

MSDS: View the Material Safety Data Sheet for this product.

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