# Want to turn a cube van into a dehumidifier kiln



## David Van Asperen (Oct 18, 2020)

Ok ,looking for ideas ,advice etc.
I have this 12foot by 7.5 foot cube Van box that I want to make into a dehumidifier kiln
Figured to use the 4 foot down the center to place wood for drying the edges for ai circulation and equipment etc.
What do think is the best way to insulate this cube . I don't have unlimited money but would like to do it right the first time.
I'm still doing this as a hobby so it does not have to run huge amounts of wood through it and that too is a reason that I would like to keep the cost down.
I live in South Dakota all sorts of weather so intend to be able to add heat if needed
The van does run so I am able to take the kiln to my partners farm where we have logs to mill.
Ok I'm open to all ideas, I've talked with several here about kilns in the past and would really like your honest opinions
PS That old flag will be kept on display in the kiln Not sure just where but it stays

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## Tony (Oct 18, 2020)

I don't have any advice David, but best of luck to you, sounds like a really cool idea to me!

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## Karl_TN (Oct 18, 2020)

Interesting project. Sealing the front cab from the back section would be the first order of business. Then I might consider insulating the back with some thick aluminized foam board.

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## trc65 (Oct 18, 2020)

My first thought is to make a box within a box to get the amount of insulation you may need. This will also allow you to seal seams easier. The rear door may be a problem insulating and keeping it airtight, so might consider adding two hinged (insulated) doors that can swing open when sliding door is up.

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## vegas urban lumber (Oct 18, 2020)

you might try finding some old walk in cooler panels for insulation, they could be screwed to either inside or outside

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## vegas urban lumber (Oct 18, 2020)

Foam panels 4” and 6” - free stuff


I have a bunch of 4 and 6 inch panels left over from insulting the walls of my shop worked great...



siouxcity.craigslist.org

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## djg (Oct 18, 2020)

Ditto what Karl said. Could use construction adhesive to glue 1" pink board (or the silver) and the line with 1/2" plywood over the top.


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## David Van Asperen (Oct 18, 2020)

The sides have about1-1/2 inches behind the existing plywood of the sides Aluminum uprights 32 inches apart.
First thought was to use poly insulation panels but the 1-1/2 is only about R-6 if I remember correct 
Then thought of spray foam ,that would seal all air infiltration and can spray as thick as needed except rear roll up door. The rear door I thought I could use foil tape to seal ad round the door then place thick foam insulation panels on the outside
Just not sure which route to take and if there was something I ver thought of . That's where you Wood Barter wizards shine


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## David Van Asperen (Oct 18, 2020)

vegas urban lumber said:


> Foam panels 4” and 6” - free stuff
> 
> 
> I have a bunch of 4 and 6 inch panels left over from insulting the walls of my shop worked great...
> ...


OMG I completely forgot about Craig's list Will see if this is possibility


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## djg (Oct 18, 2020)

Drive the van in a garage and heat the garage. Sorry I couldn't resist.

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## sprucegum (Oct 19, 2020)

David Van Asperen said:


> OMG I completely forgot about Craig's list Will see if this is possibility


yup polyiso foam panels seem to be readily available on CL for not much money. many of them are used roof insulation removed from commercial buildings often free because it saves them the disposal fees.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2020)

my box- and I use the term very loosely was made out of old scaffold planks. used 1.5 EPS on walls floor and ceiling. 2x4 runners on floor so it did not get crushed. 1" foam on 3 removable doors (going to change doors- I say this every year-9 years now) I just loaded it with about 3500 lbs of burl+- 11'6"x5 deep x 6 tall. 
heat- I have a 70 qt dehumidifier. one day I loaded it with 15 degree frozen wood. used my oil/electric and halegon worklight to get to 60 and then shut them off. it maintained optimum 75-90 temp just from dehumidfier heat after that. also have a cheap 20" box fan for circulation. wired indoor outdoor thermometer ( stuff wire under bottom of load at other end from dehumidifier) to observe temp. do not buy one with electronic wireless sensor. they do not last long in humidity. This is first load for me sense spring. gets too hot to use in summer. I vent to keep below 100. But as use lose water temps go up. when water stops flowing I turn heater and light back on- in a couple days it is at 140 and shut off. very low tech- crude-but extremely effective. this load of burl will be dry in 2 weeks. mine was temporary. worked so well I put on slab and now sorta permanent.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2020)

Ps- have a friend that is using a refer van body with rails to roll loads in. works fabulous- well now that he added vents. He did not believe that dehumidifier would make as much heat as it does. I made same mistake. hint hint....

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 19, 2020)

Ok was going to close the vents but will wait on that sounds like an inch or two of poly foam insulation may be enough
Thanks to all for your time ,tips, and humor

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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2020)

David Van Asperen said:


> Ok was going to close the vents but will wait on that sounds like an inch or two of poly foam insulation may be enough
> Thanks to all for your time ,tips, and humor


Contact me if you have ?s

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 19, 2020)

Well, if I had the time and funds....I'd remove the plywood, wire the cube box with 12volt and 120ac lighting, add a few 120 outlets on 12 gauge. Then fill the voids between the framing with like sized sheet foam, then run 1/2" to 3/4" R-board opposite direction, mark out framing, and tape joints of R-board. Then re-install plywood (1/2" to 3/4") as safety bumpers. I'd plywood to the ceiling. Frame out the vents and box them for use as needed. Have foam plugs to block them when not in use. Make a little door tracks and use 1/4"-1/2" plywood as a slide door over the vent, so you can slide it open to the amount desired when in use.
"Use at least 3/4 ply on the floor over your inso. and use the runners like Mike said. I'd build shelves on one side for small stuff, stainless bread racks and plastic bread trays work well. Use 2 foam sheets to seal off the cab, I'd run them to the corners, giving plenty of overlay. You can hang a plastic sheet on the inside of the back roll door (fastened top and bottom to avoid hang-up on your wood) and then use 2 foam sheets on the outside of the back roll door. You can use a dial probe temperature gauge (cooking gauge) and have a port through the box to monitor temps of the inside from the outside or use an inside/outside home weather station to monitor such. Invest in a black tarp for the roof to use at certain times of the year. Use a 20amp circuit to run your dehumidifier as mike described. Have frame supports to use when cube is loaded to reduce weight on the vehicle suspension. Welding a few scissor jacks on the frame like those used on RV's are better than nothing. Are you parking on a concrete pad? If so, cutting a few 4x4's works too. There are plenty more ideas, but think you have plenty already...

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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> Well, if I had the time and funds....I'd remove the plywood, wire the cube box with 12volt and 120ac lighting, add a few 120 outlets on 12 gauge. Then fill the voids between the framing with like sized sheet foam, then run 1/2" to 3/4" R-board opposite direction, mark out framing, and tape joints of R-board. Then re-install plywood (1/2" to 3/4") as safety bumpers. I'd plywood to the ceiling. Frame out the vents and box them for use as needed. Have foam plugs to block them when not in use. Make a little door tracks and use 1/4"-1/2" plywood as a slide door over the vent, so you can slide it open to the amount desired when in use.
> "Use at least 3/4 ply on the floor over your inso. and use the runners like Mike said. I'd build shelves on one side for small stuff, stainless bread racks and plastic bread trays work well. Use 2 foam sheets to seal off the cab, I'd run them to the corners, giving plenty of overlay. You can hang a plastic sheet on the inside of the back roll door (fastened top and bottom to avoid hang-up on your wood) and then use 2 foam sheets on the outside of the back roll door. You can use a dial probe temperature gauge (cooking gauge) and have a port through the box to monitor temps of the inside from the outside or use an inside/outside home weather station to monitor such. Invest in a black tarp for the roof to use at certain times of the year. Use a 20amp circuit to run your dehumidifier as mike described. Have frame supports to use when cube is loaded to reduce weight on the vehicle suspension. Welding a few scissor jacks on the frame like those used on RV's are better than nothing. Are you parking on a concrete pad? If so, cutting a few 4x4's works too. There are plenty more ideas, but think you have plenty already...



insulation - I disagree- I am an insulation advocate. But. dehumidifier is my only heat source. right now- I have vented. still am at 90+ probably get to 40 tonight. it will be high 80's. this is perfect. I will shut vent this week- supposed to get into low 20's. I will still be at 80+ and my box- Ha Ha is not tight by any means. if you super insulate. more vents.... or run electricity for fan. It is very important that wood does not get to hot in beginning. water needs to be coaxed out- not forced.
Darrin- former member that sold plans on ebay for kiln- advised NO insulation and he lived in Minn.

"Make a little door tracks and use 1/4"-1/2" plywood as a slide door over the vent, so you can slide it open to the amount desired when in use."
 I will take a picture Wed.- on road tomorrow. Only to prove that vent was afterthought and definitely a very redneck solution.... Everyone needs the laugh...
I live in kiln in summer- dry- hot. need to slow some things down. all we are trying to do is emulate and speed up nature. There is something to KISS -keep it simple stupid when it comes to drying wood. 
I have 2 20 amp circuits for heat and Dhumid.

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 20, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> insulation - I disagree- I am an insulation advocate. But. dehumidifier is my only heat source. right now- I have vented. still am at 90+ probably get to 40 tonight. it will be high 80's. this is perfect. I will shut vent this week- supposed to get into low 20's. I will still be at 80+ and my box- Ha Ha is not tight by any means. if you super insulate. more vents.... or run electricity for fan. It is very important that wood does not get to hot in beginning. water needs to be coaxed out- not forced.
> Darrin- former member that sold plans on ebay for kiln- advised NO insulation and he lived in Minn.
> 
> "Make a little door tracks and use 1/4"-1/2" plywood as a slide door over the vent, so you can slide it open to the amount desired when in use."
> ...



I simply went based on others I know that used foam insulation in his area. We don't get -40 here very often, but those temps will radiate an empty cube and even one with wood, and kill most dehumidifiers. Another reason to get the dehumidifier for low temps. Plus I said if I was doing it, then it would have multi-purpose. Could use it for frost free safe place for plants, ruffin it RV, tool storage and more....


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## Mike1950 (Oct 20, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> I simply went based on others I know that used foam insulation in his area. We don't get -40 here very often, but those temps will radiate an empty cube and even one with wood, and kill most dehumidifiers. Another reason to get the dehumidifier for low temps. Plus I said if I was doing it, then it would have multi-purpose. Could use it for frost free safe place for plants, ruffin it RV, tool storage and more....


never operated mine below -15 still heated space enough to do what it does. I plug any holes then and maintain 80+ Now trying to start kiln at below zero or freezing- you need auxiliary heating. again Darrin in Minn. advocated no insulation. 
Multi-purpose. Mine is not.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 20, 2020)

@Mr. Peet Invest in a black tarp for the roof to use at certain times of the year . ??? what is this for? If it is heat? it is totally unnecessary expense. and a pain in the butt if you have wind. No wind in South Dakota-Right Dave.. 
Excuse my sarcasm/humor but just making my point. Keep it very simple. I made mine temporary and crude. Why- I was skeptical that it would work. With very crude kiln it performed way beyond my expectations. Try to vent on side- much easier to get to and keep rain and snow out. do not make tight clearances on vent door. escaping warm moist air hits the cold and ices up. My greatest difficulty in very cold weather is keeping water drain flowing. started with 24" of hose sticking out - now 2". if it freezes I use pliers to break up ice on inside of hose.
and to add- simple works. you are just trying to mimic natures natural drying process. almost 10 years. This really applies in this case- Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 20, 2020)

Got lots to ponder on and hope to get it all sorted out . The box has 3 side vents now that I believe would be easy to work with and add the sliding covers when needed 
I most likely will not be using it this winter unless I get really a bios and mill the elm logs I've got on hand 
Hope to have it completed for he spring is my goal as of now. 
All of you have been extremely helpful and insightful I know everyone's time is valuable and the fact that you have taken your time to assist me is really . I joined Wood Barter to get a $5 discount on Darrins plans but I have goo ten much more than that You members are the real reason I remain on Wood Barter I have never been treated so well by so many for so little effort on my part I only hope to be able to help someone as much as you've helped me with REAL ,HONEST information 
Again thanks to all
Dave

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 20, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> @Mr. Peet Invest in a black tarp for the roof to use at certain times of the year . ??? what is this for? If it is heat? it is totally unnecessary expense. and a pain in the butt if you have wind. No wind in South Dakota-Right Dave..
> Excuse my sarcasm/humor but just making my point. Keep it very simple. I made mine temporary and crude. Why- I was skeptical that it would work. With very crude kiln it performed way beyond my expectations. Try to vent on side- much easier to get to and keep rain and snow out. do not make tight clearances on vent door. escaping warm moist air hits the cold and ices up. My greatest difficulty in very cold weather is keeping water drain flowing. started with 24" of hose sticking out - now 2". if it freezes I use pliers to break up ice on inside of hose.
> and to add- simple works. you are just trying to mimic natures natural drying process. almost 10 years. This really applies in this case- Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.



The black tarp is a cheap solar trick, similar to wearing a dark robe in the summer heat. However, with a person, there is sweat, and the thermal shift creates air movement, which triggers evaporation, which is a cooling effect. For the kiln, the tarp would be draped over the front of the vehicle and could be tucked in the cab and held by the closed doors. The cab to box door open, back door rolled up a few inches, and the vents opened a whisker or three could really pull moisture on some days, without the electric. Just another option that could aid. Yes, wind and rain are issues, but again was just putting out options.

There are some that use freezers and refrigerators...they freeze the wood, 0 to -20F for a few weeks, then put it in a frig. The extreme cold is a bug control and a freeze dry step. Then it goes in the frig, acts as a slow dehumidifier. Once the wood is at equilibrium, they either freeze the wood again or bake it to the 141F as a safety cure. Like math, often many ways to get the same answer.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 20, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> The black tarp is a cheap solar trick, similar to wearing a dark robe in the summer heat. However, with a person, there is sweat, and the thermal shift creates air movement, which triggers evaporation, which is a cooling effect. For the kiln, the tarp would be draped over the front of the vehicle and could be tucked in the cab and held by the closed doors. The cab to box door open, back door rolled up a few inches, and the vents opened a whisker or three could really pull moisture on some days, without the electric. Just another option that could aid. Yes, wind and rain are issues, but again was just putting out options.
> 
> There are some that use freezers and refrigerators...they freeze the wood, 0 to -20F for a few weeks, then put it in a frig. The extreme cold is a bug control and a freeze dry step. Then it goes in the frig, acts as a slow dehumidifier. Once the wood is at equilibrium, they either freeze the wood again or bake it to the 141F as a safety cure. Like math, often many ways to get the same answer.


we are obviously not communicating. I have operated kiln for 9 years. Never- other than starting it in freezing weather have I needed auxiliary heat. when starting in freezing weather -yes I need extra heat for a day or 2. Cost is minimal for this heat. I cannot imagine how long it would take to get it warm in 15 degree weather here using a dark tarp. usually it would entail shoveling snow off roof. none of my suggested info above comes from a book. It all comes from running kiln from oct-may for 9 years. Again- Dehumidifier creates enough heat to keep at 80+ you need no more. I shall take pics this week. temps are supposed to get to low 20s- I will show with pictures.... and I will be show shutting my highly technical vent tomorrow in preparation for cold weather. Commercial kiln manf. want to make you think this is rocket science- it aint at hobby levels and I consider 3500 lbs-wet of burl every 5-6 weeks beyond hobby.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

and if any sarcasm is noted above- excuse me- it is not intended - i made my 700+ mile trip up and down gorge today- yes trailer and truck is full. beautiful quilt and burl- but my butt is sore and I am feeling my years.... Edit- yes I know Pictures tomorrow.....

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 21, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> and if any sarcasm is noted above- excuse me- it is not intended - i made my 700+ mile trip up and down gorge today- yes trailer and truck is full. beautiful quilt and burl- but my butt is sore and I am feeling my years.... Edit- yes I know Pictures tomorrow.....



Good question, never heard of anybody using a black tarp in the winter for heating a kiln. However know plenty that have used them for aiding snow smelt and precipitation weight management. Maybe you did not follow, the tarp was not meant as a winter primary heat source, but an aid when beneficial. This is more often a spring through fall option. Of coarse aspect, slope, tree positioning and other items play a direct role as well. Glad you were out traveling. East coast states are entering shutdowns again. Getting tired of big brother.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> Good question, never heard of anybody using a black tarp in the winter for heating a kiln. However know plenty that have used them for aiding snow smelt and precipitation weight management. Maybe you did not follow, the tarp was not meant as a winter primary heat source, but an aid when beneficial. This is more often a spring through fall option. Of coarse aspect, slope, tree positioning and other items play a direct role as well. Glad you were out traveling. East coast states are entering shutdowns again. Getting tired of big brother.


 again. Spring- fall. I vent in spring and fall to keep temps in parameters I want. If not my 55-60 degree day temps become 110 kiln temps. Or more. I like 75-90. 
I only use auxiliary heat for bug kill and to get sub freezing start up above 45-50. Never and I mean NEVER do i need extra heat. A dehumidifier puts out a lot of BTUs
Did not know you were going back in lockdown. Morons. Idaho Wyoming and others are wide open. They are doing fine.

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 21, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> again. Spring- fall. I vent in spring and fall to keep temps in parameters I want. If not my 55-60 degree day temps become 110 kiln temps. Or more. I like 75-90.
> I only use auxiliary heat for bug kill and to get sub freezing start up above 45-50. Never and I mean NEVER do i need extra heat. A dehumidifier puts out a lot of BTUs
> Did not know you were going back in lockdown. Morons. Idaho Wyoming and others are wide open. They are doing fine.



Thanks Mike, sounds sensible for sure. 

Ya, the cities are really putting a squeeze on the rural community again via our PA governor's actions. Unlike what we have been told, this house will have candy for the kids for Halloween, we will gather by choice for Veteran's Day, we will celebrate Thanksgiving with family, and Christ will not be hidden. Glad you and your bride are able to live a life earned and enjoy fruits of your labors. Seize the day.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> Thanks Mike, sounds sensible for sure.
> 
> Ya, the cities are really putting a squeeze on the rural community again via our PA governor's actions. Unlike what we have been told, this house will have candy for the kids for Halloween, we will gather by choice for Veteran's Day, we will celebrate Thanksgiving with family, and Christ will not be hidden. Glad you and your bride are able to live a life earned and enjoy fruits of your labors. Seize the day.


So stupid- rural folks already social distance. sorta the definition of rural.
we are rule followers- especially Kathie. But our Dictator of the United socialist state of washington has gone way too far. We will have Halloween- hope little brats come otherwise I have a lot of candy to eat. we will have T-Day- we will Have Christmas. We will continue our life and freedoms granted to each and everyone of us by our law of the land- The Constitution. 
we were supposed to do this for a couple weeks to flatten curve. 7 months later- who the hell knows why we are doing it. But we are only going along with what we must. Suicide rates are up- murder rates are up- we have accomplished nothing...
Thanks we are both very lucky- healthy- excited with life and most important-still have Purpose.
and @David Van Asperen if you want I will remove this if you desire- did not intend to hijack thread. I just read the news well at least what I could stomach.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

Back to subject of post. The vent. I should not be releasing these photos till I apply for patent.  hey. It works.... I told you it was temporary.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

Ps . That thermometer is cheap and is amazingly durable. It lives a hard life outside. Inside temp is outside and outside is in kiln. Supposed to get cold. I shut vent. Will picture temp tomorrow morning.

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 21, 2020)

@Mike1950
I may kinda copy that pre- patent design but will not mass produce for resale, if that is ok
Here are a couple of pictures of the vents, 3 total 2 in front near the cab and one in the rear all are near the top of the van box. There are 4 - 2 inch holes in each vent , the picture of the outside of the vent shows a flat metal bar , it allows me to close the vent holes in any amount to completely closed and all of the are funtioning
The box is a total of 607 cubic feet. I believe this current venting will allow me to Conrol the temp adaquitly.
What do all of you think?

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

ended at 89.9 today- supposed to get to 25 tonight. Let us see what temp is in morning.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

I think venting is enough. might/probably freeze up in cold weather- metal- humidity.... do not want to be "that" guy but. mobile kiln- why. sell van. buy refer van body- already insulated. and have money left over to buy dehumid- fan and......... If I were to do it again and I might- a refer van would be my choice. good luck


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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

and David- first time you try this you will think- wow- that was stupid simple. each wood is different. but extracting water from it is simple. I will have almost 2 tons dry in first week of Nov. it will have been effortless. and cost about $25-30 do not try to over think it- go back to Darrins original plans...

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 21, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> I think venting is enough. might/probably freeze up in cold weather- metal- humidity.... do not want to be "that" guy but. mobile kiln- why. sell van. buy refer van body- already insulated. and have money left over to buy dehumid- fan and......... If I were to do it again and I might- a refer van would be my choice. good luck


Some of the reasoning for what I have 
Cube Van bodies that I have seen in this area are about$800 , I paid $1100 for this one and $60 for a fuel pump and filter it is now mobil. My partner lives about 5 miles from me ,he is on the farm and I live in town with limited space The mill is movable so when I don't need I here it goes to the farm and now so does the kiln. My partner wants a refer but I haven't seen him get one yet ( been 4 years) I was unable to find anything already insulated that came close to to what I have in this one . 
Long story short ,it was available I could afford it and I can move it when I need to
Also it is a 1989 model which makes it over 30 years old and I now have historic license plates for it cost me $15 and are permanent no more cost. Paid about $60 for 3 months worth of the year to start with.

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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2020)

David Van Asperen said:


> Some of the reasoning for what I have
> Cube Van bodies that I have seen in this area are about$800 , I paid $1100 for this one and $60 for a fuel pump and filter it is now mobil. My partner lives about 5 miles from me ,he is on the farm and I live in town with limited space The mill is movable so when I don't need I here it goes to the farm and now so does the kiln. My partner wants a refer but I haven't seen him get one yet ( been 4 years) I was unable to find anything already insulated that came close to to what I have in this one .
> Long story short ,it was available I could afford it and I can move it when I need to
> Also it is a 1989 model which makes it over 30 years old and I now have historic license plates for it cost me $15 and are permanent no more cost. Paid about $60 for 3 months worth of the year to start with.


I understand that logic- but now that it is running great how much can you get for it. How much is a 20' container there. so many options. I do not see advantage of kiln being mobile. Key word "I"


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## David Van Asperen (Oct 21, 2020)

The though they process for me is that the bulk of the logs I have to mill are on the farm . I just been milling a few local neighborhood trees and really only have room for a few logs at a time . When the mill goa to the farm I don't really want to load the slabs and bring them to the kiln just to restock in he kiln. If my partner ever get moving on his new thatbis if not then this is about the size I need and the movable part would not be that big of a deal
I'll have to check some prices again so I give real numbers on what is available and maybe I'll find out that this isn't the way to go

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## Mr. Peet (Oct 22, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> I understand that logic- but now that it is running great how much can you get for it. How much is a 20' container there. so many options. I do not see advantage of kiln being mobile. Key word "I"



Here, a mobile kiln disguised as a cube-van is not taxed. Any other non-mobile item is taxed. Not sure about Washington or South Dakota. Only exception for us is farm stuff.

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 22, 2020)

Looks like $2000-$3000 for uninsulated storage containers plus delivery .refer Van bodies I just am not finding anything local but I know they are out there . Probably not using the right search words. Not sure but I might be able to get $1500 for the cube Van now that it runs but that's about it

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## Mike1950 (Oct 22, 2020)

David Van Asperen said:


> Looks like $2000-$3000 for uninsulated storage containers plus delivery .refer Van bodies I just am not finding anything local but I know they are out there . Probably not using the right search words. Not sure but I might be able to get $1500 for the cube Van now that it runs but that's about it



was just a thought. I like loading mine with tractor. will you be able to get in and sticker?

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## Mike1950 (Oct 22, 2020)

dropped to 87 27 degrees outside. need to seal a little better but it will get above 90 today. PERFECT. down from 2 drips per second when I loaded to a drip every 2 seconds. when it first gets to temp it is amazing how much water pours out. Maple burl sheds water easy. 1 drip per second is 5 gallons a day...

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 22, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> was just a thought. I like loading mine with tractor. will you be able to get in and sticker?


Yes I'll be able to get in in but it will all be manual labor.
I'm going to try it and hope I'm up to the labor part.
I am no longer worried that the rest of the kiln will work

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## Mike1950 (Oct 22, 2020)

David Van Asperen said:


> Yes I'll be able to get in in but it will all be manual labor.
> I'm going to try it and hope I'm up to the labor part.
> I am no longer worried that the rest of the kiln will work


Oh it will work. 
Stickering and then shoveing a board in keeping stickers in place will be difficult. If possible. All set ups like you are doing with door at end use some sort of rollers. Sticker and stack out side and then roll in. If your lumber is small it will work. Think about being cramped stooped over and wrestling heavy lumber. Sticker placement does not matter with burl but it sure does with lumber. 
Not trying to be negative but think about how you are going to load.

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## David Van Asperen (Oct 22, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> Oh it will work.
> Stickering and then shoveing a board in keeping stickers in place will be difficult. If possible. All set ups like you are doing with door at end use some sort of rollers. Sticker and stack out side and then roll in. If your lumber is small it will work. Think about being cramped stooped over and wrestling heavy lumber. Sticker placement does not matter with burl but it sure does with lumber.
> Not trying to be negative but think about how you are going to load.


Not taking it negative and always like to have those things to think through before I actually have to do it

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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