# Rusting band saw table



## wombat (Feb 15, 2020)

Just wondering how you guys keep your saw tables from rusting. I've WD40'd it a couple of times, it gets rid of the old rust but doesn't prevent it from coming back. 
Any suggestions are appreciated.


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## Sprung (Feb 15, 2020)

As needed I apply a coat of paste wax to exposed cast iron (saw tables, jointer, etc). Put some on, let it sit for a few, buff it out.

But, whatever route you go, it's going to require ongoing maintenance - that is, whatever product you use, you'll eventually have to reapply it.

Reactions: Agree 4


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## Dmcoffman (Feb 15, 2020)

Johnson's Paste Floor Wax after cleaning/removing rust. I keep a can (from Lowe's) in my shop I use it a few times a year on the bandsaw, table saw, joiner, all cast iron beds it also makes wood move smoother.

Reactions: Agree 6


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## JerseyHighlander (Feb 15, 2020)

Essentially the same answer as the two above, except I've always used Butcher's Wax. Also known as bowling alley wax. And yes, the wood will slide like it's going across an air hockey table so be careful till you get used to it.

Reactions: Useful 1


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## Tony (Feb 15, 2020)

I clean mine with WD40 and steel wool. Let it totally dry then I apply Turtle Wax for a car. Buff it off, it lasts a good long time.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1 | Useful 1


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## Mike Mills (Feb 15, 2020)

I have been using this product for lots of years. Pour it into a spray bottle and give a light coat for light rust. I then "buff" will a steel cup brush in an angle grinder. Then wax.
This way high now ($$$$), I bought some last year and it was about $14.
When looking up Ospho I saw this ... will probably do the exact same but very little$$$$.

Both convert iron oxide to iron phosphate.


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## Tony (Feb 15, 2020)

Mike Mills said:


> I have been using this product for lots of years. Pour it into a spray bottle and give a light coat for light rust. I then "buff" will a steel cup brush in an angle grinder. Then wax.
> This way high now ($$$$), I bought some last year and it was about $14.
> When looking up Ospho I saw this ... will probably do the exact same but very little$$$$.
> 
> Both convert iron oxide to iron phosphate.



Mike, your links just come up as Amazon, no products.


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## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 15, 2020)

I've used Top Coat for years and it works well to seal the iron and keep the rust from returning. I see it has gone up in price as I used to buy this for $12 a can.

Reactions: Useful 1


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## djg (Feb 15, 2020)

A guy either here or another forum was against using was stating it would be transferred to the wood and then cause finishing problems. Real, I don't know.

And I too was going to use topcote until I saw the price.


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## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 15, 2020)

djg said:


> A guy either here or another forum was against using was stating it would be transferred to the wood and then cause finishing problems. Real, I don't know.
> 
> And I too was going to use topcote until I saw the price.


It doesn't have silicone in it and dries quickly. I've never had a problem with finishing wood that touched it but maybe someone has. Of course, the surface is sanded before finishing anyway and that is all done by hand on a workbench.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Schroedc (Feb 15, 2020)

I remove the rust with steel wool or a sander, then paste wax. Been doing it for years and it's easy for be since I have the wax on have for furniture anyways

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## JerseyHighlander (Feb 15, 2020)

djg said:


> A guy either here or another forum was against using was stating it would be transferred to the wood and then cause finishing problems. Real, I don't know.
> 
> And I too was going to use topcote until I saw the price.



A shop I worked in for a couple years used it all the time and it was never an issue with finishing. It dries into the table and is buffed clean like a wax also so no real residue to rub off. I don't think it works as well or last as long as Butcher's Wax though and it's certainly more expensive.

Worked in one production shop long time ago & very briefly, where they kept a can of silicone spray on every saw table. Guys would mist down the whole table every time before they started cutting. Tried to explain this was why they're lacquer finishes were pockmarked. They just couldn't except it. Didn't stay there more than a couple weeks.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## djg (Feb 16, 2020)

Anyone ever use Naval Jelly to remove rust? Too harsh? Overkill?


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## Mike1950 (Feb 16, 2020)

I use nothing- helps to live in the desert....


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## pinky (Feb 16, 2020)

I had some of my tools 20+ years and never did a thing to them in Wi. Moved them down to FL. and it is a constant battle. To Quote the old, old man, GRRRR!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 16, 2020)

Johnsons paste wax or minwax are my go to tools for rust prevention. I regularly coat my cast iron surfaces with it. Helps with finish not sticking to the lathe bed too.


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## Mike Mills (Feb 16, 2020)

Tony said:


> Mike, your links just come up as Amazon, no products.



I don't know what I am doing wrong, it only happens here. Will try again.

Doing the same thing. I have seen it with others who posted also. Should just be able to copy & past the link.
Here is the product at Amazon .. 
*Ospho 605 Metal Treatment*
The other less expensive, which I haven't tried is...
*Barrier Bond - Rust Off - Rust-Converter Coating - 1 Quart Bottle of Premium Rust*

Reactions: Like 1


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## wombat (Feb 16, 2020)

Thanks guys, wax it is then. I had considered wax before, but didn't think it would stick!


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## Otterhound (Feb 16, 2020)

JerseyHighlander said:


> A shop I worked in for a couple years used it all the time and it was never an issue with finishing. It dries into the table and is buffed clean like a wax also so no real residue to rub off. I don't think it works as well or last as long as Butcher's Wax though and it's certainly more expensive.
> 
> Worked in one production shop long time ago & very briefly, where they kept a can of silicone spray on every saw table. Guys would mist down the whole table every time before they started cutting. Tried to explain this was why they're lacquer finishes were pockmarked. They just couldn't except it. Didn't stay there more than a couple weeks.


CF Martin had an issue with silicone a few years ago . Seems that fisheye was showing up randomly . They eventually traced it back to a perfume that 1 woman wore on occasion. Perfume has been banned ever since . I use Johnson's Paste Wax .


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## Wildthings (Feb 16, 2020)

Mike Mills said:


> I don't know what I am doing wrong, it only happens here. Will try again.
> 
> Doing the same thing. I have seen it with others who posted also. Should just be able to copy & past the link.
> Here is the product at Amazon ..
> ...


 @Mike Mills Mike you have to remove the very first of the link (https//)...everything in front of the www.
Amazon is the only site that has this problem when linking

Metal Treatment

Reactions: Informative 1


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## djg (Feb 17, 2020)

I was hoping someone would had replied to my questions. Maybe no one has any experience with Naval Jelly, but if so, I'd like to hear from you.
Thanks, I'm planning on using it soon.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 17, 2020)

djg said:


> I was hoping someone would had replied to my questions. Maybe no one has any experience with Naval Jelly, but if so, I'd like to hear from you.
> Thanks, I'm planning on using it soon.


Did you dig it out of your navel?
Kidding of course, let us know how it works for ya.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## djg (Feb 17, 2020)

I was just wondering if it may be too harsh, need neutralizing, etc. It's phosphoric acid based. I haven't really googled it yet, just thought someone would know. I'll do a test area first of course.


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## Mike Mills (Feb 17, 2020)

I used Naval Jelly quite a bit years ago. All that I had came as a goop ..paint or spread it on about like mayo. Then you have to take it off.
I believe both of the products I listed are also phosphoric acid based. The difference is they are thin as water and I use an old spray bottle and just give the item a light mist.
Here is a link to the second one, much cheaper than Ospho but I haven't tried it.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07WM3CKS2/ref=psdc_15718511_t2_B000C02CDG

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## ironman123 (Feb 17, 2020)

@Mike Mills I used to use Ospho in the gallon jugs from SW Paint. Used it on rusty Model T bodies. Mopped it on with a mop. Was great stuff.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## trc65 (Feb 17, 2020)

IMO, the best thing about Naval jelly was that it was a gel. Worst thing you were dealing with an acid.

You can now get Evapo-rust and Metal Rescue as gels, then you aren't working with acid. I recently used Metal-rescue gel on a project with great results.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 2


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## djg (Feb 18, 2020)

Looks like Ospho and Barrier Bond are about the same; both leave a black coating that can be painted. Evaporust and Metal rescue appear to be soak/apply - wipe off products that leave bare steel. Maybe better for tool surfaces.


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