# Agate table lamp project



## DLJeffs (Aug 29, 2020)

I've had this idea for some table lamps for quite awhile now. Since I built those other two - with the maple arches and walnut doughnuts - not sure we need more table lamps. But I have to see if I can do this. So here goes:

Step 1: Draw up a design and get some wood. I had some beauty curly maple thins from Mike1950 and got some nice mahogany from Larry. Got a couple more maple thins from Mike so I now have wood. Checked the design against the wood to ensure the dimensions were compatible with the wood. In short, the design provides for a mahogany frame box with side panels made from the maple thins. Polished agate slices will be inserted into the panels. An LED light will be inside the box. The main light socket will extend out the top of the box. A single two pole switch will turn on the light inside the box, the main light, or both. The base will be mahogany. That's the plan.

Step 2: Figure out how to insert the agate slices into the panels. Decided the best option was to decide which side of the maple thin would be the outside. Placing the maple thin with the inside surface up, center an agate slice and trace around the agate slice. Then duplicate that line approximately an eighth inch inside the first tracing. Drill several starter / change of direction holes; put a fine tooth scroll blade in my jigsaw and cut out along the inside line. Use wood files to smooth out any rough spots and get as close to the line as possible. Note: The edges of the agate slices aren't square, they taper on way or the other. You want the largest side down against the panel when you trace it. That's also the direction the agate will be inserted during final build. If you put the agate slice in so the edges taper away from the hole, there's a good chance light will shine around the edge of the agate.

Step 3: Get a new toy - justify it to wife because she'll get two new table lamps. My new toy is a trim router. Went with the DeWalt variable speed, it seemed to get the best reviews all around and wasn't the highest priced one. It just seemed way safer than trying to use my big router. Put a rabbiting bit with a bearing in the router and set the depth to approx half the thickness of the maple thin. Then route around the inside of the cutout. This produces approx a 3/32" rabbit all around the inside of the cutout.

Step 4: Test fit the agate slice. If it doesn't fit, determine where a little trimming is needed and mark those areas with a pencil. Insert a flat trim bit in the router, set the depth the same as the rabbit, and then carefully widen the rabbit where needed. Test and repeat as needed until the agate slips into the rabbit with no force (you don't want to crack the agate slice).

When done, the agate slices should fit snugly into the rabbit. Looking at the panel from the outside face, I didn't want to see any light coming through around the edges and I don't. So far so good. I'll sand and probably round the outside edge of the cutout. I think it would look very cool if I could put a shallow angle taper around the cutout but not sure how I'd do that.





















Made four panels today. Next, make four more panels, cut out and rough sand the panels (so I know the final thickness) and then start the mahogany frame.

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## ripjack13 (Aug 29, 2020)




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## woodtickgreg (Aug 29, 2020)



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## cabomhn (Aug 29, 2020)

Wow seems like it should be a really cool final product, especially when lit up!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DLJeffs (Aug 29, 2020)

cabomhn said:


> Wow seems like it should be a really cool final product, especially when lit up!



Hope so. Backlighting those sliced agates was the trigger...and trying to figure out something to do with those gorgeous maple thins. Still trying to decide what's the best way to secure the agate slices in the cutouts. Leaning toward a simple silicon caulk or something like that. Open for suggestions.

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## Mr. Peet (Aug 29, 2020)

DLJeffs said:


> Hope so. Backlighting those sliced agates was the trigger...and trying to figure out something to do with those gorgeous maple thins. Still trying to decide what's the best way to secure the agate slices in the cutouts. Leaning toward a simple silicon caulk or something like that. Open for suggestions.



Brass threaded "L" brackets with rubber boots on the brass support. Allows movement. However, on the flip side with LED zero heat lights, not really an issue now days....


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## DLJeffs (Aug 29, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> Brass threaded "L" brackets with rubber boots on the brass support. Allows movement. However, on the flip side with LED zero heat lights, not really an issue now days....



Yes, like they use for glass panels in cabinets, right? That was one of my options, as well as just making small wooden brackets. Problem is the maple thins are only 1/4" thick and I don't want tiny screws to poke through to the other side. Many silicon based caulks are good to 450 - 500F too.

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## barry richardson (Aug 29, 2020)

That's a great idea Doug, looking forward to see how it turns out!

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## Karl_TN (Aug 29, 2020)

Can’t wait to see how this turns out. There’s a lot of great tips and those instructions.

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## woodtickgreg (Aug 30, 2020)

How about a clear epoxy?


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## DLJeffs (Aug 30, 2020)

woodtickgreg said:


> How about a clear epoxy?



Thought about that. But if I ever needed to replace one of the agate slices (not that I expect them to crack or anything), most epoxies cure rock hard and are pretty difficult to remove and I'd probably end up damaging the maple. At least with a silicon you can usually cut it away with a razor. Thinking about that tho, the cutout and rabbit is custom made for that specific agate slice. If I had to replace the agate, I'd have to remake the maple panel anyway.

Which brings up another question - should I glue the panels in place? I plan to make dados on all four sides for the panels to set in. I've read where they say not to glue panels in cabinet doors and stuff because the wood "moves" a little and you need that flexibility. If I didn't glue them, and had to replace a panel, I could simply slide the broken one out and remake a new one, slide it in and put the lamp back together.

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## woodtickgreg (Aug 30, 2020)

Use the epoxy and don't glue the panels in. Your on the right track.


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## DLJeffs (Aug 30, 2020)

Finished up the panels today, cut to final dimension, sanded to 180 grit. They're looking pretty good. Unfortunately it looks like I lost most of that beautiful quilting / curling whatever it's called. Maybe it'll come back when I get to finish sanding and finishing. Next up, start cutting mahogany.

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## DLJeffs (Aug 30, 2020)

woodtickgreg said:


> Use the epoxy and don't glue the panels in. Your on the right track.



Will epoxy soak into the wood, potentially creating a dark spot or stain?


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## woodtickgreg (Aug 31, 2020)

DLJeffs said:


> Will epoxy soak into the wood, potentially creating a dark spot or stain?


Not likely or not very deep. Besides that the epoxy is very clear. You could always try some on a scrap piece to see if it is to your liking. I have used it on cherry and walnut and not had any issues with staining.


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## DLJeffs (Oct 10, 2020)

Sorry for the month long lapse in progress. I'll never claim to be fast when it comes to working with sharp stuff that can cause me pain. But I haven't been completely slacking. I made a couple sleds - one for cross cutting flats, such as box sides: and one for making miters in smaller stock such as picture frame type stuff. Thanks to all who offered advice and guidance. I think the sled worked way better than using my chop saw for making these frames. The miters seem a lot tighter and clean. Yesterday and today I used the second sled to make the "frame" that hides the end grain on the bases for these lamps. I screwed up one base (tried to joint the end grain, doh) so I have to make another one. Then I screwed up a second time by joining the wrong edge on the frame boards, so when I fit them against the base, they're about 3/32 shorted in width. But that'll work out when I run them through my buddies drum sander to square them up. Hopefully, next I'll make the 4th base and route the dado slots in the bases. Then I check the dry fit of the boxes. Once I have the boxes done, the rest is pretty straight forward, except figuring out the best way to put the light inside the box AND run the tubing up through the box to the main light above. Stay tuned...

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## Ray D (Oct 10, 2020)

Very nice. Looking forward to seeing the final results.

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## DLJeffs (Oct 13, 2020)

Progress made today. Final trimming of box parts, routed dado cuts in the top and bottom, squared off the cuts with a chisel, and then fit up. It fit!! I'm so proud of meself. The joints are tight, it's square... now if I can just do the same on the second one. Panels are those curly maple thins Mike sold me. The top, bottom and sides are mahogany. Hopefully the color will better match when I get finish on it. The corner posts are dowelled into the top and bottom.

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## T. Ben (Oct 14, 2020)




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## Chris S. (Oct 29, 2020)

I can't wait to see final results. Been thinking about similar projects myself. Looking forward to your results.


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## DLJeffs (Oct 30, 2020)

Thanks Chris. I just got my lamp parts yesterday. So now I can figure out exactly how the whole thing will fit together and I can make the final cuts on the wood. I've been sanding and applying clear poly to the box shape. I'll post more pics as soon as I make more progress worth recording.

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## DLJeffs (Nov 2, 2020)

Made enough progress to be worth posting an update. I received all my lamp components, which I needed before I could make some final decisions about the base and the support blocks. You can see in the layout photo, I ordered some brass bent tubes and couplings so I could route the wiring into one corner of the box, while at the same time putting a small night light in the center. I did that to avoid having a shadow across one of the agate slices. On hindsight, I probably could have saved some money and simply got a piece of 3/4" X 1/8" bar stock and bent it into a square 'C' shape with the long dimension of the 'C' equal to the inside height of my boxes. Drill holes at each end, run the tubing thru the holes at the top and bottom of the box, trap it underneath the hickeys using the lock rings and nuts. Then when I pull the wires, I could simply cable tie the wire to the bar stock. The wires don't need to be in metal tubing.









Next I worked on the base. I needed to figure out where the 3 way switch would go and how I would run the cord out of the base. I also needed to make a large enough recess to accommodate the wire nuts when I make all the connections. My bases are a piece of 3/4" MDF and a piece of 3/8" plywood, covered with 5/16" mahogany. So I drilled a 2 1/2" hole through the MDF and plywood to provide the space for the connections. I routed a space for the 3 way switch and a groove for the wiring. I drilled a 1/4" hole in one side of the base for the cord. Then I cut my miters and glued the sides and top onto the base. Next is sanding and rounding the edges and applying finish, etc.









I also needed to make the support piece that goes between the base and the box, and the top spacer which goes between the top of the box and the main lamp socket and harp. The top was pretty easy to figure out once I had my top tubing. I think I'm going to route a cove around the upper edge of that piece before I finish it. I played with various heights between the base and box and settled on 2 1/2". That leaves room for the easy access to the 3 way switch knob and seems to provide good perspective relative to overall height. I had to cut off my bottom threaded tubes. I think I'll also make the base about an inch wider than the block at the top. To do that I'll cut the same mahogany block as the top, but I'll glue a piece to each side to make it wider. The supports in the photo are just scrap cut to 2 1/2" so I could see what it would look like.





So far, I'm liking the way it looks and fits together. My concept right now is the base, lower support block, and the bottom of the box will all be glued together. The top of the box will not be glued, it will be held in place by dowel pins and the threaded tube that runs out the top. That way I have access inside the box when I need to change the light bulb. Haven't decided whether to glue the upper block to the top of the box or not.

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## T. Ben (Nov 2, 2020)




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## woodtickgreg (Nov 2, 2020)




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## woodtickgreg (Nov 2, 2020)

I can't wait to see this thing lit up!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## DLJeffs (Nov 7, 2020)

I didn't like the plain square block for the top spacer so was playing with other designs. Tried to route a cove on the square block - that works when going with the grain but chipped out badly when going cross grain. You guys all knew that, I do now. Even a support block at the end of the spacer didn't prevent it. Then I thought "route a piece like moulding and then put that on the spacer". So that's what I did. Worked great. I like the Asian influence. So all the components are now done, only need to finish the spacer and then put it all together.

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## Mr. Peet (Nov 7, 2020)

DLJeffs said:


> I didn't like the plain square block for the top spacer so was playing with other designs. Tried to route a cove on the square block - that works when going with the grain but chipped out badly when going cross grain. You guys all knew that, I do now. Even a support block at the end of the spacer didn't prevent it. Then I thought "route a piece like moulding and then put that on the spacer". So that's what I did. Worked great. I like the Asian influence. So all the components are now done, only need to finish the spacer and then put it all together.
> 
> View attachment 195821



Its been a long time since I've used a shaper, or even a router table, but back then, I used a scrap piece, knocked the corner off on the table saw, an angle matching the cove. If the cove was deep and had a lot of wood to remove, I'd make several passes at deepening depths until satisfied. A few times I set the table saw up on a 45 or other agreeable angle and used it as a plow to remove wood to reduce load on the cove bit, and try limiting burn. Did not always work as well as it sounds. Was good for small pieces, but more challenging with bigger ones.

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## woodtickgreg (Nov 8, 2020)

And a other thing to do is to rout the end grain first and then the long grain. This way if the end grain chips out it will usually clean up when you do the long grain. 
But the lamps are coming alongvery nicely.


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## DLJeffs (Nov 8, 2020)

Sure, now you tell me! Where were you guys two days ago? Actually, I thought I was making very small passes with my router as Mark suggests. But I still got chip out. I did not cut away most of the waste using my table saw tho. Maybe I needed to make even thinner passes. I did not try to route the end grain first. Although on one pass a chip that spanned the entire width of the spacer block blew out so it would have showed outside the final cove cut no matter what I did. Does dryness effect the propensity to chip out? I used part of this same mahogany board a couple years ago when I made a coat / hat stand for our entryway. So this left over piece has been in my garage for a couple years. I did not route the end grain on that coat rack tho. Any more advice is welcome - I need to make a couple of cribbage boards and I route all the way around, so I worry when I do the end grain on those too.

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## Mr. Peet (Nov 8, 2020)

DLJeffs said:


> Sure, now you tell me! Where were you guys two days ago? Actually, I thought I was making very small passes with my router as Mark suggests. But I still got chip out. I did not cut away most of the waste using my table saw tho. Maybe I needed to make even thinner passes. I did not try to route the end grain first. Although on one pass a chip that spanned the entire width of the spacer block blew out so it would have showed outside the final cove cut no matter what I did. Does dryness effect the propensity to chip out? I used part of this same mahogany board a couple years ago when I made a coat / hat stand for our entryway. So this left over piece has been in my garage for a couple years. I did not route the end grain on that coat rack tho. Any more advice is welcome - I need to make a couple of cribbage boards and I route all the way around, so I worry when I do the end grain on those too.



Yes, drier wood often has a higher chance of chipping and burning. The higher moisture often increases tare resistance and absorbs heat better up to a point. Each wood is a bit different.


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## DLJeffs (Nov 10, 2020)

Finished! Final coats of finish on the spacers, whiz bang wires, glued agate slices into place using 5 minute epoxy, put it all back together and they look pretty nice. There's a 4wt LED night light bulb inside and a 60w coil flouro in the main lamp. Found a couple of my agate slices wouldn't quite fit when I went to glue them in. They all fit fine when I first routed the openings. So the wood must have swelled or something during finishing or something. But a little careful surgery with an exacto knife and they slid right in. I'm pretty happy with the way they came out.

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## trc65 (Nov 10, 2020)

Very, very, Cool!

Love the way it turned out. Very unique piece!

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## woodtickgreg (Nov 10, 2020)

There's the money shot! Very nice, well done sir.


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## DLJeffs (Nov 10, 2020)

Thanks guys. I'll try to get another shot tomorrow in the daylight to show the wood better. The figure in the panels came back nicely.


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## Gdurfey (Nov 10, 2020)

Wow, what a project. Ready for the next one?


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## DLJeffs (Nov 10, 2020)

Gdurfey said:


> Wow, what a project. Ready for the next one?



Heh heh, yeah, I'll have to start something. But with the weather turning I'll have to work in the garage most of the time so it'll have to be something that doesn't cover my garage in saw dust. A couple friends want a cribbage board so I'm thinking that's where I'll go. I've been tweaking a photo of a great horned owl so the lazer engraver will do it justice. Maybe an alternate to the quail.

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## T. Ben (Nov 11, 2020)

That is fantastic,great job.

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## DLJeffs (Nov 11, 2020)

Here's a shot or two of the lamp in daylight, unlit. I am really happy with the way the figure in the maple thins @Mike1950 sold me came out (thanks Mike). When I first sanded them I thought it was all gone. One other lesson learned for me is that mahogany comes in many colors and grain density. And you don't see it until you do some rough sanding. While I didn't have a lot of choices, I maybe could have better mixed and matched my mahogany to get a little more uniform look. One last lesson: the lamp shades can be the most expensive part of this whole thing.

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## Chris S. (Nov 12, 2020)

Very nice sir. That turned out great. As the maple and other woods age it is going to get even better. Can't wait to see next one.


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## DLJeffs (Nov 12, 2020)

Thanks Chris (and everyone else who followed along and gave me advice). Both sets of table lamps I built over the summer were fun projects that challenged my skills for sure. I have enough lamps now, have to think of something else.


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## Gdurfey (Nov 12, 2020)

DLJeffs said:


> Thanks Chris (and everyone else who followed along and gave me advice). Both sets of table lamps I built over the summer were fun projects that challenged my skills for sure. I have enough lamps now, have to think of something else.



well duh, new end table or nightstand to put them on. Seems obvious again.

okay, signing off......think Doug will be throwing things at me if I don't.

Thanks for these pics Doug, they show your beautiful work in a different light...pun intended.


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## Echoashtoreth (Feb 4, 2021)

DLJeffs said:


> Hope so. Backlighting those sliced agates was the trigger...and trying to figure out something to do with those gorgeous maple thins. Still trying to decide what's the best way to secure the agate slices in the cutouts. Leaning toward a simple silicon caulk or something like that. Open for suggestions.


I would use epoxy so it is more heat resistant.... add a wire brad or 4 just for safety sake


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## DLJeffs (Feb 4, 2021)

Echoashtoreth said:


> I would use epoxy so it is more heat resistant.... add a wire brad or 4 just for safety sake


Thanks for chiming in Sarah. I finished these lamps a few weeks ago. I decided to simply put a few small beads of two part epoxy to secure the agate slices in place. I made sure the agate slice was fully seated in the rabbet groove to ensure there wouldn't be a line of light showing around the edge of the cutout. Then I put 6 or 7 half inch long beads of epoxy, roughly equally spaced around the perimeter of the agate, making sure I got glue contact between the agate slice and the wood. I used 5 minute epoxy because bond strength isn't an issue and I wanted the glue to set up quickly so it wouldn't soak into the wood or leak around the agate slice. It worked perfectly. The agate slices are solidly attached, no glue shows anywhere and no light shines around the edges of the agate.

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