# starting another jumbo hollow form



## woodintyuuu

Finally got started today on this pc. @gman2431 , danny and i cut the blank for this one last year and showed the cutting in a thread, mabey he can link it here . this pc is 38 inches tall by 24 inches diameter and weighs a good 400-500 lbs was a bear to get up there on lathe without cody (where the heck is cody) Turned on lathe and the 5.00
toggle switch was bad , so we have to wait till am to fix it. The Blank is redwood lace burl. I will do a thread on this build from here . enjoy!


















OH PS @duncsuss we are gettin durn close to something i want to send to you. sorry so long but it has given me fits on finish and you deserve the best finish i can produce. I hope you agree cl

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 10 | Way Cool 10


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## Nature Man

Definitely want to follow this thread! Chuck


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## ripjack13

Oh me too!!


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## Kevin

I was going to post a thread on a similar project I'm just starting but I don't see the point now. We can just watch Cliff's and see the same thing.

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 8


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## barry richardson

That thing is a monster! Looks like you're gonna spin it with a drive spur?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## gman2431

Oh baby I remember that piece!!

I'm sure I can come up with the thread or some pics of the cutting.


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## Kevin

barry richardson said:


> That thing is a monster! Looks like you're gonna spin it with a drive spur?



I guess you got to have some razor sharp chisels to turn that behemoth on a small drive spur like that.


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## gman2431

Thats how we mounted the last big one was drive spur. 

Should be very safe, why y'all scared? Lol


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## Jim Beam




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## Mike1950

Hell I am skeered of it and I am 1200 miles away. Think though of how much dust I could collect on that VERY COOL lathe..........

Reactions: Funny 3


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## woodintyuuu

gman2431 said:


> Thats how we mounted the last big one was drive spur.
> 
> Should be very safe, why y'all scared? Lol


cody this one is the biggie , twice as big as last one lol


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## woodintyuuu

barry richardson said:


> That thing is a monster! Looks like you're gonna spin it with a drive spur?


yes till it gets in round , we will start with the chainsaw cuts , no scince in wasting wood, you know these knucklehead here will buy it .

Reactions: Like 2


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## Kevin

woodintyuuu said:


> cody this one is the biggie , twice as big as last one lol



Ohhh so THAT'S why you're using a 1" drive spur instead of the 1/2" . . . .

Reactions: Funny 2


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## woodintyuuu

okay heres the initial shaping cuts with a chainsaw, like i said lots of drops of righteous wood that are to valuable a resourse to waste, this is where those sweet bargain boxes of redwood come from stuff like this. Picture of danny (my helper) is in there for scale (like @DKMD said - everbody needs a danny!) he is a crazy good turner in his own right.

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## gman2431

woodintyuuu said:


> cody this one is the biggie , twice as big as last one lol



Last one wasn't scary until you let me try it!!!! Haha

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## gman2431

That's it I gotta sneak over there... Too much fun going on! 

Oh ps tell Danny I said hi.


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## gman2431

Here's the pics of cliff starting it.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 9


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## gman2431

http://woodbarter.com/threads/cody-and-i-cutting-up-giant-burls.18114/page-2

And the original thread.


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## Kevin

What model Dolmar ya got there CLiff? Looks like a 6400 - awesome saw.


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## Wilson's Woodworking

Oh this is going to be an amazing post to follow!
@Kevin by the way that isn't salt on the ground in the back ground. You can tell @woodintyuuu (Cliff) is a true Northerner! Out there in a sweat shirt and blue jeans.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## woodintyuuu

gman2431 said:


> That's it I gotta sneak over there... Too much fun going on!
> 
> Oh ps tell Danny I said hi.


cody we waited for you but your addiction to west side steel is encumbering your ability to make good decisions

Reactions: Agree 1


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## gman2431

woodintyuuu said:


> cody we waited for you but your addiction to west side steel is encumbering your ability to make good decisions



You're absolutely right.... I need some Huron water and sunrises over the lake instead of into to help clear that. 

Oh crap! My buddies from Indy just pulled in!!! Gotta roll the boats leaving!!


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## CalumetWoodworks

This looks awesome!!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## GeorgeS

Holy crap! I I I I, just damn!


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## woodintyuuu

alright so the next series of pictures is from after lunch , and takes the form from rough to semi -shaped, final shape will be made after the pc is remounted to the lathe by faceplate, which is where this group of picts ends









now most flat spots are gone and we start to think about faceplate application





starting rounding of bottom for flat faceplate , i am finding the spot where the plate can be on a level flat place









i have made a flatspot (not to be confused with wet spot) and am carving off the excess tenon with an arbortech prior to fitting the faceplate








Now we can clearly see the circle of wood around the faceplate, i am trying hard to center it by eye as close as possible, that is why i cut the flat area approx 1/4 inch bigger than the plate - it is easier to judge- i have not measured anything at this point and will probably only measure for depth and thickness of hollowing from here.





I am fastening the faceplate to the pc . I use a comination of hex headed self tapping screws 3 inch long and some mcfeelys square drivers 3 inch long they are backed out halfway and superglue is applied to screw and driven back home again.




hope you enjoy the thread and i will post more picts when i start to work more. 
This whole thread used up about 5 hrs now of my time and 2 hrs of danny help to make sure the pc wasnt gonna come off and hit me.

Reactions: Like 5 | EyeCandy! 2 | Great Post 1 | Way Cool 8


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## woodintyuuu

Kevin said:


> What model Dolmar ya got there CLiff? Looks like a 6400 - awesome saw.


nope @Kevin its a 7910 serious bad daddy saw not for babys hey!

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## NYWoodturner

Looking great Cliff!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Kevin

woodintyuuu said:


> nope @Kevin its a 7910 serious bad daddy saw not for babys hey!



Same case as a 6400 great saw. Those big Dolmars can devour some wood.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## El Guapo

Great thread, Cliff! I love watching the masters! Say, when are you going to come down south for a demo?

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodintyuuu

in april not sure of dates totally yet will be in houston though , we will try to get some kinda something together for any of the fellas that can make it mabey some central location to dallas and houston or ? I would be fun !!! @El Guapo

Reactions: Like 2


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## El Guapo

You got it, Cliff! You bring the burls and I'll bring the beers!


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## GeorgeS

Well I think I just made a wet spot!


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## Jim Beam

GeorgeS said:


> Well I think I just made a wet spot!



I did not need to read that....

Reactions: Funny 2


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## justallan

I'll be watching this one.
Great project, Cliff.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## duncsuss

Amazing


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## woodintyuuu

okay here is what went down here in the shop today untill lunch then nap!

the pc is now mounted on a different lathe that accepts the faceplate we like, 1923 oliver from gm tech plant , modernized a bit , complete with homemade plywood pulleys. 


 

ad the final sorta form is made you can see i have left a rather large area unturned to shape , this is on purpose and serves to dampen vibration during the hollowing phase. It will be turned to shape 
after the bulk of the pcs is hollow, we just have to bear that in mind .
next you se the steady rest , it is quite stout, and on the really large pcs there are two pcs mirror in design which sandwich the arms of the steady. on large pcs we use 9 arms, on a small one like this one we only need 4 or 5 as you can see


 



 



 

for all you nomenclature nuts yes they are aircraft flap follower bearings, bout 150 $ apeice, but luck for me there is maintainance facility some buds work at and well you know . Oh setting up the steady is a little fussy, if all the arms are not exact right the will cause a catch and that is not good about a thousand pounds of stuff on the lathe spinning now!!!


the last picture is of the forstner bit with the beginning of the drilling process starting with only the chuck The forstner bit is a full 4 inch bit and is serious torque there.


now i am getting ome of the material out of the neck section , this is the most intense section as i am very close to the steady rest and a large pc of spinning wood, the lathe is wagging round a little also through the intermittent cuts 



 



 



 



 

WHEW!
in the previous photo actually two back you can see where the steady has found its orbit with the continual black mark around. That area is also left about an inch proud of neck to absorb the bruising of the bearings and will turn off later. the neck is left very thick as it has a lot riding on it and will be dealt with later. These larger pcs demand a lot of thought and are methodical in the approach. oops ruins about 3000 dollar pc of wood, that we dont want.



 

homemade drill extensions this one will take us down to 22 inches . we will stop there for the night as danny is whining pretty hard!!!
this is how the pc will look until monday when we get back at it. It is wrapped because it will warp or worse crack if left in open

Reactions: Way Cool 9


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## El Guapo

woodintyuuu said:


> on large pcs we use 9 arms, on a small one like this one we only need 4 or 5 as you can see



It hardly seems worth doing a build thread for such a small piece like this!

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 4


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## pinky

What are those risers made from? Love the steady rest. Is that 1/2" plate?


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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> What are those risers made from? Love the steady rest. Is that 1/2" plate?


3/4 thick by 4 " wide


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## pinky

That is a serious steady rest. Are those risers 2 solid blocks of steel?


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## barry richardson

Outstanding thread Cliff! Thanks for posting it... I know what you mean about those big forstners, I ruined the tailstock on a 16 inch lathe with a 3 3/4 forstner..... a little too much lol......

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## duncsuss

I'm looking at these pix thinking "wow -- I've got the exact same tool handle on one of my gouges, I could do this"

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 6


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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> That is a serious steady rest. Are those risers 2 solid blocks of steel?


yes

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## Mike1950

woodintyuuu said:


> yes



I was wondering the same!! helluva Lathe !!!!!


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## pinky

A couple of nice pen lathes!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## gman2431

Mike1950 said:


> I was wondering the same!! helluva Lathe !!!!!



Think of how much stuff you could stack on it!!

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## Mike1950

gman2431 said:


> Think of how much stuff you could stack on it!!


 WOW-  Never thought of that!!

Reactions: Like 2


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## GeorgeS

You sir are the real deal! I worry about a twenty pound chunk of wood that cost me $60! I can't imagine turning something like that! How are you planning to dry a piece that large?


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## Tclem

Yeah I turned one a tad bigger than this yesterday. Start to finish. I figure I'll use mine as a garbage can as I have several sitting around. But hey I'm the best at everything. So glad I taught you something cliff

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 6


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## pinky

Cliff
Do you have some kind of hoist over those lathes or are you 2 just muscling them on? Any pictures of mounting procedures would be appreciated. I'm getting tired just thinking about it. Not for the feint of heart.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## NYWoodturner

Damn Cliff you are putting some serious work into this. You make it look much easier than it actually is. Hats off to ya man!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Jim Beam

You guys are pushing the limits! But.....

That is an amazing piece of wood! Where did you get it and how much did it cost?


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## woodintyuuu

Jim Beam said:


> You guys are pushing the limits! But.....
> 
> That is an amazing piece of wood! Where did you get it and how much did it cost?


from the west cost and second answer ALOT

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## woodintyuuu

man these sure are pretty shavings , wish i could use um somehow @Kevin YES SUPER sharp tools are the rule man

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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> Cliff
> Do you have some kind of hoist over those lathes or are you 2 just muscling them on? Any pictures of mounting procedures would be appreciated. I'm getting tired just thinking about it. Not for the feint of heart.


John mabey You just need to drive over here and help us for cupla days and you can see all in person, Plus we would enjoy your company and tell lots of lies. But yes we use engine lifts to pick up the big ones. you can roll the big wood on pvc pipe or gas line This one danny and i manhandled around- Danny made me change out of my crocs into real workboots though.

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## Tom Smart

woodintyuuu said:


> man these sure are pretty shavings , wish i could use um somehow @Kevin YES SUPER sharp tools are the rule man
> 
> View attachment 92464



Any chance those shavings could be used by someone who can cast them?


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## woodintyuuu

Tom Smart said:


> Any chance those shavings could be used by some who can cast them?


i would love that if possible , if somone wants to try id be gld to pack a box of um and give it a whirl.


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## Kevin

Cliff can I turn one of those on a midi?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Tom Smart

woodintyuuu said:


> i would love that if possible , if somone wants to try id be gld to pack a box of um and give it a whirl.



If it comes to be I would jump at some pen blanks and be happy to make a pen for you Cliff.


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## woodintyuuu

Kevin said:


> Cliff can I turn one of those on a midi?


whats a midi?

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Kevin

woodintyuuu said:


> whats a midi?



Someone who lives in the midwest? 

No wait. It's a very small lathe.

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## El Guapo

woodintyuuu said:


> whats a midi?


AHAHAHAHA!!! Comment of the year, right there!

Reactions: Funny 1


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## El Guapo

Cliff ain't got no time for no midi!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Nature Man

woodintyuuu said:


> man these sure are pretty shavings , wish i could use um somehow @Kevin YES SUPER sharp tools are the rule man
> 
> View attachment 92464


Perhaps you could put the shavings in candles. Chuck

Reactions: Like 1


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## duncsuss

woodintyuuu said:


> whats a midi?


That's the lathe used by shipyards to make the shorter masts front and back of the main mast. (Minis are used to make the bowsprit.) Only suitable for spindle turning.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Kevin

El Guapo said:


> Cliff ain't got no time for no midi!



So size really does matter?


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## woodintyuuu

here a cupla pictures of watching paint dry - which is what hollowing vessels really is!
slowly working down thru the neck section again it is thick and is intentional, have gone as far as possible with the 3/4 inch bar and now have inserted a 25 inch long 1 1/2 inch stainless steel bar with the tool jhole off center for obvious reasons.
Our hands are quite close to the neck and the steady rest , there is a picture of danny doing his thing , he is the short ugly one, and i am of course the rather handsome bearded one. 



 



 

do you notice the arrow that says depth- ah yes there is a purpose , it is where we always reference our depth measurements from . The natural edged rim is undulating and will not give a true depth if not taken at the same spot every time (i wonder how i know this one)

the hole is getting deeper and bigger now


 



 



 

another shot of watching paint dry



 

The bigger bar /we will switch again to a longer bar later

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## gman2431

Mighty fine job ole handsome bearded one!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Kevin

gman2431 said:


> Mighty fine job ole handsome bearded one!




You're half right.

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## woodintyuuu

Okay here we have moved to a long bar which is 1 1 /4 stainless steel. We use stainless for its toughness> I could give a disertation here on boring bars and materials, but that discussion is for another day and another thread if anyone is intrested? 



 



 



 
You can barely see the laser dot where the steady arm meets the steady frame there is also about 1 inch of clearance from the laser boom arm to the top center steady arm , i must constantly be aware of that or ii will not get true reading , the wall thickness is from the steady track out to the largest diameter of the pc is 5/8 thick , to give it a little warping room for final finishing. it is now lunch
and the most difficult section is behind us now whoo whoo. it is all downhill from here.

the longer boom and bar set up

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## pinky

How you clearing chips/ vacuum or blower?


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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> How you clearing chips/ vacuum or blower?


combination


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## CalumetWoodworks

For someone who only turns pens, and other smaller items, this thread is FACINATING!! I am in awe of the skill and tools used to achieve such a piece of art!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Jim Beam

What kind of RPMs are you guys running at?


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## barry richardson

That natural edge is gonna be the bomb!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## pinky

Looking good! Are you going to put it back between centers to turn the outside? Am I getting to far ahead?


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## woodintyuuu

Jim Beam said:


> What kind of RPMs are you guys running at?


oh about that fast -- seriously we turn it up till the big ole lathe starts to walking drive some shims under the feet if its still rockin we turn her down untill we feel safe . have no clue about my gouge grind angle or rpms or bevel angles or any of that bothersome technical engineer stuff . that is left best to guys like @duncsuss . his stuff actually fits together!!!! this here is just good ole cowboy butt woopin fun. Now in another thread i might comment on that sorta thing

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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> Looking good! Are you going to put it back between centers to turn the outside? Am I getting to far ahead?


get your butt over here now!!!!!! all things in due time grasshopper

Reactions: Funny 1


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## duncsuss

woodintyuuu said:


> his stuff actually fits together


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## duncsuss

woodintyuuu said:


> ... the wall thickness is from the steady track out to the largest diameter of the pc is 5/8 thick , to give it a little warping room for final finishing ...



If you're expecting it to warp a little, does this mean it's not fully dry yet?

I remember an earlier piece, you splashed thinned lacquer on the top, around the entry hole, to keep it from drying out faster than the thicker walls. Is that not needed with this shape piece?


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## woodintyuuu

duncsuss said:


> If you're expecting it to warp a little, does this mean it's not fully dry yet?
> 
> I remember an earlier piece, you splashed thinned lacquer on the top, around the entry hole, to keep it from drying out faster than the thicker walls. Is that not needed with this shape piece?


it will be a necessity to do that soon duncan we are now down 3/4 of the way hollow, and will soon be able to release the steady rest and turn the rim to true shape


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## pinky

woodintyuuu said:


> get your butt over here now!!!!!! all things in due time grasshopper



I wish you were closer, I'd be all over that offer!


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## woodintyuuu

Back at work and almost through hollowing - the redwood was a bit punky in the middle areas and wanted to drag down the boring bar instead of cutting nicely. I had to use an old redneck trick and fashion a collar out of pipe to slip over it. It is held in place by set screws. This fix gave us a bit more rigidity out over the rest past 30 inches . It really saved some time;









this is a cool view





Now you guys are gonna think this next pictures are a hoot - mabey? I could not see the laser dot around the apex of the bottom curve - so again a serious redneck fix - i clamped a mirror so i could see the dot on the backside downhill =that was fun for sure














I have flooded the surfaces that are puncky with slow dry thin super glue a relatively new product i am testing out for the manufcturer , on the dark areas there is over 32 ozs of glue

the pc is now removed from spindle and faceplate removed - remember how thick the neck is -tommorow that will change and thus improve the whole form





An because the mirror was in place i tried my hand at art photography - i know i suck

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## woodintyuuu

here are the last pictures of this thread until i begin the final hollowing process:
the work is now remounted on the lathe between centers via a jam chuck-not just any jam chuck - this one is made from FBE





i have removed the track for steady rest and started to fair the curve of the neck and shoulder - final thickness and shape will have to be done after pc is dry and done its warping thing





recess made in bottom where the screws went to the faceplate, i did not want to waste that height so i backcut up from bottom . center is about 2 2/12 diameter and will line me up for final shape and sanding later





Jam chuck: it is 12 inches long and goes from 8 diameter down to 6 inches and is made of low grade FBE. i might use it later if i get desperate, but it is probably gonna stay a jam chuck

this is the pc upside down with a bottle of super glue on it . that is a 1 lb bottle of glue and it is the third one used on this piece. it still has half left in this bottle





a parting shot for a while, hope you enjoyed watching as much as i did doing it thanks yall!

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## duncsuss

Does the jam chuck wedge in the neck of the piece, or does it go all the way down to the bottom of the hollow form?

I'd be worried if it wedges in the neck, too little pressure and it comes off the live center at the tailstock, too much pressure and the neck splits open ... of course, these things might behave different if you're not some amateur hack trying to make a hollowform for the first time


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## woodintyuuu

duncsuss said:


> Does the jam chuck wedge in the neck of the piece, or does it go all the way down to the bottom of the hollow form?
> 
> I'd be worried if it wedges in the neck, too little pressure and it comes off the live center at the tailstock, too much pressure and the neck splits open ... of course, these things might behave different if you're not some amateur hack trying to make a hollowform for the first time


No duncan it does not go all the way in just enough to hold the pc in place. as for to much pressure, it only wood man!!!

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## Tony

Last night I blasted through this whole thread. While I don't understand 75% of what's being talked about, thoroughly enjoyed the hell out of it! That's going to be one incredible piece!!!! Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## CalumetWoodworks

This has been one heck of a learning experience for me! Thanks so much for sharing!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## pinky

Is the glue spread inside and out or just out?


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## frankp

That thing is going to be gorgeous! You sir, are a much braver man than I. Just thinking about that thing spinning makes me want to pee my pants.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 2


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## woodintyuuu

pinky said:


> Is the glue spread inside and out or just out?


also inside


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## GeorgeS

That's gonna be gorgeous Cliff! Is this a commissioned piece or are you speculating with this one? If you have it with you in Baltimore I may or may not drool on it so I hope the finish is water proof!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## barry richardson

Thanks again for posting this Cliff. In my experience, super glue ( used in cracks and patches) shows up during finishing if the wood is not sealed first, and you're using thin super glue which will soak into the wood a ways I imagine, is this a problem for you?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodintyuuu

GeorgeS said:


> That's gonna be gorgeous Cliff! Is this a commissioned piece or are you speculating with this one? If you have it with you in Baltimore I may or may not drool on it so I hope the finish is water proof!!


 a little bit of both George


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## woodintyuuu

barry richardson said:


> Thanks again for posting this Cliff. In my experience, super glue ( used in cracks and patches) shows up during finishing if the wood is not sealed first, and you're using thin super glue which will soak into the wood a ways I imagine, is this a problem for you?


no barry the superglue soaking into the wood has never caused me a problem- its the excess super glue that changes the complexion of the finish . It will discolor the wood along a crack or patch for sure
but as you notice there is no consistent areas where the superglue delineates with no glue - But that said we will see and this may be the one that hoses me. when it is dry and sanded and finished we will see . That was a great question.


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## gman2431

Dang my man there must be some serious glue fumes floating around in there!!!

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 1


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## Graybeard

This thread is full of really good information. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## justallan

WOW! That about says it for me. Thanks for an awesome post and tutorial Cliff.
It seems funny that a lot of folks want to vacation in Italy, Hawaii, and Australia. I just want to go play at Cliffs house.

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## ripjack13

barry richardson said:


> Thanks again for posting this Cliff. In my experience,* super glue ( used in cracks and patches) shows up during finishing if the wood is not sealed first*, and you're using thin super glue which will soak into the wood a ways I imagine, is this a problem for you?





woodintyuuu said:


> no barry the superglue soaking into the wood has never caused me a problem- its the excess super glue that changes the complexion of the finish . It will discolor the wood along a crack or patch for sure
> but as you notice there is no consistent areas where the superglue delineates with no glue - But that said we will see and this may be the one that hoses me. when it is dry and sanded and finished we will see . That was a great question.



Bary or Cliff, What shows up during finishing? I'm a lil lost on what you are referring to. 

Also, Cliff, do you coat the entire surface with CA? I notice this one is not. I usually do it just so everything looks the same. I have not used sealer yet...but I'm still learning. You guys are great inspirations to watch...thanks to the both of you....

And this is a great read topic Cliff....awesome...I can't wait to see it finished.


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## barry richardson

ripjack13 said:


> Bary or Cliff, What shows up during finishing? I'm a lil lost on what you are referring to.
> 
> Also, Cliff, do you coat the entire surface with CA? I notice this one is not. I usually do it just so everything looks the same. I have not used sealer yet...but I'm still learning. You guys are great inspirations to watch...thanks to the both of you....
> 
> And this is a great read topic Cliff....awesome...I can't wait to see it finished.


CA tends to show up if ,for example, you fix a crack, and some of the CA soaks into the surrounding wood, when you apply a finish (other than ca) over it, kinda like regular glue does if not fully removed..


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## woodintyuuu

ripjack13 said:


> Bary or Cliff, What shows up during finishing? I'm a lil lost on what you are referring to.
> 
> Also, Cliff, do you coat the entire surface with CA? I notice this one is not. I usually do it just so everything looks the same. I have not used sealer yet...but I'm still learning. You guys are great inspirations to watch...thanks to the both of you....
> 
> And this is a great read topic Cliff....awesome...I can't wait to see it finished.


okay let me clear this up a bit, this wood was getting a little bit soft for the thinned down laquer trick i would normally use. Barry is right about superglue discoloring the wood near a crack, but i have found it to be a problem ONLY when the wood is a light color and darkens the wood. In this case redwood finishes darker than it starts and my feelings are you will never be able to tell. If i am wrong you guys will see it here as i plan to show the entire rest of the process in cupla months when the form is dry . I have been experimenting with a super thin Slow cure super glue, i like the results so far and used it on this application. It migrates deeper into surface before initiating drying, i think it will work real nice on punky stuff, I did about twenty hollow forms out of spalted beech this fall with this stuff and it allowed me to use wood i once could not because of crumble. i am excited.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## woodintyuuu

barry richardson said:


> Thanks again for posting this Cliff. In my experience, super glue ( used in cracks and patches) shows up during finishing if the wood is not sealed first, and you're using thin super glue which will soak into the wood a ways I imagine, is this a problem for you?


only used on lighter woods, then i would not repair the crack until i used the thinned down laquer application on pc and then fix the crack


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## ripjack13

Thanks Cliff.


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## justallan

Saw this and instantly thought of Cliff.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 2


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## ClintW

Wow! Must be turning a hot tub! Lol I think I would go through route of a chain saw mounted on the guide rail to get it in round. ALOT of wood to turn away there!


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## GeorgeS

Hey at least he's wearing his face shield! I wonder how often he has to sharpen his tool, every three or four revolutions?


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## woodintyuuu

soory for not showing all the steps but here is the pc done with the laquer, it needs to dry off little more before rubbing out but you can see the super glue earlier in thread did not affect the color of the finish. the detail around the neck is a shadow line i created with a burn teqhnique, looks like a necklace , the pc needed something , and the shadow line was it i thought

Reactions: Like 4 | EyeCandy! 8


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## gman2431

you've been busy up there!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tony

Dam that's purdy Cliff!!!!!!!!! Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## GeorgeS

Beautiful!!!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## bluedot

Outstanding!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man

Most incredible! How much does the final product weigh? Chuck


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