# sealing advice



## LemonadeJay (Apr 22, 2014)

So I was strongly encouraged by my wife to pick up my wood piles in our small yard because we have outdoor parties around the wood fired brick oven. I collected so much wood this winter from the ice storms around here. Dogwood, maple, sycamore, elm, etc. Etc...

I decided to cut some of the large pieces up which is most of the stuff so it is easier to move and stack in the garage. Unfortunately I did that after my wife had cleaned and swept the patio and furniture and now everything is covered in chainsaw dust.

My question, do most people just anchor seal the ends or is it better to seal all cut edges? I have so much wood here I might need to post some on WB.

Thanks in advance,
Jay


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## RayBell (Apr 22, 2014)

Jay, I am far from an expert in this, and offer this with mixed results, but I just coat the cut ends.


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## JR Custom Calls (Apr 22, 2014)

I'm also no expert, but I've not had any checking yet by just sealing the ends. I do see a lot of people coating all surfaces of burl and other highly figured woods, but I'm assuming this is more to do with no defined end grain (per se) as opposed to just being cautious.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 22, 2014)

Most of moisture escapes through end grain. I agree on coating complete burls and maybe other difficult to dry woods.


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## Schroedc (Apr 22, 2014)

For cut stuff I coat the ends, for roughed out bowls, forms, etc. I coat the entire thing.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Apr 22, 2014)

I generally just coat the end grain also. The only exception to this would be wood species that i know are prone to checking like fruit woods, FBE, etc... Figured woods or woods that will be in a hot place are also good to entirely coat as high temps can cause woods to check that normally don't have problems with checking.


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## DKMD (Apr 22, 2014)

Pith free and all checks gone then seal the end grain except for difficult wood(redbud, live oak, etc). Sometimes, I'll put the blanks inside a big cardboard box after sealing them if it's a wood that's given me trouble in the past.

I've seen people paint over checks, and that definately doesn't work.


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## manbuckwal (Apr 22, 2014)

No fool proof way, but when in doubt, coat the whole thing . I've had pieces that I considered "scraps" and tossed in a bin that never checked n didn't have any sealer on em and the piece I saved checked on me even tho it was sealed.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Kevin (Apr 23, 2014)

As several have mentioned, make sure the end grain is shceck-free before sealing. Then also seal ALL surfaces of species which are prone to checking and these include highly figured boards & blanks, boards & blanks that have highly contrasting coloration (not all such species need this but if you aren't sure better to be safe until you get accustomed to it), highly contrasted grain sections such as crotches of practically any and all species, and species where sap and heart can have divergent grain density such as pecan. 

But location differences, well more specifically RH and temperature differences also make a big difference. What gives me fits drying down here may not give you as much trouble up there. But my rule of thumb is down here, unless it's straight grained and plain jane it gets sealed. I'm not sure I saidf anything different than the others but I wanted to reinforce how important sealing the long grain on boards and blanks can be unless the wood is not prone to checking and is not figured.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## LemonadeJay (Apr 23, 2014)

Thanks for the advice. I will be covering the wood on all exposed sides.


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