# Couple more casting questions



## Gixxerjoe04 (Jan 6, 2015)

My first question is I've been told you need to stabilize after you cast but was wondering, obviously some woods will always need stabilizing and some wont. Is that still the case when you cast wood, everything doesn't need to be stabilized if it's casted? Didn't know if wood movement and casting can cause an issue.

Second question might be a dumb one. I know there are woods that will have smaller crack and maybe a ton of them to fill, i assume in some cases the resin won't make it in all of the voids you cant see. If you're quick with mixing and pouring, could you put your chamber under a vacuum real quick to try and suck it into the cracks then put it to pressure? I don't stabilize so didn't know if that's a fast process or real slow one but figured I'd ask.


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## kris stratton (Jan 8, 2015)

i think that there is a debate on stabilizing before or after casting,i do know curtis at turntex says to stabilize everything before casting,it is probly the best way (again im sure people will debate)but it does create a little more work when you have to clean the wood of the resin that has been baked on to the piece you want to cast.if you do not get it off then you have a good chance of seeing some purple colored resin in between the wood and your colored allumilite.i often will cast my blank and then trim the piece to reveal the wood and then stabilize,i have had good success this way.also if you have a piece that has minor cracks or small voids and you stabilize first then you will have a very hard time removing the cured resin to get a good casting .so i am in know way an expert on this stuff and if this helps you at all then good.as for the second question i think if you just warm your allumilite so it is at its thinnest and put it under pressure it should get into all the cracks,just have enough resin around the wood in your mold so the piece can suck it up.hope that helps?

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Jdaschel (Feb 9, 2015)

It is best to stabilize before casting. If done after, sometimes the blank can warp. I have had this happen to me before. The extra juice crap left over isnt a big deal. Just knock off the big pieces, the small ones go away when resin is poured.


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## JR Custom Calls (Feb 9, 2015)

If it warps when stabilizing, it's because there was moisture in the wood. 

I still think it would be a huge PITA to clean the bleed out from a Burl cap

Reactions: Agree 1


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## jetcn1 (Feb 9, 2015)

I always stabilize first . I have little to no bleed out in burl caps if the process is done right .


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