# Two new banjo builds



## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I’m in the process of building a couple of small banjos. One will be a banjo uke and one will be a mini 5-string banjo. The uke is for a friend and the 5-string will be a travel banjo for myself. I plan on posting the build process, which will be slow. I haven’t posted an ongoing project before, so this will be something new for me. The banjo uke will be a soprano which means a very short scale length (about 13 inches) the 5-string will be longer (I haven’t decided but somewhere between 17.5 and 20 inches).

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## ripjack13 (Apr 14, 2019)




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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I started with some wood I have had for several years that I bought at woodcraft. I think it is called Curupay, not a typical banjo wood but it is hard and dense and should fit the part. It will be the entire rim for the uke and the tone ring (the layer that the hide vibrates against) for the 5-string. I cut it into 1.25 strips.

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## ripjack13 (Apr 14, 2019)

@Arn213 
@Blueglass

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I cut the wood at 22.5 degrees making 4 octagons of the curupay and 2 more octagons of cherry wood. The 5-string will be cherry with the curupay tone ring. I glue four pieces together and let them dry. 


stephen45710 said:


> I started with some wood I have had for several years that I bought at woodcraft. I think it is called Curupay, not a typical banjo wood but it is hard and dense and should fit the part. It will be the entire rim for the uke and the tone ring (the layer that the hide vibrates against) for the 5-string. I cut it into 1.25 strips.
> 
> View attachment 164463
> 
> View attachment 164464

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I take the two halves and sand them on a flat board to ensure the two half’s mate perfectly. I forgot to take a picture of this, so the picture is from prior build. Then I trace my interior rim diameter and go to the bandsaw. Then, with the majority of the interior cut away I glue the half’s together.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

So at this point I have this.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I screw one layer onto a template I made with a circle cutting jig to the desires inside diameter. And routed the inside diameter.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

Once the inside is finished I put it in another jig I built to shape the outside. I trace the outside line, remove it from the jig and go back to the bandsaw.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

After trimming on the band saw it goes back on the jig and back to the router table to shape the outside diameter of the rim.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I started with an octagon and now have a layer that i can use with a flush cut router bit to shape the additional layers.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

I drill indexing holes to aid in assembly, trim the other layers on the band saw, and then use a pattern cutting bit to trim everything.

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## Rocking RP (Apr 14, 2019)

Very Interesting. I will be following your progress.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 14, 2019)

Progress

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## CWS (Apr 14, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> I drill indexing holes to aid in assembly, trim the other layers on the band saw, and then use a pattern cutting bit to trim everything.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## ironman123 (Apr 14, 2019)

Very, very interesting.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## barry richardson (Apr 15, 2019)

Real cool Stephen, never saw a banjo build 
before...

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Apr 15, 2019)

Oh this is really cool. The banjo is the one instrument I always wanted to learn. Keeping an eye on this one.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## Arn213 (Apr 15, 2019)

It is just amazing how builders have more than one way to get to their destination. There is no correct way or wrong way, it is how it makes the most logical, logistical sense to an individual building it, arriving at stages of how you feel comfortable going about your business!

Great post Stephen and keep us leaning forward in our seats- this is like being in a master class and looking at your method the old fashion way without the aid of a CNC.

@ripjack13 .............we really need a “rock fist/rock on/hand horn emoji ala “James’s Dio”!

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## ripjack13 (Apr 15, 2019)

Arn213 said:


> we really need a “rock fist/rock on/hand horn emoji ala “James’s Dio”!




: yourock : no space inbetween the parentheses and word...

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## Arn213 (Apr 15, 2019)

ripjack13 said:


> : yourock : no space inbetween the parentheses and word...







 Marc and for “those who rock, we salute you”! Thank you.

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## Mike Hill (Apr 16, 2019)

Sweet build. Can't wait to see it finished. I collect "rural mountain" banjers. I was in heaven at the collection at the Museum of Appalachia!!!! I've made and sold a few box ones, but never a drumhead. I want to make my sister one, so I'm looking on intently.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 21, 2019)

Spent some time yesterday on the router table. The flush cut bit rides along the center layer to trim the top and bottom layers. It always works better on the inside than the outside. Inevitably, I get some tear out when trimming the outside. Maybe one of you can offer a router tip.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 21, 2019)

This is the worst example of tear out. The tear out typically occurs at a end grain joint, like it did here. I don’t get too worried about it because I always veneer the outside of the rim. I use automotive body filler on all the imperfections to get the rim perfectly smooth for adhering the veneer.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 21, 2019)

One of the rims will have a copper veneer so I needed to shape the top of the rim before adding the veneer. I use a bearing guided round over on the outside and chamfering bit on the outside. This is functional so the banjo head is tensioned over a thinner strip of wood.

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## stephen45710 (Apr 21, 2019)

I cut a strip of curly sycamore veneer that will eventually get glued on.

Is there a way to reorder the pictures when I post them?

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## ripjack13 (Apr 21, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> Is there a way to reorder the pictures when I post them?



After you post, hit the edit option, cut the text that is the picture, 
[ ATTACH=full ] 164829 [ /ATTACH ]
It will look like that^^^^
Cut that entire sequence and paste it in the desired order you want.

I already did it to the post above....

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Funny 1


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## Mr. Peet (Apr 26, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> I cut a strip of curly sycamore veneer that will eventually get glued on.
> 
> Is there a way to reorder the pictures when I post them?
> 
> ...



I'm going to assume you forgot a word, either maple or English (sycamore maple or English sycamore).

Reactions: Agree 1


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## stephen45710 (Apr 26, 2019)

Mr. Peet said:


> I'm going to assume you forgot a word, either maple or English (sycamore maple or English sycamore).



Indeed. English sycamore.


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## stephen45710 (Apr 28, 2019)

This weekend I glued up both veneers, using different adhesives (seen in pics). I don’t have a vacuum press so I use some tape, cork padding, and hose clamps. I shaped the wood veneer top as previously described and used a file to blend the copper veneer to the rim contour.

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## T. Ben (Apr 28, 2019)

Very cool,I am looking forward to seeing it finished.

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## stephen45710 (May 6, 2019)

I haven’t had much shop time as of late. I’m working on the rim caps, which will be glued to the bottom of the rim to hide and protect the veneer edge. The copper rim will have a cherry burl rim cap and the curly English sycamore will have richlite cap with thin red and black veneer strips.

The cherry burl cracked during trimming; I mixed up some epoxy with copper dust to repair.

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## ripjack13 (May 6, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> View attachment 165736



Hold on....what is that yellow thing in the background?
I have no clue what it is but I love it....


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## stephen45710 (May 7, 2019)

ripjack13 said:


> Hold on....what is that yellow thing in the background?
> I have no clue what it is but I love it....



I have a couple of classics parked in my shop. I’ll start to include them in the background of some photos and see if anyone can correctly guess them...

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## stephen45710 (May 9, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> I have a couple of classics parked in my shop. I’ll start to include them in the background of some photos and see if anyone can correctly guess them...


Finally glued on the rim caps tonight. Probably not worth posting these pictures other than the background game.


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## T. Ben (May 9, 2019)

Green car,roadrunner?


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## stephen45710 (May 9, 2019)

T. Ben said:


> Green car,roadrunner?


Nope


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## Eric Rorabaugh (May 9, 2019)

Dodge Dart maybe


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## T. Ben (May 9, 2019)

Hmmmmm. Plymouth valiant?

Reactions: Great Post 1


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## ripjack13 (May 9, 2019)

Is that a chevy apache?


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## T. Ben (May 10, 2019)

That’s a ‘55 dodge pickup......I think


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## ripjack13 (May 10, 2019)

T. Ben said:


> That’s a ‘55 dodge pickup......I think



Dag nabbit, I was going to say dodge too. i was looking at a ton of pics on google.


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## stephen45710 (May 10, 2019)

Eric Rorabaugh said:


> Dodge Dart maybe


Negative


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## stephen45710 (May 10, 2019)

T. Ben said:


> Hmmmmm. Plymouth valiant?


A technically correct answer but not full credit


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## stephen45710 (May 10, 2019)

Nope


ripjack13 said:


> Is that a chevy apache?

Reactions: Like 1


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## stephen45710 (May 10, 2019)

T. Ben said:


> That’s a ‘55 dodge pickup......I think


I think you should be limited to one guess per picture post 

It is a Dodge. But not a ‘55


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## T. Ben (May 10, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> I think you should be limited to one guess per picture post
> 
> It is a Dodge. But not a ‘55


Fair enough.


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## stephen45710 (May 14, 2019)

The rim caps are basically done except a finish sanding. I am pleased with how they turned out. I think the cherry burl will present even better after it has some finish on it.

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## Eric Rorabaugh (May 14, 2019)

'57 Dodge PU?

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## stephen45710 (May 14, 2019)

Eric Rorabaugh said:


> '57 Dodge PU?


Yes it is.

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## Eric Rorabaugh (May 14, 2019)

Very nice. Any photos of the engine compartment? I'd like to get into your shop! I'm a sucker for classics.


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## stephen45710 (May 14, 2019)

Eric Rorabaugh said:


> Very nice. Any photos of the engine compartment? I'd like to get into your shop! I'm a sucker for classics.


I’ll post some engine shots as I make more banjo progress....

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## stephen45710 (May 26, 2019)

I cut the neck blanks from a large 3”x3” block of curly maple. Both necks fit perfectly within the piece of wood.

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## Rocking RP (May 26, 2019)

So cool to watch this build. Amazing to me.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (May 27, 2019)

I just saw this, very cool! and now I'm subscribed and watching too.

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## stephen45710 (May 27, 2019)

Today I made a jig that cuts the banjo heel. Started with a circle cutting jig and routed the circle that I mounted on the spindle sander. Then used the circle cutting jig again to put a mating curve onto a piece of plywood. I bolt the 1x2 in different locations for the two necks because the 5-string has a different center line than the ukulele. I have a wood block at the nut position of the neck so the neck is held down at an angle which will improve string action once assembled. Then I take the same jig to the router table and cut a relief where the tension hoop will hold down the head. I still need to cut the 5-string tension hoop relief.

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## woodtickgreg (May 27, 2019)

Man these are going to be beautiful!

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## stephen45710 (Jun 3, 2019)

I’m slowly plugging along. I cut the fret slots into the richlite fretboards and drew on the fretboard shapes. The ukulele will have brass and aluminum inlay as position markers. Once I decided on the design, I drew the shapes on graph paper and then photo copied to get exact replicas. I glued the diamonds onto aluminum and the squares onto brass. I haven’t decided on the position markers for the mini 5-string.

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## T. Ben (Jun 3, 2019)



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## tocws2002 (Jun 6, 2019)

In...finally... not sure how I missed this. 

This is a great thread!!!

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## stephen45710 (Jun 16, 2019)

Got the inlay done this weekend. I changed the design on the ukulele and I decided to use brass tube filled with aluminum rod for the mini 5-string dots. Both these instruments will likely travel out of the USA so I’m avoiding mother of pearl and exotic woods. I use a Dremel with a router base to route the cavities for the ukulele and a drill press for the basic dots. I set the inlay into a little bed of slow set black epoxy. Once it dries, I’ll file/sand the inlay flush and then fill gaps with more epoxy.

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## ripjack13 (Jun 16, 2019)

Looking good.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## T. Ben (Jun 16, 2019)

Those look great.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## stephen45710 (Aug 26, 2019)

I had some shop time this past weekend for the first time in 2 months. The only thing worthy of a picture was making these peghead veneers from hybrid call blanks purchased on this site. Not sure if any of these will make the final cut. I have another hybrid call blank I’ll process in the same way.

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## ripjack13 (Aug 26, 2019)

I like the middle one....


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## stephen45710 (Sep 2, 2019)

**I uploaded photos from my phone and I'm not sure why they are so huge, sorry!

Started this weekend making some more potential headstock veneers. Sliced up and book matched another hybrid call blank and some maple burl. Used carpet tape to stick them to plywood and then run them through the planer.





















I glued color and black veneers to the bottom of the fretboard. I like this detail on a finished banjo and doesn’t take any skill or cost too much. I profiled the two fretboards and thinned our or “scooped” the end of the fretboard near where it joins the rim. I play with my right hand over this spot and thinning the fretboard gives my hands a little more space. The uke is for a friend and he plays in the same spot.





I drill 1/16 pilot holes through two frets and use plastic rod as indexing pins during the build phase. This also helps hold the fretboard in position when it is time for gluing. The rod is cut below fret level so it doesn’t interfere with anything. The fret is wide enough that the holes are covered and become invisible.

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## DKMD (Sep 2, 2019)

How in Hades did I miss this?! Very cool!

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## trc65 (Sep 2, 2019)

Just found this as well. In for the long haul, great seeing this come together!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## stephen45710 (Sep 8, 2019)

My shop time is limited and I move slowly. This weekend, I selected and glued on the peghead veneers and added the fret position markers to the side of the fretboard.

After glueing on the colored veneers to the selected pegheads, I set the disk sander to the same angle as the peghead so the veneer mates cleanly to the nut. I clamp them in place and then drill 1/8 holes to fit dowel rods in the areas that will be cut off. This prevents the veneer from slipping during glue up.













After marking the locations for the side dots, I clamp the fretboard into a drillpress vice. The dots themselves are 1/16 plastic rod (the same material I used in black the locate the fretboard to the neck in the last post).

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## stephen45710 (Sep 22, 2019)

Today I worked on the pegheads and ended the day ready to shape the necks.

The first step was at the band saw. Traditionally, pegheads are cut perpendicular to the fretboard. I have a small bandsaw so this is the set up I use.



They are obviously rough off the saw, so I use a combination of spindle sander and sanding blocks to going up to 220 grit at this point.






One of the reasons I leave them in neck blank form so long is so I can clamp easily in a vise at this stage.







I returned to the bandsaw and finally cut the blank to the width of the fretboards. The next step will be to shape these necks!

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## stephen45710 (Sep 29, 2019)

This weekend I built a couple of jigs and started shaping the necks. The first jig allows me to clamp the necks to a cork-padded base to allow rasp work. The second jig allows me to trim the neck with a flush cut router bit to the fretboard profile.

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## stephen45710 (Oct 14, 2019)

This weekend I continued to shape the necks. I used a small half round file to shape the hand stop.



Here are the various tools I use to shape the neck.



I drilled the holes for the tuners. I use my bench top drill press because I can swivel the table to line up each hole. I clamp some wood to back to prevent tear out.



I'm thrilled with how this peghead is looking.



I sanded the Richlite fingerboard to 12000 and you can see how nicely it polished up. The metal is so shiny that it makes it hard to see the two tone dots.



I also built the dowel sticks. In use threaded rod that goes through the rim and threads into a barrel bolt in the neck. It will be obvious later. For now I cut a couple of sticks from the same piece of wood that I cut the necks. Then I sliced those in half and routed a 1/4 cavity and then glued them back together. I cut them a little long and drilled a hole at each end before slicing them in half to realign with a 1/8 dowel rod when I glue them back together.



These are the first 8” rims I have built so I needed to build a jig to use when drilling the holes around the rim. These holes will be used to to bolt the shoes to the rim; the shoes are used to hold the hooks that puts tension on the tension hoop. Again, this will be obvious later.




View attachment 172957

View attachment 172958

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## T. Ben (Oct 15, 2019)

P


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## ripjack13 (Oct 15, 2019)




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## stephen45710 (Nov 11, 2019)

It's been a while since I updated. Here is what I've accomplished, in my slowish fashion.

It is finally time to add the frets. I tap them with a hammer to seat them...



Then use an arbor to press the frets in.



Once all the frets are in, I made up a clamping caul and finally glued the fretboard to the neck.



Once the fretboard is glued on, I need to first file the edges flush to the neck, then bevel the fret ends. I use the tool to do both jobs.



Then I attend to each fret with a tiny file to dress the edges to makes sure they are smooth as you move up and down the fretboard.



You can see on the photo above that the fret slots are visible.



I mixed up a batch of 5-minute epoxy to fill those.
View attachment 173965

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## stephen45710 (Nov 11, 2019)

It is time to use the jig I built to drill the various holes in the rims. I layout the hole locations by using the groves in the tension band.



I clamp the jig to my drill press so it can't move and drill away. 



Once I move the jig, I want to ensure the backing surface will prevent tear out so I fill the holes I made with bonds and sand it flush,



I mark the holes in the neck heel and then use a drill that has a leveling bubble to drill them at the correct angle.



This is a mock up of the assembly. Before it is over, the threaded rod will be concealed in the dowel stick I built earlier.

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## ripjack13 (Nov 11, 2019)

I love seeing this come together.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## stephen45710 (Nov 16, 2019)

Today I took the rims back to router table and routed a 1/4” groove on the inside of the rims to add a little inlay stripe to the inside of the rim. This detail will not be visible once the head is on and the instrument is being played; but I like the hidden detail.

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## stephen45710 (Nov 24, 2019)

This post includes good news and bad news. The good news is that I got a lot done this weekend. The bad news is that I forgot to take many pictures.

The accomplished goal this weekend was to assemble the banjos at this point to make sure everything goes together properly, especially checking the string height over the frets.

I use zero glide nuts which I like because they can be replaced with traditional nuts if desired, but they provide great low action and consistent intonation. Procedure for installing includes sanding to proper width and height. Since I’m using nylon strings, I also needed to widen the string slots.




I drilled and tapped an extra rim shoe to use to hold the tail piece. This gets screwed to the ¼ threaded rod that goes through the dowel rod.



The mini 5-string will have a calf skin head. This involves soaking the head and getting it taught and then letting it dry over night.



The fifth string tuner gets install by drilling a hole and then using a reamer with the proper angle. It is a press fit.



The great news is that everything went together as planned and they sounded good.







Now, I have to dissemble them and finish sand everything.

The first step in that process was applying a lacquer to the brass that stops it was tarnishing.

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## stephen45710 (Nov 24, 2019)



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## ripjack13 (Nov 24, 2019)

Nice! I love that sound! Those look very good.

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## T. Ben (Nov 25, 2019)

I’ve followed this build from the start and it’s been amazing to watch as they’ve come along. They look and sound great.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## stephen45710 (Dec 11, 2019)

So, finishing sanding was quite a lengthy process. I decided to apply my finish to them at different times. This picture shows one neck with 4 dry coats of Tru oil compared to the unfinished but identically prepared neck. Ultimately, they will get 15 coats. This is the copper clad rim, but the inside is finishing nicely, and I love the cherry burl rim cap with oil on it.

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## Rocking RP (Dec 11, 2019)

absolutely amazing and beautiful work.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Dec 11, 2019)

Man those look suhweeeeet. 
I love working with truoil. The smell is good, but washing it off my hands is a pita...

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## stephen45710 (Dec 11, 2019)

ripjack13 said:


> Man those look suhweeeeet.
> I love working with truoil. The smell is good, but washing it off my hands is a pita...



I always wear rubber gloves. Helps with cleanup and keeps “human oil” off the wood as you handle it. Worth the convenience!

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## ripjack13 (Dec 11, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> I always wear rubber gloves. Helps with cleanup and keeps “human oil” off the wood as you handle it. Worth the convenience!



What kind of rubber gloves? The surgical/tattoo kind, or dishwashing rubber gloves?


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## stephen45710 (Dec 11, 2019)

ripjack13 said:


> What kind of rubber gloves? The surgical/tattoo kind, or dishwashing rubber gloves?



Disposable medical gloves. I’m struggling with inserting a link. :(

Reactions: Informative 1


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## stephen45710 (Dec 11, 2019)

Amazon link


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## ripjack13 (Dec 11, 2019)

stephen45710 said:


> Amazon link



Check that link. I think i fixed it.

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## ripjack13 (Dec 11, 2019)

Usually you have to get rid of this part of any amazon link.... ----> https://

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## stephen45710 (Jan 20, 2020)

There are both done. I took some glamour shots today. It was a fun project to build these together! I think they turned out nicely.

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## T. Ben (Jan 20, 2020)

Those are gorgeous,it was fun to follow this.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## trc65 (Jan 20, 2020)

Spectacular! I know nothing about banjos, but it has been interesting watching your work and learning.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Otterhound (Jan 20, 2020)

If you prefer to not drill locating holes in the fretboard through the fret cut , a jig that locates blind holes in the upper neck surface and the fretboard with pins can be used . This is how they do it at Martin .

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Maverick (Jan 20, 2020)

Very cool build! Beautiful work.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## stephen45710 (Jan 21, 2020)

T. Ben said:


> Those are gorgeous,it was fun to follow this.


Thanks. It was the first time I documented the process, it was kind of fun for me too!

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## stephen45710 (Jan 21, 2020)

trc65 said:


> Spectacular! I know nothing about banjos, but it has been interesting watching your work and learning.


Thanks! I learn a lot from woodbarter, so I wanted to contribute some how.

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## stephen45710 (Jan 21, 2020)

Otterhound said:


> If you prefer to not drill locating holes in the fretboard through the fret cut , a jig that locates blind holes in the upper neck surface and the fretboard with pins can be used . This is how they do it at Martin .


Thanks. That is obviously a better method. I think I'll scheme up a jig!


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## stephen45710 (Jan 21, 2020)

Maverick said:


> Very cool build! Beautiful work.


Thanks for the compliment!

Reactions: Great Post 1


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## Otterhound (Jan 21, 2020)

stephen45710 said:


> Thanks! I learn a lot from woodbarter, so I wanted to contribute some how.


Martin uses 3 pins , but 2 will work . Stagger them and try to place them so they will work with more than 1 scale . It is such a simple and effective process . Martin uses rolled pins , not wood .


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## dixdance (Mar 7, 2020)

I use 1/8" aluminum pins, so if someone has to plane off the fingerboard for a repair in the future, they don't ruin their plane iron

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## woodtickgreg (Jul 16, 2020)

I started watching this build when you first started. For some reason I stopped getting notifications about new post. Just got cought up today. Amazing build! And I liked the video of how they sounded, very cool  thanks so much for this contribution to woodbarter. Well done.loop

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## El Guapo (Oct 22, 2020)

I’m super late to the party and just saw this. Wow! Super cool, super impressive! What all instruments do you make?


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## stephen45710 (Oct 22, 2020)

El Guapo said:


> I’m super late to the party and just saw this. Wow! Super cool, super impressive! What all instruments do you make?


Thanks. I only make banjos. But in 8”, 11”, 12”, and 14” rim sizes and a variety of scale lengths.

Reactions: Like 1


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## eaglea1 (Nov 11, 2020)

SUPER late to this as well, but glad I did . World Class work Stephen. This makes me look like a wood butcher.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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