# Getting into hollow forms



## gman2431 (Dec 21, 2014)

Well, something I want to start doing is to dabble into the world of hollow forms. 

Not having much knowledge, beside videos I've watched, I lean to you good folks for some advise. 

What is a good all around hollowing tool that won't break the bank but isn't crap either?

Any must have jaws? 

Captive tool rest? Yah, nah or used in certain circumstances? 

Should I make One of those contraptions with the roller skate wheels to help steady the piece? Can't remember what those are called...but I've seen the how to's. 

I have a Rikon 12/16 lathe so I won't be doing anything crazy big on it if helps with answers for some of my questions. 

I appreciate any advise!


----------



## Mike1950 (Dec 21, 2014)

Steady rest- watch them give me a bad time.............


----------



## gman2431 (Dec 21, 2014)

Imagine that, one more word and I woulda had it! 

Thanks,Mike.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## SENC (Dec 21, 2014)

Getting out of hollow forms is the hard part. Unless you're aa leprechaun, of course.

Reactions: Funny 2


----------



## SENC (Dec 21, 2014)

Mike1950 said:


> Steady rest- watch them give me a bad time.............


I guess you have one of those laying around to protect some surface from dust?

Reactions: Funny 3


----------



## Mike1950 (Dec 21, 2014)

SENC said:


> I guess you have one of those laying around to protect some surface from dust?



Hell yes I have a steady rest but up north we callum pillows................

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1 | Funny 3


----------



## SENC (Dec 21, 2014)

Mike1950 said:


> Hell yes I have a steady rest but up north we callum pillows................

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## DKMD (Dec 21, 2014)

I'd suggest starting with a relatively large opening and avoiding squat forms with wide shoulders. You're openings will get smaller as you get more comfortable with the tools.

I don't use a steady very often unless I'm doing something taller than ~10".

You can make your own tools from cold rolled steel and HSS cutters if you can drill the steel. You can use CA glue to hold the tips or tap and drill for a set screw(better option in my opinion). There are a number of online tutorials for making homemade hollowing tools... I used one by Vaughn McMillan when I made mine, but I can't remember where I saw it. Might have been on familywoodworking.com?

I use a Sorby swan neck midi Hollower quite a bit for the shoulder area. I like it, but it seems like a lot of folks hate that tool... Might be able to pick one up lightly used if you can find a disgruntled owner somewhere. @woodtickgreg makes nice looking carbide tools... I don't own one, but they get rave reviews.

If you've got more questions, fire away!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## DKMD (Dec 21, 2014)

Here's a link to Vaughn's tutorial:

http://www.woodturnersresource.com/extras/projects/oland/index.html

Reactions: Way Cool 1


----------



## DKMD (Dec 21, 2014)

Here's a link for @Mike1950... He might get some mileage outta that neglected lathe of his!

http://www.woodturnersresource.com/extras/projects/drum_sander/drum_sander.html

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## gman2431 (Dec 22, 2014)

Thanks a ton, david! 

I made all my own carbide tools so these should be a breeze. 

Are you using a captive rest?


----------



## DKMD (Dec 22, 2014)

gman2431 said:


> Thanks a ton, david!
> 
> I made all my own carbide tools so these should be a breeze.
> 
> Are you using a captive rest?



I've got a captured rest that I rarely use and an articulated system(both from Monster tools) that I use quite a bit. Even with those tools, I still hand hollow most little stuff (under 5").

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Tim Carter (Dec 22, 2014)

I use a Sorby swan neck tool with a carbide cutter a lot, especially to do the final work inside a hollow form. I also use an "H" tool (see pic) with a 3/16" HSS cutter to do a lot of the work in the neck and shoulder areas.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## barry richardson (Dec 22, 2014)

I have a tool similar to Tims', it is great, especially when your starting out, should handle about every thing for a lathe your size. I rely heavily on the steady rest (skate wheel apparatus) for bigger hollow forms, couldn't live without it, but I turn a lot of nasty stuff. But they reduce the diameter of your turning capacity quite a bit, so not very usable on a 12" lathe, I wouldn't think a captive rig would be necessary or worthwhile for your size lathe either.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## gman2431 (Dec 22, 2014)

Is the arm on it for stability on the rest?


----------



## Tim Carter (Dec 22, 2014)

The arm keeps the tool from twisting as you cut inside the hollow form. It also provides you with another part of the tool to hold onto to guide it into the piece.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Mike Jones (Dec 22, 2014)

Cody, There aren't any special jaws needed, and the captive bar systems won't do anything more than can be done without them....but they make the physical part easier. (I am in my 70's and haven't felt the need quite yet)

I have done a lot of hollowing without a "steady" (skate wheel centering devise.) and that won't be among your most pressing needs to start. On projects where I needed one, I cobbled together a shop made steady rest from scrap that worked just fine.

For hollowing tools, you can spend more, and get less, than @woodtickgreg's tools. One straight shank and one "swan neck" and you will be able to get a long way down the road before you'll feel the need for something "other". Unless you are wild about tiny openings, get the bigger diameter bar, to keep "chatter and bounce" to a minimum.

(Looks like the steelhead fishing has been good!!)

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## gman2431 (Dec 22, 2014)

Awesome, it looks like I shouldn't have to get a bunch of stuff then. 

I really appreciate all the help!

Yes, the rivers have been very very nice to me lately. Went out this morning for a quick birthday fish and had a riot.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


----------



## The PenSmith (Dec 23, 2014)

I make a lot of hollow forms, but I don't care for or use carbide tools. I'm sure they have their place and some turners really like them but I find that a good tool steel has a better edge. Of course you have to resharpen tool steel frequently but that is true with any turning tool. I like the John Jordan tools and I have a full set of the large ones and some of the smaller ones, http://www.johnjordanwoodturning.com/John_Jordan_Woodturning/Tools_and_More.html.

I also like the Sorby scraper on their goose neck tool and the pistol grip handle. That said I use a captive bar system based on the Lyle Jamieson design but made by a friend of mine who likes to do metal work. Just starting out I would not recommend the captive bar system ( $$ ) until you decide if you like hollow forms. I think you will really like the pistol grip, it is very comfortable and makes control of the hollowing tool really easy.

I also like the steady rest product, I'm am a fairly aggressive turner and the wheels make a great way to keep a piece running true. If you have a wicked catch it can knock your hollow form off center and it is hard to hollow if it is not running true.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------



## jmlary (Jan 4, 2015)

Check out Lyle Jamieson site he sells a hollowing system and he also tell you how to make your own. I took some if his ideas and made mine, most of my capture rig I made out of wood . I used it for 5 years I up graded it to metal this last year . I bought most of the hollowing bars I have 3 or 4 different ones now. I do most of the rough hollowing by hand and finish with my capture system . I don't think I spent more then 125.00 to get started most of it was the hollowing bar .

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## elnino (Jan 14, 2015)

I built a set of 3/8 o1 steel and a set of 9/16 o1 steel. Drilled and added 10percent cobalt m42 cutters with CA glue. Total cost about 2dollars for short and 3.50 for bigger ones. Parts at enco also use 3/16 cutters for all but big straight. 

Hand hollow to start. No point spending all the cash if u don't like Hollowing

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## MikeMD (Jan 14, 2015)

Cody, you've gotten a lot of good advice that directly answers the questions you asked. I was waiting to reply because while I have the Monster Articulating Arm jig/rig...whatever...and it works great, what I wanted to suggest/ask you is: Have you done any two part hollow forms yet? If not, this basically involves taking a pieces of wood (maybe 4 or 5" square by 8-10" long), cutting it at the spot where the widest point of the hollow form would be, using two sided tape to hold them back together while turning the rough shape (and turning a tenon on both ends of the blank), separating the two sections, hollowing out each section (like a bowl), gluing them back together, parting off the tenon from the top of the HF, making your hole in the top, finish turning the HF, hiding the seam with an embellishment, and parting it off the other tenon. 

Sounds like a lot, but basically, it is turning two bowls and gluing them together. Let me know if you want more info (steps).

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 2


----------



## gman2431 (Jan 14, 2015)

Wow, Mike. Those are awesome! And to answer your question no I haven't even thought of a 2 part one. Thanks! I will definitely try one. 

As of now I got the 2 different styles of termite tools and am ordering the bigger .625 shaft for my one termite along with some unhandled swan neck tools. 

I've started out by doing some vase type projects just to get a feel for hollowing deep and it still gives me the eye sight which is good for my confidence. I didn't want to start by going blind after so far. 

Once I get my tools and a couple more vase type things under my belt I will eventually go for a style like you posted. 

I've also been using wet wood I've been cutting to get a feel for things. 

Everyone loves pics so it wouldn't be right if I didn't share but this is the first deep hollowing I've done so far. This one is almost done but tho is only pic I got and I'm just gonna let it slowly dry and warp all it wants.

Reactions: Like 1


----------

