# New Toy



## C.L. Boyett (May 5, 2017)

Never used these before. I've already noticed they say 600 RPM max. Any advice or pointers would be appreciated.


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## Az Turnings (May 5, 2017)

Don't go over 600 rpm

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 11


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## Tony (May 5, 2017)



Reactions: Like 1


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## C.L. Boyett (May 5, 2017)

Az Turnings said:


> Don't go over 600 rpm


I see a launch coming. 600 is the slowest I can go and my lathe has a tendency to slowly turn itself up. Weekly cleaning prevents this. Hmmm no more lazy I guess.


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## Steve Walker (May 5, 2017)

I haven't either, so I'm no help.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Az Turnings (May 5, 2017)

C.L. Boyett said:


> I see a launch coming. 600 is the slowest I can go and my lathe has a tendency to slowly turn itself up. Weekly cleaning prevents this. Hmmm no more lazy I guess.


To be totally honest I've gone way over 600, just have to make sure I'm not in the way of the bowl. I usually go at about 900-1000. If you want some advice of speeds may I suggest asking @Nubsnstubs

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## Steve Walker (May 5, 2017)

I will add this.... keep the tail stock up to the piece as long as possible, then your automatic variable speed becomes less of an issue.
Turn the bottom down to the profile you want, all the way in to the live center, then chisel and sand the nub away. There is more torque applied out at the edge of the bottom than in towards the center, so I suppose it's possible that you may be able to turn the nub away.......wear body armor as a precaution.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 6


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## DKMD (May 5, 2017)

I've used the somewhat larger Vicmarc version, and I personally consider the 'speed limit' to be a bit on the conservative side. Rim design comes into play when gripping a bowl in compression or expansion, so keep that in mind. You can also turn your own grippers to replace the ones that come with the jaws of you want something different.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 3


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## Lou Currier (May 5, 2017)

SHARP TOOLS! Light cuts.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 3


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## woodtickgreg (May 5, 2017)

Like the others have said, use the tailstock. I have a set and i like them.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## C.L. Boyett (May 5, 2017)

Steve Walker said:


> I haven't either, so I'm no help.


I'm sure it'll be fun.


Az Turnings said:


> To be totally honest I've gone way over 600, just have to make sure I'm not in the way of the bowl. I usually go at about 900-1000. If you want some advice of speeds may I suggest asking @Nubsnstubs


 There was no problems with them. Like Lou said, light cuts. The main reason I purchased them was to repair this bowl that the tennon broke off of and launched. It was a success. I can also tidy up my bottoms now. That didn't sound right. Lol

Reactions: Funny 8


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## Schroedc (May 5, 2017)

Put a piece of tape over the warning and move on 



Seriously though, it's all been said, keep the tailstock up as long as possible, sharp tools, light cuts.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## David Hill (May 9, 2017)

I have different chucks--
I use ones like those (from PSI for those chucks), and the Vicmarc jaws for those chucks, as well as a Longworth for the bigger stuff. Edge shape determines a lot, launches are easy to occur-- if not minding sharp tools & low pressure--using the tailstock is a must. Have started using a tailstock steady ( courtesy of @Nubsnstubs) to help. 
I also tried using long bunjees with the jaws to help secure the bowl with mixed results.

Reactions: Like 1


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## C.L. Boyett (May 10, 2017)

David Hill said:


> I have different chucks--
> I use ones like those (from PSI for those chucks), and the Vicmarc jaws for those chucks, as well as a Longworth for the bigger stuff. Edge shape determines a lot, launches are easy to occur-- if not minding sharp tools & low pressure--using the tailstock is a must. Have started using a tailstock steady ( courtesy of @Nubsnstubs) to help.
> I also tried using long bunjees with the jaws to help secure the bowl with mixed results.


I've used them a couple of times with no problems. Definitely have to keep tools sharp. I can see a second or even a third chuck in my future. It's time consuming to switch things around all the time.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Nubsnstubs (May 11, 2017)

David Hill said:


> I have different chucks--
> I use ones like those (from PSI for those chucks), and the Vicmarc jaws for those chucks, as well as a Longworth for the bigger stuff. Edge shape determines a lot, launches are easy to occur-- if not minding sharp tools & low pressure--using the tailstock is a must. Have started using a tailstock steady ( courtesy of @Nubsnstubs) to help.
> I also tried using long bunjees with the jaws to help secure the bowl with mixed results.




Thanks for the plug, David. 

Cameron, if you have seen any of my videos, you should come to realize that the TSS is a better way to finish your forms than using the jaws you posted in the first post. Now, that said, using the jaws in combination with what I use is a 100%+ guarantee you will complete your piece without launching it. Having the ability to work between centers is the right way to go any time, especially at the very end. With that said, it's no guarantee that you won't punch through the bottom. It won't be the fault of the tool. BTDT! .. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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