# Question Of The Week... (2014 Week 12)



## ripjack13 (Mar 15, 2014)

Howdy,
This is a new weekly series of questions topic for everyone to join in on the discussion. Some of the later questions may have a poll, and some will not.

_Don't be shy now, go ahead and post an answer and vote in the polls....

This QOTW was suggested by Sprung!
_

*What are your favorite tips for achieving a great finish? *

*

**Rules**
There is no minimum post requirement*

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Mar 15, 2014)

Take it to the body shop and have my buddy spray it with clear coat.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Funny 3


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 16, 2014)

Get finishing area as dust free as possible (impossible in my shop). Make sure all sanding is done, I close my eyes and run my hands over everything and judge by touch if anything needs more sanding, as well as by eye. Have all supplies at the ready. Test the finish on a piece of scrap from the same project to see if you like the way it looks. Plan how you will apply the finish, bottom first, then sides and top? Etc. I could go on and on, somebody else jump in here.......

Reactions: Like 3


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## Mike Jones (Mar 16, 2014)

Select your finish based on the end use of your project.
Select your finish before you start your project.
Buy the best sandpaper money can buy (usually have to order online)
Use sandpaper as though someone else is paying for it.
Remember that finishes MAGNIFY flaws, not hide them.
Really good finishes take time and attention to detail, don't give up too soon.

Reactions: Like 4


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## Schroedc (Mar 16, 2014)

Patience. Nothing will wreck a great finish faster than hurrying up. I've had to work hard to teach myself it takes a long as it takes and no amount of wishing will make it go faster.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 4


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## Kevin (Mar 16, 2014)

It's too bad there's not a way to do the finish first, so that if you're not happy with it you can just forego the build. 

_Well that finish turned out like crap. I'm not gonna build it._

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Mike Jones (Mar 16, 2014)

Kevin said:


> It's too bad there's not a way to do the finish first, so that if you're not happy with it you can just forego the build.
> 
> _Well that finish turned out like crap. I'm not gonna build it._



Stabilizing pen blanks is kinda like that...innit?

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Blueglass (Mar 16, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Take it to the body shop and have my buddy spray it with clear coat.


I've been thinking about that route. Have you ever put an oil finish on first to pop the grain and then had clear shot over that?


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## Kevin (Mar 17, 2014)

Blueglass said:


> I've been thinking about that route. Have you ever put an oil finish on first to pop the grain and then had clear shot over that?



No. Can you shoot clear coat over oil? Seems like since oil never eally dries that would be a problem but I don't have a clue I'm pretty much a finish neanderthal.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike Jones (Mar 17, 2014)

Blueglass said:


> I've been thinking about that route. Have you ever put an oil finish on first to pop the grain and then had clear shot



The solvent in some clear coatings (Lacquer thinner, Acetone, Toluene, etc.) will lift an oil based finish. An oil finish is not required to "pop the grain" however, so if you want to do something like shoot an automotive clear coat, you could try that over a lacquer based sealer. If you have already put an oil based finish on something and would like to try the automotive clear coat, shoot it with shellac first.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Mike Mills (Mar 17, 2014)

If you use rattle can finish a lot you may want to make a turntable. Somewhere on the site is a pic of a honing station I made. For about $14 you can get a garage door motor, mine is 74 rpm. Make some home-turned painters points, a piece of newspaper to protect the diamond plate and you are ready to shoot. About 1.25 revs per second gives me no drips, runs, etc. I only use it with at least 6" diameter and above but works fine. Too small a diameter (like a bottle stopper) may allow for runs.


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## APBcustoms (Mar 19, 2014)

I'm bringing up a new one. Liquid glass is a two part finish that is mixed together than evenly spread on the wood it'll have bubbles and probable some uneven spots do take a blowtorch to it and it will imediately smooth it out. This finish is best for flat work and will be my choice of finish for my table tops


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## jmurray (Mar 19, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> I'm bringing up a new one. Liquid glass is a two part finish that is mixed together than evenly spread on the wood it'll have bubbles and probable some uneven spots do take a blowtorch to it and it will imediately smooth it out. This finish is best for flat work and will be my choice of finish for my table tops


I've used that pour on epoxy, when do you heat it up? I've had mixed results and never heard of putting a torch to it


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## APBcustoms (Mar 19, 2014)

jmurray said:


> I've used that pour on epoxy, when do you heat it up? I've had mixed results and never heard of putting a torch to it



Well you wanna use a credit card to apply the finish evenly and as soon as the piece is covered you torch it and what that does is bring the bubbles to the top and it smooths the finish

Reactions: Like 1


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