# Finish on stabilized knife handle



## Spinartist (Jun 10, 2018)

Oh great knife making Guru's. I just replaced a wood handle on a vintage Kutmaster cleaver using curly camphor that was stabilized by @rocky1 for me and I plan to replace handles in several other knives.
What finish do y'all recommend on my completed stabilized handle?? I plan to use them a lot in my kitchen so it will have frequent washings.
Photos to come if they ever get off my phone & onto computer...


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## ripjack13 (Jun 10, 2018)

You can post em up from your phone Lee...

Reactions: Agree 2 | Funny 2


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## Spinartist (Jun 10, 2018)

ripjack13 said:


> You can post em up from your phone Lee...




Marc... That's why we keep you around, you're a dreamer...

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 8


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## ripjack13 (Jun 10, 2018)

Ah...you're an old school flip phone guy, right?


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 10, 2018)

His phone is probably a rotary dial, lol.

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 5


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## Spinartist (Jun 10, 2018)

ripjack13 said:


> Ah...you're an old school flip phone guy, right?




No. Got an Android.
I don't do many web sites on phone. Major PIMA IMO.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


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## rocky1 (Jun 10, 2018)

I'm gonna guess, Tru Oil finish, hand rubbed to perfection to fill all open pores, then buffed back a little with 0000 steel wool, just to kill a little of the sheen.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## JR Parks (Jun 10, 2018)

Heck Rocky without pics its probably Home Depot pine and he should just paint it!!

Reactions: Funny 6


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## rocky1 (Jun 10, 2018)

I gotta give him this one, since I stabilized the scales for him! Beautiful Camphor!!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## therichinc (Jun 10, 2018)

Normally for stabilized woods of medium to darker colors. I will belt sand 220, then 400, then hand sand with sanding sponges from fine, ultra fine, and micro fine. Then buff on buffer with pink rogue. For lighter colored woods I will do same, and I have a buffing wheel I keep in a plastic bag so that no dust or anything can get on it, and its also pink rogue. I buff really lightly on lighter colored woods again pink rogue only. Sometimes for lighter colored woods I will do all sanding then coat 1 or 2 times with renaissance wax before doing a light buff.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## NYWoodturner (Jun 11, 2018)

Rocky was dead on with the Tru oil. Multiple thin coats are better and will dry faster between coats.

Reactions: Like 3 | Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Jun 11, 2018)

Spinartist said:


> No. Got an Android.
> I don't do many web sites on phone. Major PIMA IMO.



Change your forum style to WBv2.... down in the left hand corner of any page here.
That gets rid of the banner up top and opens up the screen to see more.






Then, click, upload file under the post box, choose files, then either gallery images or camera depending on your phones software.



 


Choose a picture by tapping on it.
Then click "full image."
If you want to choose to post more than one pic, choose "insert every" full image...

It should be easy as that. I have a android phone too. If you need help, you have my number. I'm always around....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## TRfromMT (Jun 11, 2018)

Rocky's pretty much covered this one.... Tru Oil, lots of thin coats, buffed every few coats with 0000 steel wool. 

One thing I do after the final buff is to use plain ol' carnuba (liquid) car wax. That evens out the sheen where you maybe got too heavy or missed a little area with the steel wool.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 2


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## Foot Patrol (Jun 11, 2018)

My process is a little different. If the wood has been stabilized and has small pores, I will belt sand and shape the handle with a 60 grit belt and then progress to 220 and 400 like Rich. I then hand sand starting back at 220 grit but staying away from the tang if a full tang. I will then progress as follows: 320, 400, 600, 1000 and finish at 1500. I will then buff with white rouge. 

I typically do not use true oil unless the stabilized wood has large pores as the stabilizing material gives a great polished look after buffing. If I have large pore wood, I use the same process above and stop hand sanding at 600 grit. I will apply several thin layers of true oil to seal the pores. Once dry, I will step back and start hand sanding at 400 grit and proceed up to hand sand at 600 and 1000 grit followed by buffing with either pink or white rouge.

Reactions: Informative 3


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## rocky1 (Jun 11, 2018)

Back when I was doing gun stocks Lee, after the Tru-Oil I'd use a cheap furniture polish, one that would cause waxy buildup, Dollar Store/Wally World cheapy, and finish with that. And, when I said hand rubbed above, I literally use no rag to apply, rub Tru-Oil in and finish with wax with my fingertips. It's easier to work both into the pores, and you don't give up any to the rag. It fills a little quicker. Both ends of that, wiped and lightly buffed with a soft cotton rag, old Flannel Pajamas is da bomb. 

If you really want water proof, find some silicone gun wipes, and wipe it down good with that after you're all done, but that and the cheap wax combined will bring your sheen back.

Reactions: Informative 2


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## Spinartist (Jun 13, 2018)

woodtickgreg said:


> His phone is probably a rotary dial, lol.




FIGURED IT OUT...

Reactions: Great Post 1 | Funny 2


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## Spinartist (Jun 13, 2018)

Sorry again fer the crappy picts. I looked at new phones yesterday & found one with good close up camera!! Will get it as soon as I figure out how to save what's on my current phone.
I still need to reshape & resharpen the edge. It shaves hair now but the edge profile need work. I'm leaving the blade's sides as they are. @rocky1 , thanks again fer the stabilizing treatment!!
Did 3 coats of c/a glue then sanded to 600 grit & spray polyurethane finish. Malachite fill on one side.

Reactions: Like 4 | EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 2


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## JR Parks (Jun 13, 2018)

Good looking Lee. I think that can be classified as flatwork - so you have made the grade!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## rocky1 (Jun 14, 2018)

SWEET!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Robert Baccus (Jun 30, 2018)

Might want to avoid silicone products--it will contaminate anything it touches and plays hell with many film finishes--has played hell with most body shops for sure.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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