# Turning tool handles



## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2014)

This is not the most complete detailed how to as far as tutorials go, but it will give some basic information on how to make your own tool handles. This is how I like to make mine, There really is no right or wrong way to make them and everyone has their own way of doing it. These are some older pics but the info is still good, imo.

So the first thing you need to make a handle is some hard wood. Just about anything will do, maple, ash, walnut, cherry, osage, hickory, well you get the idea.




I chose to use walnut because I had a large piece that I was going to use for a bowl but it checked pretty good when it dried because I forgot to seal it, oops. But I got quite a few tool handles out of it. I just marked the checks with a sharpie and cut around them. A band saw was the tool of choice for this. 



Next thing is to turn your handle, I mounted it in a chuck on one end and used a live center on the other. The reason for this is so I could move the tail stock and live center out of the way to work on the ferrule end and then slide the tail stock back in place to perform other operations and still be centered and stable.
I turned this entire tool with one chisel, a curved square carbide chisel. When the work is done I will just part it off at the chuck end. But before I do that I will start the hole for the chisel to keep it straight and centered, then I will finish it by hand.




For the ferrule I just use a piece of copper pipe, in this case for a 1/2" chisel I used 1" pipe. I cut it with a Pipe or tubing cutter to not distort it. It cuts quick and very clean. Then I file the burr off the inside and sand it down a little to give it tooth for the epoxy to stick too. Measure the id, about an 1 1/8" 



I then turn a tenon on the handle to a little over the measured diameter of the pipe copper ferrule. I can then sand down to a snug slip fit. This is where being able to move the center out of the way and test the fit comes in handy.




Here's the ferrule epoxied on. And you can see the center is back in place, this way I can sand the ferrule and the whole tool in preparation for applying the finish. I fit the tenon to the ferrule, not the ferrule to the tenon. It is easier to cut wood than metal. The excess tenon will be trimmed on the lathe up to the ferrule. This will be a very strong ferrule and handle.



So here we are all sanded up and the finish applied, I just used a wipe on polly and coated the copper ferrule as well so it does not oxidize. The only thing left to do at this point is dull the finish with some 0000 steel wool, trim the tenon back, and start the whole for the tool tang.



Voila! A quality turned tool handle with materials sourced on the cheap. This is one of my earlier tools when I first started making them. This one happens to be a stainless steel full size round cutter, this one is mine!




Here you can see the tenon trimmed up and how the tool fits. I use a razor blade to smear the epoxy squeeze out over the end of the wood to seal it.

 So I hope this will give some insight on how to make your own handles, especially using copper pipe for the ferrules as you can usually find it or buy a short piece that you can make a bunch of ferrules out of cheaper than buying brass ferrules and they are just as strong. Everyone has their favorite shape or style of handle that they prefer, this is the shape I like as I like my handles long and I like to grip them in different areas. I also like them long for balance, leverage, and I like them fat around the tool tang for strength and to help cancel vibration. This tutorial is probably not all inclusive but it should give enough of the basics for anyone to have some fun making their own handles and saving some money doing it.
Greg

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## Mike Jones (Dec 25, 2014)

Nice job! Nice handle! I think that the most critical part of making a handle, is boring/cutting the hole for the tool shank. I like to start with a square blank, find the center, and drill the hole first. This way, the live center cone will center the blank even if the mark or drill drifted off a bit. I've never made a handle for a square-shank tool.

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## woodtickgreg (Dec 25, 2014)

Mike Jones said:


> I've never made a handle for a square-shank tool.


Mike, the shank of my tools are turned round so all you need to do is drill a round hole and epoxy it in. Only the body of the tool is square. But the advise about drilling the hole and then using the center is good advise.


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## ripjack13 (Dec 25, 2014)

Nice write up Greg! Thank you for this.....

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## ripjack13 (Mar 17, 2019)

Obvious bump for easy finding....

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## Tony (Mar 17, 2019)

Never saw this before, good stuff my brother!


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## B Rogers (Mar 17, 2019)

What's the best way to bore the hole for mounting? I always struggle with wobble when chucking up a spindle that's very long at all. Drill press maybe?


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## Barb (May 16, 2019)



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## rocky1 (May 17, 2019)

B Rogers said:


> What's the best way to bore the hole for mounting? I always struggle with wobble when chucking up a spindle that's very long at all. Drill press maybe?







Mike Jones said:


> Nice job! Nice handle! I think that the most critical part of making a handle, is boring/cutting the hole for the tool shank. I like to start with a square blank, find the center, and drill the hole first. This way, the live center cone will center the blank even if the mark or drill drifted off a bit. I've never made a handle for a square-shank tool.



 That's exactly how I turned mine. Simple, easy, no wobble. Used a pilot point drill bit in my tailstock chuck to drill my hole, they track a little truer. Pull the chuck, replace with live center, and turn; there's really no way to find wobble in it.

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## Barb (May 17, 2019)

rocky1 said:


> That's exactly how I turned mine. Simple, easy, no wobble. Used a pilot point drill bit in my tailstock chuck to drill my hole, they track a little truer. Pull the chuck, replace with live center, and turn; there's really no way to find wobble in it.


I love how you follow up your explanations with a link so there's no question about what you mean. Thanks :)

Reactions: Agree 1


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 6, 2020)

I made a couple more tool handles today so I though I would add them to this thread.
Mounted up a piece of paduk from woodcraft. Way longer than I usually use.


 
Rough turned round. Notice that I use a chuck on one end.



I use the chuck so I can back off the tailstock and check the fit of the ferrule, this is just a 3/4" copper pipe coupling cut in half. Inside diameter is 7/8"


 
Almost there, nice to be able to slide the tailstock back and forth as needed. Having the other end held in a chuck allows this.



And here the ferrule is 5 minute epoxied on. I wipe off any excess before it cures.


 
Using the chuck also allows me to drill the hole for the tool shank. I like to do this after the ferrule is epoxied on. I run the full length of the bit, backing out several times to clear the chips so it doesn't bind up. I run the lathe very slow, about 100 rpm.


 Sanded through the grits to 320, friction finish and abrasive wax as the finish.


 
Theres enough left for another short handle.


 
I just cut it free with a Japanese pull saw.

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## woodtickgreg (Apr 6, 2020)

I made some disc sander for my old lathe, they just fit the rikon midi.
This is a fine grit, 120 ish. I flush the end with the ferrule. And sand the cut end smooth as well.


 Flush sanded end.


 Same for the other end.


 5 minute epoxie to glue the tool into the handle. I use a dowel to get the epoxy spread well in the hole, then coat the tool shank also. Push in slowly while twisting back and forth. Then hold it while its bottomed until the epoxy sets. If you dont hold it in hydraulic action can push it out before it cures.


 Voila! A new turning chisel.

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## woodtickgreg (Apr 6, 2020)

I forgot to show what I use for ferrule, just 3/4" copper pipe couplings cut in half for the mid size tools. I also use a round file to clean up the burs on the inside and I clean up the ends on the disc sander.



I did another handle right after the last one. This is a little more realistic on the length. Keeping it short chatters less.



I got 2 done this afternoon.



Handles are quick and fun to make. And you can make them as you like. I make them to be comfortable in my hand so I can get a good grip on them. I also make the grip part long so I can change hand position. This is my favorite shape.

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## tocws2002 (Apr 6, 2020)

woodtickgreg said:


> I forgot to show what I use for ferrule, just 3/4" copper pipe couplings cut in half for the mid size tools. I also use a round file to clean up the burs on the inside and I clean up the ends on the disc sander.
> View attachment 184261
> I did another handle right after the last one. This is a little more realistic on the length. Keeping it short chatters less.
> View attachment 184262
> ...



Nice looking handles, thanks for showing the progress pics, I need to make several for the carbide tools I have that are currently handle-less.

-jason

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## woodtickgreg (Apr 7, 2020)

I'm going to add another one here because it was a little different process because it was so long.
I started with a figured piece of IRW. It's very dry as it's been in my shop for 7 or 8 years. Its approx 25" long 2"x2"


 Its mounted the same as the others, churcked on one end and center drilled and a live center on the other end.


 I was a little concerned with this figure and whether it would be strong enough on the business end.


 I ended up not turning it in this orientation, with it being chucked I was able to remove it and flip it around.


 This wood is very hard and a long blank. It was chattering really bad so I ended up putting a steady rest on it and wow what a difference that made.


 I moved the steady rest closer to the end for drilling the large 1/2" hole in the end, it really helped to keep it centered and running smooth. I moved it back to the middle after drilling the end to finish up the rest of the shaping.
I drilled it after the 1" copper pipe fitting was epoxied on. This is a large tool so it needed a larger ferrule. 


 Sanded through the grits to 400 this time, was almost polished before I put the finish on. But here it is with several coats of friction finish and wax.


 Beautiful wood and figure. Smells really nice when you work it too.


 I ended up filling this spot with a lot of CA, mostly just for cosmetics. It wont effect the strength of the tool on the end of the handle. Nice figure on this end too!


 32" long end to end. You want a really long handle on a hollower like this for leverage.

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## Eric Rorabaugh (Apr 7, 2020)

Very nice

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## Nature Man (Apr 7, 2020)

Very helpful demo! Some parts can be applied to most spindle turning. Chuck

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## tocws2002 (Apr 7, 2020)

That's a gorgeous piece of wood and handle!

Thanks for adding the additional process/steps.

-jason

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## ironman123 (Apr 8, 2020)

Best looking handle I have seen on here. Lots of character.

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