# Making straight razor scales



## davebug

A few people asked how I make scales for straight razors. This is my first tutorial so be kind, here we go. 

First I sketch out a shape for the scales laying the razor down next to them to see how it will fit together. 

[attachment=24220] [attachment=24221]

Next I use double sided tape to stick the template to the scale material that is about ⅛" thick. Which is then in turn stuck to another ⅛" piece of scale material. I have tried many different ways to stick these two scales together, it has to hold tight but release easily so you don't break one when separating them. The easiest way I have found is to use 3 strips of double sided mounting tape leaving a gap in-between each so that later you can slip a razor blade in to separate the scales.

[attachment=24222] [attachment=24223]

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I then sand down to the template until I am happy with the outline shape. At this point I also drill the holes where the pins will be. Most straight razors use 1/16 pins. 

[attachment=24225]

Followed by sanding the edges to round them off and give the scales their final shape. 

[attachment=24226]


When I am happy with the shape I use a knife to separate the two scales. Some times the tape cooperates some times it does not, but use a razor, sandpaper, and acetone to remove whats you can not peel off. Make sure the inside of the scales are smooth and flat if you gouged it at all while removing the tape. 

[attachment=24227]


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## davebug

I then sand the scales smooth to around 600 grit and give them a wipe down with acetone. I use double sided tape (scotch kind) to tape them to a little upside down T I made out of a paint stick. 

[attachment=24228]

I cut the fingers off of some nitrile gloves and use them for the next part. I start with thin CA glue adding a few drops on a scale and rubbing it round with a gloved finger tip. I do 3-6 coats letting it dry in-between each. After you do the top coats make sure to flip the scales over and get the bottom as well. Some times you end up gluing the scales to the tape that holds it on the T, just use a razor to gently cut it away. Here are the scale after the initial coats of thin CA. 

[attachment=24229]

Give the scales a light sanded with 320 in-between each batch of CA followed by a wipe down to make sure no dust is left. After the first thin coats I switch to medium CA, I do two layers of medium (one round) followed by a sanding. I do between 5-15 rounds of medium CA. Every once in a while before my pin holes get completely full of glue I re-drill them. I only have a hand drill so I find the little bit of existing hole to be very helpful to drill them back out straight. Once I am happy with the thickness of medium CA I switch back to thin for two or three coats to help fill in low spots so their is less sanding later. Drill out your holes one last time and get ready for sanding. 

My pictures did not come out while working my way thought he sanding process for some reason so I will update it with my next razor. Here is the process though. A light touch is the key being sure to take extra care around any corners. Start with some 320 wet/dry, but use it dry, depending on how well your thin CA filled in the low spots and knock off all the really high points. 

Continue sanding dry with micro mesh now though 2400 making sure the scratches from each previous grit is gone. By this point also you should have no more low spots or at the most they should be pin head size. They will show up as shinny areas. 

Now finish going though the micro mesh grits wet being sure not to sand though all the layers of glue. If you sand though all the layers it will start to show up as a dull spot and be slightly off color. If that happens scuff the scales up and add another 4 rounds or so of CA. This time sand a little lighter . 

They should be almost shinning like glass at this point, but you put this much time into them lets spend a little more. Lately I have been using novus 2 followed by novus 1 both on a soft flannel cloth. I have used different car polishes and buffing compounds with good results also though. After I buff it with the novus I like to apply a some renaissance wax.


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## davebug

For the razor itself, I restore old straight razors most between 60-100+ years old. It is pretty much the same for each one, depending on the condition of the razor decides where you start and how long you spend at that level. I recently got a 1100 rpm buffer and greaseless compounds but up to this point it was all done by hand so that is the method I will go though. 

I use either silicone carbide or aluminum oxide sand paper for the sanding of the razors. Depending on how ruff of condition it is in start as low as 80 grit. Sand at this initial level until you are happy with the amount of pitting that is left if any. Some times I live some pitting to preserve a logo or just for character. Some times you don't want a 120 year old blade looking brand new, other times you do. You also will have to decide if you want a satin finish or mirror again just a personal preference. I use a wine cork and wrap the sand paper around it as most straight razors have a concave hollow grind to them. 

For the first grit I sand what ever direction I need to to get rid of the materiel the fastest. After that each grit sands a different direction, for example 120 grit would go left to right on the blade (heel to toe), then 220 would go up and down (spine to edge). I do it this way because I think it is the easiest to see when you have removed all the previous grits scratch marks. I continue like this all the way though the highest grit you have, some where in the middle switching to wet sanding. I usually go 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, 6000, 8000 grits. 

After you finish with all the sand paper you can use a buffing compound to try to get rid of some of the remaining scratches or to bring it to a higher shine. I like turtle wax polishing compound and scratch remover. I follow that up with what ever metal polish I have handy. Make sure after you are done or if you plan to stop sanding at any point to clean the razor well and give it a coat of oil. You do not want all your hard work exposing that nice clean surface to rust on you. 

I guess you could also use micro mesh instead of wet/dry but I did not find a source for micro mesh without the foam in-between until recently they even have some that are made for metal. CLICK HERE FOR LINK

Now that you have both a razor finished and a set of scales time to finish the last few parts before assembly. You need to make a wedge or spacer for the end opposite the pivot pin hole. You can use any material you like here. I have used wood, plastic, bone, lead, brass plate, and about everything in-between. 

Your material for your spacer should be between 1/3 and 1/2 the thickness of the spine of the razor at the pivot pin hole. After you select your material lay one scale down on it, trace the scale out, mark and drill the pin hole location.

[attachment=24231]

Cut it out making sure to leave the line. Some times I sand it into a wedge shape other times I leave it as just a spacer. I then use some stupid tiny bolts and nuts to assemble it and check for fit. 

[attachment=24232]

Re-trace the outline if you marks are gone take it apart and slowly sand it checking every once in a while until you have it just right. 

Once you are happy with the fit time to assemble the razor. I like to start by using a set of digital calipers and measuring at each pin hole the thickness of any part that is going to make its final home their. That includes the scales, razor, wedge/spacer, and any washers. Now that you have the measurements for each pin hole add around .75-1.25mm to that depending on how big you want your pin heads to be. Cut a section of 1/16 inch rod or what ever size you drilled all your holes at to slightly over what ever the total of all those numbers are. I then sand the ends of each rod to around 3000 grit making sure to end up and my desired length. 

I drilled a hole in a steel plate to hold the pin while I start to peen one end so the washers will stay on. Light taps are the key here, you should tap no harder then you would want your finger nail tapped where it comes in to your cuticle. 

[attachment=24233]

Once you have it so it will hold a washer it is time start putting it together. For the wedge end place one or more washers if you desire to stack them on the newly created pin, then slide that though one scale from the outside. Next slide the wedge followed by the other scale and then washer. Now balancing on the pin side that is slightly flared start to tap the other side until it is flared out enough also to hold the washer. You can now flip back and fourth from each side attempting to keep the pin heads around the same size. Do not finish tightening it up all the way though just get it snug. 

For the tail end (where the pivot pin is). Place a washer/washers on the pin followed by the scale. Now place another washer to act as a buffer between you scales and the razor, followed by the razor itself then mirror that you just did to complete the other side. Tighten this pin up as before. 

Once all the pins are snug you can finish peening them the rest of the way. For the wedge end it should be very tight. For the pivot pin end I like to tighten it enough that the razor can stay opened on its own like in the following picture. 

[attachment=24234]

It is important before you start to peen the pins to polish them as it will result in a smoother higher polished rivet. Also polish your hammer and what ever metal you are going to peen on I use a little jewelers anvil. As you can see from the photo above my hammer is due for another polishing. 

Another tip is you can use a little bit of painters tape with a hole cut out to fit around your washers. That way it protects the finish on the scales a little bit better if you glance off while you are peening or you don't balance it perfect on the pin on the back side. I also borrow a set of my wife's tweezers to pick up all the small washers that my fingers are unsure how to handle, they are about 3mm across.


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## davebug

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