# Just in....blades



## SDB777 (Nov 10, 2013)

Received them the other day, but haven't had a chance to do anything(even open the box). But I got to a point today where I was able to cut the tape off the box and look inside.....

So, now what? I know, doesn't sound like I have a plan yet...true.


Guess the first thing I need is some pins...so I measured the pre-drilled holes and did some searching for brass rods. I came up with a 'nada'! The holes are drilled with most likely #40 drill bits(next size up doesn't fit)...that would require 0.100" brass rod, but guess what? Can't find any. Looked in metal supply warehouse, knife supply websites, amazon even! Nothing...

So, do I order up a size larger? Then re-drill the holes....
What would you(the experienced knife scale sander) do?!?!?!?




Scott (I can sand really good) B


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## DKMD (Nov 10, 2013)

Seems like most of the decorative pins I've seen are much larger, so I'd guess you'd drill out the holes... Just a guess on my part though.


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## NYWoodturner (Nov 10, 2013)

Scott - check Jantz supply or USAkifemaker. One of the twi should have what you need. If not post the sizes you need here, I'm sure one of us has what you need.


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 10, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> Received them the other day, but haven't had a chance to do anything(even open the box). But I got to a point today where I was able to cut the tape off the box and look inside.....
> 
> So, now what? I know, doesn't sound like I have a plan yet...true.
> 
> ...



So...a #40 drill bit is 0.098". You wouldn't want a brass pin larger than that. Typically I go one drill bit size up. So for 1/8" pin I would drill a #30 (0.1285") hole. If the holes in your blank are right around #40-#41, I would assume it was meant for a 3/32" rod. The holes should be slightly bigger than the rod so the rod can slide through it easily without being hammered in. If the hole in the wood is smaller than (or the same size as) the pin, you will risk cracking the wood when you have to hammer the pin in.

Also...for brass pins, I usually go to a welding supply store and pick up a package of bare brazing rods (without flux on them!). One package will last a very long time. 3/32" is a common size in them.

Hope this helps,
Cody


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## SDB777 (Nov 11, 2013)

Guess I need to 'clean up' the blanks a bit....would think a 3/32" hole would be that size? Got some brass and nickel/silver rods on the way, as well as some 1/4" hollow tube for the lanyard thingy!
Need to find one of those tube flaring 'jigs' for the tubing, but that is still awhile away.

I will still need to stabilize a few scales for the handles....I have some really gnarly looking pieces of Southern Red Oak that will probably go on a few knife blanks, and maybe a couple of Pignut Hickory pieces too?


Thanks for the information guys!




Scott (collecting circular saw blades too) B


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## Molokai (Nov 11, 2013)

If you need to re drill the holes it will be impossible task. Because if steel is hardened you will need some high quality drills. I suggest using round file to expand the hole if its small difference. I do it all the time with file for sharpening the chain saw


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 11, 2013)

Also, if you did want to expand the holes, Robert suggested to someone using masonry bits to expand the hole. Never tried it but just an idea. Bit will probably be a one-knife use. This would probably be the easiest way.

What I have done, and it may sound crazy but...if you have a torch... I hold the knife such that the cutting edge portion of the blade is underwater. I heat the tang with a torch until it turns blue-gray. Then let it cool for just a minute while the edge is still underwater and then put the rest of the blade underwater. The water keeps the cutting edge temper from being ruined. Basically you're just softening up the tang so that it can be drilled. After this the knife would need a little bit of sanding to get the oxide color off.


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## Molokai (Nov 11, 2013)

That process can be tricky and some knives can crack, as seen on youtube. But i dont have experience.


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 11, 2013)

Molokai said:


> That process can be tricky and some knives can crack, as seen on youtube. But i dont have experience.



I probably should have been a little more clear on temperature. You definitely do not want to get it too hot. If you get it hot enough where the phase changes to austenite then you quench it, it certainly can crack. You will start seeing oxide colors form when you begin heating....first straw color then brown, purple, blue, gray. I would stop around blue - gray to be safe.The safest bet would be to set up a clamp that holds the edge in the water then let the tang air-cool until it's room temp.

Whether it cracks or not would certainly depend on the steel you were using and temperature it was heated up to. Every steel has different phase change temps, and different quench speeds required. If you had an air hardened steel (like A2) and got it too hot (1460F) then dipped it in water...crack. Usually the stainless temps are closer to 2000F though.

If you actually wanted to try this, message me and I can give you some pointers.


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## Molokai (Nov 11, 2013)

Cody Killgore said:


> I probably should have been a little more clear on temperature. You definitely do not want to get it too hot. If you get it hot enough where the phase changes to austenite then you quench it, it certainly can crack. You will start seeing oxide colors form when you begin heating....first straw color then brown, purple, blue, gray. I would stop around blue - gray to be safe.The safest bet would be to set up a clamp that holds the edge in the water then let the tang air-cool until it's room temp.
> 
> Whether it cracks or not would certainly depend on the steel you were using and temperature it was heated up to. Every steel has different phase change temps, and different quench speeds required. If you had an air hardened steel (like A2) and got it too hot (1460F) then dipped it in water...crack. Usually the stainless temps are closer to 2000F though.
> 
> If you actually wanted to try this, message me and I can give you some pointers.


Thanks, i copied the text you wrote for future use. 
if i decide to do something like that, i will contact you, thanks again


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## SDB777 (Nov 11, 2013)

Molokai said:


> If you need to re drill the holes it will be impossible task. Because if steel is hardened you will need some high quality drills. I suggest using round file to expand the hole if its small difference. I do it all the time with file for sharpening the chain saw


 

Most of my saw files are going to big far too large, but I do have some Dremel grinding stones that just might fit the need! Not sure I need to play with a blow torch....although the temps are supposed to drop through the floor tonight/tomorrow!



Scott (waiting on pieces and parts...like always) B


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 11, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> Most of my saw files are going to big far too large, but I do have some Dremel grinding stones that just might fit the need! Not sure I need to play with a blow torch....although the temps are supposed to drop through the floor tonight/tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> Scott (waiting on pieces and parts...like always) B



Yeah!! It's supposed to get COLD. Probably even colder way up north where you are


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## SDB777 (Nov 11, 2013)

Cody Killgore said:


> Yeah!! It's supposed to get COLD. Probably even colder way up north where you are


 

Be a good time to fire up the forge and blow some heat into the house(you, not me...I don't have one)!



Scott (72*F today 42*F tomorrow...go figure) B


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 11, 2013)

SDB777 said:


> Be a good time to fire up the forge and blow some heat into the house(you, not me...I don't have one)!
> 
> 
> 
> Scott (72*F today 42*F tomorrow...go figure) B



Definitely a good time to do it. Would probably still get really hot in there


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## robert flynt (Nov 11, 2013)

Scott, I would get some corby fasteners. All the knife supply companys have them and since they screw together you will never have to worry about the scales coming loose and you might not have to enlarge the hole if you get the 1/4" fasterners. You can also enlarge the holes with a masonary bit that is tipped with carbite. It will dull the bit but they are cheep and you don't have to anneal the tang besides if the blades are stainless steel you want be able to do it with a kiln.


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## Cody Killgore (Nov 11, 2013)

robert flynt said:


> Scott, I would get some corby fasteners. All the knife supply companys have them and since they screw together you will never have to worry about the scales coming loose and you might not have to enlarge the hole if you get the 1/4" fasterners. You can also enlarge the holes with a masonary bit that is tipped with carbite. It will dull the bit but they are cheep and you don't have to anneal the tang besides if the blades are stainless steel you want be able to do it with a kiln.



I'll second Robert on the corby rivets. After he mentioned them in another post, I bought some to give them a shot. I really like them!!


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