# what I've been up to lately...



## TRfromMT (May 12, 2016)

Not sure if this should go here or over in Grips and Stocks. Anyway... I have been developing handles for some knives recently. I don't do the knives - they are commercially available from Survive! Knives out of Kellog, ID. They are fantastic knives and people love 'em. I got a couple of different models and have been making handles. I matched the original handles as closely as possible so they feel the same in your hand and fit in the original (kydex) sheath. 

I had to figure out how to machine the pocket for the lanyard (hidden lanyard hole), and had to make my own step drill bit for the fastener holes. The step drill bit looks awful, like it was gnawed out of drill rod by a feral beaver, but makes the holes exactly right so I'm happy with result. The grips shown do NOT have holes drilled by the step bit - which is what led me to having to make one if you look close (yikes!).

I know this is the Knife Making area, but since this is overall about wood, I hope you guys appreciate. IgGenuinely appreciate any and all comments and critiques.

These are stabilized walnut, and I've done some also in stabilized curly maple. The factory stocks (micarta) are shown last.

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 5


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## Wildthings (May 12, 2016)

Those factory handles a'int got nothing on your upgrades!! Well done. How did you make the step drill please!

@TRfromMT


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## TRfromMT (May 12, 2016)

Started with 21/64" (0.016" over the 5/16" head diameter). Grind the pilot diameter to 0.254" which the barrel of the fastener just slips into. The fastener head is 0.3125", so I took the c-bore to about 0.318" diameter, which gives me a few thou all around. Also the underside of the head has a bevel (looks like a typical 118-degree fastener), so I matched that on the c-bore flutes. Just eyeballed that part. You have to under-cut the c-bore flutes, then relieve the back side of the shoulder, too. You will know when you have it right when the bit cuts shavings instead of smoking/burning.

How? "Very Carefully" 

I used a Dremel sawmax with a cutoff wheel. All hand profiled, which is why the sides looked pretty hashed. I chucked the bit up in the drill and "shave" the sides and cut the flutes. Cut against the rotation of the bit. Work very slowly and check things often. If you take too much off (diameter) the fastener does not fit and you have to start over...

Looks rough, I know, but it works a treat. I watched a youtube the first time I ever tried it. I think the drill bit cost me $2. I found a machine shop that would make me one for $190. Screw that. I've done this to make the holes in pistol grip blanks too. Works awesome.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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