# couple of peppermills



## DKMD (Dec 25, 2012)

I've been lucky enough to get a little shop time in the last week, and I finished a couple of peppermills. These were my first two attempts at the shaftless crushgrind mechanism… Overall, I like the fact that there are no protruding knobs, but it took me considerably longer to make these than the steel shaft versions I've done previously.
The first is dyed curly maple with a threaded blackwood top… This one was claimed for the house. About 13" tall.
[attachment=15210][attachment=15211][attachment=15213]



The second is local elm with authentic Rebuild ziricote for a stopper. About 11" tall.
[attachment=15214][attachment=15215][attachment=15216]

Since my wife claimed the red one, I took our former daily user back out to the shop and returned it… I'll get some photos up when I get around to finishing it.


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## cabomhn (Dec 25, 2012)

Those look really great! I've never tried the crush grind mech. but I've heard they work pretty well. I can see why that first one was claimed for the house, you can't even see the seam and the wood looks great too.


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## Dane Fuller (Dec 26, 2012)

I like the slender, graceful look, Keller. I was going to ask how all those different sized drill outs worked but you sorta answered it for me.


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## Patrude (Dec 26, 2012)

DKMD said:


> I've been lucky enough to get a little shop time in the last week, and I finished a couple of peppermills. These were my first two attempts at the shaftless crushgrind mechanism… Overall, I like the fact that there are no protruding knobs, but it took me considerably longer to make these than the steel shaft versions I've done previously.
> The first is dyed curly maple with a threaded blackwood top… This one was claimed for the house. About 13" tall.
> 
> 
> ...



 Very nicely done, good balance and form; impressive work, congrats


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## Kevin (Dec 26, 2012)

Those are sexy. I didn't like making the shaftless at first but I prefer them now. Just takes getting use to doing things differernt. Love the sleek shapes you made there. Not that I don't appreciate the work it takes for complex designs but I'm more much drawn to shapes like that than all the beads and bulges.


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## NYWoodturner (Dec 26, 2012)

Beautiful work Doc  But I'm with Matt - I have looked several times now and don't see the seam in the first one... I guess thats about as close to perfectly executed as you can get 
The design is awesome too. I think it shows off the wood better than a traditional design. Well done.


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## davidgiul (Dec 26, 2012)

Suzie says well done, Doc, and I would have to agree with her.


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## DKMD (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks all. I still haven't hit on the form that I have envisioned for these, but I'm getting closer. 

Scott, the trick on the grain for these is to use a separate piece of wood for the tenon that links the two parts together... Otherwise, you end up taking an inch out of the middle of the grain pattern.


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## davidgiul (Dec 26, 2012)

DKMD said:


> Thanks all. I still haven't hit on the form that I have envisioned for these, but I'm getting closer.
> 
> Scott, the trick on the grain for these is to use a separate piece of wood for the tenon that links the two parts together... Otherwise, you end up taking an inch out of the middle of the grain pattern.


I most definitely want to see your "improvement" of your existing design.


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## duncsuss (Dec 26, 2012)

Beautiful elegant design, these look just like the next peppermills I'll make 



DKMD said:


> Scott, the trick on the grain for these is to use a separate piece of wood for the tenon that links the two parts together... Otherwise, you end up taking an inch out of the middle of the grain pattern.


Very clever ... I was wondering how you managed to get the grain looking so perfect the whole way across.

Thanks for sharing the how-to


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## Kevin (Dec 26, 2012)

DKMD said:


> Scott, the trick on the grain for these is to use a separate piece of wood for the tenon that links the two parts together... Otherwise, you end up taking an inch out of the middle of the grain pattern.



Exactly what I do.


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## duncsuss (Dec 26, 2012)

Kevin said:


> DKMD said:
> 
> 
> > Scott, the trick on the grain for these is to use a separate piece of wood for the tenon that links the two parts together... Otherwise, you end up taking an inch out of the middle of the grain pattern.
> ...



I'm having trouble getting my head around the steps (and the sequence) to realize this. I drill from the bottom with a 1" forstner bit (or 1+1/16" if it's handy) then part it off ... now I have to widen the hole in both the top and the bottom in order to take a plug to be the tenon ...

Oh, I think I see ... round the blank, part it, hollow out both top and bottom to receive the plug, then drill from the bottom ... uh, will that work? :wacko1:


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## Kevin (Dec 26, 2012)

duncsuss said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> > DKMD said:
> ...



The way I do it is put a slight tenon on both ends of the mill after roughing and when it's between centers, so you can chuck each piece separately as needed. After I give the mill somewhat of a shape I part the top from the body (do not make a tenon bewteen the top and body, simply part it). After parting, chuck the top up and drill a 1/2 hole in the bottom of the top about 1/2" deep. Make sure you have zero wobble or the top will not mate cleanly with the body later unless you re-flatten the top of the body and the bottom of the top - something you don't want to have to do. Then glue the 1/2" round dowel you made into the top - for the dowel I usually use an exotic hardwood scrap for looks and also because they offer less friction once polished real nice. Now you have a tenon with almost no loss of grain pattern in the mill, except the narrow kerf of the parting tool.


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## duncsuss (Dec 26, 2012)

Kevin said:


> The way I do it is put a slight tenon on both ends of the mill after roughing and when it's between centers, so you can chuck each piece separately as needed. After I give the mill somewhat of a shape I part the top from the body (do not make a tenon bewteen the top and body, simply part it). After parting, chuck the top up and drill a 1/2 hole in the bottom of the top about 1/2" deep. Make sure you have zero wobble or the top will not mate cleanly with the body later unless you re-flatten the top of the body and the bottom of the top - something you don't want to have to do. Then glue the 1/2" round dowel you made into the top - for the dowel I usually use an exotic hardwood scrap for looks and also because they offer less friction once polished real nice. Now you have a tenon with almost no loss of grain pattern in the mill, except the narrow kerf of the parting tool.



Thanks Kevin, this helps clear up some of my muddle. At what point do you drill the long hole through the bottom section of the mill?

(Maybe my problem is I've only ever made one mill, the old-fashioned kind with the metal rod from bottom to a screw-on knob on the top.)


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## DKMD (Dec 26, 2012)

I round the blank between centers and put a tenon on both ends. The shaftless kits require a 3" lower section, so I mark that point and use a thin parting tool and dovetail saw to cut the blank in two. Starting with the lower piece, I drill with all three bits per the instructions. I sand the bottom of the lower section at this point.

Next, I chuck up the top portion of the mill and drill all the way through it with a 1 1/16 bit. Then I take the 1 1/2" bit and drill a shallow mortise in the bottom of the upper piece. I glue a seperate piece of hardwood turned to fit the mortise and drill it to the 1 1/16". Then I turn the outside of that hardwood tenon to match up perfectly with the opening in the top of the lower portion. The fit at this point is what makes or breaks the mill in my opinion... Too tight and it squeaks... Too loose and the top feels sloppy.

After getting the fit right, I turn the outside shape of the entire mill with the two halves joined together and mashed between centers. I turn the top of the upper piece at the end holding the hardwood tenon in a chuck and using the tailstock as much as possible.

Essentially, all you're doing is using a separate piece of wood to make the tenon on the bottom of the upper piece, but it makes all the difference in getting the grain to match. There's probably a better way, but that's how I've done the last few.


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## duncsuss (Dec 27, 2012)

Thanks David -- I think I've got it


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## healeydays (Dec 27, 2012)

Doc,

If your stitches are that clean and tight in your day job as they are at your hobby, I will have to fly to you if I ever need a tuneup...


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