# Bar Top



## Woodsman (Feb 4, 2016)

I mentioned in another post a bar top that I built about a year ago. Here it is. Wood is barn wood with all its features; nails, tacks, holes, patina, etc. Best bar top epoxy finish was used. I'm sold on this stuff. Its been a year now and while there are scratches as one would expect, none of them are deep and there are far fewer than I would expect from a years worth of service. 
If you're ever in the Stephenville area, you can check it out at Ruby's Texas Bistro by the square.

Reactions: Like 3 | EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 11


----------



## Jim Beam (Feb 4, 2016)

Very Nice!


----------



## ironman123 (Feb 4, 2016)

That is very nice Wesley. You did a great job on it. I can dig those barstools to (well constructed).


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 4, 2016)

That aluminum angle with the rivets was a pain in the hind end. Drilling all the holes exactly spaced was fun and time consuming. The epoxy was one pour and was poured flush with the top of the angle. Still in all, the easiest pour I've ever done.


----------



## brown down (Feb 5, 2016)

you just poured that you didn't sand or buff it out? I have never done an epoxy pour so its all new to me! looks like glass on top! love the barn wood look!!!!


----------



## Kevin (Feb 5, 2016)

Woodsman said:


> The epoxy was one pour



You got to explain that. I've poured a dozen flood coats but all small by comparison. You must have had several helpers to pull that off. Mixing all that epoxy and keeping a torch or heat gun going all the time and someone pouring the next section etc. etc. that had to be a handful!

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 5, 2016)

Kevin said:


> You got to explain that. I've poured a dozen flood coats but all small by comparison. You must have had several helpers to pull that off. Mixing all that epoxy and keeping a torch or heat gun going all the time and someone pouring the next section etc. etc. that had to be a handful!



I'll admit that there were two of us. I had one helper to mix about 2 gallons at a time while I spread it out and kept it from running over the aluminum angle. Mixing directions are pretty precise and we followed them to a T; think stopwatch and the like. I was originally not going to have someone help, but I only had one shot at it as the height of the aluminum angle could no longer change, and with something close to 40 feet worth of bar in two levels it was certainly seeming a bit overwhelming at the time. Having someone to help look for bubbles was also handy. This was a lot of epoxy. Once I felt I had enough on the top such that it would self level to the level it needed to (aluminum angle), we went over it watching for major air bubbles and "leaks" through any holes that might not have been filled in the pre-epoxy filling and seal coat. Self leveling of this was far quicker and smoother than others that I've used as well. There were one or two that were bubbling pretty hard, but no leaks thankfully. It's easy enough to put more epoxy in them while it is still less than 30 minutes old. Then its simply a matter of a butane torch to get rid of all the bubbles. This product stood out from the others that I have tried with regard to the bubble popping. They were very simple to get rid of with a quick pass 8-12 inches above them. Additionally, I made the owners keep some signs on the top as soon as it was dry the next day that kept ANYTHING from being placed on it for 7 days. Neither of us wanted to start over because some dork came through and put their tool box on it because it was handy. Most importantly, they were extremely happy with the results.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Nature Man (Feb 5, 2016)

What a great fit into a 1940s-1950s looking era bar. I would love to hear more about the specifics of the epoxy you used, how you poured, etc. Chuck


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 5, 2016)

brown down said:


> you just poured that you didn't sand or buff it out? I have never done an epoxy pour so its all new to me! looks like glass on top! love the barn wood look!!!!



Nope, no sanding, buffing, etc. Pour and let dry. I would have preferred something other than the barn wood and sweated making it look good when it was done. I'd have rather used just about anything else if for no other reason than not to have to have dealt with all the extra bubbles associated with the nail holes and tacks in the barnwood. My son stopped counting at 25o while hammering tacks flat on just one side of one of those 10' boards.


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 5, 2016)

Some other tops that I've used epoxy on. Like I mentioned, Best Bar Top Epoxy will be my go to epoxy from now on. You can actually see the difference in the finish.


----------



## Kevin (Feb 5, 2016)

Great job on it Wesley. Some people like that plastic look of the epoxy but starting around 2006-2007 I started noticing the table top epoxy trending down because many people think it looks cheap (though it is obviously not). You may be aware of this, but there are ways to put a satin sheen on that which removes the hi gloss plexiglass look that many people don't care for, yet still maintains all that cool 3D depth. Here's a cookie I did last year for one of our daughter's wedding. Notice there's no reflection on the epoxy just a clear satin sheen. 



 



 

I'm not saying the hi-gloss plasticy finish isn't attractive - that's a personal preference thing, but many people don't care for it and putting a satin sheen on top of it after it cures opens up the potential to get their business when you show them a sample.


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 5, 2016)

I've had so many requests for those cookies in the last couple years...... and yes, I did know you can give it a satin finish others might not however. Thanks.

Curious though if you are actually putting a finish on top of it or just buffing the epoxy. I have buffed the epoxy to achieve the satin finish before. I figure the epoxy will outlast anything that I could put over it though I could be wrong.


----------



## Kevin (Feb 5, 2016)

Wesley there's many ways to peel that rabbit. But essentially you can use whatever finish you like for the post epoxy coat/s ... just sand between each coat to ensure proper adhesion typically 320 - 400 grit..


----------



## Woodsman (Feb 5, 2016)

Will the epoxy hold up to some finishes flashing off or will it tend to blister it? You've got me curious now as to what finishes would go on it. It could save me some time in the future. My own feeble mind would say that poly would be the finish of choice here, but drying time would prevent me from using it as the preferred top coat. I tend to stick with what I know works for me and don't stray too far from that in most instances. However, if I'm not achieving a finish that is satisfactory to me then you can bet I'll be looking for something new.


----------



## Kevin (Feb 5, 2016)

Anything tough enough for a floor finish works for a bar top clear coat. Just choose the sheen of your choice. PU will not blister epoxy resin just make sure to scuff up the cured epoxy with fine grit I prefer 400 then clean that off with acetone, let dry, shoot with oil based poly. I have done this before and I know it works. I have used Charles Neil's method also and it works fine too but is a little more work. 

If you want to keep the epoxy top but with a satin or matte sheen but with no clear coat over it whatsoever, use 0000 steel wool with cutting oil (you read right) then wash that off with diluted dawn dish washing soap and viola - satin finish. I have never tried that method but I use Kleer Kote epoxy by US Composites and that's what they suggest in order to get the matte look.


----------

