# Various restored straight razors



## davebug (Mar 6, 2013)

ssgmeader was asking to see some pictures so here are some that I have restored. The photos are not the best as they came from iphones or a cruddy camera, I have a new camera set up but most of the razors are with friends or family so not easily retaken. All of them have a CA glue finish. Most of them started out looking like some thing you would not want to cut a rope with much less shave with.

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Bonsa straight razor with redwood burl scales. the silver pins where replaced with brass ones, I had a brain fart when putting it together.

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W.H. Morley & Sons straight razor with cocobolo scales.

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The Magnetic Razor(top) with lacewood scales. Bullfrog(bottom) with Honduran rosewood scales. 

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Wade and Butcher with amboyna burl scales. Because the way the logo is stamped on the tang it was made prior to 1890, it has had a long life already with many more years to come.


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## Mike1950 (Mar 6, 2013)

Beautiful work.


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## Kevin (Mar 6, 2013)

Dave those are very very nice. I can see that would be an addicting sector of woodworking. Are old straight razors expensive to collect? Probably like everything else some are and some are not? I might like to try and find some of those. Nice work thanks for showing us.


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## TimR (Mar 6, 2013)

Nice work...very nice work.  I've looked at the old razors on auctions and thought it a cool idea to restore one...but too much on my plate, and if I did even get one, then the challenge would be finding it in my shop.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 6, 2013)

Joe Rebuild said:


> Those are sweet David would you consider a trade wood for razor?



DOH ...you beat me to it!!!!!!!! And I have a full beard but still want one....I also want you to put up a tutorial in the class shop.. This is such a unique thing to do with scraps. And Im sure some of those blades are VINTAGE very impressive work. thanks for sharing.[/u]


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## davebug (Mar 6, 2013)

Thank you all for you kind words. Yes some are stupid expensive I buy most of the ones I restore at antique shops or flea markets, sometimes ebay. All the ones pictured I paid no more then $10-15 each but they where ugly, maybe a little more for the bonsa. I collect them but not for antique purposes, every one I own gets rotated into the shave cycle. 

When I was first getting into straight razor shaving I bought a new one as well as a restored one that some one else had done. I can tell you the old one out shaved the new one hands down. Since then I have only bought old razors, its true they just don't make them like they used to.

I just got a buffer that I am going to set up with greaseless compound so that I don't have to hand sand all the razors talk about time consuming. I have to wait until the weather warms up a bit so I can use it outside on the sidewalk I think it would fling to much compound around to use in the apartment. When I do that I will attempt to make a tutorial for both the razor restore and making of the scales as each set of scales I make to fit each razor that varies in size and shape. 

Joe and ssgmeader I would probably consider trading a razor let me look though what I have that is ready to go into scales or is close enough to finish by hand and I will get back to you two. Give me a few days to check it out and I will post some pics of what I find sans scales and we can go from their.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 6, 2013)

davebug said:


> Thank you all for you kind words. Yes some are stupid expensive I buy most of the ones I restore at antique shops or flea markets, sometimes ebay. All the ones pictured I paid no more then $10-15 each but they where ugly, maybe a little more for the bonsa. I collect them but not for antique purposes, every one I own gets rotated into the shave cycle.
> 
> When I was first getting into straight razor shaving I bought a new one as well as a restored one that some one else had done. I can tell you the old one out shaved the new one hands down. Since then I have only bought old razors, its true they just don't make them like they used to.
> 
> ...



Thats more than generous. I think I'd like to try restoring one too but I'll wait until I see a good tutorial with some tips and tricks.....Now off to rumage through scrap bings for little fiborous gold!!!!!!!


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## ssgmeader (Mar 7, 2013)

Dave also if need be I'd be willing to supply the razo as well. Maybe I can find 2 and you can keep one for your collection.I have ALOT of antique shops around me so could probably scare one up. But you'd have to tell me what to look for in a blade..(IE whats quality whats not)


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## davebug (Mar 7, 2013)

ssgmeader said:


> Dave also if need be I'd be willing to supply the razo as well. Maybe I can find 2 and you can keep one for your collection.I have ALOT of antique shops around me so could probably scare one up. But you'd have to tell me what to look for in a blade..(IE whats quality whats not)



ssgmeader if you would like to source your own blade I can help guide you but their is a lot of little things to look for, not saying you shouldn't do it but lots of little things decide weather or not its restore-able to be a shaver and a good deal. When I first got into it I bought plenty of razors I thought where great turns out I over paid and they where turds. A lot of people and antique shops sadly think just because some thing is old its worth a fortune if it where 100 years old and NOS(new old stock) in mint condition then yes but when its rusted, pitted, and the scales are broke it is only worth a few bucks. Some are easily convinced of that and some are not. My favorite thing to tell the stubborn ones when they say 'yah but its over 70 years old' I tell them I have some rocks outside that are millions of years old but it does not make them valuable. 

I took a quick look and it looks like I have 7 or 8 of them that are close to being finish sanded. All the pitting and rust has been removed and they are sanded to about 1500 grit right now which makes them kind of have a sateen finish instead of a mirror polish. I like to looks of both finishes but this weekend I will take some photos for you and Joe and let you decide.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 7, 2013)

davebug said:


> ssgmeader said:
> 
> 
> > Dave also if need be I'd be willing to supply the razo as well. Maybe I can find 2 and you can keep one for your collection.I have ALOT of antique shops around me so could probably scare one up. But you'd have to tell me what to look for in a blade..(IE whats quality whats not)
> ...



Good info. Is there certain brands that stand the test of time or retain better value? Maybe I should have read this before bidding on 2 on Ebay, that I just happened to win LOL. A Bengall that looks a little beat up but for $5 I figured it was worth the gamble. 

And an Asian one (I think due to the Kanji) That the scales are trash, but I figured that didn't matter cause that's where you come in.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Vintage-straight-razors-project-1500-no-name-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/y38AAMXQMmJRL5PG/$(KGrHqF,!lMFDkYBp7+6BRL5PGzBWg~~60_57.JPG
..http://i.ebayimg.com/t/BENGALL-RAZOR-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/mQoAAOxyyF5RL9GK/$(KGrHqF,!rUFEuKO5umRBRL9GJjV,!~~60_57.JPG

I'll throw it out there if your serious about the trade, you an use one of yours and keep the 2 I bought or use one of the ones I'll send you. Also let me know what wood you'd be interested in for scales. I've already set aside some Bocote, Purple Heart, and birdseye maple slices that I had, Im sure I can find more. You tell me what you'd get for a blade and I'll make sure you get enough wood to make it fair!


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## ssgmeader (Mar 7, 2013)

Or a pen too! That's always available to you too.


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## davebug (Mar 8, 2013)

I don't think you did to bad for your first impulse buy I am sure myself and many others have done worse. If you would like me to try to restore one or both of the ones you have I would be happy to give it a shot as long as you are not in a rush to get it back or you can select from one that I have its up to you.

The bangall's usually make nice shavers, the red rust usually does not go too deep. From the picture it looks like no rust near the cutting edge and only a little on the spine which is not a big deal and little to no hone wear. For $5 its a champ. Bangall's where trademarked by a larger company which name escapes me but be-leave they where made in Sheffield England.

The Asian one don't know anything about it other then it looks in pretty good shape.

I have plenty of no name razors(not big known brands) that shave awesome. If I where to make a short list of some thing to look for I would not so much look for a brand as where they came from. Vintage razors from Solingen Germany, Sheffield England, and the good old USA are a good place to start. Although like your razor above it may not have the place it was made stamped on it, some times you just have to know. Japanese Kamisori razors are nice too but think more of shaving with a sushi knife, only one side of the blade is ground and it has a straight fixed handle. Stay away from most modern made razors unless you plan on spending well over $100 on one your not going to like what you get. Also avoid razors from Pakistan some may be ok but its a roll of the dice.

As far as what is restore-able almost anything is with time and money but what I consider doable, this is what I look for. No rust or pitting near the cutting edge, no cracks, no big chips in the cutting edge(more time honeing and shrinking your blade past the chip), even hone wear across the spine and blade(none is better). Rust will be on almost any restore usually red/orange rust is not to deep but the black stuff (devils spit) can run deep and almost always has some pitting under it. Having a razor with some pitting is not bad as long as they are not along the cutting edge or to deep on the spine.

Below is one of my favorite shavers nothing made by me on it just taken apart restored and repined with the original horn scales. I included a diagram labeling parts of the razor as well as a close up to see some of the pitting that is left on this 120+ year old beauty I think it just gives it a little more character.

Joe and ssgmeader look in the trade section for the post of the razors that I have that may interest you. I know its the wood for trade but your trading me wood so I think we still qualify.

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View attachment 71143


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## Bigg081 (Mar 18, 2013)

Mr Dave. I responded to this thread during our server transition and it got lost I guess. Don't know if you saw it and responded but I didn't see it either way. No big deal.
I'm curious to how much one of these gorgeous straight blades would be. I go to a real old school barber shop and I think they would love to display one of these. Let me know if you would be willing to sell one, or any other ideas. I'm not sure if I could find one at any local antique shops or not. 
PM me if you like.


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## davebug (Mar 19, 2013)

Bigg081 said:


> Mr Dave. I responded to this thread during our server transition and it got lost I guess. Don't know if you saw it and responded but I didn't see it either way. No big deal.
> I'm curious to how much one of these gorgeous straight blades would be. I go to a real old school barber shop and I think they would love to display one of these. Let me know if you would be willing to sell one, or any other ideas. I'm not sure if I could find one at any local antique shops or not.
> PM me if you like.



Nope never saw it, but I do now sending you a PM to find some details.


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## robert flynt (Jun 9, 2013)

davebug said:


> Thank you all for you kind words. Yes some are stupid expensive I buy most of the ones I restore at antique shops or flea markets, sometimes ebay. All the ones pictured I paid no more then $10-15 each but they where ugly, maybe a little more for the bonsa. I collect them but not for antique purposes, every one I own gets rotated into the shave cycle.
> 
> When I was first getting into straight razor shaving I bought a new one as well as a restored one that some one else had done. I can tell you the old one out shaved the new one hands down. Since then I have only bought old razors, its true they just don't make them like they used to.
> 
> ...


David, You probably already know this but it's worth saying again. Be very careful with the buffer, especially with loose buffing wheel. That thing can snatch it out of your hands in a the blink of an eye. The ones over 3,000 rpms, most knifemakers won't use them, are the most dangerous the 1,800 are safer but still very dangerous,especially if your buffing something with an sharp edge on it. The most dangerous place to put the buffer is on a table top. Because when it's snatched out of your hands it can glance up and get you.
I really love what your doing with these old blades. I know a very good knifemakers who does the same thing and keeps them in his collection.
Robert


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