# Buying stabilizing supplies help



## Flacer22 (May 1, 2020)

I want to get into casting and stabilizing right now more of a kinds goofing off type thing but would like to buy equipment to do semi larger amounts so if it works out I can add that the list of services I offer. 

I'm leaning towards a vaccum chamber from turn Tex as that's where I plan to buy the cactus juice from. Also I'm a fan of his clear type Chambers. 

He recommends JB eliminator vac pumps I kinda more or less planned on that as well but how many CFMs do I need to run a couple Chambers at once??? 4 6 7cfm more?!?

Also anyone have any other supplies I need to be buying to start stabilizing??

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## ripjack13 (May 1, 2020)




----------



## Maverick (May 1, 2020)

Watching with interest as this is on my wish list for the future as well.


----------



## Sprung (May 1, 2020)

CFM doesn't matter for a pump for stabilizing. So don't waste your money on buying a higher CFM pump. I have a JB Eliminator DV-4E that I have been very happy with - I've even had it apart to service it after it; they're fully serviceable pumps. If you want to save a little money buying one, sign up for emails from Zoro.com. They very often send out 15% and 20% off coupons - I bought my pump with a 20% off coupon. I previously ran four chambers off the one pump with no issues. I built a manifold with shut-off valves that allowed me to add or remove chambers without having to release vacuum from the other chambers.

If you're doing large amounts, skip the toaster oven for drying or curing blanks. I have an electric smoker that I use for drying and curing blanks. It's this one, but mine doesn't have the glass in the door. Note: once you use it for curing blanks, this is not something you want to go and smoke a rack of ribs in; whatever type of oven you're curing blanks in shouldn't be used for food.. The drying I mention isn't the drying of a piece of wood from green (it runs too hot for that), but that final drying of a piece that is at EMC down to 0% moisture prior to stabilizing. And then I use it for curing as well. I do not wrap in tin foil - started out doing that in my toaster over and what a pain in the butt to clean up afterward. I have a set of quarter sheet pans and correspondingly sized racks to sit in the pans that I use. I line the pan with tinfoil, set the rack in, and set the blanks to be cured on the rack. Any bleed out drips down into the foil lined tray.

If you want to do any dye work while stabilizing, that's a whole other rabbit hole to go down, but is one that is a lot of fun.

Any other questions, just ask. There's lots of us here who have experience stabilizing.

There's a lot of info here on WB on stabilizing, but maybe one day I'll make a tutorial on it, especially with information on getting started. Maybe whenever I stabilize again - currently on hiatus from that to focus on other aspects of woodworking. (And still getting my shop set up after moving.)

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Way Cool 1 | Informative 3


----------



## Don Van Dyne (May 2, 2020)

You can’t beat the turn Tex products they are designed well for stabilizing wood. I agree with the pump info above. Mine is a cheap 4 CFM from amazon that I run for days at a time for over a year with zero issues (keep oil clean). I also have a 3 gallon glass vac chamber that works great. I definitely prefer to NOT wrap in foil when curing especially with figured wood, resin gets piled up in the nooks and crannies. You don't need much else it’s a pretty simple process and very satisfying. The weight of your wood will sometimes triple. One very important piece if you don’t have one is a moisture meter. Wood must be as close to 0% as possible before stabilizing(crucial). Buy some cactus juice and cactus juice dyes and have fun!!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Tony (May 2, 2020)

My advice is to call Curtis at TurnTex and pick his brain. He's a great guy who is always willing to offer advice and help.

Reactions: Like 1 | +Karma 1


----------



## TimR (May 2, 2020)

If you feel like looking at Harbor Freight for pump, I’ve been happy with mine for >8 yrs but as they say, your mileage may vary.
I’ve been doing a good bit recently, a lot of experimenting and seeing effects. One thing I’ll say, Alumilite dyes have been used alot for the Cactus Juice but the Turntex dyes seem like the way to go. Only downside, if one, is you can not use the Turntex dyes with Alumilite.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## TimR (May 2, 2020)

Sprung said:


> CFM doesn't matter for a pump for stabilizing. So don't waste your money on buying a higher CFM pump. I have a JB Eliminator DV-4E that I have been very happy with - I've even had it apart to service it after it; they're fully serviceable pumps. If you want to save a little money buying one, sign up for emails from Zoro.com. They very often send out 15% and 20% off coupons - I bought my pump with a 20% off coupon. I previously ran four chambers off the one pump with no issues. I built a manifold with shut-off valves that allowed me to add or remove chambers without having to release vacuum from the other chambers.
> 
> If you're doing large amounts, skip the toaster oven for drying or curing blanks. I have an electric smoker that I use for drying and curing blanks. It's this one, but mine doesn't have the glass in the door. Note: once you use it for curing blanks, this is not something you want to go and smoke a rack of ribs in; whatever type of oven you're curing blanks in shouldn't be used for food.. The drying I mention isn't the drying of a piece of wood from green (it runs too hot for that), but that final drying of a piece that is at EMC down to 0% moisture prior to stabilizing. And then I use it for curing as well. I do not wrap in tin foil - started out doing that in my toaster over and what a pain in the butt to clean up afterward. I have a set of quarter sheet pans and correspondingly sized racks to sit in the pans that I use. I line the pan with tinfoil, set the rack in, and set the blanks to be cured on the rack. Any bleed out drips down into the foil lined tray.
> 
> ...


Matt, I’m curious...how well does that smoker regulate temps? That’s been a challenge with the little toaster ovens, even when using good stand alone thermometer inside. 
Also, I’m assuming you only use outside??


----------



## Sprung (May 2, 2020)

TimR said:


> Matt, I’m curious...how well does that smoker regulate temps? That’s been a challenge with the little toaster ovens, even when using good stand alone thermometer inside.
> Also, I’m assuming you only use outside??



It regulated pretty good, once I figured out the actual temps - I usually had to set mine to 175 or 180 so that I was at 190 to 195 for curing. Setting it at 215 got me 220 to 225 for the final dry down to 0% moisture prior to stabilizing. Temp didn't swing as wildly as the toaster oven did either. Other bonus was I could cure larger pieces.

Sometimes outside. Sometimes in the garage - if I wasn't in the garage, and always with ventilation.


----------



## Flacer22 (May 2, 2020)

Awesome guys thanks for the info I have spoken with Curtis some but wanted some other opinions! I'm going to order some stuff soon and get to work trying things out. I've got alot of stuff I really want to cast and can't cast of it's not stabilized haha

Reactions: Like 1


----------

