# recommended bandsaw tires?



## duncsuss (Aug 8, 2017)

The lower wheel of my bandsaw lost its tire -- not sure what exactly happened, but it's now a strip of rubber instead of a loop.

So -- does anyone have a preference for brand of replacement tires?

It's a Ridgid 14" standard clone of the Delta/Jet/Grizzly/YouNameIt 14" machine. The wheel has a raised edge that the tire fits inside (if it makes a difference).

Thanks for any & all suggestions!


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## Schroedc (Aug 8, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> The lower wheel of my bandsaw lost its tire -- not sure what exactly happened, but it's now a strip of rubber instead of a loop.
> 
> So -- does anyone have a preference for brand of replacement tires?
> 
> ...



I'd go with the blue urethane ones. Amazon, a few other places have them.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Ray D (Aug 8, 2017)

I purchased the orange urethane ones off Amazon. Don't know who makes them.

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## duncsuss (Aug 8, 2017)

Schroedc said:


> I'd go with the blue urethane ones. Amazon, a few other places have them.



I think that's Carter Products? That was the first one that came to mind.



Ray D said:


> I purchased the orange urethane ones off Amazon. Don't know who makes them.



Ridgid sell orange ones specified for my saw. Do you think they are decent quality?


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## Schroedc (Aug 8, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> I think that's Carter Products? That was the first one that came to mind.
> 
> 
> 
> Ridgid sell orange ones specified for my saw. Do you think they are decent quality?



Probably. I'd doublecheck they are Urethane but probably no different other than color.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Ray D (Aug 8, 2017)

I have been using them for about five years. I'm happy with them. What's the difference between the orange ones and the blue ones? Maybe @Schroedc knows the difference.


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## duncsuss (Aug 8, 2017)

Ray D said:


> What's the difference between the orange ones and the blue ones?


Probably just the name of the dye chemicals mixed into the urethane

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Schroedc (Aug 8, 2017)

Ray D said:


> I have been using them for about five years. I'm happy with them. What's the difference between the orange ones and the blue ones? Maybe @Schroedc knows the difference.



AS far as I know, one is orange, one is blue 

I wen;t with blue ones because that was what was on the shelf when I need them.

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## Tony (Aug 8, 2017)

The blue ones, the Carter ones were much easier to put on than the orange ones I got from Delta. Tony

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## Mike1950 (Aug 8, 2017)

The yellow one griz was horrible to put on

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Sprung (Aug 8, 2017)

Yeah, I got the blue ones on mine. So far holding up well after 5+ years.

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## ripjack13 (Aug 8, 2017)

When you get the new ones, soak em in hot water to make em easier to put on....

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## duncsuss (Aug 8, 2017)

ripjack13 said:


> When you get the new ones, soak em in hot water to make em easier to put on....


Yes, I read that in several of the comments/reviews of the tires I was looking at on Amazon.

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## Sprung (Aug 8, 2017)

A little squirt of dish soap in the hot water is also very beneficial.

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## woodtickgreg (Aug 8, 2017)

They are a bugger to put on, but laat a long time!

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## Herb G. (Aug 13, 2017)

I put Sulphur Grove tires on my Jet bandsaw.
So far, they've held up well.

https://sgtool.com/product-category/urethane-band-saw-tires/

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Lou Currier (Aug 13, 2017)

I bought the blue tires for my craftsman and the orange for my rigid. The material is definitely different, the blue tires harder to put on, and the blue seems to hold their shape better as well as settle in on the tire evenly. 

I bought the orange tires directly from rigid at a reasonable price for the pair ($18.00). When those tires go the next ones that I will buy are the blue ones. They are $30.00 - $40.00 for the pair. 

"Blue Tires Matter"

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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> "Blue Tires Matter"





Too late, I already bought the orange ones from Ridgid ... but when these go, I'll try to remember your recommendation 

Now then -- next question: which blue tires did you get? I've seen blue ones that appear to be generic, and blue ones from Carter Products (which according to the reviews are not the full width of the rabbet in the wheel rim, that put me off slightly as I couldn't see how they can run true if the sides aren't held in place.)

Thanks!


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## Sprung (Aug 13, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Too late, I already bought the orange ones from Ridgid ... but when these go, I'll try to remember your recommendation
> 
> Now then -- next question: which blue tires did you get? I've seen blue ones that appear to be generic, and blue ones from Carter Products (which according to the reviews are not the full width of the rabbet in the wheel rim, that put me off slightly as I couldn't see how they can run true if the sides aren't held in place.)
> 
> Thanks!



I bought the Carter ones when I bought mine as I hadn't seen the generic ones on eBay before I made the purchase. The crowning isn't in the tire, but in the wheel itself on most bandsaws. So even if the tire is a little off, the wheel will still be crowned exactly where it needs to be and the tire, which is a uniform thickness across the width, will conform to the shape of the wheel.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Sprung said:


> The crowning isn't in the tire, but in the wheel itself on most bandsaws. So even if the tire is a little off, the wheel will still be crowned exactly where it needs to be and the tire, which is a uniform thickness across the width, will conform to the shape of the wheel.



Aha! I just looked closer at the wheel on mine where the tire is off, I hadn't noticed this crown in the metal before. Thanks!

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## Brink (Aug 13, 2017)

Hope this isn't the type of tire @Mike1950 was thinking about.

Reactions: Funny 5


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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Oh, for he's a jolly good felloe, he's a jolly good felloe ... which nobody can deny.

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## Mike1950 (Aug 13, 2017)

Brink said:


> Hope this isn't the type of tire @Mike1950 was thinking about.
> 
> View attachment 132552


Grrrrrr

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## Nature Man (Aug 13, 2017)

I recently popped a tire, and contacted Jet directly for a replacement after I discovered that tires from Amazon and Carter come in different widths than the ones on my Jet bandsaw. Just received them in the mail (decided to replace both at same time), but haven't replaced them yet. The new ones are white! Appreciate the tips on easing up the replacement job.

Chuck

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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

And as if by magic, here's what arrived on my doorstep as I was doing the Sunday crossword ... that's the rest of my day planned out.

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## Lou Currier (Aug 13, 2017)

Here are the ones for future reference. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350617386120

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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

That really wasn't so difficult -- just needed 3 clamps to hold it fast as I worked my way around.

Now I have to get the screw holding the top thrust bearing loose -- without stripping the screw head, which seems to be a real possibility. A week of WD40 might help.

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## Tony (Aug 13, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> That really wasn't so difficult -- just needed 3 clamps to hold it fast as I worked my way around.
> 
> Now I have to get the screw holding the top thrust bearing loose -- without stripping the screw head, which seems to be a real possibility. A week of WD40 might help.
> 
> ...



Duncan, you might want to try something other than WD40. Get one that is a penetrating spray. Tony


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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Tony said:


> Duncan, you might want to try something other than WD40. Get one that is a penetrating spray. Tony


Oh, I thought WD40 is a penetrating oil ... what would you recommend instead?


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## Tony (Aug 13, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Oh, I thought WD40 is a penetrating oil ... what would you recommend instead?



I knew you were going to ask that! I can't remember the name of what I use, I have it in my work van, will let you know tomorrow. Get it at Home Depot. Tony

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## Sprung (Aug 13, 2017)

Best thing I've found for getting stuck screws/bolts loose is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Works well even on bolts that have been rusted together for decades - for that task of beating the rust I put a little on, let it soak in, and do that once or twice a day for a couple weeks and they come out super easy.

Otherwise, if you're looking for a spray, PB Blaster has been my spray of choice (heavily influenced by it being my repairman father's spray of choice.)


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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Sprung said:


> Best thing I've found for getting stuck screws/bolts loose is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Works well even on bolts that have been rusted together for decades - for that task of beating the rust I put a little on, let it soak in, and do that once or twice a day for a couple weeks and they come out super easy.
> 
> Otherwise, if you're looking for a spray, PB Blaster has been my spray of choice (heavily influenced by it being my repairman father's spray of choice.)



Thanks! I actually have both acetone and ATF on hand (I use ATF as lube when drilling and threading acrylics, ebonite, celluloid, etc. -- can't remember where I picked that up, maybe on a hobby machinist forum.)

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## Lou Currier (Aug 13, 2017)

@duncsuss where do you get replacement circle pieces for the table where the blade goes through...having a moment and can't remember the name of it


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## Tony (Aug 13, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> @duncsuss where do you get replacement circle pieces for the table where the blade goes through...having a moment and can't remember the name of it



Lou, you can get them Rockler or Woodcraft.

@duncsuss , PB Blaster is the brand I use, Matt's post reminded me! Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tony (Aug 13, 2017)

@Lou Currier 

https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Bandsaw+table+insert


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## Lou Currier (Aug 13, 2017)

Tony said:


> @Lou Currier
> 
> https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Bandsaw+table+insert



Ok..help a DA out...what size do I need?


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## Tony (Aug 13, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> Ok..help a DA out...what size do I need?



What brand do you have?


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## duncsuss (Aug 13, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> Ok..help a DA out...what size do I need?



As Tony says, the size you need depends on the saw you own.

I bought the Carter Products inserts, which are not pre-cut for the saw blade to pass through. You insert them with the saw running (very carefully!) and it creates a zero-clearance which reduces chip-out, etc. as the blade exits the workpiece.

THIS ONE fits my saw _*(edit: or maybe this is for the Delta saw, mine might be the Jet version)*_

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## Lou Currier (Aug 14, 2017)

I have the rigid 14" saw


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## Tony (Aug 14, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> I have the rigid 14" saw



Lou, I can't figure out which one your saw takes. When you can, measure the OD and the size of the bottom, should have a lip on it. Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> I have the rigid 14" saw



I think that will be the same saw as me -- here's the underside of the Carter Products one that fits my saw, it has a letter "J" moulded into it. Not sure that will help unless you're in a store and can look at the item.


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## Tony (Aug 14, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> I think that will be the same saw as me -- here's the underside of the Carter Products one that fits my saw, it has a letter "J" moulded into it. Not sure that will help unless you're in a store and can look at the item.
> 
> View attachment 132621



Duncan, what are the measurements on yours? Tony


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## Tony (Aug 14, 2017)

@Lou Currier 

If Duncan is right then here's the one from Woodcraft
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ps-wood-3-bandsaw-table-insert

If you want to get the ones from Carter then it's this one

http://www.carterproducts.com/accuright-table-inserts-for-jet-14


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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Tony said:


> Duncan, what are the measurements on yours? Tony


O.D. is a very snug 2+1/2" (my digital calipers say its 2+65/128" but when I set the jaws at 2+1/2 I can squeeze the disk into the gap)

The inner thicker section is 1+13/16" diameter.


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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Tony said:


> @Lou Currier
> 
> If Duncan is right then here's the one from Woodcraft
> https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ps-wood-3-bandsaw-table-insert
> ...




Looks right


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## Tony (Aug 14, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Looks right



After I posted I looked a little more and it seems rigid uses the Jet style, so the ones I posted will work. Tony


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## Lou Currier (Aug 14, 2017)

@duncsuss yes I have the same saw that you have. I don't have a fence for it...any suggestions?


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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Lou Currier said:


> @duncsuss yes I have the same saw that you have. I don't have a fence for it...any suggestions?


I don't have a real fence -- I use one of those clamp/guide things that are normally used on panel goods to guide a circular saw. It stands about 1/2" high, which is plenty for cutting up pen blanks but not for resaw work.

One I've looked at is this Carter Magfence. I like that it can be completely removed (no runners front and back permanently bolted to the table) so it's not in the way when I'm cutting bowl blanks, and there's an add-on tall fence for resawing.


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## Mike1950 (Aug 14, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> As Tony says, the size you need depends on the saw you own.
> 
> I bought the Carter Products inserts, which are not pre-cut for the saw blade to pass through. You insert them with the saw running (very carefully!) and it creates a zero-clearance which reduces chip-out, etc. as the blade exits the workpiece.
> 
> THIS ONE fits my saw _*(edit: or maybe this is for the Delta saw, mine might be the Jet version)*_



= Thinking this is a method definitely has it's hazards. I cut it with hand saw and then put it in. Your method sorta breaks  fingers vs distance from moving blade rule....

Reactions: Agree 1 | Useful 1


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## Tony (Aug 14, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> = Thinking this is a method that definitely has it's hazards. I cut it with hand saw and then put it in. Your method sorta breaks  fingers vs distance from moving blade rule....



When i did mine I stuck a 1" wide strip of wood to it with double-sided tape and pushed it through that way. Tony

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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> = Thinking this is a method that definitely has it's hazards. I cut it with hand saw and then put it in. Your method sorta breaks  fingers vs distance from moving blade rule....


Fair comment -- I didn't think about it. I'll do it that way from now on.

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## Mike1950 (Aug 14, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Fair comment -- I didn't think about it. I'll do it that way from now on.



Sorry Duncan- maybe should have kept my big mouth shut but I would hate to see someone get hurt because I kept mouth shut. I use a 2-3 TPI maybe with a fine blade but I get nervous close to blade....


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## duncsuss (Aug 14, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> Sorry Duncan- maybe should have kept my big mouth shut but I would hate to see someone get hurt because I kept mouth shut. I use a 2-3 TPI maybe with a fine blade but I get nervous close to blade....



No apology necessary -- if you (or anyone) see something I've written which is dangerous, please call it to my attention. I'd rather be told I'm wrong than missing a digit.

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