# Coloring with artist oils



## barry richardson (Feb 7, 2014)

Some folks were curious when I mentioned I used artist oils on wood. There is really not much to it. They sell them at Michael's and those type places. I have been using some that an oil painter gave, don't know if one brand is better than another. After the wood is well sanded (the pigment will bring out scratch marks) wipe it on. You can put it on thick for intense color, but I like to wipe some off so the grain shows through. If you wipe too much off, just put more back on. It is pretty foolproof. It takes a couple of days to dry. I have used both CA and lacquer over it with no problem, never tried an oil finish over it. Mostly I have just used it with pens so far, and a couple of finials. We have also used it at work to make some intarsia type signage that needed to be colorful. Cant say if it will make the grain or figure pop more on curly wood, I have always used it to jazz up plain wood, or simply get a desired color. Couple of silky oak pens I used it on below.

Reactions: Like 6 | Way Cool 4


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## NYWoodturner (Feb 7, 2014)

Very cool Barry - Thanks for sharing!


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## Mike1950 (Feb 7, 2014)

Nice pens Barry- Great info.


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## Molokai (Feb 7, 2014)

Very creative! Have you tried to use acrylic type colors? 
Kevin, do you have a number of Wood Police, color wood squad?

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 1


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## barry richardson (Feb 8, 2014)

Molokai said:


> Very creative! Have you tried to use acrylic type colors?
> Kevin, do you have a number of Wood Police, color wood squad?


Haven't used acrylics, but seems like a good idea, since it would dry much faster....

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Final Strut (Feb 9, 2014)

Awesome. Thanks for posting. Nice looking pens. I have been kicking around getting some of those kits.


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## WoodLove (Feb 10, 2014)

Barry, thanks so much for the info....... I have some fiddleback crepe myrtle I will try this technique on......


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## manbuckwal (Feb 10, 2014)

Very nice looking ! Fun experiment


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## Hawker 1 (Feb 11, 2014)

Good info. I have been trying to get a deep blood red on a small box, like Mike's tea boxes , using leather dye and has not worked out very well . I have been told to sand and seal first and then add dye. I tried the dye before sanding and after sanding on scrap. It changes everytime. Now I am going to try sanding and sealing and then dye. Maybe now I will also try your artist colors . Using more scrap and I am starting to run out of scrap. Thanks.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Hawker 1 (Feb 13, 2014)

Got the artist oils and man o man it is working out perfect for the color I wanted . Thanks a whole lot for the info. As for the drying time well I am not in a hurry anyway but might try the lowest setting on the oven and see how that might speed up the dry time. Thanks a big O whole lot. I guess I am not to old to learn .

Reactions: Like 1


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## barry richardson (Feb 13, 2014)

Good deal! It's a nice trick to have in your bag...... Be careful with the oven thing though, it could cause your box to crack or warp....


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## Hawker 1 (Feb 13, 2014)

ok


barry richardson said:


> Good deal! It's a nice trick to have in your bag...... Be careful with the oven thing though, it could cause your box to crack or warp....


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## Fret440 (Feb 13, 2014)

I may have to try this. Seems like a good, and possibly low cost, alternative to ordering expensive dyes and such from luthier supply stores. Especially if the color doesn't fade over time.

Jacob


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## Hawker 1 (Feb 13, 2014)

You were right it did warp one side a little . I think I can clamp it down enough to hold . I hope.


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## Terry Summerville (Apr 11, 2014)

I have a couple of questions about this. #1 how well did you sand the pen before adding the color? #2 did you apply the color against the grain while it was still on the mandrel, or take it off and apply the color?

I am really interested in trying this.


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## barry richardson (Apr 12, 2014)

Terry Summerville said:


> I have a couple of questions about this. #1 how well did you sand the pen before adding the color? #2 did you apply the color against the grain while it was still on the mandrel, or take it off and apply the color?
> 
> I am really interested in trying this.


I take the blanks off and wipe the oils on with a cloth, you really can't screw it up, it is very forgiving. You can rub some off for a lighter color, or leave more on for a more intense color. The only drawback, as I said, it that the oils take a few days to dry. Then put them back on the mandrel and apply the finish of your choice.


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## barry richardson (Apr 12, 2014)

BTW I have a slew of silky oak/lacewood pen blanks (like in my pictures) if you want to try that, they make for a pretty neat effect with the oils


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## SDB777 (Apr 12, 2014)

Barry, have you ever used this method on larger pieces...say bowls of 8" or larger?


Scott (got me thinkin'....OUCH!) B


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## barry richardson (Apr 12, 2014)

SDB777 said:


> Barry, have you ever used this method on larger pieces...say bowls of 8" or larger?
> 
> 
> Scott (got me thinkin'....OUCH!) B


I haven't, but I'm confident it would work fine...


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## Terry Summerville (Apr 12, 2014)

Thanks Barry. I have a few blanks I'm not real crazy about...maybe I can actually use them for something now.


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