# Finally!



## norman vandyke (Mar 26, 2017)

Thanks to a good tax return, I can finally afford a good belt grinder. Already ordered the grinder.

 Not sure what motor to get. Any recommendations? Also, best place to get belts?

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 5


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 26, 2017)

Nice! I'm partial to Baldor motors but there a plenty of good ones out there. I would definitely recommend a variable speed controller. 
I get most of my belts from either Jantz supply or USAknife maker.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## rocky1 (Mar 26, 2017)

Looks interesting! You do the fabricating Norm?


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## norman vandyke (Mar 26, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> Looks interesting! You do the fabricating Norm?


Goodness no! I don't even own a welder. I just ordered it. Not even in my possession yet. Ordered a variable speed switch and a v belt pulley to connect to the grinder. @NYWoodturner Waiting to hear back on a grizzly motor. Those Baldor's look great but a little out of my range right now, especially with all the other stuff I need get. What are your feelings on grizzly motors?


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 26, 2017)

Nevet owned one, but I'm not aware of any problems. @woodtickgreg would be the man to consult.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Wildthings (Mar 26, 2017)

Preferred Abrasives.com This is a great starter deal -- Starter Kit

Congrats on the new toy! I got this one 3 months ago and haven't taken it out of the box yet since we were right in the middle of a move 

AMK-77

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## wyowoodwrker (Mar 26, 2017)

Combat abrasives makes some good stuff. Ceramic ones last longer than aluminum oxide belts.


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## robert flynt (Mar 26, 2017)

Norm, If you are going to vary the speed the speed, which I suggest, there is three ways to go. You can get multi-groove sheaves for the motor and grinder. You can get a DC motor and DC variable speed drive or you can get a 3 phase motor and a frequency drive. Make sure the A/C motor is drive rated. You can't vary the speed of a of a single phase A/C motor because of the start capacitor but you can use it on the multi-groove sheath set up. You should get at least a one and a half HP motor. KB Pinta is a good brand drive. A TEC motor is better than a open drip proof because of the metal dust.


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## norman vandyke (Mar 26, 2017)

robert flynt said:


> Norm, If you are going to vary the speed the speed, which I suggest, there is three ways to go. You can get multi-groove sheaves for the motor and grinder. You can get a DC motor and DC variable speed drive or you can get a 3 phase motor and a frequency drive. Make sure the A/C motor is drive rated. You can't vary the speed of a of a single phase A/C motor because of the start capacitor but you can use it on the multi-groove sheath set up. You should get at least a one and a half HP motor. KB Pinta is a good brand drive. A TEC motor is better than a open drip proof because of the metal dust.


Thank you! I already ordered the variable speed knob doohickey. I need to get a multi phase motor for that to be of any use? I'm definitely considering the multigroove pulley on the motor to vary speed. I had my eye on a 1 hp motor. Glad to know I'll be needing more.


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## NeilYeag (Mar 26, 2017)

Very nice looking. I am sure it will make you very productive.


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## norman vandyke (Mar 26, 2017)

I'm thinking about this motor http://www.naemotors.com/product-category/electric-motors/rolled-steel/single-phase-56c-frame-tefc/ . Mistake?

Reactions: Informative 1


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## norman vandyke (Mar 27, 2017)

When it comes to the motor, what important if I'm going with single phase? Hp, torque, rpms? Trying to get the best one I can for my price range, which I'd like to keep around $225 or less. Also only have 110v available or I'd be going for 3 phase.


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## rocky1 (Mar 27, 2017)

Well... What did you order for a "variable speed knob doohickey"? 

If by chance that refers to a Variable Frequency Drive, the drive and motor have to be properly sized to each other.


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## norman vandyke (Mar 27, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> Well... What did you order for a "variable speed knob doohickey"?
> 
> If by chance that refers to a Variable Frequency Drive, the drive and motor have to be properly sized to each other.


Yeah, I got a little ahead of myself and don't need it now. It's a variable voltage switch with a dial to change input. Don't think it will work.


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## rocky1 (Mar 27, 2017)

Well you could save a little by picking up a used good motor...

1 hp Leeson DC - EBay Run you around $250 with shipping.

Then pick up a Variable Frequency Drive to go with it...

KB VFD - EBay (_The guys there at Chiswick Electric are going to try and sell you an RAE motor to go with that, which will cost about the same thing NEW as the used Leeson. But they are going to want to talk to you before they'll ship it, to make sure you have the right drive for your motor._) 

I don't know anything about the KB drive or the RAE motor, but I do know the Leeson Permanent Magnet DC motors are one bad ass motor. That's what Cowen put on their honey extracting systems for years, they may still use Leesons, I honestly don't know. The one on ours has extracted close to a half million pounds of honey annually for the last 11 years. It's been off once, 3 years ago; thought it had a short in it, carried it to the motor shop, tested weird, he blew the carbon dust out of it (_from the brushes_), hooked it back up, called me and said it was ready to go. Brushes were still fine, blowing the dust out cleared all issues, tested like a new motor once cleaned up. Put it back on, haven't had a minutes trouble out of it since.


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## robert flynt (Mar 28, 2017)

norman vandyke said:


> I'm thinking about this motor http://www.naemotors.com/product-category/electric-motors/rolled-steel/single-phase-56c-frame-tefc/ . Mistake?


Remember, you can't slow a single phase motor down or vary the speed because it will cause the start capicator to reingage and you will wind up with a burned start winding.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## robert flynt (Mar 28, 2017)

If you get a DC motor the variable speed drive will be less expensive than one for a 3 phase motor. You will need 220v single phase power if you are going to vary the speed of the motor. Might not hurt to get an electrician who is familiar with motor wiring to help you with your selection. PS, The KB drive is a very good drive. Leeson makes decent drive also but they have to be rated for the horse power of the motor and I don't think you will be happy with anything less than 1- 1/2 HP.


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## rocky1 (Mar 28, 2017)

Actually, that KB drive says it will run 115/230 Volt single phase AC input power, and will run up to 1.5 hp 180 VDC motor Robert.



> *This control accepts 115/230 VAC, 1 phase input and will control the speed of a DC motor up to 3/4 HP, 90 VDC or 1.5 HP, 180VDC. *



I just shot you at the 1 hp Leeson motor because it looked like a steal Norm. It was about $100 less than the cheapest 1.5 horse I found. Robert has certainly ground a whole lot more knives than I have, and I'll definitely bow to his wisdom there.

I would likewise recommend you have an electrician come hook it up, inquire if he's familiar with DC drives before he gets there; try to find one that is. Most electricians up there in the rural areas are familiar with them, because they get to work on the occasional irrigator drive. In fact Allan might be familiar enough to assist if he's close one weekend. Start up is not always plug and play on these things unless you buy a matched pair and they set them up and dial them in before shipping. There are at times adjustments that have to be made, and your reference to "variable speed knob doohickeys" suggests you might encounter a problem or two there. Tech support is typically great on that kind of stuff, IF you've played with it enough to know what questions to ask, have a good digital volt/ohm meter, can follow instructions well, and know when to drop bat guana and run!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## norman vandyke (Apr 2, 2017)

It's here!!! Grinder, check! 2hp motor, check! 4 step pulley, check! Single 2" pulley, check! Sanding belts, check! Waiting on power cord and v belt. Not going to be setting it up immediately though. My shop needs some serious cleaning and setting up my grinder is going to be a nice reward for the job. Also, I need to build a new bench to hold the beast. Oh, does anyone have an opinion on bevel jigs? I'd like to have one but I don't think I'm mechanically inclined enough to build it. Buying one isn't out of the question but why are they so expensive?

 



On a different note, I have also ordered just about everything I need to make an electric forge(kiln). K-23 fire bricks, ceramic insulation, power cord, ceramic wire connectors and kenthal A1 wire. Just need to source some cheap outer bricks and framing locally. Wish me luck on the forge build. I should probably get some forging tongs and thick leather gloves while I'm at it.


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## NYWoodturner (Apr 2, 2017)

Congrats Norm! Nice haul. That has to suck waiting on a power cord  

I wasted a lot if time trying to build jigs and wasted even more money trying to buy a pre-made one. When I finally hit my stride grinding was when I just started grinding by hand. 
My recommendation would be to start that learning curve right away and avoid the rest of the pain.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## robert flynt (Apr 2, 2017)

norman vandyke said:


> It's here!!! Grinder, check! 2hp motor, check! 4 step pulley, check! Single 2" pulley, check! Sanding belts, check! Waiting on power cord and v belt. Not going to be setting it up immediately though. My shop needs some serious cleaning and setting up my grinder is going to be a nice reward for the job. Also, I need to build a new bench to hold the beast. Oh, does anyone have an opinion on bevel jigs? I'd like to have one but I don't think I'm mechanically inclined enough to build it. Buying one isn't out of the question but why are they so expensive?View attachment 125614 View attachment 125615
> 
> On a different note, I have also ordered just about everything I need to make an electric forge(kiln). K-23 fire bricks, ceramic insulation, power cord, ceramic wire connectors and kenthal A1 wire. Just need to source some cheap outer bricks and framing locally. Wish me luck on the forge build. I should probably get some forging tongs and thick leather gloves while I'm at it.


Not sure what the K23 fire brick is but the most commonly used brick are the white soft bricks used in boilers good for 2300 to 2400 deg. These bricks can be cut with a table saw and can be slotted so the heating element can be recessed in to the brick so there is no danger of making contact with it with a blade. Once the brick are motared together with a very thin layer of fire brick mortar you shouldn't need much more than wrapping it with 16 gauge stainless sheet metal. You will need to get a very good temp. control with built end timer matched with the proper thermacouple.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## norman vandyke (Apr 2, 2017)

robert flynt said:


> Not sure what the K23 fire brick is but the most commonly used brick are the white soft bricks used in boilers good for 2300 to 2400 deg. These bricks can be cut with a table saw and can be slotted so the heating element can be recessed in to the brick so there is no danger of making contact with it with a blade. Once the brick are motared together with a very thin layer of fire brick mortar you shouldn't need much more than wrapping it with 16 gauge stainless sheet metal. You will need to get a very good temp. control with built end timer matched with the proper thermacouple.


K23 is soft and can take 2700°F. I have ceramic fiber insulation to cover those bricks and am going to get some plain concrete bricks to wrap it all up before I frame it with angle iron. How do I go about making a door for the front and what temp probes will actually last?


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## robert flynt (Apr 3, 2017)

If you look at the Evenheat Knife Kilns it will give you an idea as to how make yours. Orton makes a good controller and thermocouple. If you think you must wrap it with bricks I would use fire place brick.


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## norman vandyke (Apr 3, 2017)

robert flynt said:


> If you look at the Evenheat Knife Kilns it will give you an idea as to how make yours. Orton makes a good controller and thermocouple. If you think you must wrap it with bricks I would use fire place brick.


I think the fire bricks and fiber wrap will do to hold in the heat. I was just going to use concrete bricks to keep me from burning myself.


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