# what 1/2 bowl gouge should i get?



## elnino (Mar 12, 2013)

so basically i want to something that stays sharp a long time and that i can make my own handle for it.

salad bowls and smaller for the most part is what i'll be using them for.


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## Mike Mills (Mar 12, 2013)

I have a lot of Sorby's and they work for me.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=tools-srby-unh

These two are some that seems to get very high ratings from everyone who has them. Almost like being home, home on the range when you read post.

http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/products.asp

http://www.d-waytools.com/tools-gouges.html

Note: If you do go with Sorby or any other UK made bowl gouge they are sized differently (Hamlet, Crown, Ashley Iles, Sorby others). UK’s are sized by the flute and US are sized by the shaft diameter.
A UK made 3/8 = US 1/2 or 1/2 UK = 5/8 US. (or about 1/8 larger). This applies to bowl gouges and not spindle gouges. If going with a UK I would go with 3/8.


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## Vern Tator (Mar 12, 2013)

My favorite is the d-way. Holds an edge longer than any other. In fact, I haven't met anyone who has used one that would go back to their old one.


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## TimR (Mar 12, 2013)

I'd have to second that. I'm on my 2nd 1/2" BG from Dave at DWay. 
The polished flutes may be the key to developing a keen edge, and they do seem to stay sharper. For often used gouges...I'd stay away from lesser gouges that are simply HSS. 
Only reason to have some HSS gouges around are for special grinds for work that you don't do alot of, i.e transition grinds for bowls that have shallow grinding typical of how alot of gouges come pre-ground. I'll even add micro-bevel (may be a Jimmy Clewes expression) to provide more relief on a gouge for doing the transitions on bowls and avoid over burnishing of the wood in that area.

One suggestion...consider or tryout a nicely weighted metal handle, a popular version is ones of aluminum and steel with rubber reinforced hose skin, and other variations. If you use of those, you'll be hard pressed IMHO to put a wooden handle gouge in your hands for spending alot of time with a particular tool. Also...makes it much easier to remove the tool when ready to change.


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## DKMD (Mar 12, 2013)

I'm a fan of the Thompson tools, but Dway and Sorby are both nice tools as well... I own some of all of them. I don't think you can go wrong with any of those suggested. Glaser has a good reputation as well, but they come handled and prices are higher than the others.

I agree with Tim about the metal handles... I've been slowly collecting Thompson handles, and I have a Monster handle as well. I prefer metal to wood, but there are folks who are just the opposite.


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 12, 2013)

TimR said:


> I'll even add micro-bevel (may be a Jimmy Clewes expression)



 You are right ! Jimmy is the only one I have ever heard use that term. I haven't thought of it until you said it, but I do believe you are correct. 
He is a big believer in a micro-bevel though - he must have 6 quarter inch gouges with that grind - and he uses them religiously 
Scott


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## elnino (Mar 13, 2013)

cool thanks for all the advice i think i'm going to get the dway.

man 75 bucks and 14 shipping kinda killer but should last a lifetime...wait someone is on their second!!! :P.

i'll need to sell bowls just to afford to turn them.


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