# Milling Bar



## JR Custom Calls

I was hoping @woodtickgreg or @Kevin .. or anyone else with experience with these bars might have some input. 

My 36" bar I use for milling is toast. I had kind of considered upgrading to a 42" bar so I could max out my 36" mill, but I really don't expect I'll need it very often (if at all), and that's just more chain to spin. I have no clue what brand bar I currently have, it was stripped of all paint and no identifying markings on the bar except the specs. I have an Oregon Powermatch 28" that I use for general stuff, but I need to get a new dedicated milling bar. I'm comparing the Powermatch to the Carlton Speedtip. Same specs (3/8 pitch, .063 gauge), but there's about $25 difference in the two. Any thoughts as to whether the Oregon is really better? Or is it just the name? I have no issue spending the $110 on the Oregon if it's truly a better bar that's going to hold up over time better. I just don't want to waste $25 if they're of equal quality. 

Next question is whether the Cannon Superbar is really that much better (twice the price). I know a lot of this all boils down to maintenance, which I am pretty good at (flipping over routinely, greasing the nose sprocket, cleaning the oil holes, and checking the rails for burrs).


I've been using a skip chain. My old chain is a .404 .063 full chisel that I ground down to 10 degrees, then 5 degrees, which I ultimately found to cut better. I've read a few people say that the Granberg ripping chain is a lot faster than regular chain that has been ground down, but I can't seem to find anything to back that up other than a couple people saying it. @Treecycle Hardwoods what do you use on that 50" bar?


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## Kevin

I don't have near as much CSM experince as the 2 Gregs so I'll defer to them on the specific bars. The only thing I know is that I stole my milling bars. They are all GB Professional Titanium that I bought from a guy that worked at the factory supposedly. For example I paid $99 for my six foot bar. I didnt ask any questions. 

The only bar that is superior to GB that I know of is Sugihara but I dont think they make long bars for milling. 32" is the longest Sugi I have ever seen.

That's not to say other manufacturers bars are not good but I have no milling experience with anything but GB Pro Tit. Also, I stand to be corrected but I believe guide bars ade sort of like car batteries ... there's only a handful of manufacturers and tbey private label. That's what I have heard dont take it as gospel.


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## JR Custom Calls

Kevin said:


> I paid $99 for my six foot bar


Wanna make $50? :)

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Treecycle Hardwoods

JR Custom Calls said:


> I was hoping @woodtickgreg or @Kevin .. or anyone else with experience with these bars might have some input.
> 
> My 36" bar I use for milling is toast. I had kind of considered upgrading to a 42" bar so I could max out my 36" mill, but I really don't expect I'll need it very often (if at all), and that's just more chain to spin. I have no clue what brand bar I currently have, it was stripped of all paint and no identifying markings on the bar except the specs. I have an Oregon Powermatch 28" that I use for general stuff, but I need to get a new dedicated milling bar. I'm comparing the Powermatch to the Carlton Speedtip. Same specs (3/8 pitch, .063 gauge), but there's about $25 difference in the two. Any thoughts as to whether the Oregon is really better? Or is it just the name? I have no issue spending the $110 on the Oregon if it's truly a better bar that's going to hold up over time better. I just don't want to waste $25 if they're of equal quality.
> 
> Next question is whether the Cannon Superbar is really that much better (twice the price). I know a lot of this all boils down to maintenance, which I am pretty good at (flipping over routinely, greasing the nose sprocket, cleaning the oil holes, and checking the rails for burrs).
> 
> 
> I've been using a skip chain. My old chain is a .404 .063 full chisel that I ground down to 10 degrees, then 5 degrees, which I ultimately found to cut better. I've read a few people say that the Granberg ripping chain is a lot faster than regular chain that has been ground down, but I can't seem to find anything to back that up other than a couple people saying it. @Treecycle Hardwoods what do you use on that 50" bar?


I use a regular ripping chain with a very low angle grind on them that is stock when I get them. My local small engine shop has it on a spool and make em up for me when I need them.

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg

Ok here we go...... I use a baileys double ended bar on my csm, I have milled thousands of board feet with it and it is still going, as a matter of fact it has outlived the powerhead. I have gone through about 6 chains with it. I run ,404 .063 chain as well. Now here is the key to making a bar last, you have already touched on some. I run an aux oiler that is a gravity feed unit so that both sides of the bar are lubed. You will have to drill a hole in one end of the bar for the oiler, do this at the slowest speed your drill press will run and use lots of oil as the bars are hardened. I run a helper handle on the outboard end of the bar because it has a roller bearing in it and really reduces friction. I run both styles of chain, both milling/ripping chain and regular skip tooth that I regrind to a new 15 degree ish angle. Most ripping chains are 10 degree. I think with a properly tuned husky power head I could increase the angle even more to get a faster cut. Regular milling chain is sloooow. If you are considering going with a longer bar then do add the aux oiler and the helper handle. Bailey's used to sell them and still may, that's where I got mine, or Granberg will have them. Look for the thread I did with duckman, I think it was called milling duckwood. You can see my rig in those pics. If I had to choose a regular bar I would choose the Oregon over the Carlton, yes they are better. Carlton stuff is cheap for a reason (chinese). But do look at baileys double ended bars and add the aux oiler and helper handle, well worth the small investment for milling. Order the bar longer than you want as the oiler and helper handle will take up some of the bar. like 5 or 6 inches.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Great Post 1 | Informative 2


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## woodtickgreg

Here's the link to the thread so you can see pics of my rig. I think there was a day 2 and 3 as well as a milling a duckwood giant if I remember correctly.

http://woodbarter.com/threads/milling-duckwood-day-1.8851/


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## JR Custom Calls

woodtickgreg said:


> Ok here we go...... I use a baileys double ended bar on my csm, I have milled thousands of board feet with it and it is still going, as a matter of fact it has outlived the powerhead. I have gone through about 6 chains with it. I run ,404 .063 chain as well. Now here is the key to making a bar last, you have already touched on some. I run an aux oiler that is a gravity feed unit so that both sides of the bar are lubed. You will have to drill a hole in one end of the bar for the oiler, do this at the slowest speed your drill press will run and use lots of oil as the bars are hardened. I run a helper handle on the outboard end of the bar because it has a roller bearing in it and really reduces friction. I run both styles of chain, both milling/ripping chain and regular skip tooth that I regrind to a new 15 degree ish angle. Most ripping chains are 10 degree. I think with a properly tuned husky power head I could increase the angle even more to get a faster cut. Regular milling chain is sloooow. If you are considering going with a longer bar then do add the aux oiler and the helper handle. Bailey's used to sell them and still may, that's where I got mine, or Granberg will have them. Look for the thread I did with duckman, I think it was called milling duckwood. You can see my rig in those pics. If I had to choose a regular bar I would choose the Oregon over the Carlton, yes they are better. Carlton stuff is cheap for a reason (chinese). But do look at baileys double ended bars and add the aux oiler and helper handle, well worth the small investment for milling. Order the bar longer than you want as the oiler and helper handle will take up some of the bar. like 5 or 6 inches.


Awesome info. Looks like the granberg double ended bar is a bit more than I can swing at the moment ($330 for the 44"), so Oregon is likely the way I'll go. I had planned to add an aux oiler (a jug with a nipple, with a short piece of tubing) but hadn't figured out how to get it in to the bar. I'll have to take a look at Lowes and see if I can find something that'll work. If I ever get in to some bigger logs, I may look at getting the longer bar with a helper handle.I wish I could swing one now, but with trying to fix all the small crap around the house so we can sell, I don't have much of a budget to work with.


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## JR Custom Calls

woodtickgreg said:


> Here's the link to the thread so you can see pics of my rig. I think there was a day 2 and 3 as well as a milling a duckwood giant if I remember correctly.
> 
> http://woodbarter.com/threads/milling-duckwood-day-1.8851/


That's awesome. Is that a McCulloch?


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## EastmansWoodturning

I use Cannon bars for my milling and have been happy with them


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## JR Custom Calls

Kevin said:


> I stand to be corrected but I believe guide bars ade sort of like car batteries ... there's only a handful of manufacturers and tbey private label.


I think you're right. I know I've seen that Husqvarna bars and chain are made by Oregon, I believe Echo as well. Wonder who makes Stihl bars and chain? 



EastmansWoodturning said:


> I use Cannon bars for my milling and have been happy with them


I've been looking at them more and more. I just have to wonder if they're really worth twice as much? If they last at least twice as long, sure. That's the big question though. I think it would all boil down to who is using them. I haven't totally decided against one yet, but I'm definitely leaning more heavily towards the Oregon bar.


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## DavidDobbs

I run stock Stihl bars on my CSM's
I have had good luck with them.
I can get 36" & 48" at a couple local places at any given time.
I dress the bar every other time I mill.
I have only ever had two bars.
Now that I have my band mill I don't use the CSM as much. 
I cut my big carriage CSM up a couple weeks ago.
It is now a cattle feeder.....lol
Dave

Reactions: Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg

JR Custom Calls said:


> That's awesome. Is that a McCulloch?


It was an old McCulloch, 100cc made by partner in Germany, an all metal saw. It threw a lower rod bearing after 20 years of use and parts cannot be had for it anymore. The bar I use is a woodsman pro double ended bar from Bailey's, it was far cheaper than the other brands and has proven to be very tough. The fitting that you drill the bar for can also be purchased from Bailey's, it feeds oil directly into the groove in the bar.

Reactions: Like 1


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## JR Custom Calls

woodtickgreg said:


> It was an old McCulloch, 100cc made by partner in Germany, an all metal saw. It threw a lower rod bearing after 20 years of use and parts cannot be had for it anymore. The bar I use is a woodsman pro double ended bar from Bailey's, it was far cheaper than the other brands and has proven to be very tough. The fitting that you drill the bar for can also be purchased from Bailey's, it feeds oil directly into the groove in the bar.


Doesn't look like Woodsman pro bars are available any longer. I've googled and googled them. I did find a thread on Arborist Site where several people said that Cannon made those bars.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg

JR Custom Calls said:


> Doesn't look like Woodsman pro bars are available any longer. I've googled and googled them. I did find a thread on Arborist Site where several people said that Cannon made those bars.


I think Bailey's sold so they may not carry the same stuff anymore.


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## brown down

I bought 2 33 in oregon bars when I built my mill 2 years ago on clearance at baileys for $20 a piece! I should have bought more for that price! IMO they are great bars!


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## JR Custom Calls

brown down said:


> I bought 2 33 in oregon bars when I built my mill 2 years ago on clearance at baileys for $20 a piece! I should have bought more for that price! IMO they are great bars!


That sounds like the deal I got on my 28" bar. I forget exactly, but it was something like $30... it was painted as an Oregon Pro, which they don't make anymore. Guess someone found a box of them in a warehouse somewhere.

I just ordered a 36" Cannon Superbar, two 115dl loops of ripping chain, and my saw shipped out yesterday to get ported.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## Kevin

JR Custom Calls said:


> my saw shipped out yesterday to get ported.



My saw shipped out back to me yesterday after already getting ported.

Reactions: Funny 3


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## JR Custom Calls

Kevin said:


> My saw shipped out back to me yesterday after already getting ported.


My saw will whip your saws rear end when it gets done... heck, probably already would lol.

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Kevin

My saw is smaller, nimbler, faster.

(and will still get its ass kicked by your 394 lol)

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## JR Custom Calls

Kevin said:


> My saw is smaller, nimbler, faster.
> 
> (and will still get its ass kicked by your 394 lol)


Haha... and despite mine kicking yours, you'll be the one laughing, as you walk away without the back pain of lugging around a 25+lb saw.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Kevin

JR Custom Calls said:


> Haha... and despite mine kicking yours, you'll be the one laughing, as you walk away without the back pain of lugging around a 25+lb saw.



Haha I have been lugging a 25+ lb saw off and on since I bought it in 2006. 






It would be interesting to get together after my 395 gets ported and run it beside your 394 both with new chains just alike. I bet there won't be a dime's worth of difference.

Reactions: Way Cool 2


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## JR Custom Calls

Holy crap. Is the the 6' bar you mentioned? 

Bring your saw up once you get it done... you can race me on some of the logs I have piled up... bring a CSM with ya


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## Kevin

I don't have a CSM always just free-handed everything like that. But I'm gettin too old for it I do need to build a mill for it.


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## JR Custom Calls

I really want to build something like @brown down made... but I've looked at videos of Lucas Mills, and those things are freaking slow.... make chainsaw milling look like a nascar vs amish cart. I haven't seen any videos (that I recall) of him milling any with his though.


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## Kevin

What do you mean that swing mills are slow? You mean the slabber attachment? Because a swing mill is a freaky efficient way to mill. And a slabber bar and chain do not know what kind of power plant or transfer mechanics are being applied to it, so I don't think an Alaskan has an advantage or disadvantage over a swing mill slabber bar. It's all in the chain configuration, species being cut, operator technique etc.

I have always wanted a swing mill with slabber as a perfect compliment to my band mill. Nothing cuts dimensional lumber faster than a swing mill excpet for maybe a scragg mill and that's mainly for shorts etc.


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## JR Custom Calls

I hadn't actually looked up Lucas Mills until you mentioned swing mill. I see now what you mean. I knew swing mills were a lot faster, but didn't realize that the lucas mills I had seen videos of were swing mills with an attachment on them for slabbing. 

Just seems like the videos I've seen the chain was moving really slow, and the cut speed was even slower. I can't find the exact video that had me thinking that, but I found this one. I know my saw cuts a lot quicker than this.


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## Kevin

I'd be willing to bet wombats to doughnuts that video is in Australia. If it is, that wood is probably one of the harder species on the planet. And look how wide it is. I doubt your mill or anyone's mill would be any faster on that log. This is what I mean about the species playing a major factor in milling speed. That ain't pine he's milling.

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## Kevin

Okay I don't think it's in Australia - not many JD there lol. But that wood seems hard as a rock.

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## brown down

JR Custom Calls said:


> I really want to build something like @brown down made... but I've looked at videos of Lucas Mills, and those things are freaking slow.... make chainsaw milling look like a nascar vs amish cart. I haven't seen any videos (that I recall) of him milling any with his though.



I have a slabbing chainsaw mill. I wish I had a LUCAS tho damn fine mills.. I have been tinkering with my mill for some time now. I think the cutting head is done for now just have to get the money together to build the bed frame out of steel. I did a semi permanent mock up out of pressure treated timber which I am glad I did as I have made some changes to it. I should be getting some oak logs shortly, I'll get some video of me running it then and post it up

Reactions: Like 1


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## JR Custom Calls

brown down said:


> I'll get some video of me running it then and post it up


Please do! 

I keep going back and wondering why I didn't try and buy the one @DavidDobbs had. Same basic principal, just chainsaw powered... but could have easily been converted to run off a vertical shaft engine.


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## DavidDobbs

@JR Custom Calls to late now it is almost a cattle feeder



 

My slabbing mill


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## Kevin

Great combo machine David. You could slab out some serious steaks with that.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## JR Custom Calls

DavidDobbs said:


> @JR Custom Calls to late now it is almost a cattle feeder
> 
> View attachment 84808
> 
> My slabbing mill


I know :(. I saw you say something about it the other day. Ugh


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## DavidDobbs

Sometimes just got to mooo v on

I still have my Alaskan style slabber.

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## JR Custom Calls

Happy mail day. Bar, chains, aux oiler bolt, 7 and 8 tooth rim sprockets, and new grinding wheel came in.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## JR Custom Calls

@Kevin or @woodtickgreg how close can I get to the nose with the oiler bolt? Or coukd I possibly put it in the nose? I clamp my mill right at the point where the bar and nose meet, so I'd like to keep the oiler on the nose side, there's a good 2" or so there to put it, but it seems all the pics and videos show then mounted a few inches down from the nose. Wasn't sure if there was a real reason not to go closer or not.


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## Kevin

Thats ne for Greg I have never ysed an aux oiler.


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## woodtickgreg

The reason that they are usually in the bar and not the nose is twofold. 1 is because the nose is really hard and about impossible to drill, 2 because you want the oil to flow in the groove of the bar so that the drive teeth can carry it along the bar. In th nose and the oil wants to spin around the sprocket. This is why I order my bars longer than I think I want, I lost about 6" of bar length with my aux oiler and helper handle/roller bearing. But I think my max cut is still around 34" or 36"


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## woodtickgreg

Did they supply you with instructions on how to drill your bar and where to place the oiler bolt? It's kind of a fine line, to close to the edge and the drive teeth will hit it and cause damage to the chain and bolt, to far in and the oil won't reach the groove in the bar. I'll take the middle papa bear, it's just right.


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## JR Custom Calls

Thanks Greg. I watched a video online where the guy measured the distance from the top of the rail until it bottomed out, made a line, then used the drill bit to mark the hole with the bit barely sticking over the line. That made sense.

Here's where I want to drill... Would that cause any issues? I'm not sure what the bar looks like without the nose on, so have no idea if that's going to cause an issue. They aren't measured or anything, just marked a rough idea of where I'd like em to be.


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## DavidDobbs

I don't use a extra oiler either. I just turn the oiler on the saw all the way up.

I run a 36" & 48"


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## woodtickgreg

JR Custom Calls said:


> Thanks Greg. I watched a video online where the guy measured the distance from the top of the rail until it bottomed out, made a line, then used the drill bit to mark the hole with the bit barely sticking over the line. That made sense.
> 
> Here's where I want to drill... Would that cause any issues? I'm not sure what the bar looks like without the nose on, so have no idea if that's going to cause an issue. They aren't measured or anything, just marked a rough idea of where I'd like em to be.
> 
> View attachment 85447


At those locations you will probably be drilling through the nose piece as well, it kinda fits into a pocket, like a tongue and groove. It can be done just with some difficulty. Use a drill press on the slowest speed and use lots of oil to cool the bit and provide lube. A carbide drill bit may be useful as well if you smoke a regular high speed steel bit. It might be some work to get this aux oiler set up but it will be worth it in the savings of wear and tear on your bar. I am still on my first one and believe me it has been used a lot and hard and it's still going strong.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## JR Custom Calls

woodtickgreg said:


> At those locations you will probably be drilling through the nose piece as well, it kinda fits into a pocket, like a tongue and groove. It can be done just with some difficulty. Use a drill press on the slowest speed and use lots of oil to cool the bit and provide lube. A carbide drill bit may be useful as well if you smoke a regular high speed steel bit. It might be some work to get this aux oiler set up but it will be worth it in the savings of wear and tear on your bar. I am still on my first one and believe me it has been used a lot and hard and it's still going strong.


Thanks Greg. I think I'm going to mount my bar on my mill then put the oiler bolt as close to the mill as I can without taking a chance of interfering. I may end up drilling my bar and mounting to my mill with a bolt, as I will have to remove my oiler bolt to put the bar in the mill. That will suck taking 4 bolts out every time... Plus I wouldn't have to remove the bar from the mill to take the chain off that way. Guess I'll see how drilling the oiler hole goes before making any commitments on that.


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## woodtickgreg

I hear your way of thinking, but removing four bolts has never been an issue for me. In fact I just carry a 1/2" ratcheting wrench in my pocket, it fits all the bolts on my mill, nice to have it in my pocket for a quick adjustment. I don't know if I would want to drill four more holes in my bar?


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## JR Custom Calls

woodtickgreg said:


> I hear your way of thinking, but removing four bolts has never been an issue for me. In fact I just carry a 1/2" ratcheting wrench in my pocket, it fits all the bolts on my mill, nice to have it in my pocket for a quick adjustment. I don't know if I would want to drill four more holes in my bar?


It would only be 2 if I did it the way I was thinking, but I can agree that drilling more holes than I have to is defintely not a good idea. My mill uses the same bolts as my saw, so both sizes can be adjusted with my scrench. I do carry a ratchet with a 1/2" socket on it though (one of those that the bolt can stick through so I can tighten any length bolt), so it wouldn't be too much work. I guess it's a good argument that I don't have to disassemble often. Not like I can't file the chain on the mill.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Matthew Jaynes

Kevin said:


> Haha I have been lugging a 25+ lb saw off and on since I bought it in 2006.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be interesting to get together after my 395 gets ported and run it beside your 394 both with new chains just alike. I bet there won't be a dime's worth of difference.



@Kevin is that you in the video ?


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## Kevin

Matthew Jaynes said:


> @Kevin is that you in the video ?



Yes but I was only 52 back then.


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## Matthew Jaynes

We look a lot alike o.o ever spent time in Houston 34 years ago ROFL! JKJK


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## Kevin

Matthew Jaynes said:


> We look a lot alike o.o ever spent time in Houston 34 years ago ROFL! JKJK



Actually was seeing a girl in Mobile in 1982 that was from Houston and moved back eventually!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Matthew Jaynes

I was born in 81 so I guess I'm not a long lost son

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Matthew Jaynes

All joking aside though, that's some awesome work free milling that lumber and that bar is rediculous

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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