# First pen



## Casey Botts (Oct 27, 2018)

Ok when I joined a few days ago several folks said they wanted to see pics. This is my first completed pen ( there were several attempts that didn’t turn out so well, but I still have all my digits) and here it is. Spalted Oak, which by the way was a piece of 3/4 hardwood floor in my in laws basement. It has a CA finish polished with McGuire’s swirl remover. Any tricks with the CA finish would be appreciated.

Reactions: Like 9 | Way Cool 3


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## jasonb (Oct 27, 2018)

Great job on the first one!


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## Tony (Oct 27, 2018)

Fine job Casey! I can't help you with the CA, Ido friction finishes on mine. @Sprung is the man to talk to on that.


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## Casey Botts (Oct 27, 2018)

Thanks for the encouragement!


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## Nature Man (Oct 28, 2018)

No way that can be your first! Gorgeous! Congrats! Chuck

Reactions: Agree 2


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 28, 2018)

@Schroedc I think Colin did a tutorial on applying a CA finish.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## ironman123 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nice job. Nice wood.


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## Casey Botts (Oct 28, 2018)

I made two others that didn’t quite make it to completion for on reason or another. I used those for practice.


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## woodman6415 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nice pen ...lots of u tube videos on CA finishing ... a pack of micro mess sanding pads with be your friend...


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## Casey Botts (Oct 28, 2018)

Thanks woodman. I will check it out.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Karl_99 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nice job! Save it so you so you can see how you are progressing. I often use a CA/ Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) finish. Message me if I can be of help.


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## Patrude (Oct 28, 2018)

Your first is nicely done. Looks like you're on your way to building a spectacular portfolio. Do not sell it. You gotta keep # 1. They're lots of methods for ffinishing with c.a. I like to go with boiled linseed oil and c.a. Start with filling the pores with Tripple EEE Wax & filler. After buffing it out fold a paper towel and apply a light coating of boiled linseed oil with the lathe running at slow speed. Now add a drop or 2 of c.a. onto the lindseed oiled paper towel (same side) and apply it to the lightly oiled blank continuously moving back and forth across the pen blank. I get the finish I like with 3 applications. VENTILATION is very important whenever working with c.a. wear a good quality respirator mask. There are as many answers to the c.a. finish as their are questions. This one works for me. I think all will agree however that ventilation is all important. Good luck

Reactions: Informative 1


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## TimR (Oct 28, 2018)

Very nice Casey!


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## Chris S. (Nov 1, 2018)

Dude thats a great first pen. Watch some youtube videos on ca finish and give things a try. Best advice is if using accelerator get one with a nice fine mist, almost a fog. Go to classroom section there is also a write up on dip method of finish.


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## Casey Botts (Nov 2, 2018)

Chris,
Thanks for the compliment. It was funny you mentioned the dip method, I just read it before I read your post.


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## rocky1 (Nov 3, 2018)

CA can be daunting Casey, but the bottom line is it takes time and experience. As indicated above there are numerous methods of application, all of which work, if you take the time to figure them out. The one thing I've found most important however, is not rushing things. Apply a couple layers, sand smooth, repeat. Don't let ridges and ripples build. Even if you do manage to fill them, which is all but impossible, they'll show in underlying layers upon close inspection under good light. Keep it smooth, don't try to build finish to quickly. Medium and Thick CA are great for some things, personally I avoid them for building finish. They tend to build ripples and ridges as quickly as they build finish. Unless you like spending time sanding, they're counter productive in my experience. 

While you won't encounter it on ink pens, other projects with raised areas, i.e lanyard rings and beads on calls or maybe ridges on bell or kitchen utensil handles, you'll find the centrifugal force moves your CA up the raised area to the peak of the bead/ridge. Using CA accelerators can cause issues in such areas when applied. The surface will skin over, and underlying uncured CA will cause the surface to blister when accelerator is applied. Using accelerator, it's usually a good rule of thumb to give the CA a chance to cure, then apply to finish curing for sanding or applying additional coats. 

Wet sanding CA, I use water on light colored woods, Boiled Linseed oil on anything medium to dark colored, to avoid the white residue from sanding in pores, cracks, crevices, voids, whatever. The BLO gives a darker sanding residue and doesn't show when filling voids in darker woods. Likewise when sanding lighter colored woods avoid contacting your bushings, when sanding. The fine metal filings off the bushing will give you an ugly grey residue that looks really nasty on a pretty white blank. Some sand paper will give you ugly grey residue on light colored woods as well. 

Applying a little cutting board finish (_nondrying oils and beeswax_), to your fingertips, will prevent the CA from sticking to your fingertips so bad. BLO is a drying oil, that one don't work! Cutting board finish can be found in the paint section at Lowes, Home Depot. Just rub it in to the fingertips good before starting. The oils and wax prevent the CA from filling pores in your skin and sticking several layers deep. 

While it's a good idea to keep a release agent on hand for CA. It's a better idea to drop whatever you're doing and spread your fingers quick when you realize you have glue all over them. Let the stuff dry and deal with it after the fact. My experience with release agents is, it softens the CA for about long enough to think it's going to work, and in that fleeting moment while you're thinking it's going to work, the release agent starts to dry and the CA cures again. Liberal amounts are required to unattach you from whatever you're attached to. Better to simply drop whatever it is, pry fingers apart quickly, whatever, before it cures fully.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## David Hill (Nov 4, 2018)

Nice pen!


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## B Rogers (Nov 6, 2018)

Patrude said:


> Your first is nicely done. Looks like you're on your way to building a spectacular portfolio. Do not sell it. You gotta keep # 1. They're lots of methods for ffinishing with c.a. I like to go with boiled linseed oil and c.a. Start with filling the pores with Tripple EEE Wax & filler. After buffing it out fold a paper towel and apply a light coating of boiled linseed oil with the lathe running at slow speed. Now add a drop or 2 of c.a. onto the lindseed oiled paper towel (same side) and apply it to the lightly oiled blank continuously moving back and forth across the pen blank. I get the finish I like with 3 applications. VENTILATION is very important whenever working with c.a. wear a good quality respirator mask. There are as many answers to the c.a. finish as their are questions. This one works for me. I think all will agree however that ventilation is all important. Good luck


So the CA will cure on the damp BLO? Or do I need to let it dry first? I like the look oil gives but like the smooth finish of CA. This may give me both. Just making sure I understand.


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## Casey Botts (Nov 7, 2018)

I think he means use the BLO instead of water when wet sanding. Then wipe clean before applying next coat. If there is any residual from the BLO, I would let it dry before applying the next coat. I think you should be able to wipe it dry.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## rocky1 (Nov 7, 2018)

No... There is a CA and BLO process using the two in conjunction.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Casey Botts (Nov 8, 2018)

Well that explains it. It also explains my poor polishing results!
Thanks Rocky1

Reactions: Like 1


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## rocky1 (Nov 8, 2018)

Not everyone uses that method Casey. It just happened to be the one mentioned in the post questioned. 

Personally, I do finish with CA then wet sand with BLO as you suggested. There again however, it's not necessary to wipe BLO from the blank when wet sanding. If there's a little BLO uncured, it has no negative impact on the CA as long as it's not an excessive amount. BLO and CA do play well together, I've never had a problem with using the two. Have even heard people suggest that BLO acts like a catalyst and speeds the CA cure time, but personally I haven't seen anything that would suggest that, it's possible when used with the method in the video that it does speed cure time; I couldn't tell you there.

Try all the different methods you can find, see what works best for you personally, and refine it to suit you. Not rushing it, and keeping it level and smooth, will get you farther faster than any method of applying it.


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## Casey Botts (Nov 8, 2018)

Thanks very helpful. I am going to go to the garage and give it a try.


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## Casey Botts (Nov 8, 2018)

Thanks Rocky1. The techniques in the video worked very well.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## rocky1 (Nov 9, 2018)

Cool deal! Again, CA can be a pain, it's just a matter of figuring out what method works for you and gives you the desired results. Takes a little experimenting and a lot of practice.


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