# Glue or Waste Blocks



## Nature Man (May 23, 2018)

When using a glue or waste block, how do you attach to the block you are turning. Specifically, what type of glue and how much do you apply. I've not done this before, and can foresee problems detaching the block from the piece if attached too well. Thanks! Chuck


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## Tom Smart (May 23, 2018)

I’ll begin by saying I haven’t used a glue block, but I think a hot glue gun will hold well enough and cure quickly. Leave enough wood on your piece to turn the glue block off rather than trying to break the glue joint.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## TimR (May 23, 2018)

I usually use 5 min epoxy, and turn it away and sacrifice it to hold on as long as possible.
If nice and flat and not an oily wood, wood glue is another option...just takes longer

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Mike Mills (May 23, 2018)

For dry wood, titebond yellow glue with paper (section of grocery bag) between the joint to help separate.
For green/wet CA glue and good rap with a chisel at the end normally separates with no problem.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## David Hill (May 23, 2018)

Before I learned about chucks I used wood glue and newspaper. Never thought about grocery bags. Worked ok.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## pinky (May 23, 2018)

I use hard maple blocks with titebond III

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## barry richardson (May 23, 2018)

I use yellow glue and whatever hardwood scraps I have around, then part off when done,....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (May 24, 2018)

Thanks, all! I am going to attempt to turn some flat platters and I'm just not sure my chuck will have enough material to grab. Chuck


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## Tom Smart (May 24, 2018)

If you have a piece about 2” thick and the worm screw that came with your chuck try using it.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## David Hill (May 24, 2018)

Nature Man said:


> Thanks, all! I am going to attempt to turn some flat platters and I'm just not sure my chuck will have enough material to grab. Chuck


Hmm.... guess it depends on just _how flat. _I have done those and still use my chuck with some tailstock support if it's kind of wide so the leverage from using the tools won't pop it off. That's where my tailstock steady pays off.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DKMD (May 24, 2018)

I’ve used all of the above, but the 5 minute epoxy is my favorite... fast and strong. I just turn the glue block away at the end when reversing the piece.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Spinartist (May 24, 2018)

All of the above.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nubsnstubs (May 25, 2018)

I just did 21 Charger Plates 12" OD using Mesquite, Cottonwood, and Eucalyptus that was about 1" thick when started. On all I made a 1/4" long tenon and completed the bottoms while between centers. I then turned the plate around, brought up the tailstock, and turned the face of it leaving a small nub. Satisfied with what I did to face, I removed the TS and cut the nub out, sanded each one as I worked them. Each one was set all aside until done with the 21 plates. 

I then fitted a Jam/Friction plate or Rim chuck to fit the plates, then proceeded to turn the tenons to the proverbial nub most turners turn to while still between centers. From there you can either saw, chisel or knock the nub off. Since I invented the Tail Stock Steady, I remove the tenon and dress up all the bottoms on everything I turn while still SAFELY between centers. 

FYI, you can safely turn a 1/4" thick x 15" piece using your chuck as a jam chuck to get the tenon made. Then turn it around and detail the front. It scares me some, but have done about 7-8 pieces just to prove to myself that it can be done. ......... Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (May 25, 2018)

Nubsnstubs said:


> I just did 21 Charger Plates 12" OD using Mesquite, Cottonwood, and Eucalyptus that was about 1" thick when started. On all I made a 1/4" long tenon and completed the bottoms while between centers. I then turned the plate around, brought up the tailstock, and turned the face of it leaving a small nub. Satisfied with what I did to face, I removed the TS and cut the nub out, sanded each one as I worked them. Each one was set all aside until done with the 21 plates.
> 
> I then fitted a Jam/Friction plate or Rim chuck to fit the plates, then proceeded to turn the tenons to the proverbial nub most turners turn to while still between centers. From there you can either saw, chisel or knock the nub off. Since I invented the Tail Stock Steady, I remove the tenon and dress up all the bottoms on everything I turn while still SAFELY between centers.
> 
> FYI, you can safely turn a 1/4" thick x 15" piece using your chuck as a jam chuck to get the tenon made. Then turn it around and detail the front. It scares me some, but have done about 7-8 pieces just to prove to myself that it can be done. ......... Jerry (in Tucson)


Do you happen to have any pics on your process? What is a Tail Stock Steady? I've not had much luck turning stuff between centers. Chuck


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## Nubsnstubs (May 25, 2018)

Chuck, I video everything I do, but I'm in Florida right now, and won't have any access to my videos until I get back home in Tucson, about June 1 or 2. 

A Tail Stock Steady is one of my inventions which I actually patented. If you are inclined to, go to www.woodturnerstools.com and click on the videos posted. If you click on the youtube icon in the video, it will take you to my channel, Nubsnstubs. There are 11 woodturning videos doing all sorts of stuff highlighting the tools I've made and invented. 

The Tail Stock Steady is a pair of wheels that is inserted into the tailstock quill that allows you to completely remove the nub or tenon while still between centers. In my opinion, it is so much better than any of the current work holding tools(Cole Jaws, Longworth Chuck, vacuum chuck) on the market. You can't lose your work unless you forget to tighten your tailstock of it creeps and you don't know it. The key is to keep pressure between the tail and headstock.

If you are doing a tall foot on something, you could turn a finial if you choose to. I believe one of my videos shows turning a finial on the foot of a piece.

When I get to Tucson, I'll try to get a couple more vids posted so you can see how I do it. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nubsnstubs (May 25, 2018)

Nature Man said:


> * I've not had much luck turning stuff between centers.* Chuck


 
I believe that all turnings should start between centers. You will reach a point where you must remove the tailstock for some type of access to your form, be it either the outside or inside, but doing a tenon between centers is probably the easiest thing to do. When done, it makes more sense to keep the piece between centers so you don't launch it. Pull it from between centers only when done.

Where in relation to Orange, Ca. is Redding? I'll probably go out there about June 11-15th. Maybe we could meet up. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Nature Man (May 26, 2018)

Nubsnstubs said:


> I believe that all turnings should start between centers. You will reach a point where you must remove the tailstock for some type of access to your form, be it either the outside or inside, but doing a tenon between centers is probably the easiest thing to do. When done, it makes more sense to keep the piece between centers so you don't launch it. Pull it from between centers only when done.
> 
> Where in relation to Orange, Ca. is Redding? I'll probably go out there about June 11-15th. Maybe we could meet up. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)


Redding is about 600 miles North of Orange! Couple hours from the Oregon border. Chuck


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## Nubsnstubs (May 26, 2018)

Nature Man said:


> Redding is about 600 miles North of Orange! Couple hours from the Oregon border. Chuck


Well, in that case, you're out of luck on a meet up. I've just passed 5000 miles on my adventure around the US, and still have another 3000 before I get home.............. Jerry(in Tucson)


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## Nature Man (May 26, 2018)

Nubsnstubs said:


> Well, in that case, you're out of luck on a meet up. I've just passed 5000 miles on my adventure around the US, and still have another 3000 before I get home.............. Jerry(in Tucson)


Understand! Maybe some time in the future. Chuck


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## Robert Baccus (May 28, 2018)

I,ve done many hundreds of vases this way--to 125#. Use thick CA--green wet wood is fine--no clamping is necessary. Do use good strong wood such as walnut, hard maple, jatoba and not scrap wood--that,s asking for it. Mount to the headstock with a screwchuck or faceplate and flatten with a square scraper--the piece should also be flat also natch.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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