# warped pot calls



## michael dee (Mar 10, 2015)

I am having problems with pot calls that are warping. The two pot calls in question are ambrosia maple and a piece of spalted maple and are stabilized, the spalted by me and ambrosia by someone else. When I started to glue in surface I noticed a wobble in surface.I am using a coat of tru- oil for finish that I hang in a drying box made from an old refrigerator that has a low wattage light bulb that just seems to keep moisture out , not hot inside fridge at all.Then take out after dry and wipe paste wax on it and buff it out.Just trying to give all the details of the process . I am thoroughly confused and frustrated because of the amount of time that was put into this project.I thought once the wood was stabilized it was good to go as for as warping, cracking etc. By the way before I stabilized I put wood in oven for about 28 hrs. and was reading "low " on moisture meter ( meter want read below about 5%) , wood started out at about 8%, put in chamber afterwords for about 10 hrs. , let soak for 2 days , and cooked blanks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## manbuckwal (Mar 10, 2015)

@JR Custom Calls @myingling @Wildthings @Bigdrowdy1 Maybe these guys can help ?


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 11, 2015)

Occasionally I see the same thing. It's not warping, it's not cutting straight. Generally it's an easy fix, just chuck it back up and touch up the lip that didn't cut straight. Best I can figure, the blank somehow slips a tiny bit on the chuck when test fitting, so when you go to cut a little more, it doesn't cut the bottom of the ledge flat.

You're correct, stabilizing pretty much removes the risk of warping. Not completely, but if it's done correctly, it shouldn't. I wash my stabilized pots a lot of the time, prior to gluing up. Knock on wood, never had a problem with it.


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## Bob Palmer (Mar 11, 2015)

I'd say JR nailed it! Or, if your stock isn't square, you may have not drilled the center hole straight. If so, the lip will be slightly oblong and the playing surface is pinched. Same fix as above!


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## myingling (Mar 11, 2015)

yea I would agree with the rest,,, man ive done some quick stabilizing and never had a pot warp after turning I will even 3/4 turn them before stabilizing and don't get much warping ,,,,, do u lay a surface in the call well turning make sure every things good before removing for your chuck and after turning before you apply a finish ? I would look into how your turning them


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## bluedot (Mar 11, 2015)

I would take care while sanding not to get the pot to warm. Warping typically happens with wood that is not dry but yours sound plenty dry. Just another thing to look at.


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## Wildthings (Mar 11, 2015)

I hafta agree with the consensus. Probably not warping but getting turned that way. Will a layer of goop allow for setting the playing surface in the channel level and letting it cure like that. If not them a trip back to the lathe may be in order as stated above.


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## michael dee (Mar 11, 2015)

Alright fellas I went out to shop today and tried another one , and I really took my time to cut shelf and checked fit before reversing pot and everything was OK. Continued on bottom of pot , got the shape I wanted and sanded and after all done noticed a slight wobble in slate when I tried to check fit after sanding pot. Because of the way I make the pots once I finish top of pot and flip around to do the bottom I have no way to re- chuck to access top again. I have some pictures of process, 1st picture is hole I drill in wood for attaching to chuck, 2nd is call on chuck and 3rd is top of call after finished at which time the fit was good. I am turning these calls at about 2800 rpm and when cutting I feel heat coming off , don't know if that could be problem or not. Anyway thanks for all the input and I will keep on trying.


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## FloridaQuacker Game Calls (Mar 11, 2015)

Bluedot is right...99% of the time its heat. Sharp tools is a must. EZ sanding on the lathe

Looking at pic 3...I question the stabilization. Sorry if that offends.


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## michael dee (Mar 11, 2015)

@FloridaQuacker Game Calls , no offense taken, but curious what makes you say that?


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Mar 11, 2015)

I was having this problem and found my spindle had a slight amount of play in the bearings. It didn't happen every time just occasionally. I replaced bearing and adjusted end play and the issue went away. Like others have said it sounds like some sort or alignment issue. Heat whether from sanding or dull tools is never good either. I generally turn my pot bottoms first then turn and do the tops. I use a collect and arbor for most of my stuff and have found it more favorable for me to use. I had a hard time using my chuck for turning as I didn't always get it squared up correctly. Just a little out of align and things didn't work well. Checking with a dial indictor for set would help but is a lot more time consuming. Hope that helps


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## bluedot (Mar 11, 2015)

From the picture of the pot call in the chuck I would think it might be hard to get the pot straight. Shallow hole(which I understand) and the diameter of the jaws do not give a lot of surface are to set up on. But if you do not take off the chuck once you start it should come out ok unless the pot is moving while you are turning.


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## FloridaQuacker Game Calls (Mar 11, 2015)

michael dee said:


> @FloridaQuacker Game Calls , no offense taken, but curious what makes you say that?



Looking at the drilled sound holes...it just doesn't look like it got a thorough "soak".


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## michael dee (Mar 11, 2015)

@bluedot , @Bigdrowdy1 , would a collet be at better choice , I have a 1/2" and 3/4" , I have never tried this method but am definitely game if it will help, just seems like it would slip , but never tried it so I could be way off.


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Mar 11, 2015)

That's my preferred method


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## Wildthings (Mar 11, 2015)

That's my preferred method also but the majority of mine are using a 5/8" collet. But either of those should work. Just personal preference with whatever works with your pots!


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## bluedot (Mar 11, 2015)

I use a face plate with a center bolt but have used a collet with success. I started out with a screw chuck and this also works. I would mount it so the face of the call is against the collet collar. This would create a reference to keep is square every time if you need to remount.


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## Bob Palmer (Mar 12, 2015)

I know lots of folks use the chuck same as you have pictured, but I really have trouble keeping the stock straight when I try it! I use a bolt through the center on a face plate with a wood surface attached. The stock lays against the wood and rarely gets out of square. I saw a video of myingling and I believe he does something similar. It would work well with your design!


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## michael dee (Mar 12, 2015)

Fellas, I tried some of y'all suggestions last night and tonight, first was using the mandrel and it worked but just am not comfortable with that method and I definitely appreciate the suggestions, second was using a bottle stopper chuck to hold back of call which held it true and then flipping around and using my #2 size jaws on chuck to hold inside of pot on the side walls. Seemed to work good , it has a few more steps but we will see how it works out.

Reactions: Like 1


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