# Bandsaw blade help



## Mabren2 (Jun 30, 2016)

I have been using Timberwolf's 3/8" 3 tpi blade. The first one I loved until I made a rookie mistake and kinked it....lesson learned. Bought another one, loved it until it broke at the weld after a few months (not heavy use). I read the package, and it said the weld is guaranteed for life. I called them, they said send it back and they'll mail a new one. I'm the worst at getting around to doing those things, so bought another last week because I needed it, and figured the free one can be my backup. Took it out of the package today and started sawing on a maple burl my logging buddies drug out for me, and about halfway through it broke at the weld. The first one broke when I turned the machine on. The one today broke while squaring up a 4" thick bowl blank. I was cutting some pretty big pieces today, but that particular cut was probably the easiest one yet, and was going smooth until the blade just let go.

I am still pretty new to all of this, but I have done a lot of research trying to ensure that I know how to set the saw up correctly and safely (not trying to say I know everything, just saying I didn't rush the blade change/set-up). I tensioned the blade using the flutter technique recommended on the blade's package. The only other blade I have ever used is the one that came with the saw (Rikon 10-325 14"). The Timberwolves have cut way better, but the stock blade has been serviceable cutting my pot call blanks and a few cherry bowl blanks out out 8/4 kiln dried stock (and it hasn't broke yet).

I think that's about all the info I have, so here are my questions: 

Is there something I am likely doing to cause these blades to break at the weld?

Secondly, what are some other good blade options for cutting green wood? I'm not sure how long the exchange process is going to take, and I still have half a big burl to cut up, and I am not sure I want to drop another $40 on one of these given the last two have broken on me.

Any advice and suggestions are appreciated, thanks!


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## Mike1950 (Jun 30, 2016)

$40- Yikes- how long is your blade


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## Mabren2 (Jun 30, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> $40- Yikes- how long is your blade



111"


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## Mike1950 (Jun 30, 2016)

To add if your thrust bearings are to far forward- Towards where you are standing when you cut -That can put undo tension on blade and cause premature failure. I buy a carbon steel blade $13.50 for a 133" and in lasts quite a while and hardly ever breaks. That said friday I had a resaw blade on 133" $26 and It did break- Had sawn quite a bit of wood with it though.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mike1950 (Jun 30, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> 111"



Too much money- www.supercutbandsaw.com buy a carbon steel probably $12.50(buy 2) if you like them buy one of there resaw

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mabren2 (Jun 30, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> Too much money- www.supercutbandsaw.com buy a carbon steel probably $12.50(buy 2) if you like them buy one of there resaw



Thank you! It seems the green wood blades are usually a little thicker, so should I get the 5/8" .032 4h for cutting green wood?


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## Mike1950 (Jun 30, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> Thank you! It seems the green wood blades are usually a little thicker, so should I get the 5/8" .032 4h for cutting green wood?



The green wood blades are more expensive. The carbon steel blades are also. They do not leave as good as finish as resaw but with larger kerf They work great for me on the burls I cut

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## EastmansWoodturning (Jun 30, 2016)

Country Saw and Knife blades are what I have been using. Good price, nice people, and weld don't brake. They have a site and are out of Ohio

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mabren2 (Jul 1, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> To add if your thrust bearings are to far forward- Towards where you are standing when you cut -That can put undo tension on blade and cause premature failure. I buy a carbon steel blade $13.50 for a 133" and in lasts quite a while and hardly ever breaks. That said friday I had a resaw blade on 133" $26 and It did break- Had sawn quite a bit of wood with it though.



I had all my bearings set basically as close as I could without touching the blade while running. Do you recommend anything different than that?


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## JR Custom Calls (Jul 1, 2016)

Timber wolf blades suck. I like starrett because they're easy to get locally and cheap, but also last a long time between sharpenings.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Tony (Jul 1, 2016)

I didn't have good experience with Timber wolf either, I get Carter blades now but I think I'm going to try @Mike1950 's suggestion. Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mike1950 (Jul 1, 2016)

Mabren2 said:


> I had all my bearings set basically as close as I could without touching the blade while running. Do you recommend anything different than that?



No I do not. I just suggested the thrust bearing because when I bought my jet that was a problem. But your problem is the blade. It is the wrong blade for what you are doing. You need a blade that has a wide kerf. Above blade suggestions might be good. I am partial to supercut because I am 20 miles from factory. They are very generous with info when I go to pick up blades. And blades are reasonably priced. But if you buy their resaw blade and try to cut up burls you will not be happy. It is the wrong blade for that kind of cutting

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DKMD (Jul 1, 2016)

I usually look for a blade with an alternate tooth pattern and 2-3tpi when cutting wet wood. I've tried several, and I haven't found any that I absolutely love.

I wonder if the welds breaking could be related to the blade being too thick for the wheel diameter on your saw?

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## barry richardson (Jul 1, 2016)

That is a likely culprit. 14" bandsaws do fine with .025 blades. Many blades are .035 they will fatigue on the small wheel. As said, Timber Wolf are way overpriced, many better cheaper options. I have tried about all of them and I always come back to Lennox. Check out bandsawbladesdirect.com

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Patrude (Jul 1, 2016)

I have used TimberWolf on my 14" 25 year old delta for some years. Had one snap because I was careless & didn't secure branch stock that I was ripping. That aside I bought a blade for my Son's 14" rikon from Highland Woodworking. Namely their "timber slicer". My Son said it out performed anything he ran before. Said he felt like he had a completely different saw. I bought one for myself but haven't used it yet. I've got about 3 sharpenings left on the TimberWolf I'm currently running. Did you try easing the back edge of your bandsaw blade? That one step helps reduce strain on the blade. No matter how well my stock is cutting I use a slow feed. Keeps the heat down and reduces strain. If I feel any binding at all I back off slightly about 1/8" & slowly start feeding again.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mabren2 (Jul 1, 2016)

Patrude said:


> I have used TimberWolf on my 14" 25 year old delta for some years. Had one snap because I was careless & didn't secure branch stock that I was ripping. That aside I bought a blade for my Son's 14" rikon from Highland Woodworking. Namely their "timber slicer". My Son said it out performed anything he ran before. Said he felt like he had a completely different saw. I bought one for myself but haven't used it yet. I've got about 3 sharpenings left on the TimberWolf I'm currently running. Did you try easing the back edge of your bandsaw blade? That one step helps reduce strain on the blade. No matter how well my stock is cutting I use a slow feed. Keeps the heat down and reduces strain. If I feel any binding at all I back off slightly about 1/8" & slowly start feeding again.



I really liked the way the Timberwolf blades cut, too, just stumped by the last two breaking. I'm sure that big burl yesterday was a good workout for the blade, and that wouldn't have surprised me so much, but the first one that broke really only saw light duty. Are you using the .032" thick blade? Some here and on other forums thought the thicker blades may not hold up well on the 14" wheels.

I'm not sure what you mean by easing the back edge of the blade, but I will certainly try it if you can explain it a little for a rookie, haha. Thanks for the reply!


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## Patrude (Jul 1, 2016)

As for the blade thickness I'm not sure. Bought them a few years ago. There are you tube videos re: easing the back of a bandsaw blade. Forgive me if I don't explain it well, but here goes; you do this wit the blade mounted, tensioned and fully adjusted. Raise the upper guide to full height. Making sure there is nothing on the feed table start the saw. You'll need a decent bench stone. The objective is to take a small amount off the back of the blade, left and right sides. I present the stone to the rear of the blade at about a 30 degree angle using light pressure, just enough to generate a spark. We're just removing a small amount of metal. Keep a firm control on the stone and keep your fingers clear from the blade. I do this with all my bandsaw blades. Hope that helps. * BE CAREFUL if you do go with it

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mabren2 (Jul 1, 2016)

I appreciate the explanation, that clears it up!

Reactions: Agree 1


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