# New workshop question



## whitewaterjay (Sep 16, 2019)

Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a new pole barn style workshop and I'm struggling to make a decision on the floor. I'm having concrete poured and I keep going back and forth between having the floor poured as flat a level as possible with no drains to make it easier to keep everything level when building and with tools, or to have the floor be tilted a little bit with drains.

I don't believe water will be an issue with where it's located, but you never know I guess.

Does anyone have any experience on this or recommendations?

Thanks!


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## Wildthings (Sep 16, 2019)

Level

edited: I wouldn't want to worry about water being around all my tools. Isn't this going to be an enclosed workshop? Get it level and then have it covered with epoxy. Best thing I ever did

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 3 | Useful 1


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Sep 16, 2019)

Level for the shop. If in another part, sloped with drains.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mike Hill (Sep 16, 2019)

I advise this with both eyes I have behind my head on high alert looking out for a former boss who might rise up out of his grave.

Level

A project owner decided to have a particular 15,000 sf slab finished level and that is how I had it finished by a house slab finisher that was donating their time. It was a covered, 8-sided Picnic pavillion for the 1st city park here and we were doing if for a Service Club and they were donating the pavillion to the city/town/village. It rained a night or two after and there was some water standing that the boss man saw. As he was eating his duck lunch - he proceeded to rip me open up one side then down the other side because I poured a level slab rather than sloped. I mean he had pieces of duck spewing out of his mouth. People told me later that when they tried to come in the office door, they heard the ranting and turned around and got back in their truck! The girl at the front desk got up and cowered in the back offices - and she was a tough bird! Yelling and cussing was pretty normal around there, but this was different - probably one of his mistresses didn't say hi to him or something - or had to drink something other than Stoli vodka the night before.

Reactions: Funny 3


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## CWS (Sep 16, 2019)

With my last boss I recorded ever conversation we ever had on my cell phone.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Gdurfey (Sep 16, 2019)

My apron in front of the shop is slightly sloped as is the 4 inches where the garage door comes down. the slope in my house garage can drive me nuts at times. Understand why, but am very glad my shop floor is level!!! Not that I have ever had a different shop..........

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## whitewaterjay (Sep 16, 2019)

Thanks for the input guys, I think I might go with the level shop and the front apron sloped approach and pray I don't ever get water in the building!

How many amps of power do you guys have on the panel in your shop? 

Once I get the floor tackled the next job is to figure out the electrical. I've never been involved in the building of a structure like this, so I'm trying to just take it one chunk at a time. I feel blessed to have the chance and support from the wife to build a shop, but if I look at the process as a while it gets overwhelming at times.

Thanks again!


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## whitewaterjay (Sep 16, 2019)

Wildthings said:


> Level
> 
> edited: I wouldn't want to worry about water being around all my tools. Isn't this going to be an enclosed workshop? Get it level and then have it covered with epoxy. Best thing I ever did




Thanks, yes it's an enclosed shop, steel sided with house wrap.


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## kweinert (Sep 17, 2019)

Wildthings said:


> Isn't this going to be an enclosed workshop? Get it level and then have it covered with epoxy. Best thing I ever did



The slab or the shop?

Reactions: Funny 3


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## kweinert (Sep 17, 2019)

The reason for having a garage floor sloped is, of course, because you keep bringing in those vehicles that have been out in the weather and all that rain, snow, and ice has to go somewhere.

Now unless you're leaving your tools outside and only bringing them in to use them it's unlikely that you're going to have the same problem so I'd go with level. If you're going to plumb in some sort of a sink (like a laundry sink) then perhaps you might think about a floor drain in that area with a small bit of slope in to it, but other than that I don't think that most wood shops are going to have occasion to have a lot of water on the floor that has to be moved somewhere.

Having said that, I'd also pay attention to the grading on the outside of the building to help keep the water away. And maybe something like french drains by the foundation (if there is one.) You can't always say that water will never get in your shop, floods happen, but if you've taken the steps to mitigate the normal day-to-day water issues then level would be the way to go.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Great Post 1


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## rocky1 (Sep 17, 2019)

Well there is another reason, that being wash down. But one typically does not wash down the floor in a wood working shop.


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## whitewaterjay (Sep 17, 2019)

rocky1 said:


> Well there is another reason, that being wash down. But one typically does not wash down the floor in a wood working shop.



Yeah, I don't want to remove those protective layers of walnut dust on everything

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 17, 2019)

If I was doing a shop floor, I'd spend the extra grand or two and have radiant heat. It reduces heating fire risk many fold. Big deal with insurance companies. Things dry on rainy days, works easily and can be low pressure. Can heat most insulated shops with an 80 gallon water heater. Can use oil heat, or have another water based system tried in. No cold feet. 30 years of bliss for my brother's wood shop with it.

No, he had the electric in the floor too. This reduced shop flexibility. Do the top down spider web style. This allows you to drop down anywhere you need too. You can also add more line later if needed. Any 3 phase? Most hobby shops, a 100amp service can work. I'd have a 250amp, just for more possibilities. Lights are fine withe 14-2, especially with LED lighting. Outdoor lighting may need 12-2, pending loads. Split lighting on at least 2 breakers, so if you trip one, the other works. For a rectangle shop long ways, some guys do a left side lighting and a right side lighting breaker split. Then 12-2 and 10-3 should be good for most equipment. Phase limits determine need. Always an extra outlet near doors and windows for the just in case. Consider conduit if replacing line or upgrading is even a thought. Pole barn style, so 2 x 6 walls. Closed cell foam with insect control, and I'd add the fire retardant, another 12% cost. If too expensive, do 2.5" of foam and fiberglass the balance. Use open cell in the ceiling so water can drain through if you get a roof leak. Use 1/2 or 5/8ths rock on the walls and cover that with 7/16ths OSB in high use areas. Allows you to more readily attach things to the walls if need be also. Thermal doors and windows. Furnace room and office separate from the shop. Spill tray for boiler / water heater, blow offs discharged to outside. Lots of other things but sure you already have them...

Reactions: Like 1 | Great Post 1


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## William Tanner (Sep 17, 2019)

Good point Rocky. Never spilled enough blood in my shop to warrant a wash down.


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## barry richardson (Sep 18, 2019)

All the shops I've ever had have been garage shops with a slight slope, never found it to be a problem.....


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## whitewaterjay (Sep 20, 2019)

Mr. Peet said:


> If I was doing a shop floor, I'd spend the extra grand or two and have radiant heat. It reduces heating fire risk many fold. Big deal with insurance companies. Things dry on rainy days, works easily and can be low pressure. Can heat most insulated shops with an 80 gallon water heater. Can use oil heat, or have another water based system tried in. No cold feet. 30 years of bliss for my brother's wood shop with it.
> 
> No, he had the electric in the floor too. This reduced shop flexibility. Do the top down spider web style. This allows you to drop down anywhere you need too. You can also add more line later if needed. Any 3 phase? Most hobby shops, a 100amp service can work. I'd have a 250amp, just for more possibilities. Lights are fine withe 14-2, especially with LED lighting. Outdoor lighting may need 12-2, pending loads. Split lighting on at least 2 breakers, so if you trip one, the other works. For a rectangle shop long ways, some guys do a left side lighting and a right side lighting breaker split. Then 12-2 and 10-3 should be good for most equipment. Phase limits determine need. Always an extra outlet near doors and windows for the just in case. Consider conduit if replacing line or upgrading is even a thought. Pole barn style, so 2 x 6 walls. Closed cell foam with insect control, and I'd add the fire retardant, another 12% cost. If too expensive, do 2.5" of foam and fiberglass the balance. Use open cell in the ceiling so water can drain through if you get a roof leak. Use 1/2 or 5/8ths rock on the walls and cover that with 7/16ths OSB in high use areas. Allows you to more readily attach things to the walls if need be also. Thermal doors and windows. Furnace room and office separate from the shop. Spill tray for boiler / water heater, blow offs discharged to outside. Lots of other things but sure you already have them...



Thanks for such a great and detailed response. Thanks for all of the input, this will help me to make some more educated decisions combined with what the budget will allow.


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## David Hill (Sep 23, 2019)

I'd recommend level.
My shop came with the house-- metal with a concrete floor. For a long time, the only electricity was 1-- 12-2 line on a 20 amp breaker.
That changed not all that long ago--got really tired of rotating the plug ins. I put in a breaker box and ran 100 amps from my main--will_ never_ use that much at one time, but nice to have it available (better to have it and not need it.....). I learnt well when working with an Electrician in my younger years.
I ran Romex from the panel to have drop downs at all my machine and table locations--I hate tripping on lines. I also wired in 8ft fluorescent tube fixtures, 10 I think and a couple ceiling fans. I used 12-2 and 12-3 on the legs depending on whether it was a 120 or 220 leg. All to code.
Only thing is I have some problems with big rains--seems the former owner didn't take drainage into account, so I'm still in process of fixing that issue.
BTW, I live in the country, did all this myself---not bad for being a Doc and 60+

Reactions: Like 3


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