# problems with long straight runs



## chippin-in (Mar 29, 2016)

I only have 3 chisels right now so i am sure that is part of the problem, as well as a lack of experience on my part, but when spindle turning is there a "better" chisel to use when turning a 6 or 8 inch straight run? Probably personal preference but what do yall use?
I have a hard time getting circumference even.
Thanks
Robert


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## duncsuss (Mar 29, 2016)

I've found the skew gives me a better chance than a spindle gouge. (I believe it's due to the wide, flat bevel.)

Of course, even if I get the run straight, I haven't always got a perfect cylinder -- usually I make them fatter at the headstock for some reason.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## chippin-in (Mar 29, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> usually I make them fatter at the headstock for some reason.


 Me too...lol


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## Mike Mills (Mar 29, 2016)

My preference would be the skew chisel also. Some folks may like a spindle gouge or the spindle roughing gouge better.
If you haven't been introduced to "stance" then take a look at the three videos by Stuart Batty at this link.
Some are on spindle and some on bowl and I did not check which but they are only 10-15 minutes each.
Using your body to make the cut is the best way and you can use your finger against the rest as a stop. The other alternative is to use your hands/arms but it is almost impossible to get a nice cut over a distance because you lose the fine control.
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/page:2/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail

Only Stance Pt 1 is spindle orientation. If you want to view the others on face orientation you can go to the link.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## keepanionme (Mar 29, 2016)

Throw me into the skew crowd. I wouldn't had said that a month ago. I was digging around on youtube and found a guy that explained in a way that made sense to me (



) and have had a lot of success with the skew since.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## bamafatboy (Mar 29, 2016)

I use the carbide insert tool, the square one with the radius edges. Easy to use and I have better contor of it. Just works for me.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 29, 2016)

I use carbide. Easiest way I've found to keep something even across a long span is to set the toolrest so that it's perfectly in line with where I want to cut, then use my finger against it as a guide to keep the cutter in the same place across the length.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## DKMD (Mar 29, 2016)

Skew for me, but I agree that body movement is probably more important than the tool.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tclem (Mar 29, 2016)

Skew and square carbide

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Jerry B (Mar 30, 2016)

This is generally the most difficult for most people, as stated above, the skew would be your best tool, but also the hardest to master,
if you have a flat scraper (or even a semi round nose scraper) you might start with it until you get body movement down 1st ..........
Initially, make sure your tool rest is straight to your block of wood, and keep it fairly close to wood (maybe 1/4" away at most)
When holding your tool, using other fingers resting against tool rest as a guide, and using your body, lean/sway through the cut
(when trying to cut using movement of just your arms/upper body, you'll get waiver and uneven cuts)
It'll take time and lots of practice but you'll soon be making even cuts within 1/32" - 1/16" in a 12" long run

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tclem (Mar 30, 2016)

Off course if you can always use some 80 grit

Reactions: Like 1


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## Schroedc (Mar 30, 2016)

Either the skew or the square carbide, For my carbide, when I want to repeat a diameter (If I'm turning a bunch of the same thing but it'll work for making long cylinders too) I have a stop I made with a set screw that clamps on to the shaft and rides on the back of my tool rest so I can set my depth, and as long at the tool rest is parallel to the ways it'll cut a consistent depth the entire length.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Useful 1


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## chippin-in (Mar 30, 2016)

Tclem said:


> Off course if you can always use some 80 grit



Yup. Done that already.


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## Hap Hazzard (Mar 30, 2016)

Skew or scraper, depending on the wood. How long is your tool rest? If your tool rest is as long as the section you're turning, and you keep it parallel to the axis and close to the work, it makes it a lot easier to judge where you are.

Another approach a lot of turners use is to cut a groove at each end to the correct depth with a parting tool, then just take everything in between down to the same level.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Graybeard (Mar 31, 2016)

Robert, you didn't say but if you're old and your knees don't work it's really hard. As has been mentioned the information about stance is excellent, if you're able to swing. Sometimes I have to do my turning while seated so most of my movements are in the arms, not the body. That's a no no I'm told.

I try to get as close as I can, then use 80 grit on a flat board. I just tell everyone I used a skew.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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