# Bocote Guitar Build



## Fret440

Okay. I'll be posting here to document the guitar build for Woodintyuu. As soon as I can start, I'll be posting here.

Jacob

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## Treecycle Hardwoods

subscribed!


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## rdnkmedic

Yep, subscribed. Love the build threads.


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## Cody Killgore

Subscribed! Looking forward to it


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## Sprung

Looking forward to watching this build!


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## woodtickgreg

Me too!


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## ripjack13

Me three!!


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## Johnturner

OK I give up - How do you subscribe to a thread?


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## Johnturner

I thought the post reply button wasn't working!


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## Sprung

Johnturner said:


> OK I give up - How do you subscribe to a thread?



Scroll up to the top of the thread. On the right side of your screen will be the word "Watch Thread" in smaller font. Click on that and it will bring up a box that gives you some options - subscribe with e-mail notifications or subscribe without e-mail notifications. Unless you want your e-mail inbox cluttered with an e-mail whenever there's an update to the thread, I'd recommend subscribing without e-mail notifications. When there is a new post to the thread, you will have an alert at the top of the forum where all your other alerts show up, such as when someone likes or replies to one of your posts.

Hope that helps!

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## Fret440

Alright. I wouldn't say I've really started yet, but I'm collecting materials and you have to start somewhere.




This picture shows the piece that I will rip for the back, as well as what I will use for the sides. These pieces are 3/4 inches thick so I will most likely rip two or three slices for each board. The longer board will also likely yield some material for the headstock veneer or for binding if I think I want a darker binding once I get started in earnest. I will use the area of the longer board with the sapwood for the sides as I like the contrast and this area is more quartered than the other side.

Jacob


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## Fret440

This curly maple will be used for the neck of the guitar. I tend to like quarter sawn material for necks made of Spanish cedar, but as I don't have any on hand right now... This will work well.the maple is harder and stiffer, thus will work well. I will also rip some of this to use as binding for the guitar. Usually, I like a light binding with a dark back, but I'll rip some of the Bocote as well to a/b before I bend it up and glue it on. The maple here is about 35"x7"x1".

Jacob


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## Fret440

I'll use some of this Texas Ebony for the fretboard. I didn't get a picture of the top. I'll use a nice piece of Sitka spruce with 40+ growth rings per inch and some light bear claw. I'll get a picture this afternoon.

Off to work now....

Jacob

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## Blueglass

I love that you are using some non-traditional woods. My father made a couple violins out of non-trad woods. They sound great but just won't sell.

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## Fret440

Blueglass said:


> I love that you are using some non-traditional woods. My father made a couple violins out of non-trad woods. They sound great but just won't sell.



There is a myth in the market that the only woods a guitar can be made of are Brazillian or Indian rosewood, ebony, and mahogany. The myth was perpetrated because of big American companies using them almost exclusively until almost no one can use them. Truth is, guitars were made for 100's of years out of pretty much whatever the luthier had on hand until the turn of the 20th century. I love using non-traditional woods.

I should note, that if there is any of you out there that is interested in building your own instrument, you should check out www.lmii.com . They have a 'make your own' kit type thing where you can select as much or as little machining as you want and get wood that is close to final dimensioning. Or plans or DVD's of steps and whatnot. Fwiw

Jacob

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## Blueglass

I agree and some luthiers are finding they like Osage and Black Locust just as well or better than Brazilian RW. I will make an OO size eventually. I'm hooked on making these snare drums for now though.

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## Fret440

Well, not getting in the shop as much as I'd like, but getting lots of bonding with baby girl. Seems to want to be awake when daddio wants to whittle wood. 

So in the few minutes I had this morning before heading into work, I jointed the edge of the board I will use for the sides of the guitar and marked my cuts from this reference point. Sides will be approximately 32"x4"x3/8" before I start thicknessing. I'll rip the sides on the bandsaw once I get the blade changed out and set up again. (Maybe tonight or tomorrow.) I did promise a picture of the spruce I'll be using for the top, i just haven't taken a picture of it. (I did cut the excess off the end of this board... I will probably use some of it later for inlay or veneer.)

Jacob

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## woodtickgreg

The obligatory toe shot!


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## Fret440

woodtickgreg said:


> The obligatory toe shot!



I can do better. Not sure that one counts as they are all covered up.

Jacob

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## rdnkmedic

That's funny.


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## woodtickgreg

Oh it counts.


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## Fret440

A little progress. Took me forever to rip the wood for the back. Real hard wood and lots of family obligations... Well that and I think I've gained five pounds in one shoulder from sawing. I ripped the sides on the bandsaw. Now that I have them ripped close to thickness, I'll be bringing the back/sides/top all down to about .08" or 2mm with a hand plane and scrapers. I've also started to work on the neck. First I cut the board to give me a piece approximately 35"x3"x1". Then I marked for the scarf joint at the headstock, cut the headstock, planed the joint flat, and glued the headstock back on. The angle on the headstock is about 18 degrees. Then I measured from the headstock about 330mm for the joint to the body and marked this (will be the 12th fret). Third I marked 50mm farther and cut the excess. The excess became the pieces for the heal block that you see being glued in the pictures.

Jacob

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## Treecycle Hardwoods

Aren't you supposed to be at the hospital or bedside or something??? Actually that fabric behind everthing looks kinda like one of those hospital couches Geeze your hardcore!

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## Fret440

And a picture of the spruce for the top. I have have now jointed and glued it, but don't have a picture yet. You can see the Real Nice cross hatching of the grain here though.

Greg, she was born the day after Thanksgiving! Just waiting on the bill now... My wife thinks it's fun to hand me baby girl right before I intend to head out to the shop, thereby keeping me from much shop time lately, but I'm working on that!

Jacob

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## Treecycle Hardwoods

oops I was reading a thread earlier without paying attention to the time stamp on them..... carry on.


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## woodtickgreg

I am already enjoying this! Great to see some one else working on something, Luthier work fascinates me.


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## woodintyuuu

this is too cool thx cl


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## Fret440

A little more work done. Hope to get back in there later, but I'm on baby duty right now. With the glue on the neck dry, it's time to true up the fretboard side (top) and both sides of the neck. I do this so I can draw a center line all the way around referencing one side for consistency since the neck is currently oversized. I then marked where I want the neck/ body joint to be (in this case, it's the 12th fret location) and then marked the angle for the cut that will allow the sides to be glued with the body and neck. Note, I also marked a line about 10mm from the first line. I'll cut the waste here. The sides will be approximately 2mm thick, so I will make a couple of wedges (maple like the neck) for each side of the neck that will allow me to glue the sides without some clamps. It also makes for a better and more solid neck joint.

Also note the new addition to my bench. Wife got me a pipe clamp for Christmas and I thought I'd give it a more noble purpose, so I made a bench vise out of it.

Jacob


 



 



 

Cliff, I promise I won't use the drywall screws on your guitar.

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## Fret440

Somehow, I forgot to take a picture of the neck after I cut those waste parts out. Will get it tomorrow.

Jacob


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## Fret440

Got to take off a little of the excess today. My main goal was to clean up the shop a bit. So, here's a picture of the trash can to prove I actually do clean occasionally. I also marked a piece of Bocote to make the headstock veneer out of as well as a piece of Texas Ebony for the fretboard.

Jacob

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## Fret440

And a bit more excess removal. You can see the lines for where I need to take the rough neck before I start shaping. I'll finish the inside and outside heels before I get it attached to the sides. I'll also finish out the headstock before then, as well. The excess I've just taken of can be done in whatever way you choose. I used a handsaw (carcass and dovetail saws work good) and a bandsaw. My bandsaw blade is about shot so I'll have to wait on ripping the binding until I can get another one.

Jacob

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## Fret440

I felt that the headstock was looking too plain so I went ahead and got it on it's way. I'll have to order some tuners before I can go much further though. Always want to drill the tuner post holes before the string channels, or you'll end up putting a new headstock on the neck. Anyway, I ripped a piece of the Bocote and glued it up. The pics don't show it, but there is a slight chamfer on the neck side of the faceplate. It's so the angle on that side remains at about 90 degrees to the face of the neck. This is so the nut (part the strings rest on) will have a place to but up against. (It will make sense later.) When the glue was dry, I planed the faceplate flat, hit it with a card scraper, and drew my lines on the front and back so I could remove some excess(shown). The headstock is at it's final thickness of 20mm. I am also starting to thickness the back, though I don't have a picture yet. It was slightly narrow in the lower bout so I added some 'wings' from the Bocote cut offs. This is pretty common practice and I could do that or cut the back in half again and put in some sort of stripe of contrasting wood. I liked the first option aesthetically better.

Jacob

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## woodtickgreg

Very cool progress, I am enjoying this!

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## Fret440

A little more before baby calls. I decided to test some finish on a piece of the scrap. The left is Tung oil (two coats), the right is Shellac (one coat of amber). I like the looks of the shellac. I also started working on the overall shape of the headstock. I use a chisel and a rasp to get the rough shape, the. Follow up with a card scraper. I try to avoid sand paper if I can help it and most surfaces of a guitar can be cleaned up with a scraper... Also keeps the dust down.

Jacob

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## woodintyuuu

jacob handwork is always my favoritttttte! tools not sandpaper that is!! this is exciting. my wife loves the 
thread and has to give me the secret handshake to look at any wood barter stuff . You know --- the old whats in the truck stays in the truck routine. she does not need to know much about my wood dealing shenannigans. cl

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## cabomhn

Good work so far, I'll be watching this thread


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## Fret440

Decided to finish thicknessing the back today. I do this with a jack plane going across the grain and using it like a scrub on really high spots. I turn the material a lot. I do this on both sides if necessary. Sometimes one side is flat enough to begin with a smoothing plane. When I've finished with the jack, I move to a No. 3 to make it smooth, at least on the show side. This leaves the wood in a state that I could put finish on if I wanted to, or move to a scraper. All of these pictures show the inside face of the guitar back, which I left a little rougher and may go back later and clean up. Always use your mold to mark your body outline. This ensures a good fit with the sides when you bend them up and clamp them in.

Jacob

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## Sprung

Jacob - Very nice! Looking awesome, and I'm really enjoying following along.

I like your pipe clamp vise idea. I got a couple pipe clamps for Christmas and I currently do not have a vise (but could really use one.) Would you be able to post a few detail pics of how it's constructed, even if it's in another thread (so as to not detract from the guitar build)?


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## Fret440

Sprung said:


> Jacob - Very nice! Looking awesome, and I'm really enjoying following along.
> 
> I like your pipe clamp vise idea. I got a couple pipe clamps for Christmas and I currently do not have a vise (but could really use one.) Would you be able to post a few detail pics of how it's constructed, even if it's in another thread (so as to not detract from the guitar build)?



Will do.

Jacob

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## Sprung

Fret440 said:


> Will do.
> 
> Jacob



Thank you!


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## Fret440

Didn't get much done today. Baby called and I was up to bat. I had intended to get the braces cut and ready in addition to finishing out the neck. I got some braces roughed out (you can see them in the background of the second picture) and I did get to work on the neck. I cut the rebate out to accept the top when it gets glued and I finished up the shape of the inside heelblock. I didn't have a chance to get a picture of the finished heelblock. I also finished up the outside shape of the headstock, but didn't yet get a picture. 
I used the two chisels and rasp in the second picture for the shaping.

Jacob

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## Kenbo

Very cool.


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## Fret440

Okay. I still have a little clean up on the heelblock, but it's getting close. Also, a picture of the headstock. I can't go any further with the headstock until I get the tuners. (I need them to accurately drill the holes.) I started to rip the fretboard off of its block, but duty called before I could finish. Here's a picture taken shortly before I had to call it a day.

Jacob

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## Fret440

I teach English at a local high school and we are now back in session, so my shop time has been greatly reduced. I did get in the shop today and finished up ripping the fretboard. I also cut out the pieces for the rosette inlay. I originally thought I'd just make it out of Bocote, but the more I thought about it, it needed something else. So I cut up a little African blackwood to mix in with it. The semi-colon was a request from Woodintyuu. I like it. I should mention that when you cut shell, you need to wear a mask. Not that the shell will cause cancer, but that the little pieces of the shell are very sharp and if you breathe them in, they can cause problems.

Jacob

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## woodtickgreg

Good job! Nice toes! LOL. All kidding aside, I'm still digging this build!


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## Fret440

woodtickgreg said:


> Good job! Nice toes! LOL. All kidding aside, I'm still digging this build!


Dang! I thought I would slip that one by! Ha ha

Jacob

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## woodintyuuu

jacob sweet sweet sweet the semi colon is too cool !!

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## ripjack13

Nice work so far.....looks sweeeeet!

Toes in pic is an unwritten rule of posting pix. ;)

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## Fret440

Continued work on the rosette today. I sanded the wood down to a better thickness for inlaying into the top. This also got it closer to the thickness of the shell, which is about .5mm. First I used a little CA glue to hold the shell to the wood. Then I traced the edge with a razor blade. After that, I popped the shell off by gently wedging the razor under one edge. Keep one finger on the shell. You don't want to be looking all over the shop if you drop it. Then use a little chalk to see the lines you scribed.

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## Fret440

Here's a photo of one piece at thickness held against another of the thickness I started with. In the second photo, I'm cutting out the space for the shell. First, drill a small hole to thread the blade through. Then, cut just inside of the line, almost like you are trying to cut it in half. You need to practice this a few times for sure! I still don't always get it perfect and find myself lightly sanding a little of the inlay to fit. Once it's right, glue it with CA. I put the whole thing on some wax paper and add glue where necessary. Just need to clean it up a bit.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Okay, here's a bit more. Between family and work, it's been tough getting out to the shop. I started by smoothing the spruce for the top. Note, I'm not thicknessing or really worried about flat, just smooth enough for me to inlay the rosette. This material is currently about 4 - 4.5mm thick. Then I cut the rosette channel with a homemade circle cutter. The blade is beveled on one side in a spear point so I can go both directions with it. I forgot to get a picture using a chisel to remove the waste. And there's nothing like a good circle to show you how far off you were... 

Jacob


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## Fret440

So, the fix... I made a new rosette. I saved what I could and made some new and here's where I am now. I had a Walnut ring left over from a previous build that happened to fit. So I cut and glued up some spalted who-knows-what to make a smaller ring to fit inside. I've got some more perfling material that should arrive this week and I'll cut some decorative rings to fill the gaps. I had a piece of scrap perfling that I stuck in on the right in the picture so I could see what it would look like.

Jacob

Reactions: Like 3 | EyeCandy! 1


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## woodtickgreg

Remember, they are not mistakes, they are design changes!

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## rbhandcrafted

Fret440 said:


> Okay. I still have a little clean up on the heelblock, but it's getting close. Also, a picture of the headstock. I can't go any further with the headstock until I get the tuners. (I need them to accurately drill the holes.) I started to rip the fretboard off of its block, but duty called before I could finish. Here's a picture taken shortly before I had to call it a day.
> 
> Jacob
> 
> View attachment 38726
> 
> View attachment 38727
> 
> View attachment 38728



How do you manage to keep the cut dead straight? Excelent build thread!


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## Fret440

Ron, do you mean the sides of the headstock or the ripping of the fretboard? The short answer for both is to cut as straight as you can and then plane the offending side flat.

The long answer... with the headstock, I cut just to the waste side of the line, being careful not to cross it, then plane to the line with a block plane.
With the fretboard... I plane three sides relatively straight, but not necessarily perfect, then mark a line all the way around referencing one side ( in this case, the flat side in the picture...on dark woods, use a silver sharpie). I angle the work piece away from me and start a cut on my line with a mitre saw(small rip-cut saw). I do this on all four corners. Then I take my rip-cut handsaw (thank you Woodlove!) and cut from each corner, turning and flipping the piece regularly so the saw is always following in the cut. 

I hope that helps. I don't think I'll have any other opportunities for to show that on this build, but I'll try to remember in the future...

Jacob


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## Fret440

Got a box in the mail today. Tuners, nut/saddle, fret wire, and some dyed fiber material for purfling and inlay. I cut thin strips off to make white/black lines. 

Jacob

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## Treecycle Hardwoods

Hey fret how close are you to wrapping up this build? I have dedicated my Saturday this weekend to digging thru my many thousands of BF for material for the next build. It may run into next weekend but if I need to speed it up I can prolly put in some time on Sunday also. Looking good btw.


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## Fret440

No need to speed it up. I have quite a ways to go on this build.


Jacob

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## rbhandcrafted

Fret440 said:


> Ron, do you mean the sides of the headstock or the ripping of the fretboard? The short answer for both is to cut as straight as you can and then plane the offending side flat.
> 
> The long answer... with the headstock, I cut just to the waste side of the line, being careful not to cross it, then plane to the line with a block plane.
> With the fretboard... I plane three sides relatively straight, but not necessarily perfect, then mark a line all the way around referencing one side ( in this case, the flat side in the picture...on dark woods, use a silver sharpie). I angle the work piece away from me and start a cut on my line with a mitre saw(small rip-cut saw). I do this on all four corners. Then I take my rip-cut handsaw (thank you Woodlove!) and cut from each corner, turning and flipping the piece regularly so the saw is always following in the cut.
> 
> I hope that helps. I don't think I'll have any other opportunities for to show that on this build, but I'll try to remember in the future...
> 
> Jacob


 
Ahhhhh... starting the cuts with the miter saw...excellent! Keep the cut the the waste side & plane flat after. Got it!
Thank you!
You instrument makers never stop amazing me. Great build :)


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## rbhandcrafted

Fret440 said:


> Okay. I still have a little clean up on the heelblock, but it's getting close. Also, a picture of the headstock. I can't go any further with the headstock until I get the tuners. (I need them to accurately drill the holes.) I started to rip the fretboard off of its block, but duty called before I could finish. Here's a picture taken shortly before I had to call it a day.
> 
> Jacob
> 
> View attachment 38726
> 
> View attachment 38727
> 
> View attachment 38728



Have to respect that! resawing wood that hard, with a hand-saw! When "everyone" is using bandsaws... You are cool Jacob!


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## Fret440

rbhandcrafted said:


> Have to respect that! resawing wood that hard, with a hand-saw! When "everyone" is using bandsaws... You are cool Jacob!



Well, I have a bandsaw, but it's a craftsman 10". So, my resaw capacity is pretty limited with it. I do actually prefer to do it by hand though. It's quieter, I get a workout, and I can let the wood talk to me... Ok that last part was a bunch of malarky.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Got very little done this week, but the wife tells me I can have some time tomorrow...

First I clamped a piece of scrap so that I could cut of a strip from each the black and white fiber sheets. I think this is the "best" scrap I have... After cutting the strips to length, I placed the rosette into its place and carefully put the purfling strips around the rosette design. This is the dry fit. 

Normally, I would have cut out the center of the rosette and you would see the spruce still in place on the top, but I had an idea and I'm rolling with it. (It'll be clear in a near future post.) Then, a picture of the glue up.

I also took the tuners and copied the centerlines of the barrels to give me where to drill the holes. Then, drilled. I got one off center and had to make a dowel to fill it and redrilled.  It won't be noticeable on the finished instrument, but I really hate it when I do that. I do cheat and use an electric drill... I don't own a brace.

Jacob

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## Fret440

The rest of the pictures with an added photo of a present for my brother-in-law. His birthday is around the corner and we thought he needs something special. He's got a fourth kiddo on the way. I do however, need to work on my metalwork. It's from a kit and the scales are some scrap I got in a WB trade.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Okay! Got a bit done today. I started by planing both sides of the fretboard flat. Then I used a scraper to clean it up a bit. The second picture shows the scraper shavings after about 15-20seconds. Finish ready and no sanding! Then I cut the taper for the fretboard. I used the bandsaw for that. I cleaned up the edges after I cut the fret slots. You could cut the fret slots before you taper the board if you like.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Not shown is marking the fret locations using the center line of the fretboard.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Here I'm placing the fretboard and double checking that I have it aligned correctly to cut the frets. Even if you screw everything else up, this has to be perfect. If the frets are off, the instrument is unplayable. And being that I'm cutting 19 fret slots, I don't want to do it twice. The fret tangs are about .020 wide, so I use a thin flush cut pull saw. I found that it cuts a little wide, so I set the teeth on a flat surface and rubbed a sharpening stone on both sides of it. This took the set out so I cut the fret slots closer to the tang width, but also makes it cut slower. I also drilled into the headstock so I can begin paring out the waste with a chisel, and I finished cutting all the wood for the bracing. These are 5mm x 7mm and 20mm x 7mm. Finished, they will all be 7mm wide. The tall braces will be 17mm at the centers, tapering down at the ends. The short braces will be around 3.5mm tall for most of their length.

Jacob

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## NYWoodturner

Cutting the frets is what has forever kept me from attempting to make a guitar. All that other work could be for nothing. I'm guessing even being off by 1/100th on either end of a fret would ruin the whole thing? X 19?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Fret440

Well, there are ways to 'fix' it if you get one or two off, but it's a whole lot better not to go there and if you are using light wood, forget about it. One my very first build, I used a pre-serviced fretboard, which means someone else did the hard work, and I think I was out around $10 for the service.
Jacob

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## Blueglass

I built an electric years ago and got pre-slotted from Stew-Mac. I love watching this build come along. I'm slowly getting the wood stock to attempt an OO sized acoustic at some point.

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## barry richardson

Awesome thread Jacob. I too have a fantasy to make my own guitar someday. I've been told not to expect too much from a first guitar build, just take it as a learning experience, it takes a few before you start getting it down. So I guess that's my hold-up, I would need to make several before I had enough skill and technique to make a decent one, as well as buy and make a lot of specialized gear. So I will probably just get a talented luthier such as yourself to make me one someday I'm wanting an 00 size blues box. I'm a lefty so that limits what's out there for me, or I would buy a decent used one. Although I could just reverse the saddle and nut in most cases...

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## Fret440

Today, I went about working to thickness and brace the top. There are certain parts of the instrument in which it is critical to have a good relative humidity as you work. Bringing the top/back to thickness, thicknessing/bending sides, and glue ups are those times. When I say "good relative humidity", I mean somewhere between 45% and 55%. Outside of that range and you risk problems down the road. Today was a good day to work on the top.

So I went about bringing the rosette flush with the spruce. Anytime you do an inlay, whether by hand or cnc, there is a possibility of gaps. So I filled all cracks and crevices and whatnot in the rosette with ink black and CA glue. I taped some wax paper to it and flipped it over. Time for thicknessing. This can be done by running the top through a thickness sander and taking light passes until you get down to the desired thickness, but I like to do it by hand. With the handplane, work at a diagonal from one side to the other, then back. Turn the piece 60 degrees and start over. Repeat planing/turning until desired thickness is achieved, finish by scraping. For the top, I'm looking for 2mm or about 3/32nds of an inch. Since this is a classical, I reach this thickness and check the pitch of the top by tapping it lightly with the side of my thumb. I'm looking in this case for the top to go from a "musical" sound to cardboard. When that happens, put the plane down, you're done and it's time to mark for the braces. I like to glue up on the same day I thickness the top, this helps prevent the chance of making a wooden Pringles potato chip.

Some things to note:
- Finish All work on the rosette before cutting out the sound hole.
- Cut out the sound hole after thicknessing the top but before gluing braces.
- Steel sting tops need more thickness than classical tops, do not take them down to "cardboard"
- classical top nominal thickness = from 1.8mm-2mm
- steel string top nominal thickness = from 2mm-2.5mm

Jacob

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## Sprung

Watching this build just keeps getting better and better! Amazing work!


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## woodtickgreg

Still diggin this, I enjoy each installment.


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## Fret440

Thanks guys. Sometimes I think the weather and the kids are conspiring against me. Then I know that it will get done when it gets done. I'll miss this when I'm Mike1950's age. 

Jacob

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 3


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## Kenbo

Keep it coming, still loving it.


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## Fret440

Got a little work done on the bridge today. Mostly a measure and cut thing to start. I made a sort of poor-man's router with some scrap and a nail to plow out the channel for the saddle. See, fits like a glove! Drilled holes for the strings. These are at a slight angle. And began removing some waste. The edges will be cleaned up and the wings will get rounded over with a rasp... Then onto sanding. But, in the mean time, I have a honey-do list that I need to catch up on before visitors next weekend.

Jacob


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## Fret440

Few more pictures.

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## Fret440

Hmm, think I missed a picture. I'll load it when I find it. 

Jacob


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## Fret440

Found it.

Jacob


Jacob

Jacob


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## Fret440

Finished out the bridge today. A little work with a rasp and file. Then some sanding to 120 grit and it's almost ready for prime time.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Last two of the bridge.

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## Fret440

Not much today. I have my parents in town for our daughter's Christening. The picture is of the back with the braces laid out. I've got them turned on edge so I can check the radius I planed into the bottoms of the braces. Guitar backs have two radii. One goes horizontally left to right. The second will go vertically from neck to butt. I'll adjust the second radius when I go to glue the back to the rims. The purpose of the radii is to add some stiffness to the back. This moves the fundamental pitch of the back up just a little. The fundamental pitch of the back should be between one-half step above the fundamental for the top, and four half-steps above. I did get the braces glued, but then didn't get to take a photo before having to get back with family. Once the glue sets I'll be ready to carve braces and be one step closer to closing the box! Maybe more tomorrow.

Jacob



 


Still to come in this thread (teaser):
Brace shaping
Side bending on a pipe
Dentalones and glue up
Linings (kerfed or otherwise)
Neck shaping
End graft
Binding/purfling
Fretting
Set up
Shellac finish
I'm probably leaving something out ...

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## Fret440

Well, Friday night I got to work a little on the sides. I worked on thicknessing so that I can bend them. I got one thicknessed and still have the other to do. Since it's really the same as thicknessing the back or top, I didn't take a photo of it. I did, however, set up my pipe and mold to show what it will look like when I get the time to bend the sides. Got to be ready! Saturday, I spent (8am - 10pm) at a guitar festival (West Texas Guitar Festival). So I wasn't able to do more yesterday, and today was decidedly for family. :) 

Jacob

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## Fret440

Once you have the sides thicknessed, mark a line for the waist on the inside face of the sides. At this point I have already tapered the sides, it takes some of the work out later. When bending, be careful to support the piece with your hands or some spring steel. I usually start at the waist, then to the upper bought and lastly the lower bought. Check your progress as you go to match the profile off your mold. Go slow and let the wood tell you when it's ready to bend. If you force it, you'll break it. If you start on the hot pipe and it's not moving in a few minutes, let it all cool down for a day (to return to stable) and thin the wood a little more, you can always add some support to the inside of the instrument.

Jacob

Reactions: Great Post 1 | Way Cool 4 | Informative 1


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## ironman123

Man I have to admire you for having such patience, love for what you do and the means to do it your way. My hat is off to you. Keep up the good and quality work of hand made custom guitars.

Ray

Reactions: Agree 1


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## hobbit-hut

I'm curious about that pipe bender. I need one of those what you got there ? What you got there, something you made or ?


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## Fret440

hobbit-hut said:


> I'm curious about that pipe bender. I need one of those what you got there ? What you got there, something you made or ?


Hobbit-hut, I made this from parts I picked up from a thrift store. I think I spent about $5 in total. It's a 2 1/4" pipe, long enough to screw down. I put an electric charcoal starter (you could use any heating element like are used in hot pads, electric griddles, hotplates, and whatnot). I've seen people use 100+ watt light bulbs, too... Though I think it would take longer to heat. It's recommended to put some sort of timer and a dimmer switch on there to keep it from burning the shop down. That's on my to do list, but since space is at a premium in my shop and the pipe is mobile, I have to unplug it when I've done the bending anyway.

Jacob


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## Fret440

ironman123 said:


> Man I have to admire you for having such patience, love for what you do and the means to do it your way. My hat is off to you. Keep up the good and quality work of hand made custom guitars.
> 
> Ray


I'm sure it's more that I'm too stubborn more than anything else. When my wife and I moved out here to West Texas, she told me, "People out here do, or die trying." 

Jacob


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## hobbit-hut

Fret440 said:


> Hobbit-hut, I made this from parts I picked up from a thrift store. I think I spent about $5 in total. It's a 2 1/4" pipe, long enough to screw down. I put an electric charcoal starter (you could use any heating element like are used in hot pads, electric griddles, hotplates, and whatnot). I've seen people use 100+ watt light bulbs, too... Though I think it would take longer to heat. It's recommended to put some sort of timer and a dimmer switch on there to keep it from burning the shop down. That's on my to do list, but since space is at a premium in my shop and the pipe is mobile, I have to unplug it when I've done the bending anyway.
> 
> Jacob


Thanks Jacob, I seen one where they use a torch but I didn't like that idea because I'm sure I would have burned myself with hot gas coming out the other end. I like yours much better.


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## Blueglass

My dad uses a torch for bending violin sides just smaller pipe diameter. Never heard of him having a problem. I have tried it repeatedly I have the worst time bending the sides for those. I think I could do guitar sides though, not as severe of curves. Was curly maple naturally and would crack on the curls.


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## Fret440

Blueglass said:


> My dad uses a torch for bending violin sides just smaller pipe diameter. Never heard of him having a problem. I have tried it repeatedly I have the worst time bending the sides for those. I think I could do guitar sides though, not as severe of curves. Was curly maple naturally and would crack on the curls.


With the curly maple, you should err on the dry side. Get the pipe hot and spritz the maple right before you bend.

Jacob

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## Fret440

It's amazing the progress I can make with the kids going wacko. 

Finally got to "finish" bending that first side. I hope to work more on the other one tomorrow. There is still a little bit of this side that I may go back and work on a little more, but for all intents and purposes, it's bent. I had to bend in shifts because it would relax enough to bend a little and then I couldn't get more out of it. So I bent a little, call it a day, bent a little more. Now that it's bent, I'll leave it in the mold for a few days to fully stabilize before I start gluing and working on the body.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Well, both sides are bent now. Now, I'll be making the end block and some wedges for the neck joint. As the end block is essentially a rectangle, I probably won't show how to make that. Also, the wedges, probably won't show that. So, when I get to the point of finding the centerline and gluing all that together, we'll get more pictures. 

(Went out of town for a few days and now I'm catching back up. Happy spring break or something.)

Jacob


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## woodintyuuu

Jacob your wood pile is taking shape

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## Fret440

Here are some pictures showing how to make the kerfed lining and tentalones. I use the kerfed lining to attach the back to the sides because it's easy to clamp. I use the tentalones to attach the top so as not to introduce any extra tension. Photo 1 is cutting the kerfs. Number 2 is cutting the excess from the kerfs for the tentalones. Third is splitting the rectangles. And last is perfect tentalones.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Here's a shot of how the neck joint will go together. Also, I've trimmed the sides in the mold and can now glue the end block and neck. With them in place, I'm ready to glue the top... Just have to finish cutting the tentalones and shape the braces.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Here's some shots of shaping the braces. I do this with a wide chisel, but you could use a real small plane. I also glued up the end block and fit the neck. When the top was ready, I glued the top to the neck and end block, being careful to line up the center line on both the neck and end block. Starting in on gluing the tentalones.

Jacob

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## woodtickgreg

Really starting to take shape now!


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## Fret440

woodtickgreg said:


> Really starting to take shape now!


Yeah, I was beginning to wonder! 

Jacob


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## Fret440

Here's another shot as I get ready to fit the back to the body. The top is attached. I'll be taking a block plane and working the taper of the sides down to meet the heelblock at the neck. It's very easy to get one side narrower than the other so, go slow and try to take the same amount from both sides. (An easier way would be to use a sanding dish, but that's a bit more expensive in the long run and without a router a little difficult to get right.) The back is prepped and ready. I still have some more sanding on the braces for the top as I do some tap tuning (voodoo) to get to the pitches I'm looking for.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Put a spit coat of shellac on the top to protect it a bit as I continue to work on the other side. I may need to put a little reinforcement on the inside of the rosette. I think it is flexing more than I like. (Won't affect sound or appearance.) the picture is a little bit washed out. The colors are more vibrant in person. Most of this will get sanded off again when I go to really finishing the guitar.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Got home today and went straight out to glue up kerfed lining for the back. I'm using reversed kerfing as it is supposed to be a little cleaner look on the inside. I also put in some spruce for the sound hole reinforcement. Not pretty now, but it will be. While letting that dry a bit, I worked on cleaning up the wood pile. Maybe now I can find stuff...

Jacob

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## Fret440

Last photo before I close the box. The first two show the process for the end graft. This is a decorative piece at the butt end of the guitar. By using a wedge shape, the piece will stay in on it's own for gluing and I don't have to be particularly accurate as long as the piece is a little longer than the depth of the body. The last photo shows the cut outs for the back braces. I cut the width of each one with a pull saw, then carefully chisel out the waist.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Getting ready to start binding the guitar. Decided that using the Bocote that I cut for binding, would blend too much and look as if there were no binding. So, I A-B'd some flamed maple and Padauk. Think the maple would be too different. I've decided on the Padauk. (It will match the bridge.) I glued some black and white fiberboard up for the purfling lines, trimmed the the Padauk up, bent the strips, and clamped them into the mold.

Jacob

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## Fret440

Little sneak peak (test fit) as I start in on binding the guitar. Here, I'm working on the binding ledges and purfling channels. Measure twice, cut once...unless you feel like making more purfling.

Jacob

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## woodtickgreg

This is and has been such an awesome build to watch! Thank you for doing this, I really am enjoying watching it.

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## Fret440

Finally getting to an end with gluing the binding. Hopefully will have more shop time starting this week. Think I'll be really working to make the deadline with this one. Haven't taken many pictures of binding the guitar, because I don't have three hands. Robert O'Brien who does videos for lmii does and this is the method I used for this guitar. Link to the page: https://www.lmii.com/tutorial-videos. Scroll down to "Binding with CA glue".

Here's a shot before I start scraping and prepping.

Jacob

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## El Guapo

Wow... this is a LOT more work than I realized. I'm impressed, Jacob! And thanks for sticking with keeping us updated with the build... it is a fun one to follow!

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## Fret440

El Guapo said:


> Wow... this is a LOT more work than I realized. I'm impressed, Jacob! And thanks for sticking with keeping us updated with the build... it is a fun one to follow!


Haha! But it's fun! Actually have finish going on right now, just been trying to get it wrapped up. I'll be posting photos and commentary soon to get it all caught up, but been trying to be in the shop as much as possible to get it done. Finish takes a bit to cure and I want it as stout as possible before it gets shipped up north.

Jacob

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## El Guapo

I'm just glad we worked out a trade before your operation gets too big and I can't afford your work! I think C. F. Martin IV might be reaching out to you sometime soon.

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## Fret440

El Guapo said:


> I'm just glad we worked out a trade before your operation gets too big and I can't afford your work! I think C. F. Martin IV might be reaching out to you sometime soon.


I hope not! Not sure I want to move out of Texas! I hadn't seen a post from you in a while. Glad to see you're still around down there. When I get to your build, what would you think about ziricote for the fretboard and bridge?

Jacob


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## Fret440

Well, somehow I skipped taking photos of shaping the neck and heel. Sorry, been trying to finish the guitar! Basically, I use a sharp chisel to get the shape of the heel. I use a spokeshave to rough the neck almost to dimension. I go back to the chisel to smooth some of the transition of the neck to the headstock. I clean up the transitions of the neck/headstock/heel with a rasp and file. Then I go to sandpaper and scrapers to finish it up.

Here are a couple of pictures of my shellac "Frenchish" polishing. (I'm not really French, so American? polishing?) For the first two coats of polish, I'm just trying to build something on the guitar, so I use approximately a 2lb cut and wipe straight on to the guitar with a fine lint-free cloth. (Always make a fresh batch of shellac for each session, it doesn't stay good forever.) On subsequent coats, I use an approximately 1lb cut and begin 'french' polishing the guitar. Again with a fine lint-free cloth. (Some of you reading this will notice the cloth I'm using is cotton. I cut up some old underwear. This works pretty well. Also, I am positive there is more fecal matter in the shellac than in the cloth... we wash regularly.) Load the cloth with shellac and work in a small area of the guitar making circular motions. Occasionally you will need to reload the cloth with shellac. When the cloth starts to stick too much, add a drop of extra virgin olive oil and continue. (I'm not sure how they get the extra virgins in the bottle...) Work for 10-15 minutes and walk away. Come back later and start over. Repeat until it looks the way you want it to and stop. When it is dry you can 'spirit off' the excess. Let it sit a week from there and buff the finish out.

Also, a picture to tease y'all. (After 3 polishing sessions.)

Jacob

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## Blueglass

I can see the eye candy popping through already!

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## Fret440

One of the more important steps for playability is fretting the guitar. You can put frets in before you glue the fretboard or after. I prefer after. Once you've cut the frets to length, add a little glue (titebond regular works well) to the fret slot, wipe the excess, and tap in the fret with a small hammer. The less tapping, the less work later. Make sure the frets are fully seated. With the frets in and glue dry, trim any excess length from the fret. Then, use a file to make the ends flush with the wood and profile the top edge at the end of each fret to about 35 degrees. Now draw a line on the top of each fret with a sharpie. Use a flat file, sharpening stone, block of wood with sandpaper, or other flat sanding device about 8" long to sand the tops of the frets level. Go until you are positive that you have touched all of the frets. Check level with long and short straight edges. Use a triangle file to recrown the frets and remove some of the sanding marks. One edge of my triangle file has been ground smooth so I don't mare the fretboard. Round the edges of the frets so they won't cut the player. And finally, use some fine steel wool to polish the frets. First along the length of the fret, then to remove marks from the fretboard, along the length of the fretboard.

Jacob

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## Fret440

More pictures. Filing the fret ends.


 

Sanding the frets level.


 

Recrowning with the triangle file.

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## El Guapo

Fret440 said:


> I hope not! Not sure I want to move out of Texas! I hadn't seen a post from you in a while. Glad to see you're still around down there. When I get to your build, what would you think about ziricote for the fretboard and bridge?
> 
> Jacob


Are you kidding me? Ziricote would be awesome!

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## Fret440

El Guapo said:


> Are you kidding me? Ziricote would be awesome!


I'll write that down.

Jacob


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## Fret440

Some parting shots of the finished instrument. I'll post a video or two as I'm able. Cliff, I hope you enjoy this guitar. It sounds great and I really enjoyed building it.

Jacob

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## woodintyuuu

thank yu more than words can describe jacob, For all who dont know the backstory: My daughter goes to high school at Interlochen center for the Arts, this was an opportunity for her to recieve and participate in a world class education and environment. I asked jacob to build this guitar for her when she was struggling
mightily as it should be, This build gave her mom and I an uplift during some scary and challenging times . It was our vision to give her something all HER own
as a final graduation present -(this aside of course from college tuition-) something that NO One in the world owned but her, unique as her and as lovely, I think yu all would agree JACOB surely did that and more, He took us all on a journey of his vision and talents, and my wife and I are forever grateful. If anyone is wondering what my end of the trade is, Jacob will recieve a pallet of wood, stuff he has never seen Im sure, He asked for a rather modest amount and my feelings are: this is hokey!!! he will get what I send :cool2: As Forrest Gump the great philiospher said "thats all i have to say about that" Oh my daughter is turning into an amazing, songwriter,poet and player, Her final senior project was to record her own original album of songs and poems, and design the art for the album cover. She like jacob also hit it out of the park and, this is a BIG AND , she knows now she deserves sucess and has talent, I hope yu guys enjoyed this journey as much as Helen and I. Peace to yu Jacob

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## Fret440

Here's a couple of links to two short videos I made on my iPad. Hopefully, they capture a little of the awesome sound of this guitar.

Jacob

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## N & N Waterfowl

Holy crap!!!! That sounds amazing!!!!!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## manbuckwal

Abosolutely wonderful in every aspect from start to finish. ! It sounds incredible too . Hats off to you sir !!!

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## Blueglass

Ear candy! Nice!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Funny 1


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## woodtickgreg

Jacob well done! This has been so very cool on so many levels. To watch you build it and then play it so well is really a treat, thanks for this thread and all your work to post it.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## NYWoodturner

Jacob - Thats just incredible on all levels. I like the sound of the guitar. That is a very rich tone.

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## hobbit-hut

Truly enjoyed this thread !!! Amazing talent !!!!


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