# CA finish



## GaSawmiller (Mar 31, 2013)

So I recently ordered everything I need to start pen turning (still waiting for it to show up) and I have been researching a ton. One thing i have noticed is that everyone seems to have their own tricks for doing a CA finish. Out of all the youtube I watched not one person used the same technique. They had their own preferences. So my question to you turners out there is how do you do your CA finish and why?


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## robert421960 (Mar 31, 2013)

im new so not alot of help lol
i take them off my mandrel and turn between centers
i uses paper towel folded under the blank and run med CA and cover the blanktouching the blank with the paper towel
then spray accelerator to dry it
repeat 12 times
then i go thru the micro mesh sandpaper thru 12000
then put a polish on it
but it is shiny before the polish
im not a great typer so i hope this makes sense


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## robert421960 (Mar 31, 2013)

Rusdemka made a video for me and taught me alot


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## GaSawmiller (Mar 31, 2013)

robert421960 said:


> im new so not alot of help lol
> i take them off my mandrel and turn between centers
> i uses paper towel folded under the blank and run med CA and cover the blanktouching the blank with the paper towel
> then spray accelerator to dry it
> ...



Makes sense. Do you use friction polish?


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## robert421960 (Mar 31, 2013)

this is what i have been using
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/meg-g-12310.html


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## Reiddog1 (Mar 31, 2013)

I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.

-Clean the blank with DA or CA accelerator before finishing. 
-I use a drop of BLO with the lathe running to pop the grain before CAing.
-I put on half coats of CA, then flip the blank around, before the other half (builds up evenly on the ends).
-I sand with 320 to 600 grit, then buff with Tripoli and White Diamond.

Hope this helps.

Dave


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## Bigg081 (Mar 31, 2013)

Reiddog1 said:


> I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.
> 
> -Clean the blank with DA or CA accelerator before finishing.
> -I use a drop of BLO with the lathe running to pop the grain before CAing.
> ...


I like the idea of the BLO before to make it pop. No issues there?


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## Bigg081 (Mar 31, 2013)

robert421960 said:


> Rusdemka made a video for me and taught me alot



Share the vid_?


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## GaSawmiller (Mar 31, 2013)

Reiddog1 said:


> I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.
> 
> -Clean the blank with DA or CA accelerator before finishing.
> -I use a drop of BLO with the lathe running to pop the grain before CAing.
> ...



Im not familiar with BLO. Is is an oil or wax?


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 31, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> Reiddog1 said:
> 
> 
> > I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.
> ...



Boiled Linseed Oil - I have read about a lot of folks using this method but I have always found it clouded the CA finish. If you do it I would recommend at least 24 hours for the BLO to dry and off gas before aplying the CA


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## ssgmeader (Mar 31, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> Reiddog1 said:
> 
> 
> > I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.
> ...



Oil it stands for Boiled Linseed Oil


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## rdabpenman (Apr 1, 2013)

Through experimentation along with some trial and error this is what I have found that works for me. I am sure that others will find what works best for them when trying this application of Medium CA Only as a pen finish on wooden pen barrels. I no longer use Micro Mesh to get a High Gloss finish.

To avoid gluing the bushings to the pen blanks and prevent bushing iron filings from sanding getting imbedded into blank ends, I use bushings that have a smaller diameter than the kit bushings being used. I use old Slimline bushings. In order to use the smaller diameter Slimline bushings for the larger kits that require a “B” Mandrel, I have turned Corian Inserts using 7mm tubes that fit on my Adjustable “A” mandrel. These inserts fit snugly inside the diameter of the tube required for the kit I am turning.

1. Preparing The Pen Blank:

•	Turn the pen blank just proud of the kit bushings being used for the pen kit.

•	Remove the kit bushings. 

•	Install the required Corian insert into the pen blank.

•	Install the Slimeline bushings on the “A“ Mandrel.

•	Turn and sand the pen blank down to approximately 0.001 " smaller than the diameter of the kit fittings. I use a micrometer to measure the kit fittings to match the appropriate pen blank ends.

•	Fill all voids with CA by applying a bead of Med CA along the length of the blank. Spread and smooth out the Med CA along the length of the blank with the back of a small piece of used sand paper while rotating the lathe by hand. 

•	Do Not sand the blank until all the voids have been filled to avoid getting white CA sanding dust into the voids.

•	With the lathe running at 500 rpm, sand with 400x, stop the lathe and sand the blank length-wise. Then with the lathe running use a Tack Cloth to remove all the sanding dust.

2. Applying The Medium CA: 

•	With the lathe running at 500 RPM apply 6-8 drops of Med CA to form a puddle on a small folded piece of blue shop towel.

•	Make one pass along the length of the blank.

•	Immediately stop the lathe and quickly wipe the blank length-wise with the remaining CA on the shop towel while rotating the lathe by hand. This will smooth out any turning rings before the CA has a chance to dry.

•	Let dry for a few minuets. Do not use accelerator! There are too many curing problems associated with accelerators.

•	With the lathe running, buff with Extra Fine Steel Wool. 

•	With the lathe off, rub down the blank length-wise with Extra Fine Steel Wool to remove any turning rings and then wipe down the blank with a Tack Cloth.

•	Repeat steps 1 thru 6, applying enough coats of Med CA to get enough build-up to match the kit fittings. I use a micrometer to measure the kit fittings to match the appropriate pen blank ends.

3. Finishing The Medium CA: 

•	With the lathe running, buff the final coat of Med CA with the Extra Fine Steel Wool.

•	With the lathe off, rub down the blank length-wise with Super Fine Steel Wool to remove any turning rings.

•	Wipe the blank down with a tack cloth.

• With the lathe running, polish with Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.

Les


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## RusDemka (Apr 1, 2013)

Bigg081 said:


> robert421960 said:
> 
> 
> > Rusdemka made a video for me and taught me alot
> ...



Here yyou go


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## barry richardson (Apr 1, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> So I recently ordered everything I need to start pen turning (still waiting for it to show up) and I have been researching a ton. One thing i have noticed is that everyone seems to have their own tricks for doing a CA finish. Out of all the youtube I watched not one person used the same technique. They had their own preferences. So my question to you turners out there is how do you do your CA finish and why?



Thanks for posting this qiestion , I've just started messing with pens and I had the same questions about CA


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## GaSawmiller (Apr 1, 2013)

RusDemka said:


> Bigg081 said:
> 
> 
> > robert421960 said:
> ...


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## GaSawmiller (Apr 1, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for their input. I have a pretty good idea of where to start now. This is one reason i love this site!


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## robert421960 (Apr 1, 2013)

GaSawmiller said:


> Thanks to everyone for their input. I have a pretty good idea of where to start now. This is one reason i love this site!



dont give up if or when your first one doesnt work out right
it took me a couple to figure out what i was doing


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## haddenhailers (Apr 1, 2013)

Keep accelerator handy so when you glue the paper towel to your hand, you can set it quickly and stop the burning (this is mostly for thin ca)..... not that I would know this from experience or anything!


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## Bigg081 (Apr 1, 2013)

RusDemka said:


> Bigg081 said:
> 
> 
> > robert421960 said:
> ...


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## Reiddog1 (Apr 1, 2013)

Bigg081 said:


> Reiddog1 said:
> 
> 
> > I use the same basic process as Rob, but here's a couple more tips.
> ...



I haven't had any issues with this process and I use it on all my wooden pens for a couple of years now. I only use a drop or two of BLO and then I turn the lathe speed up and rub in the BLO until it heats up nicely. I then go straight into the CA process described above. You'll find that there are many ways to skin this cat, but this is my go to finish. Hope this helps.

Dave


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## hobbit-hut (Apr 1, 2013)

Ok, so where is the best place to buy the CA Glue. I used to get it from an outfit in California but can't remember the name. There is a difference in quality and freshness of the glue and I never had any problems with it. Just can't remember the name. Thanks for posting the thread.


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## Walt (Apr 1, 2013)

hobbit-hut said:


> Ok, so where is the best place to buy the CA Glue. I used to get it from an outfit in California but can't remember the name. There is a difference in quality and freshness of the glue and I never had any problems with it. Just can't remember the name. Thanks for posting the thread.



I am not sure of the location of the best place to purchase CA, but I do know.....Not all CA is the same! Titebond seems to give a much smoother and more even coating with less streaking than any of the others.

Walt


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## EricJS (Apr 1, 2013)

hobbit-hut said:


> Ok, so where is the best place to buy the CA Glue. I used to get it from an outfit in California but can't remember the name. There is a difference in quality and freshness of the glue and I never had any problems with it. Just can't remember the name. Thanks for posting the thread.



I buy all my CA & related accessories at exoticblanks.com. They carry a very high quality glue. Try not to stock up too heavily on the glue; the older it is, the longer it takes to cure - among other problems. When I buy, I try to purchase no more than 6 months supply maximum.


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## Bigg081 (Apr 1, 2013)

hobbit-hut said:


> Ok, so where is the best place to buy the CA Glue. I used to get it from an outfit in California but can't remember the name. There is a difference in quality and freshness of the glue and I never had any problems with it. Just can't remember the name. Thanks for posting the thread.


Don't know if you're a Capt Eddie Castelin(YouTube) fan but he swears by Starbond. They have a website but only sell it over the phone or email. I spoke to Capt Eddie personally on the phone and he truly believes I the product and wants to sell I on his site but hasn't found a way to ship it with convenience. I just ordered a 16 bottle ( comes with 3 2oz bottles and 4 caps and 50 applicators.) for $30. I can't speak from experience but of if the Capt gives his word I'll take it.


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## hobbit-hut (Apr 1, 2013)

Bigg081 said:


> hobbit-hut said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, so where is the best place to buy the CA Glue. I used to get it from an outfit in California but can't remember the name. There is a difference in quality and freshness of the glue and I never had any problems with it. Just can't remember the name. Thanks for posting the thread.
> ...



Thanks Bigg081 that was the name I was looking for. I remember it now. Good price too.


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## Bigg081 (Apr 1, 2013)

You're welcome sir. Can't wait to turn that IRW you sen me. Maybe some CA on that. Lol


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## GaSawmiller (Apr 1, 2013)

haddenhailers said:


> Keep accelerator handy so when you glue the paper towel to your hand, you can set it quickly and stop the burning (this is mostly for thin ca)..... not that I would know this from experience or anything!



I noticed that most people used just medium so I ordered that and accelerator.


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## Wildthings (Apr 1, 2013)

Lots of great info here. Let me share my way.
After turning my blank to the size I want. I’ll sand it through 100, 150, 220, 300, 400 and 600. The grit I start with depends how the finishing cut came out. 
Then I mount the blank BTC if it was turned on a mandrel which now days is almost none.
I don a Harbor Freight blue nitrile glove on the left hand and with the lathe on slow speed ~550 rpm, I apply the CA. With my right hand I drip Medium CA on the top of the blank in the middle and the gloved finger barely touching the bottom drag the CA to one end. Back to the middle, another drop and drag to the other end. Step back wipe the excess CA off the gloved finger with a paper towel. Grab my accelerator and psssst a small amount at the blank. Put the accelerator down and grab the medium CA bottle and repeat with the next finger. Repeat all steps above though all 4 fingers TWICE for a total of 8 coats.

Put away the CA, accelerator and pull off the glove. Set a bowl of water under the blank. Turn the lathe off and grab some 150 grit sandpaper yes 150 grit. Sand lengthwise while rotating the blank by hand pretty aggressively. This removes the majority of the high spots. Squirt the dust off with water, turn the lathe on about 1000 rpm and wet sand with 600 till the blank is dull.

I stop the lathe and wipe the blank DRY with a paper towel. Look at the blank with a bright light shining on it. Rotate it by hand. If you see any shiny spots/streaks it’s back to wet sanding with 600 only until those shiny spots are gone.

All shiny spots gone!! Now it’s time to make it shine. Back to the mm through all grits (9 I think) Dry it off and polish it twice with Meguire’s Plastic Polish. Finish with a coat of Renaissance wax.

From the time I mount the blank for CA'ing til the time I'm done it's no more than 15 minutes

WT


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## EricJS (Apr 1, 2013)

Ryan, there's lots of excellent advice here. You may notice a lot of differences in technique, but all of them work well for each member. You can customize your technique based on their experiences. 

The most important thing you need to understand while learning these methods is that you must have a well ventilated work area, and use a respirator if possible, each time you work with CA. I once thought I was "bullet proof" when it came to CA and I didn't ventilate well. It took fewer than 50 applications until I started having reactions.

It's really not a matter of "if" but a matter of "when" the fumes will affect you. For some, it happens in the first few tries, others may take years. Even if you don't have reactions, the fumes are very dangerous.

Enjoy & be safe!


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## ChrisN (Apr 2, 2013)

haddenhailers said:


> Keep accelerator handy so when you glue the paper towel to your hand, you can set it quickly and stop the burning (this is mostly for thin ca)..... not that I would know this from experience or anything!



:stop: Seriously? :yikes: Do you know what accelerator does to CA glue? The curing process creates heat, and accelerator speeds up the process, creating the heat much faster than normal. If you have a puddle of thin glue, spraying too much accelerator will cause it to "steam" and "boil" and leaves white blobs that we call "popcorn" here at work. I have actually gotten burned when I accidently got accelerator on a small drop of thin glue on my hand. Speaking from experience, I would say NEVER spray accelerator on any glue that is on your skin. It may very well leave you with burns.


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## SENC (Apr 2, 2013)

If you haven't seen enough, yet, Aaron at wingertswoodworks has a really good youtube series on CA finishes for duck calls. Search wingertswoodworks on youtube. I use pretty much the same process except I wetsand through the micromesh series rather than buffing. Great finishes. I did switch to the titebond medium CA he recommends with very good results.


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## GaSawmiller (Apr 2, 2013)

EricJS said:


> Ryan, there's lots of excellent advice here. You may notice a lot of differences in technique, but all of them work well for each member. You can customize your technique based on their experiences.
> 
> The most important thing you need to understand while learning these methods is that you must have a well ventilated work area, and use a respirator if possible, each time you work with CA. I once thought I was "bullet proof" when it came to CA and I didn't ventilate well. It took fewer than 50 applications until I started having reactions.
> 
> ...



I do have a respirator and my lathe is near the double doors to my shop so Ill be sure to follow that advice. Thanks for lookin' out!


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## GaSawmiller (Apr 2, 2013)

SENC said:


> If you haven't seen enough, yet, Aaron at wingertswoodworks has a really good youtube series on CA finishes for duck calls. Search wingertswoodworks on youtube. I use pretty much the same process except I wetsand through the micromesh series rather than buffing. Great finishes. I did switch to the titebond medium CA he recommends with very good results.



Thanks. I did see his videos and to anyone who hasn't seen them they are worth checking out.


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