# Unexplored territory for me



## norman vandyke (Sep 8, 2016)

So, I have this piece of wood(two pieces bookmatched and glued up) that I want to be a box top. I want to keep the live edge and fill around it to make square corners. Question is, what type of resin should I use. It's too big for a casting chamber and I don't cast anyway. I know epoxy resin is used for tables. I want to go with a dark brown or black filling for the live edges and the voids. Anyone know what I should be using?

Reactions: EyeCandy! 3


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## manbuckwal (Sep 8, 2016)

Polytex resin works well for those types of things . Here is a piece of buckeye that was done with polytex that had blue dye added . It was not done by me and not sure if the public is allowed to order it from these guys or not.
decortime.com

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 2 | Informative 1


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## norman vandyke (Sep 8, 2016)

manbuckwal said:


> Polytex resin works well for those types of things . Here is a piece of buckeye that was done with polytex that had blue dye added . It was not done by me and not sure if the public is allowed to order it from these guys or not.
> decortime.com
> 
> 
> View attachment 113132


Can't find out for sale. My guess it's that it's polyester resin from the name *poly*tex? I need to do some more research.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## ripjack13 (Sep 8, 2016)

Can you use the sylmar 41 and add dye to that?


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## norman vandyke (Sep 8, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Can you use the sylmar 41 and add dye to that?


I do have black dye but no idea what sylmar 41 is.


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## ripjack13 (Sep 8, 2016)

That's what Colin was using for his stamp pens...
@Schroedc


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## Schroedc (Sep 8, 2016)

Silmar 41 is a low shrink, crystal clear polyester casting resin. I buy mine from US composites. You can add dyes to it. Do you have a hobby lobby or a Michaels near you? If you're just doing the one project, They would/used to carry a poly casting resin for people that do dolls and other stuff and some of the dyes for it. since you're adding dye you probably don't need to use the crystal clear stuff. You could give US Composites a call and ask what they have that is similar to Silmar 41 but not crystal clear....

Polytex is an Epoxy resin so it's a little different but same end result. I've never used it myself. Whatever you do, plan on pouring your slap a 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger than your finished dimension (When I cast a 16 inch long bar I get almost a 1/4 inch of shrink by the time it's cured)

Unless you can find something local, shipping is the killer, it's considered hazardous material so shipping is almost as much as the resin (24.00 shipping on a 37.00 gallon of resin)

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## Schroedc (Sep 8, 2016)

Woodcraft also carries or did carry polyester casting resin and dyes that would work the same.


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## norman vandyke (Sep 8, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> Silmar 41 is a low shrink, crystal clear polyester casting resin. I buy mine from US composites. You can add dyes to it. Do you have a hobby lobby or a Michaels near you? If you're just doing the one project, They would/used to carry a poly casting resin for people that do dolls and other stuff and some of the dyes for it. since you're adding dye you probably don't need to use the crystal clear stuff. You could give US Composites a call and ask what they have that is similar to Silmar 41 but not crystal clear....
> 
> Polytex is an Epoxy resin so it's a little different but same end result. I've never used it myself. Whatever you do, plan on pouring your slap a 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger than your finished dimension (When I cast a 16 inch long bar I get almost a 1/4 inch of shrink by the time it's cured)
> 
> Unless you can find something local, shipping is the killer, it's considered hazardous material so shipping is almost as much as the resin (24.00 shipping on a 37.00 gallon of resin)


We do have hobby stores around here. I'll check it out tomorrow since it's just the one project in planning right now.

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## Schroedc (Sep 8, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> We do have hobby stores around here. I'll check it out tomorrow since it's just the one project in planning right now.



Too bad you aren't closer, I'd pour it for you.

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## ripjack13 (Sep 10, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> We do have hobby stores around here. I'll check it out tomorrow since it's just the one project in planning right now.



Ebay has a quart...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350301244473?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Ebay has a quart...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/350301244473?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


Picked up some from Michael's yesterday. Takes a couple days to fully cure. Just waiting.

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## Blueglass (Sep 10, 2016)

With the smaller pieces I've done for drum staves I have used cardboard and tape to make forms to pour resin into. I've been thinking about vacuum bags for bigger projects.


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## ripjack13 (Sep 10, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> We do have hobby stores around here. I'll check it out tomorrow since it's just the one project in planning right now.


Did you use some dye in too? Pix?


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Did you use some dye in too? Pix?


I did. Can't see the wood because it's also coated with a thin layer of the epoxy. I used cardboard and tape for the form. Just going to sand all that off.

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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

I might try that same epoxy on these for pot calls but I'm not sure if black is the right color and if I should try to find some pearlite locally.


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## ripjack13 (Sep 10, 2016)

Lots of color an figure on em!


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Lots of color an figure on em!


Agreed. I'm just wondering how well the epoxy will adhere.


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## ripjack13 (Sep 10, 2016)

Is it smooth? To me it looks kind of grainy/porous, if that is, then I see no problem with epoxy stickin itself to it and holding on....


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Is it smooth? To me it looks kind of grainy/porous, if that is, then I see no problem with epoxy stickin itself to it and holding on....


It does have some texture. Mostly just worried about casting workout pressure.


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

Well, here's my setup for those CK blocks. Packing tape around and covering the bottoms. Wish me luck!

Reactions: Like 3


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## norman vandyke (Sep 10, 2016)

Now I wait...


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## Fsyxxx (Sep 10, 2016)

when your sanding these make sure to use a respirator its way bad to breathe. im sure you know but i always need reminder.....

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## manbuckwal (Sep 11, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> It does have some texture. Mostly just worried about casting workout pressure.



One way I have seen used for getting bubbles out is using a little propane torch and going back n forth heating up the surface before it sets up to get the bubbles to rise to the surface


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## rocky1 (Sep 11, 2016)

You running a vibration table Norm??? Palm sander affixed to the work bench somehow would work. (_I was thinking nylon straps wrapped around the sander, with boards screwed tight over the straps maybe._) I believe it was Colin that said he sits his on the table saw with an old banged up blade on it to add vibration.


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## norman vandyke (Sep 11, 2016)

rocky1 said:


> You running a vibration table Norm??? Palm sander affixed to the work bench somehow would work. (_I was thinking nylon straps wrapped around the sander, with boards screwed tight over the straps maybe._) I believe it was Colin that said he sits his on the table saw with an old banged up blade on it to add vibration.


I didn't think of that. Might have you do that next time. I'm just hoping this turns out well.


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## Schroedc (Sep 12, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> It does have some texture. Mostly just worried about casting workout pressure.



Especially if it's slower setting stuff you should be Ok, Might get a tine bubble or two here and there, can always fill with CA. As far as adhesion on those CK pieces, as long as they aren't really smooth or contaminated with any kind of a finish they should stick fine. I'll also take some 150 by hand and make sure I rough up the surface but the resins do soak in a bit creating a bit of a bond line so I think you'll be good. Biggest thing when turning hybrid blanks like that I'm finding, Super scary sharp tools and light easy passes. No need to get aggressive, just take your time.


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## norman vandyke (Sep 12, 2016)

Schroedc said:


> Especially if it's slower setting stuff you should be Ok, Might get a tine bubble or two here and there, can always fill with CA. As far as adhesion on those CK pieces, as long as they aren't really smooth or contaminated with any kind of a finish they should stick fine. I'll also take some 150 by hand and make sure I rough up the surface but the resins do soak in a bit creating a bit of a bond line so I think you'll be good. Biggest thing when turning hybrid blanks like that I'm finding, Super scary sharp tools and light easy passes. No need to get aggressive, just take your time.


Super slow cure time. 3 days. Hopefully, I'll be fine.

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## Schroedc (Sep 12, 2016)

norman vandyke said:


> Super slow cure time. 3 days. Hopefully, I'll be fine.



Cure time that long will be a good thing, especially without pressure, Bubbles float out, plus it has more time to penetrate the wood and form a bond layer.

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## norman vandyke (Sep 12, 2016)

Results of ck casting. No bubbles and holding strong.

Reactions: Like 3 | EyeCandy! 2


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## ripjack13 (Sep 12, 2016)

Nice!!!


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