# Not so hollow hf



## Gixxerjoe04 (Jun 27, 2014)

Well i always like seeing nice looking hollow forms, i guess you could almost classify this as that. Problem is i don't have a tool to hollow it out, so i just drilled to the bottom with a forstner bit, putting my straight bar in to hollow probably would have been a pain and potential to mess up. Anyways, bottom is curly walnut that i got from @Treecycle Hardwoods and the top is curly maple i had but wasn't too curly once it got down to sixe. Thought it turned out good for my first try. The top has the dip in it because i used a faceplate and had to get ride of the screw holes. The top wasn't too bad since it was pretty hard maple but i had cut up 3 blanks expecting to break a couple trying to get it thin.

Reactions: Like 9


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## NYWoodturner (Jun 27, 2014)

Joseph - Great job! So here is my critique... Anytime an animal photo bombs you ~ you lose  If it is a German Shepherd the effects are 10 fold. 
Nice piece but even nicer pup

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Funny 1


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jun 27, 2014)

Haha, yea she was being antsy because I've been in the garage all afternoon and really wants me to throw her ball


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## ironman123 (Jun 27, 2014)

That is very nice Joseph.


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## DKMD (Jun 27, 2014)

Cool! I sometimes wonder why we hollow them... They look the same whether hollow or solid. You nailed the walnut portion of that piece... Sweet curve!


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## SDB777 (Jun 28, 2014)

The finial looks a little 'large' for the piece....

The actual 'form' is pretty cool, and you still have some 'curliness' on it! The 'modified tops' from the faceplate is 'different' but still functions well with the entire piece. Room to grow....so I'll give you a B+ on the form!!! The finish used was ??



Scott (throw the ball, then 'click') B


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jun 28, 2014)

I was afraid of going thinner, didn't want it to break and have to start over and just made it a random length. I used "shine juice" from captain eddie.


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jun 28, 2014)

This is why I'm hesitant to go thin, of course this wood is a lot softer, one chip off the rim that I tried fixing and boom. Was really cool lookin wood too.


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## Kevin (Jun 28, 2014)

Nice form Joseph.

I fixed your post to organize the photo's and text. You can see how to prevent that in the future by reading this tutorial.

http://woodbarter.com/threads/proper-image-insertion.11662/

Those that view on phones are not even aware there's anything wrong with the post. Those of us on large screens though have a heck of a time trying to read the text all broken up and scrunched between the images plastered all over the place.

Back to the HF, I agree with Doc the HF is very well turned. I would play around with a more simple and elegant finial perhaps but I love that hf form. If you turn another finial for it consider a thinner, slightly tapered one with a modest spire on top something like this without that center disk between the arrows, but with a little more pronounced and well defined spire at the top . .





Keep in mind I have only turned one HF and it has no finial. Maybe I need to try one before I go off making such detailed suggestions lol. Again, love the walnut portion of youor piece of art.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Gixxerjoe04 (Jun 28, 2014)

So I tried again going thinner, I don't see how people get theirs so thin. This one was flexing quite a bit, couldn't believe it didn't break, best I can do for now. I can't make smaller spheres because my tools are half an inch which make it hard for tight grooves.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1


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## Kevin (Jun 28, 2014)

Joseph it looks fantastic! Great job it matches well.


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## duncsuss (Jun 29, 2014)

Nice -- second finial is a great improvement. I've got a couple of broken pieces of almost-hollowed-out wood also, just something I'm going to have to keep trying to get right.



Gixxerjoe04 said:


> So I tried again going thinner, I don't see how people get theirs so thin. This one was flexing quite a bit, couldn't believe it didn't break, best I can do for now.


One method is to work in small sections, starting at the end furthest from the headstock. I shape the "teardrop" (onion dome, whatever it's called) first, and sand it. Then I shape the little disk behind the dome, sand it. Then start working my way backwards towards the headstock, thinning down about an inch at a time to the target thickness, and only removing what's absolutely necessary for tool clearance from stuff to the left of that section.

Once it's thinned, it's more difficult to work on anything further to the right -- but not impossible. You can arrange your left hand (assuming the tool is in your right hand) so that the thumb is keeping the tool on the rest and your fingers are curled behind the thin spindle ... touching one finger exactly opposite where the cutting is happening, you can equalize the pressure and keep it from flexing. If your finger gets hot, it's because you're using too much pressure on the tool -- very light gentle cuts are the secret.

Keep it up, you're doing great


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## WoodLove (Jul 2, 2014)

your second finial is much better. I like the shape of the walnut form as well. If you have large tools you can always sacrifice a screwdriver by grinding a skew edge on it...... I use one to make my finials and it works great. I agree with Duncan too, turn your finial in sections, sanding as you go. You will be able to go thinner and have much more control over the finished product. you are making great headway .......


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