# Advice needed for turning 'raw' wood



## kweinert (Mar 14, 2012)

So I've picked up this ash from trimmings they were doing at work. I did grab one branch that's about the right size to turn bottle stoppers from.

The problem is that up until now I've always turned from cut blanks. These are close enough to size that I don't need to cut blanks but I'm not quite sure how to start.

My thought is this:

1) find the center of both ends.
2) turn it between centers until it's round
3) drill and tap the hole, mount it on the mandrel, proceed as normal.

If we presume that the piece is fairly straight is it overkill to do the first two?

I'll be turning some bowls from the bigger (6" to 8") pieces, both end grain and natural edge (because I haven't tried natural edge yet) and any advice on setting those up would be greatly appreciated as well.

I do know that the bigger the piece the slower you should turn it in general and even slower when you start from the log as it won't be centered until it's round. 

Any advice beyond that will be helpful.

Thanks.


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## BangleGuy (Mar 14, 2012)

kweinert said:


> ... Any advice beyond that will be helpful.



IMHO, For the bottle stoppers, I would do steps 1 through 3. Skipping steps 1 and 2 means you will start with a really out-of-balance piece, which can introduce a lot of vibration into your turning. (I use a bench top lathe and vibration/harmonics really screw up my ability to get a good finish.) 

In the end, it all works out probably the same, you might just have to take more finish passes to get it R-E-A-L smooth... Again, IMHO. BG


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## DKMD (Mar 14, 2012)

I think your stopper plan sounds fine... Remember that you won't get the same hold in wet endgrain that you would with dry wood or even wet crossgrain mounting using a screw chuck(or stopper mandrel).

I would use a face plate for the end grain turnings just for holding power... You can use a waste block if you'd like but remember that it's green wood when choosing your glue. Epoxy, CA, and polyurethane(gorilla) glue should work, but I'd avoid titebond with wet wood.

For the natural edge piece, I like to start then between centers so that I can balance the natural edge. Once I have the balance I want, a scroll chuck is my typical holding method. If you start with a faceplate or screw chuck, you're somewhat limited on your ability to adjust the piece to gain a balanced rim. I'd turn a natural edge piece thin to final thickness... The little bit of warp that occurs just adds to the look IMHO.


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## Mike Mills (Mar 15, 2012)

I’ve only turned a few stoppers and they have been from dry wood. In green wood I would add CA after tapping, let it dry and re-tap. Or you could tap first and then mount between centers (using a 60* cone in the tapped hole) and then true up. It will probably not be true after tapping which every method you use and need to be re-trued. 

I tried a couple of end grain wet and without good results. I am assuming you are leaving the pith in with a 6-8” diameter log. David’s faceplate idea is a good one or if you have a set of spigot jaws (spigot 1”+ long) that should hold well.
If I did try a waste block I would turn a spigot on the item and a recess to match in the waste block to give more than just end grain hold.

I also start with a spur drive for natural edge in the size you are talking about. Make sure you cut through the bark and cambium layer enough to get a good seat. I don’t fuss with getting the lower edges to much aligned, only the top.


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