# How would you fix this?



## chippin-in (Mar 15, 2017)

A friend of mine has this bench that has a broken leg. I'm looking for your opinion on how to fix this leg.
I was thinking either regular wood glue or a 5-minute epoxy. The other option was to try to drive a long screw through the top of the leg down into the broken portion in addition to glue or epoxy. My problem is I am not an upholstery guy and I do not believe I should take the top pad off in order to drive to screw in there.
Will glue be enough in your opinion?

Thanks
Robert


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## The100road (Mar 15, 2017)

What about drilling a hole on each broken end to insert a dowl and wood glue?


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## Alan Sweet (Mar 15, 2017)

I like the idea with the dowel. I have used that approach and had no negative feed back. I would suggest squaring off the leg and place it attaches. You may have to add a spacer piece after squaring it off. But that should not be a big deal.

The wood looks very brittle and almost funky. If so, you might try soaking it in wood hardener or even thin CA.

Hope

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## chippin-in (Mar 15, 2017)

The100road said:


> What about drilling a hole on each broken end to insert a dowl and wood glue?



I thought about that. The problem is getting it exactly centered in the top piece and the bottom piece. I considered using marking of some sort on one piece and then fit it into the other piece which would leave a mark where the center is but I'm not exactly sure what I would use


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## ripjack13 (Mar 15, 2017)

@Brink


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## Alan Sweet (Mar 15, 2017)

Since the break is in an area that is round, you could turn a small template that fits tightly over the break of both pieces. Drill an index hole in the template center and use that to mark the center of both pieces. Drill your dowel hole at that center mark and you should have no problems.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Brink (Mar 16, 2017)

End grain gluing, or screws into the end grain will fail. 
That break is in a high leverage, narrow spot, and the failure looks like the leg had been flexed and over stressed for some time.

I would do as @Alan Sweet mentioned, cut out the damaged part and make a spacer to fit.
Then, I'd drill a hole as big as I dare thru the three pieces, slightly larger than a steel rod (headless bolt will do). Glue the end grain, holes, and rod with T-88 epoxy.

https://www.systemthree.com/products/t-88-structural-epoxy-adhesive?gclid=CPr-hK3W2tICFZ2PswodJmgObA

T-88 is structural, has 40 minute open time, fills gaps. I would not use 5 minute stuff.

Reactions: Like 3 | Thank You! 1


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## Tony (Mar 16, 2017)

Robert, @Brink has the right solution for this one I think. For the future, pick up a set of these:


 

Dowell center pins, I think you can get them at HD or Lowes. Real cheap and come in handy as all get out. Drill a hole in one side, insert and tap it against the other piece. Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## chippin-in (Mar 16, 2017)

Brink said:


> T-88 is structural, has 40 minute open time, fills gaps. I would not use 5 minute stuff.



So in other words, DONT use the System Three mirror coat that I ALREADY HAVE. 

thanks @Brink and everyone else for the advice.
Robert

Reactions: Like 1


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## DKMD (Mar 16, 2017)

I'd shy away from resetting a section from the middle because that jagged edge is gonna be really helpful in re-aligning the leg. The drill out and epoxy/rod seems like a great idea, and if it's an oversized hole, accuracy won't be as critical. A standard center finder should get you close enough for government work.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## lonewolf (Mar 17, 2017)

My opinion for what it's worth . forget the epoxy and any metal. This is woodworking. Cut out the entire cove section .turn a replacement with tenons on each end . drill into each part and glue with regular wood glue. This will be plenty strong .

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## lonewolf (Mar 17, 2017)

To be more specific cut out the small flat on each side of cove also. This will provide a good transision point.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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