# Food Safe Finishes



## Kevin (Dec 6, 2011)

I'd like to hear from the turners what finishes you use on your cutting boards, bowls, utensils, and goblets etc. 

And are there some finishes more specifically suited to withstand the affects of wine (as opposed to the wine drinker)? 

Are there any finishes that withstand a warm water soap and rinse better than others? I don't mean dishwasher - I know that's not a good idea for wooden ware. 



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## txpaulie (Dec 6, 2011)

I'm probably an outlier, but I have eaten off of plates and bowls with a poly finish, applied by me.
So far, I ain't dead.

For things like cut and rinse boards, I prefer baby oil.

p


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## Kenbo (Dec 6, 2011)

For cutting boards and the like, I use a mixture of 1 part parrafin wax to 10 parts mineral oil. This works out to be 2 tbsp of wax to 1 cup of oil. I heat the oil just until the wax melts, stir it up and let it cool. It turns into a watery paste like substance that I rub into the boards. Works great.


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## pritchs (Dec 6, 2011)

If you're looking for a polyurethane type finish, I've used both Behlen and General Finished "Salad Bowl" finish. I like the Behlen better, since it doesn't darken the wood quite as much, in my experience anyway. I haven't found it in gallon sized so I've gone to the General Finishes product. It darkens a little more, but still not as much as some other poly's. It takes several coats applied about 24 hours or more apart to give it good washing protection, but if that's done it's pretty tough - and food safe.

That said, I think any polyurethane is probably food safe once it's totally cured. Any left over driers should be essentially encapsulated and pass through the body without being absorbed. More knowledgeable people than I have said that and it makes sense to me.


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## heinz57 (Jan 31, 2012)

I've had pretty good luck using Mahoney's products. I've used both the walnut oil and their oil/wax combo. It's mixed with carnauba, beeswax and walnut oil. 

I like wet sanding with the wax/oil mixture because it cuts down on dust really well. I also like the semi-glossy finish I can get if I polish at a high speed and slightly melt the wax.


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## Gene Howe (Jan 31, 2012)

Behlen's here. 3 coats seem to hold up well to cleaning with a damp cloth after each use.


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## greybeard (Jan 31, 2012)

I am a big fan of the Bioshield products. Thier Herbal Oil and Countertop finish are both great.

http://www.bioshieldpaint.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=84&zenid=0911067f4d1a4c9f0eee7b81db574238


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## Kevin (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks guys. I have a lot of new things to check out. 



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## West River WoodWorks (Mar 16, 2012)

Heres what I use on anything food may come in contact with.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2007233/2039/original-wood-finish-pint.aspx

Works good!

Many people are allergic to nuts, so I avoid this finish and vegetable oil can go rancid.

Like others have said, film finishes when completely cured are food safe. However these finishes can flake off with use. MMM tasty and crunchy!

Good luck with your search and decision.
Tom


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## DKMD (Mar 16, 2012)

I'm a big fan of walnut oil with/without beeswax. I've been using Mahoney's, but I've heard that 'Doctor's' walnut oil is a bit cheaper, so I'll probably try it when I'm nearly out of the Mahoney stuff. Mineral oil hasn't held up well for me, but I'm admittedly lax about reapplying it to utilitarian pieces.


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## cabomhn (Apr 2, 2012)

I did a lot of research on this and found out a few interesting aspects that you wouldn't really consider normally. 

Even though there aren't any traditional finishes that are considered FDA approved, it does not mean that they are hazardous. However, the FDA has not gone so far as to specify that certain finishes CAN'T be used on food dishes, you can put two and two together. 

As far as general consensus, in finishes sold commercially, anything in the finish that would be considered toxic will have evaporated from the finish in no more than 30 days. So, if you say finished in shellac and poly, that maximum you would have to wait would be 30 days to be pretty confident that everything is completely cured. 

Also, there is some concern in ingesting certain heavy metals that can be present is some modern finishes. However, abundances of these metals in most finishes is << 1% so unless you sit there and lick poly bowls for hours, you should be fine. 


However, really the main reason to stay away from finishes like shellac or other finishes similar is that over time they will chip off which will require a complete refinish down the road, vs. if you used different oils and waxes which just require re-application. 


So, to answer your question, it would appear that all finishes are food safe, as long as you aren't a moron :rofl2:  . The biggest concern is the durability of your finish based on usage and frequency!

- Matt


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## davidgiul (Apr 3, 2012)

According to Bob Flexner in his book, "Understanding Wood Finishing", all finishes are food safe once they have fully cured.

Dave


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## brown down (Apr 8, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> According to Bob Flexner in his book, "Understanding Wood Finishing", all finishes are food safe once they have fully cured.
> 
> Dave



should have looked at the threads before i posted mine this morning.


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## MikeMeredith (May 26, 2012)

West River WoodWorks said:


> Heres what I use on anything food may come in contact with.
> 
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2007233/2039/original-wood-finish-pint.aspx
> 
> ...


Of the people reporting "nut allergy" about 90% are allergic to peanuts which are legumes, not nuts. Of the remaining 10%, about 3% are allergic to walnuts (Cashews are the most common nut allergy). The material that causes allergies is protein. Since I make them, I am sure the finishing products from Doctor's Woodshop (doctorswoodshop.com) are pretty close to protein-free since the oil is heated and filtered. 

Except for the drying oils; walnut oil, tung oil and linseed oil, all the vegetable oils will become rancid. The drying oils form a hard, plastic-like material in the wood. Mineral oil will never harden and will eventually be lost from the wood surface and require redressing.


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## MikeMeredith (May 26, 2012)

brown down said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> > According to Bob Flexner in his book, "Understanding Wood Finishing", all finishes are food safe once they have fully cured.
> ...



Flexner is correct until the surface of a film finish is scratched. The cured layer extends only a few microns into the finish layer. When the surface is scratched, uncured material is exposed and the solvents are lost producing a new "cured" area and a weak point in the finish layer. This is perhaps a distinction without a difference, but film finishes are constantly curing and therefore constantly effected by water. A salad bowl should probably get another type of finish.


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## CenTexWoodGuy (May 26, 2012)

I have used Watco Danish and Teak oil finishes on bowls and platters. The claim is that they are both food safe after a two-week curing, I normally give them three weeks. If I'm looking for sheen on the item, I'll mount it on the late after two weeks and wet sand with micro mesh to 12k then give it another week. 

The Watco Teak oil finish seems to stand up better to soap and water, we wash one piece every day and after almost 9 months it still looks good.


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## BassBlaster (May 27, 2012)

MikeMeredith said:


> West River WoodWorks said:
> 
> 
> > Heres what I use on anything food may come in contact with.
> ...



Thanks for joining the site and thanks for this post!! Ive been searching for a new finish for peppermills and many have reccomended Doctors finish. I have stayed away from it due to nut allergies. Guess now, I'll be ordering some!!


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## AXEMAN58 (Dec 13, 2012)

For the past few months, I've been using virgin olive oil on every utility item I've turned. Coat the turning, let it soak in, repeat.After about 6-8 coats, I have a nice, low sheen but highly protective finish that seems to last about as well as anything else I've tried to date.


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## healeydays (Dec 14, 2012)

rbaccus said:


> A mix of mineral oil and paraffin gobbed on and rubbed a bit. then (safely) take a propane torch and start waving it over the cutting board. it will quickly melt and then turn to foam and disappear into the wood. lasts a long time and makes the board water-bloodproof as well. easy on the mineral oil, maybe 10%. this mix of parafin and "snowproof" makes an old leaky pair of leather boots waterproof as well. goes right into the leather. restored many a pair of browning boots like this.------------Bob B:wacko1:



I'm from the same school. I like orange oil and bees wax and use a heat gun to melt it in.


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## hobbit-hut (Dec 14, 2012)

healeydays said:


> rbaccus said:
> 
> 
> > A mix of mineral oil and paraffin gobbed on and rubbed a bit. then (safely) take a propane torch and start waving it over the cutting board. it will quickly melt and then turn to foam and disappear into the wood. lasts a long time and makes the board water-bloodproof as well. easy on the mineral oil, maybe 10%. this mix of parafin and "snowproof" makes an old leaky pair of leather boots waterproof as well. goes right into the leather. restored many a pair of browning boots like this.------------Bob B:wacko1:
> ...



I was at a Juice Plant Facility talking with a supervisor and happen to be standing near a 35 gal. drum sitting off by itself and ask what was in it. He told me it was orange oil. They squeeze the oil out of the peal to make it. It is so acidic they have to ship it as a hazardous material. He said the drum sells for $250,000.00. Most products that have an orange smell like soaps, furniture polish and hundreds of others have that oil in them. A few drops goes a long way.


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## healeydays (Dec 14, 2012)

I've heard the same thing. Anything you buy with the Orange scent uses that stuff from what I have heard. 

For the most part, when I am restoring a piece of natural furnitiure or making one of my barn board door desks/tables I use Howard's Feed-n-wax. Great stuff, and when selling something folks seem to get a bigger smile on their faces when they smell it.
http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-feed-n-wax.php


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