# new end grain closeups



## phinds (Feb 27, 2013)

The thing that I have been least pleased with about my site, for many years now, is the quality of the end grain closeups. Some of them are pretty good, most are mediocre, and quite a few are just crap.

I haven't done anything about it because I knew that it would a major pain in the butt to get it right, but I've finally bitten the bullet and decided to update them. To some extent, I was motivated by Eric Meier whose site "The Wood Database" has some excellent end grain closeups. Eric sent me a link to a demo by a pro in Europe who goes a lot further than what I'm now doing, but it was an inspiration for me to at least do a half-way decent job.

Can you imagine sanding a little area about 3" x 8" over and over for 30 to 40 minutes?. DAMN that's tedious ! That's what it takes to do just the sanding on a set of 10 or so samples. Then I have to take new pics and then put them up on the site. All in all, it is at LEAST as much of a pain as I expected and it's going to take approximately forever to update all the samples on the site.

The good news is that the results are worth it.

A full description is given here: *end grain update* and just so you can see what I'm talking about, here's one of my more crappy originals and the same sample using the new technique, and then a full-sized portion (which is 12x) of each, REALLY showing the difference.


[attachment=19253]
velvet ash end grain closeup (sanded to 200 grit)


[attachment=19254]
the exact same velvet ash piece but with an end grain closeup after sanding at 1200 grit


[attachment=19255]
12x section (old)


[attachment=19256]
12x section (new)


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## barry richardson (Feb 27, 2013)

They look great! what a diference! Could you use a power sanding to speed up the preparation? Quick edit< never mind my question, just read your detailed explaination on your site.


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## Kevin (Feb 27, 2013)

That's a huge difference. Great job Paul it'll be worth it. Heck you're snowed in anyway you got time.


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## elnino (Feb 27, 2013)

how do you get the 12 picture that looks pretty darn clear? camera? settings?


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## phinds (Feb 28, 2013)

elnino said:


> how do you get the 12 picture that looks pretty darn clear? camera? settings?



My Canon SX40 has a zoom feature that allows up to 20x if you can get light to the subject past the lens enclosure. I stick with 12x because that's very easy AND because ~10x is about all one should expect from a normal woodworker since 10x loops are easy to come by. The camera also has a distance zoom of 35x which is pretty cool.


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## LoneStar (Feb 28, 2013)

How are you sanding them ? I have 5" sanding wheel mounted to an arbor on a 1/4 hp motor. It uses hook and loop backing so changing grit is really fast. Sanding that at 120, 220 and then 360 Abralon pads would give you a finish just as smooth and clean in a matter of 10-20 seconds at each grit. 
I dont know if anyone here uses Abralon ? They are expensive both worth every penny !


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## phinds (Feb 28, 2013)

LoneStar said:


> How are you sanding them ? I have 5" sanding wheel mounted to an arbor on a 1/4 hp motor. It uses hook and loop backing so changing grit is really fast. Sanding that at 120, 220 and then 360 Abralon pads would give you a finish just as smooth and clean in a matter of 10-20 seconds at each grit.
> I dont know if anyone here uses Abralon ? They are expensive both worth every penny !



I use abralon stand-alone pads(but not for this process), haven't ever used any of their stuff with power tools.

I'm writing up a brief description of the process I use. I wish it were even a tiny bit as simple as you make it out and I'll be delighted to find a way to make it so, but for me it take about 45 minutes to do a set of 10. 

I'll post a link when I get the writeup done.

For one thing, 360 won't come close to doing the job. I was afraid 1200 wasn't going to be enough but it is.


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## phinds (Feb 28, 2013)

I've added the process description to the end of the original web page:

http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_endgrainUPDATE/index.htm


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## LoneStar (Feb 28, 2013)

Try Abralon on your sander. I dont know how well the ROS does, I sand at 1700 RPM on a motor. I think you can get a glass finish with 350 and then 500 Abralon
I finish my pipes with it, my process is something like 60 grit to shape, smooth with 120 and 220 then 350 Abralon.
The only thing after that is buffing and this is the finish I get on the briar bowl and rubber stem.
http://i1104.Rule #2/albums/h336/axfight/rick021.jpg


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## LoneStar (Feb 28, 2013)

What I use is this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Neiko-Vinyl-Face-Air-Sanding-Pads-5-FindingKing-/350726688530?pt=Sanders_Sandblasters&hash=item51a8f08f12
I have an arbor that mounts to the 5/8" shaft on a motor and this pad just screws on and off the arbor. If you have any interest in it, I can send a link to the arbor which is about $40.
I guess the pads are typically used in a DA sander for doing autobody work.
The way I have mine set up takes a bit of practice because you only use one side of the pad at a time. You have to hold the wood at a slight angle so it only contacts half of the wheel. Hard to explain, but versatile. I do all of my pipe shaping on it but I also use it to quickly sand rough pieces to see color/grain/figure on blocks.


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