# Norfolk Island Pine - first time, tips?



## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

I got a couple of pieces of NIP, about 10" diameter, 5"--6" thick cookies. Both have the traditional ring of knots.

The obvious choice would be to turn them end-grain into something bowl-shaped -- but since I've never turned it before, I thought I'd ask if there are any sensible alternatives (that don't involve shipping it someplace else or cutting it up for pens/hairsticks )

Anything tricky about it to watch out for?

Thanks!

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## Tom Smart (Sep 12, 2016)

Duncan, look here for some tips on turning NIP - www.woodturningblanks4u.com. 

I have not turned any yet but I stopped in there a few days ago and came away with several blanks. They were telling me to look carefully at the pith on the knots. It will be off center indicating which way the branch was growing and therefore how it is oriented in the blank, up or down. If turning a bowl you have to chuck it up one way and a hollow form the opposite so you don't turn the effects of the branches off. I don't recall which way is what but it is described on their website, along with other tips.

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## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

Thanks @Tom Smart -- some very useful information on the tips page. I might even have some of that pentacryl in a cupboard somewhere (long past its sell-by date, I'm sure!)


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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

Oh yea, I say unto thee... Ask and Ye shall receive!!! Norfolk Island Pine knot direction commin at ya!

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## Tom Smart (Sep 12, 2016)

Duncan, I came away with some of the pentracryl and Odie's oil, neither of which I have tried yet. While I was at their shop (home actually) Steve Arnold was finishing a NIP hollow form and applying the Odie's oil by hand without a rag. It was a beautiful piece. I'm anxious to get home and try these blanks.

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## ripjack13 (Sep 12, 2016)

@Don Ratcliff has done a couple vessels...maybe he could offer some "whimsical" advice?

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

Gents. I turn lots of NIP. It's yellow when the live tree is first cut down & spalts with dark areas in a few months here in south Florida. Almost all dark in 8 to 10 months...How fresh is the NIP you have?? You can set the cut log end on dirt to spalt quicker.

After turning my shape & dried - takes a day if turned thin to dry, a couple days if over 1/4", sanding & form completed, I brush on several coats of boiled linseed oil, cut 50/50 with odorless mineral spirits(OMS), on wall thickness's over 1/4" or soak it in the oil for a day or two on thinner walled pieces to make it translucent.
Next is wipe excess oil from surface with OMS & paper towels and let air for half hour or longer.
** *PAPER TOWELS, RAGS OR WOOD CHIPS WITH LINSEED OR OTHER OIL FINISHED CAN SPONTANIOUSLY CATCH FIRE!!!!!!! TAKE THEM OUTSIDE & LAY FLAT TO DRY OR PUT INTO METAL CONTAINER WITH TIGHT FITTING LID!!*

Then I paint every surface of the oiled wood with Japan Drier(JD), available at most big box or hardware stores. The next day oil will be dry.
I spray or wipe on polyurethane to the desired finish. Before I started using JD I would need ten coats of poly to get a glass like finish. With the drier only 4 or 5 coats needed plus the oil won't bleed out if the piece heats up setting in the sun.

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> @Spinartist
> 
> 
> What about that fabulous @spinartist guy??

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> I got a couple of pieces of NIP, about 10" diameter, 5"--6" thick cookies. Both have the traditional ring of knots.
> 
> The obvious choice would be to turn them end-grain into something bowl-shaped -- but since I've never turned it before, I thought I'd ask if there are any sensible alternatives (that don't involve shipping it someplace else or cutting it up for pens/hairsticks )
> 
> ...




Turn it as wet as you can. When very dry lots of torn end grain. Use sharp tools with absolute bevel contact & slow deliberate final cuts. Spray water on for final cuts helps too.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> Turn it as wet as you can. When very dry lots of torn end grain. Use sharp tools with absolute bevel contact & slow deliberate final cuts. Spray water on for final cuts helps too.



I'd better get moving on it then. I believe the person who sent them to me had put some kind of sealant on the ends, all the same I slapped Anchorseal on them as soon as I unpacked the LFR boxes they came in. I'm not sure when he cut them, I got them four days ago -- I hope I get time to at least rough them out this week or weekend.

Thank you for all the guidance and pix -- much appreciated


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## Don Ratcliff (Sep 12, 2016)

The only thing I could add is thin ca on the knots as they get things to prevent them from knocking out.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> I'd better get moving on it then. I believe the person who sent them to me had put some kind of sealant on the ends, all the same I slapped Anchorseal on them as soon as I unpacked the LFR boxes they came in. I'm not sure when he cut them, I got them four days ago -- I hope I get time to at least rough them out this week or weekend.
> 
> Thank you for all the guidance and pix -- much appreciated




If its all yellow on ends leave it set to darken. People like it more with a mix of dark & amber.

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

Don Ratcliff said:


> The only thing I could add is thin ca on the knots as they get things to prevent them from knocking out.




Agreed!!! I c/a glue the knots most of the time! But try not to get it on the other wood if you want to oil it or glue streaks will show where the oil didn't soak in.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Don Ratcliff (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> If its all yellow on ends leave it set to darken. People like it more with a mix of dark & amber.


And electrifying

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## Fsyxxx (Sep 12, 2016)

Tom Smart said:


> Duncan, I came away with some of the pentracryl and Odie's oil, neither of which I have tried yet. While I was at their shop (home actually) Steve Arnold was finishing a NIP hollow form and applying the Odie's oil by hand without a rag. It was a beautiful piece. I'm anxious to get home and try these blanks.


Odies oil = Da bomb.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> I'd better get moving on it then. I believe the person who sent them to me had put some kind of sealant on the ends, all the same I slapped Anchorseal on them as soon as I unpacked the LFR boxes they came in. I'm not sure when he cut them, I got them four days ago -- I hope I get time to at least rough them out this week or weekend.
> 
> Thank you for all the guidance and pix -- much appreciated




I almost never rough them out to return later. I dries very fast & doesn't move or go out of round much. Will lose diameter size from shrinkage.


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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

Fsyxxx said:


> Odies oil = Da bomb.




Got any photos of NIP with Odie's on it??


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## Fsyxxx (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> Got any photos of NIP with Odie's on it??


Not nip but I use it an just about everything else that I'm not gonna high gloss. It's the easiest finish I've ever used and makes the grain pop like an oil without a ton of work.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> I almost never rough them out to return later. I dries very fast & doesn't move or go out of round much. Will lose diameter size from shrinkage.


I can do the "turn it green the whole way" thing -- so long as I start with the right mindset. Mostly I have to remember to get the outside as close to perfect as I can before starting on the innards (which I often don't bother doing if I know I'm going to set it aside and finish turn it in a few months.)


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## Tom Smart (Sep 12, 2016)

Fsyxxx said:


> Not nip but I use it an just about everything else that I'm not gonna high gloss. It's the easiest finish I've ever used and makes the grain pop like an oil without a ton of work.



From the piece I watched being worked on it did not appear to darken with the Odie's oil like say a walnut oil finish. Do you find that to be true, @Fsyxxx?


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## DKMD (Sep 12, 2016)

I have limited experience with it because the Hawaiians and Floridians hoard it and taunt us with it....

From the little bit I've been able to turn, it cuts a lot of soft maple but sands even better. If you choose to go thin with a piece of it(and you should), using a light on the outside while hollowing the inside is almost like cheating.

Looking forward to seeing the finished works!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Fsyxxx (Sep 12, 2016)

Tom Smart said:


> From the piece I watched being worked on it did not appear to darken with the Odie's oil like say a walnut oil finish. Do you find that to be true, @Fsyxxx?


I'd say it darkens some but not as much as lighter viscosity oils. Odies is thicker and doesn't soak in as much.

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

And... NIP is deceivingly soft!! The knots are hard, almost like ceramic but the soft wood contains silica and dulls good quality HHS tools in about 5 minutes. REALLY. So pay attention if after 5 min. the cutting seems to get harder.

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## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> And... NIP is deceivingly soft!! The knots are hard, almost like ceramic but the soft wood contains silica and dulls good quality HHS tools in about 5 minutes. REALLY. So pay attention if after 5 min. the cutting seems to get harder.


Pretty much everything I've turned the last couple of weeks has been "soft (but dulls tools rapidly)" 

I'm thinking the redwood root burl that @Anthony sent me, and the chamise burl from @vegas urban lumber -- you can easily dent them with a fingernail, but a gouge holds an edge for about 30 seconds

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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

Yep. Some woods have high silica content.


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## Spinartist (Sep 12, 2016)

DKMD said:


> I have limited experience with it because the Hawaiians and Floridians hoard it and taunt us with it....
> 
> From the little bit I've been able to turn, it cuts a lot of soft maple but sands even better. If you choose to go thin with a piece of it(and you should), using a light on the outside while hollowing the inside is almost like cheating.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the finished works!




What you talkin bout Willis???

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## Don Ratcliff (Sep 12, 2016)

For the record I don't have any NIP only have cook pine. More rings of branches...

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## Tom Smart (Sep 12, 2016)

Spinartist said:


> What you talkin bout Willis???
> 
> View attachment 113391



Whoa, and here I thought I had hit the jackpot.

Reactions: Like 2 | EyeCandy! 1 | Agree 1


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## Tim Carter (Sep 12, 2016)

Another trick to make Norfolk easier to turn is to soak the blank in a bucket of water overnight to rehydrate it and it will turn much more easily and cleanly.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## duncsuss (Sep 12, 2016)

Tim Carter said:


> Another trick to make Norfolk easier to turn is to soak the blank in a bucket of water overnight to rehydrate it and it will turn much more easily and cleanly.


Oooh -- I would not have thought of doing this. Thanks!


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## vegas urban lumber (Sep 12, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Pretty much everything I've turned the last couple of weeks has been "soft (but dulls tools rapidly)"
> 
> I'm thinking the redwood root burl that @Anthony sent me, and the chamise burl from @vegas urban lumber -- you can easily dent them with a fingernail, but a gouge holds an edge for about 30 seconds


 
might be the rocks in that chamise burl, lol

Reactions: Funny 2


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