# Need a big chainsaw and a CSM ?'s



## HVGameCalls (Feb 19, 2016)

I looking at getting a bigger chainsaw and a Chainsaw Mill.I don't have any experience with a CSM but I have put lots of time in behind a big chainsaw.

The saw I'm looking at is a Husqvarna 394.Would this saw be able to handle a 42" bar or should I stay in the 30-36" range?Also looking at maybe a Husqvarna 2100 if I could find one for the right price.Reason behind a 42" is I have got a big Tulip Poplar and a White Oak I need to take down.They will be around 36-38" at the butt and will likely need a 42" bar to mill them.

I've been looking at CSM's and the Panther Mill II and The Granger Alaskan Mill are the two I'm looking at.I'm leaning more towards the Panther Mill II as it does weigh more and seems like it would be more stable while milling. So what would guys say is the way to go?


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 19, 2016)

The husky 394 will do just fine. Weight is not an advantage with a csm, in fact I like my granberg alaskan because it is light weight. We have had extensive discussions on csm's here. Just do a search and look through the threads, there's lots of good info from all sides.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## HomeBody (Feb 20, 2016)

I'm using a Logosol M7 and a Stihl 660 Mag with 28" bar. Soon to be a 36" bar. I works great for me. Gary

Reactions: Like 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Feb 20, 2016)

I am milling with a 394xp. I had it ported and it screams now. Not to say it wasn't a beast before though. I am currently running a 36" panther mill and a 36" canon superbar. I'll look around and see if I can find the threads where I discussed everything in detail.

@Kevin has a video floating around here somewhere of him freehand milling with a 72" bar on his 394 or 395, can't remember which one but pretty much the same saw. 

I'm saving up for a 66" granberg kit. I've been very happy with my panther mill, but it's frikkin heavy, and there's no way I'm going to subject myself to the added weight of longer steel rails and a 66" bar, so the aluminum should help a lot with that.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## truettb (Mar 7, 2016)

Hi, 
My experience over the past few years is that the size of logs that present them selves seems to be related to the size of my current mill/chainsaw/bars, in other words, they seemed always a bit bigger. I was happily milling along with my little Stihl 290 and a 20" bar on an Alaskan small log mill; then bigger and bigger logs showed up and I either had to drastically change my techniques (usually for the worse ;-), or upsize. Now I have an MS460 and my dedicated milling saw, an 084, which is 121cc. I moved up from a 36" Alaskan mill, to a 72". 
There was always just that extra inch or so that I couldn't get through; I'd take off the felling spikes, inch the mill out to that last fraction of an inch, just short of pinching the sprocket nose, etc. 
So I'd say, go light and long on the mill, and invest in the most powerful saw you can get. If the log is not that big, you can still mill it with a 5 foot bar (although I prefer to fit the mill/bar to the log). If you're like me, the shorter mill/bar/chain will still get used, but I'm ready for just about anything that comes along now (within reason ;-)
Don't forget, though, that if your bar is too long for the powerhead, you'll strain it and it can be the reason that your cuts take forever, the chain wears out prematurely, and you have chronic trouble with the powerhead. Example: I've used a 42" bar with my MS460, but it's not really happy with a bar that long. It maxes out about a 32" IMHO; that's for milling, now, which is hard on the equipment. Crosscutting, the 460 can drive a 36" bar quite nicely. The 084, on theater hand, will pull just about any length (is it's well- tuned).
I'm sure you know all this too, but the importance of using wedges, auxiliary oil past a certain length, trying to get a down-slope on your log, using a throttle lock, etc, can't be overemphasized. 
Cheers!
Truett

Reactions: Like 1


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