# Hollowing



## Graybeard (Mar 9, 2016)

Curious what you use to hollow vessels? Hand held, articulated or captured system?

I'm using the Jamison Captured system now but struggle with the laser staying put and the cutter head.


----------



## DKMD (Mar 9, 2016)

I use a mix of handheld and articulating tools. I've got a captured system, but I've never developed a feel for it. I don't mind the laser on my Monster articulating system, but I'm not sure how it differs from the Jamison laser. One of these years I'm going to replace the laser with a small camera and video screen setup similar to the system that Trent Bosch sells(but I'll do it on the cheap).


----------



## Tim Carter (Mar 11, 2016)

The problem with the bouncing laser on the Jamieson system can be reduced by filling the hollow supporting tubes with a dense material like concrete or mortar. I don't understand the problem you're having with the cutter head.


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 11, 2016)

Tim Carter said:


> The problem with the bouncing laser on the Jamieson system can be reduced by filling the hollow supporting tubes with a dense material like concrete or mortar. I don't understand the problem you're having with the cutter head.



I wonder if he meant the laser staying put ON the cutter head.... On one of the rigs I was using we hung a little bag of shot to dampen out the vibration. I've played a little with the Carter hollowing system and so far no issues I think because of the heavy duty beefy rod the laser is mounted on. If the tubes are hollow might want to think about pouring in some melted lead if you can get a pile of wheel weights to melt down....


----------



## Dennis Ford (Mar 11, 2016)

I use hand held tools for smaller hollow forms and a captured system for deep vessels. On some vessels, I use both; the hand held for work near the opening and the captured system for the deeper portion. Vibration is an issue when using a laser, I keep the laser off until needed.


----------



## West River WoodWorks (Mar 11, 2016)

I have the Carter hollowing system as well, added the hunter carbide cutter and the laser. I like the system but it doesn't work very well on small hollowforms. I picked up the number one and #3 Easywood Hollowers and like them a lot. Lots of stopping and measuring the wall thickness though.


----------



## bamafatboy (Mar 12, 2016)

Hand held tools for the vessels that I have turned, I have only turned small vessels. However my wife's boss is a vet and she wants me to try to turn an urn for pet ashes, because she offers pet cremation. Anyone turned one, and if so, how do you determine the size to make? Just wondering.


----------



## Graybeard (Mar 12, 2016)

Tim Carter said:


> The problem with the bouncing laser on the Jamieson system can be reduced by filling the hollow supporting tubes with a dense material like concrete or mortar. I don't understand the problem you're having with the cutter head.



I've replaced the upright piece with a heavier piece of solid metal. Still the connection pieces are sloppy. I ground a flat on the upright, then wrapped with blue masking tape to make a tight fit. Before it would pivot on the thumb screw side to side.

The cutter head can move on me as well as the laser moving. Maybe I'm too heavy handed. My dad used to call me old lead foot.


----------



## TimR (Mar 12, 2016)

David, take some pics of your system, might help identify areas of improvement. Also, just remember as a general rule, once you hang out over the tool rest more than 15X the diameter of the your boring bar...things start shaking a bit more, and that's with solid boring bars. Mass is definitely your friend when hollowing, and so is slick surfaces. You should be able to move the bar around without feeling ANY resistance on the toolrest or the captured support at the back. Wax/lubricate these sliding surfaces often.


----------



## Tim Carter (Mar 12, 2016)

OK, now I understand your problem! I use a 3/16" square HSS cutter in the system and really crank down on the screw to tighten it. I replaced the screw that came with the cutter holder with a longer screw that threads all the way through the holder. Gives it more gripping power. You'll end up replacing the screw fairly often but they're cheap and easy to replace. When the cutters are new, they're about 2" long which allows me to position the back portion of it so it jams against the bar. Hope these ideas help.


----------



## Graybeard (Mar 12, 2016)

Thanks Guys. Great suggestion on the screw! 
I'll get some pictures between trips to the bathroom. Too much information I know.


----------



## DKMD (Mar 12, 2016)

bamafatboy said:


> Hand held tools for the vessels that I have turned, I have only turned small vessels. However my wife's boss is a vet and she wants me to try to turn an urn for pet ashes, because she offers pet cremation. Anyone turned one, and if so, how do you determine the size to make? Just wondering.



I've always used one cubic inch per pound of live weight. I've turned a couple of urns, and that formula has served me well.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## Graybeard (Mar 12, 2016)

Here are some pictures:




This joint has been welded and a screw used for the thumb screw. The problem is the hole is not tight. With the blue tape it's better but I'm thinking about adding another thumb screw 90 degrees around. 



Laxer holder. As long as the tube goes all the way through it seems to hold ok.





This is the joint that holds the top tube and allows it to slide back and fourth to adjust the distance. The two thumb screws on the top seem to hold well but the bottom hold is sloppy and the top actually will pivot on that one thumb screw. Again, thinking a second thumb screw 90 degrees around would stabilize it?



I did get some longer #10-32 nuts with lock washers and it really tightens down nice. Thanks for that tip.


----------



## Schroedc (Mar 12, 2016)

A 2nd screw 90 degrees off the first would make a world of difference. Also- If it has slop in it, instead of the blue tape, see about getting some stainless shim stock to use instead. It won't compress and moosh out from under the screw like the tape does.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Graybeard (Mar 13, 2016)

I'm having second thoughts about that top connection in the bottom picture. Sometimes I need to make an adjustment by pulling or pushing the arm away or toward me. If I completely tightened that I'd not be able to make that move.


----------



## TimR (Mar 14, 2016)

Graybeard said:


> I'm having second thoughts about that top connection in the bottom picture. Sometimes I need to make an adjustment by pulling or pushing the arm away or toward me. If I completely tightened that I'd not be able to make that move.


Yea, but adding one more screw, at the very top (90 Deg off the other 2) would only add one more screw to loosen when making your adjustments. That shouldn't be a big deal. When you're all done, if you can lightly pull/tug/lift on the arm and it feels sloppy in any of those fits...you gotta address with more screws or a better connection, period. 
Also, I agree with needing steel shim on the lower connection where the blue tape is...recipe for disaster as shown. Also, that sort of bolted connection is going to be problematic with a 'loose fit' as you have. If you don't have a compelling reason why you can't leave that always connected, I'd slather some JB weld on that connection before fitting it up, loosely insert the bolt, then tighten after the JB weld cures...or braze/solder the connection.


----------



## Graybeard (Mar 15, 2016)

Thank you Tim. I also agree with your suggestion to lubricate the rails and tool rest. I have some old paraffin that my mother used for sealing jelly many years ago. It seems to work well.

I found out the system I have was made by Craft Supply based on Jamison's plans. I wonder if other makers have better tolerances?

I can't think of a reason to not permanently attach the bottom piece. 

Thanks for the suggestions, I appreciate it.


----------

