# Spoon/hook knives



## Strider (Mar 10, 2018)

Finally done! They took me a while, I've had other things to do. Hate to see them in the corner covered with the wrong type of the dust.

However, here they are- my spoon knives. Not crook/ed knives, that's another type of working tool distinguished with an angle between the handle and the blade looking topwise. That's where it gets the name, not because of the small curve on the tip.

These are spoon/bowl carving knives also known as hook knives. Not hoof knives. They are another story as well! :D

All are made out of AISI 1075 steel, different hardnesses, width, thickness and curves. Shaving sharp. Order by manufacture date.

1) 2017; Croatian plum, slotted and riveted tang construction. Forged finnish look. BLO/Beeswax handle coating. Rounded rectangle cross section.










2) USA black walnut and ice resin epoxy collar dyed blue. I invented that collar bolster and I like it. :D what do you guys think of it? Rounded triangle criss section. Chunky for bigger hands. Satin forged finish. Hidden tang construction.










3) Croatian tiger maple, longer and wider for bigger hands. Tung oil finish. Rounded rectangle and diamond cross section. Rugged forged finish with file marks. Slotted and riveted full tang construction.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1 | Funny 1 | Way Cool 7


----------



## Wildthings (Mar 10, 2018)

Very nice! love the peened rivets

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Strider (Mar 10, 2018)

4) USA black walnut and clear resin collar. Slotted, hidden and riveted full tang construction- sandwich. BLO/beeswax finish. Rounded rectangle cross section with tapers on all sides. Belly round, back is flat. Gosh what a grip! Wide blade, satin finish.










5) USA Yellow cedar burl and clear epoxy collar. Octagonal cross section. Non symmetrical taper for better palm grip on the end. Slotted hidden tang construction. Handle is riveted actually, not the tang. YCB smells so nice! Lightest of them all! Smallest diameter and the thinnest blade too. Satin finish.







6) 2014; This is number one actually. First ever made. Extra curved ehuch isn't a good thing as it can cut me. Simple Al pins and the balde is the chainsaw guidebar sides, super thin and flexuble! Beech handle no finish. It cuts hahah!






And the evolution

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 6


----------



## Strider (Mar 10, 2018)

And a "twca cam" I've posted some time ago last year. Not really aspoon knife, but multi purpose carving tool. Well it's a spoon knife on steroids!

Croatian black locust handle with a briar spacer and antler bolster. Also 1075, polished hammer marks. Super thin and flexible, rounded spine ridges. Isn't glued so you can take it apart for better storage.
Hidden tang construction.

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 5


----------



## NYWoodturner (Mar 10, 2018)

Nice work Loris. Post a couple vids of them in use. They are very interesting!

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## barry richardson (Mar 10, 2018)

Very nice! Have you made many bowls/spoons with them?


----------



## DKMD (Mar 11, 2018)

Cool! I like the casting work.


----------



## Strider (Mar 13, 2018)

Thanks lads!
I can make a video, why not!
I've used only number 6 to carve a plum spoon. Some light test on the steamed beach and plum wood were done, for edge retention and general grip, angle of the blade and wrist action with the rest of the knives and all of them did nice.

Now, I'm no expert, but I see most people do hollow ground insides on the blade, but I don't see the point, as the rough hollow groove makes direct contact with the wood chips, making far more friction than plain chisel grind. If I am wrong, please correct me. 

I have another casting work, @DKMD . It will be a black locust burl that anchors the end of the tang, and the rest is resin. Will look wicked!

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Strider (Mar 13, 2018)

Oh, and I have found out that the most important blows on the brass rivets are the first 4 (or so) ones. I anneal the brass rod by heating it red hot on a gas stove, and quenching it in water. It does the opposite of steel. With the first several hits you get the "mushroom" shape. I hit with roughly under 45 degrees to the pin face. Every blow afterwards is final touching. Bigger hammer at first, then lighter one (I don't have a ball peen hammer). I am not sure if I can call my smallest hammer a tool, rather a toy. 
I once heard hitting a pin/rivet on the face too hard will make it's middle section swell, thus cracks on the wood may occur, mind you!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Strider (Apr 15, 2018)

A new one, and the last. Black locust burl and resin. I like how it turned out! How do you like it?

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 3


----------



## ClintW (Apr 15, 2018)

Very cool! These tools look very professional And you sure have gotten the bending and shaping down well! I have tried to make a few hook knives, and I know they can be challenging. Do you use a form to wrapped the heated steel around to get the bend?

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Chris Geeo (Apr 15, 2018)

Those are awesome! That Yellow Cedar is in a great place on that blade!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Strider (Apr 16, 2018)

@ClintW I just cut and shape the blade, make the bevel and then heat it up, and lightly hit around a steel rod. Well, a big steel rod. At first it was very tricky, but then I got a bend of it, and everything else is a product of my imagination, as there are not that many designs I was able to find online. I hope I will inspire someone to try it out! :)

I will make a video tomorrow, and show how well they cut. Super fun projects! I am just polishing the resin a bit more with a different compound.


----------



## Strider (Apr 24, 2018)

I prezent you the requested video! The last one wasn't sharpened, I forgot. It cut still with ease..

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 2


----------

