# Chainsaw issues



## LemonadeJay (Feb 23, 2014)

I am having chainsaw issues.

My old reliable Craftsman junker won't keep it's chain tight. It has one of those tool-less tightener systems and the chain just keeps coming lose.

My Husqvarna keeps binding up. The motor is running fine but when I am cutting a big log it stops like when the end of the saw gets pinched. I changed the chain and the bar. Took off the piece over the "chain drive" and blew it out with the air compressor. I notice the round metal band in there looked a little "off" so I cleared a few chips from behind it and pushed it in a little further. I put it back together and it ran long enough to cut 10 more piece of 24" diameter maple then it locked up again.

Any ideas for a remedy?

I won't even tell you about the little electric one I use when I need to trim a blank while in the shop.


Thanks,
Jay


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## DKMD (Feb 23, 2014)

I wonder if the chain is stretched out on the first saw you mentioned. I'm not familiar with the tightening system you mentioned, so it may not be that at all.


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## LemonadeJay (Feb 23, 2014)

I changed the chain and the bar on that one too.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 23, 2014)

The craftsman probably needs a new side cover as that is where the tensioner and the bar tightening nut both are. They are known for going bad. This is only a guess without seeing it. 
The husky sounds like the brake mechanism is engaged or won't disengage. Again a guess without seeing it. I am assuming it was still running after it locked up?
It's pretty hard to diagnose a machine problem with out seeing it. I can only give you some pointers on things to look at.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Brink (Feb 23, 2014)

What model Husky?


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## LemonadeJay (Feb 23, 2014)

I think it is a Husky 440. I am itching to get one with a larger engine and bar. This is an 18".


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## Brink (Feb 23, 2014)

The husky almost sounds like the chain is too tight.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Kevin (Feb 23, 2014)

Jay you have some good ideas from the other guys to check, but addressing your comment about the electric chainsaw - I love them. In fact I use one in the shop often. They cut every bit as well with a sharp chain as long as you don't ask them to do more than they're designed for. Don't be ashamed of your electric saw it's a man tool as much as the gassers. :-)

Reactions: Agree 2


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## LemonadeJay (Feb 23, 2014)

I love the electric for that too. The reason I said that is because I hit a piece of metal in wood last week and it stopped working.

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 23, 2014)

A good electric chain saw is a real tool for sure, like Kevin said. It is capable of sending you to the hospital just like a gas saw.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## manbuckwal (Feb 23, 2014)

Is the oiler working properly on the husky ?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## LemonadeJay (Mar 2, 2014)

Thanks for the tips. Forgive my ignorance for the proper terminology but the problem with the Husky seems to be that the "nose sprocket" is getting bound up. The little teeth that spin in the end of the bar. I changed the bar and the same thing happened again after using it for a little while. Could it be that oil is not getting to the tip to help them spin?

The saw seems oily under the cover for the main drive "sprocket".


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 2, 2014)

LemonadeJay said:


> Thanks for the tips. Forgive my ignorance for the proper terminology but the problem with the Husky seems to be that the "nose sprocket" is getting bound up. The little teeth that spin in the end of the bar. I changed the bar and the same thing happened again after using it for a little while. Could it be that oil is not getting to the tip to help them spin?
> 
> The saw seems oily under the cover for the main drive "sprocket".


That is the first thing you should look at. A test to see if the oiler is working is mount the bar without the chain, start it and let it idle sitting on the ground or on a piece of cardboard preferably. There should develop a puddle of oil under the saw if the oiler is working. I know you said it is a new bar, is it the correct one for the saw? The reason I ask this is because it could mount up but the oil holes might not line up if it is incorrect for the saw. Speaking of oil holes, make sure they are clear in the bar. Another indicator of if your oiler is working properly is the oil tank and the fuel tank should empty about the same time. When you changed the bar did you change the chain? If the drive teeth on the chain where worn it would just destroy the bar again. I would like to see a pick of the bar and the chain if you could.


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## LemonadeJay (Mar 2, 2014)

I replaced the chain and the bar together. I bought the Husky bar instead of the Oregon replacement because I wanted to make sure it was the right one. I will test it without the bar. Thanks.


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 2, 2014)

LemonadeJay said:


> I replaced the chain and the bar together. I bought the Husky bar instead of the Oregon replacement because I wanted to make sure it was the right one. I will test it without the bar. Thanks.


Does your oil tank empty at the same rate as the fuel tank?


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## LemonadeJay (Mar 2, 2014)

It was but i noticed it was a little behind the last couple of fill ups.


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## Kevin (Mar 2, 2014)

Not to hijack but my 346 is oiling just sitting there. It's just needing a cleaning right?


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 2, 2014)

This is just a little info to all that may read this and run chainsaws. A bar should last a long long time if the oiler is working properly and the chain drive teeth are not damaged. You should be able to wear out and use up many chains before you wear the bar out. I usually wear a saw out before I need to change the bar. Most of the time when a bar has a major issue like the sprocket binding or blueing of the bar there is usually something that causes that. You need to repair the underlying problem before you slap a new bar on or you will just destroy that one too. It's not usually a bar that failed but something else like a lack of oil or damaged chain drive teeth from a thrown chain that was reinstalled without checking the drive teeth. The oil holes in the bar can become plugged with wood chips and saw dust as well, but this is a simple fix, just blow it out or pick it out. cheap bar oil or running a saw in extreme cold with a thick oil can also cause problems. In the winter I still run a good brand of oil but sometimes cut it with a little diesel fuel to increase the flow. Bars and chains need a good supply of oil for long life. It is good that Jay has opened up this topic for consideration.

Reactions: Great Post 1


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 2, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Not to hijack but my 346 is oiling just sitting there. It's just needing a cleaning right?


Yup that's just a plugged vent. As long as the bar and chain is getting a good supply of oil while it is running I really wouldn't worry about it. I have a saw that does that so bad that I just put a cookie sheet under it to catch the oil because I don't want to tear it down just for that issue. But it still pumps oil like crazy when she's running so I don't mess with it. In the repair shop, other than a saw not starting, leaking oil is the number one complaint, Not counting the gee I have never sharpened the chain so I don't understand why it won't cut? LOL

Reactions: Funny 2


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## LemonadeJay (Mar 2, 2014)

Thanks for the info. So I got the sprocket at the end of the bar moving (I wasn't sure how easy they are supposed to move) then put the saw back together and started it. The engine sounded fine but the chain speed was horrible and no oil onto the box. Then there was smoke and the smell of oil burning. I think the oil must not be reaching the bar (the underlying problem maybe). This has happened with two bars so the problem is probably before the bar being clogged.

Thanks!


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