# My Method - Pot Calls



## JR Custom Calls (Sep 12, 2014)

Everyone has their own way of doing things. This is the way I have adopted. I had a few orders come in last night, so I figured I'd spend a minute or two extra taking some pics along the way. 

Crosscut hedge seems to have piqued the interest of several customers. Normally, burnt hedge is a favorite... and even though a few extra steps, a bit easier. 

When I'm doing a batch of calls, I do each process for all of the calls before moving on to the next step. Saves time and keeps me in the groove. Total time per call is about 5-10 minutes.

I start with a 1x4x4

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1374_zps1caf7e90.jpg

I draw a line from corner to corner and drill a 3/4" hole

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1375_zpsd12753b2.jpg

I chuck the blank and use the corner of my square cutter to scribe a line as it spins to form a circle (while the lathe is on)

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1376_zps4196b7b1.jpg

I follow the line as best I can on the bandsaw, making it *almost* round

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1377_zps2107578d.jpg

Reactions: Like 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Sep 12, 2014)

I chuck it back up, and true up the blank on the face. Then I use a pen or pencil and mark around a 3.5" glass, centering it as best I can by eye. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1378_zpsa312438d.jpg

I begin removing wood inside the line, estimating approximately how far down to go to get the glass level with the pot. It doesn't have to be perfect, as it's simple to go back and remove more, or since the blank is still close to an inch, remove a little from the edge. Once it fits properly, I trace a 3" glass inside of that, and start removing wood. Eventually, I need to get down to where I can stick two pieces of 3" glass in and it be about flush with the bottom of the ledge I just created for the 3.5" surface. 

Once I get the soundboard height right, I start removing more wood, this time leaving about a 1/4" pedestal for the soundboard to rest on. I go down 3/8" (eyeballing by the size of my square cutter), from the pedestal over to the side of the pot. 


http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1379_zps92efcc6f.jpg

Once the inside of the pot is done, I use a template that I printed off, then customized a bit, to punch a mark with a nail where I'm going to drill my sound holes. 

Using a 5/16" forstner bit, I drill the sound holes. On plain sawn wood, there's usually a bit of tear out inside.. that's no problem, just clean it up with a razor blade afterwards. On crosscut, it usually just plows right through and leaves a clean hole. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1381_zps57e5afa2.jpg

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1382_zpsd415928c.jpg

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## JR Custom Calls (Sep 12, 2014)

Now I chuck the blank up with the bottom out, get it round, and set my height. Again, I do this by eye, based on the distance to the jaws. 

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1384_zpsfbf22bc3.jpg

Once my height is set, I begin shaping the call

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1385_zps653536a0.jpg

Once it's shaped, I hit it real quick with some 320 grit, then buff with steel wool

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1386_zpse8558228.jpg

On the crosscut, the holes get a little messy while turning. I just go back to the drill press and clean up the holes

Now we're ready for sanding the holes, a finish (tru oil), and to glue up the sound board and playing surface

http://i1024.Rule #2/albums/y306/jrcustomcalls/IMG_1387_zpsd1cabebe.jpg


I hope this helps someone who's wanting to get in to turning pots, or looking for a new way to try it. Some may think that I'm being lazy by not measuring... but the way I see it, I sell *Custom* calls, and every one of mine is unique from the next... but sound equally as good.

Reactions: Like 7 | Thank You! 2 | Great Post 2 | Way Cool 3 | Informative 3 | Creative 1


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## Wildthings (Sep 12, 2014)

Very Nice write up - Thanks for sharing it!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## ironman123 (Sep 13, 2014)

Thanks for sharing Jonathan.


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## NYWoodturner (Sep 13, 2014)

Jonathan - excellent series. If you have them and don't mind post all the way through the finish. As a collective bunch I find that call makers are probably he best lot of finishers out there.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## elijahhenry10 (Sep 13, 2014)

Awesome write up. I wonder what burnt crosscut hedge would look like. If possible at least.


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## NYWoodturner (Sep 13, 2014)

By the way - This needs to be in the classroom so its easier to find.  



Well Helloooo! We are here !

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## JR Custom Calls (Sep 13, 2014)

NYWoodturner said:


> Jonathan - excellent series. If you have them and don't mind post all the way through the finish. As a collective bunch I find that call makers are probably he best lot of finishers out there.



I'm not the best finisher by any means... I'd say that's my biggest weakness. But I'll add in a few pics of the tru oil finish.



elijahhenry10 said:


> Awesome write up. I wonder what burnt crosscut hedge would look like. If possible at least.



Ask and ye shall recieve. I'll give it a go tomorrow if I can get out in the shop.

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## JR Custom Calls (Sep 14, 2014)

@elijahhenry10 didn't turn out as I expected. Lots of checking, which I was sort of expecting. That said, I'm curious about the long term effects of this shallow checking because I think it looks really cool... Kind of that weathered, rustic look.

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## Kevin (Sep 14, 2014)

Great tutorial Jonathan. Show how you sanded those holes. It's a pet peeve of mine to see new call makers not bother to do it, and surprisingly I see some experienced call makers ignore them. That's like leaving pencil or scribe lines on the corner of a dovetailed piece - just crawls all over me.

How did you center your glass template over the call? Do you use a pencil while it spinning to scribe a couple of circels and just center the glass over the one you guesstimated closest to 3.5"?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Sep 14, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Great tutorial Jonathan. Show how you sanded those holes. It's a pet peeve of mine to see new call makers not bother to do it, and surprisingly I see some experienced call makers ignore them. That's like leaving pencil or scribe lines on the corner of a dovetailed piece - just crawls all over me.
> 
> How did you center your glass template over the call? Do you use a pencil while it spinning to scribe a couple of circels and just center the glass over the one you guesstimated closest to 3.5"?


 
You're the reason I pay attention to holes... Haha. All I do is go back and run the bit through them again once I get done turning. The forstner bit leaves a smooth surface inside. I use a q-tip to apply finish inside them. I do just was up some 320 and sand the edges of the big hole.

As far as centering the glass, I just hold it up to the blank and eyeball it, then trace it. As I'm turning, I get close to the line, stop and check fitment, then keep going. Since there needs to be a slight gap around the edge, it doesn't have to be exact... Just needs to fit loosely. I know it's not the most precise way, but I can't justify taking the time to use calipers or any of that stuff for something that doesn't have to be consistent within .001"

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## elijahhenry10 (Sep 15, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> @elijahhenry10 didn't turn out as I expected. Lots of checking, which I was sort of expecting. That said, I'm curious about the long term effects of this shallow checking because I think it looks really cool... Kind of that weathered, rustic look.
> 
> View attachment 59629


It does give it a neat look. I wonder if a CA finish would help hold it together. It'd be worth a shot at least I think. Either way it looks good.


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## justallan (Oct 9, 2014)

Great job, Jonathan. These tutorials give me ideas on things to do during the boring winter months.


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## eaglea1 (Oct 9, 2014)

Very good job on the pot, as well as the tutorial. Have you ever given "Call-Coat" a try? I like it for a finish
as well as Velvit oil. The holes I usually just run a dremel barrel sander thru gently, seems to work well.


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## JR Custom Calls (Oct 10, 2014)

eaglea1 said:


> Have you ever given "Call-Coat" a try


I haven't... But I have read up a bit on it. I have been thinking about it more and more lately, as I've been expirementing with some new finishes. Looks like it gives a pretty decent shine, I just wonder how big of a pain it is to use.


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## Johnturner (Oct 10, 2014)

Great thread - I don't know if I am the only one but a few pics of how it is used would be helpful. Until I joined I had never heard of a pot call. 
How does it work? I assume it is for calling to something to get closer to you?
As you can see I am not much of a woodsman, although I have spent time under canvas with the Boy Scouts as a youth and leader.
Thanks
John


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## JR Custom Calls (Oct 10, 2014)

Johnturner said:


> Great thread - I don't know if I am the only one but a few pics of how it is used would be helpful. Until I joined I had never heard of a pot call.
> How does it work? I assume it is for calling to something to get closer to you?
> As you can see I am not much of a woodsman, although I have spent time under canvas with the Boy Scouts as a youth and leader.
> Thanks
> John


I'll see if I can get a video this weekend. For the time being, here's one I found on youtube.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Johnturner (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks Jonathan - That was interesting and helpful.


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## JR Custom Calls (Oct 14, 2014)

I decided to make a quick video as I was making a few tonight. The part where I cut the corners and round it off got left out, as my phone fell off my makeshift tripod (aka, it was sitting on a shelf with a call blank holding it up and fell off halfway through). So, I figured I'd upload the more important one. This is the making of the inside and the final dimensions of the outside. I've still got to drill the sound holes and do a quick buff with steel wool before putting a finish on it, but it should give a better visual of how I go about doing it. As you can see, it takes just a few minutes, and that was with me fumbling around because I knew I'd post this on here. 

Don't get me wrong with this tutorial, this is not something you can just expect to perfect on your first one. It has taken me quite a while to get to the point where I can get pretty much dead on without going back and measuring everything. Oh, and shoutout to @woodtickgreg , the square cutter in the video came from him. These carbide tools are the bomb.

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 2


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## djg (Oct 15, 2014)

First I want to say thanks for the tutorial. But as usual, I'm a little confused (B*old* *Faced Quote*). I use slate calls but am unfamiliar with the glass calls like yours. I would like to try and make one before the Spring season.
"
I begin removing wood inside the line, estimating approximately how far down to go to get the glass level with the pot. It doesn't have to be perfect, as it's simple to go back and remove more, or since the blank is still close to an inch, remove a little from the edge. Once it fits properly, I trace a 3" glass inside of that, and start removing wood. Eventually, I need to get down to where I can *stick two pieces of 3" glass* in and it be about flush with the bottom of the ledge I just created for the 3.5" surface.
Once I get the soundboard height right, I start removing more wood, this time *leaving about a 1/4" pedestal *for the soundboard to rest on. * I go down 3/8"* (eyeballing by the size of my square cutter), from the pedestal over to the side of the pot."

1) How many pieces of glass do you have in a call?? The first (outer) is 3.5" dia. and sets flush with the face of the call??
2) Two pieces of 3" dia. sets on the pedestal only and does not have a ledge or recess to rest on?? I don't see a ledge for them set on.
3) The pedestal is only 1/4" high and then you turn away another 1/8" to make it 3/8" high??
4) If you can make sense of my drawing can you give me the dimensions A, B and C??


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## JR Custom Calls (Oct 15, 2014)

That doesn't make much sense looking at it now. Perhaps if you watch the video, you can see more about what I'm talking about. 

So there are 2 pieces of glass on these calls... a 3.5" piece which is what you run the striker on, then a 3" piece underneath it that vibrates to create the sound. The 3" piece rests on the center pedestal. 

In the video, you can see at 2:16 that I test fit the 3.5" glass in the recessed area. I make it sit flush with the top of the pot. If you sand, you should compensate for that and recess the glass just a bit so it sits flush when you sand.

At 2:20, I test fit the 3" soundboard. Now, because I've done this so many times, I know where I want it to be... but this is where the two pieces comes in to play. The best starting point is to be able to stack two 3" pieces on that pedestal, and the top piece fit flush with the recess for the 3.5" piece. Additionally, there should be enough room to stick toothpicks all around the 3" piece. Some people have a bigger gap between the soundboard and pot, but that's another thing you can play with. 

The pedestal is somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/4" thick... that's the part that is sticking up around the center hole that is mounted on the chuck. This is what you glue the soundboard to. 

Hopefully that helped? I'm in bedtime mode, so my brain isn't functioning perfect right now (not that it ever does, really).


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## djg (Oct 15, 2014)

Hey, thanks for the in depth answer. I didn't expect it. I ask a lot of questions on other forums and people get tired of answering them. I'll try not to do that here. Since I've got you directly, I've got just a few more questions..see what kind of can you've opened up?
1) The two plates of glass are roughly separated by a thickness of glass??
2) What do you glue the glass in with?? I'm new to call making.
3) Does the density of the wood effect the tone, crispness or sharpness of the call?? I see FBE to Osage being used.
4) Where do you get the glass plates??

That's it, no more questions...Thanks again.


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## woodtickgreg (Oct 15, 2014)

Very cool Jonathan, the tick likes to see his tools being used too!

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Oct 15, 2014)

djg said:


> Hey, thanks for the in depth answer. I didn't expect it. I ask a lot of questions on other forums and people get tired of answering them. I'll try not to do that here. Since I've got you directly, I've got just a few more questions..see what kind of can you've opened up?
> 1) The two plates of glass are roughly separated by a thickness of glass??
> 2) What do you glue the glass in with?? I'm new to call making.
> 3) Does the density of the wood effect the tone, crispness or sharpness of the call?? I see FBE to Osage being used.
> ...



1- Yep, that's an easy way to put it

2- goop. The plumbing variety. It's like $4 at lowes in the glue isle

3- it does, indeed. Soft woods like FBE get stabilized before I turn them. Hedge is a fantastic sounding wood. Definitely the more dense, the more crisp (and loud) it will be

4- I usually get them at brooksidegamecalls.com. Crystal, glass, aluminum, copper, ceramic... I use them all. Don't care much for slate.


You'll find people here to be very helpful. Some callmakers want to be secretive about stuff... I like to share info. Feel free to ask all you want.

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## Wildthings (Oct 15, 2014)

1- Yep, what he said
2- goop. Yep, what he said
3- it does, indeed. Yep, what he said
4- I usually get them at brooksidegamecalls.com. Yep, what he said

Anything else I can add?

Reactions: Like 2 | Funny 4


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## ripjack13 (Oct 15, 2014)

I was just thinking....on the plexi pattern, would it be helpful to mark the center of it and glue/screw a nub of dowel there, so it fits in your center hole in the call. That would eliminate the guess work of eyeballin it?

If not, no prob....just me lookin in. :)


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## ripjack13 (Mar 9, 2015)

I have another question...is the sound holes spacing supposed to be in some sort of set pattern or spacing? And does the centr hole need to a certain size ?


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## Wildthings (Mar 9, 2015)

No and no - look at myling's patterns - random


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 10, 2015)

ripjack13 said:


> I was just thinking....on the plexi pattern, would it be helpful to mark the center of it and glue/screw a nub of dowel there, so it fits in your center hole in the call. That would eliminate the guess work of eyeballin it?
> 
> If not, no prob....just me lookin in. :)



I've considered that. Wouldn't be hard, just need to turn a really short dowel and epoxy it on. In fact, I was just thinking the other day that I should do that. Would save me 30 seconds or so per call, which isn't much, but would guarantee perfect center every time.  



ripjack13 said:


> I have another question...is the sound holes spacing supposed to be in some sort of set pattern or spacing? And does the centr hole need to a certain size ?



No, but there is some science to it. The reason my center hole is 3/4 is because that's what fits my chuck... and it works for me. I know some guys that swear up and down a center hole deadens their calls. I've tried several different designs, but I always come back to this one, because it sounds the best. I did make a jig for my sound holes that really helped me out. Up until recently, I used a paper template... I had to mark my holes, then put it back on the lathe and mark a circle with a pencil to get them lined up. I finally took a 1/2" piece of wood and turned it round, put a dowel in the middle, and drilled my 6 holes just big enough for a roofing nail to fit. So, I just sit the jig on the pot once it's turned, tap each of the 6 nails to put a mark, then drill them out. Perfectly centered and spaced every time.

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## ripjack13 (Mar 10, 2015)

Thanks for the answers!!


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 14, 2015)

Here's the hole jig, @ripjack13

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## ripjack13 (Mar 14, 2015)

I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw.....


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