# Restoring an old Stanley No. 5



## cabomhn (Jun 14, 2013)

Well, I had bought an old stanley a while back while I was at school and this is the first time I've had free to actually start working on it and doing the restoration. So here it is...

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It's not in the best of shape, there is a significant amount of rust on most of the parts and the rear handle is snapped in half. I am still deciding on whether or not to try to repair the handle with epoxy or just make a new on from the extra cocobolo that I have here. I'll save that part for later so I have a little more time to think about what I am going to do. 

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All taken apart, my first section to attack was the all of the different nuts and threaded rods. I took out the dremmel with the metal brush attachment and got to work. I went pretty light on them to not create scratches but it did a pretty nice job getting rid of most of the rust. 

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Now, for the main body. There is no way I'm spending a lot of time try to strip this thing by hand, it has a ton of rust on it. Time for electrolysis. Just a disclaimer, never do this indoors, keep the positive lead of your battery charger out of the water, and make sure the scrap steel and the main piece you are stripping never touch or your battery charger might catch on fire. Ok, so I have the plane bed, I've used hot water and baking soda as the wash liquid to saturate the water creating an electrolyte medium for the charge to travel through. This will probably have to sit for a full 24 hours to get it stripped to the level I want it to be.

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Keep an eye on the charger periodically, the amperage shouldn't be up super high, if it does start raising up it's best to turn it off and add more space between your scrap metal and your main piece to keep your charger at a lower level since you'll be using it for a long period of time. Here's a picture after about 2 hours, you can see some of the water is clouding a copper color and that the electrolysis is starting to work, now all that's needed is some more time. 

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Next thing I did was I took the polishing attachment on the dremel and with mother's polish I started giving that shine to the different metal components. The brass pieces were scraped and polished to a fine sheen but the steel components were left with a decent amount of patina left on them. The big thing in this project is that I didn't want the plane to look brand new to keep some of the age with it after restoration. 

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Here is the first part of the project where I have to start creating some "jerry-rigged" contraptions to get the work done. Normally it would be easiest to pop the front handle on a drill press to sand it down but I don't own one so I used a couple clamps to hold it in place while is worked up to 2000 grit. I didn't sand all of the way past the scratches but just resurfaced the bulk of the handle so it feels nice, but still has the look that it's been used in the past. 

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That's the last little bit for today. I might work on it a little more tonight once I get back from work around 11:30 but that's where I am at now. I'm looking forward to start working on the steel components and redoing the japaning on the various parts.


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## Kevin (Jun 14, 2013)

Cool Matt. I tried cleaning my cymbals once using a vat and battery charger but I never could get it to work. I think because cymbals are mostly bronze and brass alloy with other trace metals and I didn't have the right solution either probably. 

Gonna be a cool thread look forward to watching.


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## cabomhn (Jun 14, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Cool Matt. I tried cleaning my cymbals once using a vat and battery charger but I never could get it to work. I think because cymbals are mostly bronze and brass alloy with other trace metals and I didn't have the right solution either probably.
> 
> Gonna be a cool thread look forward to watching.



Yeah Kevin I'm fairly certain this process is only really effective when you are working with a cast iron type material. I could be wrong but I think that's what I read somewhere on the internet, who knows if it's true or not! 

Oh I forgot to mention this, for your scrap metal don't use a stainless steel! Bad things will happen, it has to be a piece of scrap raw steel, no stainless!


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## Mike1950 (Jun 14, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Cool Matt. I tried cleaning my cymbals once using a vat and battery charger but I never could get it to work. I think because cymbals are mostly bronze and brass alloy with other trace metals and I didn't have the right solution either probably.
> 
> Gonna be a cool thread look forward to watching.



Bronze and brass clean up really nice with ammonia - at least that is what I use on my lights.


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## Kevin (Jun 14, 2013)

For cymbals I finally found a cleaner that works far better than anything else I had tried over the years and I'd tried everything (including ammonia). Cymbals seem to present their own special challenge when it comes to cleaning. 

Matt what did you mean about not using SS for scrap?


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## Brink (Jun 14, 2013)

I'm watching this one closely. Always like seeing the old stuff getting restored.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 14, 2013)

Kevin, he is talking about the metal that is used for the electrode with the positive terminal. Great job Matt, electrolysis is the way to go for really rusty parts, me I get impatient and just wire wheel the crap out of everything, LOL. I have done a couple of planes like that when I can find them, just make a new tote or handle. I like to use a cool looking hard wood. I'll be watching with the other guys!


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## cabomhn (Jun 14, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> Kevin, he is talking about the metal that is used for the electrode with the positive terminal. Great job Matt, electrolysis is the way to go for really rusty parts, me I get impatient and just wire wheel the crap out of everything, LOL. I have done a couple of planes like that when I can find them, just make a new tote or handle. I like to use a cool looking hard wood. I'll be watching with the other guys!



Yeah Greg got what I meant! Just the junk metal that all of the rust attaches itself to. 

I will probably still do some wire scraping after I get it up to remove all of the japanning, I can definitely appreciate the impatience though, I just got back for work and I think it's about time to remove the plane bed! Hopefully some more pictures at some point tomorrow. Thanks for watching guys.


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## Kevin (Jun 15, 2013)

Maybe that's why it didn't work for me I just used a smaller 8" splash cymbal. :i_dunno:


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## cabomhn (Jun 15, 2013)

Alright so some good news, the electrolysis worked really well. Last night I took out the plane bed and did a preliminary scrub down. All of the rust on the outside was removed and about 70% of the paint came off very easily. In order to prevent flash rusting I took it out of the electrolysis bin and took it to the sink to rinse, then dumped it into a small vat of oil to let it soak in. I did some scrubbing and then put it back in for another round of electrolysis over night. 

After a little jetski time with my dad, got the plane bed out today and it's just about 100% clean. I need to buy a few more wire brush bits for the dremel to get the last few small crevices cleaned but other than that it's in pretty good shape now! I put the blade into the electrolysis and then tonight once I get back I plan on finishing cleaning of the plane bed and getting it taped off for painting. More updates coming probably some time tomorrow! 

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## cabomhn (Jun 15, 2013)

Oh, just so you guys know, I looked up the actual reason why you aren't supposed to use stainless steel just because it was bugging me that I couldn't remember. The reason is when you pass a current through the stainless steel in an aqueous solution it produces hexavalent chromate, which when airborne is a human carcinogen. I knew there was a reason that was important!


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## cabomhn (Jun 15, 2013)

Alright last update for tonight. I was able to get the rest of the plane bed completely cleaned and got the body tape in preparation for painting. Honestly this took forever to tape up but it is worth it in the long run I think to get those nice clean lines on the plane body, as well as create a good contact point for the frog free of paint. . The paint will be done in an engine enamel black paint but that will be saved for another day. :i_dunno:

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## cabomhn (Jun 16, 2013)

Well I got a little more work done this morning and tonight after work. This morning I got the plane bed painted. I went to Advance Auto and bought two cans of 500 degree dupli-color engine enamel paint, gloss and semi-gloss. After cleaning the plane surface with alcohol and letting it sit, I sprayed on a light coat of semi-gloss paint and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then 3 coats of gloss paint, fairly heavy. Between each of these coats I let them sit around 20 minutes, not letting them set. Finally I put in a coat of the semi-gloss, very thick. The paint at this point was flowing heavy as you are spraying since there is such a thick layer of paint. Then just let it sit for at least 3 hours. 

It came out pretty well for the most part, around the edges of the paint there is some filing need to smooth it out and then the frog needs to be cleaned up but I'm happy with how the paint looks for now. Tomorrow I'm hoping to have a couple more of the parts done with. Maybe this project will get done sometime this weekend, well see. 

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## woodtickgreg (Jun 16, 2013)

It's already nicer than it was the day it was made.


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## cabomhn (Jun 17, 2013)

Well, I was looking through some old photos of original factory stanley planes and I realized that they were not painted on the top of the ridge on either side of the plane, neither were they on the very front or the very back. Well, I thought I was going to let it go but my OCD took over and I tried to remove the paint using a file. Well that was a huge mistake and it started taking out some small chips. I had only done like 2" of one side but once I saw those chips I knew that I couldn't leave those there or it would drive me nuts until I knew it was fixed. (I know I'm crazy, but things like that bother me until I do something about it  ). Anyway, the results of this little mishap was that I completely re-stripped all of the paint again and re-masked the plane and repainted. This ended up being for the better because I found some spare razor blades which made the paint lines crisper and I refined the painting process and I like the finish more as well. It took a good bit of time but I think it was generally worth it in the end. It put me back a day in the process but I'm pretty confident I won't regret going back and fixing my mistake.

I bought another stanley today, a no. 4 type 9? I think it's a type 9 but I need to have it in hand to be sure. Got it for a cheap price on ebay so that'll be another restore later this summer. Another day, a little work, I'll call it a success.


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## Brink (Jun 18, 2013)

Matt, I checked my planes, they were all japaned on the edges. All on the edge of the heel, half were japaned on the edge of the toe.


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## cabomhn (Jun 18, 2013)

Brink said:


> Matt, I checked my planes, they were all japaned on the edges. All on the edge of the heel, half were japaned on the edge of the toe.



Hmm, maybe the ones I were seeing weren't in original condition but had been worked on by someone who had painted them differently. I think I'll leave it for now unless the itch hits me again. :lolol:


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 18, 2013)

cabomhn said:


> Brink said:
> 
> 
> > Matt, I checked my planes, they were all japaned on the edges. All on the edge of the heel, half were japaned on the edge of the toe.
> ...


I think you need to consider 2 things here......1 is to have fun.....2 is to be able to use it when you are done.....It should be used and not just a museum piece.  In other words, don't beat yourself up over the details and trying to be so authentic, make it nice and enjoy using it.


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## Kevin (Jun 18, 2013)

Maybe in order to enjoy it the way he wants, he needs it to be authentic. Nothing wrong with that either.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 18, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Maybe in order to enjoy it the way he wants, he needs it to be authentic. Nothing wrong with that either.


Your right, just didn't want to see him stressing over it when he was doing such good work anyways. JMO.


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## cabomhn (Jun 18, 2013)

Thanks guys, I wasn't really THAT stressed about it, but when I know I made a mistake, (or i guess it wasn't a mistake after all, :rofl2: ) I like to fix it if I can, even if it can be a pain. Thanks for the comments guys!


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## Kevin (Jun 18, 2013)

Well, I just know I'm not going to be happy with my '59 300SL gull wing unless the restoration is showroom immaculate, and I've been fretting about it for years. 
















I guess I shouldn't worry too much though, since I'll never be able to actually own one.


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## cabomhn (Jun 19, 2013)

Ok a little more work done today. 

I took the frog out of the electrolysis bath today and gave it a good scrubbing. It came out really well and everything came off cleanly. 
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Cleaned up the blade with a scotch brite pad, good enough for now, I'll finish that up another time but the majority of the grime is gone. 
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I took a file and flattened the seat for the frog on the plane bed 
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Then I took a file and cleaned up the spot on the frog, got it nice and flat, ready to be taped and painted. 
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I just put the first few coats on and it's looking pretty good. About to go take off the painters tape and let it sit the rest of the night. I'll probably start putting it back together sometime tomorrow.


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## cabomhn (Jun 19, 2013)

Starting to come together now! So far I'm very satisfied with how it's coming along. The lever cap is in the electrolysis bath now but since some of the metal plating is coming off I'm not sure how I'm going to work around that. I could definitely use some input from you guys, do they make a spraypaint type can of "chrome finish"? I'll post a picture a little later to explain what I'm talking about. Well here's a few pics as it's coming together. 

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## woodtickgreg (Jun 19, 2013)

No spray chrome that I am aware of. If its really flaking off you could sandblast it to rough it up and then just paint it the same color as the rest. I have seen a few done like that and they look good. And if there is lettering on the cap you could hand paint that a different color to hi lite it. :dunno: The other option is to disassemble the lever that locks it down and have it re chromed.


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## cabomhn (Jun 19, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> No spray chrome that I am aware of. If its really flaking off you could sandblast it to rough it up and then just paint it the same color as the rest. I have seen a few done like that and they look good. And if there is lettering on the cap you could hand paint that a different color to hi lite it. :dunno: The other option is to disassemble the lever that locks it down and have it re chromed.



I figured that there wouldn't be a way to do that without getting it chromed. I live near a ton of auto restoration shops so I imagine I get get something chromed through them for a reasonable price, maybe I'll wait to see if the next plane I'm getting in has the same issue for it to be worth it to me or not. Thanks for the hand painting advice, I think that'll be the approach that I will take


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## cabomhn (Jun 20, 2013)

cabomhn said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> > No spray chrome that I am aware of. If its really flaking off you could sandblast it to rough it up and then just paint it the same color as the rest. I have seen a few done like that and they look good. And if there is lettering on the cap you could hand paint that a different color to hi lite it. :dunno: The other option is to disassemble the lever that locks it down and have it re chromed.
> ...



Who'da thunk, I guess they do sell spray paint chrome finish...

Advance Auto Link

Oh yeah, only problem is they want THIRTY EIGHT DOLLARS!!!!! Haha I think I'll pass but it's pretty cool they do sell a somewhat legitimate chrome style finish out of a can. :morning2:


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 20, 2013)

cabomhn said:


> cabomhn said:
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> > woodtickgreg said:
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I'm guessing you could probably get real chrome for around that. :dunno: Funny though.


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## cabomhn (Jun 20, 2013)

woodtickgreg said:


> cabomhn said:
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> > cabomhn said:
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That's exactly what I was thinking, I guess it's worth it to someone though or else they wouldn't sell it but still, seems like a stretch. :sad:


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 20, 2013)

cabomhn said:


> woodtickgreg said:
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> > cabomhn said:
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It might be a cool thing for non metallic parts like plastic and such.


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## Mike1950 (Jun 20, 2013)

you could chrome the cocobolo.:rotflmao3::rotflmao3::rotflmao3::dash2::dash2: I know go back to the shop!!!!


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