# On This Week's Show 2022



## Kenbo

Well it's another year and another year of the YouTube channel. I truly enjoy producing the show and have had a lot of fun with it over the years. I hope you guys enjoy this season as much as I enjoy bringing it to you. Thanks for tuning in.

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## ripjack13

The wagon. I remember askin you aboot that. Very cool.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Karl_TN

The inlaid dovetails video is one of my favorite. You made it seem easy enough that now I want to locate a used dovetail jig at an estate sale. Thanks.

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## 2feathers Creative Making

I have passed on several jigs. Prolly grab one in the near future. That is simple enough for a farmer to follow and I was raised on a farm...

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


>


Ken, hind sight is often 20/20. 

Instead of trying to lift the washers to insert the stick, you just needed to turn it over and with a gentle shake, let gravity move the washers down against the screw heads to insert the sticks. Figuring out the the centering of 'keys' was also a bit over the top. If you start with a longer board, very easy to simply use a table-saw, radial arm saw or many others to cut the ends off for centering. Having the longer ends during construction reduces the percentage of possible splitting when driving in the screws as well.

When marking out where the screws go, I'd think using a set of dividers would speed things up. I'd use them for one line and the square to mark off of them for the other. Dividers create a small pilot hole as well.

Board widths, double edge sword here. Having the sticks, stick out the back increases the likely hood of them being broken. Cutting the sticks to not exceed the board alters vibration and changes pitch / frequency. Using a wider board will protect the back end of the sticks, increases weight, but more importantly, the lifespan of the unit with most children. As for the base board ends, I'd leave them longer, maybe as much as 6 inches on each end. This gives plenty of space to make a hanging hole for storage and grips or a handle to hold on while in use. Better allows 2 persons to interact, 1 holding and the other having the use of 2 hands to 'play'.

I realize there are many, many more possibilities. Great job Ken.




Dreamstime photo

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## 2feathers Creative Making

When I posted that fire barrel video, I watched the opening part of this on YouTube. Was hoping you were posting the series here. Thanks for the effort.

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## Kenbo




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## DLJeffs

Very well done video. I especially like the way you describe detail sequencing and optional methods for making the parts.

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## Gdurfey

@Kenbo , Ken, please don't think I have turned you off by not liking your videos on Woodbarter. I have just started catching you on YouTube directly along with a few other subscriptions. Love all of this and they are so inspirational!!!! Keep up the good work and thanks for the time to share these directly here!!!

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


>


Had a thought about the "Learning Tower"... I guess one could make it without the back bar and it would work for those vertically challenged as well. We have a family friend that has tumbled more than once because the little plastic stool was not a big enough platform at the time.

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## Kenbo

Mr. Peet said:


> Had a thought about the "Learning Tower"... I guess one could make it without the back bar and it would work for those vertically challenged as well. We have a family friend that has tumbled more than once because the little plastic stool was not a big enough platform at the time.


I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work for that. It couldn't hurt, that's for sure.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


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So...seeing you in a hood and the fan spinning on the stove, I have to assume you are still having some cold mornings. You get any frost in June?


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## Kenbo

Mr. Peet said:


> So...seeing you in a hood and the fan spinning on the stove, I have to assume you are still having some cold mornings. You get any frost in June?


No. In fact it's been hot and humid lately with the temperatures around 32 degrees C and higher. The show is pre-recorded so this show would have been filmed somewhere around February or March. If we were having frost in June..........I'd be moving.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## ripjack13

Kenbo said:


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Very cool Ken. Nicely done.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## 2feathers Creative Making

Kenbo said:


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Kenbo said:


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We would never guess there were children around if you didn't tell us, Kenny  . Great job keeping at least this part family oriented.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Looks like you had a great time. It there still an indoor mask mandate there?


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## Kenbo

Mr. Peet said:


> Looks like you had a great time. It there still an indoor mask mandate there?


No. That mandate has ended but at the time of filming this show, the mandate was still in place.

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## Mike Hill

Lil Mikey does not like aquariums - He hasn't found one that would let him fish the tanks!

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## Gdurfey

Mike Hill said:


> Lil Mikey does not like aquariums - He hasn't found one that would let him fish the tanks!


Same thing with Bass Pro Shops.....I said I wanted to try one of the new fly rods............

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo




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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


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Enjoyed your video on the candy dispenser. I have made a few dozen of them as well. Your's has a lot more steps and parts than the ones I usually did. Couple thoughts for you: 

The pull knob will not last with bigger "kids" if a peanut M&M jams. The end grain joint often fails. Easy way to avoid this is to make your slide a bit longer and either scroll saw a grip or use a forstner bit and the belt sander to form one. 

What are your slide stops? A 1/4" dowel stub works well as a stop. Otherwise if the slide is pulled all the way out the unit becomes and open hour glass. I've had requests to make the slide even longer so they can push with one hand and pull with the other. I've also embedded a screw in a dowel so the Phillips head was flush with the dowel and the thread stuck out a 1/2", so the stop could be removed to better clean the dispenser.

Friction fit jar. If this unit gets used, that friction fit wears out quickly. Fasten the jar ring to the dispenser so the loaded jar fastens to the dispenser. This will minimize spills. If using a decorative jar, put the ring on the jar and mark center. When placing the ring in the dispenser, go past center about an inch. This allows "wiggle room" for the thickness of your fasteners used to attach ring to dispenser. I use 1" flat head nails. I take the nails down nearly flush and try the jar. If I need to go more to center the jar, I set the nails down further and repeat the process until the jar is centered. If the jar does not snug, without going past center, a dab of hot glue (stick glue) after drying acts as a good cushion and spacer.

Some differences in the ones I often make:
I use scraps as well. The dispenser body is from 4"x4" materials, often Doug-fir, Western red cedar or white cedar. I sand these on the belt sander to clean them up and round the side corners. This avoids the several pieces to glue up. I plow the slide grove in the body on the tablesaw. Using the 4"x4" would reduce the recess front your dispenser has and limit cleaning challenges, but your front does create character. I drill my top ring hole completely through, figuring the item being dispensed has one less obstacle to pass by. The shoot, well mine don't really work as a shoot and being a hand is right there for the reward, not really needed. My shoot is about the same as the slide for stock size. I set the tablesaw blade at 45 degrees and take a small "V" from the center by flipping the piece around. I use the miter saw and cut the shoot about 1.5" long with a 45 on each end. Using the belt sander I round the one end that mounts on the base. I do use glue but also use nails, flat heads on the bottom and button head on the top or other styles to create accent. I use finish nails on the shoot. I think the solid body and minimizing glue joints lowers long term risks to the elements of time and misuse. However, a butcher block style body and black and white body have been in mind, just have to do it.

Below is the one I did for wife's sister, using white cedar body (scrap pile) and figured eastern cottonwood from her firewood pile. When using old jars from 1940's and older, they often have a neck flare that would require some more sanding (top edge of the hole) if your top hole goes through. This one I was lazy and used the band saw to notch the slide. The slide stops are 1/4" dowel and glued in 3/8"ths deep, and protrude 1/4". I have one on both sides on this unit so the slide doesn't come out. She has dogs.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


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You *clearly* like to weld....I'm more of a forge guy. I would have taken the flat stock full length, drilled the mounting holes and then heated the material and bent it into the hanging bracket shape. I would have still painted it for a finished look. However, my shop has moisture swings and paint just works for me. Nice project.

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## Kenbo

Mr. Peet said:


> You *clearly* like to weld....I'm more of a forge guy. I would have taken the flat stock full length, drilled the mounting holes and then heated the material and bent it into the hanging bracket shape. I would have still painted it for a finished look. However, my shop has moisture swings and paint just works for me. Nice project.


It's always interesting how the same project can be made using different methods. I like your forging idea. Thanks for chiming in with that.


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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Nature Man

Kenbo said:


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I totally agree with you! I always choose the human checkout line. My wife will use the self-checkout, but I’ve told her that she has to be the cashier, as I refuse to do the work of the company. It appears that self-checkout is catching on in many places, including McDonald’s where recently we were told they will be eliminating all cashiers in the very near future in a couple of their stores. Chuck

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## DLJeffs

Pretty soon you won't even be allowed in the store. You'll submit your order via phone or computer; a robot will cruise around the store and collect your order; scan it and charge your credit card or direct to your bank account (which you would have been required to register and complete before you would be allowed to shop); and then you'd be notified when to come pick up your order. You'll drive into a drive-through lane, enter your order number, and a different robot will drop it into your truck. The fun will really start when there's something wrong with your order and you have to go back to the store to get it corrected. Sadly, they'll "tell us all these changes" are improvements in speed and efficiency making our shopping experience so much more enjoyable. I already miss the little mom & pop hardware stores I used to take my business to.

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## Gdurfey

A few years ago I was in western Colorado and stopped for a drink at a McDonalds. The person told me to order on their automated screen and I said no. All I wanted was a drink ($1.00) and I wasn't going to use my credit card for a buck!!!!............. she took my order as I was ready to walk out.

I hear you!!! Sadly, I use self-checkout a lot at different places.

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## 2feathers Creative Making

Gdurfey said:


> A few years ago I was in western Colorado and stopped for a drink at a McDonalds. The person told me to order on their automated screen and I said no. All I wanted was a drink ($1.00) and I wasn't going to use my credit card for a buck!!!!............. she took my order as I was ready to walk out.
> 
> I hear you!!! Sadly, I use self-checkout a lot at different places.


I still refuse. I will leave their junk in the store if they don't want my business. I work for a construction company not as a cashier.

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## Mr. Peet

During the plandemic, our Tru-Value had a few days that they claimed to have no cash so all orders had to be credit or debit. Manager told me it took him and 2 others literally days to empty out carts and put stuff back on shelves after being left at the check-out line. This is the same store that refused to serve customers without a mask at one point. After losing several thousand dollars a day and having no profit, they dropped the National policy and let the employee discretion rule action and the store soon was able to pays employees again.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Jonkou

Very cool to see another, made this many years ago out of red oak and is still used regularly. Design was copied from an old timer submarine mech at Pearl Harbor.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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## Mr. Peet

Kenbo said:


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So, with the ornaments, did they have the holly leaf details on the back side as well? Wonder if you had kept the name area solid if that would strengthen the piece and allow the name to be burned on each side versus cut through, allowing the name to be easily read from both sides. 

I liked the lanterns. Did you consider doing one as a combination lantern / shadow box? Such as having the tree silhouette on one side casting light out, and the piece the silhouette was cut from on the opposite side being the shadow box side.... you follow?

Those puzzles would be great gifts to anger in-laws....


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## Kenbo

Mr. Peet said:


> So, with the ornaments, did they have the holly leaf details on the back side as well? Wonder if you had kept the name area solid if that would strengthen the piece and allow the name to be burned on each side versus cut through, allowing the name to be easily read from both sides.
> 
> I liked the lanterns. Did you consider doing one as a combination lantern / shadow box? Such as having the tree silhouette on one side casting light out, and the piece the silhouette was cut from on the opposite side being the shadow box side.... you follow?
> 
> Those puzzles would be great gifts to anger in-laws....


I intend to paint the ornaments but I like your version of it as well. It wouldn't take much to to modify the pattern in Lightburn and change it from a cutout to a solid lower section. Alignment could be an issue if you aren't using absolute coordinates on the laser but that's the only way I engrave anyway so it shouldn't be a problem. I like the shadowbox idea as well and that would give it a completely different look. I may have to put some of your ideas to use. Thanks for the suggestions Mark.

The puzzles would anger anyone. This thing is ridiculously difficult. LOL.

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## Kenbo



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## DLJeffs

Based on my experience in the corporate world, the Outbox was much more important than the Inbox.

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## Kenbo



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## Kenbo



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