# lathe turns slow need help



## Karda (Nov 19, 2017)

I took a piece off the lathe to cut and put it uped the hi speed back on and when I turned the lathe on it barley turned. the motor groans and sometime won’t turn next lower speed the same changed belt back and forth and will work on fourth speed, it is reliable fro third down. I loosened the tail stock to just barely putting pressure on to get to work on fourth won’t work on 5th at all even with no wood whats wrong. I have only had the lathe about 9 months. its an HF midi lathe. any idea whats wrong thanks mike


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## Schroedc (Nov 19, 2017)

Sounds like the motor is losing torque. If it sounds bad, bearings or brushes. Also, remove the belt from the motor and spin the head stock, are those bearings ok?


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2017)

how can I tell, what do the feel like if they are bad, i know nothing about motors. I turned it by hand but with tension on the belt and it seemed ok. i'll try it without the belt tomorrow. Thanks


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## sprucegum (Nov 20, 2017)

If it is a electronic variable speed it could be a problem with the potentiometer. If it is not under warrantee you must have a electrical buddy somewhere have him test the voltage to the motor.


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## David Hill (Nov 20, 2017)

If you bought the extended warranty,just take it back. You'll be out of the 90 day one. Just saying— getting parts from them is tough


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## Karda (Nov 20, 2017)

I don't usually buy warrentys, I should have i guess. don't know people. moved recently


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## rocky1 (Nov 24, 2017)

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/65000-65999/65345.pdf - Mini Lathe

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/34000-34999/34706.pdf - Midi-Lathe




> *I took a piece off the lathe to cut and put it uped the hi speed back on and when I turned the lathe on it barley turned.*


 
Trying to translate here, but... If you shifted gears on the 'midi lathe', with the lathe not running, it's possible you damaged the pulley on the headstock side of the Reeves Drive. That system has to be running when shifted. However, it is possible you simply bound your belt shifting gears like that, and chewed it up. I'd pull the cover on the drive side of the head, and check the belt, (_I kinda suspect it may be chewed up_). Then see if it's running fully up and down in the drive pulleys when you shift gears. If the belt is OK and the pulley's aren't opening and closing fully, you probably have damage to the drive wherein pictures of what's going on in there may help.


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## Karda (Nov 24, 2017)

I change the speeds manually, I am changing the capacitor, thats probably it because everything else checks out. I am still using the lathe just not 2 highest speeds


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## rocky1 (Nov 24, 2017)

Parts list included on the links above for the mini and midi lathe. If it's just a capacitor you may be able to source it locally quicker than Harbor Freight can get it for you.


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## Karda (Nov 24, 2017)

yea I already ordered one off ebay

Reactions: Like 1


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## duncsuss (Nov 24, 2017)

Karda said:


> I change the speeds manually, I am changing the capacitor, thats probably it because everything else checks out. I am still using the lathe just not 2 highest speeds



Just out of curiosity, what is the HarborFreight/Central Machinery model number of your lathe?


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## Karda (Nov 24, 2017)

I have the midi, 10 x 18 " capacity #65345


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## duncsuss (Nov 24, 2017)

Karda said:


> I have the midi, 10 x 18 " capacity #65345



Ah. I suspect your terminology sent @rocky1 off track. 10" x 18" is normally called a mini, not a midi, lathe.

The model #65345 does not have a Reeves drive, and it does not have electronic variable speed. It is purely a belt & pulley 5-speed lathe.

You might find that changing the motor capacitor solves your problem -- if it does, that's great. If it doesn't, it could mean there's a misalignment of some sort -- could be the spindle (bearings maybe) is off-axis, or the bearings are bad, or the spindle is bent. Or it could mean the the motor is not mounted perfectly or the pulley on the motor shaft is out of alignment.


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## Karda (Nov 24, 2017)

ok thanks, 4th has always worked till a few days ago 5th never used so can't say on that


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## duncsuss (Nov 24, 2017)

Karda said:


> ok thanks, 4th has always worked till a few days ago 5th never used so can't say on that



It could be as simple as "too much tension" on the belt -- can cause one or another of the shafts to flex into a position it doesn't like. I think the rule of thumb is that you should be able to deflect the belt about 3/8" just by pressing on it with a finger.


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## rocky1 (Nov 24, 2017)

Link on the mini lathe I believe had instructions on setting belt tension as well.


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## SubVet10 (Nov 24, 2017)

Second for checking the capacitor. Even cheap multimeters will have a capacitance setting. Check your read out against the label plate.


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## rocky1 (Nov 24, 2017)

duncsuss said:


> Ah. I suspect your terminology sent @rocky1 off track. 10" x 18" is normally called a mini, not a midi, lathe.
> 
> The model #65345 does not have a Reeves drive, and it does not have electronic variable speed. It is purely a belt & pulley 5-speed lathe.
> 
> You might find that changing the motor capacitor solves your problem -- if it does, that's great. If it doesn't, it could mean there's a misalignment of some sort -- could be the spindle (bearings maybe) is off-axis, or the bearings are bad, or the spindle is bent. Or it could mean the the motor is not mounted perfectly or the pulley on the motor shaft is out of alignment.




You would be correct Duncun. Although I'd be inclined to agree with Mike in respect to it being a midi in the Harbor Freight line, (_they have the 8 x 12, 10 x 18, and 12 x 33 3/8, so I do understand where he was coming from_), Harbor Freight calls the 12 x 33 a midi for whatever reason. And, the 10 x 18 and 8 x 12 both minis. 

Food for thought... 

If you don't have a digital volt/ohm meter Mike find someone that does before replacing the capacitor. When I bought my Grizzly, previous owner said he suspected problems with the capacitor, said it did strange things occasionally, would not start unless you spun it by hand, and if he spun it backwards when it did that, it would take off and run backwards. When I got it home, it refused to start, flipped the switch a few times, and it took off and worked fine that night. Next time I tried it, it did it again; I broke out the DVOM and started testing at the motor and found improper voltage going to the capacitor, went back to my switch and found improper voltage through the on/off switch, had 124V going into the switch, about 60 coming out. Apparently the switch was about fried, and the contacts would arc until it eventually threw enough voltage at the capacitor for it to take off, and it would run fine for awhile. Replaced the switch, $7 part from Griz, and haven't had a problem since. You could be experiencing similar problems where fried contacts limit the amp flow through the switch.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Karda (Dec 4, 2017)

Hi, got the new capacitor and installed it, no difference. I have to find somebody to test it or take it to its beyond me


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## rocky1 (Dec 4, 2017)

Did you check voltage at the capacitor and make sure you have 110-120 line voltage to the capacitor? 

Is your belt slipping?

Any strange noises when it does this?


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## Karda (Dec 4, 2017)

I changed the capacitor, I don't know if it was bad. I don't have the meter to check it and if I did I wouldn't know how to use it or what the readings mean. I don't think the belt is slipping. I first noticed it a week or so ago when I turned the lathe on and it was slow so I loosened and re tightened the belt. di that a couple times and it worked. No problems for several days the when I set it to 5 never used that speed it won't work at all just make a noise like it wants to start but won't. 1st 3 speeds work fine. I bought the lathe this FEB and I don't use it alot maybe an hour or so a week


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## Karda (Dec 11, 2017)

Hi, I changed capacitors no change I bought a milti meter with a capacitance setting the capacitor is good. I was only able to check the capacitor because I found a utube that told how and what meter to buy and how to use nit. I don't have a clue how to check the motor.


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## Karda (Dec 23, 2017)

sorry I missed this. No I haven't checked at the capacitor, I wouldn't know how. I got a multi meter but using it is a real puzzle


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## rocky1 (Dec 24, 2017)

Not difficult to test Mike, set your meter to AC Voltage, touch one lead to each wire going into the motor/capacitor. One wire should go to the fields on the motor, the other will go to the capacitor.

Should read 110-120 v0lts AC voltage into the motor/capacitor.

110 - 120 Volts AC line voltage is correct up to the motor/capacitor, you have other problems.
If it reads a negative number, you simply have the leads reversed.
Less than 110 volts, you need to start backing up the line looking for voltage drop.

If it doesn't read at least 110 VAC at input on the capacitor/motor, back up to the switch and test for voltage drop across the switch. Check incoming and outgoing side of the switch. You should see the same, 110-120 Volts AC reading, both sides of the switch. If you see any voltage drop across the switch, the contacts in the switch are dirty/burned and you need a new switch. As stated... Mine was a $6 - $7 part, 4 wires to unplug/plug back in, snapped in place; took maybe 2 minutes to change it out. I want to say your machine there are 2 screws holding the switch in. Switch may be available locally at hardware store or local electrician.

If you don't have 110 VAC into the switch, check the outlet at the wall. Simply stick the probes into the outlet, you may have to probe off to the side to find contact. It doesn't always work just sticking them in the hole. If you had power at the switch, you should get a reading there, no reading is unacceptable, keep probing.

If you don't have 110 VAC at output on the the outlet, pull the cover on the wall outlet and test incoming power. You may be able to reach in on the sides and touch the screws on the side of the outlet without removing it from the wall, if have to remove it understand the sides of the outlet ARE LIVE. Probably won't kill you, probably won't even hurt you, but it'll make you hurt yourself if you grab it. Voltage drop across the outlet, you need a new outlet. 

If you encounter voltage drop between the outlet and the switch, or between the switch and the capacitor/motor, your meter is telling you that you have a broken/burned wire.


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## Karda (Dec 24, 2017)

ok I'll try to check it, the motor I can do not sure about the switch. I have 2 black wires from the motor to hook to 2 white wire on cap does it matter what wire go to what. Niether cap or motor are markedIll let you know. Why would the switch matter if the other speed work ok, the power to 1 is the same as 5 isn't it. I'm clueless about this stuff


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## rocky1 (Dec 24, 2017)

Yep, it should be the same to an extent. Theoretically, the higher the Gear/RPM the more load you're going to put on the motor. Increased load demands increased Amperage, dirty contacts in the switch build resistance preventing/limiting amp flow. You changed the capacitor, and the same holds true on it. 

Part of trouble shooting electrical problems is to narrow the list of potential causes. Determining you have proper voltage is the first step on the list. 
Personally, I think you have an issue of some nature with your belt/pulley, but without being there to look at all of it, it's hard to say. Motor humming on start could be a result of the belt slipping. Is there more wear on the pulley in the higher gears? I wonder if they aren't polished, where the others have enough friction for the belt to grip.


You should have a black wire on the motor and a white wire on the capacitor that come from your power cord, through the switch, the other black wire and white wire should go to fields in the motor. You want to test the two wires on the power cord.


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## Karda (Dec 24, 2017)

as far as the belt goes the highest speed I have never used, when I went to use it for the first time is when the issue arose and at that time 4th started acting up. It happened once a week or so before on 3 but hasen't bothered on 3 since. when i was messin with the belt it started normal on 4 but when I came back later wouldn't work. the wheels have dark streaks on the raised part of the wheel could be polished. when I worked in the hard ware store years ago we carried belt dressing is that still available, would that prevent slipping. 

I have 2 black wiresd coming from the motor and 2 white on the cap none are marked that I can tell here is a pic of it wired


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## rocky1 (Dec 24, 2017)

Yeah, Google says you can still buy belt dressing, Wally World has it cheap, but I'm not sure you want to be spraying that on a pulley under your lathe. You could definitely have some traction going there in short order, if it's belt slip. But, that could get kinda ugly with all those wood chips flying around. 

Went out and checked my Harbor Freight lathe, and I see what you mean on wires at the motor and capacitor. Be easier to pull the two screws on your switch and test the poles on the back of the switch. Should have the same reading across the top two poles as you do across the bottom two. 

Aside from that, looking at things that might cause issues there, the only thing I can come up with is...

Make sure the keyway is in the bottom pulley.
Check and make sure your set screws are tight in top and bottom pulleys.
Make sure the belt is on corresponding pulley top and bottom. 
Check your belt for damage. 
Check belt tension and tighten if necessary.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Karda (Dec 25, 2017)

ok I'll check those things on the list. I took the switch off to see how it was hooked up, there is a little sawdust in the box. I wouldn't spray the belt dressing i would apply it with a q tip or someting, that way is might not throw off as bad. could the belt have stretched. I saw a video on changing the belt on that lathe and he said he used a differnt size belt that worked better. Is that something I should consider. Thanks, better get to bed santa will be coming soon. Merry Christmas


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## rocky1 (Dec 25, 2017)

Can't imagine belt length being an issue looking at mine. There where you loosen the motor up front of the machine to move the belt, I'm dead center of adjustment with no issues as far as slippage. If you've run out of room on adjustment, the belt may be your issue.


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## Karda (Dec 25, 2017)

ok, I don't even know where the belt adjustment except to raise and lower the motor


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## rocky1 (Dec 25, 2017)

Yeah it just raises and lowers the motor to tighten the belt. Mine is perfectly centered in the slot.


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## Karda (Dec 25, 2017)

ok then thats ok


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## Karda (Dec 25, 2017)

I checked the switch, 118.6 coming in and 117.5 going out


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