# Finishing and treating dark woods



## ClintW (Dec 20, 2017)

I am working to put some DIW for a knife handle. In the process I am thinking what is the best way to treat the handle so it doesn't darken so much as when using standard BLO, my finish of choice for most handles. I would suppose this would apply in most any finishing case also, but I find it particular hard for handles which I feel really need a more penetrating finish. Would a slight bleaching before finishing to lighten the wood a touch help? Any thoughts and insight are welcomed.


----------



## Foot Patrol (Dec 20, 2017)

@ClintW Not sure what BLO is but when I finish DIW I hand sand to 1500 grit and then buff with white rouge. I get amazing luster on my DIW handles this way.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------



## barry richardson (Dec 20, 2017)

DIW sands to a high luster and you will be tempted to use no finish at all, but if you don't the wood will oxidize and darken rather quickly. I have a couple of knives with DIW handles that members here have made for me, I'm pretty sure they said they are finished with trueoil, and the color is holding up nicely. There must be something in true oil that makes it cure differently from other oil finishes, which don't like DIW and other oily woods. My experience in DIW is mostly turning, I use mainly lacquer, probably not a good choice for knives though...... I would say that BLO is a no-go on DIW, would probably stay tacky forever....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Dec 20, 2017)

Foot Patrol said:


> @ClintW Not sure what BLO is but when I finish DIW I hand sand to 1500 grit and then buff with white rouge. I get amazing luster on my DIW handles this way.



BLO=boiled linseed oil

BLO is going to darken anything you put it on. Trueoil or arm-r-seal stay pretty tue to color

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## ClintW (Dec 20, 2017)

Thanks! I had thought maybe Trueoil
@Mike1950 are you talking the real Trueoil, or the fake stuff from big box stores?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Dec 20, 2017)

ClintW said:


> Thanks! I had thought maybe Trueoil
> @Mike1950 are you talking the real Trueoil, or the fake stuff from big box stores?



I did not know there was fake stuff. I bought mine on line for a gun stock


----------



## ClintW (Dec 20, 2017)

@Mike1950 Ahh, I think I was confusing it with Tungoil. 

Great to know though. Will have to get a bottle of that tonight to start getting these scales treated to be gift-able by this weekend.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Dec 20, 2017)

ClintW said:


> @Mike1950 Ahh, I think I was confusing it with Tungoil.
> 
> Great to know though. Will have to get a bottle of that tonight to start getting these scales treated to be gift-able by this weekend.


Tungoil is a whole different scam. Most tung oil is not tung oil

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Steve Smith (Dec 20, 2017)

I like to go with a high performance waterbourne finish like Enduro poly. Other like CrystaLac, though I haven't tried it.

I like using lacquer for my turnings, but for projects that will see a good amount of handling a pre catalyzed lacquer is the way to go, but it requires the whole spray set up and isn't worth it for knives unless you do many at one time.

Finishes like Enduro are meant to be sprayed but also are very easy to brush apply. This is one example

https://woodbarter.com/threads/canadian-skinner-in-amboyna-burl.30144/


----------



## ripjack13 (Dec 21, 2017)

On the diw handles I've done, I used truoil. Rubbed in the first coat with my fingers, then let it dry 24 hours or more, then one more coat and called it good.

If you do use truoil and use your hands/fingers....A tip to clean your hands after, i rubbed my hands in some dusty dry dirt from my driveway. It attaches itself to the oil . Then I'd wash my hands with dawn detergent and warm water. And a scrub brush...

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------

