# Aromatic Cedar Question



## dee (Sep 15, 2014)

I considered myself lucky today. On my way home from town, two guys I know where clearing a vacant lot. I just stopped to say hi and BS a little. They had something for me...FREE! Who can pass up a couple nice pieces of cedar for a couple bottles of H2O. I did give them something at least. I love...the way it looks and smells. But I've never worked cedar before and want as little amount of waste as possible. I notice the bark is very thin.
Here's my questions:
1. How easy is it to carve without too much splintering.
2. It's fresh cut...so how long to dry.
3. Image 3 you can see that some bugs got it....doesn't seem too deep.
4. How to debark it.
5. What kind of finish to use if any.
6. Will it split if a screw is put to tight to an edge. (I countersink but concerned about external pressure)
Anyway I was thinking about carving a mini spiral stairway twisting around the more round piece. Not sure yet...and that's why I posted here. Please help meh to better understand the characteristics of this beautiful wood. It's got the most awesome maroon/lavender tint to it. And my hands still smell from touching it, (I may never wash my hands again)!
Dimensions: 24" x 5 1/2" on both, but as you can see the one piece the buggies got is more elipsoid in cross section.


 

 


Peace, Dee


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## Mike1950 (Sep 15, 2014)

Should carve easy 2 should dry fast. 4 drawknife or knife-should debark easy. Drill hole for screw and you should be ok- it is not as soft as western red cedar. I love the smell of the 3 cedars I have worked with-red, port orford and eastern- juniper also has a great smell.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## dee (Sep 15, 2014)

Mike, I live in Deep south east Texas. This is obviously "red" right? Here it is sitting on top of a solid piece of oak I got from the same guys. There's more of this cedar on that lot too. If I bring those guys Gatorade tomorrow....who knows.



It is truly beautiful.....Oh thanks for the advice!
Peace, Dee


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## Mike1950 (Sep 15, 2014)

Not western red- it would be eastern- harder then our cedar. @Kevin would know a lot more about texas cedar. The bark is similar but they all are different-especially the aroma. In my 20's I cut down a 5' one- they grow huge. I just resawed some eastern the other day -my shop still smells wonderful..............

Reactions: Like 1


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## JR Parks (Sep 15, 2014)

Dee,
This is really _Juniperus virginiana. _ Eastern red cedar. The aggies will tell you a little about it here:
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/natives/juniperusvirginiana.htm
You might also check: _Juniperus ashei_

_


dee said:



1. How easy is it to carve without too much splintering. 
 Should carve easily-This is a favorite chainsaw carving wood 
2. It's fresh cut...so how long to dry. 
Carve a bit and allow to continue to dry. it is relatively stable-
3. Image 3 you can see that some bugs got it....doesn't seem too deep.
More than likely not bugs but a a dry rot- carve it out- 
4. How to debark it.
ERC bark should peel lengthwise fairly easy. The greener the better to peel. Should get nice long strips. Actually this looks kinda dry -you may have to coax peeling with knife or drawknife-
5. What kind of finish to use if any-
Any finish will darken this wood. ERC is very durable so depending on use you may not need any-
6. Will it split if a screw is put to tight to an edge. (I countersink but concerned about external pressure)

Click to expand...


It does split rather easily-
_
I once saw the best Gargoyle ever carved from ERC.
Good luck

Reactions: Useful 1


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## dee (Sep 16, 2014)

After hearing numerous aggie joke's, I was reluctant to visit that site, and of course I'm joking. But seriously JR, thanks a lot...very informative. Mike suggested debarking with a drawknife or knife. The hardware store was closed already, and I didn't want to run around looking for a drawknife atm. However, I was so excited about getting into the cedar, I went with his second option, the knife. I found a good olde sturdy cutlery knife and grabbed the whetstone to put an edge on it. That seems to do a pretty good job, and the bark does come off rather easily. Ironically, even though this wood was cut away from the root system and now technically dead, it's actually coming back to life! The odd shaped piece I'll save for later, the round piece I've decided to create what I hope will be a piece of art. I'm going to carve a fantasy type stairway spiraling around and around from bottom to top, (or vise versa) and then build an awesome toothpick structure of some sort to top it off. If you can imagine a tiny castle way off in the distance, sort of like something you might see in the Hobbit or maybe Conan movie. 
The splitting from the other piece I'm gently pulled off by hand, with gloves on of course, and saving in a zip-loc. When I begin to carve the stairway, I'll keep JR's information in mind and try not to create splitting when I begin to carve out this stairway. The carving will be a more or less long term project, but I'm a pretty tenacious dude. 
Your insight is of great value, and I'm glad to be in this forum. 


 

 

 

 
Image 1 the irregular piece and you can see the splitting, that's being extracted by hand and splinters saved.
The other figures are some toothpick structures I make. The one that wood go on the top of the carving
wood be much more intricate. 
Thanks again you guys, and I'll post some pics as this project evolves.
Peace, Dee


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## dee (Sep 16, 2014)

What are your thoughts on using a "dremel tool" to do some of this carving. It may rotate to fast and create unwanted splintering? I have always wanted a Dremel tool, I may now have a good excuse to go buy one.
Dee


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## JR Parks (Sep 16, 2014)

A dermal will work fine. A foredom even better http://www.foredom.net 
have fun!

Reactions: Useful 1


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## dee (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks man! Something like this could go on the top. Refer to the classroom section my thread..."Structural Integrity"



Peace, Dee
Foredom is awesome


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## dee (Sep 16, 2014)

I think sanding this cedar is almost as easy as erasing lead from paper.


 

 
The end grain before and after comparison is quite stunning to say the least.


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## dee (Sep 18, 2014)

Well here's the results from the advice you guys gave me. Debarked and sanded.


 

 

 
Now that's one beautiful piece of wood! figure 3 is the residual sawdust, and I'm going to put that to good use...no I'm not going to add hot water and stir. I think this stuff will sell at the flea market for a variety of uses, from little bags wrapped in fabric for the clothes drawer, to model railroaders who want some texture build up. I have other ideas for the log itself!
Cheers, Dee

Reactions: Like 1


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## dee (Sep 18, 2014)

This is an example of how the recovered sawdust will work for modelers.


 


This is one of my toothpick structures in the works.
1. sifter
2. wood glue
3. bag of cedar sawdust (any sawdust would work and different woods would create different tones)
Apply thin coat of wood glue then simple hold the sifter with the sawdust at a moderate height above the work and gently shake. Blow the excess off.
The cedar will also give the structure a fresh aroma. The built-up sawdust also covers the seams.
Again thanks for the advice you have given...I took it from there and built upon it. Like I said..."I don't like to waste anything".
Peace, Dee


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