# Turning Cracked Mill Blanks



## Kevin (Nov 26, 2014)

@Mrfish55 and I have a trade initiated where he sent me a boatload of awesome YCB and in return I turn him a mill. The wood is awesome, but the three mill blanks all have significant deep cracks. How would you handle this? 



 



 



 

As you can see they go past center - will superglue be enough or do I need to stabilize these? I was hoping to get his mill back to him by Christmas but if I have to stabilize them it won't be possible since they are green. Also, not sure stabilizing will hold the cracks together they are pretty cracked bot just hairline. Any ideas?


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## woodintyuuu (Nov 26, 2014)

kevin soak the areas with superthin superglue do not accelerate then when ya get to close to finsh depth use the super black thick stuff i was mentioning cupla wks ago if ya need i can send ya a little that you want to accelerate , it is so thick it does not overseep into the wood and stain it . cl

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Kevin (Nov 26, 2014)

Thanks Cliff. I take it back though - ignore what I said on the phone this stuff is dry it's at 6.5% so do I rough turn it and drill it then ca right before I sand and finish?


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## Mrfish55 (Nov 26, 2014)

Bummer, wonder if it's the humidity/temperature difference between here and there that caused them to open up like that? Don't rush it no hurry and if the blanks look questionable don't turn them, no sense getting hurt if it decides to come apart.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Nov 26, 2014)

Don't worry Dave I can figure this out (with the help of the brain trust). You're going to get a peppermill and salt shaker from this yellow gold hell or high water.


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## Mike1950 (Nov 26, 2014)

Mrfish55 said:


> Bummer, wonder if it's the humidity/temperature difference between here and there that caused them to open up like that? Don't rush it no hurry and if the blanks look questionable don't turn them, no sense getting hurt if it decides to come apart.




I think sometimes taking them up to 30,000 ft and then bringing them back down does it. Just speculation though.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## DKMD (Nov 26, 2014)

I'd definitely stabilize if you've got the capability. I've never turned YCB, so I don't know anything about the properties of the wood. I would think it would be tough to really hide the cracks, so I'd be tempted to use sormthing dark like Cliff suggested. I tend to use ebony or Blackwood dust, but I know folks who use dyed epoxy. I've never played with the black CA, but I don't see why it won't work.

If you wanted to get really fussy, you could cut the blank along the cracks and use a contrast wood or veneer to fill the gaps between the sections.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## NYWoodturner (Nov 26, 2014)

Kevin - Stabilization will help prevent future movement, and at 6.5% I month think your going to have much anyway after it is finished. It will not however do a good enough ob of filling those voids. I would sand a lot while it is oversized to acquire a good bit of sanding dust. then use black as cliff suggested or medium viscosity CA and fill the top layer with a YCB and CA to create a slurry. Let that set up without accelerator and sand it back. It will likely take a few applications but the cracks will be all but invisible. That will be a challenge to that method as those cracks are so wide and long. My second choice would be to dye epoxy either a contrasting color or a complementary color.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## woodintyuuu (Nov 26, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Thanks Cliff. I take it back though - ignore what I said on the phone this stuff is dry it's at 6.5% so do I rough turn it and drill it then ca right before I sand and finish?


flood with the thin in the cracks flood! then let glue set up drill center flood any crack that shows on inside with thin let setup do finish turning and then fill with the super black stuff that will be on the way fri morn the intrmitent dust idea from scott is also spot on as it can go in with a toothpick after ya fill it with the superblack just swirl the dust in with toothpick to create a vareigted look that will be more than adequate to look outstanding

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## SENC (Nov 26, 2014)

You have an unbelievable group of coaches, counselors and advisors on the job! No way you can screw it up now, Kevin! Can't wait to see it.


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## TimR (Nov 26, 2014)

I think I'd do pretty much what Cliff suggested, and it's pretty much what I had to do with the black ash hurl PPM I made before yours. Want enough CA initially to safely turn, then once you're close to the final form, start getting fancy with in laying shavings, stone, epoxy, etc.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Tim Carter (Nov 27, 2014)

My only suggestion would be to consider using malachite to fill the cracks to create a contrast that draws the eye. I think the dark green malachite would look very nice with the YCB.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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