# Carbide insert chisel build



## woodtickgreg

This is my attempt at making a carbide insert lathe chisel. I purchased and tried a easy wood tools square roughing tool and was imediatly sold on the concept, they work awesome, the only downside is the cost. All good quality tools are expensive, They can cost $100-$150. I purchased mine on sale at woodcraft for $129 and it was worth it but I have to watch my money and spend wisely to stretch my tool dollars. So I purchased a carbide cutter with screw for under $20 and scavenged everything else I would need to make the tools I would need to further advance in my turning journey. The only other expense was for a solid carbide 4 flute 5/8" roughing end mill, purchased locally for$39, which I can use to make more tools and of different styles. So here goes, lots of pics for you pic hounds. [attachment=2002]Measure the thickness of the cutter 1/8"[attachment=2003] Apply dykem machinest layout blue to 1/2" square X 14" long stainless steel barstock. I used a sharp scratch awl to scribe lines 1/8" down from top and positioned cutter upside down on barstock so that the small diameter of the cutter was even with the front edge of the barstock and scribed the circumfrence on the top of the barstock.[attachment=2004] Here you can see the layout lines, the material will be machined away to the lines.[attachment=2005][attachment=2006]


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## Kevin

Subscribed. 


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## Mike Mills

I have the stuff to make some myself if I ever get around to it. Is the end mill cutter to cut the circular outline? I had planned on just mounting mine to the top. 
I also have some square cutters and plan on cutting a recess so they can’t turn under duress.
I’ll be watching for progress and tips as I haven’t tried any before.
Where did you get your cutter from?
Mike


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2007]here you can see that I have bolted a small cross slide machinest vise to my drill press table, make sure it is bolted securely as you do not want any movement. You can also see the 5/8" roughing mill chucked up. I set the speed for the drill press as slow as it would go, 210rpm, as stainless is tough to work with, heat is the enemy.[attachment=2008]This is after the cut which takes 5 to 10 minutes, with the cross slide vice you can feed it very slowly into the cutter. I used a cutting lube that is kind of like a big chapstick, you just rub it into the flutes of the cutter and as the cutter warms up it redistributes the lube as needed. I advanced the stock into the cutter to the curved layout line and to just slightly more than 1/8" deep, also to the layout line.[attachment=2009][attachment=2010] Here you can see the pocket debured and the back edge at the pencil point cleaned up. I used a dremel with a fine small sanding drum, do not touch the bottom of the pocket as it must remain absolutely flat or the carbide insert can crack when the screw is tightened.[attachment=2020] And this is how the insert will rest in the pocket.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2025]Here I have applied more layout blue and set the insert back on top to scribe the area where the center of the cutter will be.[attachment=2026]OOPS! I forgot to show what the pocket looks like after it is cut with the roughing mill and before it is cleaned up, break off the large burr on the backside and clean up with the dremmel.[attachment=2030] Here I am drilling the hole for the cutter screw, it is an 8-32 machine screw, I purchased a tap and drill together for $5 at lowes. You want to center punch and drill the hole just slightly towards the front or the end of the pocket so that the carbide insert cutting edge doesn't touch anywhere but flat on the bottom. Still drilling at 210rpm! Go very slowly so the drill bit doesn't walk, I cut 2 long continuous chips, Remember this is stainless, go slow with all machining processes.[attachment=2031]With the chips cleared you can see how the hole is off centered to the front edge.[attachment=2032]Here I have removed the drill bit and chucked up the tap without moving anything, this keeps the tap perfectly centered, I just started the tap by turning the drill press spindle pully by hand until just started, when I felt resistance I stopped.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2033] Now I have released the tap from the chuck but did not remove it from the material so that it stays perfectly centered and attached a tap handle. 1/8 turn back off to break the chips 1/8 back off 1/8 back off and repeat untill all the way through. be sure to use some cutting oil liberally, I used 3 in 1 oil, gun oil will work also, you have guns don't you.[attachment=2035] Once again without moving anything countersink the hole for clearance of the screw when tightening the cutter[attachment=2034] Here I used a rifler file to remove the bur from the top of the pocket after tapping and counter sinking the hole.[attachment=2036]Now test fit the cutter to make sure the countersink is deep enough to allow the cutter to be tightened. Make sure that the carbide does not touch at the back or the edge can be chipped. No contact at pencil point, very important.[attachment=2037] Apply more blue and attach cutter with screw, scribe a line at the base of the cutter where material will be ground away from the front of the cutter pocket.[attachment=2038] And what it looks like when the material has been ground away from the front of the pocket for clearance when cutting inside a bowl.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2039]And what it should look like with the cutter attached, notice how the material has been ground back to allow the cutter to extend past the pocket for clearance when turning inside a bowl.[attachment=2040][attachment=2041]At this point the cutter pocket is done so I did a little metal finishing, sanded through the grits starting with 150, 220, 320, 400, and 600. when you get to the 600 it almost looks polished, overkill for a lathe chisel that's going to get beat to death and scraped along a tool rest, but why not.[attachment=2042] Oh, and what your hands look like after sanding stainless steel.[attachment=2043] Finished and unfinished.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2044]And to get a square peg into a round hole you need to knock off the corners to get to a round shape of about 1/2", after machining the corners round the rest of the way on the bench grinder. The vise has a v groove in it to allow clamping square stock on an angle.[attachment=2045]And here is the finished metal part, 10" blade and 4" rounded to insert into a handle. This part of the project took about 3 or 4 hours. And now about the handles, use a good hardwood like maple, ash, cherry, walnut, or? I'm going to use walnut because a have a good piece that I have been saving for tool handles.[attachment=2046]This is a really irregular piece of walnut, notice the rough chainsaw cuts from the tree cutter, I also marked where it was checked from the drying process.I was going to use this for a bowl but the checks said tool handles instead.[attachment=2047]This side is a little smoother from my chainsaw mill. I am going to try and use the sapwood in my handle just for looks as walnut sapwood is still very hard.[attachment=2048] So I bandsawed out 3 blanks and squared up the ends on the miter saw, I cut a couple of extra blanks because of that murphy guy.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2050]I rough turned a couple of the blanks between a spur drive and a live ball bearing center. I cut a tenon on one end to clamp into my supper nova chuck for more stability and less vibration.[attachment=2051]You don't have to buy brass ferules, make your own out of 1" thick wall copper pipe, file the burs off the inside and measure the inside diameter, 1 1/8".[attachment=2052] I then rough turned the handle and cut a tenon on the handle for the ferule, cut the tenon a little longer than the ferule to flush trim after the ferule is installed. Notice I left the tenon a little large to sand to final size, this is where mounting the blank in a chuck comes in handy, I can remove the tailstock to check the fit of the ferule to tenon and replace the tailstock perfectly centered as many times as needed.[attachment=2053]I rough turned this entire handle with a radiused square carbide roughing chisel very quickly. Sanded through the grits and ready for ferule install.[attachment=2054]Mixed up some 5 min epoxy and glued the ferule on. After it set up I sanded the ferule to 600 grit and the handle to 320.


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## woodtickgreg

[attachment=2058][attachment=2055] And this is what the handles look like with a couple of coats of shellac under incandescant and flourescent light, coated the ferule also so it doesn't oxadize and become dull looking. I will apply a couple of coats of oil poly after the blades are epoxied in, I will post that when I get to it this week after work but that's all I have for now.


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## Kenbo

Wow, this is awesome. Very very nice


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## woodtickgreg

Mike Mills said:


> I have the stuff to make some myself if I ever get around to it. Is the end mill cutter to cut the circular outline? I had planned on just mounting mine to the top.
> I also have some square cutters and plan on cutting a recess so they can’t turn under duress.
> I’ll be watching for progress and tips as I haven’t tried any before.
> Where did you get your cutter from?
> Mike


Yes mike the end mill is to cut the round profile of the cutter 5/8 cutter = 5/8 end mill. But it can also be used to cut a square pocket, just cut across rather than lengthwise. If you cut a recess for a square cutter you should cut 2 recesses in a step fasion so that the cutting edge doesn't touch anything and get chipped, this way the insert would be supported on the backside bottom of the insert only. I got my carbide insert from woodcraft and the end mill from wholesale tool.


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## CodyS

WOW amazing job! thanks for sharing!


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## SlickSqueegie

WOW Greg! They turned out AWESOME! Excellent Job! I am very very impressed.


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## Mike Mills

Thanks. I guess I should have waited a few seconds longer. :yes: You gave the answer but your post made it just after my questions (shows posted at the same time).
Wish I had a metal lathe. Here is what I came up with for 1/2" and being able to swap out bits.

[attachment=2071]


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## woodtickgreg

SlickSqueegie said:


> WOW Greg! They turned out AWESOME! Excellent Job! I am very very impressed.


You changed your avatar again!? Who's the dude in the middle?


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## Kevin

Greg I would like to place my order put me in line for one. 




:dance:


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## woodtickgreg

OK so I finally got some time in the shop and finished up the first chisel build. 2 coats of dewaxed shellac and sanded, 2 coats of oil poly and sanded then 0000 steel wool, then a coat of wax just for giggles. Drilled a 1/2 hole in the handle and had to grind the shaft of the steel a little more so I had a friction fit so I could insert and remove the chisel by hand. Mixed up some 2 part epoxy and used a thin strip of wood to coat the hole inside the handle well and spread a little on the steel shaft as well. Inserted the shaft and a couple of taps with a deadblow mallet at the very end and it was driven home. I had very little squeese out and what I did have I scraped off with a razor blade and used the excess to coat the end of the chisel at the ferule. I'm happy with the tool, It has good balance and feels good in the hand, 26" overall length. It has been a fun project that was rewarding to do, especially since this first one I'm giving to my friend and member of this forum slicksqueege. I hope he gets good use out of it and beats the h e double hockey sticks out of it! It's only new once. Now to turn the handle for mine, a little longer though just because I like the controll of a longer handle. Here's a couple pics of the finished tool. One other thing to note, Put a little grease or anti seize on the threads of the screw before attaching the cutter so you can get it out latter to sharpen or change the cutter.[attachment=2124][attachment=2125][attachment=2126][attachment=2127]


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## SlickSqueegie

woodtickgreg said:


> OK so I finally got some time in the shop and finished up the first chisel build. 2 coats of dewaxed shellac and sanded, 2 coats of oil poly and sanded then 0000 steel wool, then a coat of wax just for giggles. Drilled a 1/2 hole in the handle and had to grind the shaft of the steel a little more so I had a friction fit so I could insert and remove the chisel by hand. Mixed up some 2 part epoxy and used a thin strip of wood to coat the hole inside the handle well and spread a little on the steel shaft as well. Inserted the shaft and a couple of taps with a deadblow mallet at the very end and it was driven home. I had very little squeese out and what I did have I scraped off with a razor blade and used the excess to coat the end of the chisel at the ferule. I'm happy with the tool, It has good balance and feels good in the hand, 26" overall length. It has been a fun project that was rewarding to do, especially since this first one I'm giving to my friend and member of this forum slicksqueege. I hope he gets good use out of it and beats the h e double hockey sticks out of it! It's only new once. Now to turn the handle for mine, a little longer though just because I like the controll of a longer handle. Here's a couple pics of the finished tool. One other thing to note, Put a little grease or anti seize on the threads of the screw before attaching the cutter so you can get it out latter to sharpen or change the cutter.



Man I cant wait to try it out... I have two bowls roughed and ready for it!!! I dont think this tool could be made much better!!! Nice job!


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## Kevin

Man that's super nice. I can't believe I am getting one custom-made! On on WB could most of us afford one! 



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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> Man that's super nice. I can't believe I am getting one custom-made! On on WB could most of us afford one!
> 
> 
> 
> .


believe it you are! still trying to source some more 1/2" stainless, it's coming, but I did find some 3/8" for some smaller chisels that I want to build. I reckon you'll use some fancy shmancy wood for the handle


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## Kevin

woodtickgreg said:


> No hurry Greg I got a few chores to do between now and then.
> 
> 
> .
> ... I reckon you'll use some fancy shmancy wood for the handle



Yep. I guess I'll go to Lowe's and buy some of their fancy shmancy oak. :rofl2:



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## CodyS

Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:

BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:


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## woodtickgreg

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:
> 
> BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:


Cody, actually I think metric is better but it was never really adopted here. when I was a small engine mechanic I found it to be much easier to use the metric system as far as the tips go, can you order from woodcraft on line in aus.?


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:
> 
> BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> Cody, actually I think metric is better but it was never really adopted here. when I was a small engine mechanic I found it to be much easier to use the metric system as far as the tips go, can you order from woodcraft on line in aus.?
Click to expand...


It appears I can! Don't know what the cost would be, but shouldn't be too bad considering the size(knowing aus prices on things it will probably end up being cheaper).


On the matter of metric vs imperial, I have decided it may be a 'bad' (:diablo:) idea to start a poll thread on what people prefer (could be interesting). If I am succesful in this I am planning to make a movement that you all change over to metric (plus it saves my brain farts every time I read anything imperial):clapping:.


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:
> 
> BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> Cody, actually I think metric is better but it was never really adopted here. when I was a small engine mechanic I found it to be much easier to use the metric system as far as the tips go, can you order from woodcraft on line in aus.?
Click to expand...


Can you suggest which tips would be best? I have no idea...

I would prefer to get what I need now to save me money on shipping.


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## Kevin

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> ...
> On the matter of metric vs imperial, I have decided it may be a 'bad' (:diablo:) idea to start a poll thread on what people prefer (could be interesting). If I am succesful in this I am planning to make a movement that you all change over to metric (plus it saves my brain farts every time I read anything imperial):clapping:.



Make the poll but I'll give you the results and some sample comments from "imperialists" right now:

"Yeah, metric makes more sense but I'm sticking with imperial because I don't want to have to throw out all my measuring instruments and apply metric ribbons over my table saw rail and other machinery and jigs and learn a whole new system."


And the results to a question such as "If you currently use imperial would you prefer to convert your whole shop, tools, and mind over to metric?" 

The poll will look something like this: 

Do you wish Wood Barter members to adopt the Metric system only? 

[attachment=2145]

And I think I was being liberal with the green. :morning2:


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## woodtickgreg

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:
> 
> BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> Cody, actually I think metric is better but it was never really adopted here. when I was a small engine mechanic I found it to be much easier to use the metric system as far as the tips go, can you order from woodcraft on line in aus.?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Can you suggest which tips would be best? I have no idea...
> 
> I would prefer to get what I need now to save me money on shipping.
Click to expand...

Cody, easy wood tools basicly offers 2 sizes of cutters for 3/8" and 1/2" bars and square or round for each. The only other exception is the large square cutter is also available with a radiused edge 2" 0r 4" and I prefer the 2" for a general roughing cutter, The handle of the chisel in this thread was made with the 2" radius square cutter. It allows you to cut straight or a slight curve. The cutters for the 1/2" bars are best for full size lathes and the 3/8" for mini lathes or for detail work, the 3/8" can also be used to make mini tools like for pens and such. U.S. prices are about $16-$18 each. I now have 1 large square w/radius and just made a large round, I also want to make the same in 3/8" bar for detail work and pens. So as far as which to suggest, depends on what size your lathe is, but at least 1 square and 1 round. I hope this helps:yes:


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work, wouldn't mind making a couple of these myself. Just gotta find a supplier in Aus for the tips. :i_dunno:
> 
> BTW Have I ever told you or anyone that metric is better? :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> Cody, actually I think metric is better but it was never really adopted here. when I was a small engine mechanic I found it to be much easier to use the metric system as far as the tips go, can you order from woodcraft on line in aus.?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Can you suggest which tips would be best? I have no idea...
> 
> I would prefer to get what I need now to save me money on shipping.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cody, easy wood tools basicly offers 2 sizes of cutters for 3/8" and 1/2" bars and square or round for each. The only other exception is the large square cutter is also available with a radiused edge 2" 0r 4" and I prefer the 2" for a general roughing cutter, The handle of the chisel in this thread was made with the 2" radius square cutter. It allows you to cut straight or a slight curve. The cutters for the 1/2" bars are best for full size lathes and the 3/8" for mini lathes or for detail work, the 3/8" can also be used to make mini tools like for pens and such. U.S. prices are about $16-$18 each. I now have 1 large square w/radius and just made a large round, I also want to make the same in 3/8" bar for detail work and pens. So as far as which to suggest, depends on what size your lathe is, but at least 1 square and 1 round. I hope this helps:yes:
Click to expand...


It certainly does thanks!


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## woodtickgreg

I learned something today. The last chisel I was making I was cutting the pocket for the cutter and hadn't noticed that the gibs on my cross slide vice had loosened up from use, the cutter grabed and lifted the work piece and took a much deeper cut than it should have chipping 2 flutes on the cutter! Crap, off to the el cheapo tool store to buy another one, Crap, no solid carbide in stock. Hmmm what to do? I tried a cobalt cutter that was on sale for under $20, It worked just as good and was way cheaper, woo hoo So I bought a smaller one for a hollowing tool that I am making, it's gonna be pretty cool, can't wait to get it done, machine work is done so now on to metal finishing. Guys you gotta try this, if you can work wood you can work metal and it's fun, and will build up your turning tool arsenal with good quality tools on the cheap!


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## woodtickgreg

So this is a little more ambitious than the round or square chisels that are in this thread but still doable by the average joe with some skills with their hands. If you can work wood you can work metal. the tool is not quite done but here is what I have so far.[attachment=2745] Took a piece of 1/2" stainless steel.[attachment=2746][attachment=2747] I then drew up the shape that I wanted and took the drawing and the stainless to a metal fab shop and had it cnc plasma cut. This saved a great deal of time with cutting the piece to rough shape.


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## woodtickgreg

And here's a few pics of the finished metal part of the tool. I am applying the finish to the handle I will use with this hollowing chisel, when it is done I will post pics of the finished tool.[attachment=2750][attachment=2751][attachment=2752][attachment=2753][attachment=2754][attachment=2755][attachment=2756] One other thing that I will add is that the hardest part and most nerve racking was drilling and taping the hole for the insert screw! It is a #4-40tpi screw, while drilling the hole about half way through I hit a hard spot that was caused by the heat from the plasma cutter. I used lots of oil and very light pressure and crossed my fingers and hoped that the bit didn't snap, it didn't. taping was very very slow as well, if I had broke the tap it would have been a disaster, I don't think there would have been any way to get the broken tap out. With a larger tap I have hit the broken tap with a punch and shattered the hardened tap and removed it in pieces, I don't think this could have been done with a tap this small. anyway all is well and everything worked out well.


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## Kevin

Greg that is looking awesome. The only thing I might do different is to use actual 1/2" barstock for the tang instead of fooling with all that grinding. If you can't weld it yourself it wouldn't cost much (or anything if you have a buddy with a tig/mig) to weld it so it would never come apart. Proper prep would be key. You'd want to cone-shape the end and build up around that so there wouldn't be much to grind and dress. With welding the key is "surface area surface area surface area!"

Other than that, that thing rocks. Even *with* that it rocks I'm just trying to think of a way to give it an ever more professional appearance than it has - and it does have that not saying it doesn't. Thanks for showing us how to do this.


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> Greg that is looking awesome. The only thing I might do different is to use actual 1/2" barstock for the tang instead of fooling with all that grinding. If you can't weld it yourself it wouldn't cost much (or anything if you have a buddy with a tig/mig) to weld it so it would never come apart. Proper prep would be key. You'd want to cone-shape the end and build up around that so there wouldn't be much to grind and dress. With welding the key is "surface area surface area surface area!"
> 
> Other than that, that thing rocks. Even *with* that it rocks I'm just trying to think of a way to give it an ever more professional appearance than it has - and it does have that not saying it doesn't. Thanks for showing us how to do this.


Kevin, thanks for the feedback! I am very skilled with welding, mig, tig. I did think about welding a round stainless bar on for the tang. The reason that the tool is made in one piece is for strength due to the fact that it will be extended off the tool rest quite a bit when being used. It is not like a hunter tool where the cutter is held at an angle to cut, but like the easy wood tools where the cutter is held dead flat and the rest takes the beating, like the tool I sent you, extending far off the rest magnafies this, hence the need for thick solid stock and a large flat area on the tool to prevent torque twisting, as a bonus the plasma cutting process somewhat hardens the tool also, plus with the way I have metal finished this tool it is very smooth and rounded and won't catch on anything and it feels great in your hand! Does any of this make any sense? The funny thing is that it takes longer for me to make a handle than to make the chisel It's the finishing that takes the time on the handle, I can turn one rather quickly.


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## Vern Tator

:i_am_so_happy: Wow, a learning experience that I wasn't even looking for. Never thought of using my drill press as a mill! I have made many turning handles and use the copper pipe ferule as well. However I make the handle a little large and heat the copper to install. Stays really tight and no adhesive required. Just what works for me. Great job, atta boy!!!! well done!!!!
Vern


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## DKMD

Man, that's a nice looking hollower! Of all the 'Easy' tools, that style is the one that I find most tempting. I've got a Sorby swan neck hollower that I often use for cleaning up the shoulders of my forms(inside), and the tool you've shown might be a more stable option.


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## woodtickgreg

rbaccus said:


> Bueatiful workmanship and finishing. you could sell that as metal art. those "arty" people would never figure out it was a tool anyway.
> 
> 
> Question, i notice on several of these carbide tools(round cutters) is there really any need to cut a round seat for the cutter other than esthetics. they sure look better than mine but i was wondering?:fool3:


That's a very good question, I do it for a few reasons, it offers some protection for the cutter, it looks better and I made it so that's important and the main reason is it also reduces the size of the tip allowing better access in tight areas. Tapered to a rounded point is better than a big wad of metal at the end. On the square cutters its important to keep the cutter from rotating when pulling or pushing to the sides.


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## woodtickgreg

Vern Tator said:


> :i_am_so_happy: Wow, a learning experience that I wasn't even looking for. Never thought of using my drill press as a mill! I have made many turning handles and use the copper pipe ferule as well. However I make the handle a little large and heat the copper to install. Stays really tight and no adhesive required. Just what works for me. Great job, atta boy!!!! well done!!!!
> Vern



You can use a drill press as a mill as long as the cuts are light and not excessive side pressure. Think about it like this, they were designed to cut down not to the side. But we all have drum sanded with them haven't we!


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## woodtickgreg

rbaccus said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rbaccus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bueatiful workmanship and finishing. you could sell that as metal art. those "arty" people would never figure out it was a tool anyway.
> 
> 
> Question, i notice on several of these carbide tools(round cutters) is there really any need to cut a round seat for the cutter other than esthetics. they sure look better than mine but i was wondering?:fool3:
> 
> 
> 
> That's a very good question, I do it for a few reasons, it offers some protection for the cutter, it looks better and I made it so that's important and the main reason is it also reduces the size of the tip allowing better access in tight areas. Tapered to a rounded point is better than a big wad of metal at the end. On the square cutters its important to keep the cutter from rotating when pulling or pushing to the sides.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Roger that. actually i was referring to the backside relief cut on the handle end. my metal skills aren't.:scratch_one-s_head:
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the handle tang it is ground to 1/2" round, the tool width at the wide part is about 1 1/2" wide for stability. ever try to stick a square peg in a round hole 1/2" tang = 1/2" hole, if I left it square it would have needed at least a 5/8" hole.


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## woodtickgreg

rbaccus, Oh now i understand No not really, other than chips maybe getting caught between the cutter and the steel, and what you said about the looks, if I make something I want it to look good even if it's a tool, It might weaken the pocket a little. I just believe that you should always try to make things the best you can without any shortcuts. Look if I can do it anyone here can do it also:yes:


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> rbaccus, Oh now i understand No not really, other than chips maybe getting caught between the cutter and the steel, and what you said about the looks, if I make something I want it to look good even if it's a tool, It might weaken the pocket a little. I just believe that you should always try to make things the best you can without any shortcuts. Look if I can do it anyone here can do it also:yes:



Couldn't agree more! Most of us spend more time than we care to admit in our shops () and we do need somewhere to draw inspiration for a design...:yes::i_dunno:


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## SlickSqueegie

Thanks Greg, I love the Tool. Nice job all around! Its bigger than my lathe bed! now I have an excuse to upgrade!


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## woodtickgreg

SlickSqueegie said:


> Thanks Greg, I love the Tool. Nice job all around! Its bigger than my lathe bed! now I have an excuse to upgrade!


Wow, it really does look funny laying on the bed! Now that you have used a chisel with a longer handle a little do you think you like it? I guess it's time for the bed extension


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## woodtickgreg

So here's some pictures of the finished hollower with the curly oak handle and carbide insert installed, ready to go. The handle is about 15" and blade length about 9"[attachment=2953][attachment=2954][attachment=2955][attachment=2956][attachment=2957]


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## Dane Fuller

Greg,
That is awesome! You did a fine job. I've been reading this thread and I'm very impressed with your metal fab skills.


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## SlickSqueegie

Man that turned out awesome! Excellent work Greg. That curly oak was waiting for that tool. I really need to get in good with the wife.


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## woodtickgreg

SlickSqueegie said:


> Man that turned out awesome! Excellent work Greg. That curly oak was waiting for that tool. I really need to get in good with the wife.


The wife says start kissing up now, gifts are welcome, she said she has a long memory. sounds like bs to me!:rofl2:


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## Mike Mills

Greg, those really came out stupendous. 

I have had the materials lying around for a while and have now been properly inspired to get busy working on them.


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## woodtickgreg

Mike Mills said:


> Greg, those really came out stupendous.
> 
> I have had the materials lying around for a while and have now been properly inspired to get busy working on them.


That's great to hear mike, I have had a blast making these chisels! The whole point of this thread was to show people that if you can work wood you can work metal:yes: It involves all the things we already do like measuring, marking, cutting to a line, drilling holes, taping threads, grinding, filing, sanding, all the same just a little slower, and when you work metal you can skip the liquid finish! I'm not done making these yet, I plan to make mid size and mini's out of 3/8 stainless bar stock. All new turning tools on the cheap and I get the fun of making them and working with my hands. Of course not until I finish the orders for the hollowers first.


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## woodtickgreg

I have noticed that this thread has had over 800 views, wow, There must be some interest in making your own chisels. I hope that some of you have tried this and had fun doing it. I would like to see what some of you have made and maybe some different variations. We have a ton of turners here, come on show us what you have done.:yes:


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## woodtickgreg

So now I have had a chance to use these tools in a few different ways and I am very pleased with how they work! The round carbide tool works very well for bowls and spindles, the ultimate test for it was hollowing the fbe vessel in another post, shaping the cove was easy and very quick, I was able to extend about 8" off of the rest and with the 19" handle just muscled my way to the bottom! I did get some chatter and vibration on the last couple of inches but not unmanageable for extending that far off of the rest. The hollower imprest me the most, I was able to do things with it that I didn't think it would do. It is very stable if held on the wide flat of the tool, and supriseingly I was able to extend it all the way to the handle and still have controll albeit with a little muscle at the bottom of the cut. Undercutting the top of the vessel was effortless and produced continueus shavings, cut quickly. these tools make me wonder what they could do if I made a captured hollowing rig for them? I can't begin to tell you how rewarding it is to make a tool and have them perform so well! I am now able to do things that I couldn't before I made these, which is why I did it. It just shows what can be done with shop made tools. These have become my favorite tools, not because I made them, but because they work so well. I wonder what the other members that have bought them from me think of them?


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## kweinert

woodtickgreg said:


> These have become my favorite tools, not because I made them, but because they work so well. I wonder what the other members that have bought them from me think of them?



Well, I've not used it yet - but now that I have access to a lathe with a longer bed there's an ash branch sitting there just waiting to get turned into a handle. It's about 4" in diameter so I should be able to get a good handle out of it once you account for the vagaries of natural wood. The handle will end up being 22 - 23 inches long.

I'm hoping to get that done some time in the next week or two, although deadlines and being out of town on business may delay that more than I'd like.


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## BarbS

woodtickgreg said:


> So now I have had a chance to use these tools in a few different ways and I am very pleased with how they work! The round carbide tool works very well for bowls and spindles, the ultimate test for it was hollowing the fbe vessel in another post, shaping the cove was easy and very quick, I was able to extend about 8" off of the rest and with the 19" handle just muscled my way to the bottom! I did get some chatter and vibration on the last couple of inches but not unmanageable for extending that far off of the rest. The hollower imprest me the most, I was able to do things with it that I didn't think it would do. It is very stable if held on the wide flat of the tool, and supriseingly I was able to extend it all the way to the handle and still have controll albeit with a little muscle at the bottom of the cut. Undercutting the top of the vessel was effortless and produced continueus shavings, cut quickly. these tools make me wonder what they could do if I made a captured hollowing rig for them? I can't begin to tell you how rewarding it is to make a tool and have them perform so well! I am now able to do things that I couldn't before I made these, which is why I did it. It just shows what can be done with shop made tools. These have become my favorite tools, not because I made them, but because they work so well. I wonder what the other members that have bought them from me think of them?



This is exciting. I'm So glad I bought one from you. You wouldn't believe what i was hollowing with prior to this purchase. You talk about a Fight to go in seven inches! Thank you for making these. Those of us with no metal skills or tools are very willing to follow you around!


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## woodtickgreg

kweinert said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> These have become my favorite tools, not because I made them, but because they work so well. I wonder what the other members that have bought them from me think of them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I've not used it yet - but now that I have access to a lathe with a longer bed there's an ash branch sitting there just waiting to get turned into a handle. It's about 4" in diameter so I should be able to get a good handle out of it once you account for the vagaries of natural wood. The handle will end up being 22 - 23 inches long.
> 
> I'm hoping to get that done some time in the next week or two, although deadlines and being out of town on business may delay that more than I'd like.
Click to expand...

Atta boy ken, 19" to 20" will be a good length!


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## woodtickgreg

This is exciting. I'm So glad I bought one from you. You wouldn't believe what i was hollowing with prior to this purchase. You talk about a Fight to go in seven inches! Thank you for making these. Those of us with no metal skills or tools are very willing to follow you around!
[/quote]
Barb, yours is all done and packaged up, I will ship tomorrow and pm you when shipped and let you know what the shipping cost was. When you remove the screw that holds the cutter on for replacement or sharpening, put a little grease on the threads so the dissimaler metals don't corrode together. Barb I truely believe that any wood worker can do this if they take their time and think it through. The process is not very much different than working wood, Just a little slower, it would also be a little easier with cold rolled steel instead of stainless, but I like stainless. It gives me great joy to provide tools to my friends here at wood barter. I also plan to make mid and mini size tools, square and round.


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## BarbS

[/quote]
Barb, yours is all done and packaged up, I will ship tomorrow and pm you when shipped and let you know what the shipping cost was. When you remove the screw that holds the cutter on for replacement or sharpening, put a little grease on the threads so the dissimaler metals don't corrode together. Barb I truely believe that any wood worker can do this if they take their time and think it through. The process is not very much different than working wood, Just a little slower, it would also be a little easier with cold rolled steel instead of stainless, but I like stainless. It gives me great joy to provide tools to my friends here at wood barter. I also plan to make mid and mini size tools, square and round.
[/quote]

I have been lamenting my mini-tools getting too short for my grinder wheels/platform (they're from Grizzly and not good steel, and are the first set I did my learning curve/sharpening on) and thinking I'll miss the short handles on them. So I'll be in line when you get some minis done!


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## woodtickgreg

There seems to be a lot of interest in making these chisels lately and a lot of new members here so I thought I would kinda bump this thread so others may see it for comparisons sake. Also for the tools I make and sell it shows people what they are getting and can expect from me.
My methods are not the only way to do things, just a way, I use what I have available to me. If I had access to a machine shop I would do things differently, but most of us are hobbiest and this is how I do it for now. I do have a posting for hollowers for sale in the classified section if any one is interested, only a couple left.


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