# Pentrcryl



## eaglea1

This has probably come up here many times, but being relatively 
new, I have to ask. 
Has anyone used the pentracryl stabilizing resin in a vacuum chamber
and if so, what were your results? 
Thanks


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## Final Strut

great question. One that I have pondered as well. I will be waiting with you for feedback.


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## Wildthings

subscribing


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## hobbit-hut

I did a little research on this and find it very interesting. They have several products that might be of value. One they call wood juice. It is for wood that has had some drying time already I'm going to order some tomorrow after talking with them. It seems there is no need to put it in a toaster. The Pentrcryl is for green wet wood and reduces the drying time by around 1/3. Might work good with drying wood and burls that are fresh cut
I think I'll get both and see what happens. Thanks for bringing attention to this.:thanx:


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## Kevin

I have used both pentacryl and PEG but never in a vacuum chamber. I don't think it would offer any benefit over resin. I still have some of both maybe I'll tinker with it some.


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## eaglea1

Kevin said:


> I have used both pentacryl and PEG but never in a vacuum chamber. I don't think it would offer any benefit over resin. I still have some of both maybe I'll tinker with it some.


Thanks to everyone for their input. I'm the type that likes to come up with something new and this proves to be a challenge as well. 
I know that I can purchase the resins that are already out there, but this is kinda like a hunt for me. I enjoy looking for an equal or better mouse trap so to speak. I could probably have bought gallons of TK90 or Cactus juice by now with all the money I have sunk into this project, but that's what drives me I guess. I can't wait to see what you come with Kevin.


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## jetcn1

eaglea1 said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have used both pentacryl and PEG but never in a vacuum chamber. I don't think it would offer any benefit over resin. I still have some of both maybe I'll tinker with it some.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone for their input. I'm the type that likes to come up with something new and this proves to be a challenge as well.
> I know that I can purchase the resins that are already out there, but this is kinda like a hunt for me. I enjoy looking for an equal or better mouse trap so to speak. I could probably have bought gallons of TK90 or Cactus juice by now with all the money I have sunk into this project, but that's what drives me I guess. I can't wait to see what you come with Kevin.
Click to expand...


What would you be saving? That stuff is $ 60.00 a gallon and will not stabilize your wood .

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


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## BangleGuy

I have tried Pentacryl in a vacuum chamber and I wasn't able to get it to dry once the wood was infused. It seemed to stay a little oily for quite a while (weeks, and even at oven temps). Plus it didn't harden up the wood. I have a half used bottle in my shop that will probably go to the recycle center someday. Seems like a worthless product, IMHO. Anchor Seal is much better for sealing wet wood, stabilizing resin is much better for stabilizing.


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## hobbit-hut

I think Bangle Guy is correct. I talked to the manufacturer today and ask a bunch of questions. They did not recomend the product for pen or knife blanks as a way to harden them. If you did use the product on wood and later after it was dry wanted to use a resin to harden they are going to get back to me on that question after talking to thier tech. person. One thing they did mention is that they are also working on a resin for stab. like the ones avaiable now but it's not ready for market at this time and it's a work in progress.


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## eaglea1

BangleGuy said:


> I have tried Pentacryl in a vacuum chamber and I wasn't able to get it to dry once he wood was infused. It seemed to stay a little oily for quite a while (weeks, and even at oven temps). Plus it didn't harden up the wood. I have a half used bottle in my shop that will probably go to the recycle center someday. Seems like a worthless product, IMHO. Anchor Seal is much better for sealing wet wood, stabilizing resin is much better for stabilizing.


Thanks Bangle, this is exactly what I was looking for.


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## AustinTom

I have started a couple threads related to turning a large bowl from green wood and then wanting to speed up drying. I applied Pentacryl right after rough turning, covered the bowl with paper and left it sit two weeks. I have been very disappointed in the results so far. Upon taking the paper off, several cracks had already appeared. I applied more Pentacryl and a day later the uncovered bowl had more cracks. My dehumidifier arrived yesterday and I put it in a closed room with the bowl. Today still more cracks. I have now coated the bowl with Anchorseal. Maybe Pentacryl speeds up drying but it sure hasn't stabalized anything. I got pointed to Pentacryl from an article I found on the web related to turning green wood. His description of the purpose of Pentacryl matches the bottle but he recommends painting it on instead of soaking it, which is what I did.


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## brown down

i have had very good success with a product called seal it green, i have had little to no cracking only a little warping with bowls, but they are rough turned so after a few days i keep checking the moisture content and finish turing them and no warping or cracking, maybe i am just lucky :i_dunno:


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## AustinTom

brown down said:


> i have had very good success with a product called seal it green, i have had little to no cracking only a little warping with bowls, but they are rough turned so after a few days i keep checking the moisture content and finish turing them and no warping or cracking, maybe i am just lucky :i_dunno:



I did a quick search on Seal It Green and found they have a range of products for differant purposes. Which one did you use?


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## Kevin

brown down said:


> i have had very good success with a product called seal it green, i have had little to no cracking only a little warping with bowls, but they are rough turned so after a few days i keep checking the moisture content and finish turing them and no warping or cracking, maybe i am just lucky :i_dunno:



I've experimented with SIG too but they sent such a small sample it's hard for me to determine if I like it. The prices are astronomical so it would have to work wonders for me to want to use it. Jeff, maybe you could start a thread about it and show some samples of stuff you applied it to, and describe your results? I know time is hard to come by but if you ever get a rainy day . . . .


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## brown down

Kevin said:


> brown down said:
> 
> 
> 
> i have had very good success with a product called seal it green, i have had little to no cracking only a little warping with bowls, but they are rough turned so after a few days i keep checking the moisture content and finish turing them and no warping or cracking, maybe i am just lucky :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've experimented with SIG too but they sent such a small sample it's hard for me to determine if I like it. The prices are astronomical so it would have to work wonders for me to want to use it. Jeff, maybe you could start a thread about it and show some samples of stuff you applied it to, and describe your results? I know time is hard to come by but if you ever get a rainy day . . . .
Click to expand...

i could do that, working crazy hours right now, well not the hours the drive.. I have some left over and will start a thread soon, i have to have green wood for it to work, i think some of the stuff i have is green enough. the other stuff they make is meant for dry wood and goes a long long way! but is $100 a gallon but i am still on my first gallon of that, still have about 3/4 of it left i can send you some of that to tinker around with if you want

as soon as I get a chance i will start it up..


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## Kevin

No need to send any - I am more interested in reading about your results so I don't have to do the tinkering.  I trust your judgment enough to order some if I like what I read. Thanks.


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## AustinTom

I posted this earlier but I think it got overlooked so here it is again.

I did a quick search on Seal It Green and found they have a range of products for differant purposes. Which one did you use? 

As an additional question, based on your experience which product would you use for a rough turned large (20"x5") bowl from very green walnut?


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## Mike Jones

conversations regarding pentacryl gleand from Woodturners Resource 

http://www.woodturnersresource.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?action=search2


If the system will not allow this material bulk loaded from another forum, at least you can go there and enter a search query for yourself.
There were about twenty posters, only a few reported "satisfactory" results...none were jumping up and down about it. And a few that were sorely disappointed. 

Hope this helps

Mike Jones


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## brown down

AustinTom said:


> I posted this earlier but I think it got overlooked so here it is again.
> 
> I did a quick search on Seal It Green and found they have a range of products for differant purposes. Which one did you use?
> 
> As an additional question, based on your experience which product would you use for a rough turned large (20"x5") bowl from very green walnut?



i have only messed around with smaller bowls i can't turn that large on my lathe!!

I sent you a pm 
here is a youtube link which is exactly how i found this company but will still start a thread up to show everyone how this stuff works
I used the total wood mix they have and also have the cutek extreme but that is meant for dry wood but that stuff goes a long long way and last like you wouldn't believe. i have a cutting board that gets used a lot and only has 2 coats on it. 

now don't get me wrong its still going to warp on you a bit, just doesn't crack or at least i haven't had any issues yet!! thats the key word " YET" with this stuff and would hate for you to ruin that hard work based on expectations from my results. your supposed to put it outside and let it dry!! I didn't put it in the sun, it was hot when i started using it, but i did drop a bowls mc from about 15-18 down to 7-9 by microwaving it for about a min at a time after using this stuff and no issues what so ever. just warped a little!

but you have to finish turning it anyway so for me it doesn't matter!

stuff isn't cheap at all i highly suggest giving them a call, they are super friendly people!
[video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaH40L36TO8[/video]


http://sealitgreen.com/cid-5-1/total-wood-sealants.html


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## ghost1066

I got some Wood Juice to try and stabilize some blanks I have. It does make them harder to a point but here is the problem, according to the FAQS it can take up to 3 YEARS to dry. Really? I ain't waiting that long. It said to store out of light in a cool area and do not apply any heat. I used up what I had and that will be the last of it for me.


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## Mark.

hobbit-hut said:


> I did a little research on this and find it very interesting. They have several products that might be of value. One they call wood juice. It is for wood that has had some drying time already I'm going to order some tomorrow after talking with them. It seems there is no need to put it in a toaster. The Pentrcryl is for green wet wood and reduces the drying time by around 1/3. Might work good with drying wood and burls that are fresh cut
> I think I'll get both and see what happens. Thanks for bringing attention to this.:thanx:


I have been using Pentacryl now for about two years now. My findings have been that it works great for green wood stablizeing & hold the cracking to a minimum. The green wood stablizeing formula also works great on salvage wood, that has been retrieve from Rivers and or all body's of water.


Final Strut said:


> great question. One that I have pondered as well. I will be waiting with you for feedback.


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## Mark.

I have been using Pentacryl for close to two years. Overall I have about a 90% succes when I soak my green rough turned bowls. Now that same % doesn't hold true for green Burl. On all the Burl I have soaked I have yet to pull & dry a Burl bowl that hasn't had lots of cracks, all of the cracks are short, about 3/4". On Oak, I have tried soaking verses not soaking. The results are a no brainier. The 3 oak bowl I have used as a genie pig, Pentacryl definitely is the way to go. While using it on Black Walnut, & Down Home Black Cherry, the % gets better, 95% or better. Pentacryl calls for each one inch, soak 24 hours. I leave them submerged over 48 hours per inch. Hope I didn't off track to much

Reactions: Informative 1


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