# Question Of The Week... ( 2016 Week 15 )



## ripjack13 (Apr 10, 2016)

*What is your finish method/technique? What finish do you use specifically and do you also use polish to finish? 
{e.g. - Right now I'm using both friction polish and CA and finishes, depending on what I'm wanting for a finish on the pen I'm making. However, I'm also currently exploring other finishing options, such as poly or lacquer for a finish that will possibly have longer longevity.} 
Thanx sprung!*


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## CWS (Apr 10, 2016)

I use CA on pens and bottle stopper. I like to use oils on my calls and bowls. Tung, walnut, true and shellac.


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## Brink (Apr 10, 2016)

I don't have a set finish or technique. Usually brushed, sometimes padded.
Oil based poly is my go to for durability. My tables might fail, but the finish doesn't.
Lately, been using Waterlox. Nice satin finish, seems tough. Been using it on tool handles, too.
BLO and RLO, for nice warm finish. Easy to apply and repair.
Shellac. Sticks to everything, even silicone contaminated surfaces. Dries fast. Can speed up a project with a few coats of shellac, then a coat of poly over it.

Reactions: Like 1 | Great Post 1


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## Blueglass (Apr 10, 2016)

MOst of the time TRuoil with lots of sanding in between. People see my drum and ask how many coats. I tell them I don't know, I don't count, I am just looking for the right final coat. For very oily woods I have done shellac sealer with lacquer, but recently found sealer followed by Truoil works better for me.

Oh I apply Truoil in thin coats with just my finger. Shellac with a pad.

Reactions: Like 1 | Great Post 1


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## manbuckwal (Apr 10, 2016)

CA

Reactions: Funny 1


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## rocky1 (Apr 10, 2016)

I usually finish with a kiss and a hug, she gets all grumpy if I just roll over and go to sleep!

Reactions: Funny 9


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 10, 2016)

10,000 variations of finish available so why just pick one? It all depends on the project, was it turned, flat work, a detailed fretwork piece on the scroll saw? All will require something different. And then you get into is it for out side, inside, daily use or just a show piece. And what about wood species, open pored needing a filler, oily wood, etc? My go to is usually an oil of some form or another, usually blo or pure tung oil followed by thinned topcoats of oil based poly. For tables and chairs I start with a pure tung or blo, or a blend of both, sometimes thinned with mineral spirits to get the grain to pop. Then maybe a sealer coat or 2 of dewaxed shellac to seal the pores. Then many coats of wipe on oil poly, usually a blend that I mix in house, rubbed between coats with Liberon 0000 steel wool. Most times the finish takes me longer than the project but is just as rewarding. I have not yet delved into spraying but I really want to and probably will when the right project arises.
And I have been using water based poly more and more. And I usually use water based poly for formulated for floors as it has a higher solids content and offers a little more protection." WBP" as I will now refer to it as is not well suited for use out doors or for moist environments, but for interior use I am really liking it. I have started to use it on interior doors and trim, my plan is to re do all the trim in my house and just clear coat it all with satin wbp. I love it for trim, goes on looking like skim milk, you know it's dry when it turns clear, dries to re coat in a couple of hours, great to apply indoors in the winter when all the windows and doors are closed as there is no odor, not flash flamable either! It dries so fast that runs and sags are reduced too! This is what I would really like to learn how to spray because it would be so fast to apply. Oh, and it cleans up with warm water!
We could go on and on about finishes, there are so many, and there really is no best finish.How about ca's, epoxies, resins, bar top coatings, etc. etc.

Reactions: Great Post 3


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## Sprung (Apr 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> {_e.g. - Right now I'm using both friction polish and CA and finishes, depending on what I'm wanting for a finish on the pen I'm making. However, I'm also currently exploring other finishing options, such as poly or lacquer for a finish that will possibly have longer longevity._}



Shoot, Marc, you took the words right out of my mouth! 

Marc quoted where I'm currently at on finishing pens and other small turnings. I'm exploring other finishing options to see if there's something out there that I like better. Have been happy with my finishes, but it's always good to explore and see about upping one's game, if possible.

As far as furniture goes, my favorite finish is 3 or 4 coats of Danish Oil with a top coat of a couple layers of paste wax. Did some samples with a variety of finishes and finish combinations last summer so I can pick one to use on the desk top I've got to get finished for my office.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Apr 10, 2016)

Marc didn't you say this week's question is mandatory for all members to answer fully and truthfully? Let Cody know . . . .

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Kevin (Apr 10, 2016)

My finishing is all over the map. I have not settled into one way for any one type of project. Sometimes my finishes look great, sometimes they look like a 3rd grader tripping on acid applied the finish.

Bonus answer. This morning when I checked my messages my coffee went all over my keyboard before I even sat down. I spent 30 minutes taking the keyboard apart out in the shop in my skivvies.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1 | Funny 3


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## ripjack13 (Apr 10, 2016)

Sprung said:


> Shoot, Marc, you took the words right out of my mouth!
> 
> Marc quoted where I'm currently at on finishing pens and other small turnings.



I had the first part of the question on my list of questions already, then I saw David's topic and thought it would make a great addition to it. @Graybeard 

Thanks fellas....

Reactions: Like 1


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## Brink (Apr 10, 2016)

Kevin said:


> My finishing is all over the map. I have not settled into one way for any one type of project. Sometimes my finishes look great, sometimes they look like a 3rd grader tripping on acid applied the finish.
> 
> Bonus answer. This morning when I checked my messages my coffee went all over my keyboard before I even sat down. I spent 30 minutes taking the keyboard apart out in the shop in my skivvies.



Pics?

Reactions: Funny 2


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 10, 2016)

Brink said:


> Pics?


 No thanks!!!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Kevin (Apr 10, 2016)

Brink said:


> Pics?



You can't keep calling me a winter lightweight either because my friend the sun was nowhere near up yet and it was in the mid 50s in the shop and I ain't kidding all I was wearing was my Tarzan outfit. My nuts were in my elbows. I have become an honorary yankee after that fiasco. I had my keyboard disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled quicker than I normally would have though I can tell you that much.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## David Hill (Apr 10, 2016)

My finish like my turning is in state of flux--I'm constantly learning & trying new things. I started with just shellac or lacquer friction polishes that I mixed and experimented a _lot._ Now I've settled into using mostly poly- both wop and pad applied. Also experimenting with using sanding sealer so finishes start more even. Really prefer to accentuate the grain so not everything will have a glossy shine. Still using lacquer-- reserved that for the lighter colored woods as poly tends to have a yellowish tinge then.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Mike1950 (Apr 10, 2016)

Kevin said:


> You can't keep calling me a winter lightweight either because my friend the sun was nowhere near up yet and it was in the mid 50s in the shop and I ain't kidding all I was wearing was my Tarzan outfit. My nuts were in my elbows. I have become an honorary yankee after that fiasco. I had my keyboard disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled quicker than I normally would have though I can tell you that much.



I think some of this is stuff that I am not sure we really need to know????

Reactions: Funny 1 | Sincere 1


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## justallan (Apr 10, 2016)

I'm still so new on pens and using CA that it's kind of touch and go every time. I go a few coats of thin, some sanding, a couple few medium, some sanding, some McGuires and buff it out.
For my crib boards I go with WOP until I have enough coats that I am happy.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 10, 2016)

BLO and then wipe on poly or just WOP and a wax for that so smooth to the touch feel that you want to keep touching it....


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## Mike1950 (Apr 10, 2016)

PS- I finish my pens by throwing them in the garbage when they stop working!!!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## ripjack13 (Apr 10, 2016)

Mike1950 said:


> PS- I finish my pens by throwing them in the garbage when they stop working!!!



Well if you used your lathe to make some nice ones, you could keep em instead of throwing them away...


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## Mike1950 (Apr 10, 2016)

ripjack13 said:


> Well if you used your lathe to make some nice ones, you could keep em instead of throwing them away...



You are kidding- I have not turned on lathe in 2 yrs- Just a dust collector.....

Reactions: Funny 1


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## barry richardson (Apr 11, 2016)

As said before, the sky's the limit on finishes, I've tried just about everything, and not completely satisfied with anything (on turnings). For flat work and furniture, it's hard to beat the ease of use and durability of poly. Still searching for the holy grail of finishes for my turnings...

Reactions: Like 1


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## Jim Beam (Apr 11, 2016)

Kevin said:


> sometimes they look like a 3rd grader tripping on acid applied the finish.


 
Wait, 3rd graders are tripping on acid these days? /shakes head/

Reactions: Funny 2


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