# Frame handle construction



## TRfromMT (Dec 28, 2019)

I bought a few kitchen knife blanks from Japan (ibuki blade blanks). I've never done this before. 2 of them are supposed to go up for auction to benefit my daughter's school, so I thought I better figure out all the tricks and make all the mistakes on the first one for me.

I am not happy with a couple details, mostly the blade finish. They come from Japan as forged with some kind of black oxide coating I tried to sand off then run through the stone tumbler at my work. The results were pretty lousy.

A few mistakes in the handle assembly, but I learned the tricks needed to get it the next time. Most of the mistakes were fixable along the way but had to take some creative thinking on the fly when the epoxy was setting up...

Anyway, sequence photos follow:

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 2


----------



## TRfromMT (Dec 28, 2019)

Comments, critiques, suggestions and questions are very much welcome. Thanks.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Echoashtoreth (Dec 29, 2019)

Curious why you didn't do a true hidden tang as it would have been stronger and could've contoured more for the hand... these typically have a round or hex handle... you would want to hand finish the blade w block and paper for the classic finish.


----------



## TRfromMT (Dec 29, 2019)

Echoashtoreth said:


> Curious why you didn't do a true hidden tang as it would have been stronger and could've contoured more for the hand... these typically have a round or hex handle... you would want to hand finish the blade w block and paper for the classic finish.



Thank you very much @Echoashtoreth . Long winded responses to follow:

Great question about the fully hidden tang - mostly because I only have a bench-top drill press and doing a proper hidden tang is both beyond my tools and my personal capability. I have done one hidden tang and I could not get the handle centerline and the blade perfectly lined up. Also, quite frankly, I am not great at getting solid block handles perfectly symmetrical. My trick there is to do the contours (from the top "wasteline") when the slabs are off the knife. I get them exactly the same thickness, measuring with calipers, at 5 or 6 points along the length exactly the same thickness before glue-up. This ensures the symmetry after the fact, something that both drives me nuts and is personally pretty hard for me.

Also, simply because I wanted to try this style.

I might debate the block being stronger than the laminated approach. If you or I could separate these with anything other than a 2# hammer, I'd be surprised. A single block may be stronger, but in a kitchen knife, it's a moot point. The blade flexes before the handle ever will. It's no hard-use, tactical/hunter we're talking here.

Good comment about the contouring. That was one of my mistakes... The contouring was based on probably way too much research - far more opinions out there than was helpful at the time. The contouring is one area I had to compromise on because, if you look at the slot I cut for the tang, I made it way to generous (I cut on the outside of my tracing lines). This plan was for a slimmer handle, but when I made that big, sloppy cutout I realized I'd be into the slot if I ground away too much. I plan to do better on that next time. This contour is very comfortable for my larger hands, but my wife or a typical mom would likely find it too large. I will fix that next time. For this one, being my test mule, I just did a quick chamfer, and it is actually pretty comfy. It is nice in both a full handed grip, or a further forward pinch grip. Who knew...?

Surprisingly, the balance point on this is exactly at the heel of the blade where it meets the tang. I think it came out perfect in spite of the too-big handle. But the next blades are smaller so a smaller/slimmer handle is in order.

I need to do the next two knife blanks and need to figure out the steel finishing. I normally never touch the steel, working on finished blanks. This will also be new for me. I have tumbled hunting knife blanks before with good success, but those were previously completely finished. These clearly are not.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Echoashtoreth (Dec 29, 2019)

Ok Tony i thought maybe your interface plate played a part in the final handle shape....

I dont know who will end up owning these but i do knives for a few local chefs and "strength" points for a cooking knife are different than for a hunter.... one thing the pros like about the Japanese style handles (vs the full tang) is that there are fewer joints to collect bacteria, moisture or weaken over time with all the washing... even without going in a dishwasher these knives see a LOT of heat and soap.... 

i have done a similar handle like this for a ceramic blade - i did the recess in one side so it was a flush fit- with a good fit on the tang cap there were no seams at all... 

On the hidden tang did you drill undersize and try to burn in to get a tight fit? That works sometimes....


----------



## TRfromMT (Dec 29, 2019)

@Echoashtoreth 
I had never seen or heard of the burn in technique at the time. I simply drilled a few over-sized holes in a row, letting the guard cover them up. End result was merely "meh..." and a critical eye can see the centerline are askew...

I don't have a top down picture, but this is the knife.

Reactions: Like 2 | EyeCandy! 1


----------



## Echoashtoreth (Dec 29, 2019)

Lol i think hidden tangs have rounded handles so we cannot over-obsess about those lines... 

That said material combinations are something to keep in mind when making these - some woods dont drill or burn easily...

Reactions: Like 1


----------

