# Is it dryenough yet?



## justallan (Mar 24, 2015)

I have a couple slabs that I've stashed away that I want to make something out of and am wondering if you all think they are dry enough yet.
They are flamed box elder burl about 2x18x36, or there about, and are at 14%.
Do you all think they are safe to surface and use?
If you need any more info, please ask.


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## Schroedc (Mar 24, 2015)

Are you turning them or using for flat work? Anything I've had at 14% after getting into a dry place wants to move and check. Unless it's always going to be in a place with the same humidity I'd probably want more dry before using except for turning, then I'd rough out and let dry the rest of the way. Are they stored outside? If so you might have some trouble getting them to dry down too much further.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## TimR (Mar 24, 2015)

Allan, without knowing what you want to do, harder to say. That kind of moisture content seems about right for turning a hollow form or vase, as long as you maintain even wall thicness into the base. I like them a little on the wetter side, to minimize tearout. the biggest issue is if you can't finish in one turning, keep it misted with waster and wrap in paper, but better if it gets done quickly, ie a day. Minimize excessive sanding that heats things up, wait to final sand a few weeks after done. That's my approach, YMMV.


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## justallan (Mar 24, 2015)

One is going to be a clock with the company name and brand.
I have them sticker stacked and sealed out in the barn in a dark room.
What would be a good MC to shoot for if I want to do flat work with them?
Thanks in advance.


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## Tclem (Mar 24, 2015)

I think you need to send them to me and I'll turn them and let you know

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Tony (Mar 24, 2015)

@Kevin would probably know better than anybody.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## TimR (Mar 24, 2015)

Hmmm, I'd want drier than that for stable flatwork. You need at least a small kiln to boost things.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## justallan (Mar 24, 2015)

@Tclem Well Tony, I surely would you know, but with the sealer I just cant get the stamps to stick.

Reactions: Funny 8


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 24, 2015)

justallan said:


> if you all think they are dry enough yet


I think they're dry enough to dry a little more...

Reactions: Funny 4


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## justallan (Mar 26, 2015)

What is a good MC to shoot for on slabs that I want to make a clock or table out of? I much rather let them sit awhile longer than strip the sealer off and have them crack all to heck. Any help is appreciated.


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## manbuckwal (Mar 26, 2015)

I would say 10% or less, less would be better . That being said, you may or may not be able to reach that air drying in your area without "drying" them in a kiln . Not sure how big your clock is going to be, but you could cut it to length and dry in an old oven or perhaps build you a small kiln . @Treecycle Hardwoods might have some ideas ?

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Mar 26, 2015)

justallan said:


> I have a couple slabs that I've stashed away that I want to make something out of and am wondering if you all think they are dry enough yet.
> They are flamed box elder burl about 2x18x36, or there about, and are at 14%.
> Do you all think they are safe to surface and use?
> If you need any more info, please ask.


Is it waxed and reading 14% I have found that AS will skew my moisture meter. If it is unwaxed and reading 14% I would say you should wait a little longer. In my neck of the woods EMC is 10-12% and that will be the best I could accomplish with just air drying alone unless we had several weeks of really dry weather come thru then it might dip below 10% for MC. If you know what your local EMC is that will give you a good idea when it is dry enough to work with.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Kevin (Mar 26, 2015)

What's not being discussed is what will be the average RH will where it'll be placed in service. I don't know what your RH is right now, but if it's 75% then your MC of 14% is EMC and will not dry further unless you force it out (with a kiln). If you build it now with 14% MC and this winter the RH in the space where it goes into service goes down to a typical heated home RH of say 25 to 30% then the MC in the wood will drop to around 5% and the piece will likely crack pretty badly. 

I would try to get it down to 8 or 9% and then build with it. That gives it less movement either way once placed into service and a better chance to stay together.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Final Strut (Mar 26, 2015)

Treecycle Hardwoods said:


> In my neck of the chicken lip pies



Your neck of the what?!?!?

Reactions: Funny 3


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## steve bellinger (Mar 27, 2015)

Allan with these being fairly small, I would bring them in the house, weigh them and check weight till they stopped loosing weight. I do this with my turned pieces all the time and I know a lot of folks do the same thing. Also if you have a microwave big enough to hold these, don't be afraid to use it. If using a MW "DON'T" try drying them to fast. I also do this in conjunction with the weight thing.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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