# Multi Axis Goblet



## trc65 (Nov 22, 2020)

I was the one to suggest everyone post a little tutorial for their multi axis project, so I'll post this here so as to not clutter the challenge thread.

Start with a blank that is long enough for the stem and base of tyhe goblet. Diameter needs to be a little larger than the intended base. This is using three axis, so I used a compass to find the two needed besides the center.





Mount on the center axis, round the stock, and cut the center down to about 1 1/8" or so. Cut a tenon on the end to be used for the base, and make sure to leave enough material above the tenon for the base. Also leave some extra on the top to cut a little cove to mount the goblet. Put a line somewhere near the center for the division between the cove and bead elements.

This project uses parallel axis, so move the blank off center to one set of axis.




Crank the lathe up to around 3000 rpm and start cutting. Bevel contact is very important. Start on one end or the other, and work slowly. Keep a sharp edge/division on both sides of the pencil line. Don't cut so deep that you stop cutting air.





Making clean cuts in the center to leave a sharp edge is important, as is maintaining clean cuts along the top and bottom. If you cut a cove first, cut a bead next.





After you get your shapes cut, try to clean them up as best you can to save lots of time hand sanding. This was one I was just cutting to show pictures, so I didn't spend any time on cleanup.

When you get done on this axis, you should have something like this.





Now it's time to shift to the other outside axis.

Continued in next post.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Way Cool 2


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## woodtickgreg (Nov 22, 2020)



Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## trc65 (Nov 22, 2020)

When you shift axis, it is very helpful, maybe even necessary, to have a bright light to see how much to cut.

In this picture, you can see the solid appearing area on the top outside. I highlighted it in pink lines. This is what you have to remove to get sharp edges on the stem. You'll notice you are cutting complimentary shapes to those from the first axis. While you are cutting, stop the lathe periodically to check your progress and make sure you aren't cutting too deeply. This is really important as you work on the center transition.











When you've gotten the stem section as clean as you can, focus on the transition areas at top, middle and bottom to save yourself lots of time sanding. If you need to, you can shift back and forth between axis to refine and clean up. Just be aware, that you need to be gentle with tail stock pressure.

When you get done, it should look something like this.





Now, mount it in your Chuck to narrow the top and cut a recess for the goblet. When you start cutting the recess at the top with the tail stock removed, be very, very gentle with your cuts. A catch at this point will probably cause an explosion. After you get the recess cut, bring the tail stock back in, and shape the base. I used a thin parting tool to undercut the base and part it.




Now, it's time for lots of sanding!





Hopefully, this helps you get started. Should also mention Barbara Dill is the one this project was copied from, and she has several writeup on this and other multi axis projects. I'll try to find links to her papers and post them here.


Here is the link to Barbara Dill's resource page, it has all here articles, books and videos. https://www.barbaradill.com/multi-axis-teaching-tools-book-papers-and-videos/

Reactions: Like 3 | Thank You! 1 | Way Cool 2


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## ripjack13 (Nov 22, 2020)

Nicely done sir. Very cool.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (Nov 24, 2020)

Thanks for the tutorial! Have not yet attempted one of these. Interesting how it turned out! Chuck

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## trc65 (Nov 24, 2020)

One other tip that just occurred to me. Dont leave a bunch of extra wood on the ends of your blank, just a lot of weight that will help launch it when you go off center axis.

Also, these were made in fairly soft elm. When I tried to make one in cherry, the steb center would not hold it when I went to cut on the second axis. The cherry was hard enough that it couldn't get a good bite at the very low tail stock pressure I had to use to keep it the blank from flexing. I launched it 5 different times at 3000 rpm before I gave up.  Don't know what the solution is for that problem, maybe a spur center with a larger hole drilled in the blank so the wedge point doesnt split the blank?


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## William Tanner (Nov 24, 2020)

Excellent point Tim. I’ll stick with softer wood.


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