# Mold Issues?



## justallan (Mar 3, 2015)

What do you do to prevent mold from starting on fresh sawn blanks? I sold a box of unsealed pen blanks and put the whole bunch in a plastic bag. I thought putting them in the plastic bag was the problem, but have since found a couple stacked face to face in my wood room that are trying to start molding also and a couple sealed caps are just barely looking like it too. What's the answer?
I think my biggest problems are the temp in my wood room downstairs is probably 65* and possibly the biggest problem is airflow. When I process wood I don't seal pen blanks and kind of pile/stack them on a shelf and have never had a problem, granted they are on the cool end of the room and are against a cold cement wall.
The couple pieces that I've found with mold I had used a handheld power planer on and they were stacked on a table right next to the door going into the rest of the house which stays open and I feel they are staying to warm and not getting the airflow on all sides that they should. Simple fix, get them on sticks away from each other.
The couple sealed caps that are just showing a little mold baffle me though. They are on a shelf against the cold cement wall, they are sealed and they have plenty of airflow.
Any input is greatly appreciated.


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 3, 2015)

http://woodbarter.com/threads/mold-ugh.16713/

Stickering and air flow helped. A dehumidifier helped me in the freezer big time

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## justallan (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm kind of leaning towards getting most of the wood out to the wood room in the barn or in an unheated utility room that I need to clean anyhow. It's only been 2 pieces of burl slab scrap and 2 small caps so far, I just want it figured out and took care of before there's a problem.


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## woodintyuuu (Mar 3, 2015)

allan in box elder burl surface mold is always an issue ,combined with trying not to dry it to quick which causes worse probs, but the temp and the airflow cerainly contribute. when i need to i shoot all pcs lightly with windex bottle full of bleachmixture or better yet lemon juice, light mist does the trick , but be sure to give um air from there man.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Nature Man (Mar 3, 2015)

Stickering and air are key. I have a stack of pine rough cut lumber that I had stored outside over the Winter and it got soaked because my tarps were insufficient. Had to temporarily move the stack into my garage (workshop) because mold was starting to grow. Will take a couple months on stickers to dry out, then I am going to mill. Mold is not your friend... Good luck to you. Chuck

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## justallan (Mar 3, 2015)

Cool. The couple that were stacked, I definitely see the issue in that, my bad. They now reside out in the pasture below the house, LOL.
The sealed caps are just barely showing any, but I'll be moving them to a place with more air flow.
Thanks for all the info.


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## eaglea1 (Mar 3, 2015)

I agree with Chuck, and stickering will be the best. I usually don't charge any extra for the mold..

Reactions: Funny 1


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## manbuckwal (Mar 3, 2015)

I actually encouraged mold once on a slab of fresh cut blonde buck eye by covering the face with mayonaise and letting it sit for six months. It worked and created some interesting coloring but man the bugs sure liked it too. I have since learned how to cut buck eye so that it colors itself. Like Cliff tho, I use a spray bottle usually w bleach if a piece starts molding .

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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