# Kevins chainsaw, Teardown and failure analysis, Pic heavy!



## woodtickgreg

I received Kevins saw in the mail last week and the weather was great here today, sunny and 70. A good day for some outdoor pics. Kevin said the saw died and that's all I knew so this is the process I go through when I don't know whats going on with the saw and why it won't run. The first thing I do is what I cal the drop test, no I don't drop the saw on the ground! I hold the starter rope and see how long it takes to drop under it's own weight. If it has good compression it will fall very slowly. This one went pretty quick, lets see why.

So Here we go, this is how I received the saw. First things I noticed, no paint on side cover, handle is broken probably from a tree falling on it and the safety interlock doesn't work, compression release button missing, and the muffler has been modded. Sorry kevin you asked for a professional opinion.




So the teardown begins, nice and oily under the clutch cover, that's good, means the oiler is working. See the missing compression release button. The clutch is not blue so it has not been run with the brake on or run low on oil and overheated. Good job Kevin.



So the next thing I look at is the air box and the air filter and carburator, I inspect the fuel lines-these looked good. Alcohol in the fuel today is causing major problems with anything rubber. It was pretty clean inside the air box, again good job here, an occasional blow out goes a long way in preventive maintenance. I have seen many saws fail from dirt ingestion or because of a plugged air filter. You can't see it in this picture but the intake horn on the carb is clean and no dust, that means the air filter sealed well.




And here is the air filter, again nice and clean inside and out.




Next I read the plug, this will tell you a lot. This one tells me it was running just a little rich and a little oily. Both are the way I like to run my saws. This is a testament as to why this saw has run so long and hard before a failure. A little more tan in color is acceptable, not white and ashy! That would mean too lean an air fuel mix and a poor carb adjustment.



Notice the oil on the threads, also a good sign. Also see the red wood chip next to the plug hole? My guess either cedar or fbe. LOL.




Time to pull the muffler and look inside the motor, this will tell a lot! You can look right into the cylinder and see the piston and rings and also the intake side of the cylinder before you even tear it down. It only takes a couple minutes and tells so much. Remember, I have already determined that it has low compression. Here the bolts are loosend and the muffler is loose. I also find these numbers in a few places on the saw, I suspect it was a rental saw at one time. Again, a testament to the toughness of a Huskvarna saw.




Muffler is off and I can already see bad things that I suspected. See how you can see the piston through the exhaust port.




This is a pretty good pic of the piston damage. It should be nice and smooth with no vertical lines or scratches. It isn't a full seizure so lets keep going and find out why it started to seize. Damage almost always is on the exhaust side of the cylinder, but many things can cause it. The exhaust side does run very hot. Remember a chain saw idles at what your lawn mower runs at full speed, they can typically run 10,000 to 12,000 rpm! Too much heat at this rpm or not enough oil or too much air can cause major melt downs.




More to come...................

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 2 | Great Post 2 | Way Cool 3 | Informative 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

And so we continue......
Next thing I want to do is get an external visual of the crank seals and remove the fly wheel in preparation for further tear down. Here is a typical problem with huskys, the wires fall out of the guides and the flywheel cuts them. Not a big deal but this repair was not a good one. The wire was tied on with small pieces of wire, that's was a good fix for the guides to hold the wire in place. But just wires twisted together and not even soldered? Not on my watch! I would never do something like this, poor workmanship. If you don't have time to fix it right the first time, when are you going to find time to fix it the second time?








Guys, pull your starters off once in a while and give em a blow out with compressed air. This is all about cooling!



I also found this wire pinched under the starter cover screw.



See the piece of rope below the saw? That is a high dollar piston stop,  I have been doing this for years without having to buy a special tool. I do use a lot of special tools but this is my favorite shop tool. It will never cause damage to a piston.



And this is how you use it, just stuff it into the spark plug hole and roll the piston to the top until it stops. This is necessary to remove the flywheel and clutch from the crank shaft.



The clutch side is a left hand thread, and so idiots like me don't screw it up they marked which way is off, LOL. Now they do make a special tool to remove the clutch but here is mine. A dull chisel and a hammer, give it a couple of wacks and she is off.



The basic components of the clutch, drum, expansion shoes, bearing, and rim sprocket. Good chainsaw clutches run replaceable rim sprockets. This is what drives the chain. Everything looks good here. No blueing or signs of overheating. Overheating the clutch can weaken the shoe springs and cause then to engage to early or not disengage, a safety issue.



These numbers mean it is a .325 chain and seven tooth.



Starting to show some signs of wear but not bad. New from the factory they are smooth all the way around the outside. The chain is starting to wear on this one but it's not to bad yet. A worn sprocket will eat chains and destroy bars. Sprockets are cheap, bars and chains aren't.

 
More coming............

Reactions: Like 1 | Great Post 1 | Way Cool 1 | Informative 2


----------



## woodtickgreg

And we continue.......

So here you see the oil pump driver, the black thing on the top left, it is driven by the clutch drum. This is a weird design, most saws are driven off of the crank and if the engine is running then it is pumping oil. This design only pumps when the clutch is engaged and the chain is spinning. The driver looks good.




The splines you see here are the driven gear of the oil pump. Crank seals look ok, but that's just a visual, you can't tell by looking at them if they are leaking. But you can see damage if there is any. 



Shop tip! Clean out the cap screws with a dental pic so the allen wrench or torx driver will seat all the way down.




Here you can see the oil pump and rubber feed line. A little dirty but not too bad. No one takes them down this far for cleaning except the pros. Notice the chain catcher on the bottom right is in place and intact, this can save your hand or the side cover if the chain throws.



Here's the special tools I use to remove the flywheel. Yes there are special tools for this too! But I am very skilled with small engine repair and I have removed thousands of them like this. I slightly wedge a screwdriver under the flywheel to apply a little upward pressure. Then I loosen the nut but don't remove it. I center a pointed punch on the crank shaft and give it a wack! The nut keeps you from damaging the threads on the crankshaft, IF YOU DAMAGE IT IT IS GARBAGE!!!!



See how the punch fits in the center of the crank and the nut supports the threads.



This flwheel has the timing key cast into it, this one is in good shape. If the key shears you buy an expensive flywheel.




Crank seal on the flywheel side looks good, just a little dirty.




Now this I don't like. See the silicone at the tip of the dental pick? Silicone as a gasket sealer? I never use the stuff unless it is a metal gasket which is rare on chainsaws. If I do use a sealer with metal gaskets I use three bond or yamabond sealer.



More to come.........

Reactions: Like 4 | Great Post 1 | Way Cool 1 | Informative 2


----------



## woodtickgreg

Continuing.....
Now that the flywheel and clutch are off it's time to pull the cylinder, I like a long t handle for this task. I also removed the handle bar for clearance.




Cylinder is off and now I am removing the piston wrist pin clip so I can remove the piston to check the rod bearings and the crank bearings. The ring is welded to the piston. 



Yes they make a special tool to remove the wrist pin, I have one but usually just use it to install tight pins. My special tool is a brass punch and a hammer. I cushion the piston with my left hand and drive the punch with light taps from the hammer so as not to cause any damage to the rod. Wacking the rod from the side is bad!!!




Now here is a little more failure analysis, no blueing on the piston from excessive heat. This is the view from the bottom of the piston.




No blueing on the wrist pin either, normal wear.




Pretty sever piston scoring. Most people and a lot of mechanics would say straight gas, air leak, improper mix. It wasn't any of these things, and I'll tell you why.




Intake side is nice and clean, no signs of dirt wear and the machine marks are still there.


Upper rod bearing looks good, no blueing. and nice and oily.




No signs of blueing or heat on the rod either. That's a good thing.




Serious metal transfer to the cylinder! That's the aluminum piston stuck all over the cylinder. But again no signs of heat at all or lack of lubrication.



More coming..........

Reactions: Like 4 | Great Post 2 | Way Cool 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

So here she is all torn down, If I rebuild here I will tear down further and do some cleaning before reassembly.



 
So what did I learn from this? Well the saw was well maintained for the most part. Good fuel with good oil was used. I can tell this by the lack of wear on the parts and the good coating of oil on the internal parts. Good job Kevin. The air filter was clean and wasn't leaking, no signs of wear on the intake side of the piston or cylinder. I don't think it was an air leak from a crank seal, base gasket, or carb boot. Why? Because this would have caused a lean condition and the saw would have run hot! I didn't see any signs of heat in the failed parts, not one bit! You see folks the parts don't lie, they tell the story. I did find that the base gasket was metal so the sealer that I was concerned with was the proper type, it was not silicone. So what caused this cold seizure as I call it. This particular failure is a rarity, I almost never see it........ the answer? It just wore out, now let me explain.
The oil that you mix with the gas lubricates all the moving parts. And most importantly it lubes the piston and cylinder with a film of oil. If I take a brand new piston, ring, and insert it into a dry cylinder it will barely move as the tolerances are so tight. Put a little oil on the parts and they slide freely on a film of oil. It's the film of oil that prevents the piston from melting to the cylinder wall at 12,000 rpm. So this saw has seen a lot of use, been cared for well, good quality oil was used, no air leaks. But the aluminum piston just wore over time on the hot exhaust side and the oil film went away as the tolerances opened up. This was just normal use. When this happened the metal transfer to the cylinder started to happen and the rest is history. It happens very fast. A cold seizure if you will.
Now the good news is this saw is a good candidate for a top end rebuild with a piston, cylinder kit. And I would fix the little things that a hack did to it.
I hope you all gained a little knowledge of chain saws from this little tear down and failure analysis. I,ve done thousands of them. 2 cycles are my specialty and they are going away.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 2 | Great Post 11 | Way Cool 1 | Informative 6


----------



## ripjack13

Makes me wanna tear apart my lil craftsman to see why it wont run...

Great thread Greg. Explanations for every pic. Thank you...

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


----------



## TimR

Outstanding teardown and analysis!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## barry richardson

Thanks for posting that Greg! I'm about 100% smarter on chainsaws than I was ten minutes ago, A fantastic tutorial...

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 4


----------



## manbuckwal

Great pics and explanations Greg, thanks !

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Nature Man

Very complete rundown! Thanks! Chuck

Reactions: Thank You! 1


----------



## Brink

Was the spark arrestor clear?


----------



## woodtickgreg

Brink said:


> Was the spark arrestor clear?


There was no spark arestor! The muffler was modded and essentially just an empty can, this thing musta been loud, hearing protection a must. Besides, the piston showed no signs of a plugged muffler anyway, it would have been black and discolored on the exhaust side and it wasn't.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Kevin

Greg that was a fantastic tutorial. Even though I knew I wasn't responsible for the failure it's still good to get the affirmation from a professional like you. 

I'm disappointed to learn that Murphy took some shortcuts when he put the saw together though. I know I won't have that worry with you. 

I guess I earned a butt chewing for not installing another spark arrestor when I knocked it out but it was during wet season and I planned on repairing it.

Thanks for taking my saw in and for the supremely excellent T&R and for sharing it with us. I'll get in touch with you privately so you can advise me on going forward.

Reactions: Like 2 | +Karma 2


----------



## ironman123

Thanks for that "tut" Greg. It was very educational to me. Makes me want to go take my neighbor's chainsaw apart.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Funny 1


----------



## Kevin

woodtickgreg said:


> So Here we go, this is how I received the saw. First things I noticed, no paint on side cover, handle is broken probably from a tree falling on it and the safety interlock doesn't work, compression release button missing, and the muffler has been modded. Sorry kevin you asked for a professional opinion.



Greg I documented the tree falling on the saw somewhere here on the forum. I posted pics too - I couldn't believe that it survived it man it scrunched the handle to the point where I thought there's no way it won't leak fuel but a few minutes after I rescued it from beneath the tree it began to come back to shape like a transformer. I never replaced the interlock because they're an unnecessary PITA anyway. The decomp button melted during the brief but intense radiant heat created during the meltdown. 

The guy I bought the saw from (Murphy over on arboristsite) did the muffler mod when he put the saw together. I did the muffler mod on my 372xp when I bought it new in 2006 and I think I did a better job than he did. Hey my 372 is still running strong!!! 

Murph did tell me he put a new piston in the saw but who knows. Maybe it was just a piston that was new to that saw.


----------



## davduckman2010

dam greg your one frikin master mechanicbut hell I already knew that great job great pics too

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> Greg I documented the tree falling on the saw somewhere here on the forum. I posted pics too - I couldn't believe that it survived it man it scrunched the handle to the point where I thought there's no way it won't leak fuel but a few minutes after I rescued it from beneath the tree it began to come back to shape like a transformer. I never replaced the interlock because they're an unnecessary PITA anyway. The decomp button melted during the brief but intense radiant heat created during the meltdown.
> 
> The guy I bought the saw from (Murphy over on arboristsite) did the muffler mod when he put the saw together. I did the muffler mod on my 372xp when I bought it new in 2006 and I think I did a better job than he did. Hey my 372 is still running strong!!!
> 
> Murph did tell me he put a new piston in the saw but who knows. Maybe it was just a piston that was new to that saw.


It's all good Kevin. I remember the thread where a saw got crushed under a tree but didn't remember if it was this one, LOL. Muffler mods are ok if the carbs are set right and good oil is run, just a bit loud is all. And he might have put a new piston in it, I still saw the machine marks on the intake side of the piston. The only thing I really didn't like about the repairs was the coil wire patch job. Nothing wrong with splicing a wire but at least shrink tube it or use liquid electrical tape. But if the cylinder wasn't replaced it was only a matter of time before the tolerances opened up again. I know it is kinda pricy but I always replace the cylinder if I have to replace the piston, very rare that I don't do both. A lot of guys may argue with me about that, but that is how I do it, the saw just runs better and last longer. I think about it like this, how much money did that saw make you, and when I rebuild a saw how much money will it make me. They pay for the parts and repairs ten times over easy. jmo


----------



## Kevin

I always solder too Greg. Splicing takes as long or longer. Don't worry about having a chinchy customer I want you to give her the full monty. I have always taken my tools seriuosly and expect to pay good money for good work. I don't need an estimate from you just fix her and let me know how much to pay because I know you'll definitely give me great work and will probably only charge me for good work. Or poor work if I'm lucky.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## JR Custom Calls

Kevin said:


> Or poor work if I'm lucky.


Maybe you'll get extremely lucky and get charged for @Tclem work... That dude sells pens cheaper than the kits for them lol

Reactions: Funny 3 | +Karma 1


----------



## Tclem

JR Custom Calls said:


> Maybe you'll get extremely lucky and get charged for @Tclem work... That dude sells pens cheaper than the kits for them lol


I just buy more wood lol


----------



## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> I always solder too Greg. Splicing takes as long or longer. Don't worry about having a chinchy customer I want you to give her the full monty. I have always taken my tools seriuosly and expect to pay good money for good work. I don't need an estimate from you just fix her and let me know how much to pay because I know you'll definitely give me great work and will probably only charge me for good work. Or poor work if I'm lucky.


I hope you don't want pics of the full monty!

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 3


----------



## woodintyuuu

barry richardson said:


> Thanks for posting that Greg! I'm about 100% smarter on chainsaws than I was ten minutes ago, A fantastic tutorial...


make that ten thousand %


----------



## woodtickgreg

So I have a pile of parts to install on Heidi so lets get busy.

I was able to find a good used take off handle for Heidi since it got broken when a tree fell on it. This handle is for a newer model saw, can you see the difference in it? Other than dirt. The difference is how it is vented, the new one doesnt use a hose to route the venting, and also the new one didn't have a provision for a return primer fuel line. The fix for that was easy, just drilled a small hole and pushed the return line in, easy peasy.
Now she will have a solid handle and the safety interlock will work.



I removed the old crank seals and installed new ones. Crank seals are extremely important on a 2 cycle engine! A part that only cost a few dollars can destroy a new engine if they fail and the seal lets air in to the crankcase. It will lean out the fuel air mix and cause a seizure.



I just use a deep well socket to clear the crankshaft and gently tap the new seal in. No special tools here. Be sure to grease the seal or apply some clean 2 cycle oil to the seal.



After I got the seals in I installed the new used handle and fuel tank assy.





Remember the damage wires for the ignition coil? Why try and do a hack repair of a wire when you can just replace the whole assembly for a few bucks. I chose to upgrade to new wires.




When installing the ignition coil the space between the coil and the flywheel is called air gap. It is usually between .006" and .010" or about the thickness of a business card. Insert the business card between the coil and the magnets on the flywheel, let the magnets suck the coil down onto the business card and then tighten the coil mounting screws, rotate the flywheel and remove the card and the gap is set, no special tools needed.




Air gap is set and the coil tightened down, flywheel is torqued down too. I like to have the flywheel installed before I install the piston and cylinder as it makes it easier to rotate the crank shaft.




This is the new aftermarket piston, cylinder, ring, rod bearing, and clips. It is Italian made and of good quality, not Chinese garbage. This is good stuff and as good as oem but less expensive.




The arrow on top of a 2 cycle piston always points to the exhaust side of the engine.




I install one wrist pin clip and make sure it is fully seated in the groove. I only compress the clip enough to get it in. Do not ever reuse the clips when changing the piston. A cheap little part can destroy an engine if it fails.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 3


----------



## woodtickgreg

I tried to get the camera to focus on the ring end gap but it wanted to focus on the background. What I am trying to show here is that the ring has little half round ends that fit onto a pin in the piston ring groove, the ring can only go on one way.






I always insert the ring in the cylinder bore and check for end gap.




This is a stock paper gasket and no sealer should be used, just coat the gasket with new clean 2 cycle oil. I coat everything with oil before reaseembly, piston, rings, upper rod bearing, cylinder. Lots of lube for reassembly and for first start up so it starts with plenty of oil.




This black piece is called an air conductor and is critical for proper cooling, do not leave it out! I replaced it with a new one as the old ones clips that hold the wires in place where bad. If the wires come out of the grooves the flywheel will eat them, that's what happened originally.




After the piston and cylinder install came the carb install and all the linkage and fuel lines.




When you look into the exhaust port this is how the piston should look, remember the scoring on the old one?




Next I installed the oil pump driver and the cover for the pump. She's starting to look like a saw again. See the elusive model and serial number tag? I had a hard time finding it because it was installed behind the handle and not on the front of the saw where most husky's have it.




This tag is very important. It will allow you to get the correct parts for your saw. There will be variations even with a same model from year to year and even in a serial number break. I work a parts counter and coming from a parts guy I can tell you how important these numbers are for getting the correct parts.




Clutch is reinstalled and the handle is being put back on. I am installing one of the vibration isolation and handle mount springs here.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 6


----------



## woodtickgreg

I cleaned the starter out and reinstalled that.




And here she is with the bar and chain and clutch/brake cover installed. All dressed up and fully clothed again.




This is where the compression release goes, I forgot to order one. New engine gets a new compression release as well.




She is all ready to be fired up and the carb adjusted as needed. I am just needing the compression release and a new spark plug. I can't believe I forgot those when I ordered parts.




Here's all the old parts. Just a little maintenance



She's almost ready to come home!

Reactions: Way Cool 6


----------



## Kevin

I won't even know her she's almost an all new girl! I feel like I'm cheating on her lol. Greg I know you know it but you tune a muff modded saw to where she 4 strokes at WOT at least that's what I did with Hilda 8 years ago when I modded her (did it myself) and she has been running wicked ever since. That brings me to another question is there anything I can do to check her condition? I have more hours on her probably (actually there's no doubt about it) than I put on Heidi. Should I pull themuffler and look at the cylinder wall? Anything else I can do or should I just run her til she drops?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> I won't even know her she's almost an all new girl! I feel like I'm cheating on her lol. Greg I know you know it but you tune a muff modded saw to where she 4 strokes at WOT at least that's what I did with Hilda 8 years ago when I modded her (did it myself) and she has been running wicked ever since. That brings me to another question is there anything I can do to check her condition? I have more hours on her probably than I put on Heidi. Should I pull themuffler and look at the cylinder wall? Anything else I can do or should I just run her til she drops?


I will tune her rich Kevin and run her a bit, you may have to retune the carb in Texas versus the Michigan air. Based on what I saw in the teardown and knowing how hard you run your saws you have done everything right. I would just run her till she drops like this one and then decide if you want to rebuild. That's what I do with my saws, just basic maintenance, air filters, blow the saw out with compressed air once in a while to clean it, fresh spark plug from time to time, good oil and fresh fuel with star tron. My old saying is if it ain't broke don't fix it, just maintain it.
P.S. I removed the limeter caps from the carb adjustment needle screws so the sky's the limit on carb adjustment. None of my saws have them anymore, lol.

Reactions: Like 2 | Thank You! 1


----------



## Kevin

Hilda is an older model non strato 372XP that you can't hardly get anymore that's why I was thinking of maybe doing a rebuild before something really bad happens. Although they're saying the 576 auto tune saws have all the bugs worked out and are pretty hot saws. Still, many of the older 372 owners like mine say the 372 still has the upperhand. I don't really know maybe I should buy a 576AT and see what I think?

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

I too always liked the 372, plenty of parts available for em too. The older models always run better than the new ones, want a new one to run good? Then put an old adjustable carb on it. New saws have no adjustments, you can only replace the diaphragms or just pitch em and replace em. Rebuild your old saw in my opinion. I look for old saws when I can find em at the right price and just rebuild em.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

When things calm down with you and you don't need her, send Hildy to me and I'll rebuild her.
But no freaking time lines!! Sheesh. lol.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


----------



## Kevin

I think I can do it myself now lol. I'd still rather you did though because book knowledge is nothing compared to actual experience.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1 | Funny 1


----------



## Strider

What and awesome thread! Right now I'd love to own a chainsaw and perhaps wreck it so I can fix it. THAT's how informative this thread is hahah

Reactions: Like 2 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 6


----------



## Treecycle Hardwoods

Awesome tutorial Greg! Thanks for taking the time to share a wealth of knowledge.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 3


----------



## TimR

I'd say it was just enough that I don't want to do it. Some things are better left to others. 

Edit: I said I don't want to do it...which doesn't mean I won't try. I've had my saws broken down far enough to pull a piston out and look things over, but am not comfortable tuning carbs. May just need someone who knows how to sit me down and explain it.


----------



## Kevin

TimR said:


> I'd say it was just enough that I don't want to do it. Some things are better left to others.
> 
> Edit: I said I don't want to do it...which doesn't mean I won't try. I've had my saws broken down far enough to pull a piston out and look things over, but am not comfortable tuning carbs. May just need someone who knows how to sit me down and explain it.



This is the only information I used when I first started tuning my own saws. You really should buy a tach but you *can* tune one without it especially saws tat are not pro level and have modifications like mine. I use a tach because some of my saws run right on the edge. That's where they perform best. You're an intelligent guy no doubt you can learn to tune your own. 

Be sure to listen to this audio file. http://www.madsens1.com/setlow.wav

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


----------



## NYWoodturner

TimR said:


> I'd say it was just enough that I don't want to do it. Some things are better left to others.



Could not have expressed it any better. Tim - It concerns me a bit you can read my thoughts so succinctly...

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## woodtickgreg

I learned how to tune carbs on small engines by ear and still do it that way. I have a tach but seldom use it unless I just want to know how many rpms I'm turning, Just so i don't overspeed them. I always set my saws to run rich.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## HomeBody

Hey Greg, I have a 5' Bush Hog with a leaky bottom seal. Do you think you could... Good job on the saw. I envy your skills. Gary

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Funny 2


----------



## woodtickgreg

HomeBody said:


> Hey Greg, I have a 5' Bush Hog with a leaky bottom seal. Do you think you could...


I don't think the fedex guy would be very happy. LOL.

Reactions: Funny 3


----------



## phinds

Amazing analysis to us non-mechanical types. Told me WAY more about chain saws than I wanted to know  but fascinating read. You are obviously a master mechanic. It's always a pleasure to watch people who are good at their job.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 5


----------



## Kevin

Greg I finally got a few more tanks through Heidi and she's running nice and strong for a stock saw. I am going to send her off for porting though. Once you run a ported saw you'll never get used to stock but you got her running as bad ass as can be for a stock saw - hats off to you my friend and many well-deserved accolades. The guy that will do the work said he will not port a saw with aftermarket cylinder or piston though, so I had to revisit the thread to see what brand you used because I remember it beinh the high quality Italian stuff not the Chiny junk. I hope to talk him into doing it anyway with no warranty. He is more concerned about his reputation that's why he won't do a saw with aftermarket. Hope to change his mind since it is not the Chiny junk. What brand were the parts so I can tell him? I have already sent Hannah off for porting to a different guy than will do Heidi.




woodtickgreg said:


> First things I noticed, no paint on side cover



Greg, I didn't catch this before. That silver cover is from the factory. It denotes the saw as an NE (New Edition) vs OE (Old Edition). Those desiginations do not come from Husqvarna but just among the logging/saw community. This is what Heidi looked like new . . .






Here's what the OE looked like (hasn't been made in about 6 years I believe):

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## JR Custom Calls

Gah… I want to send my saw down to Terry Landrum in TN and get the treatment. I've read so many excellent things about the performance of a ported milling saw.


----------



## Kevin

JR Custom Calls said:


> Gah… I want to send my saw down to Terry Landrum in TN and get the treatment. I've read so many excellent things about the performance of a ported milling saw.



LMAO that's who I will be using to do Hilda. Probably send Heidi right after if he will take her with the Italian parts in her. Hilda is scheduled for Sept 2nd. 

Edit: I may send all my saws to the guy doing Hannah depending on how she runs. His prices and turnaround time beat everyone else hands down just got to find out about the performance now.


----------



## woodtickgreg

@Kevin , The brand of the piston and cylinder is meteor, made in Italy. Glad she's running better. I do agree with you on a ported 2 cycle running better, but that is one skill I never learned. It changes the timing on the opening and closing of the ports by the piston in the cylinder. I have polished them, but not ported them. I just have not had enough cylinders around to practice with. I hope the man does a good job for you, keep us informed. You really have to know what you are doing to do a successful porting job.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


----------

