# Amboyna glue up question



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 22, 2012)

So, I got some amboyna from a friend and I want to glue some small blocks together for some carving. The wood is VERY old, it was a table top that looks like its 30-60 years old, 3/4-6/4 thick. Cupped pretty good, so am blocking and glueing to get what I want. I will be cutting into 2" squares and stacking 65-75 high for a full length carved wizard staff. The question is, what is going to be better for this, regular wood glue or epoxy. Or does it really matter. I'm thinking that I may go with epoxy, tinted red, but its a toss up now. Any feedback is welcome.


----------



## kweinert (Aug 22, 2012)

Couldn't sell it, eh? :)

Not that I'm an expert, but I would think that epoxy might be better in this case.

I don't know how apparent it will be that you've glued up blocks, but in case it is readily apparent have you considered taking advantage of that?

I mean by gluing in contrasting (or complementary) layers of something else appropriately. Wouldn't need to be every layer, of course.

Just thinking out loud here.


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 22, 2012)

Ken
I decided to keep instead of selling. I'm glad I did, initial cuts reveal some seriously pinned amboyna, with a pretty wide band of sapwood. Oh, and the sapwood has some blackline spalt as well. I will post pics as this evolves. I'm glad the top was painted, hiding the figure so no one bought this till I came to my senses.


----------



## DKMD (Aug 22, 2012)

I think you'd be fine with either glue, but I might considering using dowels for structure and to increase the glue surface. Also, some kind of clamp/vice setup would help facilitate hiding the glue joints if you choose not to highlight them. Looking forward to the build thread!


----------



## BassBlaster (Aug 22, 2012)

I'll second the dowel. Maybe one long one and drill each block and slide them over and glue up. It surely couldnt hurt and it would never be seen.


----------



## davidgiul (Aug 22, 2012)

End grain glue or perpendicular to end grain? If latter tite2 no need for dowel. Glue in sections maybe 10 blocks to a section and then glue sections together. End grain epoxy with adhesive powder mixed in. Dowel a good idea


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 22, 2012)

No, its burl. Milled in line with eyes, so in order to get eyes I'm stacking the blocks. I'm on the fence doing the dowel thing, as I feel the theory of modern adhesives is they are supposed to be stronger than the wood. That and burl is interlocking grain I'm thinking no grain lines to.speak of. If I do go with dowel, I may use 1/2" aluminium tube to reduce weight. It's an evolving design. I am still minding the engineering, as this will be used as a walking stick. An amboyna burl walking stick. CRAZY


----------



## ripjack13 (Aug 23, 2012)

I second the notion of using a rod as a center. Reason being that,yes, the glue is going to be stronger than the wood, but what if the wood breaks. As you said , it is old... I'm sure it's going to see a fair amount of use, so why not be safe? I would hate to hear that you (god forbid) fell while using it cuz the wood gave out. 

Also..I'd love to see pix of the top before you cut it up...if not..no biggie...a picture filled process topic on how you did it will do.


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 23, 2012)

Point taken on the dowel. My last thought on this before falling asleep was my buddy trying to.turn a very small finial for one of his hollow forms. He gave up
because the material was so brittle due to dryness and age. I am probably going to go with aluminum tube, but not positive yet. As for finish, I'm thinking of using CA but not sure what happens if water gets on it in future. Ripjack, any trouble with your grips that are finished in this manner?


----------



## Mike1950 (Aug 23, 2012)

KNOW nothing of finishing with CA but from what I have read seems spendy and slow on a piece like this(Large) TruOil -a gunstock finish is durable and does well in the outdoors and is easy to touch up. Seems like a walking stick is going to take a certain amount of abuse. You ddo realize this thread is solely lacking in on thing though :dash2::dash2::dash2::dash2: Where are the PICTURES- we need PICTURES.:wacko1::wacko1:


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 23, 2012)

Ok, so here is the beginning of this story. My friend imports antiques and architectual salvage from Thailand. I'm walking through his storage yard (two semi trailers and a patch of gravel) and I see this funky cupped faded table top. It's painted, but I can see from the edge profile its some kind of a burl. So I ask "how much?" He says go ahead and just take that, its too beat up for me to sell. I get home, sand the paint off and discover its amboyna burl. Oh, by the way there's two slabs at 55x30x3/4"-5/4". I've already cut up and used the first one, this is the second one and I think its better that the first. Funny, I tried to sell this for $50 to fifty different woodturners and they all passed. I'm glad they did now. How much do you suppose the wood is really worth in this baby? Here are some pics so everyone knows it really happened.....


----------



## Mike1950 (Aug 23, 2012)

$50 I will take It  Nice piece of wood thanks for the pics!!!


----------



## DKMD (Aug 23, 2012)

Just a thought about the top coat... Why not renaissance wax? It's dead easy to apply over whatever finish you choose, and it doesn't spot with water exposure like a lot of waxes. It's expensive, but I've had the same can for three years with half a can left to go.

Also, what are you gonna use for the tip? I would think some kind of metal would be good for wear purposes.

Sounds like a cool project!


----------



## ripjack13 (Aug 23, 2012)

Ancient Arborist said:


> Point taken on the dowel. My last thought on this before falling asleep was my buddy trying to.turn a very small finial for one of his hollow forms. He gave up
> because the material was so brittle due to dryness and age. I am probably going to go with aluminum tube, but not positive yet. As for finish, I'm thinking of using CA but not sure what happens if water gets on it in future. Ripjack, any trouble with your grips that are finished in this manner?



I have only one drawback when doing them...it takes forever. But it's hard as a rock when done. For this I would suggest finding an alternative finishing method. Like Mike said, TruOil. That would be a fitting finish. 
videos on it are here...


----------



## Mike1950 (Aug 23, 2012)

A couple things nice about truoil- it is a no brainer to apply-easy. another is as I said before repairability and 3rd you can have gloss or satin out of the same can. Cheap also.


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 23, 2012)

Good tip David. I do have some ren wax, I may try it. My theme for finish on this is the.highest grain "POP" with some level of durability. I'm not sure ren wax will do that. Probably do high # sanding (600+) some type of oil, then urathane topcoat. Or epoxy as it doesn't darken the wood and tends to keep colors true.


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 23, 2012)

Ok Mike, I watched those true oil videos, and I would be interested in trying that. Where can I buy some true oil? Looks like a perfect application for this project. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Mike1950 (Aug 23, 2012)

Jonathan- I did not put up the video's but just finished a stock. I bought mine on ebay- pretty cheap and fast. Found it to be a great product. I also like arm-r-seal an oil urethane wipe on by general- tough as nails and easy to apply. Just think the Truoil is the stuff for outdoor use. I bought 32 OZ for $23 including shipping from wholesalehunter. After the fore and buttstock finish I bet I still have 28-30 OZ left. Goes a long ways. Good luck with your stick sounds like a cool project, M


----------



## DKMD (Aug 23, 2012)

Ancient Arborist said:


> Good tip David. I do have some ren wax, I may try it. My theme for finish on this is the.highest grain "POP" with some level of durability. I'm not sure ren wax will do that. Probably do high # sanding (600+) some type of oil, then urathane topcoat. Or epoxy as it doesn't darken the wood and tends to keep colors true.



I agree that you won't get as much pop with ren wax as you will with oil... I was thinking more along the lines of just using the ren wax as a final step over another finish.


----------



## davidgiul (Aug 23, 2012)

Enough talk, let the build thread begin with pictures of you sawing material, drilling for dowel, gluing, etc, etc.:davidguil:


----------



## ripjack13 (Aug 23, 2012)

I don't mind who he thanx. Technically Mike suggested it first...but We're all in this together to make sure it turns out as good as possible.


----------



## Ancient Arborist (Aug 24, 2012)

Sorry to say David, but with my impending move I won't be able to work on this till mid to late next month. I was just starting the rough cuts and figuring what I needed to keep at the top of the pile so I can go at this first thing when I'm settled. I will document and post my process when I start up again. Thanks for everyone's input, those distinctions will help this turn into something special.


----------



## ripjack13 (Jun 10, 2013)

Ok...so how goes the project? I haven't forgotten this.....I really would like to see it completed.


----------



## healeydays (Jun 10, 2013)

Wow, I've got to go back to the old posts to do some reading. I always look in the scrap piles of antique shops and estate sales looking for old broken materials, but never got a find like that one. I too would love to hear the results. If not started, another possible insert instead of a dowel or aluminum would be a fiberglass shaft like they use in the winter for parking lots. Nice and strong, but real thin and light.

Mike B


----------

