# 1911 Pistol Grip "How To" (My method) w/lots of pics



## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

I had promised a long time ago, at the request of several folks, to do a tutorial of how I make 1911 pistol grips. As you read through this and view the pictures, keep in mind that this is the method I currently use, which may or may not be the best method for you. There are some steps that can probably be done differently or more efficiently, but I do these for the enjoyment of doing them and I arrived at this process after scouring the internet on how to make them and then just going for it. Some of my fixtures look crude or primitive and I keep thinking I need to improve them, but they work, so I don’t mess with them.

I am in the process of making several sets, including a set of 45 degree cut bamboo from @Schroedc, which is the set I took pictures of during my process. I've tried to be concise with my steps, but feel free to ask questions, critique my method, or offer advice.

Thanks,

-jason

*1911 Pistol Grip How-To:


1. SELECT THE WOOD:* Select the piece of wood you want (bamboo for this example) to use for the pistol grips. I generally like to start with a blank that is thick enough so I can resaw it and have bookmatched grips, to me it just looks better on the pistol.
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2. DETERMINE THE LAYOUT: *I have created templates of the right and left grip, including a set out of clear acrylic/polycarbonate. I use these to determine the best layout of the grip, left and right sides, and top/bottom orientation.




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3. RESAW THE BLANK: *Resaw the blank in half and thickness to slightly more than what you want the finished thickness of the grip to be. I use my drum sander to smooth and thickness them.
(sorry, don't have a picture of the two blanks after resawing)
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4. CUT BLANKS TO ROUGH SIZE: *After resawing the pieces, use the clear templates to layout each grip (left and right sides), trace around the template and trim to rough size on the band saw or scroll saw.




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5. PREP BLANKS FOR FLUSH TRIM: *Adhere the roughed out blank to a set of templates using two-sided carpet tape and install a flush trim bit in the router table. (I use a spiral cut flush trim bit to minimize tearout).








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Note: The picture above shows a different set of templates (mdf covered w/laminate), but they are the same as the clear templates.

6. FLUSH TRIM THE GRIPS: *Flush trim both the right and left blank on the router table and remove from the template.




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After flush trimming the grip:
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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

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7. DRILL THE HOLES: *At this point, I drill my holes in the grips using one of my “primitive” fixtures. The holes need to be precisely spaced or they will not properly fit the frame. For this style grip I use a ¼” drill bit and the holes are spaced 3 1/16” apart (center to center).

a. Set up the fixture on the drill press using the fence and appropriate hold downs. This fixture consists of a fixed base, a sliding block (to accurately space the holes), and a stationary block with a hole for drilling the counterbores (more on this later).
b. For drilling the holes I have the fixed base clamped to the table and the sliding fixture in place and to the right. I set the first grip in the fixture and drill the first hole.
c. Clear all the dust and chips, slide the fixture to the left stop and drill the second hole (see video). If everything is setup properly you end up with accurately spaced holes in the correct location. Lather, rinse, and repeat with the next and any subsequent grip blanks.
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Fixed Base:
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Sliding Block:
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Counterbore Block:
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Sliding block in Fixed base:
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And with the grip:
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First hole drilled:
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Move "sliding block" to the left:
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and drill the second hole:*

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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

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8. COUNTERBORE THE BACK: *After drilling all the through holes for all grips in the current batch I switch out my drill bit with a counterbore bit w/pilot and remove the sliding block and set in the fixed block (which just has a hole drilled in it to accept the pilot as it exits the bottom of the grip). I use this bit to counterbore the back of the grip, the face will be done after shaping the contour.
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Counterbore bit w/pilot:
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the fixed block in the jig:
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and the counterbore:
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9. SCRIBING THE EDGE: *Now set a marking gauge to around 1/16”+ (I just eyeball it) and scribe a mark, referencing off the bottom of the grip, on each of the long sides. This scribed line gives an edge thickness to work towards and helps avoid getting it too thin while shaping.

*Note: If I am going to “chamfer” the end/bottom of the grip I will scribe the line on the bottom of the grip also.




 


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10. SHAPING THE GRIP: *Using another fixture (even more primitive than the last) to hold the grip, I will begin the shaping process. This fixture consists of a piece of 2 x 6 material about 12” long that I’ve drilled two ¼” holes in and insert ¼” dowels into. The holes are spaced accordingly to accept the grips. Clamp the 2 x 6 in the end vise and set the grip over the dowels to hold it in place.


The grip holding fixture (fancy, huh?):



 



 



I use a small, Stanley 102 handplane to shape the grip.
a. Start on one side of the grip and begin “chamfering” it towards the scribed line from Step 9. Take several passes before shifting the plane a little towards the center of the grip and planing it more. Continue shaping in this manner, working towards the center, keeping an eye on the shape of the grip, and the thickness of the edge (trying to leave just a hint of the scribed line).



 



 


b. Rotate the grip 180 degrees in the fixture and work on the other side. The last couple of swipes are down the “high point” of the grip, which is hole-to-hole.



 


c. Check for symmetry and overall shape, not worrying too much if there are light ridges or plane marks as it will get sanded later to further refine the shape and edges.
d. Repeat this process for the other and any remaining grips.

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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

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11. INITIAL SANDING: *Once your grips are shaped, it’s time to sand them. Using the same fixture from Step 10 to secure the grip, break out the ROS. I can usually start with 150-180 grit as the plane does a pretty decent job if the blade is sharp.
a. Sand the back of the grip first so you won’t mar the face after it is sanded.
b. Flip the grip over and sand the face, but be conscious of the shape of the grip, AND the edges. Remember that line we scribed earlier? You’ll want to sand down to the line (until it just disappears) and then slightly round over the edge.




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Both grips shaped and sanded:
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12. RELIEF CUT LEFT GRIP: The left grip needs a relief cut to fit under the plunger tube. To do this take a 3 sided file and file a shallow groove in the top of the LEFT grip. 
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Then move to a round file, to get a nice contour and, using the shallow groove as a guide, file the relief in the top of the grip. 
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The grip should now fit under the plunger tube as shown*




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13. COUNTERBORE THE FACE: *Take the grip back to the drill press and counterbore each hole on the front of the grip using the same fixture from step. The head of the screw should fit flush or just below the surface of the grip.

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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

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14. TEST FIT THE GRIPS:* Test fit the grips on the frame to ensure a snug fit and install the screws to ensure they are at or below the surface of the grip.

Here you can see the shape of the grips



 
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15. FINISH SANDING: *Take the grips back to the sanding jig and ,depending on the wood and finish being used, sand through 400-600 grit, sometimes going as high as 1200 grit.
a. Hand sand each grip using the finest grit used on the ROS.
b. Wipe off any dust and check the grips for scratches, defects, etc. Clean up until you are satisfied.



 


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16. APPLYING THE FINISH: *Using an oil/varnish blend or TruOil, apply several coats (scuffing between coats) of finish to the grip (follow the finish manufacturers instructions). If so desired, buff them with wax after the last coat of oil has cured.



 


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17. INSTALL THE GRIPS: *Install the grips on your pistol and wait for the compliments to roll in!

Hope this helps someone decide to make their own grips, but keep in mind that there are many ways to do it. I prefer using the plane to shape them, but most of what I read prior to making my first set used a fixture on a belt or disc sander. Others use different drilling jigs/fixtures, and still others won’t tell you what they do!

Also, I have a short video of the hole-drilling fixture in use, but can't seem to embed the video....any help?

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## Kevin (Apr 3, 2015)

Excellent tutorial Jason. A lot of Pacific theater WWII vets wouldn't like your choice of wood grass lol but they do look good. I prefer darker species for 1911 grips but still, I do like those they're a nice change of pace. Thanks for the tutorial.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Apr 3, 2015)

Nicely done sir. Those look great. I like the use of the plexi panel. I use the same kind.


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## ripjack13 (Apr 3, 2015)

You need to upload the video to youtube then you can embed it from there.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Schroedc (Apr 3, 2015)

So cool to see how they go from start to finish. Really cool to see what you did with a block of raw material that came from me and the finished product!

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

Kevin said:


> Excellent tutorial Jason. A lot of Pacific theater WWII vets wouldn't like your choice of wood grass lol but they do look good. I prefer darker species for 1911 grips but still, I do like those they're a nice change of pace. Thanks for the tutorial.



Thanks Kevin, and I agree about the darker grips, that is what I typically prefer, but like to try a little of everything. This was the first time I tried bamboo so I just put a clear coat on them. The next set I plan on dyeing them to see how they turn out. I will also be posting pictures of several sets of grips I just finished, just have to get some decent pictures of them first.

Oh, and if this thread should be moved to the Class Room, feel free to do so.

Thanks again,

-jason

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## Kevin (Apr 3, 2015)

tocws2002 said:


> Oh, and if this thread should be moved to the Class Room, feel free to do so.



That's up to you Jason it fits well in both forums. I'm cool with it here if you are.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

Kevin said:


> That's up to you Jason it fits well in both forums. I'm cool with it here if you are.



I'm fine either way also, you can just leave it here since it's already here.

Thanks.


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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

ripjack13 said:


> Nicely done sir. Those look great. I like the use of the plexi panel. I use the same kind.



Thanks, I like the plexiglas and it really helps to layout the grip to get the best look/grain pattern, etc. 

I'm curious if you notice significant differences, and what some might be, in the way I make my grips compared to how you make yours.

-jason


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## ripjack13 (Apr 3, 2015)

Well...there's a few..
I use my bandsaw to cut em to rough size.
My belt sander to bring em to size.
A round file to do the notch.
Belt sander to round em. As well as a half round file....

I like the idea of using the router bit to shape em out though....

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 3, 2015)

ripjack13 said:


> Well...there's a few..
> I use my bandsaw to cut em to rough size.
> My belt sander to bring em to size.
> A round file to do the notch.
> ...



Thanks, when I went to make my first set I found a lot of people do it the way you do it. I do use my bandsaw a lot to cut them to rough shape, though lately I've been using my scroll saw as the bandsaw has a wide blade installed on it now.

As for sanding vs. planing, I didn't have a decent belt sander so I reached for a plane. Gotta say I like the shavings better than the dust, but it also leads to slight variations from set to set (which isn't necessarily a bad thing).

http://i67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Projects/PistolGrips/Pistol%20Grip%20Tutorial/20150329_184955.jpg 

As for template routing, I prefer this method as I can get very consistent shapes from one set to the next, though I want to setup my vacuum press to use on my templates instead of the two-faced tape. I think it would save me a bunch of time by not having to cut and apply the tape, route the grip, remove the tape and residue, and do it all over again for the other grip.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## tocws2002 (Apr 5, 2015)

Here is a link to the video for drilling the holes...

http://vid67.Rule #2/albums/h309/tocws2002/Projects/PistolGrips/Pistol Grip Tutorial/DrillHoles.mp4

Thanks, 

- jason

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## HomeBody (Apr 25, 2015)

Thanks Jason. Nice tutorial. Where do you buy those bits for doing the holes? Gary

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Strider (Apr 30, 2015)

Great post tocows2002. Mind posting the finished and mounted product? x)


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## ripjack13 (Jan 14, 2020)

Awesome. Thank you for updating this!
It is now a sticky!!!

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## kweinert (Jan 15, 2020)

tocws2002 said:


> ... instead of the two-faced tape. I think it would save me a bunch of time by not having to cut and apply the tape, route the grip, remove the tape and residue, and do it all over again for the other grip.



Have you looked at the blue tape/CA method? Put blue painters tape on both pieces then use CA to glue the tape together, back-to-back. I think it would lessen your clean up a lot. I've used it before and seen it on several well known woodworkers sites but you might want to try it with test material first just to be sure it works in your application.

Very nice looking grips and a great tutorial as well.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Informative 1


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## tocws2002 (Jan 15, 2020)

kweinert said:


> Have you looked at the blue tape/CA method? Put blue painters tape on both pieces then use CA to glue the tape together, back-to-back. I think it would lessen your clean up a lot. I've used it before and seen it on several well known woodworkers sites but you might want to try it with test material first just to be sure it works in your application.
> 
> Very nice looking grips and a great tutorial as well.



I have not tried that method, but it does sound like it would be quicker and easier as long as there aren't any issues with the blue tape allowing movement during routing. I'd want to try it on a larger piece of wood before routing something as small as the grip 

Thanks, 

-jason


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## Gdurfey (Jan 15, 2020)

Thanks Ken as it allowed me to find this thread as well. Yes, could have searched, but I don't need to start any new projects. But this is a great tutorial @tocws2002 Jason!!! Thanks so much. I love lo

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