# How to fill small imperfections



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

So first run in with this. I'm working with FBE and am getting close to finishes the rough shape and getting ready to move to sanding. In the past the wood was very smooth but this has little grooves and crevices in it. Is there a way to fill these in or should I not. I'm going to finish it in CA. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## SENC (Feb 21, 2016)

Show us some pictures, Ben, and we can better help.


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

I went ahead and starting sanding but now I'm dealing with sanding dust (from the sandpaper) getting into the crevices. I can't get it out. Ugh. Trying to research now.


----------



## SENC (Feb 21, 2016)

An air compressor or even canned air should take care of the dust before finishing - but, again, show us a few pictures.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

I'm guessing it my 600 & 1500 cheapa** sandpaper. Hopefully you can see it.


----------



## manbuckwal (Feb 21, 2016)

Some ppl like the rustic look of the natural voids (open grain) and some do not. I will put paper towels on my lathe bed, and hand turn the lathe while pouring thin CA over the entire blank to fill in the "holes" , then hit with accelerator while hand turning still . Sand it back and may repeat steps if necessary. Just one way to skin the cat

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Wildthings (Feb 21, 2016)

I do the same as Tom but use a piece of cardboard instead of the paper towels. Seems I glued some paper towels to my lathe bed once upon a time

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks guys...I'll post yet ANOTHER pic when I get it finished up. I'm sure you guys love to see amateur hour. :)

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## SENC (Feb 21, 2016)

Tom's advice is good. Another way to do it, once you get it finish sanded, is to take a strip of sandpaper and pour thin CA on the workpiece while slow spinning and sanding (cover your lathe bed and wear latex gloves). Once you get a good coat, sand again - pretty much all the way through the CA to wood. You'll see whether you need to redo the process. What you're doing with either technique is building up a uniform base for the ultimate CA finish.

A few other comments that might be way off base, but you mentioned 600 and 1500 grit paper: First, if you are starting with 600 grit paper, you are probably working too hard. I usually start about 180, sometimes even lower if necessary. Second, a rule of thumb that has worked for me is to never jump grits by 2x or more, and I usually shoot for 1.5x increments - meaning I'd go from 600 to 900 and not further than 1200 in one jump. Giving the piece a quick sanding with the grain before each jump in grits makes a noticeable difference to me. Last, I rarely go above 600 anymore before finishing (usually a grit below if a finish I want to get into the pores), saving the higher grits for polishing the finish.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## SENC (Feb 21, 2016)

A tip for covering the ways: on your next trip to Lowes or HD, pick up a few magnetic/vinyl vent (hvac vent) covers. They are cheap and easily stored on the lathe legs, side of the bed, or nearby metal cabinet. When you need them, slap them on the ways where the magnet keeps them in place. I usually use two at the time, allowing one end to "climb" up the headstock and tail stock to shield them a bit, too. The vinyl surface cleans easily, though who (other than @Kenbo) would care if they get nasty - if they get bad enough to bother you, just toss them and get a couple more.

Reactions: Like 3 | Funny 1 | Useful 1


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

I go from 240, 320, 400, 600 then 1500. I have to get new sandpaper.


----------



## SENC (Feb 21, 2016)

Ben Holt said:


> I go from 240, 320, 400, 600 then 1500. I have to get new sandpaper.


You're good with what you have, then.

When you need more, if you're just doing small stuff the turners sanding pack at woodcraft is pretty good and makes it easy to have what you need right at hand. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/148558/woodriver-turners-sanding-pack-sand-paper.aspx

Some prefer their higher end pack from Mirka because the abranet doesn't clog like regular paper.

My favorite are the klingspor gold rolls - but you have to buy those separately and create a mounting/dispensing solution.


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 21, 2016)

Here's the finished project. The ca finish is quite what I was hoping but the Ebony and FBE is a nice combo. I salvaged it...my first segmentation was a bust, so the FBE had to fill in.

Reactions: Like 4


----------



## rdabpenman (Feb 22, 2016)

Nicely done for your first go at it.

Les


----------



## Kevin (Feb 22, 2016)

Ben Holt said:


> I go from 240, 320, 400, 600 then 1500. I have to get new sandpaper.



Going from 600 to 1500 is not a good idea IMO. As a rule you should never double or more. I don't usually even do that and the finer you get the less the gap ought to be IMO. Next time try adding 800, 1000, and 1200 between the 600 and 1500. You can probably get away with 800 and 1200 but you don't spend much time on them anyway. Going from 600 to 1500 probably makes for some scratches you wouldn't get if you sneak up on it.


----------



## manbuckwal (Feb 22, 2016)

Looks a lot better ! I didn't pay very good attn to your first pic, but some of the "holes" look like tear out ? Was the FBE stabilized ? I do not go beyond 600 grit when sanding just the wood, but sometimes after 600, I will hit it with 0000 steel wool .


----------



## Kevin (Feb 22, 2016)

manbuckwal said:


> I do not go beyond 600 grit when sanding just the wood



I don't usually go beyond 400 unless it's a real shiny species.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------



## Ben Holt (Feb 22, 2016)

Thx guys. After i snapped the "problem" pics, i went back and sanded again and took out the rough spots. Turned out ok but the wood diameter was a bit short afterwards.


----------



## JR Custom Calls (Feb 22, 2016)

It looks to me like you're turning box elder without stabilizing it? If so, that will contribute to your problem drastically. Turn a stabilized piece for comparison, and you'll never turn it unstabilized again.

Reactions: Agree 1


----------

