# Joinery, everyone has their favorite.



## Brink

I like joinery, all kinds. I'm sure we can all chime in with our fav's. This isn't a chance to put one over the other, but a chance to show some neat joints, some techniques etc.

I'm starting this with the simple edge joint.



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So, let's see what everyone has. Laps, bridles, dovetails, mortis and tenon, bring them all on.


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## Mike1950

Bridal joint- easy and very strong- I use it in box lids with a simple groove in a groove joint for lid inset.

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## Mike1950

PS- also a spline joint in box.


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## Brink

Nice looking box, Mike. Bridle joints have most of the benefits of a mortis and tenon, but so much quicker to make.


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## Brink

[attachment=12674]

Jointing a couple boards


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## firemedic

Brink said:


> Jointing a couple boards



That ain't no joint, lol that just two boards clamped together. :lolol:

Here's a couple! M&T, haunched M&T and a wedged scarf joint. I got to say the wedged scarf joint is up there in my favs.


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## Brink

firemedic said:


> That ain't no joint, lol that just two boards clamped together. :lolol:
> .



Jointing, not jointed.


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## Brink

I do like the wedged scarf, looks like fun


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## Mike1950

Brink, One common denominator in both of our shops is neither of us are going to get the "KENBO AWARD" for cleanliness!!!!
Bridal joint- I agree it is strong-overkill on box lids, and it looks nice. Also dry fits so nice. 

Mortise and tennon- ity bity 1/4" -enough to drive a grown man crazy :dash2::wacko1::dash2::wacko1:-Jewelry box -preview of coming attractions. Did I tell you I love jointery!!!! Amazing what you can do with a little wood and a bunch of holes.............

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## Brink

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That's the look of a great day!


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## firemedic

Brink said:


> Jointing, not jointed.



I know! Me so funny! :lolol:


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## Brink

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DT sockets for bed slats


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## Mizer

Brink said:


> That's the look of a great day!


I can see Kenbo pointing at his computer mouth open and shaking his head.

Brink, you must really go after it with that hand plane if you need to wear a set of ear muffs.


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## Brink

Lol!


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## Mizer

firemedic said:


> Brink said:
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing a couple boards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That ain't no joint, lol that just two boards clamped together. :lolol:
> 
> Here's a couple! M&T, haunched M&T and a wedged scarf joint. I got to say the wedged scarf joint is up there in my favs.
Click to expand...


Very nice! Are those part of a project or demonstration joints? What application would the wedge scarf joint be used for? I like that one the best.


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## Brink

Mizer said:


> Very nice! Are those part of a project or demonstration joints? What application would the wedge scarf joint be used for? I like that one the best.



Hahaha, that's in case you cut a board too short. :)


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## Mizer

Brink said:


> Mizer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Are those part of a project or demonstration joints? What application would the wedge scarf joint be used for? I like that one the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hahaha, that's in case you cut a board too short. :)
Click to expand...

No,no, that can't be true. Tom would never do that.


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## firemedic

lol, the scarf joint would be used for jointing timbers end to end for timber framing but it has other uses too. 

I cut that little demo piece for a demonstration I was doing at LSU that including timber framing so that people would have a small model to examine and see how they work. It's 3x3 oak... Much easier than 8x8's! lol


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## Mike1950

Hey we need some dovetails- drawers-half blind.

[attachment=12686]

I guess I cheat though- one side with router table and the other by hand. TV credenza had 12 drawers- that is a lot of pins and tails- Sure wish I was as fast on first set as I am on last- one thing about dovetails- ya get in a groove and they go pretty fast........


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## Brink

Dovetails!



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Half blinds



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Sliding



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Hand cut full blinds


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## firemedic

Now ole Brink is showing off!

Very nice, man.


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## Brink

I am not...ole! Lol


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## firemedic

Brink said:


> I am not...ole! Lol



Yes you are... Mike, Kevin - we need a brink emotioncon!


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## Brink

Ha!
Emoticon all you like, it shows up as text on my app.


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## Brink

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Miter joints...


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## firemedic

Don't forget Finger Joints!


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## Brink

Hahaha, few knuckle calluses, impressive


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## firemedic

Thanks, that's the only finger that's not scared beyond to the point of going "what da heck is dat?"


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## Brink

Come on Tom, you must have more than some girlie fingers to post.


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## firemedic

Ok, ok... how bout some joint failure! Even master jointers have a joint fail sometimes - particularly finger joints!


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## Mike1950

OUCHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Brink

Stubbed toe? Lol


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## firemedic

Want to see a failed butt joint? :lolol:


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## firemedic

How bout a couple funky M&T joints:


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## Brink

Very nice! And a half blind, half lap dovetail?


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## Brink

Mike1950 said:


> Hey we need some dovetails- drawers-half blind.
> 
> I guess I cheat though- one side with router table and the other by hand. TV credenza had 12 drawers- that is a lot of pins and tails- Sure wish I was as fast on first set as I am on last- one thing about dovetails- ya get in a groove and they go pretty fast........



Nice looking DT's. 

I don't think it's cheating to use a router table. I figure if it makes a tight joint, that's fine.

There must be some other joiners to chip in, here.


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## Mike1950

A little standup box that I am working- building 2 protptypes and may do a build on the 8 more I will be doing for christmas.Mortise and tennon carcass. My signature round on the drawer and sides. Puny little dovetails and half blinds are sorta difficult with my large fingers. Also a row of sliders at top of box. There will be hooks on these to hang necklace or??? These are a test persimmon slides there and on drawer-that is what I bought persimmon for in first place. Lots of little bity pieces to keep track of. My marking system sorta got erased with sander in assembly. :dash2::dash2::dash2::dash2: I am hoping to do a little better on group of 8.

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## Brink

I like it! The curvy drawers look sorta like airfoils.


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## Brink

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Big bridles.



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Wedged tusk tenon


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## Mizer

I have been wanting to get into this thread, been busy lately but I finally got into the shop. This is a joint I have been working on, not exactly sure what to call it. I think I will just add some wood putty to fill in the gap and make it all smooth.

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## Mizer

Brink said:


> Big bridles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wedged tusk tenon


Those are some nice crisp joint lines.


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## Brink

Guess it could be an industrial arts, ferrite splined edge joint.


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## Brink

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Pinned mortis and tenon


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Wedged m&t


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## Mizer

Brink said:


> Guess it could be an industrial arts, ferrite splined edge joint.


I think that those corrugated fasteners should be against the law.


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## Brink

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We got corrugated fasteners, now some screws.


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## healeydays

Guys,

5 pages of joints and no one brings up one of the most important joints around. Gotta have some music going in the shop as I work, so my favorite joint is the:


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## Brink

I wouldn't be caught dead there, nope, I'd be living well!


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## cabomhn

Hey guys, I've been watching this thread quite a bit but I was just wondering if anybody on here has been able to do what is known as a "double double box joint." I found this a little while ago...

Link


and I was just wondering if anyone knows how to accomplish this effect. I would really love to learn how to do this type of joint. Bill Wyko over on WWT had a tutorial on his site for a long time on how to do it but I was never in need of it until now and his site is gone!  Thanks for any help!


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## Mike1950

cabomhn said:


> Hey guys, I've been watching this thread quite a bit but I was just wondering if anybody on here has been able to do what is known as a "double double box joint." I found this a little while ago...
> 
> Link
> 
> 
> and I was just wondering if anyone knows how to accomplish this effect. I would really love to learn how to do this type of joint. Bill Wyko over on WWT had a tutorial on his site for a long time on how to do it but I was never in need of it until now and his site is gone!  Thanks for any help!



Link does not work for me.


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## Brink

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Inlaid dovetails.


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## cabomhn

I guess the link changes, so here is the upload...

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I have seen the inlaid dovetails like that, and have heard people saying that there are jigs you can buy out there to make those. I was wondering what the method is on the table saw for creating these doubled box joint joints if anybody has any idea where I might be able to go look for some guidance on how to create the box joint affect.


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## Brink

Being a box joint, it should be easy enough on a TS. My inlaid DT's are very similar execution.



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Starting out with undersized tails.



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Fit in the inlay wood.



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Trimming off the excess.



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At the top is the inlay fitted into a rabbet on the back of the pin board, the other two are the inlays trimmed on the tail board.

All the cuts were by hand, so a TS would work fine doing box joints.


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## firemedic

I still think those are pretty cool, Brink.


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## cabomhn

Thought I would add a new joint to my list, one of the few woodworking joints I've ever tried. I did these by hand, since my shop doesn't have dado stack, well better yet, they don't have a saw stop mechanism for a dado stack, so I was limited. Anyway, I'm thinking this will be one of my favorite looking joints from now on, but probably the most time consuming and not very practical. 

- Matt

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## Brink

Matt, that is awesome! And done by hand, dublawesome!!

What kinds of wood did you use?


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## cabomhn

Brink said:


> Matt, that is awesome! And done by hand, dublawesome!!
> 
> What kinds of wood did you use?



Thanks! The main portions being connected are zebrawood, then sandwiched in between is jatoba and purpleheart. I think once everything is sanded and the lighter colored zebrawood is shown the darker contrast should show through nicely, now there isn't much contrast between the zebra and jatoba. I realized after this that since the grain is running vertical that I lost a lot of the joint strength here but I'm hoping that being a fairly unmoving object that it won't cause me too much grief.


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## Woodsman

cabomhn said:


> I guess the link changes, so here is the upload...
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen the inlaid dovetails like that, and have heard people saying that there are jigs you can buy out there to make those. I was wondering what the method is on the table saw for creating these doubled box joint joints if anybody has any idea where I might be able to go look for some guidance on how to create the box joint affect.



Woodline has some jigs that will make that happen if I am remembering correctly.


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## healeydays

Need a little education for your folks. I am thinking of putting spline joint like this on a cutting board I am doing and don't know how to best do it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?


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## cabomhn

healeydays said:


> Need a little education for your folks. I am thinking of putting spline joint like this on a cutting board I am doing and don't know how to best do it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?



Here's what I would do. If you don't already have one, make a table saw jig that is able to support your cutting board at a 45 to the table base. If you just google image "spline joint jig" you can find 10 million ways to to this. Then I would take my dado stack on my table saw and set it for your max width, for the pic you provided the width of the maple. Then plane the material to just fit in the spline and glue. After that dries, re-square that edge that was splined on the table saw or whatever method of your choosing to get back to a flush 90 degree. Then I would reset my dado stack with a slightly smaller width and then line up the cuts by eye from side to side. You will have to lower your blade height by an amount that makes the spline match side to side as well as on the ends. This is mostly going to be trial and error, so I would try this on some scrap until you get the number of turns to lower the blade perfected for a certain difference in width. Then, just make the cut and then replane some more material, in your example, walnut to just fit inside the spline and glue. 

This is what came to mind to me when seeing that. Someone else might have some different more efficient ideas.


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## cabomhn

I was thinking about it a bit more and an easier way to find out how much you need to lower your table saw blade for the second cut is to figure out what the gap will need to be on each side and then multiply that by the cos(45) and that will be the height your blade will need to be lowered.

For example, if you first dado was 1/2" and your second was 3/8", you would have a uniform border of 1/16" all around, so the amount your blade would need to be lowered to make it even would be...

(dado offset) x ( cos (45) ) = height blade needs to be lowered

so for 1/16"

(1/16) x cos(45) = 0.0442 or approximately 1.5/32" 


Sorry if this is not the kind of thing that makes sense to you, I think math, and a lot of the traditional methods don't make sense to me!


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## healeydays

cabomhn said:


> I was thinking about it a bit more and an easier way to find out how much you need to lower your table saw blade for the second cut is to figure out what the gap will need to be on each side and then multiply that by the cos(45) and that will be the height your blade will need to be lowered.
> 
> For example, if you first dado was 1/2" and your second was 3/8", you would have a uniform border of 1/16" all around, so the amount your blade would need to be lowered to make it even would be...
> 
> (dado offset) x ( cos (45) ) = height blade needs to be lowered
> 
> so for 1/16"
> 
> (1/16) x cos(45) = 0.0442 or approximately 1.5/32"
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is not the kind of thing that makes sense to you, I think math, and a lot of the traditional methods don't make sense to me!



Math doesn't scare me. Thanks for the idea...


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## Brink

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Wedged dovetail. This is a no glue joint on a current project.


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## firemedic

Very cool, Brink!


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## Brink

firemedic said:


> Very cool, Brink!



Thanks.

You must have some more to share?????


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## firemedic

Me? No... Been a little busy...


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## Brink

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Wedged dovetails after finishing



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Wedged and pegged through tenons


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## woodtickgreg

Very cool looking piece Mr. Brink! Is the wood species elm? or second guess, ash?


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## Brink

You're right, first try. It's elm.


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## woodtickgreg

Brink said:


> You're right, first try. It's elm.


Be shure to post that piece when it's done, I would really like to see the finished project.


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## Mike1950

VERY VERY nice work Brink!!


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## firemedic

Really cool, Brink!

So are the dovetails wedged in both axis?


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## Brink

Only the pins are wedged. The tails are back-beveled to accept the wedged pins.


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## Brink

woodtickgreg said:


> Very cool looking piece Mr. Brink! Is the wood species elm? or second guess, ash?





[attachment=15941]

It's just a table.


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## woodtickgreg

Brink said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool looking piece Mr. Brink! Is the wood species elm? or second guess, ash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a table.
Click to expand...

Yes, but very unique, has a hint of green n green to it. I like it!


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## Brink

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Wedged front axle.


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## woodtickgreg

:wacko1::wacko1::rotflmao3:


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## Brink

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Bigger dovetails


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## firemedic

Nice!


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## Brink

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100-150 year old pegged mortis and tenon


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## firemedic

Brink said:


> 100-150 year old pegged mortis and tenon



That's cool!


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