# Drilling Travel



## justallan (May 15, 2016)

I have the mini Jet 1014 lathe and just don't have the travel on the tailstock to get far enough, what's your answer to this? I haven't looked yet, but am wondering if Jet makes a tailstock with more travel.
I was drilling the center for a pepper mill and it gave me fits with chatter, more than likely my tailstock isn't true.
What do you guys do?


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## SENC (May 15, 2016)

justallan said:


> I have the mini Jet 1014 lathe and just don't have the travel on the tailstock to get far enough, what's your answer to this? I haven't looked yet, but am wondering if Jet makes a tailstock with more travel.
> I was drilling the center for a pepper mill and it gave me fits with chatter, more than likely my tailstock isn't true.
> What do you guys do?


I only use quill travel on the tailstock for the first 1-1.5" to guide travel. I find that the further the quill is extended, the more opportunity there is for runout. If I need super precision or am working with a "catchy" wood, I'll retract the quill, slide the tailstock in and lock it back down, run the quill the next inch or two, repeat. Most of the time, though, I retract the quill and finish the drilling by manually sliding the tailstock. Where hole diameter is 1/2" or greater, I'll start a full diameter drill to 1/2" or so then drill with a 1/4" diameter bit to full depth then finish with the final diameter bit. Keeps things cooler and truer for me.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | +Karma 1


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## Tim Carter (May 15, 2016)

I use drill bits with a no. 2 MT to drill holes up to 1". They usually have 7"+ of usable bit plus the MT. Anything larger than 1" and I use Forstner bits with extenders to get to the depth I need. The 2MT bits slam right into the tailstock without having to fool around with a Jacobs chuck-much faster and they run true.

Reactions: Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## Nature Man (May 15, 2016)

Would love to visualize better what you guys are talking about. Would you mind sharing pics to help clarify. Thanks. Chuck


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## Tom Smart (May 15, 2016)

Bigger lathe.

Reactions: Like 1


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## SENC (May 15, 2016)

Tim Carter said:


> I use drill bits with a no. 2 MT to drill holes up to 1". They usually have 7"+ of usable bit plus the MT. Anything larger than 1" and I use Forstner bits with extenders to get to the depth I need. The 2MT bits slam right into the tailstock without having to fool around with a Jacobs chuck-much faster and they run true.


I love my MT bits, too. Expensive but well worth it. Mine are frome Norseman, as I recall.


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## Kevin (May 15, 2016)

For Peppermill's I just haven't found it necessary to be super precise, and I know I have run out on my tailstock but I drill the entire length before retracting and moving the tailstock in. Doing so is second nature and takes only a fee seconds. I never even shut the motor off during the entire drilling process. I do nit retract the bit from the hole at all, as I reverse the quill I keep pressure against the tailstock and feed it in.. When drilling I turn the wheel with my right hands and hold my air nozzle in the hole and blast the cool air in to keep the shavings coming oit and the bit relatively cool.

I haven't tried the MT bits yet but that sounds like a good idea.

Reactions: Like 1


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## justallan (May 15, 2016)

@Nature Man, here's what I am talking about. With the quill on the tailstock retracted to fully extended is only about 2" of travel. I think my biggest problem with the scoot and drill idea is the size of this lathe and how true it is, especially if I release the lock on the tailstock.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (May 15, 2016)

justallan said:


> @Nature Man, here's what I am talking about. With the quill on the tailstock retracted to fully extended is only about 2" of travel. I think my biggest problem with the scoot and drill idea is the size of this lathe and how true it is, especially if I release the lock on the tailstock.
> 
> View attachment 104325
> 
> View attachment 104326


Got it. What about using a longer drill bit? Chuck


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## justallan (May 15, 2016)

I have longer drill bits, but the travel on the tailstock quill is only 2".
I'm thinking my best option is to just use my drill press.


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## DKMD (May 15, 2016)

Some guys have longer quills than others... It's not your fault.

Reactions: Funny 5


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## justallan (May 15, 2016)

Kimmie thinks it's 10" and that's all that counts!

Reactions: Funny 4


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## Tom Smart (May 15, 2016)

justallan said:


> I think my biggest problem with the scoot and drill idea is the size of this lathe and how true it is, especially if I release the lock on the tailstock.



See, I told you, bigger lathe.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## duncsuss (May 16, 2016)

justallan said:


> ... more than likely my tailstock isn't true.
> What do you guys do?



I trued my headstock and tailstock, it made all the difference in the world (and got a better chuck).

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Nature Man (May 16, 2016)

I understand the 2" quill travel, but doesn't the tailstock have considerably more movement on the lathe bed? Chuck

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Kevin (May 16, 2016)

Nature Man said:


> I understand the 2" quill travel, but doesn't the tailstock have considerably more movement on the lathe bed? Chuck



Mine sure does. Side-to-side travel is where 98% of my sloppiness is. The quill is pretty tight in the barrel or whatever that part is called.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Allen (May 16, 2016)

I have never made a pepper mill, so I can't tell you how to do it. 
However, when I'm drilling to set the bottom depth on a tall vase, I drill a couple of inches using my quill travel with a 5/8 bit. Then I use an electrician's 5/8 x 14" drill bit with a handle to drill the rest of the distance by hand. I do pretty good just eyeballing it, but probably wouldn't be accurate enough for a peppermill.
Just an idea...
Allen

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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