# Good beginner set of bowl gouges



## Anthony (Jun 13, 2016)

Looking for input on where to get a set of good beginner bowl gouges at a reasonable price


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## duncsuss (Jun 13, 2016)

Is there a reason why you are asking about "a set"?

I started out with a single bowl gouge -- one of the PennState Industry (Benjamin's Best) 1/2" ones. Completely adequate to get started, I still use it (among the others I've collected!)

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Anthony (Jun 13, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Is there a reason why you are asking about "a set"?
> 
> I started out with a single bowl gouge -- one of the PennState Industry (Benjamin's Best) 1/2" ones. Completely adequate to get started, I still use it (among the others I've collected!)


No reason, I'm just new


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## duncsuss (Jun 13, 2016)

Anthony said:


> No reason, I'm just new


Then welcome to the vortex ... 

One of the most important things about gouges is being able to keep them sharp, and being able to repeat the same sharp profile time after time takes either a lot of skill or a jig to ensure the tool is held the same way each time it meets the sharpening device. Do you have a bench grinder?

Reactions: Agree 2


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## ironman123 (Jun 13, 2016)

::


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## barry richardson (Jun 13, 2016)

I made many bowls before I ever knew how to use a bowl gouge, there is a learning curve to them. If you want a general set of turning chisels, I have heard from many people that Harbor Freight sells a decent set pretty cheap. If you are a beginner, the carbide tools are very user friendly, not cheap if you buy them, but pretty easy to make your self...


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## Anthony (Jun 13, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Then welcome to the vortex ...
> 
> One of the most important things about gouges is being able to keep them sharp, and being able to repeat the same sharp profile time after time takes either a lot of skill or a jig to ensure the tool is held the same way each time it meets the sharpening device. Do you have a bench grinder?


Yes I do.


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## Tclem (Jun 13, 2016)

I started out on bowls and took the advice of several people. Get a good bowl gouge and then when you realize what else you need. Get it. I started with a piece of junk and it lasted about a week. I then purchased a Doug Thompson and now I have 5 of his tools. There are others that will get you started and not break the bank. I think I even use a couple of the benjamins. Might as well spend a few extra bucks and get you something decent as opposed to a $5 gouge that you will be sharpening every 5 minutes and will be buying something better in a month

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Kevin (Jun 14, 2016)

@Anthony you might check with @woodtickgreg and see what tools he has in stock. I agree that you should learn to use a conventional bowl gouge, but I rarely use anything except my tick tools. 



Tclem said:


> I started out on bowls and took the advice of several people. Get a good bowl gouge and then when you realize what else you need. Get it. I started with a piece of junk and it lasted about a week. I then purchased a Doug Thompson and now I have 5 of his tools. There are others that will get you started and not break the bank. I think I even use a couple of the benjamins. Might as well spend a few extra bucks and get you something decent as opposed to a $5 gouge that you will be sharpening every 5 minutes and will be buying something better in a month



@SENC did you write that paragraph for Tony?

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2 | Funny 3


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## duncsuss (Jun 14, 2016)

Anthony said:


> Yes I do.



Getting a repeatable grind on your gouge does two things: (1) it removes less metal each time you sharpen, so the tool lasts longer, and (2) you grow accustomed to the bevel angle and build up a "muscle memory" of the right way to hold the tool against the workpiece = faster learning curve.

Many folks (myself included) like the Oneway Wolvering sharpening jig. I started out cheap and built my own version using a length of t-track, a block of hard maple, and 3 or 4 t-bolts. If I can remember where I put them for safe-keeping, I'll dig out pix of it.

To get a "swept-back sides" grind it's easiest to get a jig which works in tandem with the Wolverine (the Oneway Varigrind is one example). I use some that are made by a guy who was a member in the turning club I go to (scroll down to "gouge sharpening jigs".) These are very simple things and there really is no need to spend a lot (you can make your own, I can point you at guides if you wish.)

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Anthony (Jun 15, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Getting a repeatable grind on your gouge does two things: (1) it removes less metal each time you sharpen, so the tool lasts longer, and (2) you grow accustomed to the bevel angle and build up a "muscle memory" of the right way to hold the tool against the workpiece = faster learning curve.
> 
> Many folks (myself included) like the Oneway Wolvering sharpening jig. I started out cheap and built my own version using a length of t-track, a block of hard maple, and 3 or 4 t-bolts. If I can remember where I put them for safe-keeping, I'll dig out pix of it.
> 
> To get a "swept-back sides" grind it's easiest to get a jig which works in tandem with the Wolverine (the Oneway Varigrind is one example). I use some that are made by a guy who was a member in the turning club I go to (scroll down to "gouge sharpening jigs".) These are very simple things and there really is no need to spend a lot (you can make your own, I can point you at guides if you wish.)


Thank u . very helpful


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## Mike Mills (Jun 15, 2016)

I've found the Hurricane to be a pretty good quality. I really can't tell a difference in them and my Sorby. They do not say where they are made but I _assume _it is PRC even though they are spec'd by UK standards. UK's are measured by the flute where others are measured by the bar stock so UK's are about 1/8 larger. ie A 1/2" UK equals a 5/8" in others or a 3/8" UK measures 1/2" in others.
It really doesn't matter except when you add more bowl gouges; if you have a 3/8 UK and want a larger and buy a 1/2 US they will be the same size.
I would go with the 3/8 and 1/2 (1/2 and 5/8 US). They offer a set of three for about $10 more which includes the 1/4 (3/8 US). 
I would also suggest a parting tool.
The prices are the same at their site or on Amazon; Amazon may be a little less (free shipping) if you have prime.
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/categories/Bowl-Gouges-4_10.html
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...ne+bowl+gouge&rh=i:aps,k:hurricane+bowl+gouge

Difference in sizes only relate to Bowl Gouges, not Spindle Gouges or other tools.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Anthony (Jun 16, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Getting a repeatable grind on your gouge does two things: (1) it removes less metal each time you sharpen, so the tool lasts longer, and (2) you grow accustomed to the bevel angle and build up a "muscle memory" of the right way to hold the tool against the workpiece = faster learning curve.
> 
> Many folks (myself included) like the Oneway Wolvering sharpening jig. I started out cheap and built my own version using a length of t-track, a block of hard maple, and 3 or 4 t-bolts. If I can remember where I put them for safe-keeping, I'll dig out pix of it.
> 
> To get a "swept-back sides" grind it's easiest to get a jig which works in tandem with the Wolverine (the Oneway Varigrind is one example). I use some that are made by a guy who was a member in the turning club I go to (scroll down to "gouge sharpening jigs".) These are very simple things and there really is no need to spend a lot (you can make your own, I can point you at guides if you wish.)


Please do, I would like to make my own


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## duncsuss (Jun 16, 2016)

I found the snaps of my sliding T-bar gizzmo ...


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## duncsuss (Jun 16, 2016)

Here's a link to one jig I made using sheet steel and some all-thread rod: LINK 

And one I made from a block of maple and some dowel: LINK 

There are many more options -- this page has a few: LINK 

If you want to waste a couple of days, do a search for "sharpening jig plans for woodturning tools" (there are almost as many results as there are woodturners )


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## Anthony (Jul 24, 2016)

duncsuss said:


> Getting a repeatable grind on your gouge does two things: (1) it removes less metal each time you sharpen, so the tool lasts longer, and (2) you grow accustomed to the bevel angle and build up a "muscle memory" of the right way to hold the tool against the workpiece = faster learning curve.
> 
> Many folks (myself included) like the Oneway Wolvering sharpening jig. I started out cheap and built my own version using a length of t-track, a block of hard maple, and 3 or 4 t-bolts. If I can remember where I put them for safe-keeping, I'll dig out pix of it.
> 
> To get a "swept-back sides" grind it's easiest to get a jig which works in tandem with the Wolverine (the Oneway Varigrind is one example). I use some that are made by a guy who was a member in the turning club I go to (scroll down to "gouge sharpening jigs".) These are very simple things and there really is no need to spend a lot (you can make your own, I can point you at guides if you wish.)


Could you please post the links for the guides on making a sharpening jig? Thank u 
Anthony


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## Anthony (Jul 24, 2016)

Anthony said:


> Could you please post the links for the guides on making a sharpening jig? Thank u
> Anthony


Oops , just saw them .

Reactions: Like 1


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