# Dyeing techniques/tips



## Des76421 (Apr 14, 2016)

Hi guys,

I'm looking for advice on how to get my dye to penetrate all the way through my blanks and also how to achieve rich, vibrant colors on the finished product. I've got the stabilizing process down but this dye thing is really hanging me up. Any help is appreciated; websites, books, videos, personal experience.

Thanks so much!


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 14, 2016)

How long do you soak your blanks?


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## Des76421 (Apr 14, 2016)

I've tried soaking for 10 mins and I've even had them soaking so long they molded. I've tried soaking them in water first thinking that would help draw the dye in. I just got some Keda dye in the mail so I'm going to try that with isopropyl alcohol this time.


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 14, 2016)

Do you stabilize your blanks using a vacuum chamber?


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## Des76421 (Apr 14, 2016)

Yes, I do.


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 14, 2016)

There are folks that have had excellent results using the colorant with the stabilizing resin. The longer you let them soak (after releasing the vacuum) the better. Alumilite colorants are compatible with Cactus Juice by the way. Also, it may depend on the type of wood you are using.


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## Des76421 (Apr 14, 2016)

I use maple mostly. I'm trying to get deep colors like in this picture.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 14, 2016)

Here's some good info that may help... 

http://woodbarter.com/threads/dying-turning-blanks.18195/


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## sleevecc (Apr 14, 2016)

Ill say from personal use and i have many hours,,, if you buy one ounce of dye,,, dont just put a few drops in say a quart of resin,,, make a batch,, 1 qt to one ounce and stabilize one color from that one quart adding clear resin as the dye is soaked up from the material,,, it comes down too, there is not TOO much dye you can add,, but less cause ya being skimpy or cheap that is different,,, different woods take dye differently,,, weigh your items going in and coming out if you really wanna know how much is happening,,, just my advice,,, have fun. 

The bubbles tell all,,, j/s

Reactions: Agree 2


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## DKMD (Apr 14, 2016)

I've read quite a few threads on this over the years, and the common theme seems to be using more dye than you think you need... Then add more dye.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 17, 2016)

Here's a piece from @gman2431. I'm not sure what type of wood it is, but it's some nice looking stuff. Thanks again! I let this soak for approx 72hrs after I released the vacuum. The two bottom pieces have been stabalized using Cactus Juice w/blue Alumilite dye. I'm somewhat satisfied with the results. I'll definitely continue running test batches. I wiped some mineral oil on the piece to the right. Next time I plan on using more dye and allowing it to soak longer. Plus, I think I still had a small percentage of moisture in the wood. Anywho, you live and learn. Currently stabilizing a piece of maple burl. Made some adjustments on this batch. Anxious to get it done, but also trying to practice a little patience.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1


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## Blueglass (Apr 17, 2016)

Looks like some Camphor BUrl I had.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sprung (Apr 18, 2016)

Des76421 said:


> I've tried soaking for 10 mins and I've even had them soaking so long they molded. I've tried soaking them in water first thinking that would help draw the dye in. I just got some Keda dye in the mail so I'm going to try that with isopropyl alcohol this time.



Desiree, are you trying to stabilize and dye a piece? Or just looking to dye without stabilizing?

If you're looking to dye without stabilizing a piece, you'll need to apply the dye after the piece is turned and sanded as the dye will not penetrate into the wood.

If you're trying to through dye the piece before turning it, you will need to dye it while stabilizing. What stabilizing resin are you using? Whatever stabilizing resin you're using, you will need to add dye to the resin - and, as suggested above, use more dye than you think you'll need. The colors you're hoping to achieve are done while stabilizing - and water and/or alcohol will not play any part in the equation. I would suggest talking to someone like Curtis from TurnTex, especially if you're using his Cactus Juice. He's a member here - @TurnTex - and he's the guy who could write the book on stabilizing and stabilizing/dyeing.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## F.W.von (Apr 18, 2016)

I thought the way was to put the dye soaked stuff in a pressure pot, so far I only see the thread mentioning vac chamber?

Reactions: Like 1


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## DaveHawk (Apr 18, 2016)

I use a couple different dye systems. I'll be doing some testing. This has been some excellent info. Thanks


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## chanser123 (Apr 21, 2016)

More Dye and longer soaks should help you out when stabilizing. Some woods take a good week or longer to get full penetration of color

Reactions: Agree 1


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## chanser123 (Apr 21, 2016)

And make sure wood is very dry

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 21, 2016)

Here's the maple burl that's been soaking for the past 4 days. I trimmed a piece off so we could do a stare and compare. I think I'm pleased with the results. Stabbed it with blue Alumilite dye and Cactus Juice.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 4


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## F.W.von (Apr 22, 2016)

So lookin forward to playing like this

Reactions: Like 1


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## Woodturner1975 (Apr 23, 2016)

The sun was out today.  Snapped some better pictures. Shows the color a bit better.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | EyeCandy! 6


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