# Any input on persimmon wood?



## Mallardman (Feb 6, 2017)

I had to harvest a persimmon tree on my property yesterday that was in danger of falling on some power lines. So I cut in Down and cut out a couple bowl blanks from it, nice yellow color with some black lines in it. Anyone have much experience turning it before? Any input appreciated.


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## wyowoodwrker (Feb 6, 2017)

Fantastic stuff to work with, can be a little problematic to dry from my understanding....though @Mike1950 would be the guy who knows more about that.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mallardman (Feb 6, 2017)

I attempted to just rough out a couple yesterday and quickly Gave up after i got soaked in sap and water.


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## DKMD (Feb 6, 2017)

It moves quite a bit while drying and has a tendency to crack... I'd process it into the sizes you're after, rough it out where possible, and seal it up pretty aggressively. Even doing that, I'd expect some losses.


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## Mallardman (Feb 6, 2017)

DKMD said:


> It moves quite a bit while drying and has a tendency to crack... I'd process it into the sizes you're after, rough it out where possible, and seal it up pretty aggressively. Even doing that, I'd expect some losses.


That's kinda what I've gathered from everything I've read. I figured at best i could do some inlay if it cracks really bad.


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## Mike1950 (Feb 6, 2017)

Turns like butter from what A turner here told me. He made a 12-14" platter for me- hard to believe how thin it is. I personally do not think sealing it matters. It will go wonky on you both ways. I would cut pith out.


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## Mallardman (Feb 6, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> Turns like butter from what A turner here told me. He made a 12-14" platter for me- hard to believe how thin it is. I personally do not think sealing it matters. It will go wonky on you both ways. I would cut pith out.


Thanks mike I'm ready to turn some of it.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 6, 2017)

And what I do with really wet wood after I rough turn it is to just spin it on high for awhile to throw the water out, then immediately seal it up with anchor seal and put it in a brown paper bag with its own shavings to slow down the dry time, give it at least six months. I sometimes pull it out of the chips and bag and let it sit for a couple more months in the free air before removing the anchor seal and letting it sit again. Now most woods you don't have to be so fussy with em, but some you do, from what I hear persimmon is one you do have to fuss with.
And don't forget to wax your lathe bed after turning wet wood and don't let the shavings and chips sit on it for long, it will rust the bed if you blink!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## greenleecustomcalls (Feb 6, 2017)

I have turned quite a few calls out of it and it turns great, I cut and sealed it when it was cut and let it air dry a year or two (cant remember) Didn't loose much really, just like cutting and drying any wood really


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 6, 2017)

If you don't cut it right away, the sapwood often 'grey stains'... If you spin dry it, use a cardboard collar to catch the water, so the shop stays dry...

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mallardman (Feb 6, 2017)

greenleecustomcalls said:


> I have turned quite a few calls out of it and it turns great, I cut and sealed it when it was cut and let it air dry a year or two (cant remember) Didn't loose much really, just like cutting and drying any wood really


Does it make pretty good sounding calls


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## greenleecustomcalls (Feb 7, 2017)

It does pretty good, makes a nice turkey pot, and works great for strikers, does ok for duck calls just really not a lot of figure, but I prefer Osage Orange for duck and goose


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 7, 2017)

Just as good as several other ebonies. Sound is what matters first and foremost, but for looks, it can be rather plain. Spalted 'Persimmon' looks cool, not sure how it sounds. I would think stabilized, puts everything on the reed assembly.


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## Mike1950 (Feb 7, 2017)

You get some nice crotch pieces and the black can be nice.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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