# Food safe waxes



## woodtickgreg (Feb 7, 2016)

Here's a couple of food safe waxes that I really like. Both of them I purchased at my local woodcraft store. They are both very simple food safe finishes for bowls, utensils, cutting boards, etc. I originally tried the George's club house wax for cutting boards that I was making. I flooded the boards with mineral oil and topped with the wax, protected good. The wax is kinda firm for a mineral oil and bee's wax blend, works well on the lathe as some friction melts it in and buffs it up well. About $8 a jar so cheap enough and a little goes a long way.





I was in wood craft the other day and I saw this Howards butcher block conditioner. Wax, mineral oil stabilized with vitamin E in a squeeze bottle, I had to give it a try. They had this little sample bottle for $2 bucks. I thought I would try it on a board that I use often just to reseal it. The wax a plied the easiest I have ever used, soaked in nicely, and made the board look new again. Buffed up by hand really easy too. I'm going back for the big bottle, I really like this stuff.



Now I know I can make my own wax very easy by just melting bee's wax and stirring in mineral oil, might be fun, but this is good food safe finish in a squeeze bottle for a few bucks. Works great and easy peasy.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2 | Great Post 1 | Informative 1 | Useful 2


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## Nature Man (Feb 7, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Here's a couple of food safe waxes that I really like. Both of them I purchased at my local woodcraft store. They are both very simple food safe finishes for bowls, utensils, cutting boards, etc. I originally tried the George's club house wax for cutting boards that I was making. I flooded the boards with mineral oil and topped with the wax, protected good. The wax is kinda firm for a mineral oil and bee's wax blend, works well on the lathe as some friction melts it in and buffs it up well. About $8 a jar so cheap enough and a little goes a long way.
> 
> View attachment 96830
> 
> ...


Sounds like you really like both of these products. So what would you put on a utensil, bowl, etc., that you just finished sanding? Howard's then George's? Thanks. Chuck


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 7, 2016)

Nature Man said:


> Sounds like you really like both of these products. So what would you put on a utensil, bowl, etc., that you just finished sanding? Howard's then George's? Thanks. Chuck


On the bowl I would probably use the Gearge's while it was still on the lathe and turning, the friction would melt it in nice and would buff up with a white cotton cloth very easy. For anything else I would use the Howard's, it is just to darn easy. And I still would start off with a coat of straight mineral oil applied generously and allowed to soak in, the next day I would top with a coat or 2 of the waxes.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Schroedc (Feb 7, 2016)

I love the Howard's mineral oil while turning and finishing the salad bowls I do.


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## duncsuss (Feb 7, 2016)

+1 for George's Clubhouse Wax -- it gives a nice satin finish when applied to pieces still on the lathe, I've used it on a number of lidded boxes.

I haven't tried the Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, I should grab the sample bottle next time I'm in Woodcraft.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Tony (Feb 8, 2016)

I got the sample bottle of the Howard's as well, really liked it. I've toyed with the idea of putting one of those samples ones with each cutting board I sell, I think that would help things move faster. Tony

Reactions: Agree 2


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## gman2431 (Feb 8, 2016)

Will have to try the Howard's. I got a thing of George's many years ago that is still dam near full.

Reactions: Like 1 | Creative 1


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## Strider (Feb 8, 2016)

Good finds!
I would add, for the homemade emulsion making, that you have an advantage of quantity...and with that being said, you can apply it to other projects. Should you add more oil to the wax ration, lets say 60-40, you get a really good applying properties. Wax is...well, waxy, and you heat it up to get some penetration. With this, you don't need to do it, you can use it as a cream. See, the guy in the video used 50-50, but added Turpentine which you don't need. Nor heating it up. I find linseed oil and beeswax a good way to protect all materials. Why? Well, linseed and, lets say, olive oil tend to leave a leathery film on things, they don't coagulate and make a bumpy, tacky mush like some oils do. And they're edible. For the wax, I would use parafin which is edible, but beeswax sounds more natural in origin, rather than being a crude oil derivate haha!


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## Alan Sweet (Feb 8, 2016)

When I want to apply beeswax and mineral oil to a surface, (like a cutting board) I crumble up an ounce or two of beeswax into a glass measuring cup, pour 3-6 ounces of mineral oil and pop it into the microwave. Run it on high for a minute maybe a bit more. And voila ready to be applied. For cutting boards, I just pour it on, spread it around and done. Thats just my fast approach.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Strider (Feb 8, 2016)

Yes, off course, but that way you're stuck at home or in the shop, where you need the microwave...this way you can stash it or carry it to the other side of the globe and still be able to apply it. 
Now, don't get me wrong, both ways do the same job, pretty much, but they humor needs differently. 

I though that microwave break apart vitamins and nutrients in food- won't it destroy the compounds that make something antibacterial, for example? Just like overheating it, right?


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## sprucegum (Feb 15, 2016)

[QUOTE="woodtickgreg, post: For anything else I would use the Howard's, it is just to darn easy.[/QUOTE]
Ditto that


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 15, 2016)

I'm really liking this howards, soaks in real nice and gives a very warm look to the cutting board. For a cutting board or kitchen utensils like spoons and such you really want it to soak in to protect the wood for the long term and not just sit on top of the wood.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Hap Hazzard (Mar 31, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> Here's a couple of food safe waxes that I really like. Both of them I purchased at my local woodcraft store.



I wanted to point out that the George's Butcher Block Conditioner is also available at the big orange and big blue stores--although big blue describes it as "Oil-Based Interior Stain" in their online catalog, which might make it a little hard to find. I hope this won't dampen anybody's enthusiasm for the product, but folks who don't have good local woodcraft stores can get this product too. Of course, if you do have a good local woodcraft store, you should buy it there or you won't have it for too much longer.



Strider said:


> Well, linseed and, lets say, olive oil tend to leave a leathery film on things, they don't coagulate and make a bumpy, tacky mush like some oils do. And they're edible.



The linseed oil that's usually sold as a wood finish, "boiled" linseed oil, contains a lot of additives that make it distinctly un-edible. Raw linseed oil, usually sold as flaxseed oil, and olive oil are safe when fresh, but could become rancid if not stored and handled properly. If you want something that's food-safe and suitable for wood finishing, it's always best to buy a product that's intended for that purpose. If you make your own, you really need to know what you're doing. If anybody gets sick, it's on you, not the companies that sold you the ingredients intended for different purposes.


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## chippin-in (Apr 3, 2016)

Can you use the georges after tung oil...after it has cured for a couple days? I ask only cuz i dont want to go buy mineral oil if i dont have to.

Thanks
Robert


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## SENC (Apr 3, 2016)

chippin-in said:


> Can you use the georges after tung oil...after it has cured for a couple days? I ask only cuz i dont want to go buy mineral oil if i dont have to.
> 
> Thanks
> Robert


Is the "tung oil" you used pure tung oil, or is it something marketed as tung oil? Not being a smartass - there are "tung oils" out there that contain no tung oil, so the answer could, conceivably, change. Assuming pure tung oil and that Georges is just wax and/or an oil/wax blend, yes. The longer the oil cures before waxing the better (ie., a couple weeks would be better than a couple days).

Reactions: Agree 1


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## chippin-in (Apr 3, 2016)

This is what i have. It says it is a blend of oils


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## Tony (Apr 3, 2016)

chippin-in said:


> This is what i have. It says it is a blend of oils
> 
> View attachment 100986



IMO, I would leave that one alone. Mineral oil is pretty cheap and easily food in any grocery store. Tony

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## SENC (Apr 3, 2016)

chippin-in said:


> This is what i have. It says it is a blend of oils
> 
> View attachment 100986


As it says below "low gloss", that is actually a varnish and not an oil finish. Well, actually it is a varnish diluted with mineral spirits (a wiping varnish). Whether the varnish was made with tung oil among its penetrating oils only the mfr knows. At any rate, that should cure a lot faster and harder than pure tung oil. And you should have no issues waxing over it if you choose to do so. Look for Flexner's book on finishes - it is extremely handy to have around for questions on finishes and which ones do and don't mix well with others.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Kevin (Apr 3, 2016)

Strider said:


> I though that microwave break apart vitamins and nutrients in food-



No, it's another myth that won't go away. Microwave oven cooking actually does less damage to nutrients than almost all other forms of heating food.

Reactions: Informative 3


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## Strider (Apr 4, 2016)

Had no clue...Darn local superstition!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Apr 4, 2016)

Strider said:


> Had no clue...Darn local superstition!



Not local - worldwide. I hink most people who use one believe they are killing their food when they use one. I even used to believe it. Thankfully I have an Air Force MSgt to thank for dispelling the myth for me and the rest of the A School class I took at Chanute AFB for a new color radar we were transitioning into our old H-3's. 

During the seargent's presentation at some point discussing a part of the magnetron circuitry, one of the students made a remark about how the microwave in the breakroom had made the ends if his burrito hard as a rock and left some of it cold in the middle. The Sgt then went on a 20 minute discussion about how food was heated and why it was impossible for the microwave energy to destroy nutrients any more than other heating methods, unless of course the food was overheated. Have you ever burned rice in a pot on the stove? WHEW! No one listening to his excellent presentation would walk out of their a microwave snob again. 

I wish he were a member so he could explain why heating the oil properly in a MWO is safer than any other method.


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 4, 2016)

chippin-in said:


> This is what i have. It says it is a blend of oils
> 
> View attachment 100986


That's a wiping varnish and not a true pure tung oil. It is probably an oil based polyurethane. They claim that it is safe as a food can't act finish when it is cured. But for food safe finishes I will stick to mineral oil, pure tung oil and beeswax

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Kevin (Apr 4, 2016)

woodtickgreg said:


> That's a wiping varnish and not a true pure tung oil. It is probably an oil based polyurethane. They claim that it is safe as a food can't act finish when it is cured. But for food safe finishes I will stick to mineral oil, pure tung oil and beeswax



If you want to stick to what is purely organic you'll add shellac to your short list Greg. If you buy fruits and veggies you eat shellac all the time. It's the most common finish on those shiny items in the produce section. It comes from the Lac bug and only the female .... SHE LAC. Most finishes are food safe when applied and used properly though.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Strider (Apr 4, 2016)

She lac, I see what you did there. I don't know where I've first heard the rumor, but our physics teacher told it breaks down vitamins, not rendering food unhealthy, rather less nutricious. We got rid of ours when my conduct/cable base broke and left a hole in the hardware for microwaves to go out from. Sadly, that was before I knew about the microwave oven transformer deathray metal melter and life ender, a really fun weekend project. What do you say about propolis? Is the low amount the only downside?


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 4, 2016)

Your right Kev, I forgot all about shellac. It is also a great finish if you want a little more shine.


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## Kevin (Apr 4, 2016)

Strider said:


> What do you say about propolis? Is the low amount the only downside?



I say that you have preconceived notions like most of us do, and you are not about to change your mind either.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Kevin (Apr 4, 2016)

In the 2009 antioxidant study, microwaving was one of the best methods for consistently preserving antioxidant levels across all the vegetables tested. Levels of one kind of cancer-fighting chemical in red cabbage were actually increased after microwaving.

Microwaves allow for shorter cooking times, with less water than many other methods, maximizing nutrient content. For example, a buch of Japanese food wizards conducted a study and found that microwaving peppers did not reduce their polyphenol or Vitamin C content, while boiling did.

A study by the Dept. of Food & Animal Sciences, Alabama A&M University compared turnip greens blanched either in boiling water or in the microwave; the microwaved greens kept much more of their Vitamin C and various B vitamins.

Use your MWO peeps. It won't kill you or your food when used properly.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Strider (Apr 4, 2016)

Kevin said:


> I say that you have preconceived notions like most of us do, and you are not about to change your mind either.


Tabula rasa! :D

Thank you for killing that little pesky bug that is prejudice. 

I've found it lol! The death ray for metals!

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## Kevin (Apr 4, 2016)

Strider said:


> Tabula rasa! :D
> 
> Thank you for killing that little pesky bug that is prejudice.
> 
> I've found it lol! The death ray for metals!



I've been subscribed to him for a while but haven't seen that one. Pretty cool!


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## Strider (Apr 4, 2016)

Yup, pretty interesthjng, might be useful, too. But...Seriously deadly!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Hap Hazzard (Apr 4, 2016)

Kevin said:


> I wish he were a member so he could explain why heating the oil properly in a MWO is safer than any other method.



I think it's because they don't provide a source of ignition for any volatile gases that might come off. Unless you put a CD in there with it.



Kevin said:


> If you want to stick to what is purely organic you'll add shellac to your short list Greg. If you buy fruits and veggies you eat shellac all the time. It's the most common finish on those shiny items in the produce section. It comes from the Lac bug and only the female .... SHE LAC. Most finishes are food safe when applied and used properly though.



I thought carnauba wax was the most common, but maybe I'm confusing what they use on produce with what they use on jelly beans and other shiny candies. Car wax too.


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## Strider (Apr 6, 2016)

Isn't the regular old parafin wax (and or oil) food safe? It is being used in the food industry quite a lot, whether or not it's origin is not...food friendly. And it gives one hell of a waterproof quality!


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## Hap Hazzard (Apr 6, 2016)

Strider said:


> Isn't the regular old parafin wax (and or oil) food safe? It is being used in the food industry quite a lot, whether or not it's origin is not...food friendly. And it gives one hell of a waterproof quality!


I wouldn't recommend eating it, but paraffin wax is pretty inert. It's often used in canning, and when I was a kid they used make all kinds of little toy-candy things out of it.


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## Strider (Apr 7, 2016)

Of course, I wouldn't eat beeswax as well haha, edible or not. Well, I chewed i once, till my jaw locked. Parafin, it's used to glue the foil lid to the cans, right? Harmless! They are the main apple coats here, but they don't overdue it, like Italians. Scrape it off and you might use it for candles because of the amount. Just bad.


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## Graybeard (Apr 7, 2016)

Just saying, if you buy your mineral oil in the drug store make sure there aren't any old guys around. They'll want to talk about bowel movements.

Reactions: Funny 4


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