# BUILD DA BOX



## Mike1950

After the auction I had a conversation with David and it was about how many hours it takes to build one of these boxes. He had a number and I thought about it and I had no clue as to how long each box took to build. So on this series I am doing a build thread and counting the hours. This time of year we have the 2 grandsons 10 and 8 and because of helath issues with the sitter we have the 2 1/2 yr old. She wears us out. Along with all the summer honey do's I spend very little time in shop-so this might get drug out. I also will be testing my birthday present a CMT cove cutter. When you use a saw blade to make coves there is a lot of sanding- hopefully this will reduce that- if not there will be a lot of %&^&%[email protected]#^&&. It was not cheap. Came today it is sharp and appears to be well made- very heavy- we will see. Now these boxes are about 5" H and 9"x12". I am building 3 walnut, 2 red oak, 1 white oak, 1 sycamore, 2 persimmon and 5 curly maple. Do not asked why on variety- I have no clue!!!  
At this point I have jointed-planed- 45'd the corners-and put grooves in for bottom. Very important to have same thickness and straight material to get nice corners.

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I use a small wire brush to clean out grooves before glueing.

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Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

Above- I clamp with cheap corner clamps to keep stable while clamping. They are cheap and work. Any questions or steps that need clarifying please ask- otherwise this all is a waste. My philosophy is the only stupid question is the one that is not asked........... Here is my helper -she is very efficient at putting the clamps I just got out back in box- having gramps spin her in chair, playing in sawdust and escaping gramma every chance she gets and making a dash to the shop.

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Here is the tool I will be testing- I hope it does what it is supposed to- came today. 

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Reactions: Like 1


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## davduckman2010

Mike1950 said:


> Above- I clamp with cheap corner clamps to keep stable while clamping. They are cheap and work. Any questions or steps that need clarifying please ask- otherwise this all is a waste. My philosophy is the only stupid question is the one that is not asked........... Here is my helper -she is very efficient at putting the clamps I just got out back in box- having gramps spin her in chair, playing in sawdust and escaping gramma every chance she gets and making a dash to the shop.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the tool I will be testing- I hope it does what it is supposed to- came today.



:no dice. more please::no dice. more please: cute granddaughter there mike there a handfull but ya gota lovem . remember there in charge


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## Mike1950

Roy, when I start useing it I will show set up for coves- pretty simple though. It will be different then 10" blade- it is a little over 7" in diameter. It is very heavy- I expect it will work great. I still need to finish glueing boxes and spline. I might add that stock is 7/8's-seems very clunky in box form that thick- out of preportion to me. When you put cove in they lighten up though. Again ask???


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## woodtickgreg

Thanks for doing this mike! I love build threads, they are never a waste, even if people do not respond or comment they do read them and learn from them, and isn't that what it's really all about? I'm subscribed and I will be watching and learning!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950

Thanks Greg- I love them also- read every thread the turners have and never plan to have a lathe. Will add tomorrow- looking forward to the coves...


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## Mike1950

Most of the work in these boxes can be done by a beginner with a table saw. I will use a router for some of the shapes but it would not be needed to complete box. Now I have used my bandsaw, jointer and planer but you could buy s4s wood in 3/4" and 1/2" and complete box. One of the joys of boxes for me is stashing away the "cosmic" pieces of wood that were made just for the box.


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## Dane Fuller

Mike,
I really like these types of threads. I have ideas of how I would build things but seeing how guys do it that actually know what they're doing is always a learning experience. Thanks!


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## Mike1950

Something to add to above- sand the inside of the pieces before glueing together. Lot easier!!! Also I know when everyone reads my wood choices- red oak???? I have favorite but all woods-even PINE ROY have their beauty. I think the Oak ones will be at the top of the like list in the end. When you are looking to build boxes you can use wood that might not qualify for a larger project. Too busy or not match- these red oak pieces were not drawer side material for my dressers- sure are box material though. The other thing to think of is spline material -seems like a no brainer- walnut -dark wood light splines!! Did not work so well here!!!

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Should have been black.:dash2::dash2::dash2:


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## davidgiul

Beautiful work, Mike. What is the finish? How do you cut the mortises for the hinges? What type of hinge do you like to use?


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## Mike1950

Thanks David, I use a general wipe on. This one is arm-r-seal gloss. These will be a different general wipe on cause I bought a whole bunch for a buck a can. What can I say I am cheap!!! Speaking of cheap- no mortise barrel hinge in bronze with screws for a buck each- ebay. Nice hinges.

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## davidgiul

Thanks.


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## Mike1950

Only have enough clamps to glue a drawer at a time-one short of having enough for 2. :dash2::dash2: 8 down and 6 to go. Top is one of red oaks. Positive proof of my statement-wood one of the wonderments of nature. 

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RED OAK

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Sycamore

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The jig I use for splines-getting a little ragged- probably need to make new base after these boxes- or???

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## chippin-in

I like this thread Mike. Thanks. I am also very interested to see the results of the cove cutter. Judging by its blade shape (curved) I bet it will leave alot smoother surface than the table saw blade. LESS SANDING!!! YAAAAAY!!!

Robert


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## Mike1950

I am back- all boxes are glued together and spline holes are cut. Here is the simple jig that I use.

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Figuring out where splines go is the hardest part. First time I used the cove in my boxes I put the spline too low and the top spline just disappeared. Now the next step is make spline material and make sure it contrasts with all sides of box material. With some this will be easy others???????


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## DKMD

Great thread! I'm loving that ugly old walnut stuff... Loving it!

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Mike1950

David there are 3 boxes of really ugly walnut 2 very ugly red oak and one super ugly white oak. The white oak is considerably heavier than the persimmon. It surprises me everytime I pick it up. The fun as I have said before with boxes is you can use some incredible wood that would be hard to use elswhere.


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## woodtickgreg

I am enjoying your build thread Mike, pretty wood too! It will give me something to do while I am recovering from my surgery and not allowed to do anything till I'm healed up. I will live vicariously through you and your work


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## Mike1950

Thanks Greg, I hope you get better soon- I was really into your rebuild thread of the lathe. Bitch getting old and having pieces fallen off but I guess the alternative aint so "hot"-well at least I am hopin not.


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> Thanks Greg, I hope you get better soon- I was really into your rebuild thread of the lathe. Bitch getting old and having pieces fallen off but I guess the alternative aint so "hot"-well at least I am hopin not.


Thanks Mike! I'll be back on the lathe rebuild before you know it! I won't be able to stay away from it for too long, as soon as the doc gives me the ok to do some light work I'll be back on it.


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## ripjack13

Excellent thread. i love the spline. the wood is just awesome too. i'm subscribed to this one...need more please.

:thanx:


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## Mike1950

I will try to get splines in tomorrow if I get the time. I really am eager to test the cutter. Thanks


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## chippin-in

Mike1950 said:


> I will try to get splines in tomorrow if I get the time. I really am eager to test the cutter. Thanks



I too am eager for you to test the cutter..

Robert


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## Mike1950

I am back- splines glued in-spline installation is not my favorite but the again maybe it is the math-14 boxes x 8= 112 :dash2::dash2::dash2: Here are pictures pretty simple- I cut thickness+ on bandsaw and then sand on the machine to get the right thickness. Mahagony and walnut in the maple. Walnut in the oaks and sycamore. Maple in one walnut -ebony in 2 walnuts and walnut and purpleheart in the persimmon. Next the COVE. 

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PS. 27 hours


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## woodtickgreg

Wow, that's a nice production run fo sho! I really like the top and third box on the right, even from a far you can see the crazy figure in those pieces, without a finish even. Your doing a great job on the tutorial Mike!


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## Mike1950

Those are both very nice- walnut -crotch with lots of color. I have learned not to decide which one I like best till the end-saves me changing my mind all the time, The syncro's are starting to wear and there is no reason to put extra strain on them. :rotflmao3::rotflmao3::rotflmao3::rotflmao3::rotflmao3:


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## Mike1950

Now that they are dry -extra spline material has to be removed. I use a cheap flush cut japanese pull saw for this task. 112 splines 224 chunks to cut off. While doing this I am reminded why I leave plenty extra on spline material. It is easier to cut off if there is 1/4 or? left to cut off. The ebony ones I left very little and they are much more difficult to trim. 4 more to trim and then I will sand splines flush with ROS and 40 grit. Later today if I get thru honey dos I may test cutter!!!


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> Later today if I get thru honey dos I may test cutter!!!


Oh please do! I'm going crazy just sittin on this couch, I need to live vicariously through you and your shop time


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## Mike1950

OK so as to keep our ailing Michigan friend from going off the deep end I put the ol body in high gear. 224 spline cuts and 14 boxes sanded-40 grit -to just smooth out splines I am ready to test the cutter. I have one failure in boxes- well not really a failure but a punky piece of wood in one of the maples. I am going to use this to test the cutter. I will run it through upside- down and trim the punky off and make a shorter box. I pictured my sanding station. I should have built this much sooner-shelve for sanders and the drawer with all the ROS grits is very handy but I hook up to my dust collection and no dust. I should have made it many years ago. Will be back later with cutter pics.

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## Mike1950

Also while I am out on the shop someone tell me what wood this one is? Sorry I meant the one on station in previous post.


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## Kevin

Mike1950 said:


> Also while I am out on the shop someone tell me what wood this one is?



Got to be either ghost wood or camo wood because it cannot be seen (at least not until you upload the image). 

:rotflmao3:

:lolol:

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Mike1950

Here we go- set up simple- now that it is tested and set I will make a couple felt pen and permanent marks on edge of saw top so I can duplicate again. I know some of you won't mark your saw top- but I want to make heirloom wood pieces and could care less about waiting for the saw to be heirloom. 

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Nothing fancy- works like a dream-1/16 inch per pass and leaves a little sanding but nothing like a saw blade.

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I do have one complaint though- I was putting box in upside down and I told myself that I needed to be careful and not put it in wrong- I think it is either the cutter or a maple thing but ooopppps:dash2::dash2: I did it again. Looks like a design change again.:irishjig::irishjig::irishjig::irishjig: Darn stupid cove cutter.:wacko1::wacko1:

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Reactions: Way Cool 2


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## woodtickgreg

Wow! That thing looks like it worked really well! I don't think making a mark with a sharpie is a big deal, it's not like you can't remove it with some lacquer thinner or acetone. Sounds like you need to mark the boxes so you quit puttin em in bass ackwards:rofl2:


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## Mike1950

When you are used to putting them right side up and then change it is almost a given I will screw up.


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## Dane Fuller

Even the screw up looks good to me, Mike. Thanks again for doing this!


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## Mike1950

It was a test piece and when I get done with it I will just say it was planned and no one will know the difference.

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Can't on this one.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1


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## chippin-in

Mike1950 said:


> Also while I am out on the shop someone tell me what wood this one is? Sorry I meant the one on station in previous post.



Ash


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## Mike1950

Nope I will show a better pic later today when it is coved-keep guessing we have to keep greg amused.


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## woodtickgreg

Can't tell you how many times I have cut or routed on the wrong side. I cut it twice and it's still to short?:dash2::dash2:


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## chippin-in

Hickory? Magnolia? Im just throwing stuff out there.


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## Mike1950

Coves are done- One heck of a lot less sanding to get smooth which is what I was hoping for. No complaints-pricey but if you do much of this kind of cove you will save what you spent in sanding time and sandpaper very quickly. Lost my top spline and almost my bottom spline in reject test piece- sure is light though. Here is a semi sanded walnut and I bet you can guess this one now. PS. no more mistakes.

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This last one is by FAR the hardest and heaviest. It amazes me how hard it is- makes the persimmon seem soft.
32 hrs.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


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## Mike1950

Also the 2 persimmon- to me the one with the dark on bottom looks right and the other looks upside down- what do you think......


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> Also the 2 persimmon- to me the one with the dark on bottom looks right and the other looks upside down- what do you think......


Dunno Mike, they all look great to me, not a bad one in the bunch.


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## Mike1950

Putting a simple rounded edge on top and bottom of half the boxes. Useing a 1 1/2" radius bit- I call it the airplane wing-large enough to be a little scarey. Fast and simple.

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Once I get the other half shaped I will show you how I do legs- simple router operation.


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## woodtickgreg

Lookin good Mike! It's interesting that you are keeping track of the hours to build these. I am curious to see what the total hours will be for all the boxes, divided by the number of boxes = hrs for one box. gonna be cool.
Hey Coug, is that a foxtail I see?


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## Mike1950

Greg, I thought I would keep track and the easiest-only way for me to keep track is to write it down- seems like this is a spot I won't lose. I don't think that is a foxtail- I think it is a very furry spider.  Don't want to ruin my image..... I have a vacumn cleaner hooked to my router table and for some reason with this bit the dust collection stinks.:dash2::dash2::dash2: Bit cuts very fine feathery shavings and it seems none get in vacumn. I will take a pic when I am done so they have something to kid me about. Not that there seems to be any shortage of reasons to pick on the ol man!!!


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## Mike1950

WOW- I am always amazed at how clunky and out of porportion a 12 x9 box 7/8's thick looks. Then you remove just a little pesky unwanted wood and presto the propotions are right. All about the illusion of design. Used a 1/2 radius bit on these. just need the feet and boxe's are done well except for sanding and finish.

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Had to look back to see hour total- that is why I have to write down -34


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## davidgiul

Nice profile on the boxes, Mike. It might look good if you put the lid in the box, so all you will see is the profile of the sides. Just a thought.
Thanks for posting a how to on the Da box.


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## Mike1950

David- good Idea-but on this group I already have stock for lids in the started stage. also I love having the pofile of the lid being part of design- changing it some every time makes it a challenge.
In this last picture the top one is the one I was asking for wood type guess- no guess's now??? I think it is the second one on left that is crazy grained red oak. I usually only use red oak for drawers but this has crazy grain and color. Will try to get the feet done later- got an auction preveiw to check out.


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## woodtickgreg

The figure in the boxes on the left and the top box is really nice, with figure like that who cares what kind of wood it is! LOL How about a closer shot of the mystery wood. Keep it goin Mike, I'm enjoying this and will be with ya till the end.


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## Mike1950

Greg, there is a picture of the figured walnut and the mystery box on page 5 with the walnut on top. The 3 walnut ones have great color and figure. You are right though- with wood like that it is a huge step to making nice boxes.


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## woodtickgreg

If it's the one below the highly figured walnut, it's an oak, it has medulary ray flecs. White, red, or? Who cares, it's beautiful, gonna look really nice with the finish, hopefully oil finish.


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## Mike1950

We have a winner- white oak-it will be my standard oil poly wipe on.


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## Kevin

Great thread and work Mike. You got this cove box making down.


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## Mike1950

Thanks Kevin, It is the closest I figure I get to making round things. Making flat things it is nice to use imagination and use curves.


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## Mike1950

The legs- I used a 1/2" straight bit- pretty simple but the first few cuts it is hard to see. I used to make marks but now I just kinda know where to start and stop. Go slow with this and take small bites 1/16" or less. One oppps and your box just got shorter. I have one small chip on the hard as a rock white oak but I saved chip and it will glue right on. The first one I finished the legs on I had to sand, finish and see what the future brings???? Multiple styles of legs with subtle changes in depth and size.

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37 hrs


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## sckincaid51

This may be a silly question but what do you use to match the contour when you are sending the cove feature?


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## Mike1950

Scott, first off there are no silly questions!!!! On the large cove I use the ROS with 150. I put box on edge of desk and with the sander cocked at an angle move it up and down and sideways. With tht new cutter I can use 150 -before I started with 60 and it was a lot!!! more sanding. The maple piece has the small coves and the have to be hand sanded-lucky for me there is not much to be sanded. The other base and top style I use the ROS on all of it. ASK away if not clear on anything.


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## Mike1950

Post is what I will call a premature box build gloat. Got 7 sanded and a coat of finish and have honey dos for today and tomorrow. Wood one of the many wonderments of nature...........

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40 hrs Picture number 3 & 4 the walnut box ended up with white feet- does not quite look real.

Reactions: Like 1


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## woodtickgreg

Oh wow! That magical moment when you wipe on the finish and the wood morphs into something beautiful and you just stare at it in awe and see things that you didn't see before.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## chippin-in

Mike you are the boxmaster. Thanks for the build thread. I learn alot and get lots of ideas from stuff like this. I need one of them there cove cutters too.

Robert


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## Mike1950

Robert- Thanks and Thank You- Comments like yours are why I do build threads. If somebody can learn form them they are worth the effort. Your box shows how you took my Idea and made a new idea!!! The cutter cuts down on the sanding a lot. Next time I use it I might try to sharpen just a little bit to see if I can improve a little more. Another point is to have Table saw insert perfectly flush. If it is not it catches a corner and that transfers into workpiece. Normally you would not notice-but then again what other time to you feed saw a an angle. Amason is the cheapest I found.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Kevin

Mike, what species is this one? Also I'd like to see a pic of the lid if you don't mind. That thing is gorgeous. Do you have any more of this species? 

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## Mike1950

Kevin- Lids are only in rough stage. I will be working on lids next week. If you are asking about the 2nd one up- that sucker is the lowly red oak- hard to believe but it is true. I think when I am done the 2 red oaks will be my favorites- some wild grained and wild colored wood. These 2 were set aside from the red oak I have-I got it out of oregon and have used it for drawer sides. These were rejects. The lids will be just as nice or nicer.


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## Kevin

I have tons (literally) of RO in various stages of rot/spalt so I probably don't need to buy any from you after all. But knowing it's RO doesn't take away from the beauty. That's one pretty box.


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## Mike1950

Thanks Kevin- I don't think it is spalt- I don't think it is burl-but it is something close. I have a few more pieces-closer to being burl- about 2' long but thick- You will see again. As I have said before boxes give you the chance to use wood that some would burn. Kinda like a turners hollow form.


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> Kevin- Lids are only in rough stage. I will be working on lids next week. If you are asking about the 2nd one up- that sucker is the lowly red oak- hard to believe but it is true. I think when I am done the 2 red oaks will be my favorites- some wild grained and wild colored wood. These 2 were set aside from the red oak I have-I got it out of oregon and have used it for drawer sides. These were rejects. The lids will be just as nice or nicer.


People really need to stop bashing oak, I don't know how it has gotten such a bad name. Although it is not all as spectacular as this it can have some beautiful figure. The better figured boards will come from a local sawyer or mill, what would be consider rejects for a lumber yard. it's hard, dense,varies in color, machines well, holds a crisp edge, is relatively inexspensive, and is an abundant renewable resource in north america. But it does stink when you cut it. lol Here in Michigan the wood from the northern forest can have some beautiful mineral staining. How hard is it? Just ask a wood turner. It used to be a very sought after wood for craftsman and mission style furniture like from green n green, the hall brothers, and stickley. Wood like mike has chosen in his boxes should make people consider oak for some projects.


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## Kevin

I know it isn't spalt etc. was just saying. 

I think it is crotch but not sure. 

:i_dunno:


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## Mike1950

Kevin said:


> I know it isn't spalt etc. was just saying.
> 
> I think it is crotch but not sure.
> 
> :i_dunno:



I do not think so but ??? Did not have whole tree but boards were 20"+ wide with no live edge.


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## Mike1950

Not much time in shop and sure could not concentrate on starting lids. Sanded and put finish on all 14 boxes. Next -lids.

46hrs


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## Mike1950

Only have a couple hours in the shop last few days :dash2::dash2: now this afternoon I thought I had time but I am babysitting 2 1/2 yr old. :dash2::dash2::dash2: I have started on lid frames. The frames are put together with a bridal joint- overkill but I like it for this application. They are 1/2 thick by about 1 1/16 wide. Now if all the box tops were the same size this would be quick there are 5 or 6 different sized tops. The penalty for tweaking the design so they do not all look the same. 6 are the same size and those are what I have left to cut. In the bottom of each box I have a post it note with top size so the old man does not get confused. :wacko1::wacko1::wacko1:
Pictured is a simple jig that can be used to cut these joints and anybody could make it. I will use a store bought one and show the set up when I get started. I have come close to loseing a box but still have 14 in production.

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48 hrs


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## woodtickgreg

I love jigs  not the irish kind:no dice. more please:


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## Mike1950

A little time this morning and this afternoon and lid frames are complete. A couple of small glitches but nothing that will be noticed by anybody but me. Pictured is completed bridal joint(no glue) and Tenon jig- if you like making tenons this is a handy tool. Tommorrow I will be on to the lid itself-another fun part with crazy wood.

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51


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## Mike1950

The lid inset- These had an added difficulty cause some of them were small so planer was out and sander was in. Works great but it sure is slower. Then to complicate matters I had set aside pieces I wanted to use But---- 3 of them when I got done were too small :dash2::dash2::dash2::dash2: down the road you will see the solution. 
Inset is held in by a 1/8" groove in inset and lid frame. I saved some of the lid frame scrap to test fit the set up. When it is right the frame and inset fit tightly without any glue. Not the quickest way to make a lid-nor by any means the easiest but it sure is slick the way it goes together. The bridal joint will get glue but the inset will not. The finish line is getting visible. The lid is about the most complicated part of box.

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61 hrs


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## woodtickgreg

The frame and inset for the lid is pretty slick the way it all fits together!  Will you put a coat of finish on the lid before it's glued together? I don't know how much a small piece like these will expand and contract, and being that they will only be glued on the corner bridles it will allow for movement, finish line could show? Great job MIKE! LOOKING REALLY NICE!


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## Mike1950

woodtickgreg said:


> The frame and inset for the lid is pretty slick the way it all fits together!  Will you put a coat of finish on the lid before it's glued together? I don't know how much a small piece like these will expand and contract, and being that they will only be glued on the corner bridles it will allow for movement, finish line could show? Great job MIKE! LOOKING REALLY NICE!



Greg, Thanks. Good point on finish line but I build 15 similar-no cove-boxes in 2001 and I can see no finish line in the 2 that I kept. Does not mean it could not happen. Insets are about 6.5x9.5 and I doubt they can move much.


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## Mike1950

To add to above post on lids and grooves. These grooves have to start and stop back from the ends of the frames otherwise they will show in the bridal joint corners. I start them about 1/2-3/4" back from the ends so the inset will fit. Any questions ask away.


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## NYWoodturner

Beautiful work Mike. I love the joinery. Thats an art in itself.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

NYWoodturner said:


> Beautiful work Mike. I love the joinery. Thats an art in itself.



Thanks Scott, these boxes are an exercise in joinery- multiple kinds. I think back and I am amazed at how much I have learned from changing a simple box with joinery into a much more complicated one but basicaly the same box. 

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Quite an evolution from this box- but that is where it came from. Boxes are so small but can be as complicated as a bedroom set if you make them be so.


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## Mike1950

I am back- happy to see SPA woodworks is working on a box- a nice one. I am getting close to end of machine work on box. These lids are an exercize in little pieces fitting together just so. I changed the outside board width- I made 3/16 narrower so my red oak would work out. Only one problem -my persimmon lid insett did not get the message-stayed the same size and in the end was shy 1/8":dash2::fit::dash2::fit::dash2::fit: Ok now after some very polite words about the origin of this stupid wood:fit::fit::fit:- I sat down and worked out a solution which allowed me to use the inset pieces. 
Again there are a lot of ways to build lids- use this way if you are just a little touched- it is definitely not the easiest lid design. 
Most of the rounding has been done with that 1 1/2" radius bit. It gives a soft curve.

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71 hrs.


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## DKMD

They look great, Mike! I wonder what it would take to wiggle one of those oak boxes out of your hands?:hookup:


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## woodtickgreg

DKMD said:


> They look great, Mike! I wonder what it would take to wiggle one of those oak boxes out of your hands?:hookup:


I'm guessing dead presidents! :rofl2:


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## Mike1950

DKMD- If it is the white oak on the right- I am sure we can work something out- If it is the red oak- I am afraid the wife has confiscated one and I am not 100% sure but I think the other red oak is also gone. Go figure - my reject red oak- I hate the smell of it- and they turn out the nicest. I have more of that wood though.


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## Mike1950

Sorry for the lack of posts but not much to say-sand,fine tune, finish and sand-you know the drill. Putting the notches in for the opener. Almost finished with outside. These will have trays and linings so that will be next. Couple pictures.

[attachment=9304]

[attachment=9305]

80 hrs.


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## Mike1950

Oh I finaly got me a foxtail- But [email protected] you SOB Roy- you did not tell me they bite when ya go to cut them OFF. :fit::cray::fit::cray:
Between the grandkids, honey does and getting a house ready to sell I do not get much time in shop.


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## woodtickgreg

Oh wow! The boxes look great with the finish and the lids on. I like the way you softened the edges of the inset panel. Everything just kinda curves and flows together. I agree, oak stinks when you machine it, But I still like it. Wish I could smell me some in my shop now. :sad:


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## NYWoodturner

Beautiful work Mike. If any of them are for sale, please post which ones. 
I would really like to get one.
Scott


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## Mike1950

Thanks Scott- they will be for sale- One Red oak is gone and I think Kathie has given up first dibs on the other Red oak one-but The doc is first in line for it. Let me get them done and see what they cost. Thanks to all for the compliments- Fellow craftsman that I respect wanting my work is quite an honor. :cray:

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950

Back again, and not to pick on David again but previously he asked about where I got material and how much was it? Now I know zip about material but Kathie does and have I told you how cheap she is- it can be embarrassing to go shopping with her- she never pays retail. These are very nice cloths and they were $5. a yard. I have enough to do a bunch of boxes. All these will be lined-none of the last were lined.

[attachment=9355]

Of course she did not make it easy-now I have to choose which color.:dash2::dash2::dash2: Oh I forgot- she says I am color blind-she will choose colors.


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> Back again, and not to pick on David again but previously he asked about where I got material and how much was it? Now I know zip about material but Kathie does and have I told you how cheap she is- it can be embarrassing to go shopping with her- she never pays retail. These are very nice cloths and they were $5. a yard. I have enough to do a bunch of boxes. All these will be lined-none of the last were lined.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course she did not make it easy-now I have to choose which color.:dash2::dash2::dash2: Oh I forgot- she says I am color blind-she will choose colors.


That just proves that behind every good man is a good woman. I'd let her pick the colors if I were you! Might help keep the piece. LOL


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## Kevin

woodtickgreg said:


> That just proves that behind every good man is a good woman. ...



Behind every good man is a shocked mother-in-law.


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## Mike1950

woodtickgreg said:


> Oh wow! The boxes look great with the finish and the lids on. I like the way you softened the edges of the inset panel. Everything just kinda curves and flows together. I agree, oak stinks when you machine it, But I still like it. Wish I could smell me some in my shop now. :sad:



You will be able to soon!! I like white oak- lots of character. Red oak makes great drawer sides. These peices do not even look like real wood- the swirlys in it remind me of a famous painting-"Starry Nite" by Van Gogh
Ps. if you really want the smell I do have shavings to send.


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## Kevin

Mike1950 said:


> ...I do have shavings ...



Oh you mean alien garnish. 

:eat:


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## woodtickgreg

Mike1950 said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wow! The boxes look great with the finish and the lids on. I like the way you softened the edges of the inset panel. Everything just kinda curves and flows together. I agree, oak stinks when you machine it, But I still like it. Wish I could smell me some in my shop now. :sad:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will be able to soon!! I like white oak- lots of character. Red oak makes great drawer sides. These peices do not even look like real wood- the swirlys in it remind me of a famous painting-"Starry Nite" by Van Gogh
> Ps. if you really want the smell I do have shavings to send.
Click to expand...

Funny Mike! I got a pile of 2" oak that has air dried for years and is in my shop, I want to use it for some boat frames if I can ever find a place large enough to build it. The thing is I could do it in the garage but it's full of wood.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Mike1950

Funny Greg, every time I pick up the white oak one, it makes me wonder if it would float- it is that heavy. The crazy grain makes it very heavy. I thought about a boat but that is as far as I will get..


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> That just proves that behind every good man is a good woman. ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind every good man is a shocked mother-in-law.
Click to expand...

Now that's funny! :rotflmao3:


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## Mike1950

Have not had much time in shop- 90 percent on the finish. Sand and finish. I have seperated 2 boxes- 1 goes this or next week to son so I needed to get done with inside.Hard to decide which one I like most but this one will sit on his desk. It is beautiful on all sides and he likes dark walnut. Eastern red cedar on inside- love the smell. Posting now cause I have the time- I am chief babysitter of Grandaughter while oldest grandson gets his gear for YMCA football. Wish I had more to show. 

[attachment=9487]

[attachment=9488]

[attachment=9489]

Have not paid much attention to time but we will make it 85 hrs


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## woodtickgreg

Wow Mike, they all look great! The cedar lining in your sons box is gonna smell great when he opens it!


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## Kevin

Those are just beautiful. They look like candy. Great choices of wood - super job Mike and it's a good thing I'm not buying one becuase I wouldn't know which to choose.!


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## Mike1950

THANKS Kevin-the favorite one is easy- it is the one in my hands at the time. In making boxes the choice of wood is critical- you put a lot of work into them and it is a bummer when the wood comes up short. Quite a variety here 6 types of wood and probably at least that many variations-some on purpose some... well I believe in creativity by desire or need makes no diff.............


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## Mike1950

Probably my second to last post. These are complete other then pads on feet and lid. Sorry this has got so drawn out-not the best time of the year for a build thread. Pics of insides and out. Walnut one is off to our son next week with DKMD's wonderful stamp handles inside. They have been fun and thanks for your patience!!!

[attachment=9602]

[attachment=9603]

[attachment=9604]

[attachment=9605]

90 hrs

Reactions: EyeCandy! 1


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## woodtickgreg

No apologies needed Mike, this has been a wonderful build and I have really enjoyed it!  It takes as long as it takes. The final result is well worth the wait, they are beautiful. And you have kept me entertained during my rehab, thanks for all that you do.


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## Mike1950

Roy, I have not really cleaned in at least a month- I need more like a really big horse tail or what would be even better would be a fairly large miracle. Build has been fun. As soon as I get done with some work I am going to do what I call a stumble bum build- Kathie bought a knife and now I have to make a handle- Will be using the knife build that is in classroom and stuble through it. PS- burl showed up thanks...........


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## Kevin

Mike, this is one of my favorite threads. Thank you for showing us how to make boxes.


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## Mike1950

Thanks Kevin , Greg and all it has been fun. I will do it again this fall. Little more complicated. Crummy weather gives me lots of shop time though.


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## Mike1950

PS- had my grandaughter bugging me while I was typing post. The Cedar in the bottom of the box is mitered and friction fit. The divider is friction fit also. Tough to disassemble and could see no reason for glue. 
If you want to build a bigger project(dresser-desk-etc.) practice on a box using your desired joinery. You will be amazed at how it gets you up to speed on the joinery-practice and you get something nice....


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## Billnewbie

Nice work but it would take me a year to do.


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## Mike1950

Hello bill


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## GROOVY

Thanks Mike if I get to making some more of these I may invest the $$ on a cove cutter!


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## Mike1950

Thanks Mike your box is cool.


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## howiesatwork

Nice pictorial how-to! Looks like I'm going to have to build some boxes... :D


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## Mike1950

Here ya go pictures for ya Cory.

Persimmon and walnut

[attachment=10748]

[attachment=10749]

[attachment=10750]

[attachment=10751]

[attachment=10752]

[attachment=10753]

[attachment=10754]

The last couple are Soft maple and Sycamore. I added a persimmon. They are the same wood but there are style differences to box.

Definitely will trade for some of your fantastic BAB.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 2


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## Mike1950

Ah ha- 3-4-5 on right are the same- walnut- crotch on top and sides. Ebony splines. I love the side of that one.


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## NYWoodturner

Man you do nice work !

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Mike1950

Cory- Whatever works for you. I will use it for inlays. Pm your address. I want to complete the dividers this week and I will send. thanks Mike


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## Mike1950

Finaly, I got back to shop and did the last work to finish boxes. I added the mahagony one-had it and lined added tray and dividers. Through attrition -trading, beads of courage and give away I am down to 8 left. Guess will be 120 hrs total. Sure was not the most efficient way to make a bunch of boxes- here and there but then again I do not care- I am only competing with myself. Red oak one Kathie has taken over so really I have 7. They are fun- opportunity to use very unique pieces of wood. Thanks for all the compliments and I will be doing another build this fall hopefully a little quicker from start to finish.

PS these are available for trade or???

[attachment=11311]

[attachment=11312]

[attachment=11313]

[attachment=11314]


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## woodtickgreg

120 hrs. to build all of those is really not bad Mike! There is a lot of work in one of those, I think you did really well and they look great! Was a fun build to watch.


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## Sprung

Mike, I'm really glad you linked to this thread in your post elsewhere. I hadn't seen this thread before - and I'm really glad I got the chance to now! These boxes are amazing, and your write-up, descriptions, and pictures are excellent. A lot of inspiration, ideas, and how-to for when I am able to give box building a go soon.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Mike1950

Thanks Matt, I try to make it to where some one like you can follow. The box completed looks difficult but if you separate into individual steps it is not difficult. You can make it without the cove to start- use 1/2" sides. The cove is just an add on for the next one then.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sprung

Mike1950 said:


> The box completed looks difficult but if you separate into individual steps it is not difficult.



That is so very true. If I had skipped to the end and just looked at the completed boxes (and also from looking at the ones you've recently posted), I'd have said that there's no way I could do anything like that anytime soon. But seeing each step broken down makes me realize that it's not difficult when you take it one step at a time and that I could make boxes like these with less time than I previously thought.

Reactions: Like 3


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## Mike1950

Sprung said:


> That is so very true. If I had skipped to the end and just looked at the completed boxes (and also from looking at the ones you've recently posted), I'd have said that there's no way I could do anything like that anytime soon. But seeing each step broken down makes me realize that it's not difficult when you take it one step at a time and that I could make boxes like these with less time than I previously thought.




Now that is the attitude to have. I CAN DO IT!!!!!!!

Reactions: Like 3


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## Mike1950

Also Matt- that 2" curly I sent would make this box. Box is 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 tall. 12 x 9 not that those numbers are cut in stone. I sent that piece with that in mind. If you resaw you have the bookmatch to have even flow around box. I do not do that always but it makes a difference. Good luck.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Sprung

That 2" piece of curly you sent is a really nice piece. As soon as I pulled it out of the box, I knew that I will eventually resaw it and build Katy a jewelry box out of it - with bookmatches, because the bookmatched grain/figure flow around a box is just plain awesome.

And thanks for the size on the boxes! I hadn't thought to ask. I think one of the keys to a successful project is getting the proportions/sizing right and your boxes have that.

Come December I'm (hopefully) building boxes!

Reactions: Like 2


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## Mike1950

Sprung said:


> That 2" piece of curly you sent is a really nice piece. As soon as I pulled it out of the box, I knew that I will eventually resaw it and build Katy a jewelry box out of it - with bookmatches, because the bookmatched grain/figure flow around a box is just plain awesome.
> 
> And thanks for the size on the boxes! I hadn't thought to ask. I think one of the keys to a successful project is getting the proportions/sizing right and your boxes have that.
> 
> Come December I'm (hopefully) building boxes!




Ps- you need to thank Tom for the link- he is the one that asked.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Sprung

Mike1950 said:


> Ps- you need to thank Tom for the link- he is the one that asked.



I'll have to do that! (And maybe I should start looking around more of the threads, especially the classroom threads, that were from before I joined.)

Reactions: Like 3


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## manbuckwal

Mike1950 said:


> Ps- you need to thank Tom for the link- he is the one that asked.


lol no thanks needed . I like the "New Posts" feature at the top of the home page !!! I believe that's how I stumbled upon your beautiful boxes Mike

Reactions: Like 2


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## TMAC

Mike I found this thread and really enjoyed it. One question I can't get in my head is how you set up the correct angles for the jig on the tablesaw to cut the cove in the box. Is there an easy way or is it just a matter of trial and error to get it figured out. I bought a curly board from you a while back and I was thinking about resawing and giving this a shot.
Thanks
Tim


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## Mike1950

TMAC said:


> Mike I found this thread and really enjoyed it. One question I can't get in my head is how you set up the correct angles for the jig on the tablesaw to cut the cove in the box. Is there an easy way or is it just a matter of trial and error to get it figured out. I bought a curly board from you a while back and I was thinking about resawing and giving this a shot.
> Thanks
> Tim



Tim- I started making coves this way to match a vanity drawer of Kathies and make bedroom furniture to match. What I do is get a nice straight board- something smooth-1"+-. If my stock is 7/8's I like to leave 3/16-1/4 minimum at thinest part. I set board on table at angle I guess will work and about where it is supposed to be in relation to blade- Put the blade up at 1/2 and put your glued box on the table against the board- like you would if you are running it through. get on the backside and see how it sights up- You can look down the table and the blade will obscure the future cut out.. With this trial and error you will get cove you want.. The less angle on fence board the wider the cove the closer the blade gets parallel to fence board the narrower the cove. When you do it make 2 boxes the same size- one crummy wood and one with what you want to use. Test. When you do it you will get a smile- lot easier then it sounds. Facing the saw I would guess it is somewhere between 45-60 degrees to the front edge of saw. If you need I will picture it for you guys.........

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

here is a picture of approx. angle on saw. Of course I clamp at both ends. Another thing that makes these boxes are the legs. all done with router. top is also router except the one in second pic is done with table saw. (walnut on bottom) Hope it helps- ask questions???? First group I am building.

Reactions: Like 2 | EyeCandy! 2


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## TMAC

Thanks Mike. That makes sense. I can do that. This is really a great thread. Beautiful boxes. You really have talent.
Tim

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

You can- it will surprise you they are easy. Talent? I do not know about that but I am OLD, patient and very persistent............... PS. I love making boxes- little changes and they are different.
If anybody building these needs info- just post here, I will answer.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Hawker 1

Question on the cove blade do you have it in a different table ? Looks to be to wide to fit a standard table saw slot.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

Robert, I use a different insert but same saw. I would try it with a blade first, I did. I still would us a blade if I wanted a wider cove. Blade is 10 and cove cutter is 8" I think. The big thing with coves is take little bites. If it seems hard - reduce the amount you are cutting. Be sure to ask any questions in this thread. You probably will be asking something someone else is wondering. Good luck and you CAN do this, M

PS cove blade is only about 1/2 inch wide. I think you need to go back thru whole thread, M


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## manbuckwal

Never get tired of seeing these beautiful boxes !!!!!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950

manbuckwal said:


> Never get tired of seeing these beautiful boxes !!!!!




Thanks you Tom- I never get tired of making them. I love rounded flatwork. Just something about that profile. Fed ex says you got mail today!!!


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## manbuckwal

Mike1950 said:


> Thanks you Tom- I never get tired of making them. I love rounded flatwork. Just something about that profile. Fed ex says you got mail today!!!


I don't think I will get tired of u making em either lol . Yes I got the wood today, thanks !!! Saved me from finding the other thread lol

Reactions: Like 1


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## Hawker 1

Where did you find the corner clamps ? I have search several sites and have not seen anything like them plus not cheap.
2. what size router 1/4 or 1/2 shanks are you using?
3. Have you ever used a 45 router bit with a locking cut ? I saw one on one of the sites . looked interesting .
Thanks.


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## Mike1950

1 i use cheap corner clamps
2 I use both
3 no but it might work great
4 many ways to skin the same cat. Figure out what works best for you. that will be the right way.


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## Hawker 1

The corner clamps you show I cannot find them anywhere and the ones many show are not the same and about $25 each. Can you tell me where you purchased yours. Thanks


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## Mike1950

The kids got me those robert- they are just cheap corner clamps but effective- Google-Home depot corner clamp You will get a bunch of choices some under 10 bucks.
https://www.google.com/search?q=hom...j4&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8


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## Hawker 1

Getting closer to trying the box build info.
One question would positioning the saw at 45 angle produce a smother cut due to more blade teeth surface . I have not tried it yet on scrap , I don't have any yet, and waiting on my stopsaw to arrive . Just thought maybe you had tried it . Thanks.


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## Mike1950

Hawker 1 said:


> Getting closer to trying the box build info.
> One question would positioning the saw at 45 angle produce a smother cut due to more blade teeth surface . I have not tried it yet on scrap , I don't have any yet, and waiting on my stopsaw to arrive . Just thought maybe you had tried it . Thanks.



I am not exactly sure what your ? is robert?? The blade type would affect the smoothnest of the cut more then the angle of the blade.


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## Twig Man

Thanks Mike for forwarding this to me. Could you tell me how to make the jig for splining?


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## Mike1950

I will get you a couple pictures- pretty simple and crude.


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## JR Parks

Mike,
I had not seen this classroom. Just went try the whole thing. Loved it! Thanks for taking the time. Jim

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## GeorgeS

I'm still a newbie and running into all kinds of really cool older posts here. Mike you're boxes are absolutely beautiful! I may have missed it in the post but do you have any details on that peice you are using to cut the coves on the table saw?


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## Mike1950

Thanks @GeorgeS - I think what you are looking for is in post 33.


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## GeorgeS

I think someone thing isn't working right for me. I see two attachments but it's like its shows up like this [attachment=8506].


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## Mike1950

Should be able to go to the bottom of post and click on picture. Let me know if it works. @GeorgeS


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## GeorgeS

Thanks Mike, I see the pic. I guess my brains a little fuzzy and I should have been a little more clear in what I was looking for. Do you have the specifics on it as in the name of such a tool and maybe who makes them? Do they come in different sizes? That's a very cool blade!


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## Mike1950

GeorgeS said:


> Thanks Mike, I see the pic. I guess my brains a little fuzzy and I should have been a little more clear in what I was looking for. Do you have the specifics on it as in the name of such a tool and maybe who makes them? Do they come in different sizes? That's a very cool blade!


 
I think I bought it at Rockler. CMT cove cutter. Only one size that I know of but you can change the shape and size of cove with a different angle. A regular blade will work though. Just a little more sanding.


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## GeorgeS

Thank you sir!

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## gimpy

Mike1950 said:


> Above- I clamp with cheap corner clamps to keep stable while clamping. They are cheap and work. Any questions or steps that need clarifying please ask- otherwise this all is a waste. My philosophy is the only stupid question is the one that is not asked........... Here is my helper -she is very efficient at putting the clamps I just got out back in box- having gramps spin her in chair, playing in sawdust and escaping gramma every chance she gets and making a dash to the shop.
> 
> [attachment=8294]
> 
> Here is the tool I will be testing- I hope it does what it is supposed to- came today.
> 
> [attachment=8295]



What is the name of the tool


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## Mike1950

Tel


gimpy said:


> What is the name of the tool


l me what post you are asking About Terry?


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## gimpy

Mike1950 said:


> Tel
> 
> l me what post you are asking About Terry?


the cove cutting tool, also, how deep do you make the cove, or do you max out when it is at the highest ............just don't want to cut the cove all the way through

Reactions: Like 1


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## gimpy

Very nice Tutorial, thank you for sharing

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mike1950

gimpy said:


> the cove cutting tool, also, how deep do you make the cove, or do you max out when it is at the highest ............just don't want to cut the cove all the way through



I raise the blade 1/16" or less each pass. Usually stop when I like the look but if in doubt use a straight edge to figure out how much wood you have left.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Chris Neeley

Great read Mike, very nice build!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## gimpy

Hey Mike, keep the threads coming, really informative. Getting ready to starstart making some boxes myself here soon


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