# Acorn squirrel call tutorial



## BrentWin

I posted a picture of a acorn squirrel call that I make. It got several nice comments, so I thought I would put together a little tutorial on how I make them. They are a fun little call to make and aren't very difficult to do.

First I'll state that I don't like taking a bunch of measurements. I like to take a block of wood and cut away everything that's not a call. So all my calls tend to vary from call to call. I let the guys on TV, with the beards, make thousands of calls that are all identical. So I won't give you many measurements in this tutorial and the ones that I do will be of the "or there abouts" nature.


First I start with a 2" x 2" blank and drill it out 1/2". In this case I am using some cherry that I got in a trade with Sprucegum. 

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0279_zps9c0d7525.jpg

After it's drilled, I mount it of a mandrel in my collet chuck and round it off.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0282_zps65147405.jpg

Next, I use a parting tool to cut in the area where the nut and the hull come together.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0284_zps0f5985b7.jpg

I then use a round nose scraper and a skew to shape the body of the nut.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0286_zpsa58ad95a.jpg

If you look an acorn, the hull tapers into the nut. So I use a skew to taper the front and back of the hull.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0288_zpsa04603d7.jpg

Next I texture the hull. I use a Dremel tool with an 1/8" burr.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0297_zps40c51886.jpg

The easiest way to do this is with the call still on the mandrel. Work on the area from the 10 o'clock to 11 o'clock position and rotate the call as you progress around. You want to be deliberately random it in your pattern and push the burr firmly into the wood so that it burns more than it cuts.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0291_zps8c329bd8.jpg

You are going to let the tool slip and touch the nut on occasion, like at 12 o'clock on this picture. This is no big deal. You can clean it up with your skew.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0293_zpsf570ac6f.jpg

Now it time to sand. I use 120, 220 and finish with 400. A little trick is sand the bottom of the hull with 120 only. This will leave the grain open so that the varnish will soak in and make it about the same color as the textured part of the hull. You can texture the bottom if you want, but the bellows will hide most of it anyway.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0294_zpseb0a2756.jpg

Now it's time for that swim in the spar jar and hanging to dry.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0296_zps18f279aa.jpg

That's as far as I can go today. I'm still waiting for the postman to deliver my reeds and bellows. I'll continue this when I get them. So far, I have about an hour and a half in these 5.


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## Dane Fuller

Thanks, man. I'm very interested to see how the working end goes together.


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## woodtickgreg

Very nice tutorial.  Cool to see how some of these calls are made.


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## justturnin

Our little Squirrel visitor, Lucky, thinks they look delicious. Too bad we will be letting him go when the rain passes. He is pretty cool to hold.


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## Wildthings

That is a cool little dude!! What's the story behind him?


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## Wildthings

BrentWin said:


> I'm still waiting for the postman to deliver my reeds and bellows. I'll continue this when I get them.



Surely that postman has come and gone by now!! LOL


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## BrentWin

goslin99 said:


> Wildthings said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting for the postman to deliver my reeds and bellows. I'll continue this when I get them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Surely that postman has come and gone by now!! LOL
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Ha ha... left us hangin didnt he??
Click to expand...


The wheels of justice turn slowly and the wheels of the USPS turn even slower. I got my parts in today and should have something posted maybe tonight, tomorrow night at the latest.

Don't give me to much crap. They made you wait 6 months to find out who shot JR. (I fully realize that alot of the people reading this are going to say JR who!) 

Brent


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## rdnkmedic

Good thing you showed back up. They were beginning to beat you up pretty bad. If it it had gone on much longer I was going to try to defend you but I don't think it would have helped much. Rough crowd!


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## BrentWin

Tonights schedule:

Turning the insert to connect the bellows to the acorn.

Gluing in the insert sleeve

Blading the reeds

Final assembly

Brent


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## BrentWin

goslin99 said:


> BrentWin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tonights schedule:
> 
> Turning the insert to connect the bellows to the acorn.
> 
> Gluing in the insert sleeve
> 
> Blading the reeds
> 
> Final assembly
> 
> Brent
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait... perhaps we should get this on youtube...
> 
> Two problems with that:
> 
> 1.) No video equipment.
> 
> 2.) Someone might see the god awful mess in my garage/workshop, thus making my wife embarrassed/angry. And as we all know, if momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. :dash2:
Click to expand...


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## Wildthings

Not ragging on anybody but got the thread fired up again heh? :cool2:


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## rdnkmedic

We are all waiting patiently................


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## BrentWin

Ok, thanks for waiting patiently.

First we are going to make the insert. You could save a little time and just use 3/4" dowel to start, but I just use scraps that I have laying around.

This is a piece of hedge scrap. First I drill a 1/2" hole about 1/2" deep. Then I continue drilling thru the piece with a 9/32" bit. On this piece, I drilled off center so that the bad side of the block will be turned away.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0382_zps90eef876.jpg

I then slide the block onto a 1/2" mandrel and use my live center to hold it tight against the mandrel.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0383_zps42235590.jpg

I just turn it down until half the rod is 1/2" and the other is 3/4" I also cut a 1/8" wide groove about 3/16" away from the transition from one size and the other. This is for the ridge on the inside of the bellows to seat in.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0385_zpsa8f9b57a.jpg

Now I just turn the piece off with the point of a skew. Here's what I end up with.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0362_zps7e2d1aa0.jpg

Now it's time to glue in the reed sleeve. I like to use a couple of drops of super glue and just push the insert in. Make sure that the end of the sleeve with the rings is point towards the larger end of the insert.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0375_zpsf4fbfa52.jpg

I like to recess it in a little bit. No particular reason, I just do.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0377_zps2bc14e06.jpg

Next I take the nut and use a kitchen skewer to spread a little epoxy on the inside.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0379_zpsbccd6c1d.jpg

I clamp the insert and nut together and now it's time to work on the reed. I get my sleeves, reeds and bellows from Al over at THO Game Calls. The reeds and bellows come in a kit. You buy the sleeves separately.

You will need to "blade" the reeds to get them to sound right. Simply slide a razor blade between the reed and the metal holder of the reed assembly and gently tilt the out about 5 degrees. Go a little at a time until you find the right amount. If you bend the reed to far, there's no going back so you might order a couple of extra reeds until you get the hang of it. Sorry for the pic being a little out of focus


http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0368_zpsd17d2896.jpg

Now it's just a matter of sliding the reed assembly into the sleeve and sliding on the bellows. Here's a pic of all the components before assembly. On the right is a handy little tool for installing the reed. You can get them from the All Predator Calls web sight for less than $2.00


http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0400_zps0c129f50.jpg




Here's the finished product(s)

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0396_zpsc54ef999.jpg

This was put together quickly tonight and I'll sure that I didn't explain everything well. Let me know if you have any questions.

Brent


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## Wildthings

Brent I've been messing with you a bit but honestly appreciate your time in this and sharing it with us. Can you show us a picture of the call without the bellows on it?


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## rdnkmedic

That was very cool. Good pictures and great explanations. I too would like to see it without the bellows. Great job.


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## BrentWin

Wildthings said:


> Brent I've been messing with you a bit but honestly appreciate your time in this and sharing it with us. Can you show us a picture of the call without the bellows on it?



No problem, I'm glad that I can help others. Now that the web is such a part of life, we take for granted how much information is shared and is right at our finger tips. I know that it would take months and driving to dozens call maker's shops all over the country to pick up the info that can be picked up with just a few hours surfing call building sights.

I updated my original post with a little more explanation and a pic of the call without the bellows installed.

If I need to add anything else, please let me know. I want this to be helpful to you.


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## rdnkmedic

There is a bit of a learning curve here but I managed to make an acorn squirrel call this past weekend using this tutorial. The basic steps are provided and I was able to turn it out..

And.....it even makes a noise that sounds somewhat like a squirrel. Sometimes I even impress myself. 

Thanks Brent. I studied this thing for a couple of days, ordered my parts and made it happen. It was really fun to do. Got 9 more kits to practice with. Don't worry, I'm not going to be any competition.

I will get a picture up tonight.


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## BrentWin

rdnkmedic said:


> There is a bit of a learning curve here but I managed to make an acorn squirrel call this past weekend using this tutorial. The basic steps are provided and I was able to turn it out..
> 
> And.....it even makes a noise that sounds somewhat like a squirrel. Sometimes I even impress myself.
> 
> Thanks Brent. I studied this thing for a couple of days, ordered my parts and made it happen. It was really fun to do. Got 9 more kits to practice with. Don't worry, I'm not going to be any competition.
> 
> I will get a picture up tonight.



Glad that I could help. They are a fun little project and sell like hot cakes, mostly to people that have no intention of ever hunting with them.

Brent


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## rdnkmedic

[attachment=30801]

Here's my first attempt at a couple of things. First an acorn squirrel call and second a CA finish. Didn't have a Dremel to dress the cap but the walnut speaks for itself. Thanks again, Brent. 

Melanie bought me a Dremel after she saw this. So, I learned something new and got a new tool. Pretty good day overall.

Reactions: Like 1


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## BrentWin

goslin99 said:


> Hey Brent... me again..
> 
> Can you show how you mount the reeds in the sleeve? I have been sliding the reed in the sleeve to where it is completely enclosed, but yours looks like the reed will be extending into the bellow..??
> 
> Reason I'm asking is I made a predator call the other night for my pops (closed reed). One of many ive made, but had an issue. Was really laying down on it to give it its test run, and the reed flew out in my hand! In the past I felt the sleeve offered enough compression that I didnt need to glue, but I see you add your reed after the sleeve is in. Do you epoxy the reed in the sleeve?
> 
> Confused??



Dave,

I don't glue the reed into the sleeve. You need to be able to replace or clean the reed occasionally. What size are you drilling the hole to insert the sleeve? It should be 9/32". That should compress the sleeve enough to not allow the reed to push through.

I insert my reeds so they are about flush with the end of the sleeve. Also, be sure that the end of the sleeve with the two rings is pointed towards the mouth end of the call. I have had reeds in the past that were a little undersized. I just take a knife blade and spread apart the seam at the bottom of the reed a tiny bit. It doesn't take but a hair.

Hope this helps.

Brent


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## BrentWin

rdnkmedic said:


> Here's my first attempt at a couple of things. First an acorn squirrel call and second a CA finish. Didn't have a Dremel to dress the cap but the walnut speaks for itself. Thanks again, Brent.
> 
> Melanie bought me a Dremel after she saw this. So, I learned something new and got a new tool. Pretty good day overall.



Great job! Have fun with the dremel and remember when you are doing the hull that the faster and more random you go, the better it will look.


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## justturnin

rdnkmedic said:


> ....but the walnut speaks for itself.....



Looks more like an Acorn than a Walnut but not bad for a first try  

Awesome Job.


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## justturnin

goslin99 said:


> Finally got out and made one.



Looks awesome. Ganna have to get some kits to try this out. You guys are inspiring me.


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## BrentWin

Looks great Dave! You have learned well grasshopper


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## rdnkmedic

Brent, when you say the acorns go for a "swim in the spar jar" are you just dunking them in the spar varnish and hanging to drip dry? I know there are lots of ways to finish them but this would be much quicker if you were making 8 or 10 at a time. 

So, exactly how do you finish? Thanks


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## BrentWin

rdnkmedic said:


> Brent, when you say the acorns go for a "swim in the spar jar" are you just dunking them in the spar varnish and hanging to drip dry? I know there are lots of ways to finish them but this would be much quicker if you were making 8 or 10 at a time.
> 
> So, exactly how do you finish? Thanks



Yes, I dip all my calls in spar varnish that has been thinned 50% with mineral spirits. 

I typically dip squirrel calls a couple of times with 24 hrs. and a light sanding with 400 grit in between "swims".

Duck calls get 4 dips with the same time and sanding in between. And yes, its a lot more efficient to do several at a time.



http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF0296_zps18f279aa.jpg


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## rdnkmedic

Thanks for all the help.


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## BrentWin

I want to keep you guys abreast of innovations in the fast paced world of mast crop imitation/tree bourn rodent attraction devices. Tonight I started using 5/8" delrin rod instead of wood for the inserts in my call.

They are a lot faster to make. After a few R&D trial runs, I can turn these out in about 2 minutes and they are ready to install. No waiting for the finish to dry before installation.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1426_zps1f7e11d8.jpg

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1429_zps3dca22bb.jpg

And of course, there's no change in the outside appearance.

http://i146.Rule #2/albums/r279/brentwin/DSCF1431_zps16c61cdc.jpg


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## Wildthings

BrentWin said:


> mast crop imitation/tree bourn rodent attraction devices.



Now that is some funny stuff right there!! :teethlaugh:


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## BrentWin

I get mine from Grainger. I think it runs me about $12 for a 6' stick. I also use it to make gutserts for grunt calls.


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## rdnkmedic

Thanks for the update.


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## Woodman

I really enjoyed this thread and love these acorn calls. I learn something new each time I log on.

Reactions: Like 1


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