# End Grain Cutting Boards, A couple questions



## Schroedc (Dec 9, 2014)

So I'm spending a few days on flat work here at the shop and had a bunch of oak and walnut cutoffs all the same size so I glued up a big slab, cut it into strips and made some end grain cheese blocks. (Not all too big but for a first project like this they were big enough)

My questions- 

1) How fine do those of you that do a bunch of them sand these before applying a finish? I've got them to 220 on the drum sander and just wondering how far to go.

2) Finishing them, I have a can of Watco butcher block oil on the shelf. Is this a decent finish or should I be looking for something else to use on them?

Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Reactions: Like 4 | EyeCandy! 2 | Way Cool 1


----------



## barry richardson (Dec 9, 2014)

220 is what I sand to. Not sure what's in the butcher block oil, but I use mineral oil/wax mixture. About 3 parts oil to one part paraffin or bees wax melted together, usually do the first coat with straight mineral oil for deeper penetration...

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


----------



## Tom Smart (Dec 9, 2014)

I sand mine to 80 grit on the drum sander and then to 320 with a RO sander. I don't go further on the drum sander just because it's too dang hard to change the rolls (and I'm a bit lazy about it). Then mineral oil, followed by something with beeswax/mineral oil, either butchers block conditioner or Claphams. 320 may be over kill. I just spent a weekend at a craft fair watching everyone that walked past run their fingers across the boards, then tell me they were too pretty to cut on and move on.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Kevin (Dec 9, 2014)

Tom Smart said:


> I just spent a weekend at a craft fair watching everyone that walked past run their fingers across the boards, then tell me they were too pretty to cut on and move on.



Stop calling them cutting boards. Sell them as "Looking At Boards".

Reactions: Funny 3


----------



## Tom Smart (Dec 9, 2014)

Kevin said:


> Stop calling them cutting boards. Sell them as "Looking At Boards".


I offered to "antique" them while they waited. 

I did manage sell 2, though. My interpretation of MTM's "chaotic pattern" board sold to another vendor before the opening bell and my son-in-law bought one for his mother for Christmas, so I was kinda forced into the "friends and family" pricing option.

Reactions: +Karma 1


----------



## cabomhn (Dec 9, 2014)

I have used the butcher block conditioner finish as the last couple cutting boards I did and I"m really happy with how the boards look and feel, with a nice food-safe finish on them. I would recommend!


----------



## Kevin (Dec 9, 2014)

Tom Smart said:


> ...My interpretation of MTM's "chaotic pattern" board sold to another vendor before the opening bell ....



That's cool Tom. I watched this one over coffee this a.m. I need to learn my CNC good enough to do this . . .

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## cabomhn (Dec 9, 2014)

Kevin said:


> That's cool Tom. I watched this one over coffee this a.m. I need to learn my CNC good enough to do this . . .



That's awesome Kevin, totally am making one of these in the spring when I"m back at the woodshop with the CNC. However, I'd really have to see if there was a way to better preserve the rich colors, the final result is kind of bland in comparison. I would rather have one of these done in lacquer and hung on the wall I think!


----------



## Tom Smart (Dec 9, 2014)

Kevin said:


> I watched this one over coffee this a.m. I need to learn my CNC good enough to do this...


How cool is that!? I watched him do the British flag some time ago and that was complicated.

Gotta agree with Matt, @cabomhn, that would be wall art and not to cut on.


----------



## Kevin (Dec 9, 2014)

@cabomhn I really like the colors of the wood he chose just as it is. Looks antique-ee, but it would also look great hanging on the wall!

@Tom Smart yes that Union Jack was extremely complex.


----------



## Tom Smart (Dec 9, 2014)

I think we have hijacked Colin's thread and request for assistance. (But... it sure would be neat to have a CNC machine.)

Reactions: Agree 1 | Funny 1


----------



## cabomhn (Dec 9, 2014)

Kevin said:


> @cabomhn I really like the colors of the wood he chose just as it is. Looks antique-ee, but it would also look great hanging on the wall!
> 
> @Tom Smart yes that Union Jack was extremely complex.



I didn't mean to sound like I am saying his final result is bad in any means! I do like that more rustic look, but part of me loves those vibrant colors too. Each part in my mind represents a different part of what the flag represents, at least in how I envision it.


----------



## shadetree_1 (Dec 9, 2014)

Schroedc said:


> So I'm spending a few days on flat work here at the shop and had a bunch of oak and walnut cutoffs all the same size so I glued up a big slab, cut it into strips and made some end grain cheese blocks. (Not all too big but for a first project like this they were big enough)
> 
> My questions-
> 
> ...



Now those are nice!


----------



## Schroedc (Dec 9, 2014)

I never mind the hijacks. I've gotten some great info. If all goes well I'll be finishing a bunch of flat work to pay the bills tomorrow and I can finish a pepper mill that's all drilled out and just waiting to be turned to final shape.


----------



## Kevin (Dec 9, 2014)

Sorry Colin I got carried away. But it does keep the thread coming up to the top!

Reactions: Funny 1


----------



## Kevin (Dec 9, 2014)

Colin I'm pretty sure the 3D top portion of the box I made for you was sanded to 400 if that helps. Just remember the honeylocust portion was very porous so different species give different effects especially end grain.

Reactions: Informative 1


----------



## Tony (Dec 9, 2014)

I drum sand to 220, then hit mine with 220 on the RO, seems to be fine. I sold a record (for me anyway) number of them this Craft Show season, so they can't suck too bad

I soak mine in straight mineral oil for 2 days, let them dry, them topcoat with a 3-1 mix like Barry does. Keep up with the flat work!!!!! Tony


----------



## frankp (Dec 10, 2014)

I like that MTM video but disagree with the assertion (in the video) that the stars would be impossible without a cnc. Difficult certainly, but far from impossible. You could easily make them through and through cut outs and fill with a star-shaped "dowels" that were cut on a tablesaw or bandsaw. 

To the OP, I've only made a few cutting boards and started with sanding to 300 on my first. After use, I decided that was unnecessary and cut back to 220. I've considered just going to 150. I only use wipe on mineral oil for finishing mine. I don't bother with the wax but it will help them last longer between refinishes.


----------



## TimR (Dec 10, 2014)

frankp said:


> I like that MTM video but disagree with the assertion (in the video) that the stars would be impossible without a cnc. Difficult certainly, but far from impossible. You could easily make them through and through cut outs and fill with a star-shaped "dowels" that were cut on a tablesaw or bandsaw.


I've never made a cutting board...yet, but as I was watching, it's the stars I was most curious how he would do. I think you're right that it's not impossible to do with crispcornered stars. Until I saw him use the CNC, I expected perhaps either one of two ways...drill out then use a special star shaped mortiser. Your comment about the star shaped dowel would then work perfect. 
Short of a star shaped mortiser, perhaps just a 36 degree mortiser for each point. Not sure if such a thing as a CNC mortiser...but who knows.


----------



## Tony (Dec 10, 2014)

frankp said:


> I don't bother with the wax but it will help them last longer between refinishes.



Honestly, the main reason I do the beeswax topcoat is it really brightens the color in all the woods I use. Really makes them stand out as compared to just mineral oil. Just my 2 cents worth! Tony

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


----------

