# In need of help



## Casey Botts (Dec 5, 2018)

I am making my first pot call. This morning I layed the glass soundboard on the pedestal and tried an aluminum playing surface (unconditioned), a copper (unconditioned), and slate (unconditioned) to see what it would sound like. eventually i got the sound I was after with the slate and somewhat with the copper. When I glued the soundboard in place I tried again to make sure it still sounded right, before glueing the playing surface in. I got a squeeky turkey sound from the slate and a dying turkey sound from the copper. The aluminum was very hard to get a sound at all. I re-examined the setup and the glass is very close to the sides of the pot. Do you guys think if I took a little more material off the sides of the pot the sound would improve?


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## TurkeyHunter (Dec 6, 2018)

Yea, your not going to get what you want without gluing. It is going to change. Glue the sound board (Goop or E6000 - I use) and either clamp or use a can of soup to weight the sound board in place until the glue dries (I use spring clamps). I leave it clamped for at least 24 hours to ensure the glue is fully cured. Make sure the edge of the sound board is not touching the edge of the pot. Then repeat for playing (striking) surface. Only after they have been glued into place and surface conditioned will you really know what your call sounds like. As dimensions change so does the sound of the call. I am still picking up/learning things (trial and error) so maybe some of the other who do it seriously (i.e. as a serious business) can chime in. I am just a diehard turkey hunter and make calls as people request and for friends.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 3 | Informative 3


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## The100road (Dec 6, 2018)

Think you nailed it @TurkeyHunter

Reactions: Thank You! 2


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## Hammonds (Dec 7, 2018)

It has all to do with the type of wood, soft or hard wood , and the width of the shelf lip the top surface is glued to. Softer wood like sycamore need just a little wider glue lip and a hard wood like osage orange just a little narrower glue lip. Its all about learning to read the wood. It does take some trial and error. Keep notes of the type of wood and the thickness of the pot and the width of the top surface glue lip. Slate, glass and copper are all going to have a different sound. That being said....The surface lip has to be adjusted to comply with the used surface. I hope that helps.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1 | Informative 1


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## Casey Botts (Dec 9, 2018)

Sorry about the late reply to you guys. I have been busier than normal with duck season in full swing round here. I am gluing them down right now. I will let you know how it goes. Just for reference the pot is made from curly walnut.

Reactions: Like 1


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## TurkeyHunter (Dec 9, 2018)

Casey Botts said:


> Sorry about the late reply to you guys. I have been busier than normal with duck season in full swing round here. I am gluing them down right now. I will let you know how it goes. Just for reference the pot is made from curly walnut.


Post photos


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## Casey Botts (Dec 9, 2018)

This is where I am now. I removed the soundboard and replied. I made sure the soundboard wasn’t touching the sides ( they are super close). I am hoping to do either copper or aluminum playing surface.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Casey Botts (Dec 9, 2018)

Sorry. I didn’t reply. I reglued the soundboard.

Reactions: Like 1


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## myingling (Dec 10, 2018)

looks ;like your on your way ,,, if that call dont sound right i would get little more space around the sound board

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## TurkeyHunter (Dec 10, 2018)

That pot looks good. I would for sure make the shelf for the striking surface narrower. Be very careful when you glue in the surface. I would use a VERY small amount of glue right next to the veryoutside edge. When you set your surface in place and put weight on it you could get some glue squeeze out. If it touches the soundboard your sound is toast. . Also, from my experience trying to get a 3-1/2” copper to sound right has been a pain. I have read (after my 2-3 attempts at copper in 3-1/2”) that a deep pot will sound hollow. IT DOES. I found a (the) sound I want in my 3” copper but not the 3-1/2”. If your pedestal is tall (over .2”) I would recommend going with aluminum. Also the distance between the sound board and surface makes a difference. Read some of the tutorials in the game call forum (THO Game Calls) and read the topic: copper call questions.

Also look here for a beginning for pots.https://www.shipleysoutdoors.com/Plans& Directions/Friction-Pot-Dimensions-II.pdf

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## Casey Botts (Dec 10, 2018)

Thanks guys. https://woodbarter.com/members/turkeyhunter.5720/ I am glad you mentioned Shipley’s, because that’s where I got my pattern. I have also been reading the THO forum to get a little insight. Thanks again. I will keep you posted as I make progress.


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## B Rogers (Dec 10, 2018)

TurkeyHunter said:


> That pot looks good. I would for sure make the shelf for the striking surface narrower. Be very careful when you glue in the surface. I would use a VERY small amount of glue right next to the veryoutside edge. When you set your surface in place and put weight on it you could get some glue squeeze out. If it touches the soundboard your sound is toast. . Also, from my experience trying to get a 3-1/2” copper to sound right has been a pain. I have read (after my 2-3 attempts at copper in 3-1/2”) that a deep pot will sound hollow. IT DOES. I found a (the) sound I want in my 3” copper but not the 3-1/2”. If your pedestal is tall (over .2”) I would recommend going with aluminum. Also the distance between the sound board and surface makes a difference. Read some of the tutorials in the game call forum (THO Game Calls) and read the topic: copper call questions.
> 
> Also look here for a beginning for pots.https://www.shipleysoutdoors.com/Plans& Directions/Friction-Pot-Dimensions-II.pdf


I use old medicine syringes we got from the pharmacy with the kids' liquid medicine. Put the GOOP in there and use to apply on your shelf for the playing surface. Nice and neat and you can get it just down in the corner so it squeezes out vs in toward the soundboard. Then squeeze a little of the GOOP out the syringe and let it dry to prevent the remaining from drying in the syringe. If it does eventually dry, it's easy to get out.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Casey Botts (Dec 10, 2018)

Thanks B.


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## Casey Botts (Dec 21, 2018)

I finally finished my call. All the suggestions you guys gave me took care of the issue. I think my biggest issue was; the soundboard was too close to the sides of the call. Thanks a million.

Reactions: Like 5 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 1


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## Ray D (Dec 21, 2018)

Looks great. How does it sound? In my honest opinion, copper is not the most forgiving playing surface....though some guys love it.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Casey Botts (Dec 21, 2018)

After I made the corrections mentioned above it sounds pretty good. Has a slightly higher pitch than the slate call and the aluminum call B. Rogers made for me, but overall I am pleased.


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## Casey Botts (Dec 21, 2018)

By the way the tip from B Rogers on the medicine dropper turns out to be a great hack, if you guys didn’t know about it.


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