# Deer Call making video



## Vector (May 8, 2013)

Here's a video a gentleman offered to help me make this past fall. As you can guess from the quality of his work, we have became pretty darn good friends since putting this all together!

I've never spent so much time on a chunk of wood turning it into a call (though you will see it come to life in just a couple minutes...... :wacko1: ) but it is sure cool to have this to look back on. 

PLEASE do not take this video as an advertisement. It was made so Andy could test his video editing skills, and I could get a nice recording of how I do my work.

The only big thing I have been called out on so far was my not dropping the bandsaw down to the proper level prior to doing my cutting! Dang it, I wish I would have caught that! :dash2: 

I hope you enjoy it.

[video=vimeo]http://vimeo.com/49253716[/video]

Vince


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## Kevin (May 8, 2013)

Vince can't watch the video right now but I embedded it for you. Search the site "how to embed videos". Thanks.


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## Vector (May 8, 2013)

Thanks for your help Kevin!

Vince


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## WoodLove (May 8, 2013)

Vince, nice video and nice calls..... I like the torched look..... pretty cool.


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## NeilYeag (May 9, 2013)

Vince is the turkey in the Video your production supervisor? He looks intense watching you.


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## Vector (May 9, 2013)

NeilYeag said:


> Vince is the turkey in the Video your production supervisor? He looks intense watching you.



 No doubt!

Andy (the video's shooting and producer) wanted it in the video as another example of my wood working.

Vince


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## ssgmeader (May 10, 2013)

Great video. How'd you come up with the torching idea? And what are you using for the dipping method?


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## Vector (May 10, 2013)

I can't really say I came up with the torching idea by any means. I've seen 'flamed hedge' calls on store shelves for a long time, so.....I'd say......8ish years ago, I bought a little propane torch as a way to put a quick burn on hedge. 

(I used to just buy things and hope they worked out, because this wonderous inter-web wasn't quite kicking enough to save me tons of experimenting time and money like it helps us do these days!)

It has lasted great. I'm still on my first starter, and probably on only my 5th or 6th bottle of fuel in that time, including starting a few wood stoves with it. 

You can vary the look by how long you leave it on any certain spot. If you're light with it, you can really just turn the yellow to orange. A lot of folks like the fully burnt to orange to yellow fade though. 

Also, when you sand, you can sand down through the burn area to lighten it up some too. 

I just play with it from one turning to the next. I do think it is very important to do it by hand, rather than having the lathe turned on. You want the burn to take quickly, as to not heat the overall wood up so much that it decides to crack on you. 

You can use this method for giving purpleheart a REALLY DEEP dark purple too. I like it a lot. And you can fade on it too. 

I have not came across any other woods I've too impressed with a burn on yet though.



As for the finish......One dip in sanding sealer, and then dry. Hand sand. Then, one dip in spar urethane/mineral spirits at a 60/40 mix, and then dry. Hand sand. Then spray spar urethane and let each coat dry, and sand after each coat except the final one......working towards a full, smooth exterior finish.

Easy to coat woods like hedge will only get two shots of spray finish. Some other woods that give me fits coating on certain areas of the turning.....like english walnut for example......may end up needing 3 or 4 shots to be nicely finished. 

This spring, on my cedar pot calls, I have been playing with doing a 20 minute teak oil soak, and letting that dry for 2 days, and then going through the spar routine. It has been turning out very nicely. I'm looking forward to trying it out some more this summer on other woods. 

Vince


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## Graybeard (May 10, 2013)

Thanks for the video, lots of good ideas.

Graybeard


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## Vector (May 10, 2013)

Something else to note out of the video you guys will enjoy using on your wood turnings....the burn lines are placed with a Formica counter top sample card. My buddy Bob taught me that trick a little over a year ago. It is MUCH safer than using any kind of metal wire that can get overly hot, and given the wrong instance, can take a finger off getting wrapped around the lathe.

Bob likes to sharpen the edge of his card, so he can get a really fine burn line, but I think the card thickness is plenty thin for my work. Just have to remember to use the thin side of your parting tool to make a line for the card to catch in. Its too hard to just push the card in the right spot. 

Vince


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## DKMD (May 10, 2013)

Cool video! I've never made calls, but it's something that I think I'd like to try at some point. What kind of mandrel are you using in the headstock?

BTW, you may want to check the thrust bearings on your bandsaw... You seemed to get a lot of blade deflection when cutting those blanks.


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## Vector (May 10, 2013)

David, that blade was horribly dull, and that bandsaw is probably 20-25 years old if I had to guess. I picked it up from my grandfather's shop. I keep pushing it, and it keeps running. I will look into those parts. I have never replaced anything on it. 

The mandrels I use are from Flint Hills Duck Works. Andrew makes a great, solid product. I would suggest the collet chuck setup for someone just jumping in. They were not available when I first started, so all of mine are the MT2 version. I have a collet set as backup's when friends come to play in my shop with me. 

Vince


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## Graybeard (May 11, 2013)

Regarding the bearings, I just replaced mine on my 14 inch Rikon. I found some at an online bearing place. Just measured them up and they had sealed bearings just like them. Much cheaper than from Rikon.

Just a thought if you tear into it.

Graybeard


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