# Threaded Insert Question



## Johnturner (Jan 5, 2020)

Gents

I have to place a threaded insert. It is not the kind you can use an Allen wrench on, it has a slot across the top.
Question the slot is just a bit to wide for any of my screwdrivers. Is there something else I can use?
As Always
Thanks
John

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Spinartist (Jan 5, 2020)

I put them in beer tap handles using a bolt with 2 nuts on it. A screw driver doesn't work well unless you are putting it soft wood.
I've made over 200 taps handles for Lauderale brewery

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## Nature Man (Jan 5, 2020)

Spinartist said:


> I put them in beer tap handles using a bolt with 2 nuts on it. A screw driver doesn't work well unless you are putting it soft wood.
> 
> View attachment 176721


Love the final product, but would you please post a pic of the bolt with 2 nuts configuration next to a threaded insert. Thanks! Chuck


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## Spinartist (Jan 5, 2020)

Nature Man said:


> Love the final product, but would you please post a pic of the bolt with 2 nuts configuration next to a threaded insert. Thanks! Chuck




Yes. I post tomorrow.

Video in next post shows installing using a bolt.


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## Spinartist (Jan 5, 2020)



Reactions: Informative 2 | Useful 1


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## Mr. Peet (Jan 5, 2020)

Nature Man said:


> Love the final product, but would you please post a pic of the bolt with 2 nuts configuration next to a threaded insert. Thanks! Chuck



Chuck,

We may have done it similar to Lee (and the video). We threaded a nut onto the bolt, all the way to the head of the bolt. Used a ratchet to drive the threaded insert in. The nut was there as a safety, in case the insert jammed on the bolt. If that happened, use a ratchet with a wrench to release the bolt and in so releasing all. Some folks use a fender washer to minimize marring the wood. Now, if you want the insert recessed, use a collar spacer on the bolt. Make sure the spacer is a touch smaller in diameter than the insert for best results.


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## Nature Man (Jan 6, 2020)

Mr. Peet said:


> Chuck,
> 
> We may have done it similar to Lee (and the video). We threaded a nut onto the bolt, all the way to the head of the bolt. Used a ratchet to drive the threaded insert in. The nut was there as a safety, in case the insert jammed on the bolt. If that happened, use a ratchet with a wrench to release the bolt and in so releasing all. Some folks use a fender washer to minimize marring the wood. Now, if you want the insert recessed, use a collar spacer on the bolt. Make sure the spacer is a touch smaller in diameter than the insert for best results.


I did notice in the video that the demonstrator didn't seem to care about marring up a 2x4, but my use for threaded inserts is with hardwoods, and I do NOT want to mar their finish. Guess that is where the fender washer comes in. Where is the best place to buy collar spacers in the size you would need to recess the threaded insert. Final question, it appears this method is a one way insertion of the threaded insert, as I do not see a way to reverse or unthread the insert. Chuck

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## Mr. Peet (Jan 6, 2020)

Nature Man said:


> I did notice in the video that the demonstrator didn't seem to care about marring up a 2x4, but my use for threaded inserts is with hardwoods, and I do NOT want to mar their finish. Guess that is where the fender washer comes in. Where is the best place to buy collar spacers in the size you would need to recess the threaded insert. Final question, it appears this method is a one way insertion of the threaded insert, as I do not see a way to reverse or unthread the insert. Chuck



The collar spacers, not sure, 20 years ago, True Value. You might be able to order them at your home town hardware supplier. Grainger might still have them too.

As for the insert, get the ones with the straight slot on one end, so you can use a standard screwdriver to adjust them. Just have to remember to have the slotted side out. The hex headed inserts work better for hardwoods in my opinion. They have a lot more contact surface area material for the driver, and Allen styled bits are commonly available. Little trick I used to do with hardwoods, try it in a test sample. If it was really tough, I'd step up the pilot hole just a size. After that, if I had a really tough one, I'd back it out and use a hand held tapered reamer to scrape just a touch more to make it a bit easier.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Useful 1


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## Johnturner (Jan 6, 2020)

Thanks All!


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## TXMoon (Jan 7, 2020)

Spinartist said:


> I put them in beer tap handles using a bolt with 2 nuts on it. A screw driver doesn't work well unless you are putting it soft wood.
> I've made over 200 taps handles for Lauderale brewery
> 
> View attachment 176721


Those are cool!!

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Spinartist (Jan 8, 2020)

TXMoon said:


> Those are cool!!




When you're in Ft. Lauderdale stop by & have a beer. They have some interesting flavors.

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## TXMoon (Jan 8, 2020)

Spinartist said:


> When you're in Ft. Lauderdale stop by & have a beer. They have some interesting flavors.


They don't like me in places like that. When asked what "flavor" beer I want I tell them I want "Beer flavored Beer."

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## Graybeard (Jan 9, 2020)

I've been told the slit side goes in first to help cut threads. true or myth?


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## Mr. Peet (Jan 9, 2020)

Graybeard said:


> I've been told the slit side goes in first to help cut threads. true or myth?



I depends on the direction of the outside threads. Some brands offer both, right handed and left handed external threads. Sometimes instead of a pocket, you drill the hole all the way through the wood, to have access to the insert from either side.


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## JerseyHighlander (Feb 6, 2020)

Graybeard said:


> I've been told the slit side goes in first to help cut threads. true or myth?


Never heard of such a thing. When I used to use those in a fabrication shop many moons ago, there was a driver made specifically for them. Essentially a steel dowel with screwdriver flats off the side. The dowel would fit inside the threaded section, and keep it aligned square and prevent the driver from slipping out. Worked well. Not sure if I still have it to post a picture but I'll check.

edit, here ya go. https://www.mcfeelys.com/media/wysi...and_Fasteners/Threaded-Insert_Driver_Bits.jpg

If you don't want tearout around the outer threads, it's better to used the non-threaded, knurled exterior that just presses in with a touch of glue/epoxy.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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