# WIP- Chain-Swing-Band mill



## CodyS

Ok I have been meaning to get this thread started for a while now.

First Sketchup drawing (I am laughing at myself)

[attachment=1063]

Second Sketchup Drawing (better but still laughing)

[attachment=1064]

Third Sketchup Drawing (lets just call this one some more experimentation)

[attachment=1066]

Fourth Sketchup Drawing (getting there, Frame still needs work)

[attachment=1067]

Fifth Sketchup Drawing (getting there)

[attachment=1068]

Sixth Sketchup Drawing (just about final...)

TO COME


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## CodyS

Well... I thought you guys might like some pics of the new addition... all $740, 660mm OD, 6.1mm kerf and 11.5kg of it!

[attachment=1476]

[attachment=1477]


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## Kevin

Crikey mate! That's a lot of blade. Well, I guess you took a page out of the Hernando Cortés playbook. You have to build it now. 


.


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> Crikey mate! That's a lot of blade. Well, I guess you took a page out of the Hernando Cortés playbook. You have to build it now.
> 
> 
> .



Lets just hope this one doesn't end up in my chest!

also you've lost me on the "Hernando Cortés" thing, though I think I get your drift 

And yes I DO HAVE to build it now


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## Kevin

When Cortés landed in Mexico to conquer the Aztecs, he ordered his ships stripped and scuttled. He knew a large portion of his men were planning to mutiny during the inland march and would steal the ships and return to Cuba. So by doing this his men were forced to finish the campaign. 

By buying your blade before building any of the mill, you have essentially scuttled your ship. I know it's a stretch but it's what came to mind right away. :wacko1:


.


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## woodtickgreg

Nice to see you making progress with this. Big expensive part purchased, now commited to build. Will this thing be knock down portable? It's very interesting, when you get it built and the bugs worked out of it maybe you should think about selling the plans. Great initiative Cody! More please


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> Nice to see you making progress with this. Big expensive part purchased, now commited to build. Will this thing be knock down portable? It's very interesting, when you get it built and the bugs worked out of it maybe you should think about selling the plans. Great initiative Cody! More please



yep it will certainly be knock down portable, it is designed to work just like a lucas mill.

I would never sell the plans, I would prefer to give them away!


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## woodtickgreg

I will be watching this thread with great interest Cody It's the slabbing attachment that I am most interested in.


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## CodyS

*Blade guard - mould*

Well I don't have anything here to work on other than this, and yes of course SAFETY FIRST!

The first step is to draw it into my model and make sure it works.

[attachment=1658]

Now comes making a template.

[attachment=1659]

This is then printed out to full scale.

[attachment=1799]

[attachment=1800]

and cut out on some mdf

[attachment=1801]

First on the band saw

[attachment=1802]

Then brought back to the line and rounded a bit on the disc sander.
(see end of post didn't want to work...)

The MDF is glued and nailed together using the lines of the previous piece for locating.

[attachment=1804]

It is then shaped until it looks right

Planed

[attachment=1805]

Belt sanded

[attachment=1806]

....


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## CodyS

*Blade guard - mould*

hand sanded

[attachment=1807]

[attachment=1808]

[attachment=1809]

[attachment=1810]

There will be more coming tomorrow, it should be shaped and smoothed.


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## Kevin

Cody you're really approaching this in an impressive manner. What is the mockup - the blade guard? 


.


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> Cody you're really approaching this in an impressive manner. What is the mockup - the blade guard?
> 
> 
> .



woops my bad, I forgot to edit the title. Yep it is indeed the blade guard.


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## woodtickgreg

Nice photos Cody, can't wait to see more, progressing nicely!


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cody you're really approaching this in an impressive manner. What is the mockup - the blade guard?
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woops my bad, I forgot to edit the title. Yep it is indeed the blade guard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> So this is a mold? or a buck?
Click to expand...


woops again... it is a mould.


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## CodyS

*Blade guard - mould*

[attachment=1816]
[attachment=1817]
[attachment=1818]
[attachment=1819]
[attachment=1820]


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## woodtickgreg

So I'm guessing either shape metal to fit over mold or fiberglass?
More please!


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> So I'm guessing either shape metal to fit over mold or fiberglass?
> More please!



yep fibreglass, I will make a mold (I really can't figure out how to spell that so I will just copy you guys) with this from fibreglass and then use that fibreglass mold to make the final thing. This will mean if I stuff up the guard I can easily make another one! And it is not much more work... so I'm told!

There is a new teacher at school who has used a lucas mill and knows a lot about fibre glassing, so he has been very helpful.

My only question is, what colour should I make it?


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## Kevin

Cody I'm not sure you should use that to make a mold from. If I'm not mistaken I'm seeing some pretty good figure in there, looks like it might be fiddleback! 

[attachment=1825]


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## woodtickgreg

Kevin said:


> Cody I'm not sure you should use that to make a mold from. If I'm not mistaken I'm seeing some pretty good figure in there, looks like it might be fiddleback!


Highly valuable fiddleback mdf


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm guessing either shape metal to fit over mold or fiberglass?
> More please!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yep fibreglass, I will make a mold (I really can't figure out how to spell that so I will just copy you guys) with this from fibreglass and then use that fibreglass mold to make the final thing. This will mean if I stuff up the guard I can easily make another one! And it is not much more work... so I'm told!
> 
> There is a new teacher at school who has used a lucas mill and knows a lot about fibre glassing, so he has been very helpful.
> 
> My only question is, what colour should I make it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Well Duh...the color of $$$$$$$$ of course
Click to expand...


Well, the problem with that unfortunately, is that lucas uses green on their mill, and I don't have green...

Any other thoughts?


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## Kevin

When in doubt, turn to nature.


.


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> When in doubt, turn to nature.
> 
> 
> .




OF COURSE!!! I reckon I can do it multi-coloured


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## CodyS

Well I was away Tuesday (sick ) and so I missed out on doing a bunch of work then :(.



But I went down at lunch today and in the afternoon after school to put a couple coats of lacquer on. AND MAN OH MAN DOES THAT HORIZONTAL GRAIN JUST POP! Unfortunately much of the other figure was only on the surface .

[attachment=1924]

[attachment=1925]

[attachment=1926]

[attachment=1927]

[attachment=1928]

Well that's all I can feed you for today. sorry!


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## CodyS

*Blade guard - mold*

filling, sanding, finishing, polishing ect ect... wow this is so nice! All of my favourite things! Can't wait to move on to some fibre-glassing and starting to whine about that as well


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## CodyS

There are about 4 coats of release wax on it now (there needs to be 5-6).

The other coats will go on tomorrow and it is more than likely that the one layer of fibre-glassing will be done as well.

Getting pics without the reflection wasn't possible so... my best 'shot' at it.


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## Mac

Very impressive  
Mr. Cody, and to think of all the things you will build in the years to come. Iam gonna stay tuned to this channel!!!


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## CodyS

THE GLASS IS ON


I put it on a piece of acrylic, the resin shouldn't stick to this.

[attachment=2157]

glass material cut

[attachment=2184]

[attachment=2185]

Resin on first

[attachment=2160]

Then the material

[attachment=2161]

[attachment=2162]


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## CodyS

Don't think that's all I did :morning2:!

I did a bit of welding in preparation for when I have to do the welding on the mill (haven't welded any for 6 months or so). Me and my teacher made this up this arvo.

(and to note if my teacher reads this, I can weld better than you and you said it, just making a note of this! NOTE MADE)


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## woodtickgreg

Very cool Cody! I assume you will put a few layers of fiberglass for strength? Welding is fun stuff, that means the fabrication of the frame is about to begin And then the part I like, the mechanicals


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> Very cool Cody! I assume you will put a few layers of fiberglass for strength? Welding is fun stuff, that means the fabrication of the frame is about to begin And then the part I like, the mechanicals



Too right!

Do you know much about fibre-glassing? How many layers do you think I should do? I was going to do another and see how it goes... remembering this is still a mold.

The person at my school who knows about fibre-glassing most will be around on monday (I thought waiting overnight for something to dry is bad! try waiting a whole weekend to see it!!!:wacko1: my patience is going to be tested)

You sound like you could be of great help for all of the 'mechanicals', I will probably have a 'few' questions. and a few of these >>:dash2::dash2:


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## Kevin

Cody this is one fantastic thread keep it up. 

(I got to say though those sideways pics are killing me. I'm gonna turn them for you one last time :timeout: )


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## woodtickgreg

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool Cody! I assume you will put a few layers of fiberglass for strength? Welding is fun stuff, that means the fabrication of the frame is about to begin And then the part I like, the mechanicals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too right!
> 
> Do you know much about fibre-glassing? How many layers do you think I should do? I was going to do another and see how it goes... remembering this is still a mold.
> 
> The person at my school who knows about fibre-glassing most will be around on monday (I thought waiting overnight for something to dry is bad! try waiting a whole weekend to see it!!!:wacko1: my patience is going to be tested)
> 
> You sound like you could be of great help for all of the 'mechanicals', I will probably have a 'few' questions. and a few of these >>:dash2::dash2:
Click to expand...

So let me see if I got this right? The mdf is a form for the fiberglas that's actually going to be a mold for the finished product the blade gaurd? If this is correct I wouldn't build it up to thick so as to have some flexability to remove it from the finished product, with lots of mold release and compressed air. I love anything mechanical, it's my thing, I'm a hopeless tinkerer, which is one of the reasons I have so much interest in this thread, that and to watch a young man with drive, determination and god given talent learn and succede. It's very refreshing to see a young man inspire us old farts!


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> Cody this is one fantastic thread keep it up.
> 
> (I got to say though those sideways pics are killing me. I'm gonna turn them for you one last time :timeout: )



Sorry kevin, its not one of those things that bothers me so I completely forgot about it! Thanks for flipping them though!



woodtickgreg said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> woodtickgreg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very cool Cody! I assume you will put a few layers of fiberglass for strength? Welding is fun stuff, that means the fabrication of the frame is about to begin And then the part I like, the mechanicals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too right!
> 
> Do you know much about fibre-glassing? How many layers do you think I should do? I was going to do another and see how it goes... remembering this is still a mold.
> 
> The person at my school who knows about fibre-glassing most will be around on monday (I thought waiting overnight for something to dry is bad! try waiting a whole weekend to see it!!!:wacko1: my patience is going to be tested)
> 
> You sound like you could be of great help for all of the 'mechanicals', I will probably have a 'few' questions. and a few of these >>:dash2::dash2:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So let me see if I got this right? The mdf is a form for the fiberglas that's actually going to be a mold for the finished product the blade gaurd? If this is correct I wouldn't build it up to thick so as to have some flexability to remove it from the finished product, with lots of mold release and compressed air. I love anything mechanical, it's my thing, I'm a hopeless tinkerer, which is one of the reasons I have so much interest in this thread, that and to watch a young man with drive, determination and god given talent learn and succede. It's very refreshing to see a young man inspire us old farts!
Click to expand...


yep a mold for a mold. 

Thanks for the great comments guys!


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## CodyS

Also, by making a mold from fibre-glass I have the opportunity to make a new guard in the future rather easily, just in case I stuff this one up somehow.


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> Keep it up Cody, I can see it now "Cody's Chain-Swing-Band Mill Co." Are you keeping good notes and drawings? Put me on the list of plans buyers:i_am_so_happy:



Everything is being recorded as best as possible. The final set of sketchup plans will be real life dimensions (not 'close' guesstimates). It will also have a full cut/parts list (and maybe prices depending on if I am willing to admit it). 

SO GET TO LEARNING SKETCHUP 

That along with this thread will hopefully be enough info. That being said, chances are you guys could do it for less than me with different parts as everything over here is your price, plus postage, plus some.

For example: 25hp kohler engine over there ~1800 (postage is ~$700) over here $4200-5400:diablo::aggressive::wacko1:.

There is also a folio I have to complete for school, which could be useful but it is full of... well... BS

Maybe I could put together some videos on different processes (fibre-glassing, welding, machining ect) or even just link to some useful ones on youtube?

Any other things you guys think I should do to help record it better?


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## CodyS

Today's update

The fibre-glass didn't turn out too well. It came off the mold with much difficulty by using a ruler to slide in between and turning it inside out (this is when it ripped but had no choice). I screwed a 'handle' on the bottom to help hold it (as seen in pic 5).

[attachment=2279]

[attachment=2278]

[attachment=2277]

It also stuck to the filler I used. Other than needing a bit more sanding and filling the MDF mold is in good nick.

I am going to redo this. This time I am going to use another type of glass, flow coat, some different release agent, and different filler (epoxy with some type of very fine silica in it). The new filler is the white stuff on the mdf.

(the other release agent is in the bottle in this picture)

[attachment=2276]

[attachment=2275]

As you can see in this image the epoxy has run under the mdf and glued there... sort of expected.

[attachment=2274]

[attachment=2273]


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## woodtickgreg

When things don't work that's when we learn. If at first you don't succede try try again. I also wonder why you did not use a gel goat before the glass layer, wouldn't that leave a smoother surface for the mold when it's removed, and a smoother surface would be easier to release? dunno? Keep at it Cody, you'll figure it out.


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> When things don't work that's when we learn. If at first you don't succede try try again. I also wonder why you did not use a gel goat before the glass layer, wouldn't that leave a smoother surface for the mold when it's removed, and a smoother surface would be easier to release? dunno? Keep at it Cody, you'll figure it out.



School doesn't have any, and I didn't realise I had to use the flow or gel coat. I will be next time.

Another suggestion was to use a stiffer material (forgot what it is called) but it was the 'spray' stuff (if that rings any bells). This would hopefully make it easier to remove as it would be, well stiffer meaning when you pop it off it all comes at once easily.

I was thinking I could put some 'handles'(a piece of material) on the fibre-glass mold. This would give me something up the top to help pull it off.

All in all I should have done more research. Not to worry though, as you said you learn from your mistakes!

you got any other suggestions?

We'll see how it goes this time!


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> You do not seem like the type to give up easy. this has probably made you more driven to success. Gel Coat it



ME stubborn NEVER :i_dunno:

I will admit I am determined though! This is a mere hickup I am barely going to blink! 

I just can't wait till the steel gets here! I wanna get welding!


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## CodyS

Is there much difference between gel and flow coat?

As I understand it, flow coat has wax in it and gel coat has not.

the different 'material' is chop strand.


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## Mac

Cody, give a thought to putting in a small hole in the form to allow the vacuum caused by the tight fit to be released, also this would provide for air pressure to be applied to help lift if needed. Good luck with the next go around. oh yes a small piece of masking tape will keep the hole open (the epoxy out) and is easy to pierce with a small stiff wire or will blow off with air pressure.


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## CodyS

Mac said:


> Cody, give a thought to putting in a small hole in the form to allow the vacuum caused by the tight fit to be released, also this would provide for air pressure to be applied to help lift if needed. Good luck with the next go around. oh yes a small piece of masking tape will keep the hole open (the epoxy out) and is easy to pierce with a small stiff wire or will blow off with air pressure.



The only problem is, I don't think we have a long enough drill bit to go right the way through.


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## Mac

ok; weld a longer shank to the base of the bit! or you could mill a 2or 3 mm channel over the top from side to side, this can be covered with tape to protect the shape and keep open. works for concrete septic tank forms/molds that weigh thousands of pounds( h)mmm sorry Kilos..


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## CodyS

Mac said:


> ok; weld a longer shank to the base of the bit! or you could mill a 2or 3 mm channel over the top from side to side, this can be covered with tape to protect the shape and keep open. works for concrete septic tank forms/molds that weigh thousands of pounds( h)mmm sorry Kilos..



Thanks for that! I'll have a go at lunch then!

I've ordered some flow coat and it should be on its way soon.


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## CodyS

Well it turns out we do have a long enough bit. The whole is ~8mm right the way through until the very end, which narrows down to about 2mm.

I now have the material to use as well.

The wax and PVC release agent is on. 

Do I need to put more than one coat of the PVC release agent on? I don't think I do but couldn't be sure!

Steel has been ordered and should be delivered shortly!


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## karjoe

Hi, ....

I think the suggestion for a hole or two to release the suction is a good one.... if you don't have a bit long enough to go all the way through, drill in as far as you can, but close enough to the bottom to then drill up through the bottom to meet the horizontal hole.

Or, make the horizontal holes angle downward, again with the intention of drilling up through the bottom to meet them.

15 PSI/sq in times the huge number of sq in you have is a very large number.....

Joe


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## CodyS

karjoe said:


> Hi, ....
> 
> I think the suggestion for a hole or two to release the suction is a good one.... if you don't have a bit long enough to go all the way through, drill in as far as you can, but close enough to the bottom to then drill up through the bottom to meet the horizontal hole.
> 
> Or, make the horizontal holes angle downward, again with the intention of drilling up through the bottom to meet them.
> 
> 15 PSI/sq in times the huge number of sq in you have is a very large number.....
> 
> Joe



yep thanks, I managed to get a hole right the way through.


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## CodyS

Flow coat just arrived , couldn't be better timing!!! Just about to leave for school!


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## CodyS

I have put 2 coats on (don't know how many I need...?)

I also did some experimentation for colours (had extra mixed up). The blue is actually much darker in real life.


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## Mac

Boy all that work u doing is making me tired, think I need a nap.........


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## CodyS

Mac said:


> Boy all that work u doing is making me tired, think I need a nap.........



me too! only thing is, its night here so I should!  mind you if it is the time I think it is there you should still be asleep... by my standards anyway


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## CodyS

Well the steel arrived today!

I started cutting it up to try and get it out of the rain...

Here is the lot (minus the bit already shown cut up)

[attachment=2534]

[attachment=2535]

[attachment=2536]

[attachment=2537]

:dance::dance::dance::clapping::clapping::clapping:


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## woodtickgreg

Very cool cody! Can't wait to see it start to come together, Hows the blade gaurd coming along?


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> Very cool cody! Can't wait to see it start to come together, Hows the blade gaurd coming along?



unfortunately ran out of time to do any more work on that today. The resin is all dry, I will try to get another coat and some material on tomorrow! But it will be 2nd in priority, I need to get on with the steel work.


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## Kevin

Blue Steel! 

But . . . rain? In NSW?


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## CodyS

Yep we've had a heap! :aggressive: It has been a terrible summer, but its still warmer than your getting . Luckily we have had 3 beautiful days in a row so far.

Well I got some more steel cut.

[attachment=2579]

[attachment=2580]

Here is the welder I have been using. We should have a better new one soon (this one only works when IT is in the mood :aggressive: even when you are just about to strike up :diablo:)
(hey I remembered to flip this one!)
[attachment=2581]

And some fibre-glassing done. It was recommended to me to use the polyester resin (flow coat) for the whole thing as it is stiffer than the other resin we have. :i_dunno: What do you guys think?

[attachment=2582][attachment=2583]


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## woodtickgreg

I'll cross my fingers for you and hope it comes off this time.


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## CodyS

Didn't get any time to work on the mill today :cray:.

But I did stop by the post office on the way home to see if my right angle gearbox had arrived, and it had  

*[start rant]*(stupid Australia post didn't deliver it :aggressive:)*[end rant]*

:dance::dance::dance::dance:


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## CodyS

Most of the steel is cut (only the bits I can't do yet aren't).

[attachment=2675]

We have had a HEAP of rain today and all of last night. (take note of the trailer...). The steel got quite wet so there is a bit of surface rust. 

[attachment=2673]

[attachment=2674]

The piloting tube for vertical movement will be changed from the current design as well. 
From:
[attachment=2668]

[attachment=2669]

To:
[attachment=2666]

[attachment=2667]

This is the die for pressing the steel plate in, the paper represents the plate. 

[attachment=2670]

And another

[attachment=2671]

And the sheet of steel.

[attachment=2672]


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## CodyS

Got a bit of work done today. 

I'll just post a few pics for now as I will take some better ones when I do the rest of the piloting thingys and explain the method some. (this one is actually just a test one and won't be used).

[attachment=2696]

[attachment=2697]

[attachment=2695]

[attachment=2698]

[attachment=2699]

Blade guard has had another layer added.

[attachment=2700]


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## CodyS

I've been thinking, maybe with the plans, I will make it so you have to make a donation of any size you feel appropriate to this site and you will get them, sound good?


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## CodyS

Sorry for no updates guys, welder is out of action and I have a heap of theory work to do :diablo:


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## CodyS

Sorry for no updates guys, I have had exams . Good news is they should start coming at you soon!

The chainsaw bar should be purchased shortly (just sorting out sprocket). Do you guys think 84" will be long enough :i_dunno:


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## Kevin

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> I've been thinking, maybe with the plans, I will make it so you have to make a donation of any size you feel appropriate to this site and you will get them, sound good?



Cody I missed this somehow. Thanks for the kind gesture I better get the donate button back up soon! Can't wait for the next update!!!


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for no updates guys, I have had exams . Good news is they should start coming at you soon!
> 
> The chainsaw bar should be purchased shortly (just sorting out sprocket). Do you guys think 84" will be long enough :i_dunno:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 84''? come on kid where is your sense of adventure? :clapping: Lucas has a 108'' now.
> 
> You Cody are an inspiration. Thanks for the update.
Click to expand...


It only says a 76" on their website...? 

http://www.lucasmill.com/OurProducts/SlabbingMills/DedicatedSlabbingMill/tabid/274/Default.aspx


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## Kevin

Hey Cody, anything happening on this lately?


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> Hey Cody, anything happening on this lately?



Nope nothing happening :cray:, school holidays at the moment . I am hoping to get to school and pickup my steel and the welder so I can get something done on that.

I am confused on what I need to do sprocket wise for the chainsaw bar... :scratch_one-s_head:

The guy I am getting the bar off sent me the attached files but my noob side is showing... He said it would need to have a fairly low tooth count of about 9.


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## CodyS

Just realised I can rate my own thread


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## woodtickgreg

Hey Codie, post the link for those drive sprockets, that's just what I have been looking for!


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## CodyS

woodtickgreg said:


> Hey Codie, post the link for those drive sprockets, that's just what I have been looking for!



https://sites.google.com/site/sawchainsupplyqueanbeyan/ - he's a great guy. He is near Canberra, Australian Capital Territory (ACT). His prices as I understand it are very reasonable as well.


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## CodyS

See you guys on the other side of camp (4 days) with my 84" bar :naughty::clapping:


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## brown down

man you are talented. when all said and done, and you get this beast running, i am def interested in your plans. I am confused tho, is it a chainsaw mill or a blade driven mill? or both?


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## CodyS

brown down said:


> man you are talented. when all said and done, and you get this beast running, i am def interested in your plans. I am confused tho, is it a chainsaw mill or a blade driven mill? or both?



Trust a mac user to not get it :bomb:

It is a combination of a 'chainsaw mill' a 'swing mill' and a 'band sawmill'

I will edit my original post to make more sense and be generally more informative.

So as planned the chainsaw bar has arrived while I was away :clapping:. all 84" of it. From 'GB performance forestry equipment'.

[attachment=4831]

[attachment=4832]

:music: Life is great


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## CodyS

Main Engine (narrower) and swing/chainsaw (wider) mill frames.

[attachment=5037]

The new welders... MUCH BETTER

[attachment=5039]

The smaller frames steel. yet to be welded up.

[attachment=5038]


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## CodyS

Main Engine (narrower) and swing/chainsaw (wider) mill frames.

Terrible pic...

[attachment=5037]

The smaller frames steel. yet to be welded up.

[attachment=5039]

The new welders... MUCH BETTER

[attachment=5038]


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## CodyS

and some pics from today.

Don't forget to wear a mask (and look cool in it like me )!



[attachment=5085]

and my better welds... :secret2:, learning fast though and will be going back through and grinding/rewelding some joints, more for aesthetics than strength. 

[attachment=5086]

[attachment=5087]


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## CodyS

and some pics from today.

Don't forget to wear a mask (and look cool in it like me )!



[attachment=5085]

and my better welds... :secret2:, learning fast though and will be going back through and grinding/rewelding some joints, more for aesthetics than strength. 

[attachment=5086]

[attachment=5087]


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> Do you have an estimate of what your build cost will be?



at this stage the projected costs are just under $4000, that being said I have allowed for $5000 and would not be surprised if I reached it. 

As I think I said earlier in this thread the cost for me in Australia is likely to be much higher than for you guys in the USA. Another beauty of this design is that it doesn't matter if you only build part of it to start with and then gradually add to it. :i_dunno: 

Hope that answered your question without me going on too much of a tangent.  I'm going to go to bed now and hopefully enjoy another perfect day like today tomorrow, and learn something new and useful!


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## CodyS

oh and hopefully I will sell a chook pen and be $700 just as poor after I spend it on the mill


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## Kevin

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> oh and hopefully I will sell a chook pen and be $700 just as poor after I spend it on the mill



That second weld looks much better there Cody. Work on keeping your pattern consistent like that your shop teach will be liking that. Pull the rod off slower at the end so you won't have that void. Almost like a pause or mini-hover. Looking good!


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> oh and hopefully I will sell a chook pen and be $700 just as poor after I spend it on the mill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That second weld looks much better there Cody. Work on keeping your pattern consistent like that your shop teach will be liking that. Pull the rod off slower at the end so you won't have that void. Almost like a pause or mini-hover. Looking good!
Click to expand...


there we go, already learn't something useful!

Any other tips, tricks and links on welding would be appreciated.


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## Kevin

cody.sheridan-2008 said:


> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> oh and hopefully I will sell a chook pen and be $700 just as poor after I spend it on the mill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That second weld looks much better there Cody. Work on keeping your pattern consistent like that your shop teach will be liking that. Pull the rod off slower at the end so you won't have that void. Almost like a pause or mini-hover. Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> there we go, already learn't something useful!
> 
> Any other tips, tricks and links on welding would be appreciated.
Click to expand...



Well I don't consider myself a welder per se, just a pretty good dobber. But the mistakes I made as a self-taught welder were pretty evident once I got around other welders. They taught me how to balance amps so that I wasn't too hot - you want to be able to jam a rod into a corner or onto a flat joint so that it sounds like campfire bacon. If you have to hold the rod completely off the metal that's too hot. If you are "softly pushing" the rod into the metal and aren't having cold welds then you got it right. 

Taking a welding class is the best thing to do. I never have but would like to even today, even though I have burned many a rod. On our local lake I have built quite a few boat docks, boat houses, piers, and even several boat lifts (where the boat hangs in midair out of the water) and I did most of the welding on those projects and actually all of the welding on most of them. I hired out one large floating dock canopy though because it was a major big deal and I didn't want to take a chance. We've had numerous thunderstorms come through since the late 90's early 00s that have destroyed many boat docks and piers but none of mine have even needed repairs. But even with that, I actually need to take a welding course because there's much more to welding than making a nice "looking" weld. 


You keep welding anyway but take a course when you can so you don't develop the bad habits I undoubtedly have. Just keep in mind that in welding like most things, consistency is important. Make sure you get your amps right and one way to tell is like I described. Fry that bacon Cody. Don't cook it too slow and don't burn it. 


:nyam2:


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## CodyS

Kevin said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> oh and hopefully I will sell a chook pen and be $700 just as poor after I spend it on the mill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That second weld looks much better there Cody. Work on keeping your pattern consistent like that your shop teach will be liking that. Pull the rod off slower at the end so you won't have that void. Almost like a pause or mini-hover. Looking good!
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> there we go, already learn't something useful!
> 
> Any other tips, tricks and links on welding would be appreciated.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Well I don't consider myself a welder per se, just a pretty good dobber. But the mistakes I made as a self-taught welder were pretty evident once I got around other welders. They taught me how to balance amps so that I wasn't too hot - you want to be able to jam a rod into a corner or onto a flat joint so that it sounds like campfire bacon. If you have to hold the rod completely off the metal that's too hot. If you are "softly pushing" the rod into the metal and aren't having cold welds then you got it right.
> 
> Taking a welding class is the best thing to do. I never have but would like to even today, even though I have burned many a rod. On our local lake I have built quite a few boat docks, boat houses, piers, and even several boat lifts (where the boat hangs in midair out of the water) and I did most of the welding on those projects and actually all of the welding on most of them. I hired out one large floating dock canopy though because it was a major big deal and I didn't want to take a chance. We've had numerous thunderstorms come through since the late 90's early 00s that have destroyed many boat docks and piers but none of mine have even needed repairs. But even with that, I actually need to take a welding course because there's much more to welding than making a nice "looking" weld.
> 
> 
> You keep welding anyway but take a course when you can so you don't develop the bad habits I undoubtedly have. Just keep in mind that in welding like most things, consistency is important. Make sure you get your amps right and one way to tell is like I described. Fry that bacon Cody. Don't cook it too slow and don't burn it.
> 
> 
> :nyam2:
Click to expand...


Thanks for that Kevin, I will try to take a class at some stage, maybe next year. It will also give me a chance to use some good welders .


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> What are you using for plans, sketch up only or do you have drawings? Sorry, us old guys like actual paper "blue prints". I want to use my pocket protector and slide rule. Oh and my new pens received in a trade with Arki during his FL visit. Great guy and nice pens too.
> 
> I would like to see what you have so far if I may.



I'm using sketchup. I can do individual drawings with dimensions of parts and could also print out scale drawings and post them to you (at your expense for postage). Though I would only do this for the final drawings as it is a lot of work. 

For now you will have to learn how to figure out how to read a sketchup drawing (really easy). Or I can do a few screen shots and maybe a quick video. I will attach the drawings when I can...

Right now my drawing is not complete and does not include the chainsaw attachment and the bandsaw attachment is only there for looks. I will do them in real life and then draw them.

_*KEVIN THIS IS AN EMERGENCY!!!!!!!!!!!!!*_

I can not upload skp files (sketchup models) !!!!!!!!!!


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## CodyS

Here are a few images

[attachment=5110]

[attachment=5111]

[attachment=5112]


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## CodyS

Here are a few images

[attachment=5110]

[attachment=5111]

[attachment=5112]


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## CodyS

Joe Rebuild said:


> cody.sheridan-2008 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Rebuild said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using for plans, sketch up only or do you have drawings? Sorry, us old guys like actual paper "blue prints". I want to use my pocket protector and slide rule. Oh and my new pens received in a trade with Arki during his FL visit. Great guy and nice pens too.
> 
> I would like to see what you have so far if I may.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using sketchup. I can do individual drawings with dimensions of parts and could also print out scale drawings and post them to you (at your expense for postage). Though I would only do this for the final drawings as it is a lot of work.
> 
> For now you will have to learn how to figure out how to read a sketchup drawing (really easy). Or I can do a few screen shots and maybe a quick video. I will attach the drawings when I can...
> 
> Right now my drawing is not complete and does not include the chainsaw attachment and the bandsaw attachment is only there for looks. I will do them in real life and then draw them.
> 
> _*KEVIN THIS IS AN EMERGENCY!!!!!!!!!!!!!*_
> 
> I can not upload skp files (sketchup models) !!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I would absolutely pick up the postage and any cost you incur for your time and any printing material for scale drawings. Actual paper drawing would help a lot because I can take them places where I would not take my cpu. I could leave plans with my metal fabricator, I dont think he even has a cpu but he can build anything. Hell I will send you a box or two of wood too  no silky oak or Euc I promise.
> 
> I will wait for the completed plans which include the BS ans CS attachments.
> 
> I will also get to playing with Sketch up  The sketch up pic you show here, assuming I was in sketchup there would be a tool that will ''show dimensions''?
> 
> I can see it now the ''Cody Brand Swingmill/Bandmill/Chainsawmill 2000''. New and improved with a 20' bar and 345 hp chevy V8  Look for our stacker/stickerer/dryer 5000 coming to a Cody Brand Cool Tool Store near you.
> 
> Seriously Cody thanks you for sharing this build and plans with us. I will be sure to make my WB donation for the plans too.
Click to expand...


There is a tool on sketchup called 'tape measure' it has a massive resemblance to a tool in real life that is a tape measure . It is all pretty self explanatory.

The tools you should mainly try to get used to are:

Tape measure
Orbit
Pan
Zoom

This video looks like it will probably work well to explain navigation (moving round) (can't listen to sound)


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