# Stihl Leaf Blower - Dry Start



## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

I have a Stihl gas powered leaf blower that I dried out the gas tank before I moved, and haven't used it in months. Went to start it up and just could not get it to kick over. Any suggestions on getting it to start? Thanks! Chuck


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## TimR (Sep 2, 2021)

Does it have a bulb to get the fuel primed? If so, ( my husq has one) you may need to push a few more times till fuel visible. When you emptied fuel, did you let it run to get most out of carb? Lastly, did you use regular unleaded or ethanol free fuel? Hopefully with a few more questions answered you’ll get some more pointed advice.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## trc65 (Sep 2, 2021)

On my Stihl blowers the procedure we use for cold start is to prime well, choke it, hold full throttle and one pull. If it doesn't start on first pull, turn choke off and usually starts on the second or third pull.

My first guess is fuel delivery problem, however, a quick check to make sure it's not electrical is to pull the spark plug, hook it back up to the plug wire, make sure the plug is touching metal and give it a pull to see if you have spark (of course with switch on).

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 2, 2021)

I agree with everything above.


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## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

TimR said:


> Does it have a bulb to get the fuel primed? If so, ( my husq has one) you may need to push a few more times till fuel visible. When you emptied fuel, did you let it run to get most out of carb? Lastly, did you use regular unleaded or ethanol free fuel? Hopefully with a few more questions answered you’ll get some more pointed advice.


Thanks! Yes on the bulb. I did not let it run dry, just poured out fuel and kept top off the gas tank for several days. Regular unleaded gas. Chuck


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## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

trc65 said:


> On my Stihl blowers the procedure we use for cold start is to prime well, choke it, hold full throttle and one pull. If it doesn't start on first pull, turn choke off and usually starts on the second or third pull.
> 
> My first guess is fuel delivery problem, however, a quick check to make sure it's not electrical is to pull the spark plug, hook it back up to the plug wire, make sure the plug is touching metal and give it a pull to see if you have spark (of course with switch on).


Thanks! My initial impression is the same, but am now thinking I probably should change the plug as I’ve been running it for 10 years. Chuck


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 2, 2021)

If the plug is corroded, might be good to change. However plug quality is better then than it is now, so cleaning the old plug might help. I'd pour a bit of fuel into the cylinder hole, just a touch, enough to cover the piston head. Let it sit a few minutes. Then slowly pull the pull cord 1 or 2 times, enough for two or 3 cycles. Now that the cylinder is damp with fuel, put the spark plug back in. There will be enough vapor to fire. Pull the cord a few times, it might start and run, or it might fire and stall. If it fires and stalls, it often will have created enough vacuum to break an air lock. It should also pull fuel in the carb. That might be another issue, having set 10 years, but maybe not. You can repeat the process, 1 or 2 more times but if it does not run continuously after a few tries, carb likely the next focus.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 2, 2021)

I'm betting the carb is gummed up from sitting with our crappy gas in it. Ethanol is bad for small engines in so many ways.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 7


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## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> If the plug is corroded, might be good to change. However plug quality is better then than it is now, so cleaning the old plug might help. I'd pour a bit of fuel into the cylinder hole, just a touch, enough to cover the piston head. Let it sit a few minutes. Then slowly pull the pull cord 1 or 2 times, enough for two or 3 cycles. Now that the cylinder is damp with fuel, put the spark plug back in. There will be enough vapor to fire. Pull the cord a few times, it might start and run, or it might fire and stall. If it fires and stalls, it often will have created enough vacuum to break an air lock. It should also pull fuel in the carb. That might be another issue, having set 10 years, but maybe not. You can repeat the process, 1 or 2 more times but if it does not run continuously after a few tries, carb likely the next focus.


Thanks! Ran it for 10 years, then been sitting for about 4 months during my move. Chuck


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## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

woodtickgreg said:


> I'm betting the carb is gummed up from sitting with our crappy gas in it. Ethanol is bad for small engines in so many ways.


Thanks! Should I consider an additive to the fuel for “cleaning?” Chuck


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 2, 2021)

Nature Man said:


> Thanks! Should I consider an additive to the fuel for “cleaning?” Chuck


Nope, won't really do anything if you can't force fuel through it with the primer bulb. Dump the fuel, add fresh fuel and cross your fingers. 4 months is not really a long time to sit idle, you should still be able to get it going. Fuel does start to go bad after 30 days though. Biggest problem you have is the blowers age, the rubber diaphragms in the carb are probably in questionable shape, it may be time for a carb rebuild or replacement.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## Tom Smart (Sep 2, 2021)

I had trouble with my Stihl leaf blower, it would start but not do anything more than idle. Learned there is a small plug in the lower front center that serves as a spark arrestor. It gets gummed up. Less than $6 for the part, which just screws in.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 2, 2021)

Tom Smart said:


> I had trouble with my Stihl leaf blower, it would start but not do anything more than idle. Learned there is a small plug in the lower front center that serves as a spark arrestor. It gets gummed up. Less than $6 for the part, which just screws in.


Or you can remove it and cook it with a propane torch to remove the carbon and put it back in. Or just throw it away, it's just a spark arrestor and if you using it in the city and not the woods you'll be fine. 99% of the lawn service guys here just remove them.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Useful 1


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## DLJeffs (Sep 2, 2021)

My Stihl edger wouldn't start one spring after sitting all winter. I ended up taking it to the Stihl shop in town. He showed me the recommended way to start it. He doesn't prime it. Simply turn it on, set the fuel trigger, locking it with the switch, set the choke, and pull the starter cord several times until it briefly starts. Then set the choke back to normal run, leave all the other things set where they are, and pull the starter several times. The engine should start up and run.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Trob115 (Sep 2, 2021)

I'm kinda chuckling. I was having a conversation with my grandfather a week or two ago about the stubbornness of Stihl and husq small engines. My Stihl blower, I pull it off 3 times on choke , then turn the choke off and it cranks right up. Any other routine, and it will not go. 

My grandfather has a similar routine for his husq weed eater and it will flood if you don't follow his determined routine. 

My dad is a pro a repairing any small motor engine, so I learned a lot growing up on how to repair them. My best advice is to run non-ethanol gas in any small engine. Ethanol will destroy the carburetors. It is worth the extra .20 a gallon to avoid and preventable breakdowns. It also will last a lot longer on the shelf than gasoline that contains ethanol. 


Chuck, I would first check the spark plug and make sure you are getting good fire. 
If you are you , then my bet is that you have some gunk in the carburetor. You're probably looking at ~$35 in a carb kit, or you can just choose to replace the entire carb.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Nature Man (Sep 2, 2021)

Replaced the spark plug today, but did not have time to give it a test run. Tomorrow is D-Day! Chuck

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 3, 2021)

Trob115 said:


> I'm kinda chuckling. I was having a conversation with my grandfather a week or two ago about the stubbornness of Stihl and husq small engines. My Stihl blower, I pull it off 3 times on choke , then turn the choke off and it cranks right up. Any other routine, and it will not go.
> 
> My grandfather has a similar routine for his husq weed eater and it will flood if you don't follow his determined routine.
> 
> ...


Take a look at the pumps again and let me know if the $0.20 extra cents is still correct for ethanol-free gas. It is an extra $0.75 to $1 per gallon here.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Trob115 (Sep 3, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> Take a look at the pumps again and let me know if the $0.20 extra cents is still correct for ethanol-free gas. It is an extra $0.75 to $1 per gallon here.




Geez that is crazy. It's hovering around $2.69 with ethanol and $2.95 here ethanol free.


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## Mike1950 (Sep 3, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> Take a look at the pumps again and let me know if the $0.20 extra cents is still correct for ethanol-free gas. It is an extra $0.75 to $1 per gallon here.


can buy a lot of gas for $35 that carb kit costs plus time and frustration. I do not even know what price difference is. I just pay it.. and have trouble free gas engines.


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## Karl_TN (Sep 3, 2021)

My son worked at a small engine shop while going to college. Spent most of his time either replacing or repairing carburetors ruined by ethanol gas or bad gas contaminated with water. Ethanol attracts water so I avoid using it like many others here.


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 3, 2021)

I won't even run gas in my small engines anymore. I only run true fuel or vp racing fuel ethanol free. What it actually is is like Coleman camping fuel, also known as white gas, very high octane and has a 2 year shelf life. It's expensive, around $20 a gallon but it won't destroy your carbs. I worked most of my young adult life as a small engine mechanic, ran my own lawn service for about 20 years, worked for tree services too. It was very different then, we just used a good high quality 2 cycle oil and good pump gas and never had a problem. So I have turned a wrench on this stuff for many years.Today it's very different because of the ethanol in gas, it corodes aluminum because of the water it attracts and it destroys rubber like in a carb diaphragm and fuel lines. And the sad part is the small engine manufacturers have not come up with anything that will work with today's pump gas.

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## Nature Man (Sep 3, 2021)

Vroom! Got 'er started today! New spark plug didn't hurt. Already had fresh gas. Pondered on all the advice, and it now works! Thanks! Chuck

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 1


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## Karl_TN (Sep 3, 2021)

woodtickgreg said:


> I won't even run gas in my small engines anymore. I only run true fuel or vp racing fuel ethanol free. What it actually is is like Coleman camping fuel, also known as white gas, very high octane and has a 2 year shelf life. It's expensive, around $20 a gallon but it won't destroy your carbs. I worked most of my young adult life as a small engine mechanic, ran my own lawn service for about 20 years, worked for tree services too. It was very different then, we just used a good high quality 2 cycle oil and good pump gas and never had a problem. So I have turned a wrench on this stuff for many years.Today it's very different because of the ethanol in gas, it corodes aluminum because of the water it attracts and it destroys rubber like in a carb diaphragm and fuel lines. And the sad part is the small engine manufacturers have not come up with anything that will work with today's pump gas.


Greg, Can you not get premium ethanol free gas in your area? I’ve been using that for many years without any problems so there’s no way I’m spending $20 a gallon for gas. I always thought anyone buying true fuel at the hardware stores must have more money than sense, or just can’t find good ethanol free gas in their area. I assume your the latter.


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Sep 3, 2021)

He's just got more money than the rest of us!

Reactions: Funny 2


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 3, 2021)

Karl_TN said:


> Greg, Can you not get premium ethanol free gas in your area? I’ve been using that for many years without any problems so there’s no way I’m spending $20 a gallon for gas. I always thought anyone buying true fuel at the hardware stores must have more money than sense, or just can’t find good ethanol free gas in their area. I assume your the latter.


We can get it around here, they sell it at the marinas too. But my reasons for running the true fuel are mainly because of the shelf life. Only thing I really have that takes gas anymore are my chainsaws and csm and they sit idle for a long time. All of my gardening equipment has gone to cordless. Even the ethanol free blends of fuel don't have much of a shelf life anymore.
I bet I have at least 2 saws that I haven't run in a long time that are going to need new carbs.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 3, 2021)

woodtickgreg said:


> We can get it around here, they sell it at the marinas too. But my reasons for running the true fuel are mainly because of the shelf life. Only thing I really have that takes gas anymore are my chainsaws and csm and they sit idle for a long time. All of my gardening equipment has gone to cordless. Even the ethanol free blends of fuel don't have much of a shelf life anymore.
> I bet I have at least 2 saws that I haven't run in a long time that are going to need new carbs.


Marinas in our area charge a $0.50 per gallon EPA funding tax to offset fuel spills in water. So not a clear option for me. The city folks don't seem to care any and buy plenty.


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 3, 2021)

woodtickgreg said:


> I won't even run gas in my small engines anymore. I only run true fuel or vp racing fuel ethanol free. What it actually is is like Coleman camping fuel, also known as white gas, very high octane and has a 2 year shelf life. It's expensive, around $20 a gallon but it won't destroy your carbs. I worked most of my young adult life as a small engine mechanic, ran my own lawn service for about 20 years, worked for tree services too. It was very different then, we just used a good high quality 2 cycle oil and good pump gas and never had a problem. So I have turned a wrench on this stuff for many years.Today it's very different because of the ethanol in gas, it corodes aluminum because of the water it attracts and it destroys rubber like in a carb diaphragm and fuel lines. And the sad part is the small engine manufacturers have not come up with anything that will work with today's pump gas.


Husky and Stihl 50:1 pre-mix fuel might be a better option. It runs $2-3 cheaper per gallon hear. The high octane of True Fuel carries the blame at a lot of small engine places around here for burning pistons out. Wonder if elevation might play into it some.


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 3, 2021)

Trob115 said:


> Geez that is crazy. It's hovering around $2.69 with ethanol and $2.95 here ethanol free.


$3.30 a gallon for regular, $4.20 for non-ethanol here.


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## Trob115 (Sep 3, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> $3.30 a gallon for regular, $4.20 for non-ethanol here.


That is insane


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 4, 2021)

High octane is a good thing in a 2 cycle engine. Never burned a piston out with it. Only thing that will cause that is a lean burn caused by poor carb adjustment. Or poor quality oil. I only run echo red armor 2 cycle oil now. In the past I have rune either echo, husqvarna, or stihl conventional oil. But the new red armor oil is an amazing synthetic oil. I've seen engines torn down after long term use with this stuff and there is virtually no wear.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 4, 2021)

woodtickgreg said:


> High octane is a good thing in a 2 cycle engine. Never burned a piston out with it. Only thing that will cause that is a lean burn caused by poor carb adjustment. Or poor quality oil. I only run echo red armor 2 cycle oil now. In the past I have rune either echo, husqvarna, or stihl conventional oil. But the new red armor oil is an amazing synthetic oil. I've seen engines torn down after long term use with this stuff and there is virtually no wear.


What octane is Trufuel? Most of our ethanaol free pumps are 90 or 91 octane. Some of the blended pumps run 141 and 150 octane for the boat folks. Guy up the road has been running the 141 in his beamer for a few years. I just avoid it because of price and lack experience.


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## Mike1950 (Sep 4, 2021)

Trob115 said:


> That is insane


regular here is probably over 3.70 this week. Ya see we are lucky- Our governor/dictator never has seen a tax he did not want to raise.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## DLJeffs (Sep 4, 2021)

Glad you got your leaf blower going Chuck. Around here it's hard to find a small engine mechanic anymore so most garden tools like yours just end up at the dump.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Sep 4, 2021)

Mr. Peet said:


> What octane is Trufuel? Most of our ethanaol free pumps are 90 or 91 octane. Some of the blended pumps run 141 and 150 octane for the boat folks. Guy up the road has been running the 141 in his beamer for a few years. I just avoid it because of price and lack experience.


Trufeul is 92 octane, vp fuel is 94 octane. Shelf life is 2 years in an opened container and 5 years in a sealed container.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Mike1950 (Sep 4, 2021)

Could be worse

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Nature Man (Sep 4, 2021)

Mike1950 said:


> Could be worse
> 
> View attachment 215502


Big ouch! Is that near you? Chuck


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## Mike1950 (Sep 4, 2021)

Nature Man said:


> Big ouch! Is that near you? Chuck


I think San Diego

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 4, 2021)

When we were out to Colorado last month, most of the fill stations had diesel cheaper than gasoline.


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