# What is a Burl?



## deltatango

I recently read a thread where someone said: "it's not a burl because it doesn't have any eyes."
The wood was beautiful and had a lot of layers, but didn't look like burl as we've come to know it.

From my understanding, there are two types of burls: above ground burls (aerial) and below ground burls (root or subterranean.) From my experience living in New England, years ago, many above ground burls don't have eyes, but are rather layer upon layer (with the exception of cherry burl). Most of the burls coming from New England are aerial burls, usually maple, birch, beech, elm, cherry, walnut, butternut, oak, etc., while some subterranean burls such as birch root burls (sometimes called Masur) exhibit both types of growth characteristics.

I've found that aerial burls without eyes can be spectacular. I think we have come to expect eyes in burl, or ultra swirling grain, in order to qualify with our expectations.

Next time you see wood that is called burl, but doesn't have eye's or super swirl, perhaps give it a second look. You may have terrific burl, just not what you expected.

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## Mike1950

also eyes- can disappear and become rays if cut parallel to eyes . ash aerial burls have eyes- so do walnut-birch-locust-elm and not all subterranean burls have eyes Big leaf is an example and so is madrone- they both have in and above ground burls of both types. I think there is a lot of mystic and mis info about burls. I have been watching a walnut-ground level burl for 20 years. every year the owner trims 100 +- little limbs off of it and the next year they are back. the below the graft root wants to grow so bad but trimming stops it- some day it will be nice- only 4' across now and NOT available. :(

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## deltatango

Those things he's trimming off are called dormant buds, Mike. Dormant bud burls are the ones that produce the eyes. Yeah, there really hasn't been a lot of scientific research on burls. Fine Woodworking published the first article on burls in 1986 called "Harvesting Burls". Before that, nothing - zip. Someday, some grad student will probably take it up and do something significant one day and dispel all the rumors.

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## Mike1950

deltatango said:


> Those things he's trimming off are called dormant buds, Mike. Dormant bud burls are the ones that produce the eyes. Yeah, there really hasn't been a lot of scientific research on burls. Fine Woodworking published the first article on burls in 1986 called "Harvesting Burls". Before that, nothing - zip. Someday, some grad student will probably take it up and do something significant one day and dispel all the rumors.



Little suckers grow fast- probably 2-3' this year. It is like a bush. Now the above ground elm that I drive by has nothing on it. all in the air- probably 5 trees in a row.... all infested in lovely burls


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## Mike1950

I agree though, not much info- mine mostly observation and cutting the suckers up. I got a 6' diameter BLMB last year and it had a little of everything in it. Big leaf burls a lot

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## deltatango

Burls come in such different forms and formations. It's all pretty amazing - pretty exquisite.
In certain areas, burls are extremely rare, like in Florida. In Orgeon, they're plentiful.

Here's a Southern burl tree - just loaded - Pecan. Pretty rare.

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## vegas urban lumber

i've been watching a landscape mesquite for the last year. it is over 20' feet tall with two primary stems aprox 24" across, each. it is burly all the way up both stems, putting on several hundred small branches per stem every 3 or 4 months. the landscapers prune them off and they come right back. it is located at a Bank of America branch in las vegas. i've been thinking of offering to pay them to cut it down and start fresh just so i can have the logs.

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## deltatango

So what was the address? LOL.....

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## Mike1950

I agree oregon has some really cool ones- below now residing in wash. But the burl /figured wood mecca in the PNW is the rainforest.

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## deltatango

oops,don't let them get away and slide out of the trailer!
Nice looking burls there - really nice.

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## vegas urban lumber

since the last time i posted a story no pictures and someone said "didn't happen without pictures" here's the pictures of the tree i was talking about

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## Mike1950

VERY COOL tree

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## vegas urban lumber

Mike1950 said:


> VERY COOL tree



i just hope i don't drive by one day and find they got tired of messing with it took it out. as i drove by it the other day. both trunks are completely covered in 3 foot long branches


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## vegas urban lumber

deltatango said:


> So what was the address? LOL.....



close to the corner of flamingo and sandhill. about 6 blocks from my kid's school
it's on the far left of this google earth road shot

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## Mike1950

vegas urban lumber said:


> close to the corner of flamingo and sandhill. about 6 blocks from my kid's school
> it's on the far left of this google earth road shot
> 
> View attachment 113977


talk to them- can't hurt

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## deltatango

I used to get some pretty big elm, yellow birch burl up in New England back in the late 70's early 80's:

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## deltatango

Course I was a LOT younger then, LOL.

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## deltatango

Mike1950 said:


> I agree oregon has some really cool ones- below now residing in wash. But the burl /figured wood mecca in the PNW is the rainforest.
> 
> View attachment 113970
> 
> View attachment 113971



Those are some beauties Mike. I think some of the very best BLMB comes from Oregon, but I guess it's all over the PCNW.


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## Mike1950

_ love birch burl
_

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## Mike1950

deltatango said:


> Those are some beauties Mike. I think some of the very best BLMB comes from Oregon, but I guess it's all over the PCNW.


west of cascades only

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## deltatango

Yellow birch burl from Vermont can get huge, but in some cases, certain parts can be bland, but it all depends on how it's cut.
Cut it right and it just absolutely shines like rays from the sun.

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## deltatango

Mike1950 said:


> west of cascades only


That narrows it down significantly. So you importing all your burl from over that way?
Probably Western WA and Oregon?


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## Mike1950

deltatango said:


> That narrows it down significantly. So you importing all your burl from over that way?
> Probably Western WA and Oregon?


Most big leaf maple grows in wa. And or. West of cascades. Now some grow in n. Ca. Or s. BC. But in those areas the very disirable white quilt is limited. As is the big burls. It is a weed though and grows everywhere on coast. I am taking grandson to park and will get pics of very cool trees.

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## Mike1950

And yes. No big leaf that i know of grows east of cascades. We are desert climate.

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## rocky1

Interesting article; lots of good info there. Do know it answered a lot of questions I've had about what caused burls anyhow. While I have seen a few burls down here in the south, they're typically few and far between. Occasionally see them on Oak, Cherry Laurel, and other species, more commonly see smaller burls around here on black gum.

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## deltatango

It's funny Rocky, I've only seen a few burls here in Florida, but go over the border into Georgia and they become more plentiful. Must be the soil, or the water, or too much sun, or something. I don't know.
But in Georgia, they start showing up almost right over the border. Strange.


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## rocky1

Difference in the soil maybe Mark. I know here we're pretty much pure sand; very little clay in the soil in this area. (_Unless you try watering a garden, then it all turns into concrete after a night or two of running the sprinkler_). Going north into Georgia, you'll run into red clay within about 40 - 50 miles though. Once you get up north of the Okefenokee Swamp, you start running into a lot of clay, find it up just north of Homerville east to Waycross and west even a little south of Valdosta. Once you get up around Douglas, the fields there are pure red clay, same holds true not far north of Valdosta.

Would be interesting to look around in the Ocala National Forest to see if they're more prevalent there. There are some areas in there where there's a good bit of clay. And, by the same respect, there are areas over your way, with more clay than we have here. Otherwise Florida is pretty sandy! All over!!

Had someone on Craigslist trying to give an oak tree full of burls away here in town, back in June, but from what I was seeing in pictures that one would have required bucket truck and taking it down in pieces. Not much room in the yard to work; wood fence. And, pretty iffy as to whether there was enough burl to make it worth hiring the truck.


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## deltatango

We have orangeburg clay all through our property. Good rich topsoil but a foot or less below it and some places right at the surface orangeburg red clay. Just down the road we have Fuller's Earth, or Floridan clay.


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## rocky1

Here, I'm pretty much pure river sand. Live roughly 3/4 mile off the Suwannee River. In satellite view, you can see the channel has shifted west directly behind us; we were at one time, many moons ago, much closer to the river! There's an oxbow lake back there about 500 yards or so from the SE corner of the field. Thus at flood stage, the river will be up within a half mile of us back there even these days. 

Neighbors to the west are right on the river bank at flood stage, but they're actually fairly high; although at some point in history, the river deposited lots of sand here where we all live.

Below the sand you'll find raw phosphate, aka hardpan or sandstone in these parts. That varies in respect to depth, makes digging post holes interesting at times.


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## Ray D

I spend a lot of time hunting and scouting in the woods of central Florida. I don't see a ton of burls but we do find them on a regular basis. The majority of them are oak. My hunting buddy is new to woodworking and burls so every time he finds a nice burl he sends me a picture. Lol. We once found a downed cypress tree that was covered with burl and by the time we went back to harvest a few it had washed down river after some flooding. There definitely here, just not in large numbers.

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## Kevin

We get a lot of oak burl here in my region and an occasional something else, but 99% oak. Mark that pecan burl looks like it may have come from the Blakely Pecan Tree project???



deltatango said:


> ...But in Georgia, they start showing up almost right over the border. Strange.



Mark since you aren't originally from Florida you probably aren't aware of an obscure law they have forbidding trees to allow burl growth. Trees are mostly a law-abiding organism so thus the lack of burls in Florida. Georgia has no such law which is why you see them on immediately at the border even though the climate is identical.

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## rocky1

Now it makes sense! Much easier than looking for any of that scientific bullpucky, the rare one you find is just an outlaw. Guess we need to be careful harvesting them down here, or all the burl trees will riot and loot, and burn police cars, and other such goodies!!


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## deltatango

Kevin said:


> Mark since you aren't originally from Florida you probably aren't aware of an obscure law they have forbidding trees to allow burl growth. Trees are mostly a law-abiding organism so thus the lack of burls in Florida. Georgia has no such law which is why you see them on immediately at the border even though the climate is identical.



"Why you... why I oughta" 

"Bad burls, bad burls, whatcha gonna do when they come for you? Bad burls, bad burls."

Apparently all the burls were at one time highly prized in Florida. So much so that folks from surrounding states came in and harvested them wantonly and with abandon. They took them back to their states and on the journey, many fell off trucks and rolled into fields along the way. Being highly prized dormant bud burls, of the annual layered type many of which were part aerial, part subteranean, they naturally sprouted right there in amongst the puckerbrush along the highways and byways of adjacent and nearby states. That's pretty much how states devoid of burls got burls to begin with, and how the burl population in Florida was decimated. One state, the then nameless lone star one, came in to harvest burls for use in special movie sets for the block buster tv show the Lone Ranger. The Florida burls were so huge, they used them to build mountain sets where the Lone Ranger and Tonto acted in many scenes and much dialogue was heard, proof of this by the ever popular but politically incorrect saying: "what you mean WE, white man?"

No, the plight of the burl of the state of Florida is sad in deed. Once the burls began to take root in all states surrounding, native Floridians quickly and carefully cut the remaining burls for their own use, before burl-baggers came to confiscate more. Thus today, the reason for the plethora of burls in surrounding states and the dirth of them in Florida.

An obscure anti-burl agrarian law was passed which forbade burl growing and harvesting in the state of Florida, but that law was rescinded by the "He-Coon" him self-Guvna Lawton Chiles during his enlightened term. Now, burls are making a scarce comeback amidst much hardship as natives continue to harvest them at an alarming rate. Burls are used for quasi-war clubs particularly for re-enactment scenes of The Lone Ranger. At one point it was rumored that Jay Silverheels had a significant collection of them, but Clayton spent the rest of his life campaigning against burl harvesting in the state of Florida. This would account for the scacity of burls in Florida.

Edits for typos

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## Kevin

Tanto is knife, kemosabe. Tonto is trusty sidekick.

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## deltatango

Now that is funny.


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## deltatango

Kevin said:


> Tanto is knife, kemosabe. Tonto is trusty sidekick.














Got it - Kemosabe make heap big typo.

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## ripjack13

vegas urban lumber said:


> since the last time i posted a story no pictures and someone said "didn't happen without pictures" here's the pictures of the tree i was talking about
> 
> View attachment 113972
> 
> View attachment 113973
> 
> View attachment 113974
> 
> View attachment 113975



What ever happened with this tree,?


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## vegas urban lumber

it's still standing. offered the landscaper $500 when he takes it out. no action yet

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## ripjack13

Well....I hope you get it and not the chipper!

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## hmmvbreaker

Correct me if I'm wrong fellas, but the growth around a limb that died and fell off is called a gnarl, right?


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## Texasstate

Guys when “hunting” burls that you see on someone’s land. Do y’all go and ask to take the whole tree or do you simply harvest the burls ?

How much would one offer someone who doesn’t really know what they have in their front yard? 

How much of the Burl can you take without harming tree in future?

Any help would be appreciated, I have some potientials that I would love to sway into clients

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## Mr. Peet

Texasstate said:


> Guys when “hunting” burls that you see on someone’s land. Do y’all go and ask to take the whole tree or do you simply harvest the burls ?
> 
> How much would one offer someone who doesn’t really know what they have in their front yard? Burl costs are simply supply and demand. Blacknot cherry burls bring about $5 per 20 pounds in the Blacksburg Virginia area. In my area about a dollar a pound green. You offer fair market value for the area you are in. Bartering with them may also be a great option.
> 
> How much of the Burl can you take without harming tree in future?Nearly none to none. Most US native trees do not handle burl harvesting well, and partial or whole harvest expedites death. Black locust is the only US tree I know (that comes to mind) to handle harvest from a standing tree with minimum impact. Many eucalyptus species can be burl harvested repeatedly. No others come to mind.
> 
> 
> Replies in Red above...
> Any help would be appreciated, I have some potientials that I would love to sway into clients

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## Mike1950

Texasstate said:


> Guys when “hunting” burls that you see on someone’s land. Do y’all go and ask to take the whole tree or do you simply harvest the burls ?
> 
> How much would one offer someone who doesn’t really know what they have in their front yard?
> 
> How much of the Burl can you take without harming tree in future?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated, I have some potientials that I would love to sway into clients



Ask 10 people and get 10 different answers. but IMO cutting a burl off of a tree is sorta like trimming limbs- trees are tenacious -they get damage and heal. Probably in time grow another burl. How much to take off?? again probably not one answer to that- depends on tree and burl.

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## deltatango

It's been my experience from specializing in harvesting burls for over 60 years that cutting burl that are large limb size definitely does NOT kill the tree. Mike is correct, the tree quickly begins to heal itself over. Now if you cut a burl and take off half the tree, essentially down to the heart, then there probably will be a problem. Since Aerial burls are often of the annual layering type, the tree will just continue to grow up and around the burl, gradually adding layers per anum. Dormant bud burls such as black cherry (which are usually annual layered and dormant bud together, can be harvested as long as deep cuts into the tree are not made.

For the most part, cutting a nice round burl off a tree won't hurt it other than to create an eyesore. That's one of the issues of cutting burls in people's yards. Some people care, some don't. Be really careful cutting round shaped burls - they are heavy and they definitely roll like basketballs. If you're on a ladder, a falling burl can go down, and roll over and kick a leg out from under the ladder you are standing on. I usually cut from the top, make a small cut up from the bottom, then wedge the top with wooden wedges (not steel), and once half way through the cut, rope the burl to the tree with a rope knot that allows me to jerk the rope and free the burl from below. That way all the gear, ladder, etc., is out of the way and I can control when the burl falls.

As far as cutting the whole tree - actually only if you want firewood or timber. The burl usually only manifests figure toward its outside and not so much towards the inside of the tree.
One of the reasons loggers didn't like burls on trees, especially in New England, is that they were constantly getting hung on trees when twitching them out in log piles. Frequently they made piles unruly because of the knob sticking out. That is, until they discovered they were good for "beer money".

I wrote the first article on harvesting burls for Fine Woodworking Magazine in 1979, and research I did indicated burls were caused not by insects as was previously thought, but rather damage to the opposite side of the tree several generations back, hence subsequent generations having a genetic predisposition to growing burls. That was the prevailing view on burl growth at the time - not sure science has proved or disproved this theory at this point.

If you harvest a subterranean burl such as on the west coast, depending on how far down you dig and how much you take, chances are pretty good you will kill the tree.

FWIW/YMMV

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## Mike1950

deltatango said:


> It's been my experience from specializing in harvesting burls for over 60 years that cutting burl that are large limb size definitely does NOT kill the tree. Mike is correct, the tree quickly begins to heal itself over. Now if you cut a burl and take off half the tree, essentially down to the heart, then there probably will be a problem. Since Aerial burls are often of the annual layering type, the tree will just continue to grow up and around the burl, gradually adding layers per anum. Dormant bud burls such as black cherry (which are usually annual layered and dormant bud together, can be harvested as long as deep cuts into the tree are not made.
> 
> For the most part, cutting a nice round burl off a tree won't hurt it other than to create an eyesore. That's one of the issues of cutting burls in people's yards. Some people care, some don't. Be really careful cutting round shaped burls - they are heavy and they definitely roll like basketballs. If you're on a ladder, a falling burl can go down, and roll over and kick a leg out from under the ladder you are standing on. I usually cut from the top, make a small cut up from the bottom, then wedge the top with wooden wedges (not steel), and once half way through the cut, rope the burl to the tree with a rope knot that allows me to jerk the rope and free the burl from below. That way all the gear, ladder, etc., is out of the way and I can control when the burl falls.
> 
> As far as cutting the whole tree - actually only if you want firewood or timber. The burl usually only manifests figure toward its outside and not so much towards the inside of the tree.
> One of the reasons loggers didn't like burls on trees, especially in New England, is that they were constantly getting hung on trees when twitching them out in log piles. Frequently they made piles unruly because of the knob sticking out. That is, until they discovered they were good for "beer money".
> 
> I wrote the first article on harvesting burls for Fine Woodworking Magazine in 1979, and research I did indicated burls were caused not by insects as was previously thought, but rather damage to the opposite side of the tree several generations back, hence subsequent generations having a genetic predisposition to growing burls. That was the prevailing view on burl growth at the time - not sure science has proved or disproved this theory at this point.
> 
> If you harvest a subterranean burl such as on the west coast, depending on how far down you dig and how much you take, chances are pretty good you will kill the tree.
> 
> FWIW/YMMV



I agree on all the above except cause. - I think it has more to do with genetics/ maybe environmental in some cases- Big leaf quilt- burl grow in groves. Usually you find one good one there is more. Most walnut comes below graft- just root trying to grow and get rid of parasite tree. PS. absolutely no science- just observation.

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## deltatango



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## deltatango



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## Mr. Peet

1979, it seems like just a few years ago. I enjoyed that article, and for sure it sparked and already growing fire in wood wondering. The article was already 10 years or so old by the time I had read it. I believe I had recently re=read it in the last few years (2013?). One of the lines referred to burls being called 'galls' scientifically. By the time I went through the ringer, 'Galls' were reserved for growths influenced by insects, bacteriums and disease. The definition may have changed since.

The time of origination will directly influence how deep into the tree the distortion may go. I recently observed a 'Sugar maple' burl, upper stem, crown base, that was taken from a tree along a state road. I stopped to observe that a 22" diameter stem had a 14" diameter bowl shaped burl. The burl was already promised to a local crafter. The kid next door sectioned the rest for firewood and one cut bisected the burl severing. The burl figure was 4" inches into the main stem. I was given a section.

As a former USDA forester, I was privileged to a lot of wood professionals, some that deserve credit and some, not so sure about. All of the evidence toward tree health was negative for tree life expectancy following burl harvesting. Most burls lack the genetic defense system that is contained in a branch collar, to respond to damage. *Trees do not heal*, they callus over. CODIT, Compartmentalization In Dead / Disease In Trees, is the common acronym used by tree care managers. Black locust does well in responding to damage beyond the branch collar. The Rose family, Birch family and Maple family do not do well with damages beyond the branch collar. This covers most of the trees in the Northeast USA. The oaks are an exception(excluding the Beech group), and do respond with an extended life expectancy in comparison to the others. The damages caused are similar to root damages, often the evidence of the damages are not evident for a number of years after the initial damages. Sometimes immediate, or a few years or tens of years.

The Eucalyptus group is the only major group to show certain species to survive and regrow burl material. Some other trees have had new burl development after burl harvesting but in other areas of the tree. @deltatango has hit the nail really well, implying the method and amount exposed to damage effects the overall impact.

Another way to express impact: many utility companies will cut a large portion of branches off of a tree on the overhead line side to keep branches away from possible negative influence. Sometimes these trees die from the heavy pruning for multiple reasons. The crowns are off-balanced, and percentages have the dead tree falling away from the utility line. If the trees survive and develop rot, once again it is likely on the utility side of the stem. Rot equals weaker wood and statistically, the rot side fails, the stronger live wood holds and hinges the failure away from the utility.

If your burl is on a branch, harvesting the whole branch may be best, The ISA, International Society of Arboriculture, use the 1/3 ruling. If the removal of the burl exceeds 1/3 the cambium circumference (or 1/3 diameter), it is not recommended. Lacking a branch collar, it would also not be recommended.

Let us know what you do, always neat to learn something new to forget later...

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## deltatango

I was fortunate to grow up with access to land in a wilderness area in upstate NY, where my father had 100 acres of land near Chestertown, NY. It is now part of a state forest, I believe. My father was a surveyor and cartographer in the army in Alaska, and describing him as an outdoorsman would not be an exageration, particularly as he would go out for weeks on end with a two man saw and a pup tent and rough it on his own surveying the shoreline for gun emplacements for the army. The land in upstate New York had many burls on it, and what was unique about this time was the opportunity to see the effect of burl harvested trees. In every case, the trees we harvested burls from lived, and this I witnessed over a 25 year period. However, as Mr. Peet cited the 1/3 rule (which I had not heard of before) I can confirm that in the case of hundreds of trees that were burl harvested, none violated that 1/3 rule. We were always carefull not to cut too deep into the tree. Certain trees that had several burls were usually just cut down, and limbs were cut where burls were found growing on limbs.

Later, while living in New England and following loggers and sometimes logging, I was also able to observe the effects of trimming burls on a wide array of hardwoods. I had a specific interest in burls and focused most of my attention on them while others mostly viewed them as nuisances. So my observations, although anecdotal, were nevertheless concentrated on burl and effects of trimming trees harvesting burls in New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine. For the most part, I witnessed, personally, few trees that died after cutting burls off, particularly if they were cut flush to the tree, which was how it mostly was done in the deep woods, for sheer pragmatism - the chainsaw cut straight down, and it was a goal to obtain a flat surface on the burl being cut. 

Colloquially, people refer to trees “healing over”, however Mr. Pete is correct in that the tree callouses itself, and in some cases, will appear to have grown back over. This is most evident where small branches have been trimmed. The resulting bump or knob should not be confused with a burl, however.

One person’s observations can’t compete with an army of foresters all comparing notes, yet one “researcher” focusing on one specific area of aberation can contribute much to the lexicon of forrestry, even when the information is anecdotal.

It is particularly salient that little or no literature was forthcoming from forest pathologists on burls as far back as the 70’s, and little or none has been done since.

In regard to burls, respect the tree, use Mr. Peet’s example of the 1/3 rule. I’d sooner leave good burl grain in the tree that it remain alive than cut into it to get that last little bit thereby killing the tree. Our rule when harvesting was to always clean up the area after cutting the tree, if we did cut the tree. Show respect for the forest and it will respect you. 

Mark

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## barry richardson

Wow, good stuff here, you guys are taking us to school


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## vegas urban lumber

vegas urban lumber said:


> since the last time i posted a story no pictures and someone said "didn't happen without pictures" here's the pictures of the tree i was talking about
> 
> View attachment 113972
> 
> View attachment 113973
> 
> View attachment 113974
> 
> View attachment 113975


this tree is finally coming down around the first of the year. took 2 years of persistence with the landscaper and the BofA is finally ready to remove it since the top is now all dead. mesquite burl all the way up. i'll be slabbing the logs before the winter is over so that it can dry a bit before the heat gets here

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## Mr. Peet

vegas urban lumber said:


> this tree is finally coming down around the first of the year. took 2 years of persistence with the landscaper and the BofA is finally ready to remove it since the top is now all dead. mesquite burl all the way up. i'll be slabbing the logs before the winter is over so that it can dry a bit before the heat gets here


Look forward to buying some for the wood collection. Hopefully you have enough traits to positively ID the species.


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## vegas urban lumber

Mr. Peet said:


> Look forward to buying some for the wood collection. Hopefully you have enough traits to positively ID the species.


always devil in the details


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## vegas urban lumber

Mr. Peet said:


> Look forward to buying some for the wood collection. Hopefully you have enough traits to positively ID the species.


do you need a close up of the leave structure?
what else signifies species


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## Mr. Peet

vegas urban lumber said:


> do you need a close up of the leave structure?
> what else signifies species



I am not good with mesquite, so hopefully someone else here on WB can be of help...


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## David Van Asperen

@vegas urban lumber 
Looking forward to seeing some photos and put me on the list for a nice slab of wild and crazy figure if you decide to sell some
Thanks in advance
Dave


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## vegas urban lumber

last slab of mesquite burl that was listed here, i got chastised when i though it might be worth $300, as that was way too low. i don't know what it will look like inside, but it could fetch $500 a slab if it's really nice


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## David Van Asperen

That is much nicer than I can afford 
So maybe something from the scrap cut off pile that could make a box top or two
Dave


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## vegas urban lumber

David Van Asperen said:


> That is much nicer than I can afford
> So maybe something from the scrap cut off pile that could make a box top or two
> Dave


i don't know what it will be like or worth yet but i'll be posting pictures for everyone's enjoyment

Reactions: Like 3


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