# Using anchorseal



## txpaulie (May 22, 2012)

Howdy wood-nuts!

I got a 5-gal bucket o' this stuff in the mail yesterday, and need to cut up some pieces of wood I've had lying around...

Questions:
Must I cut off minor, or even major end checking prior to sealing..?

When in log form, do I just seal the ends..?

When in block form, end seal or..?

Will be maple, pecan, mulberry, and oak.

Thanks bunches Ya'll!

p


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## DKMD (May 22, 2012)

Get rid of all the necks and cracks... AS won't keep them from worsening. I end seal logs and completely seal most turning blanks except for spindle blanks like for peppermills.

I think you'll find the mulberry and oak to be more difficult to keep check free than the pecan and maple. Sometimes I'll apply a second coat to log ends and blanks in check prone woods. You're probably better off roughing out forms than trying to preserve whole blanks or logs... At least that's been my experience.


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## brown down (May 22, 2012)

i would cut off the checks, you don't know how deep they are and can't get the seal in there. 

as for how much i always go with two coats sometimes a third depending on the wood. 
i usually seal the entire piece,. that way it really slows the drying process down, especially with burls, i go heavy on them!
when i harvest for myself, i usually get enough to last a long time . I just get the pieces out when i think i will be ready for them, shave off the wax, and put it in my mini kiln.
they usually dry in a couple of weeks that way!


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## DKMD (May 22, 2012)

DKMD said:


> Get rid of all the checks and cracks... AS won't keep them from worsening. I end seal logs and completely seal most turning blanks except for spindle blanks like for peppermills.
> 
> I think you'll find the mulberry and oak to be more difficult to keep check free than the pecan and maple. Sometimes I'll apply a second coat to log ends and blanks in check prone woods. You're probably better off roughing out forms than trying to preserve whole blanks or logs... At least that's been my experience.


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## DKMD (May 22, 2012)

Get rid of all the checks and cracks... AS won't keep them from worsening. I end seal logs and completely seal most turning blanks except for spindle blanks like for peppermills.

I think you'll find the mulberry and oak to be more difficult to keep check free than the pecan and maple. Sometimes I'll apply a second coat to log ends and blanks in check prone woods. You're probably better off roughing out forms than trying to preserve whole blanks or logs... At least that's been my experience.


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## txpaulie (May 22, 2012)

DKMD said:


> Get rid of all the checks and cracks... AS won't keep them from worsening. I end seal logs and completely seal most turning blanks except for spindle blanks like for peppermills.
> 
> I think you'll find the mulberry and oak to be more difficult to keep check free than the pecan and maple. Sometimes I'll apply a second coat to log ends and blanks in check prone woods.  You're probably better off roughing out forms than trying to preserve whole blanks or logs... At least that's been my experience.



You can say that again!

As far as roughing to forms, I expect to send a majority of this stuff to you guys, so's a better question may be, "to what size/shape do I cut..?":i_dunno:

Keep in mind that my chainsaw-fu is weak and I'll expect no parallel or perpendicular cuts!:wacko1:

It will be mostly 6-8" log sections of maple and mulberry, and larger blocks of the mulberry, oak, and pecan, I guess...

p


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## DKMD (May 22, 2012)

Sorry... I don't know why it listed so many times like that... I went back to correct an 'autocorrect' and came away with multiple posts.


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