# Finishing advice needed



## Mabren2 (Mar 25, 2015)

I am a complete newbie to woodworking. Right now I am focused on making some pot calls for my first project. I have been doing a lot of research, and I am getting comfortable with some methods to try for my first calls. Finishing has me a little stumped though. Please keep in mind I have zero experience with this, so I need a few more dummy details than I've been able to find with my research. I have walnut blanks available, so I will start with them. If/when I trash those, I will use other domestic woods. Here come the questions:

1: What finish should I start with? Looking for something quality, durable, and relatively short drying period. I typically see recommendations for multiple coats, with a steel wool buff in-between coats. I can handle that.
2: Do I finish the entire call at once, or do I need to finish one side at a time? 
3: The reason for question 2 is drying. How do I dry the call? Is it hung somehow? I'm assuming if both sides are wet I would damage the finish by simply setting it aside. 
4: Will the same finish work for my striker? If not, please recommend.

I think that will do it for now. Any help offered will be GREATLY appreciated! I hope I haven't asked for too much, but I've researched this for hours and still stumped. With the help of this crowd, hopefully I can make something that talks a little turkey before April 18th!

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## manbuckwal (Mar 26, 2015)

@JR Custom Calls @TMAC @myingling @BrentWin @Final Strut

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 26, 2015)

Probably the most fail proof method, which is one I use a lot, is poly. Sand, wipe on with a paper towel, then buff until it's tacky. I hang them on my pegboard to dry, which doesn't tkae long at all with my method. Buff with 0000 steel wool and recoat a few times. Works just fine on strikers too, but if you're making one piece, you don't want the bottom inch or so to be finished. 

If you ever venture down my way, I'd be glad to give you a demo and answer any questions I could.


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## Final Strut (Mar 26, 2015)

I like to use Tru Oil gun stock finish on my pots. Sand everything out on the lathe first. I wipe on two light coats of Tru Oil making sure it is good and dry between coats. After the second coat I buff it lightly with 0000 steal wool and apply 3-4 more coats buffing between each coat. After the last coat is good and dry I buff one more time very lightly. I do the same thing on the inside of the call but only put three coats on the inside just to make sure it is sealed up good. As an alternative to Tru Oil on the inside I will seal it up with 2-3 coats of CA on the lathe.

For strikers I almost always finish them with 4-6 coats of CA on the lathe and buff with 0000 steal wool after the last coat. like Jonathan said you want to leave the last little bit unfinished.

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## TMAC (Mar 26, 2015)

On pots I use 1 coat of minwax natural oil finish and let it dry overnight. I then start dipping my calls in a 50/50 mix of spar outdoor urethane and mineral spirits. I have a box I hang them in to dry. Sometimes I have a light bulb on in the box to help the finish dry depending on the weather. After 2 or 3 coats I sand lightly with 600 grit paper and continue dipping until I have 6 or 7 coats. You have to dab the drips off the bottom side of the calls for a few minutes after hanging until excess runs off. I have best results hanging pot vertically.
On strikers I don't want them so shiny so after turning and sanding I put a coat of EEE polish on and them buff with Wood Doctor's pen finish or sometimes just a coat of natural oil finish and then buff. I don't put any finish on the striker. The spar / mineral spirits mix came from BrentWin. Works great.

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## Mabren2 (Mar 26, 2015)

JR Custom Calls said:


> Probably the most fail proof method, which is one I use a lot, is poly. Sand, wipe on with a paper towel, then buff until it's tacky. I hang them on my pegboard to dry, which doesn't tkae long at all with my method. Buff with 0000 steel wool and recoat a few times. Works just fine on strikers too, but if you're making one piece, you don't want the bottom inch or so to be finished.
> 
> If you ever venture down my way, I'd be glad to give you a demo and answer any questions I could.



Thanks Jonathan, I would love to swing by sometime. Hopefully we can set that up one day. What poly product are you using? Any poly from lowes, or a wipe on specific like Watco wipe on poly? When you say buff, are you using the paper towel applicator to buff until tacky? Thanks for your help!


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 26, 2015)

Well, what I do is I wipe a nice heavy coat on initially. Let it soak in for 10 or 15 seconds, then spin it at about 1500 rpms with a dry paper towel. I use viva brand, which are the best for finishing IMO. It'll be a little tacky, but not so much that you can't touch it without leaving a mark. Once it dries for an hour or so, buff and repeat. After 3-4 coats, I do a final buff with steel wool for a nice satin finish.

I've yet to figure out a gloss method this way, even though I use gloss poly. 

I use minwax wipe on from lowes. According to Aaron Wingert, it holds up pretty well against bug spray, although I don't feel that is an incredibly important thing. In all my years of hunting, I've never sprayed my calls with skeeter repellant lol


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## Mabren2 (Mar 26, 2015)

Thanks, that's what I needed! I am assuming since the inside won't be seen a couple coats will be sufficient to seal it off, or do I need 3-4 coats inside and out?

I agree with the bug spray. I hate the stuff anyway. Maybe we can get together and invent the thermacell combo pot and end that issue once and for all! Haha


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## BrentWin (Mar 27, 2015)

I use a coat of BLO to make the figure pop and then use several coats of satin wipe on poly. If the customer wants high gloss, I use my 50/50 spar mix and wipe that on. Which ever I use on the outside, I wipe the inside with the 50/50, due to it's better water resistance.


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## JR Custom Calls (Mar 27, 2015)

Mabren2 said:


> Thanks, that's what I needed! I am assuming since the inside won't be seen a couple coats will be sufficient to seal it off, or do I need 3-4 coats inside and out?


A
I usually just do a heavy coat inside. And use a q tip for the holes. Since almost all of mine are stabilized, it's more of a visual thing for mine.


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## BrentWin (Mar 27, 2015)

I will put several coats on the inside, basically, until it stops soaking in.


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## Mabren2 (Mar 27, 2015)

Thanks guys, very much! I'm gonna start with the wipe on poly to get started, and eventually start trying other methods. Hopefully I'll have something to post pics of in the next week or so.


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## Mabren2 (Mar 28, 2015)

BrentWin said:


> I use a coat of BLO to make the figure pop and then use several coats of satin wipe on poly. If the customer wants high gloss, I use my 50/50 spar mix and wipe that on. Which ever I use on the outside, I wipe the inside with the 50/50, due to it's better water resistance.



If I use a coat of BLO first, roughly how long should I wait before applying the poly?


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## jbowers (Mar 28, 2015)

I use a wipe on poly too. I wipe it on, let dry. Once I get 3-4 coats I hit it with 0000 steel wool then repeat until I get it built up like I want. You can get a pretty good gloss this way too, it just take a few days BC you have to let it dry completely between coats usually 6 hours

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