# Wood stove restoration thread



## Strider (Oct 12, 2017)

Hear ye, hear ye! 
For a very long time, a decade or so, I have been looking at those carry on, lightweight stoves for the outdoors and Pinterest inspired mass heaters for cozy homes, observing and learning each time something new. Blessed be Youtube!
Since my home has a stone tiled floor, it gets reaaaaaally cold during the winter. I can endure it, and frankly enjoy it (I am happy to put some extra whiskey in my tea), but my mom is getting old and the electricity prices rise dramatically. We have an electrical boiler that heats up water which circulates through the pipes and into the radiators throughout the house. One cold winter the bill rose up to 1500 USD (at that time's currency exchange), which is her whole paycheck plus a little bit more. FOR ONE MONTH! We had some options considered- switching to gas, but the prices will vary in the future- most of it is Russian and you know that they tend to block it because of bad diplomacy from time to time, and we would have to either connect the pipes with the skyscraper nearby (expensive) or get the whole street of houses do the same (impossible, people are idle-minded). Other one is oil, but the prices rise as well annually, and it doesn't last too long. 
So, in order to prevent something expensive and time costly like that, I decided to build a super efficient mass heater in our living room, next to the couch.

I have some materials, and in some I will invest. For starters I made a list of things to get:
-Clay
-Ash
-Quartz sand
-Firebricks
-Fireproof mortar
-T section ceramic pipe
-One big steel pipe
-One smaller steel pipe of equal length
-Chimney steel enameled pipe
-Steel barrel
-More bricks (don't have to be fireproof)
-Smaller steel or copper pipes (air intake)
-River stones for heat build up mass and decoration
-A lot of pine resin
-One thermal glass piece for visual effects (not for practical use such as doors)
-Two metal trays/pans/whatever for ash collection

I have found a place where I would build it and the dimensions fit. There are many ways to do it, but I would prefer the "J" cross section. I only have to figure out how to connect it to the chimney as we don't have one. I would also pull the chimney metal pipe through my mom's room so that she gets the excess heat. The room is small and would heat up nicely even with that small amount.
Soooo...stand by and get inspired!


All tips are welcome! :)

Loris

Reactions: Like 5


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## Tony (Oct 12, 2017)



Reactions: Agree 1


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## barry richardson (Oct 12, 2017)

Looking forward to seeing the build Loris! A picture is worth a thousand words......

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950 (Oct 12, 2017)

Make sure that floor-foundation can handle all that weight. Mass heaters by definition are very heavy. I have seen a few built and they start with a massive chunk of concrete underneath... Sounds like a good Idea


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## Strider (Oct 12, 2017)

I found ceramic pipe and "cube" segments for making a chimney up in the attic. The "cube" is a piece of fireproof coarse ground sand with red mortar and a hole inside to fit the pipe. Aroun the main hole there are four holes in the corners for air circulation. I will probably fill some up for the mass. All pipes have a lip on top and bottom to be connected with other popes. So I saved some time and money right from the start! Also a ceramic T pipe segment (all three joints are round and same in cross section), but the one I found is extra long and has a hole in the middle, like a small rectangular openin from the middle of the pipe. I will probably cut it in half and seal one side. 

@Mike1950 I agree. Although I have a stone floor, I will rise it a bit to prevent any kind of damage to it. I have the exact same stones in a big stock, and inch or so thick, so I might use them, or I might get bricks. I will have to see how it behaves in the heat. Whatever I use I am ready to conceal it with clay and decoration. I don't want my living room to look Eastern Slavic! :D

Since I found the cubes, I don't really need regular bricks. I will line the combustion segment- T section ceramic pipe- with fireproof brick, and in thick manner, lined with sand as well. 

And, I found a propane tank in the attic as well. It might substitute the barrel and it is far thicker. I just need to Google how to remove the valve in order to cut it up. I don't want to loose and arm in the explosion.


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## Strider (Oct 12, 2017)

Pipes* not popes. Vatican needs only one Pope!


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## Wildthings (Oct 12, 2017)




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## Strider (Oct 13, 2017)

So, this is what I have in the attic; there is plenty more, but I am not building it that big. 
At first I thought of making a combustion chamber in the T section pipe, but this one is far bigger than the one I had before, and it has a rectangular opening, instead of another pipe being connected to the main pipe. It does me no good. Also, you can see the "cubes". 
However, I have found a 5 year old propane tank...still full, I checked. I think it might do better than a barrel- for one, it is far smaller, and two, it is thicker so there is less chance it will burnout. 
I made several sketches and this one is promising. Your opinion matters, so opinionate away! :D


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## Strider (Oct 19, 2017)

Just a weekly update!
I emptied the gas tank by opening the valve. I know there is a lot more of it to cause a big bang and fly my arms to somebody's garden, so I will not yet cut it. I have to take off the main valve, which requires some muscles, after which I will buy dry ice and fill it up while I cut it, just to take all oxygen out. I am still wondering should I flip the tank upside down or leave it as it should sit.


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## Mike1950 (Oct 19, 2017)

Strider said:


> Just a weekly update!
> I emptied the gas tank by opening the valve. I know there is a lot more of it to cause a big bang and fly my arms to somebody's garden, so I will not yet cut it. I have to take off the main valve, which requires some muscles, after which I will buy dry ice and fill it up while I cut it, just to take all oxygen out. I am still wondering should I flip the tank upside down or leave it as it should sit.



Let us know when yer going to cut so we can hunker down inside.....

Reactions: Funny 3


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## Lou Currier (Oct 19, 2017)




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## rocky1 (Oct 20, 2017)

Goes without saying, but exercise caution playing with the dry ice. 

1.) It shouldn't be used in a confined space, as I'm sure you know. And...

2.) You should never touch it without gloves on. It freezes bare skin in a matter of seconds.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Strider (Oct 21, 2017)

Thanks for caring! ;) 
When I was in Belgrade, MT, for a demolition derby race...we went to the workshop with a couple of rednecks, and they threw a small coke bottle filled with it...boy...it was a laugh :D One of the blokes had had a heart surgery like a week before that and it didn't stop him from bashing other cars LOL! What a time!

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## rocky1 (Oct 21, 2017)

There's a few cowboys left out there! And, they do know how to have fun!!

When I was traveling back and forth between Florida and North Dakota I'd pack a cooler full of Choice Midwest Sirloin steaks and bring back to Florida. Had dry ice stops mapped out all along the way until I figured that program out, then I could go 4 - 5 days without adding ice. Early into the learning process, I stopped in St. Joe, Missouri one time, and the wife reached in and grabbed the block of dry ice in the freezer, before I could tell her, "DO NOT grab the block itself!" You pick it up by a corner of the bag if you don't have gloves. 

It didn't take but a couple seconds and she realized she'd made a mistake by which time I was trying my best to get it away from her. Fingertips were frozen to the bag, and she had to snatch them loose. It actually blistered two of her fingers, and that was in a matter of maybe 4 - 5 seconds. Stuff is at -105o F. (-78.7o C.) 

Came home in a car one trip with the cooler in the trunk, drove the whole 2000 miles with the window down. Wasn't impressed with that deal, I liked it a whole lot better on the back of the truck!!


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## Mike1950 (Oct 21, 2017)

Strider said:


> Thanks for caring! ;)
> When I was in Belgrade, MT, for a demolition derby race...we went to the workshop with a couple of rednecks, and they threw a small coke bottle filled with it...boy...it was a laugh :D One of the blokes had had a heart surgery like a week before that and it didn't stop him from bashing other cars LOL! What a time!


 I entered in a demolition derby once- came in second- 59 chev station wagon. I paid $75 bucks for it- drove it for a while. won $75 for second- sold the transmission and motor for $175. If was fun- I was doing great but was outmatched by the 57 lincoln continental. It was the premier dmo car of that era. BIG stout fins- Big front bumper that stuck out- lots of mass and HP. he spent most of his time in reverse poking hole in radiators with those big fins. It was fun- I was 21.

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## Strider (Oct 22, 2017)

Sounds waaaaay more fun than what I did when I was 21! :S And you gained some money on it haha! 

Gotcha- I am not touching it without gloves. I do have those heavy duty washing latex gloves, and I will wear woolen underneath. 

The tank will have a hole big enough for the gas to escape- the valve hole. I am just making plans how to cut it and ordering clay.

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## Strider (Nov 7, 2017)

Update*
I cannot unscrew the valve, no matter what I try- I just lack muscles and lever pipes. And as it turns out, it is hard to get people's help when doing propane tank things :P So, I made a few calls and got a hold of two tanks, one without valve and the other one that is Slovenian made, across the border, so they cannot use it here in Croatia, and it is inappropriate. They will try to take the valve for me. Thereby I can finally start working on the project! :D

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## Mike1950 (Nov 7, 2017)

Strider said:


> Update*
> I cannot unscrew the valve, no matter what I try- I just lack muscles and lever pipes. And as it turns out, it is hard to get people's help when doing propane tank things :P So, I made a few calls and got a hold of two tanks, one without valve and the other one that is Slovenian made, across the border, so they cannot use it here in Croatia, and it is inappropriate. They will try to take the valve for me. Thereby I can finally start working on the project! :D


I might be mistaken but I think they are threaded opposite way.


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## Strider (Nov 7, 2017)

They have a cement on thread which will not give in no matter how hard I whack it!


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## Strider (Jan 18, 2018)

The guy never made a call, so I had to find a new supply. We bought a kerosene heater and it work really well- the temperature rises twice than it was: 7 to 14 C. Still bearable, in the big living room connected with kitchen. So it isn't bad. I just received a CO alarm meter and it did measure 60 ppm in mom's room when the heater was in it. Heats up the room pretty hot if it's small.


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## rocky1 (Jan 18, 2018)

60 ppm you're good! Must have really good air over there in Croatia, most of our cities over here are higher than that walking around outside. 

Had a propane heater fail at work one time, working with all the doors closed. Everyone was getting dizzy, nauseous, we all thought we were the only one. My daughter got sick, threw up, I evacuated the building immediately. Shut the heaters down, opened all the doors, called the boss, watched everyone for a little bit before sending them home. Boss called the gas company, I had 3 - 12 x 16 ft. garage doors open, 2 walk-in doors open, gas man arrived 45 minutes later, we were still over 1000 ppm in the building. Not a good situation. Found the flue cracked in one of the heaters, pipe was about half plugged up with dead bees and rust. Was not good!! You definitely want to be careful with that.


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## Strider (Jan 18, 2018)

Good, fresh air we do have...considering there's a power plant within 15 miles. Really, not a joke, it all goes up. We have strong, strong winds coming from the mountains and also the sea. Salty air is heavy, so all the crap goes up! I am afraid of it, as it is so silent and odorless. Not for me, but for my mom. When it's nice and cozy, the eyelids are heavy. 

Right now, in the living room, it's not even reading it after two hours on low setting.

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## sprucegum (Jan 27, 2018)

Strider said:


> They have a cement on thread which will not give in no matter how hard I whack it!


Scrap yard guys sometimes just break them off with a sledge hammer. Most of them are brass so they break pretty easy.


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## Strider (Nov 22, 2018)

Thread resurrection. I bought an old wood stove from a friend. Basically salvaged it. It is tall and round, like a pipe, with nice ornaments. Turns out there is only about 5 of those in the nearby countries. Mine is 6th! Pretty cool story behind it, and I am working to check whether or not it is true.

So, instead of building my own rocket stove, I will modify this one to become one, and add pipes for a secondary or perhaps event tertiary burners!

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## Strider (Nov 24, 2018)

'ere she is! lovely work. I took the cast iron paint off with a wire brush...until the drill brush died on me LoL! The stove has perfect sized chamber for a stove (height I mean).
I will either make fireproof clay mixture to coat the inside not to risk high temp coming through the sides, or insert that chimney pipe from previous photos...should it fit- even better for the rocket effect. I would also insert piping with holes for secondary combustion in upper part. It won+t hurt the cast iron, but I might get high temp flue, at least for first 6 ft.

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## Mike1950 (Nov 24, 2018)

My guess is, might be coal stove. will work for wood.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## rocky1 (Nov 24, 2018)

Looks like a heckuva stove Loris! 

Lots of potential for warm nights there.


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## gman2431 (Nov 24, 2018)

Very cool stove! I use a stand up like that in work shop. I agree with Mike it's a coal stove.


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## Strider (Nov 28, 2018)

So, I took some time today to work around the house and on this wood stove. I guess it is (or at least was used as one), as my friend's family, previous owners, used beech, oak, hornbeam and pretty much anything, any junk wood that burnt. That's why I am amazed that the bricks (wavy tiles really) are in such good shape. They used this one every winter since they were in that house, and before that it belonged to his grandparents. A long history of use and abuse? I think so. That's why I will take good care of it. 

I could not, in a million years, unscrew the cast iron top, and better yet, I think it wasn't really supposed to be screwed, I think it was altered- see the top of the crushed and coarse layer of clay. Tjese screws had been added. They are welded hard, and rusted. See them on the rim, upper side. The holes aren't perfectly aligned on the outer steel case and luckily it is steel after all! The casing has a paint layer, plasticy feel, I don't know, black in color, that had been covered in silver paint later on. So I was careful about it. I wouldn't want plastic on a wood stove. It is in good shape, considering years. I might take it apart and hit the bumps from within, after removing bricks. 



The cast iron top has rusted, after I cleaned it with a wire brush and killed my drill. No hard work for a steel brush and some WD40. It consists of two parts- see the exit flue split in two. That lower part is also screwed on, but with original screws, and also welded and rusted due to heath. I wouldn't even make a turn without ruining the screw head or the thread. But I don't really need to take it of at all, it has a perfect fit, no clatter. I would, however, add a piece of steel to the keyhole on the top side and weld it (intended for pot holder, which I will not use- 6 ft flames here baby! )...


 

I wanted to make my own fire resistant clay, but this ceramic chimney flue (from my house) will fit inside when I just file out a cm of waves. Perfect fit for it. I would fill the gaps with sand or clay. What do you guys think? Will the thermal shock crack the flue? 


 

I removed the added brick layer to see the insulation between the tiles and steel case. Only this rocks to be found...whatever they are. I would rather insert ceramic wool. The cast iron grill cannot be removed from the bottom. It has two parts- the circle and the movable center (ash disposal?). But no point moving it, just cleaning. 


 
You can see two screws. I cleaned it and sprayed with WD40. No cracks, only slight pitting due to flames. I will fill out any gaps with cermic rope when I put it back. The flue hole is on both sides, top and bottom- exhaust regulator. I have disasambled it so it cannot be seen here.


 

To bee continued, I have to drive my girl to the movies.


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## gman2431 (Nov 28, 2018)

Loris, why can't you just burn wood for heat? I'm sure there's an answer I dont know...

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## rocky1 (Nov 28, 2018)

Loris, the small rock on the outside, was at one time mortar outside the fire tile (_brick_) in the lining. It's probably crumbled over the years from excessive heat, and expansion and contraction of the steel. The movable grate in the bottom is there to sift coals and ash, or in the case of coal "clinkers" and increase air flow up the middle. Should be a handle extends to the outside, or at least many stoves of that nature incorporated them on the movable grate.

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## Strider (Nov 28, 2018)

Oh, no, no, do not get me wrong- I will use wood as fuel!  I saw a couple of videos on how to make a container for burning pellets and saw dust cakes in a regular stove. You just need to...airify them. If you put them in a pile, they will just smolder and die out.

Yes, I see your point. Didn't even think it through. And thanks- mortar was the work I was looking for. Mortar, on top of the rim, not bricks :DDD Sorry, guys, I am still learning! The grate (a second new one!) has a handle, correct...the very middle portion with parallel grill can be moved back and forth, quite a bit.

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## gman2431 (Nov 28, 2018)

Got ya! 

Didn't know the laws of the land over there and if it was somehow not allowing you to get/use wood.


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## Strider (Nov 28, 2018)

Aye, wood is allowed here. We have plenty of sources for good quality wood. The gas is an issue- Ukraine and Russia sometimes ban it for Europe for political reasons, hence to us. It is quite expensive. nafta as well. I have a forest behind the house, a small one, so I have firewood in form of dead wood. Technically speaking, cutting it on your own is strongly prohibited, but rarely enforced. You can't take a chainsaw and go saw half the trees to your liking. There isn't even licenses to do that. You have to buy it from the sawmills, which give out moldy crap sometimes, at a high price. Nowdays the wood price per m3 is about 75 + USD. For. one. meter. 3! Ridiculous!

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## rocky1 (Nov 28, 2018)

Strider said:


> Yes, I see your point. Didn't even think it through. And thanks- mortar was the work I was looking for. Mortar, on top of the rim, not bricks :DDD Sorry, guys, I am still learning! The grate (a second new one!) has a handle, correct...the very middle portion with parallel grill can be moved back and forth, quite a bit.



When burning coal, especially poorer grades of coal, there will be some material that does not burn... dirt, rock, different non-flammable minerals. It forms a molten mass, commonly referred to as slag, or in the case coal, once cooled it solidifies and is referred to as "Clinkers". Not trying to overload your English dictionary all at once, but... The extensive movement of that center grate allows one to rattle those clinkers around pretty good in the stove to break them up and allow them to fall through the bottom grate. 

Coal would generate a great deal more heat if you could find it, BTUs are several times that of wood. Not sure how expensive that is over there, but it smells pretty nasty burning. It's difficult to start a fire with coal, but if you get a good fire burning with wood, then drop the coal chunks in on top, it'll generally take off without a problem. Out in plains states here, coal is very reasonably priced. Anyone working at the power plant where I was in ND could haul all they wanted home for personal use for free, so a lot of the guys did use coal stoves out there where I was. And, the coal mines there do sell to outside parties as well.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## rocky1 (Nov 28, 2018)

Double post!


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## gman2431 (Nov 28, 2018)

Strider said:


> Aye, wood is allowed here. We have plenty of sources for good quality wood. The gas is an issue- Ukraine and Russia sometimes ban it for Europe for political reasons, hence to us. It is quite expensive. nafta as well. I have a forest behind the house, a small one, so I have firewood in form of dead wood. Technically speaking, cutting it on your own is strongly prohibited, but rarely enforced. You can't take a chainsaw and go saw half the trees to your liking. There isn't even licenses to do that. You have to buy it from the sawmills, which give out moldy crap sometimes, at a high price. Nowdays the wood price per m3 is about 75 + USD. For. one. meter. 3! Ridiculous!



This is what I was wondering.

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## Strider (Nov 29, 2018)

There were a few individuals I've heard using rock coal (antracite), and the stories were hilarious - you could walk in your t- shirt around the house, or that the neighbour's house is warm as well. Ha! But most had holes in the steel after not much use. Too hot! I hope you mean charcoal- that I can make! :p

Most of the shop stoves are rectangular and made out of thin sheet steel with easily replaceable bricks. Not the most durable imho. Older ones are cast iron, or, in the north, glazed brick around a simple flue. Now that's efficient and they last!


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## Strider (Nov 29, 2018)

Most of the antracite mines and factories closed long ago due to health and environmental issues they cause. Europe, what can I say!


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## rocky1 (Nov 29, 2018)

No not charcoal, they are using lignite or anthracite.


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## Strider (Nov 29, 2018)

I see. Must be well insulated then!


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## Strider (Dec 4, 2018)

Another fuel update:
I found out that I can use sawdust for fuel, and that it has the best cost-weight-burn time-BTU ratio of all! But it succumbs most to humidity and I have it in abundance :P 
Also, the paper and cardboard I have collected behind my house will be used to make myself those fuel bricks- when mixed in water with fine sawdust and/or crushed charcoal and squeezed in a mold, I will be able to convert it into something useful. Charcoal, will, of course, be a byproduct of wood gas. You can give me some tips, @justallan :P

I have not yet taken out the brick or mortar from the stove but have shaped the inner bricks so the ceramic flue can fit inside it. For the new mortar I found a source laying under my nose. In the workshop, I have college's old aluminium silicate bricks, broken, crumbled, used and abused. I will crush them to a powder and use as mortar...now, how should I and what with mix that powder to get a proper mortar? Ceramic blanket is also what I would put between the old bricks and the new ceramic flue inside the stove, and under the cast iron top.

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## justallan (Dec 9, 2018)

I'm not sure how I make charcoal would help you out much Loris, due to the amount of wood that is wasted in the process.
What I do to make charcoal is fill a 30 gallon oil drum crammed full with small DRY wood, seal it with no leaks except one or two small holes in the bottom, set that drum inside a 55 gallon drum and cram wood, twigs and anything that will burn around the small drum, then light it. You want to bring the temperature up to about 500 degrees for about an hour or until it burns down to nothing. After it cools you should have charcoal inside the small drum.
If you have a good supply of sawdust close by there are some great video about making bricks for burning on you-tube.
Hope that helps a little.


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## Strider (Dec 13, 2018)

New update! :)

I've removed the mortar, and the firebricks, too, using a chisel and a hammer. Turns out the mortar is made out of clay, now in a form of fine red dust. If it hasn't been changed, I am truly amazed at the shape it is in and how well it held. Virtually untouched, both the freaking dense firebricks and the mortar behind it. The outer shell not so much...The steel is heavily corroded and very, very thin. Less than one millimeter, and very pliable, due to being annealed every time the stove was lit.

The upper layer, though being still pretty good, took most of the thermal shock so it was the easiest to remove. Cracks everywhere.




Corroded steel. I reckon there was some moisture from the clay that kept being locked in there.




A signature, who knows how old. "lu-ču". It is Slavic, but it will take a loooong research to find out what is it. Also some numbers, perhaps model number?




There is an emblem too, which will help in that quest. A rectangle, turned point down, with the corners cut, and inscription "MIAG" inside.




A better piece



Lots of adult puzzles to play with!


 

In conclusion, I have decided to remove the metal shell, and get a better one, thicker SS steel one. Perhaps even longer. The current one is 500 mm long, but I could find a longer replacement, just to store more fuel inside. It makes no difference, in my opinion.

Tell me what you think!

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## justallan (Dec 13, 2018)

Confucius says, "If you ever need a $5 woodstove, go pay $200 and let @Strider clean it. LOL
Keep going man, you'll get this thing figured out.

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## Strider (Dec 30, 2018)

A lot of progress!

I was searching hard for a stainless steel pipe fi 220 x 500 tall and 1 mm thick 304. There virtually none of that measurement, unless if I found an insulated external ss flue and cut it all apart, which would prove too costly and with extra spare parts. So I thought about making my own. Well, not by myself, but to give someone a piece of ss plate and have them weld the edge or rolled seam the edge. Since I only have a lot of big factories, finding someone to do it for me was hard. But after a lot of phone calls, one guy heard the burden in my voice (wanting it for my ma, as a Christmas present), he offered help. He made it in no time, and very accurate as well. Hats down to him. 

Until I got my hands on one I wire brushed and dunked all the rusty cast iron parts into white vinegar for a few hours (days also, I am forgetful), then into soapy water bucket and then repeat. Wire brush, vinegar, water and a little bit of WD40 in the end. Beautiful dark gray/blue patina. I will degrease them with nitro before painting them.

Yesterday I went to a hardware store to buy high temperature silicone matte spray, 4,5 pounds of refractory dust (the one which can be mixed with regular water), 1200 C silicone sealant intended for kilns and such, and of course refractory bricks, 250x125x30 mm. Twelve of them...in my backpack! :D 

Pics soon.

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## Strider (Sep 22, 2019)

Slow progress, but progress indeed.
Removing the rust with phosphoric acid., painting it black. Drilling the holes was a pain in the ass though. Several fittings before the summer job begun. Then I assembled the bricks, and added 
The extra pipe for secondary air inlet.

Reactions: Way Cool 1 | Creative 1


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## Strider (Dec 30, 2019)

Coming home, I had to continue. It was relatively hot until two three days ago...from 16C to...5C. So I want to rush, to get the house warm. 

I fired up the stove to test the insulation and the air intake pipe for secondary combustion. Unfortunately, I cut only the upper part, above the pipe joint, using the angle grinder, and 6 holes on the hex cap. It works only when the stove is overfed with wood. I think it might be fused to the lower part at the moment so I can't take it out and cut it some more :D
But, I have not sealed the cast iron head with clay from within, or bolted it at all. I just dry fitted it. So, I will know if the pipe works only when I seal the gate airtight- it doesn't have a piece of glass yet, to serve as a window. Only then will I see if there is any use of the pipe. And I have to seal all parts to prevent smoke leakage.

White hot heart core during day light. 


 

The stove has a naturally good draft, being cigarette shaped. And without any aid, the flames vortex inside. For you who don't understand why it is important...it really isn't that much, but vortexing just burns more stuff within less space. A curve uses more space than a straight line. 
Also there is no smoke or debris once the stove gets hot. 


 

The secondary air intake ignited at this point 


 

The grate holds embers well. They don't move when I open the first gates. 
Do you really think this might be a coal stove?


 

What do you lads think? I appreciate honesty! 

I left it to burn outside at this point (this is the following day, second burn) and you can see how high the temperature is, judging by the white color of embers. At this point there was no fire, just the embers. 
Outside temperature...well...lets say I don't want my fingertips burnt. It is below 180 C as the stainless steel didn't change colors like it does when tempering. Well, except at the top, where I didn't insulate it, as I mentioned before.

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## Strider (Oct 9, 2020)

Hello everybody! 
I've returned home from the UK endeavor after 9 months. Straight back to knife making and this woodstove. 
I made several videos so you can take a look. 

Tell. Me what you think of it! :) 

Cheers!

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