# Looking for a really thin kerf blade for basket bottoms



## sprucegum (Jun 2, 2017)

My wife and some of her friends are into basket making. Sometimes they use a solid wood bottom that has a saw cut around the perimeter that they stick the ends of the splint or reed into to start the basket. I have tried to make some for her in the past by cutting the slot with the thinnest kerf blade I have but it was too wide. Anyone have any ideas? Seems like around 1/16" would be good. Something to go on my variable speed router and use in the router table would be ideal but a circular blade in the table saw would work. It does not need to be very large diameter as the slots are not very deep. They pay quite a bit for plain pine bottoms while I use pretty scraps of wood to start the fire with.


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## Tony (Jun 2, 2017)

Maybe try a 7-1/2" circular saw blade? I've never measured them, but it seems there are thinner ones than table saw blades. Tony


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## gman2431 (Jun 2, 2017)

A wing cutter would work great. I lack terminology so let me snap a pic of what we use at work. Lol


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## gman2431 (Jun 2, 2017)

https://jet.com/product/detail/3ee0...&clickid=6fe228c6-49b1-4e12-b44a-ac208f1ee080

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Jun 2, 2017)

They make a 1/16 router bit

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## gman2431 (Jun 2, 2017)

Mike1950 said:


> They make a 1/16 router bit



Those things snap so easy... Main reason we run wing cutter or even aggreagate saw blades in small kerf for vertical stuff compared to those.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 1


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## Mike1950 (Jun 2, 2017)

gman2431 said:


> Those things snap so easy... Main reason we run wing cutter or even aggreagate saw blades in small kerf for vertical stuff compared to those.



Never used one- but I bet they do break easily.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## vegas urban lumber (Jun 2, 2017)

you might try some of the blades available for dremel and or the rockwell sonicrafter

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## rocky1 (Jun 2, 2017)

I've got a Diablo Thin Kerf 9"blade, I believe it's 3/32". I know they are available in 7 1/4" blades, whether those are narrower or not I couldn't tell you. Bought mine off Amazon.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 2, 2017)

gman2431 said:


> https://jet.com/product/detail/3ee0...&clickid=6fe228c6-49b1-4e12-b44a-ac208f1ee080


 

Thanks that is exactly what I am looking for, I had no idea that they made router bits that cut that thin of a dado.

Reactions: Like 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 2, 2017)

Router table is definitely the way to go for speed and safety.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## sprucegum (Jun 2, 2017)

gman2431 said:


> https://jet.com/product/detail/3ee0...&clickid=6fe228c6-49b1-4e12-b44a-ac208f1ee080



That was just too easy they sell them on EBAY same price free shipping and I had cash on my PP account. I should be whipping up basket bottoms in no time.

Reactions: Way Cool 2


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## gman2431 (Jun 2, 2017)

sprucegum said:


> That was just too easy they sell them on EBAY same price free shipping and I had cash on my PP account. I should be whipping up basket bottoms in no time.



Have fun!


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## rocky1 (Jun 2, 2017)

I'm not making baskets, and I want one of those! That's a sweet little set!!

If for some reason it doesn't work for you Dave, I checked on the 7 1/4" Diablo Thin Kerf blade to satisfy my own curiosity, and kerf is actually just a hair under 1/16" on that blade .059", whereas 1/16" works out to .062".


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## barry richardson (Jun 2, 2017)

rocky1 said:


> I'm not making baskets, and I want one of those! That's a sweet little set!!
> 
> If for some reason it doesn't work for you Dave, I checked on the 7 1/4" Diablo Thin Kerf blade to satisfy my own curiosity, and kerf is actually just a hair under 1/16" on that blade .059", whereas 1/16" works out to .062".


Yea I have one, come in pretty handy sometimes, but I think the wing cutters is the way to go on the edge of a small board I.e. basket bottom...

Reactions: Agree 2


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## sprucegum (Jun 2, 2017)

barry richardson said:


> Yea I have one, come in pretty handy sometimes, but I think the wing cutters is the way to go on the edge of a small board I.e. basket bottom...



After looking at some of the bottoms they use I am sure the router table is the only way to be relatively safe, some of them are round and as small as 5". They pay anywhere from $5 - $15 each for them. I am thinking that after making a few jigs and templates that I could make quite a stack of them in a couple hours. Oak is a popular wood for them, I don't have much oak but I have a pile of ash that I don't have any plans for. Many of them are made of Baltic birch plywood "yuck". Maybe I should introduce the ladies to, curl, spalt, and birds eye.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## onhillww (Jun 4, 2017)

You can do this by hand - .020" kerf
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...Fretting/Japanese_Fret_Slot_Cleaning_Saw.html
Other Fret saws exist as well.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 4, 2017)

onhillww said:


> You can do this by hand - .020" kerf
> http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...Fretting/Japanese_Fret_Slot_Cleaning_Saw.html
> Other Fret saws exist as well.


Already ordered the wing cutter for my router, and due to arthritis, tendonitis , and a bunch of other tis's that no one has a name for I avoid hand tools at all cost.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## sprucegum (Jun 8, 2017)

My wing cutter came yesterday so I knocked out a couple bottoms. 8" round was that they wanted so I roughed out a template on my bandsaw then trued it on the lathe. Roughed out a couple blanks and used the template to trim them true on my router table. Used the 1/16" wing cutter to cut the slot and guess what it was not tight enough to hold the basket reed. By my calculations I need about a 1 MM cutter any ideas?


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## Blueglass (Jun 8, 2017)

Pricey but?http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Saws/Fret_Slotting_Table_Saw_Blade.html


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## kweinert (Jun 8, 2017)

Laser?

And is the 1/16" actually the correct size and it's because you're cutting a slot in something round that the slot ends up wider?

Sorry, I'm just an issue forming a mental image of what it is you're trying to accomplish so I've probably asked a dumb question above. Wouldn't be the first time, I assure you. :)


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## sprucegum (Jun 8, 2017)

Blueglass said:


> Pricey but?http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Saws/Fret_Slotting_Table_Saw_Blade.html


They don't give those away do they?

Reactions: Agree 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 8, 2017)

kweinert said:


> Laser?
> 
> And is the 1/16" actually the correct size and it's because you're cutting a slot in something round that the slot ends up wider?
> 
> Sorry, I'm just an issue forming a mental image of what it is you're trying to accomplish so I've probably asked a dumb question above. Wouldn't be the first time, I assure you. :)




Here are a couple of pictures, although the reed is sort of snug they want them so that some effort is required to insert them otherwise the have to use some sort of shim to hold them in place.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## kweinert (Jun 8, 2017)

Well, duh.

Told you I didn't have a good mental image. Somehow I had it in my mind that you were making the groove on the *flat* side, not the edge - thus my dumb question.

Thanks for sharing what was probably obvious to everyone else.


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## gman2431 (Jun 8, 2017)

Find a local place that sharpens carbide and have them dimension your wing cutter. There should be enough carbide to grind down to 1mm but ya might wanna measure.

Reactions: Like 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 8, 2017)

gman2431 said:


> Find a local place that sharpens carbide and have them dimension your wing cutter. There should be enough carbide to grind down to 1mm but ya might wanna measure.


I had thought about touching it on the green wheel myself, having a professional do it is a better idea. Grizzly sells slotting saws that go down to 1/32 and arbors that are not too pricey, I don't know if they will take a guide bushing or not.


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## gman2431 (Jun 8, 2017)

sprucegum said:


> I had thought about touching it on the green wheel myself, having a professional do it is a better idea. Grizzly sells slotting saws that go down to 1/32 and arbors that are not too pricey, I don't know if they will take a guide bushing or not.



It honestly wouldnt take them much to do it and thw price shouldnt be very much. 

Havent seen the griz stuff.


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## woodtickgreg (Jun 8, 2017)

If you have a diamond grinding wheel you could custom grind the cutters a bit, only have to remove a little material from the sides of the carbide teeth.
Edit: oops I see you guys already shared that idea. I'd just grind em myself, it's not that big a deal really.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Blueglass (Jun 8, 2017)

sprucegum said:


> They don't give those away do they?


I'd love one to cut the frets on the guitars I'm slowly getting started on but I will be the $50 handsaw.


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## kweinert (Jun 9, 2017)

How about something like this: http://www.eagleamerica.com/prod_detail_list/s?keyword=P16-4037 







You might have to take off the the adjoining finger, maybe just be able to use the end one - just a thought.


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## sprucegum (Jun 9, 2017)

Blueglass said:


> I'd love one to cut the frets on the guitars I'm slowly getting started on but I will be the $50 handsaw.



I have made a couple dulcimers and strum sticks. I use a fine cut Japanese pull cut saw. The kerf was too wide so I stoned the sides of the teeth to remove the set. It was a old blade that needed replacing anyway and I only did 4 or 5 inches near the handle.

Reactions: Like 1


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## sprucegum (Jun 9, 2017)

kweinert said:


> How about something like this: http://www.eagleamerica.com/prod_detail_list/s?keyword=P16-4037
> 
> 
> 
> ...


don't think the tapered cut would work, I think regrinding the cutter I have is the best idea so far.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## kweinert (Jun 9, 2017)

sprucegum said:


> don't think the tapered cut would work, I think regrinding the cutter I have is the best idea so far.



Yeah, I was kind of torn between thinking that the taper could give you the exact fit when they hit the right depth or that it would not stick because of the taper. Just trying to think out of the basket (so to speak :)


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## Blueglass (Jun 10, 2017)

sprucegum said:


> I have made a couple dulcimers and strum sticks. I use a fine cut Japanese pull cut saw. The kerf was too wide so I stoned the sides of the teeth to remove the set. It was a old blade that needed replacing anyway and I only did 4 or 5 inches near the handle.


The pull saw I have is too thin. I will get the proper one.


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## tocws2002 (Jun 10, 2017)

I have a few of these circular saw blades you can have if you want to try them. The tooth is 1/16" wide and the blade itself is about 5/128". 

Could maybe hone the teeth to give you the width you need.

-jason


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## sprucegum (Jun 10, 2017)

tocws2002 said:


> I have a few of these circular saw blades you can have if you want to try them. The tooth is 1/16" wide and the blade itself is about 5/128".
> 
> Could maybe hone the teeth to give you the width you need.
> 
> ...




Thanks for the offer but I think router or shaper table is the only way to go and keep all of my pinkies intact.


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