# Elevated Wood Floor On Top Of Slab



## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

I've decided that I'm going to do away with all my overhead wiring and ducting, and build an elevated wood floor in the portion of my shop that is the dedicated woodworking shop. I will run the ducting and wiring underneath the floor. I have 12' walls so raising it is not problem for overhead space.

This will solve many of my problems but it'll present some challenges too. The main challenges I see are that I'll need to have my machinery dedicated to one spot forever because moving duct work, and to a lesser degree wiring, would be highly inconvenient. I thought about sealing the entire "box" as one large distribution hub so that I could move machinery and just tap in to the floor anywhere. My DC definitely has the CFMs for it (3700). That seems like the solution. I would install standardized 230v recessed outlets and of course plenty of 120 also. So moving machinery at any time shouldn't be a big deal.

Has anyone ever done this? Nothing ever works out like we plan so I want to do plenty of research before I do this. I plan to do it soon. Like no later than May.


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## Tclem (Mar 21, 2015)

My shop had an old water well in it. So when I moved here I had a pump out in it to feed the pond during the summer. It was right in the door way and I needed the space so I built an elevated floor across the front section of the shop


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## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

Tclem said:


> My shop had an old water well in it. So when I moved here I had a pump out in it to feed the pond during the summer. It was right in the door way and I needed the space so I built an elevated floor across the front section of the shop



Tony that was highly informative thanks for the tips.

Reactions: Funny 7


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## Schroedc (Mar 21, 2015)

I like the idea of the entire floor being a plenum for your dust collection system but without some serious flow modeling I'd worry about dead areas that chips/dust could collect in creating little pockets of kindling. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the thought of a sawdust fire has always worried me, Especially if there was wiring in the same space.

Reactions: Agree 3


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## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

Schroedc said:


> I like the idea of the entire floor being a plenum for your dust collection system but without some serious flow modeling I'd worry about dead areas that chips/dust could collect in creating little pockets of kindling. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but the thought of a sawdust fire has always worried me, Especially if there was wiring in the same space.



I've given some thought to this also but not nearly as much as I will need to. For the fire retardant issue I think that will be fairly easy to overcome. But the chip buildup I don't have a clue how to avoid that yet.


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## Mike1950 (Mar 21, 2015)

I think using the whole under floor area as a dust collection chute is a bad Idea. In time undoubtedly there will be a build up in the corners and?? I also am wondering what mice rats and snakes sound like as they go through unit. Just make lots of drops so you can move stuff around-or make the floor removable so you can change. A wood floor sounds nice though.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

I think you guys have already talked me out of using the floor as a plenum. Mike you're probably right - just install plenty of removable panels in the floor where I have teed off the duct and make sure each duct has plenty of them. Good idea.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

Mike1950 said:


> I also am wondering what mice rats and snakes sound like as they go through unit.



The most likely way they'll gain entry is through the machinery itself, so I'm wondering what they'll sound like going through an 18" steel impeller.

Reactions: Funny 3


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## Tclem (Mar 21, 2015)

Kevin said:


> Tony that was highly informative thanks for the tips.


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## barry richardson (Mar 21, 2015)

Subscribed! Building a wood shop is in my near future as well, sounds like a great concept...


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## NYWoodturner (Mar 21, 2015)

Ive had a similar thought process Kevin - but had not considered dust collection. I get tired of standing on a cold concrete floor in the winter. Even if I get the heat up to 60 in the shop my feet are frozen after standing on a frozen slab for hours. I have though about laying a wood floor with styrofoam panels underneath for insulation with channels for electrical distribution. It would give me tremendous flexibility with machine movement, be easier on the back, be warmer and save me money on heating the shop. My biggest obstacle is emptying the shop to do it


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## Mike1950 (Mar 21, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> Ive had a similar thought process Kevin - but had not considered dust collection. I get tired of standing on a cold concrete floor in the winter. Even if I get the heat up to 60 in the shop my feet are frozen after standing on a frozen slab for hours. I have though about laying a wood floor with styrofoam panels underneath for insulation with channels for electrical distribution. It would give me tremendous flexibility with machine movement, be easier on the back, be warmer and save me money on heating the shop. My biggest obstacle is emptying the shop to do it



Dig around the perimeter of foundation. Assuming that foundation is 6" out of ground all you have to dig is 10"- 3 -16" out of a 4 x8' sheet. 2" pink or blue extruded PS gives you R 10. You will not believe the difference -winter and summer.


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## Kevin (Mar 21, 2015)

NYWoodturner said:


> My biggest obstacle is emptying the shop to do it



I know that's right.


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## manbuckwal (Mar 22, 2015)

Kevin said:


> I've given some thought to this also but not nearly as much as I will need to. For the fire retardant issue I think that will be fairly easy to overcome. But the chip buildup I don't have a clue how to avoid that yet.



Maybe Tony can help you


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## MikeMD (Apr 9, 2015)

Kevin, I'm a little late to the party on this one, but how about this? If you run 6 or 8" pvc pipes the length of the shop between the joists, you could just add a sweeping elbow/tee about every 4 feet. That way, if you moved a machine, you could then just measure over to where you know the next elbow/tee is and cut out section of the floor. A little prior planning (marking the floor with a 'dot' directly over each elbow/tee) could make things really easy. Of course, don't forget to cap each elbow/tee! This certainly wouldn't be cheap, but it would solve the issue.

Reactions: Like 1


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## TurnTex (Apr 9, 2015)

Care to share what issues you are trying to solve with this big expense? Maybe someone has some ideas to help there without going to this extreme.


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