# Thread cutting woods?



## The PenSmith (May 26, 2015)

Greetings fellow turners.... I had the good fortune to acquire a custom made threading jig from a tool and die maker, now I need to cut threads for cremation urn lids. I will cut the male and female threads in use them to insert & recess them into the top body and the lids. This should allow me make up a number of matching pairs and put them away for future use.

I want to use hard woods that will hold a nice crisp edge on the threads. I could use some help in identifying those woods. From someone that I respect it was suggested that I acquire Boxwood but I don't know if that is correct or not.

Also Woodcraft (sorry, not my favorite store) has hard maple 'on sale' which to me is a euphemism for regular price for everyone else but I don't want to purchase it if there are better woods to use.

Reactions: Useful 1


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## JR Custom Calls (May 26, 2015)

I've threaded hard maple, desert ironwood, African black wood, and hedge with favorable results for my use.


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## Kevin (May 26, 2015)

Dense woods that are aren't also brittle.


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## NYWoodturner (May 26, 2015)

Jim - I have had mixed results. For me its a crap shoot, but my guess - and it is only that - its there is some value in the MC. I have used Castelo Boxwood and always had success. Its the only one that I have never messed up. I have had excellent results with American Holly - and I have had colossal failures where it was too dry. (I was also using 20 TPI) I have had both success and failure in ebony and cocobolo and ABW. Macassar ebony does pretty well too. I think the differences were the MC. I know your gut reaction is to say that with any NC at all there will be movement in drying and therefore will render the threads useless... This my tendency to lean towards the dryer pieces. I have been told that turning them in the low teens and then freezing them while screwed together is a viable option (Never tried it) and that just extreme slow drying is an option. 

None of that really helps but to give you what I have learned or screwed up for you to build on


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## JR Custom Calls (May 26, 2015)

After actually reading your post, I'm going to advise you to disregard my first post. Or don't... Just don't hate me if it doesn't work for ya. I have cut female threads on those woods for screwing make metal threads in to.


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## Schroedc (May 26, 2015)

From reading your post it looks like you are going to cut threads into a ring and a plug and then attach those to your finished urn?

I've cut 1x8 threads in Hard maple and Osage with no issues. I thread a number of things I do with 3/8x16 threads but not much finer than that or I have issues with the threads wearing out. Do you know what the TPI for the threads you are cutting is? If it's 8 or less per inch I'd think any hard, tight grained wood should work for you fairly well. Also, since it's an urn I wouldn't think the top will be getting screwed on and off a ton either....

Reactions: Agree 1


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## DKMD (May 26, 2015)

In addition to what's already been suggested, I've had luck with pear. Ebony was a bit too brittle. I've used yellow box burl with some luck as well. @TimR had some wood a while back that worked great, but I can't remember what it was... Photina, maybe? Also, lignum vitae takes threads like a dream.

You'll have more flexibility with wood species using a mechanized thread cutter as opposed to hand chasing.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## TimR (May 26, 2015)

Jim, here's an alternative to boxwood to consider, red tip photinia. Several WBrs have received this material, but I think @DKMD is only one who tried cutting threads and he had favorable results. I decided to try a sample myself using hand thread chasers, which are typically more difficult to get good results with. I'd say it threads as good as African Blackwood. If interested, would need to know sizes you need.
I did two position pics of this, and only place it wasn't clean was near check lines in these scraps. Didn't use any wax or mineral oil either to help the cut.

Reactions: Like 6


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## barry richardson (May 26, 2015)

I have never cut threads, but in detailed turning, the woods that hold detail best and resist chipping in my experience are hard maple, Bradford pear and African sumac....


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## The PenSmith (May 26, 2015)

TimR said:


> Jim, here's an alternative to boxwood to consider, red tip photinia. Several WBrs have received this material, but I think @DKMD is only one who tried cutting threads and he had favorable results. I decided to try a sample myself using hand thread chasers, which are typically more difficult to get good results with. I'd say it threads as good as African Blackwood. If interested, would need to know sizes you need.
> I did two position pics of this, and only place it wasn't clean was near check lines in these scraps. Didn't use any wax or mineral oil either to help the cut.
> View attachment 79330
> View attachment 79331




That is some really nice threading, crisp and clean with no tear out what so ever, that is exactly what I want to accomplish. I did a google search on the red tip photinia but no joy at all finding any for sale.


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## Mike1950 (May 26, 2015)

Had a couple people use persimmon and liked it. Box wood would probably be great but hard to find and spendy.


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## TimR (May 26, 2015)

I've not seen it offered anywhere since I harvested some a year or so ago. One of the local woodturners who does rose engine work told me to get as much as I can where a tree was taken down locally, because of its ability to hold details. I have up to 2" sq that has been kiln dried, and a few 1" thick about 4" x 6" but aren't fully dry. 
I think if you post up sizes of what you need, and reference some of the woods suggested, you'll get a better idea of what folks may have. Most of the really prime woods also can be tricky to fully dry without cracking, so larger sizes will be more difficult to get that are check free.


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## The PenSmith (May 26, 2015)

Thanks guys, with all the responses I have a good variety of woods to select from. I also have some exotic's around the shop including Purple Heart and a few unknowns that I can try. The jig that my machinist friend made is a serious example of precision, the adjustments are 1,000th's and super easy to use. Once I get some acceptable threads I will post them back in this thread.

Reactions: Like 1


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## The Penguin (Jun 4, 2015)

add

lignum vitae
purple heart

to your list. I've not done any threading, but have paid very close attention to several friends that do, and they like those.

also, the plant that I know as "red tip photinia" is a landscape shrub - I suppose it could get large enough for what you want, but it will be hard to find. I'm thinking most traditional cremation urns will have an opening about 2"-2.5" diameter.

another item that several of my club members use for exactly what you are - is Corian. You can make up numerous sets of rings, twist them together and set them aside - and you won't have to worry about shrinkage/warpage of wooden threads. Corian takes threads nicely - and you can find it in colors that are complementary to the wood you will be using.

Reactions: Like 1


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## The PenSmith (Jun 5, 2015)

Thanks for the ideas, I have a lot of Purple Heart and as anyone who has turned it knows, it is hard!! I had forgotten about Corian, thanks for the reminder. Once I get a few sets make I will post some picture of the results.


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## TimR (Jun 5, 2015)

The Penguin said:


> also, the plant that I know as "red tip photinia" is a landscape shrub - I suppose it could get large enough for what you want, but it will be hard to find. I'm thinking most traditional cremation urns will have an opening about 2"-2.5" diameter.


http://woodbarter.com/threads/red-tip-photinia-large-log-blank.20247/
Shawn, just to show that it can get quite large and various pieces of it have been snatched up by WBr's.


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## The PenSmith (Jun 20, 2015)

Thanks guys for all the input, I was able to get my first clean set of threads from either Boxwood or Persimmon, I ordered both but forgot to mark them. Here is the finished urn made from Norfolk Island Pine. I did realize afterward that I put to many threads on the male half, it takes a lot of revolutions to remove it, of course it will only be used once. I have made up a few more sets while I had the jig on the lathe.

Not counting the finial the vessel is almost 7" tall and 6.5" wide, I love working with the NIP, it such a neat wood.

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 3


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## The PenSmith (Jun 20, 2015)

Here is an image of the threading jig that my tool and die maker made for me. He set it up in 1,000 degree increments and the accuracy is incredible. About the only issue I have is getting it getting it square to the headstock. My friend has made several suggestions but I need to do some more testing to find what works best. This one sits in the banjo, had it been made to sit on the bed ways it would be very easy to square up but more costly to make.

At this point I am using a furniture scraper as my square, one end against the face of the chuck and the other on the head stock just above the threads.

Any suggestions?

Reactions: Way Cool 2


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## duncsuss (Jun 20, 2015)

Sorry, I can't think of any jig you might make to do this (well, I've thought of several, but since I can see the fatal flaws in all of them, there's no point me suggesting them!)

This threading jig is way cool, btw. If your toolmaker friend wants to make another I'm interested


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## DKMD (Jun 21, 2015)

Any chance the machinist friend can construct something that either screws onto or slips into your headstock spindle and also references the jig? Seems like that would be an easy way to get things squared up.

Cool urn!


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## The PenSmith (Jun 21, 2015)

DKMD said:


> Any chance the machinist friend can construct something that either screws onto or slips into your headstock spindle and also references the jig? Seems like that would be an easy way to get things squared up.
> 
> Cool urn!



That has merit! I will see if I can get him thinking about something along those lines! Thanks


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