# Question Of The Week, with Poll... (2015 Week 17)



## ripjack13 (Apr 19, 2015)

Howdy,
This is a weekly series of questions topic for everyone to join in on the discussion. Some of the later questions may have a poll, and some will not. 
_Don't be shy now, go ahead and post an answer...._
*
@TimR *had brought up this question in his topic, Casting Antwood*,* so I thought it would make a good QotW. 
http://woodbarter.com/threads/casting-antwood.21016/
So this week's QotW is geared towards the members that Stabilize and cast wood. * 


What do you do first? Do you stabilize the blank/block or cast it? 
And what is your reasoning behind doing so?





**Rules***
There is no minimum post requirement.


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## Karl_99 (Apr 19, 2015)

I stabilize blanks first. I haven't started casting, yet.


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## TimR (Apr 19, 2015)

So, the couple times I experimented with doing this, I cast first, and stabilized next, but not sure it matters. I was concerned that some stabilization wouldn't get deep inside the block (about a 2" square), but I also knew the configuration of the voids and figured there would be a path for the stabilizing resin to soak in. I also had concerns that the cast resin wouldn't like being cooked at 200F for an hour, but I don't think it affected anything in the end. There may be an advantage to how long the resin cures before cooking it...heck, it may help it cure, but not sure. 
I did have to add a 'trimming' step after casting to get off the exterior stuff that would be a barrier to stabilizing. 
I think next time I try this, I will stabilize first, but without wrapping the piece in aluminum foil which would tend to leave messy stabilizing resin areas where I want to cast. 
Ok...I'm done. 
Thanks for posting the question Marc, looking forward to the responses from those who do more than a little of this.

Reactions: Like 1


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## manbuckwal (Apr 19, 2015)

I haven't cast any blanks but have done some stabilizing. Seems to me ( remember i have no experince casting) that if casting is done first, it would be easier to clean up edges from casting than try and clean up all the voids and holes from stabilizing ??????


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## Tclem (Apr 19, 2015)

I do it like this and I do it like that. I do it to the east and I do it to the west

Reactions: Funny 1


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## Schroedc (Apr 19, 2015)

I haven't cast yet but I'd probably cast first since the failure point for the casting resin should be higher than the 200 degrees required to set the stabilizing resin plus not having to clean up after stabilizing before I'd cast. I'll have to try it both ways once I start casting later this summer.

Reactions: Like 2


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## NYWoodturner (Apr 19, 2015)

I don't cast much anymore, but when I did I stabilized then cast. The reason - The stabilizing treats the wood and hardens it. The casting fills the voids. If I cast first I felt it would inhibit the quality of the stabilization by preventing the absorption of the resin in parts of the wood. In addition I was always concerned that the casting resin might deteriorate somewhat while soaking in the stabilizing resin if I were to cast first. I only did a few pieces where I did both so by no means am I an authority on the topic.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Apr 19, 2015)

Well we're Hilton Honors members because we always stay at Hampton Inns so I probably did it wrong when I cast. I don't enjoy casting so I only did it a few times. If I do it again I'll see if HIE will honor my Hampton points so I can get my head straight first.

Reactions: Great Post 1 | Funny 2


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## Fsyxxx (Apr 19, 2015)

I stabilize then cast. One because that's how Curtis said to do it and he showed me how to do all this stuff. Two, the resin doesn't move sometimes wood does. If it's stabilized I don't have to worry about movement in things I'm casting. Since normally if I'm going through all the effort to do that in often working with some crazy woods that have issues. Once the cactus juice is in them it seems they are closer to the resin in make up. Leave the foil wrapper off if your going to cast and it makes for little or no cleanup. Make sure to put some foil under your blocks or it makes a giant mess damhikt.

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 19, 2015)

I have never done either, but I find this very interesting. Maybe someday, heck I'm still buying stuff to make pens and such. I think I probably stay at a budget in.

Reactions: Like 2


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## justallan (Apr 19, 2015)

I've only stabilized so far, but will look into it further and knowing me will try it the wrong way first when I do try both.

Reactions: Like 1


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## ripjack13 (Apr 19, 2015)

Tclem said:


> I do it like this and I do it like that. I do it to the east and I do it to the west


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## ripjack13 (Apr 19, 2015)

Fsyxxx said:


> I stabilize then cast. One because that's how Curtis said to do it and he showed me how to do all this stuff.



Oh...nice....

@TurnTex 

Curtis, could you share some info here on this?
Thanks!


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## TurnTex (Apr 19, 2015)

If the blank needs to be stabilized, I stabilize before casting. The main reason is the stabilizing resin, if the job is done properly, will seal the wood. This keeps the colored casting resin from bleeding into the wood and makes a nice, crisp delineation between the wood and resin. If you cast first, the pressure of casting can cause some of the resin to be forced into the wood and will show up as resin bleed. I can look at a blank that has been cast and stabilized and tell if the person did the casting first because the break between the two is usually blurred with casting resin color bleed.

Most folks that cast first do so as a short cut to reduce the clean up required from the stabilizing resin bleed out. This can be easily minimized by NOT wrapping the blanks in foil and by facing any areas of the stabilized piece to be cast down so that any bleed out drips away rather than pooling on the blank. Once I take a blank out of the oven all I usually do is hit the surface with a wire wheel to make sure the casting resin will bond well.

The other reason is temperature. I only use Alumilite and the deformation point of cured Alumilite Clear is 140° F. Of course the cure temp of most professional quality stabilizing resins is 200° F. Curing the stabilized blank after casting can cause the Alumilite to deform just slightly, weakening the bond between the wood and resin. 

Hope that helps some!

Reactions: Great Post 1 | Informative 3


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## ripjack13 (Apr 19, 2015)

Nicely done sir....thank you.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## David Hill (Apr 19, 2015)

Well the boat has to be stable first--then cast.
Oh wait, guess we're talking about wood stuff....

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2


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## Kevin (Apr 20, 2015)

woodtickgreg said:


> I have never done either, but I find this very interesting. Maybe someday, heck I'm still buying stuff to make pens and such. I think I probably stay at a budget in.



I don't think they leave the light on for ya. Better get a hold of Mr. Bodett before your next travel.

Reactions: Funny 2


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