# Norfolk Island Pine



## GeorgeS (Feb 9, 2016)

Starting a bowl and was wondering about an issue I have. So on this blank I have gotten the outside to a shape I like but the area around the branches isn't flush with the outer curve of the bowl. I'm wondering if I should go a little deeper and see if I can get rid of the problem or if it's just going to persist. Anyone with advice? I have never worked with this wood so I'm not sure if it's a typical problem of this wood or just an inclusion type issue that could be present in any wood with a branch like this.


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## barry richardson (Feb 9, 2016)

Looks like it's going to be cool, never worked with NIP before, I guess you could probe the punky area with a scribe and see how deep it goes. That area would be pretty easy to fill with crushed stone or resin or whatever...


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## TimR (Feb 9, 2016)

Personally...I'd fill that void with some sawdust and CA. Those voids can sometimes persist in a bit and no reason to sacrifice the bowl for it. Just one other suggestion, as with any CA use, I would apply shellac to surrounding area to prevent CA stain/bleed too much. Look forward to seeing it when done. Are you going to go pretty thin and use an oil soak to bring out it's translucence?


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## GeorgeS (Feb 9, 2016)

@barry richardson I was thinking about checking to see if it was soft, using some thin CA on it if it is and then fill with coffee and epoxy (or something dark). I don't think I want to do turquoise on this one. I haven't really done any filling of voids yet. Did a small hole with brass shavings on a scoop.


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## GeorgeS (Feb 9, 2016)

@TimR I appreciate the advice on the shellac! I was thinking around a 1/4" or so on thickness. It seems pretty dry to me, 11-15% depending on where I probe. I'm all ears on the oil soak. I'm not sure about that procedure.


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## TimR (Feb 9, 2016)

What I've used and heard others use also is to soak in a solution of 50/50 Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits. Soak a day or two, pull out, let drip dry, wet sand, do it again (I think), let dry for week, final sand and polish.

Reactions: Like 3 | Way Cool 2


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## GeorgeS (Feb 9, 2016)

Man that's beautiful! How thin is that? Thanks for the info on the oil method!!


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## TimR (Feb 9, 2016)

GeorgeS said:


> Man that's beautiful! How thin is that? Thanks for the info on the oil method!!


Thanks...I can't wait to try again after getting that effect. It's about 1/8" thick.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Tim Carter (Feb 9, 2016)

A couple of suggestions/ideas-take the blank off of the lathe and soak it in a large tub of water, using weights to completely immerse the blank in water, overnight to rehydrate it. You'll reduce the amount of tearout a lot. I like to fill the voids near the branches with stone-turquoise, malachite or lapis, rather than turning the blank down to get rid of the voids. The bottom of the bowl, both inside and outside, are going to be the most difficult areas to turn without tearout. Soaking the blank again and using very sharp tools and light cuts are the way to go. Once you get the bowl turned to 1/8" to 3/16" thick and put it aside to dry, don't be surprised if you get some cracks around the knots as it dries. If you see cracks around the knots as you're turning the bowl, use some thin CA to lock them in place. It's not unusual for a knot to pop out as you're turning and this will help keep that from happening. If you're going to fill the voids/cracks with stone, I suggest you wait until after you have soaked the bowl in the boiled linseed oil(BLO) mixture to avoid having unusual light spots near the voids/cracks where the CA got into the raw wood. You don't have to worry about this after using the BLO and letting it dry for a week or so.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## GeorgeS (Feb 11, 2016)

So I got in the zone last night or more specifically I guess I zoned out and forgot all about what you guys told me to do with the shellac before applying CA to fill the areas on the outside of the bowl. Sooooo I guess I'm going to apply CA to the entire outside of the bowl now like Cliff did with that big hollow form so its not splotchy, unless there is another way to fix it? I don't think it would be too terribly expensive as this isn't a massive bowl. I also decided against going too thin as I think I want it to be a bowl that can be used. I did a little testing last night also with good results on the interior of the bowl and if i scrape from the middle to the outside edge lightly with about three or four cuts, it smooths out the interior of the bowl pretty well but its easier for me to cut the other way. Once I get close to the bottom Ill switch back to finish up and smooth out the bottom. Its a little slow going as I only get about an hour or two every other night.

Reactions: Like 2


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## GeorgeS (Feb 14, 2016)

Couple progress pics.

Reactions: Like 8


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