# Segmented Gradient Bowl



## kweinert (Oct 5, 2015)

This is going to be a 14 layer bowl, about 10" in diameter by 7" tall.

If I were going to cut each ring separately there would be 156 segments plus the bottom, but I don't relish trying to glue up 1/8" thick rings so I'm going to glue the maple and walnut together into their ¾" equivalent thicknesses so there will be 96 segments plus the bottom.

I'll start with two walnut layers at ¾", then a 1/8" maple and 5/8" walnut. Each layer after that will increase the maple by 1/8" and reduce the walnut by the same amount, finishing up with two ¾" maple layers on top.

Here are the design/layout documents:



 

The corrections on the layout sheets are because of the change to create the maple/walnut combos prior to cutting them into segments.

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## kweinert (Oct 6, 2015)

Well, I'll have more pictures tonight. I had to look up how to turn on the WiFi in the camera so I can get them transferred to my tablet so I can post them and Tuesday is the day I have to actually go into the office.

Last night I did get all the strips cut for the layers. Most of them I had to cut two strips of each size due to the length of the product I got. For the 3/8 Walnut I had to cut 3 because of the amount of sapwood. It's not that I mind sapwood normally, but in this application where it's all about the contrast with the maple I won't be able to use it. I'll find something else for it though - maybe hairsticks :)

The other thing I discovered is that my idea of gluing the thinner strips together before cutting them into segments may not actually work. After gluing up the 5/8 walnut, 1/8 maple I see that I didn't have nearly enough clamps on it even though it looked pretty good. Just too many gaps.

Now I think I'm going to have to run those strips down the table saw to strip off the maple and cut new strips. Maybe it will work if I glue the thinner layers on to the thicker layer after cutting segments but prior to assembling them. Or maybe I should assemble the thicker segments into a ring, flatten it, and then glue the thinner segments on top of those. Not sure which would work out better.

I also think that the next time I want to do one of these I'll do more of my own processing. I don't have a lot of resawing capability on my bandsaw (it's about 30 years old or so) but if I cut to width before thickness then I should be OK. Most likely be a lot cheaper than what I ended up paying and I'll get to pick the wood. This maple isn't as light as I would have liked, to be honest.

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## kweinert (Oct 7, 2015)

Cut up strips





Each set is labeled with the layer number and the segment length.

The two bowl presses





Made from 2x4s, ½" plywood, and ¾-10 all thread. There's a nut captured between the top two 2x4s. At the moment I just I use a socket to change the pressure, but I can see a handle in my future shortly.

Me thinking I had enough clamps.

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## kweinert (Oct 8, 2015)

In order to accurately cut segments you need an accurate sled.



 

Here's a look at mine, and a close-up of the scale. You can also see the hold down for the piece getting cut. Just a screw driven through the end of a hickory dowel.



 


A layer cut and labeled. I label so I know what order they pieces came off the blank. This is important because it I were cutting for matching grain I'd know how the grain matched up. In this case I'm flipping after every cut so the grain won't match, but I'll be consistent with the direction of the grain.

It takes me about 3½ minutes to cut and label each layer.



 

156 segments later



 

I noticed when I was labeling the segments that frequently the blade hasn't stopped spinning before I started writing. I was very careful this time, but I knew it would eventually bite me so I made a guard for the blade.

Nothing fancy, here's before and after.



 



 

Now I create rings from the segments. First I glue up two ½ rings. This is so any adjustment can be made on the ends with the sander before the final ring creation.

The dowel pieces are there to better distribute the force. I use duct clamps to apply the pressure.



 

The top two rings have made it this far and they are the full thickness maple pieces.

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## tocws2002 (Oct 8, 2015)

I'm subscribing to this thread, keep the pics and info coming! 

-jason

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## kweinert (Oct 8, 2015)

Those two layers will now get sanded. Normally I'd wait for more to be ready - you'll see why in a second.

Here's the sander I use. So far it's done pretty good.





I cleaned it up before I used it. That's 150 grit on there.

As you'd do for any sanding, I mark the surface to be sure I've hit it all. I also mark the edge with the layer number and preferred direction. I've been known to hit up the wrong surface and this just makes it easier to recover from dumb mistakes.









Once one surface is flat then I'll put the table back on and make the ends even.





And that's why I tend to wait until more rings are done before I start sanding them The amount of time it takes to reconfigure the sander.

Those two rings have been sanded on one side and the ends evened up. They're now back in the clamps letting the glue dry, waiting for the next step.

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## kweinert (Oct 12, 2015)

Just a quick update. I now have 7 half rings glued up (all I can glue up before making whole rings and gluing the thinner pieces on), the base (ring 1) is constructed, made round, and glued to the block, and the glue block for the top is ready to go.

Now I'm at a place where it makes sense to go to the sander and through the setup changes I need. I'll flatten one side of the top two rings (13 and 14) to get them ready to start stacking, and flatten one side and the ends of all the half rings so the can be glued together. After that I'll be able to start gluing the thinner pieces on top of the thicker ones.

More pictures then - just didn't make sense to put up repetitive pictures - all rings at this point look pretty much the same except for thickness.

I have learned one interesting thing though. Since I'm using the duct clamps for holding the rings while the glue dries, I bought a variety of sizes: 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. I've been surprised that a 10" clamp wouldn't hold the ring (too big) and an 8" was too small, so I had to add a 4" to an 8" in order to get the size I needed.

I'm also thinking that I'm going to investigate Titebond II Extended. That little bit of extended open time might be useful in reducing the pressure I feel to get everything glued and clamped before it's too late. On the other hand, I've never had one come apart so it appears as if I'm doing something correctly :)

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## TimR (Oct 12, 2015)

Wonderful thread, excellent pics and descriptions.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Wilson's Woodworking (Oct 12, 2015)




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## kweinert (Oct 12, 2015)

Today I glued up the half rings into whole rings after flattening one side. Also flattened the two whole rings and got the top one attached to the glue block.

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## kweinert (Oct 14, 2015)

So now that I have a layer added, it's time to add the next one.

I mount the assembly on the lathe and true up the face with light cuts.





Then I scribble on the face with a pencil and sand it flat.





The sander is a piece of 80 grit paper glued to a 2x2. Just use a heat gun to release the adhesive when it's time to change it.





Use the tool rest to hold it steady.





Now it's off to the press to attach the next layer. I'm doing this to both the top and bottom and they're both in the press right now.

While those are drying I'm building the other layers. Here's an example of one of them:

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## Sprung (Oct 14, 2015)

Ken, this is cool - keep the pics coming!

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## kweinert (Oct 14, 2015)

For those of you paying attention - that's something I need to do.

So, at this point I have the #1 and #2 layers (walnut, bottom) glued on to the glue block and faceplate. I also have the #14 and #13 rings (maple, top) glued up to a separate glue block and faceplate. If I had been paying attention last night I would have glued together the #3 (maple, 1/8") and #4 (walnut, 5/8") rings together and the #12 (walnut, 1/8") and #11 (maple, 5/8") rings together so I could continue to parallel my two sides and minimize the wait time.

By now you're guessing that this didn't happen or I wouldn't be posting this in this way :)

I got it 1/2 right - I got the #3 and #4 glued up but for some reason I also did #5 and #6. I only have enough clamps to do two sets at a time. So now I have to do the #12 and #11 and wait for them to dry before I can continue that half of the bowl.


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## ripjack13 (Oct 14, 2015)

This is awesome......nice job so far!


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## kweinert (Oct 14, 2015)

I find that I really do need the sanding step. The face is smooth without it, but it's not flat. Inevitably there is a slight slant from the inside to outside, with the inside being just a tad bit more recessed.

Had some family stuff to do tonight so after work I was only able to get the 3/4 layers in the press under the assembly and the 11/12 layers glued together.

I think on the next one I'm going to try gluing all the layers separately, with the thinner ones being glued to some sort of cardstock using the rubbing technique. Then either sand our turn that of when gluing it up.

Oh, and I'll try much harder to remember to keep track of the time I'm spending.


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## kweinert (Oct 17, 2015)

Nothing picture worthy yet, just progress being made. All of the dual color rings are now glued up and all but two of them have been assembled into their respective sides.

Going out in a couple of minutes (when the coffee finishes brewing) to get the last two glued on.

Then it'll be time for more pictures of the next steps.


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## kweinert (Oct 18, 2015)

At this point all the rings are glued to their respective bases and the faces have been flattened. Now I mount each half on the lathe and turn the outside.

What makes this easier is the 1x8 live center for the tailstock.



 

With both halves mounted they get put on the lathe and pushed together. It's pressure alone that keeps the together at this point in time.



 



 

After everything is aligned I put a mark on the glue block on each side. From here the steps are to shape the outside, separate the two halves and shape the interiors, glue the top and bottom back together. At that point the marks on the glue blocks are important.

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## kweinert (Oct 19, 2015)

No progress yesterday. You see, I have half an oversized detached two car garage. It's the half closest to the house. 

My wife walks through there every day to get to her car (my truck is parked outside.)

My "collections" finally got to be too much for her. To be honest, there is some justification for that point of view. So we cleaned and organized. 

I recently built some shelves that sit behind me when I'm turning. I had not appreciated the amount of chips that would end up on said shelves. Two clear shower curtains, hangers, and curtain rods later the chips will now collect at the bottom of the shelves instead of on them. One piece of white pegboard (cut in half) and there are now two more places (one on each end of the shelves) to store tools. I have convinced her that it's not quite time to draw outlines to show where the tools go because I need to figure out where that is.

Lots of dust and shavings gone. Things put on shelves.

Hardly looks like the same place anymore :)

The good news? She's much happier, therefore I'm much happier. And it is nice to be able to know where things are when you need them. I just get too busy doing things to get around to organizing even when I know it should be done.

Might be tomorrow night before I can get back to shaping the bowl, but I'll have updates here when I do.

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## kweinert (Oct 22, 2015)

Well, starting to near the end.

The outside has been turned to near it's final shape.



 

Then the inside of the top has been shaped.



 

There's still some work to be done near the top but that will come after separation from the glue block.

That comes of the lathe and the bottom is mounted. Here are before and after pictures of the inside getting shaped.



 



 

Now the top and bottom are glued together. And squeeze out on the outside is quoted off with a wet paper towel and it's left to dry.

A final shaping and finishing of the outside is next. Then cutting the bottom free of the glue block.

I'm not entirely pleased with this one, but it's because of the materials. The maple for the thinner layers is to dark and there's too much variation in the color of the walnut.

Next time I'll work out how to do the resawing so I have more control over the material I use.

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## Sprung (Oct 22, 2015)

kweinert said:


> I'm not entirely pleased with this one



Ken, when you're done, you can send it to me and I'll put it in a shelf here so you don't have to look at it! ;)

Great work, Ken! Thanks for taking us along on this one - looking forward to seeing it finished up.

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## gman2431 (Oct 23, 2015)

This was an awesome read! 

Great job on the piece and also taking us along!

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## HomeBody (Oct 25, 2015)

Thanks for the write up. Now I know how those segmented bowls are made. Lots of work! The results are worth it though. Gary

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## kweinert (Oct 26, 2015)

The final installment.

Here are a couple of pics of the finished bowl.



 



 

A shinier finish than I've used in a long time. I've been using a beeswax/mineral oil combo which is kind of like a paste wax but a bit more like petroleum jelly in consistency.

My wife keeps telling me that most folks prefer shiny. So I started using a BLO/gloss varnish/mineral spirits mix.

For this bowl I went a step further and added wax to the mix. Mixed 6 oz Carnuaba wax, 2 oz beeswax (by weight), 8 oz of the above mixture (by volume). Didn't turn out quite like I wanted as it's a hard chunk, not a paste. I'll try again next time with a bit more of the liquid in the mix.

Still, it goes on pretty good, makes a nice shine, adds a little protection.

One of the reasons I don't particularly care for this finish is that I think it stinks. I've been surprised at how many people sniff it and say they like the smell.

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