# chain sharpening



## Graybeard (Mar 24, 2012)

Anyone use the Harbor Freight electric chain saw sharpener? Certainly much cheaper than the Oregon ones.

Graybeard


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## Kevin (Mar 24, 2012)

I never had a HF grinder so I can't say. I hand file my chains and have become both fast and accurate. Hand filing is so underrated because it sounds too hard and slow, but it isn't. 

When I used to read the claims of loggers _"I can file my chain by hand before you can take yours off and grind it and reinstall it, even if you're already at your shop."_ I never believed them. Well take my word it's true, and the learning curve isn't as long as you think. 

On top of that, the hand filing never heats the cutter like grinding does. Grinding softens the steel so it doesn't hold an edge as long as a hand filed chain. 

Now if I bury my blade into a gravel pit then yes I will mount it on my grinder and dress it, then hand file it the next time it needs sharpening, which won't be long after it's been ground. 




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## Dane Fuller (Mar 24, 2012)

Yes, I have one. For a casual user, they're not bad. I don't think it would stand up to heavy use though.


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 24, 2012)

I agree with what Kevin said, I will go up against a machine ground chain and out cut it any day. With a chain grinder you lightly touch the tooth several times so as not to over heat it and ruin the temper. I will put my chains on the grinder after 4 or 5 hand files just to even up the teeth and check the rakers and maybe lower them a tick. Hand filing is easy once you do it a couple of times and you can't screw up as quickly as you can with a grinder. I think my milling chains have 137 ish teeth and i can still hand file them quicker than with a grinder. each tooth only takes a few strokes with the file. you do all one side and then turn the saw around and do the other side. I like to mark a tooth with a sharpie so I know where I started and when I'm done with one side. The first time you do one maybe clamp the bar in a vise so the chain can be moved by hand, I push on the backside of the tooth with the file so I don't cut myself, if I just bump up against my chain I'm bleeding. Clamping the bar in a vise will make it easier for you till you get the feel for it.


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## Kevin (Mar 25, 2012)

While I prefer hand sharpening I realize most will not do it. If that's the case and if I ever do use something beside my Northern Tool grinder ( a decent grinder for the money) then I will probably get something like this. 

This one is cool looking but too expensive, and takes a long time to set up. But it does look like it would be accurate. 

There's dozens and dozens of machines both bench, wall, and bar mountable. Keep in mind most of them will not grind the rakers and this is essential once your cutters have been ground or filed enough that they are dropping closer to the height of the rakers. As the difference decreases, so does the "bite" that the cutters can take. 

This was the thinking behind "safety chain". Safety chains is slow, and also does not allow for plunge cuts. plunge cuts are an essential weapon in a loggers arsenal when dropping some trees, so avoid safety chain IMNSHO. :stop:



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## Graybeard (Mar 27, 2012)

I've only used the HF sharpener once, dressing up chains that had gotten nicked one way or another. I use a file most frequently, dressing when I add gas and oil.

Regarding the HF sharpener I find the chain holder to be pretty difficult to register the chain in the proper spot. The unit is mostly plastic so I guess you can't expect that much. I can see where a more expensive one would hold the chain and settings much better.

Anyone have experience with electric chain sharpeners?

Graybeard


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## Kevin (Mar 27, 2012)

Graybeard said:


> ...
> 
> Anyone have experience with electric chain sharpeners? ...






Kevin said:


> ....if I ever do use something beside my Northern Tool grinder ( a decent grinder for the money) ...



I have the $39 Northern Tool grinder but *I don't suggest it unless you already hand file* - which you do. I don't recommend it to someone who hase never hand-filed because it has a very shoddy alignment system and unless you've hand-filed and have a knack for free-handing the proper angles, the low-end grinder like I have is no good. But it works fine for me. 

For someone who isn't adept at hand-filing and needs things to be more automatic i.e. easier to set the proper angles then the higher-end NT is a pretty good knock-off of the popular $200 Oregon grinder (linked below). That NT grinder gets consistently good reviews. I don't have time to find it but arboristsite has an excellent thread on how to make soime minor tweaks to this grinder to get it to perform on par with the Oregon model that it's modeled after. 

They run that grinder on sale for $99 frequently so if you're getting by with a file right now maybe you can wait. Otherwise it is $130 - so now the quandary . . do you spend another $70 and get the Oregon? IMO if you can you do.


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## Bluestingray (Apr 8, 2012)

Chains cost me $28 at lowes for a 455 Husqvarna. The tools for sharpening mentioned are awesome! Maybe its just the circumstances around tree recovery in different areas of the country but I use small round sharpening stones on the end of a rotary cutter tool with like 30k rpms. i get about 3 sharpenings with chain on the saw, no removing. Chain stretches beyond saw limit so thats when I spend another $28 for new chain. A chain shrinker would be equally as valuable as a sharpener but that idea is just a dream.:morning1:


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 8, 2012)

Bluestingray said:


> Chain stretches beyond saw limit so thats when I spend another $28 for new chain. A chain shrinker would be equally as valuable as a sharpener but that idea is just a dream.:morning1:


If you run out of adjustment due to normal chain stretch and wear your chain may be too long to start with, try a chain one link shorter to start with. chains can be shortened by a power equipment or saw shop. They will have a chain breaker and rivit spinner to instal the new connecting link. Also check to see that your oiler is working properly, the oil tank and gas tank should run out at the same time. My mill has a very long chain and it will stretch and wear even with a double oiler, I then shorten the chain one link after I run out of adjustment, But I own a rivet spinner and chain breaker and don't have to rely on someone else to do the work for me, more convenient. I wouldn't think that you should run out of adjustment with a 20" bar, I never have on my husky365 or echo 4600 saws with 20" bars.


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## brown down (Apr 8, 2012)

I am fortunate enough to have a close friend with around 30-40 20 inch bar chains that he can't use he has an 18 . i get 5-6 at a clip, but i also sharpen mine in the field with a file. have a clamp setup on my tailgate to lock the bar and use my lock on my saw so the chain doesn't move. once i get to the point they need re- honed i give them back to him grab another 5-6 and he has a machine i will ask him what he uses. you have to be careful with those machines, they will destroy a blade in a matter of seconds.


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## Daniel (Apr 21, 2012)

I use a bar-mounted file jig in the shop for a nice, even, primo edge and to make sure the rakes and so forth are all at proper height... and carry round files with me when I cut.

Use the bar-mount before heading out (or when I come home), and file as needed in the field.


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