# American chestnut question....



## Bill Ragosta (Aug 29, 2016)

I just had to harvest a large American chestnut from my property. It was a beauty, but it had developed the blight and was all but dead. I had my sawmill operator take the butt section and cut 2.5-3" discs out of it to be used for coffee tables, end tables or what not, but I have several questions about the process now. First of all, he didn't think kiln drying was a good idea because it was so thick, but he also suggested that it may split when I air dry it. So, what am I do do? I mean, if it splits, it splits and it may actually give it some character, but I'd prefer to keep it more natural. 

Secondly, after it's appropriately dried, I'm guessing that all of the bark will fall off (some already has). Is there any way to keep the bark attached, or should I just peel it off now to allow the drying process to work a bit faster? 

Lastly, assuming I find someone with a big belt sander or something to run these through, how would you seal and finish them? Thanks in advance for any thoughts about this.....


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## DKMD (Aug 29, 2016)

I should start by saying that I've never dried American chestnut. That said, I don't know if any good way to keep the bark on something like a table. For natural edge bowls, we use thin CA glue, but I don't know that I would expect it to hold up to use. Maybe thinned epoxy or wood hardener?

I would seal the end grain on both sides with something like anchorseal or wax with anchorseal being preferred. That should minimize checking and cracking, but I wouldn't expect it to be fool proof unless chestnut has very favorable drying characteristics.

I'm interested to see what the others say...


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## Bill Ragosta (Aug 29, 2016)

I appreciate it DKMD. I've never done much of this stuff and have never used Anchor Seal. I ordered a quart today because I have two cherry boards that I want to seal to allow to dry for muzzleloader stock blanks, but I'd presume a large surface area like this will use quite a bit. How thick is Anchor Seal and how is it typically applied?


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## DKMD (Aug 29, 2016)

It's about the consistency of latex paint, and I put it on with a brush. I generally seal the endgrain, and if I'm expecting trouble with checking or cracking, I'll often use two coats.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## Bill Ragosta (Aug 29, 2016)

Thanks Doc.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Kevin (Aug 29, 2016)

Bill Ragosta said:


> I just had to harvest a large American chestnut from my property. It was a beauty, but it had developed the blight and was all but dead. I had my sawmill operator take the butt section and cut 2.5-3" discs out of it to be used for coffee tables, end tables or what not, but I have several questions about the process now. First of all, he didn't think kiln drying was a good idea because it was so thick, but he also suggested that it may split when I air dry it. So, what am I do do? I mean, if it splits, it splits and it may actually give it some character, but I'd prefer to keep it more natural.
> 
> Secondly, after it's appropriately dried, I'm guessing that all of the bark will fall off (some already has). Is there any way to keep the bark attached, or should I just peel it off now to allow the drying process to work a bit faster?
> 
> ...



I don't have experience with chestnut, but once the bark is falling off the species doesn't matter. If it's falling off there's no saving it because that means the cambium layer has broken down. For cookies yes AS2 is the best choice IMO. I have slapped thousands of gallons of AS and AS2 on wood in the past 12 years and I swear by it. But that's for logs and big wet blanks. For smalls, paraffin wax might be a better choice.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mr. Peet (Sep 1, 2016)

Chestnut dries very quickly, similar to white ash but as much as 15-20% quicker. You need to seal it ASAP to slow the process. Some folks put absorption pads under the pith to try keeping the process balanced. Often rounds dry quicker at the outer most points, then check. Using a moisture meter, you can try to get it in a balanced dry. Controlling the misture in your drying facility is helpful too. Set the room to match the average moisture of the cookie and slowly lower the room percentage following a kiln schedule for ash or sassafras.


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## Bill Ragosta (Sep 2, 2016)

Thanks Mr. Peet. I find that the rounds (and the boards), do have a different feel and the wood doesn't seem nearly as dense as the oak or cherry that I'm also drying now, so I'm not surprised that it would dry quite quickly.


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