# Spalted Maple question



## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 12, 2019)

Some of the spalted sugar maple I recently found has soft, punky sections. Can that be stabilized and used for turnings? The streaks from the fungus are amazing and I hate to throw it away if in can be stabilized.


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Feb 12, 2019)

Most spalted punky stuff can be saved by stabilizing. Post pics and I bet it will sell

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Agree 2


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## Sprung (Feb 12, 2019)

Yup, what Rodney said. That kind of stuff is perfect for stabilizing.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## ripjack13 (Feb 12, 2019)

@rocky1 or @Sprung could be of service ....possibly.
They both stabilized some coal for me.
But i would think most anything can be stabilized.


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## Sprung (Feb 12, 2019)

ripjack13 said:


> @rocky1 or @Sprung could be of service ....possibly.
> They both stabilized some coal for me.
> But i would think most anything can be stabilized.



If things work out - I'll even be loading up my chambers next week!

Reactions: Like 1


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## ripjack13 (Feb 12, 2019)

Darn it Matt. You beat me to it.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Feb 12, 2019)

There's probably enough for both of you. Only if you send a stabilized piece to each of us.

Reactions: Funny 2


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## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 12, 2019)

Thanks, I'll start saving this stuff rather than burning it.  Doesn't make a very good fire anyway.

Reactions: Like 1


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## rocky1 (Feb 12, 2019)

Thanks Marc, but at the moment, I'm stretched so thin I'm almost transparent most days. Needs to be about 4 of me, 2 of me working bees, one of me working in the shop, and the last one sleeping full time for the other 3!

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 5


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## Sprung (Feb 12, 2019)

I've been using this mug, but don't think I've ever managed to take a picture of it completed with the insert glued in. But here's a picture during the finishing process of a coffee mug I turned from some very far gone Spalted Bigleaf Maple Burl. Stabilizing saved this piece (and all the rest of those two big chunks of burl) as without stabilizing, they really wouldn't have been good for anything. It sucked up a LOT of stabilizing resin, but it went from punky, you can crumble this with your hands easily, to rock solid.

Reactions: EyeCandy! 5 | Way Cool 1


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## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 13, 2019)

That mug is amazing. Now I'm convinced. Thanks for posting.

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1 | Agree 1


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## Sprung (Feb 13, 2019)

BTW, if you're cutting material specifically to be stabilized, cut a little oversized. When I'm doing pen blanks, I prefer to start with 7/8" square. Call blanks 1 5/8" square, or a touch over that. Length a little longer too. This will help with allowing the finished blank to be of the proper size - occasionally a piece will develop a little twist or bow during the process (it does involve heating to over 212F for drying prior to stabilizing and curing happens at 185F to 190F) and it allows it to still yield the proper size blank. Also gives a little bit of wiggle room to run it across the belt sander real quick to clean it up and make it look nice so you can see what you've got - and so, if you're selling it, potential buyers can see what you've got.

Reactions: Agree 1 | Informative 2 | Useful 1


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## FranklinWorkshops (Feb 13, 2019)

That's good information, Matt. I can easily do that. Appreciate the help.

Reactions: Like 1


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