# fillin in the gaps



## chippin-in (Mar 20, 2012)

When yall use epoxy to fill knots and checks, how do you get it smooth and even across the face so it is even with the wood. You cant sand it or will dull it. 

Ive noticed some people mix stuff with it. Is that the only option, to mix something with it then sand. Or do you scrape it even immediately after pouring it in.

I have some small knots I need to fill in and thought it would look good if it were clear and you could see into it a bit. I tested on a scrap piece and it filled the worm holes ok. But the larger areas were a problem.

Thanks for your help.

Robert


----------



## Mike1950 (Mar 20, 2012)

My drawer faces had some flaws-2 of them had quite large flaws. I fill, let it shrink, material is way too light- I make it darker fill it again-drys fast this time sand but it still shrinks mix again darker then sand. it is flush then and sorta multi colored left hand side bottom drawer is the worst looking patch. Most people cannot see it though. I think this is another thing that you probably will get quite a few answers-all of them right-find something that works.


----------



## West River WoodWorks (Mar 20, 2012)

Hi Robert,
I have no affiliations with this company or product...:no dice. more please:

Try looking at a product called Inlace. 
Its a two part mixture that I use to fill voids or inlays. You can purchase a clear kit, or add colors and textures.
It pours easy into inlays, and when mixed with a thickener can be applied to turnings.

Here is a link: http://inlaceonline.com/

I use a card scraper to rough off excess material and then sand to a fine finish. They also have buffing compounds to shine it up real nice or you could use some micromesh for the desired sheen.
Good luck to you.
Tom


----------



## chippin-in (Mar 21, 2012)

Thanks for all the input fellas. Tom I checked that site....cool stuff!! Aaaand there is a retailer not to far from the house. Im gonna swing by there in a day or so and pick their brains. 

Thanks
Robert


----------



## davidgiul (Mar 25, 2012)

Hi Robert,

If I have a lot of filling to do, I mix up some 2 part epoxy (West System) and mix fine sanding dust (same species of wood that I am repairing/filling) into the epoxy. I like the mix of epoxy and sanding dust to have a consistency of mayonnaise if it is too thin it will run. Fill the repair so that the epoxy mix is proud of the surface of your repair otherwise you will have a depression and you will have to refill the repair. I start sanding the repair next morning with 80 grit and then I work the grits up. If you try to sand the repair too soon you will gum up your sandpaper. With any wood fillers, you will not be able to perfectly match the surrounding wood but that should not matter if you are filling knots. The repair will look like a knot.

For smaller repairs (pin holes), I use CA and sanding dust. With the thin CA I place a small amount of dust in the repair and pour a few drops of CA on it . The thin CA will kick immediately so there is no need for an accelerant. For larger holes, I place a few drops of medium CA in the repair and rub sanding dust into the CA. I cover my finger with tape so the CA doesn't adhere to my finger plus the CA gets hot when it goes off. Keep in mind, the CA goes quick like in seconds so you have to move.

Hope this helps.

Dave


----------



## davidgiul (Mar 25, 2012)

rbaccus said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Robert,
> ...


Thanks for the tip


----------



## brown down (Apr 8, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> rbaccus said:
> 
> 
> > davidgiul said:
> ...


depending on how large the tear out is or the knot you are trying to fix, i have used thick ca glue and also mix in fine saw dust. it doesn't shrink and is hard as a rock. don't know if that will work for you.


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 6, 2012)

excellent advice folks, now I have my answer and I feel confident in using sawdust and resin and or CA.

I know CA is a quick acting clear glue, but whats a brand name for a starting point?


----------



## woodtickgreg (Sep 6, 2012)

woodsmith said:


> excellent advice folks, now I have my answer and I feel confident in using sawdust and resin and or CA.
> 
> I know CA is a quick acting clear glue, but whats a brand name for a starting point?


If you have a wood craft or a rockler or any other kind of wood working supply store nearby you can get larger bottles there and different thicknesses. The stuff aint cheap but it works wonders! Just din't touch it with your fingers


----------



## DKMD (Sep 6, 2012)

woodsmith said:


> excellent advice folks, now I have my answer and I feel confident in using sawdust and resin and or CA.
> 
> I know CA is a quick acting clear glue, but whats a brand name for a starting point?



I've been getting my glue from here… Better prices than I've found elsewhere, and free shipping on orders over $25.

http://woodenwonderstx.com/ZC_WoodenWonders/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=405501f8a7325af65f2c5985c8795c8b


----------



## davidgiul (Sep 7, 2012)

DKMD said:


> woodsmith said:
> 
> 
> > excellent advice folks, now I have my answer and I feel confident in using sawdust and resin and or CA.
> ...


This is my main source of CA too


----------



## Woodsman (Sep 7, 2012)

chippin-in said:


> When yall use epoxy to fill knots and checks, how do you get it smooth and even across the face so it is even with the wood. You cant sand it or will dull it.
> 
> Ive noticed some people mix stuff with it. Is that the only option, to mix something with it then sand. Or do you scrape it even immediately after pouring it in.
> 
> ...




If the epoxy you are filling with is a hard epoxy, sand like you normally would and then polish it up by sanding with a much finer grit. I've never had any problems with this approach.


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 8, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> DKMD said:
> 
> 
> > woodsmith said:
> ...



did some reading on the CA and the different viscosity, for the thinner one,s the curing time is very fast (15 seconds), to fast in my opinion, so do you guys use something in the 1500 area, and that is at 90 seconds? They all look like they will penetrate into what ever you are using to fill the void.


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 9, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> Hi Robert,
> 
> If I have a lot of filling to do, I mix up some 2 part epoxy (West System) and mix fine sanding dust (same species of wood that I am repairing/filling) into the epoxy. I like the mix of epoxy and sanding dust to have a consistency of mayonnaise if it is too thin it will run. Fill the repair so that the epoxy mix is proud of the surface of your repair otherwise you will have a depression and you will have to refill the repair. I start sanding the repair next morning with 80 grit and then I work the grits up. If you try to sand the repair too soon you will gum up your sandpaper. With any wood fillers, you will not be able to perfectly match the surrounding wood but that should not matter if you are filling knots. The repair will look like a knot.
> 
> ...



Hey Dave, looks like you have walked this path a few times, so I need your advice, which comes first, danish oil finish and then fill larger voids, or fill voids and then do the finish, my thoughts are to fill the voids first and then finish with choice of finishes. I'll be using a two part epoxy and mixing in a colored sand to create a faux turquoise, thought about a hint of crushed charcoal for black streaks.


----------



## davidgiul (Sep 9, 2012)

woodsmith said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Robert,
> ...


I usually fill the voids first and then finish, but if you are worried about the adhesive staining the surrounding wood, a light coat of lacquer seals the wood and is easily sanded off when you sand the filled void. Just keep the lacquer out the area to be filled. I like your idea of charcoal for black streaks. Easier to sand than obsidian (I got some from Shadetree awhile back) The white of the whale's tail is crushed sea shell that Suzy picks up at the beach, and the blue is crushed turqoise (sleeping beauty) The adhesive of choice is thin CA. The wood is curly Koa.
[attachment=10443]


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 9, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> woodsmith said:
> 
> 
> > davidgiul said:
> ...



what do you think about mixing this sand with the two part epoxy? once in the hole I hope to drizzle the charcoal in a fine line.


----------



## davidgiul (Sep 9, 2012)

woodsmith said:


> davidgiul said:
> 
> 
> > woodsmith said:
> ...


How does the epoxy sand mix finish? Is the sand mix difficult to sand? As far as drizzling some charcoal dust to create spider lines that may be a challenge. The charcoal fill will need some depth so that you won't sand the charcoal off. After you finish the faux turquoise, you might take a dremel with a fine bit and cut some lines into the turquoise. Fill the lines with charcoal and sand away. Probably can sand the charcoal with 120 grit for starters or maybe 180 grit.


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 10, 2012)

davidgiul said:


> woodsmith said:
> 
> 
> > davidgiul said:
> ...



It's all an unknown, my first time with epoxy, my mind is full of knowledge from all the excellent info and advice from all you master wood workers and from countless you tube videos and other web sources, now it's time to put knowledge into action. I have a days worth of sanding prior to attempting my first pour, but my plan is to do two pours, one a bit below the surface and another to cap the epoxy, I may imbed an arrow head as well.

I hope to achieve the mayonnaise consistency you suggested and I have a lot of hair line cracks in this dry ERC, if they will take a nice line of my mixture, then this is going to be one beautiful and unique table top.


----------



## davidgiul (Sep 10, 2012)

[/quote]

It's all an unknown, my first time with epoxy, my mind is full of knowledge from all the excellent info and advice from all you master wood workers and from countless you tube videos and other web sources, now it's time to put knowledge into action. I have a days worth of sanding prior to attempting my first pour, but my plan is to do two pours, one a bit below the surface and another to cap the epoxy, I may imbed an arrow head as well.

I hope to achieve the mayonnaise consistency you suggested and I have a lot of hair line cracks in this dry ERC, if they will take a nice line of my mixture, then this is going to be one beautiful and unique table top.
[/quote]
Look forward to the finish project with some pictures.


----------



## woodsmith (Sep 11, 2012)

It's all an unknown, my first time with epoxy, my mind is full of knowledge from all the excellent info and advice from all you master wood workers and from countless you tube videos and other web sources, now it's time to put knowledge into action. I have a days worth of sanding prior to attempting my first pour, but my plan is to do two pours, one a bit below the surface and another to cap the epoxy, I may imbed an arrow head as well.

I hope to achieve the mayonnaise consistency you suggested and I have a lot of hair line cracks in this dry ERC, if they will take a nice line of my mixture, then this is going to be one beautiful and unique table top.
[/quote]
Look forward to the finish project with some pictures.
[/quote]

I ordered a quart of system 3 epoxy and a pint of #2 hardener, I bought what I had thought would work, but after reading I have product for a another day.


----------

