# Who has what band mill?



## DavidDobbs

Starting to look for a entry band mill. Just asking what band mill others have.

Dave


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## Mizer

wood Mizer:no dice. more please:


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## JMC

Woodmizer LT30, got it at an auction for $8,700.00 with 152 hours on it. It's a great mill but can't wait to get a 40 with all the bells and whistles.


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## Dusty

DavidDobbs said:


> Starting to look for a entry band mill. Just asking what band mill others have.
> 
> Dave



I've got a Timberking 1220. It's a manual bandmill and I bought it because it came with a 29 1/2" throat opening, it was 34" between the head support posts and with one extra log deck section, I can saw a 20' log on it. The biggest log I've sawed was a 38" red oak, 16' long. That's a massive log to saw on a manual mill. I don't sell lumber, I sell the products I make with my lumber. By buying a manual mill, I got it for more than $15,000 less than the B2000 hydraulic mill. I've worked out how to transport, load and turn logs that I can't budge with a cant hook. I saw for 3 or 4 days every month or so... and carve gunstocks the rest of the time.

Hal

Reactions: Like 1


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## DavidDobbs

I have the 1220 on my short list.

The wood mizer lt15go

Going to go Monday or Tuesday to look at the
EZ Boardwalk

Unless I find a good used one there are a couple
used one near by



Dave







Dusty said:


> DavidDobbs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to look for a entry band mill. Just asking what band mill others have.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a Timberking 1220. It's a manual bandmill and I bought it because it came with a 29 1/2" throat opening, it was 34" between the head support posts and with one extra log deck section, I can saw a 20' log on it. The biggest log I've sawed was a 38" red oak, 16' long. That's a massive log to saw on a manual mill. I don't sell lumber, I sell the products I make with my lumber. By buying a manual mill, I got it for more than $15,000 less than the B2000 hydraulic mill. I've worked out how to transport, load and turn logs that I can't budge with a cant hook. I saw for 3 or 4 days every month or so... and carve gunstocks the rest of the time.
> 
> Hal
Click to expand...


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## gvwp

Woodmizer LT70 and HR120 resaw. The LT70 is great for production runs but the resaw is more accurate for resawing smaller pieces. Our LT70 is stationary and is never transported. Looking to upgrade to a larger electric mill. We will then be selling the LT70.


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## Dusty

David,

If you find a good price on a used manual bandmill, keep in mind, any of the mills on the market today will make lumber and looking at a stack of lumber you can't tell what sawmill it was cut on. You have to decide what you are going to do with your mill. Are you going to custom saw for other people? Sell your lumber green to build barns and out buildings? Sell FAS hardwood to custom woodworkers? Or use your lumber for your own use? The market you are targeting will determine the mill you need. If I was custom sawing or selling barn lumber for $0.65/bft, I'd work myself to death moving and turning logs. For that market, you'd be better off with a hydraulic mill. I started carving custom gunstocks and bought my mill for several reasons. The main one was to get the quality lumber I need and saw it so the grain runs straight down each board. The second reason I needed a sawmill is the farmhouse I use for my home and workshop. It was rented out for 30 years with no upkeep.... I had the bathroom and kitchen remodeled and a new roof put on before I ran out of money. The quote I got to replace the rotten poplar siding was over $25,000! Also the pine floors were so beat up and had so many cracks that sanding them down, just looked awful. This summer I'm sawing enough poplar into 6"X1" boards to make siding and install it. Next spring I'm going to cut enough white oak and quartersaw it to replace the flooring. A local molding company will kiln dry it for $0.20 and run it through a 4 sided molder for very little more. The owner of the company is very interested in trading some quartersawn white oak for the cost of running my order. 

By making my own siding and fixing my house, the mill will have paid for it's self on that one job. The house was built sometime near the turn of the century and the window frames were built by the carpenters, so I'm going to remove the windows and build new window frames around each window and reuse the original windows. They are so old the glass is wavy and there are air bubbles in the glass. I'd hate to scrap them. I can't wait to get the siding fixed and the floor replaced with quartersawn white oak. This house is remarkable. It has 10' ceilings on the bottom floor, a fireplace in every room, closets in most of the rooms, a built in china cabinet in the dining room, french doors between the living room and the formal dining room, and beautiful wood trim everywhere in the house. Each piece is a custom size and you can tell that everything was built by craftsmen. I think the old country Doctor that built this house would like to see the trees that were saplings when he built it being used to make it like new. 

Here's what it looked like when I started working on it. 

http://www.first285.com/farm/ 

It looks better in some places, and worse in others. I'm using two downstairs rooms for my woodworking shop. The top floor is used for drying my wood. I limit the weight in any one place. I've also got dry wood filling the garage and two outsde 16X12 buildings full of woodworking tools. 

A manual mill fit my needs. I looked for a used one and would have bought one if I could have found one near me when I had the cash... I bought a new one because I could get it at the time and if I waited the money would have been spent on something else... 

The definition of a sawmill is an expensive piece of equipment that's either broken or about to break. Used mills are what a new one will be in 6 months to a year... I've sawed 5 or 6 thousand bft since I've had mine and the gas tank had to be replaced. (Tmberking next day aired it to me) Also I bent one of the log stops. A long steel bar and a couple of tugs and it was straight again. I wouldn't sell mine if I sold it for every penny I paid for it. If I make enough to someday buy a hydraulic mill, I'll keep this one because I can add sections of log deck and saw long beams. One of the big things I'd like to someday build is a timber frame home on my property. The local regulations require graded and inspected lumber for a home, but not for a barn... I'm going to get a construction permit to build a barn. A very nice one, with pluming and electric already installed... Then in about a year when I'm finished with the interior I'll get another permit to renovate my barn... It just might make a nice house. 

Hal


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## Mike1950

Cool old house and nice lights. I bet those interior walls are not drywall-if they are original they would be good ol hardwall plaster. While you are replaceing siding you might want to insulate if it has not already been done. Good Idea with barn-we have the same codes here- I wonder how much the big lumber companies paid to get that in code book????


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## woodtickgreg

What I like about easy board walk is that it's the most bang for the buck new, made by a family not some big company, and I hear the owner ( Mr. zimmerman ) is a great person to deal with. I dream of the 40" model Just because most logs are never straight and have bumps and bulges and the extra space on the carriage head will give room for the iregularities. I like the torsion spring like a garage door to help raise the head also. A simple machine that is well thought out and easy to maintain with off the shelf parts. Dusty brings up some very good points to consider in his post, what a good read.


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## Dusty

Mike1950 said:


> Cool old house and nice lights. I bet those interior walls are not drywall-if they are original they would be good ol hardwall plaster. While you are replaceing siding you might want to insulate if it has not already been done. Good Idea with barn-we have the same codes here- I wonder how much the big lumber companies paid to get that in code book????



Mike,

The walls are lathe with plaster. And there is no insulation to speak of. The reason we haven't replaced the siding before now is the cost of adding insulation and new windows. I can afford the insulation now, but the windows are still out of range, so I'm going to rebuild them and put the original windows in new frames. It will give me a chance to replace the ropes to the counter weights so they will stay up again. 

Hal


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## Mike1950

I was a plastering contractor for 25 yrs and repaired many of the old houses. Sounds like you have a good plan. Beautiful house...........


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## DavidDobbs

thanks guys 

I would be looking to saw my own wood mostly.

Thinking of timber framing my shop.

An maybe selling a little /drying little /sawing a little for others.

An making some rustic furniture. Turning more bowls.

We live on Old Route 66 I am guessing the daily car count 10-12000.
That is why I am looking to build a new shop also here at the house.
To help sell the goods.

:thanx:
Dave


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## woodguy

Hello,

I run a Logmaster LM-4 fully hydraulic mill and an 18hp manual bandmill that I built. The homemade saw cuts up to 39" between the guides which really helps me when I am sawing crooked mesquite logs. Having hydraulics really made sawing easier for me. I do my milling alone and my manual mill required a lot of physical work. Also, 51hp diesel vs 18hp gas....


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## kfuknives

You guys suck with all your equipment! :dash2:


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## Mizer

kfuknives said:


> You guys suck with all your equipment! :dash2:



Someone has a case of sawmill envy.

I am as envious of your knives so I shouldn't talk.


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## DKMD

Joe Rebuild said:


> I have been eyeballing the Burg http://www.burgbandsawmills.com/ For the price seems like a no brainer if inexpensive is a top requirement. Old school guy here no email you have to call him. I spoke to him in detail about his mills and what I would want from the 42'' mill. He had all the right answers but I cannot find any information on any on the web good or bad about him or his mills.



If you look on the 'sawmill pictures' pages, there's a customer listed with a phone number... Might be worth a call.


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## DavidDobbs

Spent a couple hours with Ed at EZ Boardwalk on Monday.

Ed builds a very nice simple to run band mill.

Great guy to talk with.


Check out his web site an give him a call.

Dave


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## woodtickgreg

DavidDobbs said:


> Spent a couple hours with Ed at EZ Boardwalk on Monday.
> 
> Ed builds a very nice simple to run band mill.
> 
> Great guy to talk with.
> 
> 
> Check out his web site an give him a call.
> 
> Dave


I have spoken with him also, very down to earth. I believe his mills offer the most bang for the buck. jmo. The bed is heavy wall "c" channel not just angle iron, that's important when placing large logs on the bed, again jmo. I like the 40" model, and cutting head is at an angle to kinda pull the carriage along as it cuts, kinda self feeding. Definatly worth a look!


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## GaSawmiller

I'm new here and just stumbled on your post. I don't know if you have pulled the trigger on getting a sawmill yet but my father and I run a Woodmizer LT35. You cant beat Woodmizer's service and support. A great thing about the 35 is the hydraulics. If you are going to be sawing alone or with just one other person it will really help out. turning and positioning the log can be a real hassle without that option. Even if you have two people and cant hooks once you hit the 25 inch diameter you will need the hydraulics to flip that sucker! If you haven't decided yet and want to hear about the woodmizer let me know, Ill talk all day about it.
[attachment=19687]


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## Mandolin

I have a Hud-Son 228, set up permanent on a concrete slab. Homemade log deck, old country shed over the mill and I love it. I hear a lot of people say "Hud-Son saws look a little flimsy to me," They are anything but flimsy. What I really like about my mill is if it does tear up, which doesn't happen very often, you can find most anything you need to get it going again at the local hardware store My mill is all manual but the way I've got mine set up, I can run it all day by myself without to much strain.


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## brown down

i have been looking at this one for a starter... they are a small company and only make one saw, don't know if thats a good thing or a bad thing..


http://www.woodlandmills.ca/?gclid=CP2ZzKDS8rUCFS4aOgodli8Alw

still looking for a used one if i can find one, I am a patient person and will wait as long as i need! once the log pile gets to big, than i will make my decision!


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## Kevin

I looked it over and to me it looks like a lot of bang for the buck. Also the kind of sawmill you can buy parts for at your hardware store. I was gonna say take a look at T.A. Schmid like Darn has but I think he went out of business or retired. The one you linked looks good.


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## GaSawmiller

brown down said:


> i have been looking at this one for a starter... they are a small company and only make one saw, don't know if thats a good thing or a bad thing..
> 
> 
> http://www.woodlandmills.ca/?gclid=CP2ZzKDS8rUCFS4aOgodli8Alw
> 
> still looking for a used one if i can find one, I am a patient person and will wait as long as i need! once the log pile gets to big, than i will make my decision!



That looks like a fine mill for a hobbyist. The price is good compared to the Woodmizer LT10. If you would like woodmizer offers demos through their pro sawyer network. If you give them a call they can find the nearest sawyer to you and set up a demo. You will show up and they will was with you and show you all the features of the mill. We offer the same thing. You might not be looking to buy woodmizer but it could give you an idea of what features you are wanting in a mill.


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## Ralph Muhs

I have a home made bandsaw. I bought it for $3500. It came with three new blades and a cant hook. I then bought the 20 ft trailer it was delivered on for another thousand. I have used my manuel mill to saw enough lumber to frame a house I am building. I used the best white pine for 2X6 studs and rafters. Other lumber for sheathing. 2X8 for floor joists. I also built a large workshop, and have plans for another even better shop. I've more than got my money's worth on both the mill and trailer. With my mill, I can do a gooid job if I keep sharp blades and clean logs. But I wouldn't sell my lumber or do custom sawing because of time restraints, the work involved, and the quality of my lumber. With a blade getting dull. I have lower quality lumber, but nothing my planer wouldn't correct.
If you are interested, I can provide a phone number for the guy who built my mill.


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## brown down

Ralph Muhs said:


> I have a home made bandsaw. I bought it for $3500. It came with three new blades and a cant hook. I then bought the 20 ft trailer it was delivered on for another thousand. I have used my manuel mill to saw enough lumber to frame a house I am building. I used the best white pine for 2X6 studs and rafters. Other lumber for sheathing. 2X8 for floor joists. I also built a large workshop, and have plans for another even better shop. I've more than got my money's worth on both the mill and trailer. With my mill, I can do a gooid job if I keep sharp blades and clean logs. But I wouldn't sell my lumber or do custom sawing because of time restraints, the work involved, and the quality of my lumber. With a blade getting dull. I have lower quality lumber, but nothing my planer wouldn't correct.
> If you are interested, I can provide a phone number for the guy who built my mill.


hey ralph you have a picture i could take a gander at and see if its something i would like?
I may take money out of my annuity and just get what i want! i think it would be a good investment and not just sitting there making less than a percent!!!


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## Ralph Muhs

This is a pic of the mill I have.


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## woodtickgreg

Ralph Muhs said:


> This is a pic of the mill I have.


Uhm.......no pic.


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## Ralph Muhs

woodtickgreg said:


> Ralph Muhs said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pic of the mill I have.
> 
> 
> 
> Uhm.......no pic.
Click to expand...


EXPLETIVE !!!!!


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## lone wolf

I switched from a circular mill to a Wood-Mizer LT40HD28 and it took about 50 hours and 5000 board feet to get used to a bandmill but I am doing well with it and it is easier to use in my view, although I do miss the the circular mill at times I don't miss the noise and diesel fumes or fuel consumption of a 140 hp engine or the mountain of sawdust.


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## Kevin

I have two big circle mills also that I bought in '05 thinking I was going to cut ties for koppers and sell lumber locally by volume, but then I discovered a patch of FBE and decided volume was overrated. I love my band mill. I was planning to sell it at the end of this summer but the closer the summer gets to being over the harder it is thinking about parting with it.


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## SDB777

About as entry level as you can get....Woodmizer LT-10

Manual everything, but I did go for the upgraded motor(10HP instead of 7HP).





Scott (it'll do big wood too) B


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## Busy Beaver Lumber

Woodmizer LT-10 with 10HP motor here and love it. Actaully have become very good friends with the engineer at Woodmizer that led the LT-10 design team and he is a great individual.


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## phillip hamlin

I have an older baker 3638 which is all hydraulic and personally would not do without it now. I have used others without and it' a lot of work. when you get older you will know what i mean.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## justallan

I have a Hudson HFE 21. It's a great little bandmill, IF you actually use it for what it's intended for. We had a big fire a couple years ago and lost a bunch of trees. Well, me being me, I saw dollar signs and bought this thing. It's paid for itself a couple times, given me bunches of lumber for projects, introduced me to the whole art side of woodwork and has been a huge part of keeping me sober.
I'd say money well spent.
Allan

Reactions: Like 2 | +Karma 1


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