# questions about CSM's



## gridlockd (Mar 17, 2013)

Hi guys,

I recently bought a granberg small log CSM for my personal use. I have started out using it and have had a little success, but it seems to be more difficult than I was expecting. I am using a standard chain on my saw and wanted to know if switching to a rip chain is going to make a big difference. does it cut faster? cleaner? does it cut easier through the wood? any advice is appreciated.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 17, 2013)

I personally think a regular chain cuts faster. A ripping chain however produces a smoother cut. I think it depends on what type of sawing your doing. Joe is right there very well may be other factors at work other than your chain type.


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## gridlockd (Mar 18, 2013)

Joe Rebuild said:


> gridlockd said:
> 
> 
> > Hi guys,
> ...



I'm using a new husky 450. I know that 50cc is a bit underpowered for this kind of thing but I was hoping it would suffice considering I'm doing this for personal use and an occasional blank to trade or sell here. am I fooling myself with that idea?


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## Kevin (Mar 18, 2013)

Ripping chain is definitely slower, but it's designed to give a smoother cut. 50cc is too small unless you're milling very narrow wood. What length bar are you using and how wide is the wood, and what is the species? 

Also, unless your chain is sharpened by someone who knows how to sharpen chain (not all small engine shops will take the time to do it right) the chain doesn't have to necessarily be dull, if it's even just "not very sharp" you'll know it when you mill. Milling is much harder on saw, man, and chain than just crosscutting. And your rakers need to be filed lower than for crosscutting - that's very important.


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## jimmyjames (Mar 18, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Ripping chain is definitely slower, but it's designed to give a smoother cut. 50cc is too small unless you're milling very narrow wood. What length bar are you using and how wide is the wood, and what is the species?
> 
> Also, unless your chain is sharpened by someone who knows how to sharpen chain (not all small engine shops will take the time to do it right) the chain doesn't have to necessarily be dull, if it's even just "not very sharp" you'll know it when you mill. Milling is much harder on saw, man, and chain than just crosscutting. And your rakers need to be filed lower than for crosscutting - that's very important.



I agree, the 450 is pretty small for ripping like that, i have a 460 and.i wish i stepped it up to the 576. A local csm owner here files.his.rakers.completely off, ive never done it nor advise it but thats just what he does, but then again thats on a stihl 880 sporting an 72" bar.


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## jimmyjames (Mar 18, 2013)

Also depending on where you bought it most husky saws have a 30 day money back guarantee, for only a few bucks more step it up to a 460 or bigger


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## gridlockd (Mar 18, 2013)

Kevin said:


> Ripping chain is definitely slower, but it's designed to give a smoother cut. 50cc is too small unless you're milling very narrow wood. What length bar are you using and how wide is the wood, and what is the species?
> 
> Also, unless your chain is sharpened by someone who knows how to sharpen chain (not all small engine shops will take the time to do it right) the chain doesn't have to necessarily be dull, if it's even just "not very sharp" you'll know it when you mill. Milling is much harder on saw, man, and chain than just crosscutting. And your rakers need to be filed lower than for crosscutting - that's very important.



I'm using the 18" bar that came on the saw. I am not trying to cut anything over 12" wide, cutting mostly maple, cherry, some oak, hackberry etc. How low should the rakers be filed? thanks for all the info guys, i feel kinda dumb when it comes to this. 
I bought my chainsaw from baileys online about 3 months ago.


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## Kevin (Mar 18, 2013)

For my ripping chain I grind my rakers to .035" but with standard chain you'll probably bog the saw down even more because it is underpowered. .035" takes a big bite so you have to have some torque behind it to be able to take advantage of such an aggressive bite. I don't like to mill with crosscut chain because I have better things to do with my time than to spend that much more time planing and sanding. Milling with ripping chain is not so much more slower than standard crosscut chain, but the time it takes to smooth the wood that was ripped with crosscut chain compared to how long it takes with wood milled with good sharp ripping chain is a big difference. 

To each his own, a big saw and ripping chain is what I prefer. You can get by with crosscut and a small saw but you'll eventually tire of it and either stop milling or get a big saw. If you do, go 80cc or larger and 90cc is best. 70cc is still too little torque IMO.


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## woodtickgreg (Mar 18, 2013)

We have had some lengthy discussions here about chainsaw milling, chains etc. Look in the milling section and read through some of the threads. I'm sure you will find a lot of information.


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## gridlockd (Mar 18, 2013)

Thanks guys for all the advice. it seems I will probably need to investigate a larger chainsaw. so many toys, yet the days never seem to get more than 24 hrs in them....

might have to put this one off for a while. you answered all my questions though, not what i was hoping to hear, but answered just the same!

thanks!


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## DavidDobbs (Mar 19, 2013)

gridlockd said:


> Thanks guys for all the advice. it seems I will probably need to investigate a larger chainsaw. so many toys, yet the days never seem to get more than 24 hrs in them....
> 
> might have to put this one off for a while. you answered all my questions though, not what i was hoping to hear, but answered just the same!
> 
> thanks!



Hey enjoy what you got!!!!!!!!!!!!!! maybe stop more often an even just give each tooth a couple quick strokes with the file. You might be a little underpowered but heck your still milling. 
I got a MS 650 sure I want a ms 880 but it's what I had the money for when I got it.

Dave


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## kpantherpro (Jul 17, 2013)

Hi first check that your saw is riding square in your set-up and the bar is parallel to your quide, this can have a big impact especially with smaller saws. the next question is how old is that bar and how much firewood have you cut with it, or trees have you cut down has the bar ever been pinched when felling a tree, or bucking limbs? the 50cc is a small saw but you should still be getting somewhere, especially with just an 18" bar, my thought is either the bar is worn, meaning the groove the chain rides in is allowing the chain to go to the side as your milling, which is no good, or the bar is bent most likely from being pinched while felling a tree or cutting off limbs, sometimes it's not even noticeable and will still crosscut fine, but once you start milling you come to a dead stop or have lotsa fine powder, first thing is I would put a brand new chain on and see if that does anything for ripping, don't worry about sharpening it for ripping. Then if there's only marginal improvement try a new bar. hope that helps


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