# How to tune a band saw?



## APBcustoms (Apr 23, 2014)

I will be inheriting a lot of equipment and I'm getting a craftsman bandsaw 1hp and I have been using it for a while. I keep hearing people say you need to tune it idk what that means or how it's done


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## ButchC (Apr 23, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> I will be inheriting a lot of equipment and I'm getting a craftsman bandsaw 1hp and I have been using it for a while. I keep hearing people say you need to tune it idk what that means or how it's done



Austin, did you do a forum search? Start here

And also check youtube for any videos on your specific bandsaw. Much of bandsaw tuning is universal, but there can sometimes be subtle differences in the way things are done.

Check out that thread above; it may answer some questions. You can ask specific questions there as "How to tune a bandsaw" is a very broad topic.


Butch

Reactions: Like 1 | Thank You! 1


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## SENC (Apr 23, 2014)

It depends on what key the music you hope to play with it requires.

Reactions: Funny 1 | Way Cool 1


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## SENC (Apr 23, 2014)

Butch's link is a good one... as is the snodgrass video.


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## APBcustoms (Apr 23, 2014)

The blade sits to the left still between the guides just close to the left guide and it gets a lots of ridges


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## Schroedc (Apr 23, 2014)

If you can post pictures of how your saw is running we can also make specific suggestions.


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## APBcustoms (Apr 23, 2014)

Man it'll be a week or two before it's in my possession


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## barry richardson (Apr 23, 2014)

Not sure what you mean, but it could be as simple as adjusting your tracking, or tension. or the blade your using. I suggest when you take possession, download the manual and go through the basic set-up procedures and get to know the saw. I've found most problems are simple adjustments, or a dull or damaged blade. (between home and work I use and maintain 4 different makes of bandsaws) Try all the simple solutions before you start seeking out the advise of snake oil salesmen.... edit, (not referring to any members here BTW)

Reactions: Like 1 | Informative 1


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## ButchC (Apr 24, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> The blade sits to the left still between the guides just close to the left guide and it gets a lots of ridges



Austin, If you mean that the blade sits closer to the left guide than the right, either while the saw is running or not, you're going to need to adjust the guide blocks. On the Craftsman, there should be an allen key on each of the guide blocks. Loosen each JUST so the block can slide back and forth in the housing. Fold a business card in half and put one half on each side of the blade in between the blade and the guides. Take your other hand and squeeze the guide blocks against the business card and blade, centering the blade. Then tighten the allen keys again. This will give you a good starting point for the guide blocks. There may be other things affecting this setup, so this is not a cure-all; just a starting point.

Butch

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Fret440 (Apr 24, 2014)

Here's a good one for you. Robert is a pretty good teacher.






Jacob


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## Mike1950 (Apr 24, 2014)

barry richardson said:


> Not sure what you mean, but it could be as simple as adjusting your tracking, or tension. or the blade your using. I suggest when you take possession, download the manual and go through the basic set-up procedures and get to know the saw. I've found most problems are simple adjustments, or a dull or damaged blade. (between home and work I use and maintain 4 different makes of bandsaws) Try all the simple solutions before you start seeking out the advise of snake oil salesmen.... edit, (not referring to any members here BTW)




I agree with above- make sure you start with a good blade cause no amount of tuning will make up for a crummy blade.


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## APBcustoms (Apr 24, 2014)

What are some good blades I need 100 inch


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## Mike1950 (Apr 24, 2014)

Depends on what you are doing-resaw- or?/ I buy supercut- factory is 30 miles from me- highland resaw gives a great finish surface and lots of folks like Lennox and olsen.


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## APBcustoms (Apr 24, 2014)

Uh I'll cut blanks out of it lol idk.


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## Fret440 (Apr 24, 2014)

I've used the Olsen blades. They work pretty good and last a long time if you care for them. I would expect the same of the Lennox blades.

Jacob


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## Mike1950 (Apr 24, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> Uh I'll cut blanks out of it lol idk.



Green or dry? different blades for different chores.


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## APBcustoms (Apr 24, 2014)

Mike1950 said:


> Green or dry? different blades for different chores.



Ugh I really cut everything green and dry


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## PhoenixWoodDesigns (Apr 24, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> What are some good blades I need 100 inch



Both myself and my father prefer using Timberwolf brand blades. They are a little more expensive than the cheap-o ones, but you can feel the difference when you're cutting with them.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 24, 2014)

APBcustoms said:


> Ugh I really cut everything green and dry



Start with a 1/2" 3 TPI in a good brand. Don't spend money on the big $ blade until you figure out what you like. Buy some beeswax to coat blade when you are sawing green- helps keep the blade clean. also get some greased lightning to soak blade in to get resin off when you get build up- if you soak them it will just melt off. Enjoy


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## brown down (May 15, 2014)

you also before just ordering blades, check to see if they are meant for that saw even tho they make that size. meaning, I bought a lennox and come to find out that the thickness of the blade isn't meant for a small saw like I have. I have a 14 inch and the blade stress cracked and broke way before it was dull from going around a smaller radius. another thing as far as tuning, If your saw is tuned well you won't need your side bearings only your thrust bearing! I don't even know where mine are lol. but I only really resaw. tuning a bandsaw can def get confusing which if not careful will lead to it getting worse. vise grips and an accurate straight edge clamped between the teeth will let you accurately check your miter slot and fence to make sure the saw is running true with both. if the miter slot is off you have to adjust the table, if your fence is off and that is the one I find to be off more so than the table, there should be adjustment screws to bring it in or out!

like mike said, you can tune that saw till the cows come home and if your running a crap blade on it, you'll be banging your head trying to figure out what is going on. If you are gonna resaw a lot of green timber CLEAN your blades a lot. most of the time the blade isn't dull yet it just needs cleansed. If you get carbide tipped blades, watch what you clean it with as some chemicals have been known to damage the weld on the carbide! 

hope this helps out 
Jeff

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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