# When dyeing a sharply curved surface,



## Alan Sweet (Jul 12, 2015)

like an ornament or beads on a vase or whatever, how do you maintain a consistent absorption over the surface and still get reasonable dye absorption.

I've tried various sealers (thinned shellac, Deft sanding sealer, sanding 150-220, ..) not happy with result.

So, can anyone enlighten me?


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## DKMD (Jul 12, 2015)

If you're talking about the end grain/face grain difference, sanding to a higher grit seems to help some. Sealer also helps some.

Best option: use burl... Problem solved!

Reactions: Agree 1


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## DavidDobbs (Jul 12, 2015)

What are you mixing the dye with to apply it ?


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## Alan Sweet (Jul 12, 2015)

Water base or AL based dyes doesn't seem to make a difference; Trans Tint, Artisan, and Mosers. They all absorb significantly different in the face/end grain transition to make a sharp contrast. shellac seems cut the difference. I used shellac on end grain in cabinets and it really helps along with higher grit with stain, but in cabinets you can more easily control the area of application.

This is all wiped on. Would it be better if I dipped them and let soak for awhile?


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## Final Strut (Jul 12, 2015)

@Treecycle Hardwoods has done some dye work. Maybe he can offer some tips.


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## gman2431 (Jul 12, 2015)

I've been using transtint and made some really narly looking pieces until I figured out it needed to be sanded more. It might seem overkill but I got the micro mesh out just to make sure the grain differences were dead smooth. 

Once I got that figured out it seems to be working fine using DNA and wiping on. I also raised the grain with DNA while sanding prior to dyeing. 

I did also make a turning super thin and tried a different color on the inside and got bleed through. I've been told shellac will help with that since it doesn't penetrate as far.


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## Treecycle Hardwoods (Jul 13, 2015)

It certainly is tricky getting any type of colorant even from side grain to end grain. I was taught using boiled linseed oil to pretreat the end grain before staining but I haven't attempted that when using the water based colors due to fear of the linseed oil botching up the water based finish. I have almost always used the colors on burls rather than just straight grain. I can only think on one piece that i used color on that was straight grain and that was a bandsaw box I colored for the guys at the woodbarter gathering. I used red and did notice some areas darker right off the bat but it was also wet, so I didn't panic I just waited till it was dry then I went in and added more color to areas that needed it. Don't get frustrated trying to color a finished piece use a piece of wood that is the same species and work with the color til you have it right. It is also worth noting that the water based dyes can be re-activated with a water soaked cloth so if you get it too dark use a plain water cloth to wash or remove some of the color just know that water will raise the grain so it is best to precondition the grain prior to starting. If there is anything else I can help with drop me a line. Life has been uber hectic the last month so i may not be super timely with my responses but would help if i can.


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## Jerry B (Jul 13, 2015)

along with the above ideas, I also have to agree more with David,
to get a smoother more even coverage you need to prep the blank more, sanding to a higher grit making all the wood the same density/porosity
but also by sanding more, you'll have to apply 2-3 coats color in order to get a deeper richer look
I always get better results when using TransTint dyes/stains when doing coloring


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## Alan Sweet (Jul 13, 2015)

@Jerry B , I may have missed something (not unusual for me), but I only got one response from @DavidDobbs


DavidDobbs said:


> What are you mixing the dye with to apply it ?



Did he respond about sanding or the dye media?

Looks like I got experimenting to do.


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## DKMD (Jul 13, 2015)

Alan Sweet said:


> @Jerry B , I may have missed something (not unusual for me), but I only got one response from @DavidDobbs
> 
> 
> Did he respond about sanding or the dye media?
> ...


My name is David too... I think he was talking about my suggestion to sand to a finer grit and pretreat the wood with something.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Alan Sweet (Jul 13, 2015)

See I told you it is not unusual for me to miss somethig...

Reactions: Funny 2


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## DavidDobbs (Jul 13, 2015)

What ever dye I use ( rit, transtint, Alumilite, natural mixes) I mix it with methanol. DNA will work also.
I mix it in quart spray bottles.

If it is something I am turning. I have basically have it sanded the point of ready to put finish on. I turn the lathe down as slow as it will go 60 rpm.
Put some paper towels on the lathe bed.
Spray and soak the wood. Let it spin till it is all soaked in do it again again and again. Let it spin till it seems pretty dry.
Speed it up a bit doing such till it is dry enough to sand again. If don't like what I see I do it all over again.
Dave

Reactions: Agree 1


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