# Green Mesquite



## El Guapo (Sep 23, 2013)

I am lucky enough to have a pretty good supply of mesquite in exchange for six-packs and small turning projects. I know that mesquite is characteristically different than other woods in terms of stability and shrinkage, so here are my questions:

I want to send some mesquite to a buddy of mine in Florida to say thank you for something. He makes pepper mills and I know he would love a 3x3x12+ blank. What do I need to do green mesquite cut approximately six weeks ago to get it from Houston to Florida without checking/cracking/spontaneously combusting?

Second, how long do I need to let green mesquite air dry before throwing it on the lathe?

I appreciate any and all help (and even moderate sarcasm)!


----------



## DKMD (Sep 24, 2013)

Wrapping it in cellophane or shrink wrap is great for shipping as long as the blanks are check and pith free before wrapping. They'll mold if left wrapped for long periods of time, but that doesn't change the actual wood.

Turning wet mesquite is fun, so there's no need to wait. For something like a peppermill or lidded box, I'd want dry wood, but I don't know the drying properties of mesquite. Even though it's quite stable, I don't think if chance a peppermill using green mesquite. He can round them up between centers and speed things along a bit, and a kiln would certainly get him from green to dry faster than the watch and wait process I use.


----------



## Kevin (Sep 24, 2013)

Like all green wood skeet should be sealed with log sealer or wax as soon as practicable. You can rough turn it on the lathe immediately, in fact most turners prefer to do so. 

As to the sarcasm, I can't help you there. It's not something I ever engage in and frankly I find it offensive that you'd attempt to illicit such churlish activity.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## El Guapo (Sep 24, 2013)

Should I just seal the end-grain, or should I seal each face? Based on what I've read in the forums, it looks like Anchorseal 2 is a good way to go. If I seal with Anchorseal, do I still need to wrap in cellophane?


----------



## Kevin (Sep 24, 2013)

Mesquite only needs end grain sealed except where there's figured areas. I prefer AS2 over anything else. Cellophane has drawbacks compared to sealer - takes forever to dry compared to sealer and mildew is unavoidable at least here in my region so I use it only as a last resort. Okay actually I never use it but it's personal preference I guess.


----------



## DKMD (Sep 24, 2013)

I should clarify... The cellophane wrap would only be used to ship the piece with the recipient unwrapping the wood upon arrival. As Kevin suggested, it's a rotten way to store wood. Since wood can be exposed to some pretty extreme temperature and humidity fluctuations while in route, the plastic provides a layer of protection beyond what you'd get with a wax sealer. I'd still seal the endgrain with AS, but I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy... I'd wrap it too. A plastic bag would provide the same moisture containment, so that would be an alternative to plastic wrap. I'm not suggesting it's a necessity, but it may provide an additional level of protection for shipping..


----------



## El Guapo (Sep 24, 2013)

Thanks for the advice guys! I think I'll seal both ends, wrap in cellophane, then dip it all in wax, wrap in a plastic Baggie, dip again in wax, then deal it in concrete... Should be well protected!

On second thought, I'll just seal both ends with AS2 and call it good!


----------



## Woodsman (Oct 17, 2013)

El Guapo said:


> I am lucky enough to have a pretty good supply of mesquite in exchange for six-packs and small turning projects. I know that mesquite is characteristically different than other woods in terms of stability and shrinkage, so here are my questions:
> 
> I want to send some mesquite to a buddy of mine in Florida to say thank you for something. He makes pepper mills and I know he would love a 3x3x12+ blank. What do I need to do green mesquite cut approximately six weeks ago to get it from Houston to Florida without checking/cracking/spontaneously combusting?
> 
> ...



I wouldn't recommend using any anchorseal unless it has some reasonably good figure to it. If it is straight grained (for mesquite that is), the anchorseal will just slow down the drying process. Mesquite has, as you suggested, very little shrinkage. Figured pieces can and will crack, split, etc. if they are dried quickly, and could benefit from the application of Anchorseal, paint, or wax applied to the ends of the piece while really burly pieces would benefit from an application of such products on all surfaces. 

As to the question of how long will it take to dry it, that all depends on where you store it while drying it. If you store it outside, it'll likely be a while considering where you live, however, it should dry relatively quickly somewhere in your house where the humidity is removed from the air by your central air unit. It should dry enough to work in about a month or so though. 

If, however, you should need it quicker, you could also store it in an oven set to about 150 degrees. It turns out that this will dry it in just about a week. I do this for some pieces that I need quickly. I have the space in my shop and just happen to have an extra oven to do it in. I cover the oven rack with aluminum foil so that the element's heat isn't charring the wood. I also have a thermometer that I can place in it so that I can monitor the temp without opening the door. I turn it on when I get to the shop, and turn it off and open the door at night so that it can cool off and let the moisture escape. If it were something other than mesquite, it would also serve to condition the wood, although I don't think that mesquite receives much benefit in that regard. 

I hope this helps.

[attachment=32913]


----------

