# Danish oil help



## Kenbo (Jul 29, 2012)

I have made a box out of walnut, with inlaid maple dovetails (pictures to follow later in the woodworkers completed projects section). I want to try something different for the finish on this one and I have never used danish oil. I can get some clear danish oil tomorrow. I guess my questions are these..............
1) what should I expect from this oil as far as ease of application?
2) what would be the best method for me to apply this danish oil for the best results?
3) what kind of luster does danish oil provide, if any?
4) is danish oil a durable finish?
5) will the oil yellow over time and take away from the contrast between maple and walnut?

Basically, any information that you fellas are willing to share about danish oil would be greatly appreciated. I've never used it and just don't know what to expect.
Thanks


----------



## Mike1950 (Jul 29, 2012)

Kenbo, Danish oil has it's +'s but I do not think duability would be one of them. Ease of repair would be one. I used danish oil on my bench- it is a quite flat finish- I had it and the finish look was not what I was going for-function was it. Boxes can take a beating with everday use. I like the poly's-with oil.


----------



## Mike1950 (Jul 29, 2012)

Also the true-oil gunstock finish I have been useing is a very durable finish and a no brainer to use. Can be gloss or satin.... when you steel wool it- the grain is very enhanced. Will have pics soon almost done.


----------



## West River WoodWorks (Jul 29, 2012)

I agree with all the previous comments +1!
I use danish oil to also pop the color and the grain of the wood. IMHO its the best way to bring out the quartersawn figure of white oak.
However it soaks into the wood and does not build any film finish.
I generally start with danish or boiled linseed oil and then finish with a wipe on poly of some sort.
Good luck with your finishing project!
Tom


----------



## Brink (Jul 29, 2012)

Kenbo said:


> I have made a box out of walnut, with inlaid maple dovetails (pictures to follow later in the woodworkers completed projects section). I want to try something different for the finish on this one and I have never used danish oil. I can get some clear danish oil tomorrow. I guess my questions are these..............
> 1) what should I expect from this oil as far as ease of application?
> 2) what would be the best method for me to apply this danish oil for the best results?
> 3) what kind of luster does danish oil provide, if any?
> ...



1 and 2) very easy to apply. Brush, roller, rag, I've even dipped small intricate pieces. Just as long as it can penetrate for 15 mins, then wipe off the excess. It contains mostly BLO, so take care in disposing the rags.

3) it leaves a low luster finish. Polishing out with 0000 synthetic steel wool will make it a bit shinier. 

4) not a terribly durable finish. I won't use it on a table top, but would on the legs. 

5) from what I've see, the color Danish oil imparts on the wood won't change with time, but there is a slight ambering with the natural color.


----------



## Brink (Jul 29, 2012)

[attachment=8412]

Black walnut bowl and cubes. Bowl has natural DO, cubes are unfinished.



[attachment=8413]

Just an idea of how walnut will darken with DO


----------



## Brink (Jul 29, 2012)

App is screwing up again. Here's the pic.

[attachment=8416]


----------



## Brink (Jul 29, 2012)

There is a pic, a nice one, but the app doesn't want me to share.


----------



## woodtickgreg (Jul 29, 2012)

+1 to what the others have said, I like to top coat an oil finish with either poly or wax. Wax mostly for turnings. Nothing seems to pop the grain and figure like an oil finish, it just seems to add depth and warmth. I like to apply a couple of coats of oil first, let it soak in well, and keep warm for a day or 2 between coats. A simple test that I use is to wipe the object with a clean white rag each day until I no longer see oil on the rag. Remember oily rags can spontainiously combust, lay out all rags flat to dry before disposal.


----------



## justturnin (Jul 31, 2012)

I have never used Danish Oil but I have been using MinWax Antique Oil (MAO) and it seems to be doing will. I have not seen a piece with it a year later to know how it will affect darker woods though. I get it at Ace HW, and that is the only place I have ever seen it.


----------



## NYWoodturner (Aug 2, 2012)

LOL - Got enough opinions yet?!! Just to add one more - Here is how I use Danish oil. I use it fairy often with turnings. I mix it 50/50 with Boiled Linseed Oil. Then flood coat until a piece won't take anymore - pay close attention to end grain. When it stops taking any I let it dry to the touch - depending on the wood this is 24 to 72 hours. Then I will re-coat in the same fashion you do a french polish - as many times as it will still build or until I run out of patience - whichever comes first - Its usually me that gives in but persistence pays dividends here. Then just like Greg - when its dry enough that I cannot get oil on my hands or much of a smell it is ready to buff. I then buff it out. Usually polishes like glass. The harder and denser the wood the more gloss. Don't try it on punky or spalted woods - you will think its a waste of time. Hope it helps.
Scott


----------



## Kenbo (Aug 4, 2012)

All the replies are great guys. Thanks a lot.


----------

