# Who sells a good slimline kit?



## barry richardson (Mar 5, 2013)

Just started messing with pen making a bit. Got some cheap kits from PSI, I like the looks of the pens fine, put you can tell it has a cheap transmission when you cycle it. Want to stick with slimlines for now, cause thats what I have all the mandrels for. What is a good kit for a decent price, and who sells it?


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## healeydays (Mar 5, 2013)

There was a conversation on those pens here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/slimline-108157/


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## barry richardson (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks, are all kits the same then?[/font]


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## healeydays (Mar 5, 2013)

My guess is no. Don't know. I would suggest asking the question over on penturners.org


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## AXEMAN58 (Mar 5, 2013)

All the slimline kits are gonna be about the same as far as components are concerned (transmission, refill, etc). If you are using bushings, they are specifc to each type of kit, but the mandrel is not. 

In my experience, the Trimline kits are better quality than the Slimline. For a silky smooth transmission, try some Graduate or Concava kits, also from PSI. You have only to buy the bushings specific for them (about 5 bucks +/-) and use your same mandrel. 

I hope my 2 cents helps you.


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## Wildthings (Mar 5, 2013)

AXEMAN58 said:


> All the slimline kits are gonna be about the same as far as components are concerned (transmission, refill, etc). If you are using bushings, they are specifc to each type of kit, but the mandrel is not.
> 
> In my experience, the Trimline kits are better quality than the Slimline. For a silky smooth transmission, try some Graduate or Concava kits, also from PSI. You have only to buy the bushings specific for them (about 5 bucks +/-) and use your same mandrel.
> 
> I hope my 2 cents helps you.



Or not buy the bushings and just turn them between centers using a pair of calipers. That's what I have evolve to and won't go back to mandrels

Barry


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## ssgmeader (Mar 5, 2013)

I've bought slimlines from EBay and some other online sites like woodturners cataloge.com. I'll be honest the Wood Craft line although maybe a little more pricey is good. I've never had an issue inserting the parts into the brass tubes...which I have had with other pen manufacturers. And I get a lot of compliments that my pens turn smooth and write great. Woodcrafters sells a 10 pack for 31.50 if you have a brick and mortar location near you. to me the 31.50 or so equals to about what you pay online +shipping ...maybe a little more than that but I get piece of mind that if there's an issue with a kit I can return it to the store near me. I've yet to buy anything from PSI but I do hear good things about their kits.


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## barry richardson (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. The kits that I made were clickers, not twist, which seems to be the norm for slimlines in all the discussions I've looked at. I have went ahead and bought some slimline comfort kits from PSI. Not suree if I need different bushings, guess I will find out


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## Wildthings (Mar 5, 2013)

barry richardson said:


> Thanks for the replies. The kits that I made were clickers, not twist, which seems to be the norm for slimlines in all the discussions I've looked at. I have went ahead and bought some slimline comfort kits from PSI. Not suree if I need different bushings, guess I will find out



Barry, if you have a good pair of calipers then just put the prepared blank in between centers, one dead center (headstock) and one live center (tailstock). Turn it down close to where you want to be and then caliper the actual part, i.e. nib, center, cap, etc. Take that measurement and apply it to the piece on the lathe and sneak up on the right size for both ends. At that point I sand and do the finishing right there between centers. Once done with that one do the other half of the pen the same way.

Since I've evolved to this “way” my "out of round" pens from problems with the mandrels have disappeared and my finishes have become nicer. Also I don't have to by bushings for every single type of pen I want to try!!
Barry


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## longbeard (Mar 5, 2013)

Wildthings said:


> barry richardson said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the replies. The kits that I made were clickers, not twist, which seems to be the norm for slimlines in all the discussions I've looked at. I have went ahead and bought some slimline comfort kits from PSI. Not suree if I need different bushings, guess I will find out
> ...



This method will work, but you have to very careful not to "waller" the ends of the tube. I use the bushings from http://penturnersproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_3&products_id=73
I get all my slimlines from Craft Supply USA, i've made hundreds, some with the stylus on the clip end, have yet to have a problem with them. I have not tried other SL from other vendors.


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## barry richardson (Mar 5, 2013)

Wildthings said:


> barry richardson said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the replies. The kits that I made were clickers, not twist, which seems to be the norm for slimlines in all the discussions I've looked at. I have went ahead and bought some slimline comfort kits from PSI. Not suree if I need different bushings, guess I will find out
> ...


Thanks for the tip, I enjoy improvising too. It seems to me the centers might flare the tubes if you held it tight enough to turn it, but what do I know,:i_dunno: Im a pen turning newb...


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## longbeard (Mar 5, 2013)

[Thanks for the tip, I enjoy improvising too. It seems to me the centers might flare the tubes if you held it tight enough to turn it, but what do I know,:i_dunno: Im a pen turning newb...
[/quote]

You are correct Barry, your centers can and will flare the tubes,( flare, that was the word i was looking for instead of waller)


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## ssgmeader (Mar 5, 2013)

Wildthings said:


> barry richardson said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the replies. The kits that I made were clickers, not twist, which seems to be the norm for slimlines in all the discussions I've looked at. I have went ahead and bought some slimline comfort kits from PSI. Not suree if I need different bushings, guess I will find out
> ...



That's a pretty advanced way of doing it. I just check my mandrel periodically to ensure it's straight and not become bent from over tightening the tail stock, I check it with a metal straight edge and look for a bow. they're not to expensive to replace if it becomes warped. I also like the mandrel system because it gives me more space to work between headstock and tailstock.


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## longbeard (Mar 5, 2013)

ssgmeader said:


> Wildthings said:
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> > barry richardson said:
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I used to swear by the mandral, didnt think i would like doing a 2 piece pen, one piece at a time. Once i used them, no turning back. I started with 7mm bushings first.
For the price on the 7mm set, be worth trying to see if you like it.


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## BassBlaster (Mar 5, 2013)

Look for places that source thier parts from Taiwan rather than China. The Taiwan made parts are a whole lot better quality. I get most of my ball point kits from Berea Hardwoods and roller ball and fountain from Dayacom. I actually order most of my stuff from Ed and Dawn at Exoticblanks as they sell from all the suppliers and at better prices.

For a nice click pen, look at the long click from Dayacom. Its considerably fatter than a slimline and requires a long flute drill bit but it gets the best reviews for a click pen. In fact, its the only click mechanism that gets good reviews at all.


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## Jdaschel (Mar 5, 2013)

In my opinion, berea makes the best slimlines. I have made probably a hundred of them. And I have got them from everywhere, timberbits, psi, berea. 

I found that the quality of the parts is the best. On the psi ones, I found a bunch of have off center, centerbands. 
The berea ones, are a perfect machined, and slide in easy, without coming back out. And the transmission is so much better and hefty.
Berea's plating is really good on the slims too. Even there crappy gold platings are not crappy as other because they have an epoxy coating on it.


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## NCWoodArt (Mar 5, 2013)

I have had good luck & price on the Rockler Slimlines, I purchased about 200 of them 3 years ago & I am still trying to get them all used. Still have over 100 left. Gold plating is good & the fit is great. I also have had good luck with woodcraft & Psi kits.


Bill


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## ssgmeader (Mar 5, 2013)

longbeard said:


> ssgmeader said:
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> > Wildthings said:
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So do you just set the points of head stock and tail stock directly into the 7mm bushings with the tube in between? I could definitely see doing this with a Wall St or other single barrel pen or even a rollerball/fountain that uses two different size pieces. I prefer my slimlines to be straight and equal diameter from nib to tail. But I may try it with my Wall St bushings.


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## Wildthings (Mar 5, 2013)

Yes put the point of the dead center (headstock) and the live center (tailstock) into either the holes on the bushings or the tubes if not using bushings. Tighten the tailstock in to when you grab the live center it doesn't slip, lock 'er down and get to turning. I do my CA finishes with no bushings. When you use bushings the CA continues onto the bushing and lots of time they'll crack over onto the blank when trying to separate them. Using no bushings during CA finishing lets the CA drop onto the center and they all come off with no problems. An end mill cleans the excess CA right off of the pen blank at that point

Barry


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## ssgmeader (Mar 5, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> Look for places that source thier parts from Taiwan rather than China. The Taiwan made parts are a whole lot better quality. I get most of my ball point kits from Berea Hardwoods and roller ball and fountain from Dayacom. I actually order most of my stuff from Ed and Dawn at Exoticblanks as they sell from all the suppliers and at better prices.
> 
> For a nice click pen, look at the long click from Dayacom. Its considerably fatter than a slimline and requires a long flute drill bit but it gets the best reviews for a click pen. In fact, its the only click mechanism that gets good reviews at all.



Do you order direct from Dayacom?


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## ssgmeader (Mar 5, 2013)

Wildthings said:


> Yes put the point of the dead center (headstock) and the live center (tailstock) into either the holes on the bushings or the tubes if not using bushings. Tighten the tailstock in to when you grab the live center it doesn't slip, lock 'er down and get to turning. I do my CA finishes with no bushings. When you use bushings the CA continues onto the bushing and lots of time they'll crack over onto the blank when trying to separate them. Using no bushings during CA finishing lets the CA drop onto the center and they all come off with no problems. An end mill cleans the excess CA right off of the pen blank at that point
> 
> Barry



I can see that. I don't do CA, when I first started I was always getting cloudy and splotchyness. So one day I said screw this and switched to Mylars friction polish. I've never went back to CA. I do a sanding sealer then the Mylars and it's a good time versus durability trade off.


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## barry richardson (Mar 6, 2013)

Thanks for all the feedback guys! Just the kind of info I was looking for


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## BassBlaster (Mar 6, 2013)

ssgmeader said:


> BassBlaster said:
> 
> 
> > Look for places that source thier parts from Taiwan rather than China. The Taiwan made parts are a whole lot better quality. I get most of my ball point kits from Berea Hardwoods and roller ball and fountain from Dayacom. I actually order most of my stuff from Ed and Dawn at Exoticblanks as they sell from all the suppliers and at better prices.
> ...



No, I get the Dayacom kits from Exotics or CSUSA, usually Exotics.

Someone mentioned they had good luck with WoodCraft kits. 90% of the kits that WC sells are rebagged Berea kits sold at twice the price. I get the Sierra Elegant Beauty's directly from Berea or from Exotics for 11 bucks each. The same kit at WC, called a WallStreet something another is 21 bucks.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 6, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> ssgmeader said:
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> > BassBlaster said:
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I buy from wood crafter alot, because I have a local nstore near me. See I've found just the opposite. I went and bought 2 Continetals last night at WC for 21.98 and they are listed on Exotic Blanks.com for 18.50 but once you add the $5 for shipping its 23.50 so 1.50 more, maybe it's because I only buy a few pens at a time and not large enough quantities for the bulk discount.....oh and if your a member of the turners club at my local store you get 10% off your purchases so now it's a $3.70 difference.


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## BassBlaster (Mar 6, 2013)

ssgmeader said:


> BassBlaster said:
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> > ssgmeader said:
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It depends on the kit. The one I gave an example on, is still cheaper to buy direct even after shipping and tax. (Berea is in OH, so they charge me tax on my orders). I typically order 10 or more kits at a time and the example I gave is my best selling pen. Now were talking about a $100 difference on the same 10 pen kits. I do buy from WC on occasion but only when I'm in a pinch and cant wait for shipping.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 6, 2013)

BassBlaster said:


> ssgmeader said:
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> > BassBlaster said:
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Oh wow yeah I just looked at your example and even at 1 pen the sticker price is $6 difference.


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## ssgmeader (Mar 13, 2013)

Wildthings said:


> Yes put the point of the dead center (headstock) and the live center (tailstock) into either the holes on the bushings or the tubes if not using bushings. Tighten the tailstock in to when you grab the live center it doesn't slip, lock 'er down and get to turning. I do my CA finishes with no bushings. When you use bushings the CA continues onto the bushing and lots of time they'll crack over onto the blank when trying to separate them. Using no bushings during CA finishing lets the CA drop onto the center and they all come off with no problems. An end mill cleans the excess CA right off of the pen blank at that point
> 
> Barry



Wanted to thank Wildthings for this tip. I tried this turning method it last night with a Continental from Woodcraft. And it worked real well. (I was a bit nervous because the headstock I have is Spur chuck (the ones with the 4 grip blades) And my fingers were coming awfully close. But once I got going . I must say best Fit I've gotten from that kit so far and absolutly no out of roundness. I'll post pictures later.


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