# Band saw experts. Please help.



## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Before I purchase a new bandsaw. I was wonder if anybody could help me out. Wheels are confirmed co-planer. Bandsaw blade is new and in the middle of both wheels. It is tensioned correctly. And The guides are disengaged at the moment. The table is square to the blade. The table is as far over as it can be when aligning the table parallel to the blade. The blade has always been off Center in the table. The issue is it is getting worse. It use to be 1/8” out. It is now 3/8” out. See pic. Any help would be appreciated. When I first bought the bandsaw the manufacturer said that it was normal to not centered. I find this hard to believe. That would lead me to believe their QAQC from the factory is well to put it politely non existent. Unfortunately the manufacturer doesn’t stand behind their product which I why I’m reaching out. 

Any help would be much appreciated.

Other notes. Blade tension has always released when not in use. 

The drive belt has been released 50 percent of the time. Apparently that was the root cause of it failing after 2 years. According to the manufacturer. 

The machine had vibrations when I first received it. But that was because the blade that came with it had a bad weld. After i took some sandpaper to it the vibrations went away for the most part. 

Thank you


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 5, 2020)

Check your trunion mounting bolts to see if they are loose, or can be loosened to move the whole assembly including the table over to center it. You've been messing with most of the other things so that rules them out. Looks to me that if the guides are all backed off and the blade is tensioned then it's something to do with the trunion mount. Either the trunion needs to be moved or the table.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

what brand?


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I forgot to mention. Trunion bolts are tight. I removed the table and the trunion. I had to push max them out to the right. Both the table and the trunion.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Rikon 10-326.


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## woodtickgreg (Apr 5, 2020)

I dunno then without actually putting my hands on it.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

most brag about Rikon service. how does it cut?


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Unfortunately my experience has not be the same. 

It used to cut great. Blade won’t run my resaw king anymore. I even bought a second one because I was convinced the other one garbage.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

also a picture of upper guides


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I’ve spent 2 full days on it. And everything appears to be as it should. It was mostly used it for resaw.

At this point I’m ready to upgrade to either the laguna lt14 suv when driftmaster fence or the Powermatic.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Everything removed. As it had been apart multiple times. 

guides are set here and blade tensioned.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Lower portion


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## eaglea1 (Apr 5, 2020)

Hmmmm, just a guess here from just a photo, but it looks like the issue is with the guides. Mine, I would take the guides off
completely and do a parallel geometry from the wheel fronts. I may be completely off on this though without actually seeing
it first hand. Good luck
Nice jointer!


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

The guides aren’t touching the blade. So I would think that would have no effect on blade position. But maybe someone can confirm. I have a video of everything running. But I can’t post it here. you can see the saw running and the bearings are staying still.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

same pic tension released


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Tension on. Guides released.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

3 possibilities- They built it this way
2. something in table or? has shifted.
3. the 14" saw being max tensioned with large blade- frame was not up to task and has flexed...


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Tension released


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

put guides back


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I’m thinking it’s the frame. I have a pic

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

with just enough tension to keep blade straight


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

This was my first thought. But I wanted an unbiased opinion

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

laguna- I had 14 BX- 2.5 hp- best brake I have had. guides were almost impossible to adjust -no room and I sure did not like sparks. I would not buy a saw again with ceramic guides. replacement guides are very spendy. service sucked.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> This was my first thought. But I wanted an unbiased opinion
> 
> View attachment 184049
> 
> View attachment 184050



I think you would have to compare to new saw- but you are probably right


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Guides off. And tension just enough to be straight. Would need some more tension to cut.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> I think you would have to compare to new saw- but you are probably right




Bringing my straight edge to woodcraft now.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

my opinion of saws out there. You cannot buy new american. Laguna 14 is great hobby saw- but above I would not use in pro setting. simple is good. I have 2 griz 19's and one 21. If I could have 1 it would be the 21. no flex- 600 + lbs. They are simple machines- no frills- no gadgets- all 3 with brake- all 3 used. what Can I say- I am cheap. I bought laguna -ding and dent new- I loved brake but learned to hate it for my use. rikon 19 is a good saw with great resaw- got a feelin it is not a choice. Jet is great saw- no brake.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> laguna- I had 14 BX- 2.5 hp- best brake I have had. guides were almost impossible to adjust -no room and I sure did not like sparks. I would not buy a saw again with ceramic guides. replacement guides are very spendy. service sucked.




Hmm. I might have my heart set on a the laguna lt14 suv

Reactions: Like 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Hmm. I might have my heart set on a the laguna lt14 suv




I was thinking the 3hp would be nice when I’m resawing 9” wide coco as the 10-326 really struggled

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Hmm. I might have my heart set on a the laguna lt14 suv


try adjusting the guides while at wood craft. My fingers get cramps just thinking about changing blade size. and. they are probably made in same factory with same metal. I think maxed out 14" is the problem. Good luck


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> I was thinking the 3hp would be nice when I’m resawing 9” wide coco as the 10-326 really struggled


mine was 2.5 hp BX- plenty of power. I never reawed with it - have 14.5 capability with 21 and more than enough power


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I phoned woodcraft to make sure they had some on the floor and they don’t have one. So I will have to get someone with a 10-326 and a 4’ straight edge to confirm. Hopefully someone out here can help

Reactions: Like 1


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## Woodworking Vet (Apr 5, 2020)

Justin, I have the 10-326 bandsaw as well and have never seen this issue that you're having. Have you tried contacting Rikon? I had to contact them once when I broke a part on the fence. They were quite responsive and sent me a new one the next day. I would think they can help you through this.

Damon

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

Woodworking Vet said:


> Justin, I have the 10-326 bandsaw as well and have never seen this issue that you're having. Have you tried contacting Rikon? I had to contact them once when I broke a part on the fence. They were quite responsive and sent me a new one the next day. I would think they can help you through this.
> 
> Damon


do you have straight edge?


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I phoned and left a message. I also sent an email. 

Any chance you could put a 4’ straight on the back. I’m out 1/4” from being flat.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 5, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> I phoned and left a message. I also sent an email.
> 
> Any chance you could put a 4’ straight on the back. I’m out 1/4” from being flat.



willing to bet it is bent

Reactions: Agree 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> willing to bet it is bent



I hope but I don’t hope at the same point. I’d be back at square one. From an engineering and manufacturing point I can’t see them adding a bend. Tension is stressed in that direction. I have had the saw a part atleast a dozen times. And it always goes back in the same position.


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## Woodworking Vet (Apr 5, 2020)

I do have a straight edge. Tell me exactly what you need me to check, a picture wouldn't hurt. I'm still trying to wake up and having my coffee but can go out to the shop a little later this morning. I'll even tromp through the snow for you


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## Woodworking Vet (Apr 5, 2020)

I'll check the frame like you have pictured, but won't be until I have my coffee.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

I greatly appreciate it. Thank you. The curvature starts around the switch for me. Thanks


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## Woodworking Vet (Apr 5, 2020)

@4jo3 , I put my straight edge up alongside the bandsaw. The first straight edge I used was warped, go figure. The second one is straight. I do have a slight gap. The straight edge is flush along the bottom edge, the gap at the very top measures about 1/8". I don't thing that this is going to be your issue, or at least not a huge contributing factor. 

I know you've probably tried these but just in case;

Loosen the bolts under the table, there should be a little bit of free play that might allow you to move the table slightly to the side


 

Then I would try loosening the two bolts that hold the trunion on the frame (see below picture). This might give you a little bit of play to move the table as well.



 


Other than that all I can suggest is to continue trying to get a hold of Rikon. I understand they may not be in the office during the various stay at home policies but surely someone is checking emails. Call and email daily if you have to. Like I said before, I have had really good experiences with Rikon's customer service.

When you do get the saw working you will love it. Its a great saw and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

Damon


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Thank you for checking.

I tried the table adjustments. They are maxed out. 

Rikon said they were out off the office till atleast April 7. I think i may have to wait for them.


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## eaglea1 (Apr 5, 2020)

Justin , just curious but did you buy this saw new or ? Just a thought if someone had it and maybe put the wrong wheels on...grasping at straws here..

Reactions: Agree 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 5, 2020)

Brand new. I’m grasping too. I phoned rikon about it not aligning when I first bought it. They said it was normal. I would have thought the throat plate should have fit from factory. But it’s getting much worse. And I bought it for resaw purposes and I can’t/don’t use the resaw blade. I checked bearings. Took apart everything multiple times. Made sure all surfaces were sawdust free when I reassembled. I can use my 5/8” blade. But the 3/4” resaw king is very close to the table.


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## Karl_TN (Apr 6, 2020)

If you are stuck with the machine then consider a thinner belt on both wheels to bring alignment back left a little.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 6, 2020)

Noted. Rikon got back to me and we are diagnosing. They have been very helpful so far.

Reactions: Like 2


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## Mike1950 (Apr 6, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Noted. Rikon got back to me and we are diagnosing. They have been very helpful so far.


They are known for great customer service. I have considered their big 18" saw


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## 4jo3 (Apr 6, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> They are known for great customer service. I have considered their big 18" saw



I owe them a couple pictures. But it’s sounding like bent frame.

Reactions: Like 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 6, 2020)

They indicated that it doesn’t affect the qualify of the cut. However when I can’t use a 3/4” wide blade. Something is out of spec.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## barry richardson (Apr 6, 2020)

I have read this somewhere before a couple of times, maybe in Mark Dugenski's Bandsaw book; even though 14" bandsaws advertise that the can take 3/4" blades, they don't have the structural strength to tension them properly, and cranking down the tension too much with that sized blade can spring the frame....

Reactions: Agree 2


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## 4jo3 (Apr 6, 2020)

I’m pretty sure it wasn’t over tensioned. Since I’m the only one that uses it. Although it has always been loose. I did question woodcraft when I bought it thou. As it did come tensioned. I always release it when I don’t use it. The gauge has never read properly. As sometimes it flutters when it reads the correct tension. When I tension the the blade I’m always super careful.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mike1950 (Apr 6, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> I’m pretty sure it wasn’t over tensioned. Since I’m the only one that uses it. Although it has always been loose. I did question woodcraft when I bought it thou. As it did come tensioned. I always release it when I don’t use it. The gauge has never read properly. As sometimes it flutters when it reads the correct tension. When I tension the the blade I’m always super careful.


Gauges on all saws are just reference point. I do not use...


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## Graybeard (Apr 7, 2020)

I have a saw just like it and my blade doesn't look like that. I'd have to go with a bent post as well. I have vibration issues that I'm trying to remedy. The fact you said it came that way at first and is getting worse tells me it was a defective unit. I've never been a fan of the sheet metal instead of cast iron. I replaced the base with a plywood one I made and that helped with the vibration some but I'd like to get it fine tuned.


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## Mike1950 (Apr 7, 2020)

Graybeard said:


> I have a saw just like it and my blade doesn't look like that. I'd have to go with a bent post as well. I have vibration issues that I'm trying to remedy. The fact you said it came that way at first and is getting worse tells me it was a defective unit. I've never been a fan of the sheet metal instead of cast iron. I replaced the base with a plywood one I made and that helped with the vibration some but I'd like to get it fine tuned.


The box steel frame is far superior to cast. Engineering works


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## 4jo3 (Apr 7, 2020)

I was looking online at the rikon website. It was stated. 

“Saws are constructed with a solid steel welded main column and support frames for extra rigidity and stability” 

I did see their sell sheet. It did state 5 year warranty. Not sure what that entails. I haven’t mentioned anything yet. I would really like a tech to come and confirm everything I’m saying. The downtime is killing me. Which is why I’m leaning towards another bandsaw. 

My saw vibrated when I first got it. It was mostly because of the blade. The weld wasn’t completely flat a little sandpaper fixed that. I’m also pretty sure they had me adjust the lower wheel. After that it pretty much passed the dime test.


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## Nubsnstubs (Apr 7, 2020)

Have you looked at the back of the saw where the bottom wheel axle is mounted. If it wasn't mounted properly, it could be your problem. The mounting is aligned by 4 bolts. On my saw, the axle goes into a hole that centers the axle with the 4 bolts mentioned. Mine is offset towards the top of the hole and the blade is just about dead center of the slot. Yours might be offset to the left looking from the back of the saw.

Do this. Tension your blade. Look at post #12. There is a gap between the blade and the sheet metal cover just above the brush. Measure that gap. I'll measure mine, and see what the difference is. If there is about a 1/2" difference from yours and mine, it was more than likely done that way at the factory. If so, you now have a gripe with Rikon. If you did any adjusting on that axle, then you need to go back to it and straighten it out. That's all I've got. A picture if you want......... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Karl_TN (Apr 7, 2020)

Mike1950 said:


> The box steel frame is far superior to cast. Engineering works



Hmmm... Wouldn't it depend on how thinly made is the box steel frame on the Rikon? Jet was having flexing problems with the square tube design on their 18" bandsaw so they started making them with a triangular tube instead. I have the older square tube design and I'm not impressed with its rigidity.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 8, 2020)

From the top it’s 15mm or just short of 5/8”. From the side it’s 36mm or 1-7/16”.

measured 90degrees from the corner. 

Rikon did confirm that moving the 4 bolts on the wheel had no effect on the left and right placement of the blade. They said trunion, table and frame only had that effect. But if you could confirm the measurements that would be much appreciated. The 3 and 9 oclock affect the blade position on how close the blade is you (like close and far). The 6 and 12 affect the position of the blade on the wheel. 

I do have some further information. When install both of my resaw king blades. I do get drift. When loosing the trunion and table bolts I can only get the blade 89.14 degrees to the table. Doesn’t sound like a lot however the back edge of the blade catches the piece and ends up drifting significantly in towards the fence. Ruining the piece. The thicker and harder the piece that I’m resawing the worse it is. I have an extremely hard time resawing 3.5” pine which was just pallet lumber I jointed.


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## 4jo3 (Apr 8, 2020)

My lower wheel from the metal sides are 

3 o’clock position - 53mm or 2-3/32”
6 o’clock position - 48mm or 1-7/8” plus a skosh 
9 o’clock position - 11.5mm or 7/16” plus 2 skoshes 
12 o’clock position - 2.5mm or 1/16” plus 2 skoshes


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## 4jo3 (Apr 8, 2020)

2 skoshes is about a 1/64” for me. 

Forgot to mention my blade on the lower wheel rides slightly toward me (the front)


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## 4jo3 (Apr 8, 2020)

New table and upper trunnion on the way. Hopefully it fixes the issue. 

Unfortunately, I’m skeptical. I was first asked to ream the holes which I could probably see that working if there was enough steel there. Which Im doubtful there is. 

I can’t see it being the root cause. I have had the trunnion apart and there is minimal play in it everything looked normal. Nothing out alignment/bent. No wear. It’s also a PITA to re-install.

As I write this. I might have an ah ha moment. My bet is if I modify the lower trunnion and cut slots in it and use blue lock tite I should get it to align in the center. That solves one problem. The next would have to be the rotation of the table which is the main issue. Kinda need to think on that one. Maybe just opening/reaming those holes would do it.


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## Nubsnstubs (Apr 9, 2020)

Justin, finally was able to locate my saw. It's been buried in my turning room since November. The distance from the blade to the cover is just at 1/4". I also measured from miter slot to the frame. It's 6 1/2". If yours is the same, then your problem could be above the table. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Apr 11, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> I forgot to mention. Trunion bolts are tight. I removed the table and the trunion. I had to push max them out to the right. Both the table and the trunion.



Hi Justin,

In three of your photos (great photos, all of them, BTW) shot as viewed from beneath the table, there is a stop bolt/ stud that looks like (Part Number M8X45GB5783Z?) it is resting on the table angle stop block (Part Number JL21010014) bolted to the outer topside of the lower wheel cabinet assembly. I'm guessing that it's threaded into the cast iron table.

If the table and trunion are both positioned as far as they can slide to the right, shouldn't the stop block be to the left of the stop bolt centerline?

I've cropped your three photos that shows what I'm referring below.


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Apr 11, 2020)

Another question that occurs to me in regards to the flexed/ bent frame theory, and in particular, the photos of the yellow carpenters level against the outer edge, the drawing found in the manual (Frame Assembly, Page 28) shows the outer edge of the frame not being perpendicular to the base and as being tapered with the widest point at the base. The inward facing edge is shown perpendicular with the base. My question, how difficult is it to stretch a taught line along that inward face? I've shown the line in red below. I realize the hinges on both upper and lower cabinet doors will interfere, but maybe the line could be stretched with both doors open?


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## MikeyBOY (Apr 12, 2020)

There is something weird with your setup. See the attached photo from the manufacturer


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## 4jo3 (Apr 15, 2020)

I believe that has always been misaligned. But can’t recall. The bolt does thread into the table. And there is a stop screw that prevents the stop from aligning. 




V. Kelly Bellis said:


> Hi Justin,
> 
> In three of your photos (great photos, all of them, BTW) shot as viewed from beneath the table, there is a stop bolt/ stud that looks like (Part Number M8X45GB5783Z?) it is resting on the table angle stop block (Part Number JL21010014) bolted to the outer topside of the lower wheel cabinet assembly. I'm guessing that it's threaded into the cast iron table.
> 
> ...


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## 4jo3 (Apr 15, 2020)

Unfortunately, that piece has sheet metal over it because it is a hollow space where the blade goes. I did put a straight edge on the back thou. There appears to be a slight bow in the middle but nothing crazy that would affect that kind of movement. At least I think. It may have been engineered that way. 



V. Kelly Bellis said:


> Another question that occurs to me in regards to the flexed/ bent frame theory, and in particular, the photos of the yellow carpenters level against the outer edge, the drawing found in the manual (Frame Assembly, Page 28) shows the outer edge of the frame not being perpendicular to the base and as being tapered with the widest point at the base. The inward facing edge is shown perpendicular with the base. My question, how difficult is it to stretch a taught line along that inward face? I've shown the line in red below. I realize the hinges on both upper and lower cabinet doors will interfere, but maybe the line could be stretched with both doors open?
> View attachment 184560


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## 4jo3 (Apr 15, 2020)

It may not have been in position. As I have had the table on and off a lot. Below is a picture of how it sits.


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## Otterhound (Apr 15, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Unfortunately, that piece has sheet metal over it because it is a hollow space where the blade goes. I did put a straight edge on the back thou. There appears to be a slight bow in the middle but nothing crazy that would affect that kind of movement. At least I think. It may have been engineered that way.


Have you tried measuring the distance between the blade and the piece of sheet metal you mention at the top and bottom of that sheet metal piece . Being attached to the frame and the blade mounting independently of it , I am guessing that the blade and that sheet metal piece are supposed to be parallel .


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## skids929 (Apr 23, 2020)

bearing possibly?


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## 4jo3 (Apr 23, 2020)

Bearings were checked. I also asked that question to Rikon as well. I put my order in for a Powermatic PM1500. 

Now I’m hoping I can get this fixed to sell and recoop my loss. Saw is still under warranty but I had too many issues with it.

Reactions: Sincere 1


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Apr 23, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> I put my order in for a Powermatic PM1500



Wow! That's pretty exciting Justin; *CONGRATULATIONS!!!*

Reactions: Agree 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 25, 2020)

Anyone know the advantage of using a wider blade when resawing. I have a chose between 3/4” and 1” on the new saw. Looking at a resaw king.


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Apr 26, 2020)



Reactions: Informative 1


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Apr 26, 2020)

This is an informative article for you to check out Justin:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/premium-resaw-bandsaw-blades/
including the section discussing blade width;

_For resawing you want to use the widest blade your saw can handle. A wide blade resists bending as stock is pushed into it. This is commonly referred to as “beam strength.” Another advantage to wide blades is their ability to dissipate heat. The extra metal acts as a heat sink, drawing excess heat away from the teeth. Note: Most 14-in. bandsaws can take a 3/4-in. blade, but be careful! Most 3/4-in. blades are also too thick (.032-in. or greater) for your saw. So, it’s the thickness of the blade that limits how wide a blade you can put on a 14-in. saw. For the most part, you are limited to 1/2-in.-wide blades in order to stay within the .025-in. thickness limitation. Some notable exceptions are Olson’s All-Pro (AP77105) and Grizzly’s Carbide Embedded blade, which are 5/8-in. wide. The Timber Wolf AS-S series is 3/4-in. wide but only .025-in. thick. _

Reactions: Informative 3


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## Otterhound (Apr 26, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Anyone know the advantage of using a wider blade when resawing. I have a chose between 3/4” and 1” on the new saw. Looking at a resaw king.


Stability and heat dissipation . I use a 1" Lennox Woodmaster CT . You may want to give one of these a try at some point . For myself , bigger is better when choosing a resaw blade . That Powermatic should be a bear .


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## 4jo3 (Apr 26, 2020)

Do you have the 1.3 or 2 tpi? 



Otterhound said:


> Stability and heat dissipation . I use a 1" Lennox Woodmaster CT . You may want to give one of these a try at some point . For myself , bigger is better when choosing a resaw blade . That Powermatic should be a bear .


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## Otterhound (Apr 26, 2020)

I use the 1.3 . I've never tried the 2 so I can't comment on it . I find the 1.3 works fine . Once the blade begins to dull , it will start to wander . At that point , there is no way to dial it out . They are still sharp for other uses , but not for resawing . Try to keep in mind that I am resawing 6" and 9" stock at 3/16" in thickness . Very little margin for error . In time , a feel for the feed rate shows itself . I am using a Grizzly G0513X2 and have good results , although more power would be nice . I haven't tried , but I think I could resaw without blade guides as long as the blade is up to par . I do use the Euro style ceramic guides when I resaw . Square everything up and make some sawdust . One last thing . I have returned 1 blade because of a poorly aligned weld and 1 for improperly set teeth/carbides . Both times , I received a replacement at no cost . The first was through an internet supplier and the second was sourced locally . My local source sells them for less even when you include sales tax . You may find a local source like that if you look . I get mine through a local Mennonite sharpening service .

Reactions: Informative 1


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## 4jo3 (Apr 26, 2020)

Resaw kings are on sale. I had really good luck. I did 6” lignum vitae on my rikon came out super smooth. One pass on the jointer and it was flat. The saw struggled a bit but came out smooth. I might have been testing the saw too :). I only needed 3”. I think I will give the Lenox a try out as well. Can never have enough blades. I always like to keep one extremely sharp. Resawing rosewoods has a bit of a pucker factor with dull blades.


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## Otterhound (Apr 26, 2020)

I would never try Rosewood with a possibly dull blade , let alone Lignum Vitae . I take about .010 with my jointer . When I resaw for sides and backs , they are already on the thin side . Thickness sander finishes the job . I always try to keep 1 new blade around just as a starter blade since I can get new ones fairly quickly and I try to plan ahead when I am doing more than just a few .


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## 4jo3 (Apr 26, 2020)

Lignum tended to gum up my drum sander. Plus the cut was super nice off the helical head I have. A lot nicer that a bunch of scratches from the drum sander. When resawing my rosewoods. I only pass them through my drum sander. I have my jointer to take around .012.


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## 4jo3 (Jun 5, 2020)

Finally arrived

Reactions: Like 2 | Way Cool 2


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## Eric Rorabaugh (Jun 5, 2020)

Dang. I've been waiting for it and they sent it to the wrong address. Nice saw

Reactions: Funny 2 | Way Cool 1


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## V. Kelly Bellis (Jun 6, 2020)

That's fantastic Justin! Congratulations!!! You must be very happy.

Be careful lifting it off the crate's base. I'll post more on how I handled dealing with my new 400-lb saw in a separate thread.


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## 4jo3 (Jun 6, 2020)

I got it off all ready. Took me a long time. It’s on a rockler off-road mobile base too


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## 4jo3 (Jun 10, 2020)

Bindings and headstock veneers cut. Got six headstock pieces. 1.9mm thick. Still need to pass it through the thickness sander. But not bad for a piece that was 19mm thick. Got 11 usable bindings And some small scraps from a 15x20mm blank. 

The real test will be when I resaw my rosewood for guitar blanks. I will hopefully get to it this weekend

Reactions: Way Cool 3


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## Otterhound (Jun 11, 2020)

4jo3 said:


> Bindings and headstock veneers cut. Got six headstock pieces. 1.9mm thick. Still need to pass it through the thickness sander. But not bad for a piece that was 19mm thick. Got 11 usable bindings And some small scraps from a 15x20mm blank.
> 
> The real test will be when I resaw my rosewood for guitar blanks. I will hopefully get to it this weekend
> 
> View attachment 188628


I have no doubt that it is me , but this wood looks to be very flatsawn .


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## 4jo3 (Jun 11, 2020)

The walnut is flatsawn. It’s still a bit thick to attach to the back of the headstock. It will be going on a quartersawn piece of mahogany.


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