# Turning pics art



## Jonkou (Mar 17, 2021)

Taking pics of some new turned pieces and discovered a potentially different way (for me) to enjoy the “art” of woodturning. Going to get them blown up and if they maintain clarity frame and adorn the studio walls with them. These are the most interesting so far, screen savers too. Sensei guidance is appreciated.

Reactions: Like 3 | EyeCandy! 4 | Way Cool 6 | Creative 2


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## Arn213 (Mar 17, 2021)

That is a great idea to be “up and personal” and to see the details. Maintaining clarity- tripod and a remote shutter release. Use a camera hood or a polarizing filter to reduce/control glare. Set up camera to shoot at a higher resolution. Invest on a macro filter for close up detail. Overhead lighting conditions should be considered versus fluorescent, incandescent or halogen. I prefer halogen (it is an incandescent with higher temperature) as they are at 5,000 degrees kelvin and closest to natural daylight. YMMV.

I use to work in a frame shop. Use acid free frame mats, etc. Non glare glass (optional). Simple gallery frames so the focus goes into the photo and not the frame.

Somehow college art class paid off

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## JR Parks (Mar 17, 2021)

@Jonkou 
nice pics John. What are the woods? Guessing Oak, ?, and walnut.


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## phinds (Mar 17, 2021)

Yeah, here's my favorite ... end grain closeup of kempas

Reactions: Like 4 | Way Cool 3


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## Jonkou (Mar 17, 2021)

Arn213 said:


> That is a great idea to be “up and personal” and to see the details. Maintaining clarity- tripod and a remote shutter release. Use a camera hood or a polarizing filter to reduce/control glare. Set up camera to shoot at a higher resolution. Invest on a macro filter for close up detail. Overhead lighting conditions should be considered versus fluorescent, incandescent or halogen. I prefer halogen (it is an incandescent with higher temperature) as they are at 5,000 degrees kelvin and closest to natural daylight. YMMV.
> 
> I use to work in a frame shop. Use acid free frame mats, etc. Non glare glass (optional). Simple gallery frames so the focus goes into the photo and not the frame.
> 
> Somehow college art class paid off


Thanks for your input Arn. Have done high end framing so have that locked on if the enlarged pics are worthy. I‘m low tech and know little when it comes to photography, have a tripod, can duct tape my truck phone holder to it, have the newest iPhone for a camera. Will set up a backdrop outside using natural sunlight vs in the studio and experiment. Option two is call the photographer the League I belong to uses and pay for his services, have used him for promo shoots and he’s very reasonable.

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## Jonkou (Mar 17, 2021)

JR Parks said:


> @Jonkou
> nice pics John. What are the woods? Guessing Oak, ?, and walnut.


Thanks Jim, NH White oak, Arg lignum vitae and NH Amer black walnut.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 6


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## Jonkou (Mar 17, 2021)

phinds said:


> Yeah, here's my favorite ... end grain closeup of kempasView attachment 205415


Familiar with Hobbit House as a reference. What process do you use for taking them Paul?


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## phinds (Mar 17, 2021)

Jonkou said:


> Familiar with Hobbit House as a reference. What process do you use for taking them Paul?


Macro option on a Canon SX 40 HS, about 1.2" from lens to wood, makes it about 12X for my end grain shots. Pic shown is blown up QUITE a bit.

Yours are gorgeous.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## trc65 (Mar 17, 2021)

Just a couple things to add, if you have the option with your phone, take pics with highest f-stop possible, take several shots of each, and a little post processing can do wonders for photos that aren't quite perfect.

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2


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## Mike Hill (Mar 18, 2021)

Now, I have to clarify, that my phone is a 7 so, the newer phones may be better. But before I spent time and money to enlarge, I'd ditch the phone camera and find someone with a better "camera". I've tried to make a number of phone pictures presentable as enlargements, but have not been successful. And that may be the operator and not the photo. But not enough data information, lots of distortion because of the "lenses", contrast sucks, grainy, and the inevitable scratches on the "lenses" are among problems encountered. Now the newer phones may be totally different. But I doubt it, they are made and tweaked for tiktok, instagram, selfies, and such - not enlargements.

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## barry richardson (Mar 18, 2021)

Those are nice pics John, I've always been fascinated with the grain of various wood as well, great idea enlarging them. I use this close-up of white oak on my facebook page as wallpaper...

Reactions: Like 2 | EyeCandy! 1 | Way Cool 4


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## Arn213 (Mar 18, 2021)

Just to add to post #2 and elaborate more on it and take steps further. Ideally you would want to take your photographs to a professional photographer or a professional photo lab that has professional printing equipment to get prints. Depending how much you are in love with your photo’s and how much you want to spend, they do offer “archival” photo paper. If it matters to you, “archival” photo paper last for a long time and keep their brilliance- resist fading/color fastness.

As far as luster- choose matte over high gloss. Matte finish is what professionals and gallery tend to use as they minimize light reflection when displayed with focal lighting. Matte finish is my personal choice having photographed and mounted gallery photographs. Always ask for a slight white border when you get prints so you have some slight slack (breathing room) when you mount it/frame it with a mat board.

Mat boards- don’t skim on this material detail (neutral ph). Color is priority when choosing the proper and correct one- remember that the main focus is on the photographs and not on the mat frame! Pay attention to the thickness as some are single and double ply- this is a preference. Important detail is you should try to get the window opening on the matting with a beveled edge- creates no shadows. Pay attention to available standard size with the open window. If you don’t, it will cost you because you have to get custom size or you can cut your own. You also have to pay attention to side edge coloration- some colors are all the way through and some are not. If I pick a black mat, I usually go to the solid core through and through as I don’t want to put attention to another color on the side edge. White on white matting, solid core is available too. Matting you either have to go neutral (shades of grays is an option, but you have to keep in mind there are cool grays and warm grays) or go with a complimentary color for the matting. Complimentary color for example- if your photo’s are orange dominant, you want to use a “complimentary or split split complimentary color” like a dark blue matting. Basic principles of color which is cool color recedes (blue in this example) and warm color rises (orange in this example).

Color photographs are good, but black and whites are also as stunningly as good especially when taking close up details. That is a personal preference and depends though if you want to convey a sense of color in your studio or a sense of neutrality/minimalism in your studio walls.

Addendum: there are a lot more info. in the process about not getting finger prints on the photograph or how to get rid of particles that gets in the photo between the glass and the matting, how do you seal the back, etc.

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## Jonkou (Mar 18, 2021)

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge, bits of wisdom and helping this creative idea come together. After reconsideration, I’ll stick with what I know and leave the technical stuff to folks like you pros. Now I just gotta sell the bowl above to pay for it... wow, talk about a good deal... will follow up as it comes together.



> Hi John, Fairly simple: I charge $100 an hour and for work like yours, I can usually shoot up to 20 pieces in an hour. I also charge $40 for image processing, in Photoshop, to clean up the shots and get them ready for you for any show, gallery, web site or whatever you need. I have backgrounds and all the technical stuff. I can provide your images on Drop Box, by email, on flash drives or CDs - they can be in any format: JPEG, TIF, RAW - again, whatever you need. Usually, I shoot in JPEG, since most of you need images for the web and occasionally prints. Let me know if this helps and if you need more information. Talk to you later, Charley

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