# Kitchen Hutch Build



## Sprung (Jan 3, 2019)

Ok, it looks like I'm taking enough photos as I go along to warrant doing a classroom thread as I progress on this build.

Building a kitchen hutch. For those that haven't seen my posts on it in the What did you do in your shop today? thread, I'll get you up to speed.

Our kitchen is small and lacking in both counter and storage space. For a while now my wife and I have been talking about building a hutch to serve as our coffee bar. A place to store all of our coffee making things (we're kinda serious about coffee around here...) as well as a place to store liquor and other like items - a place where we can make coffee, tea, drinks, etc that would free up cupboard and counter space elsewhere in the kitchen. I've got what I think are some pretty neat ideas for this build and I'll show them off as the build progresses.

Design is my own. I like doing my own design work. And even if I follow plans on something I build, I like to find some way to tweak the plans and make it my own.



 

While much of it will be painted with milk paint, there are parts where the wood will be finished with a clear finish. Either way, even for painted pieces I wanted to use a hardwood for the sake of durability. Besides, I got this maple for about 35 cents a board foot - so it really is the most cost effective wood to use for this build. This is maple that was cut down and turned into lumber about an hour away from where we live. I've been really liking this maple. Oh, and most of this in this stack is quartersawn too.



 

Through the planer.



 

Since then I cut everything to rough length, jointed the edge, and ripped pieces to the various widths needed.

I've got four pieces I needed that were wider than the material I had pulled from the shed, so I did some glue ups. Main counter level top:



 

A couple side panels for the upper portion, plus the very top piece:
(I could really use some more clamps. My favorite clamps are these aluminum bar clamps, made in Dubuque, Iowa by Dubuque Clamp Works.)


 

Tonight I cut all the other pieces to length.

I will be spending most of the day tomorrow in the shop, so tomorrow it'll be time to pull out the router table to cut some grooves for inset panels, then some sanding, then I will start doing some assembly work.

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## woodtickgreg (Jan 4, 2019)

Nothing like local cut maple, very cool Matt.

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## Tony (Jan 4, 2019)




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## El Guapo (Jan 4, 2019)




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## CWS (Jan 4, 2019)

Looks like you are off to a good start.

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## El Guapo (Jan 4, 2019)

Wife doesn't understand why I ask for clamps every year for Christmas.

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## Sprung (Jan 4, 2019)

El Guapo said:


> Wife doesn't understand why I ask for clamps every year for Christmas.



My wife understands it. But that doesn't mean she's had any clamps for me under the tree - even though she knows which ones I like!

Sounds like you need to get your wife into the shop with you. Mine will help me here and there, as I need it. I'll discuss projects with her. And I make sure to make stuff for her. Those things have proven to go a long ways with more understanding of what tools I need, why I'm wanting to buy certain things, realizing that the shop isn't just a pit to burn money in, etc.

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## Sprung (Jan 4, 2019)

Cut grooves for panels on the router table. Then cut the detail on the feet. Cut with the bandsaw and cleaned up with a block plane. Really like this Emmerich block plane I got in trade from @FranklinWorkshops 



 

Installing panels, I needed a little persuasion. Mallet from @Schroedc from the last mallet swap came out to play.



 

One side done.



 

Progress thus far. Base is coming together nicely. Hope to have a little more time in the shop tonight to keep working on this.

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## El Guapo (Jan 4, 2019)

Loving the build, brother!

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## El Guapo (Jan 4, 2019)

If I could make one suggestion, it might look better with doors...

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## Sprung (Jan 4, 2019)

El Guapo said:


> If I could make one suggestion, it might look better with doors...



It's coming! There will be a door on the left side and four drawers on the right. Behind the door will be two pull out shelves on full extension drawer slides.

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## Sprung (Jan 4, 2019)

Went out after dinner and did a little more, but calling it a day now. Put in a vertical divider inside in the middle. This will give a place to mount drawer slides to for the drawers on one side and pull out shelves on the other side.

I got to use my new saw for the first time tonight - a Dozuki Z saw. I used one of these in the class I took in September. So nice to cut with. Needed to notch a couple corners on the internal divider and this was the quickest and easiest way to go about that.

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## TimR (Jan 4, 2019)

Enjoying the build

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## woodtickgreg (Jan 5, 2019)

I have a couple of saws like that, they're great. Looking good Matt.

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## barry richardson (Jan 5, 2019)

Looking good Matt! Don't ya just love the pocket hole jig? They make carcass assembly a breeze...

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## woodtickgreg (Jan 5, 2019)

barry richardson said:


> Looking good Matt! Don't ya just love the pocket hole jig? They make carcass assembly a breeze...


I gotta get me one of those.

Reactions: Agree 2


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## El Guapo (Jan 5, 2019)

woodtickgreg said:


> I gotta get me one of those.


I recommend the K3 and the K5. Excellent way to make short work of building carcasses.

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## El Guapo (Jan 5, 2019)

I actually use my K3 more than I use my K5, but I get better results with my K5.

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## barry richardson (Jan 5, 2019)

El Guapo said:


> I actually use my K3 more than I use my K5, but I get better results with my K5.


Then you gotta try K-9, it will be your best friend

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## Sprung (Jan 5, 2019)

@El Guapo - you mean the R3?

I have both the R3 and K5. Bought the R3 probably 6 or 7 years ago. Got the K5 last year. I prefer the K5, but the R3 is great for those instances where you can't put the object into the jig or the piece is too large and cumbersome to put in the jig.

They certainly do make doing casework easier. But on my next big builds - a complete bedroom set which I hope to start the first piece of later this year - I've already decided I'm going to challenge myself to not use any pocket screws and use it as an opportunity to build up some skills and learn more traditional joinery.

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## sprucegum (Jan 5, 2019)

Sprung said:


> @El Guapo - you mean the R3?
> 
> I have both the R3 and K5. Bought the R3 probably 6 or 7 years ago. Got the K5 last year. I prefer the K5, but the R3 is great for those instances where you can't put the object into the jig or the piece is too large and cumbersome to put in the jig.
> 
> They certainly do make doing casework easier. But on my next big builds - a complete bedroom set which I hope to start the first piece of later this year - I've already decided I'm going to challenge myself to not use any pocket screws and use it as an opportunity to build up some skills and learn more traditional joinery.


When I do the cabinets for the new house I think that I will build the base cabinet carcasses in place. I plan to use my pocket hole jig to install the dividers. I love it for face frames also.

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## El Guapo (Jan 5, 2019)

Ah, yes, ‘tis the R3, not the K3. Maybe I’ll invent the K3 and become mega rich! You guys are invited out on the yaught.

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## Sprung (Jan 5, 2019)

Didn't get much done today - had to run to Menards to get a few things; took the oldest along (Menards is his favorite store) and took him out to lunch. (That's an 80 mile round trip from our house, so not a there and back in 30 minutes kind of thing.)

I changed how I was going to install the back on this, so I had to cut a rabbet on the back after the fact. A rabbeting bit is one of the things I picked up at Menards. Got that routed out, then cleaned up the corners with a chisel.



 

After that, it was time to shut down the shop. Have a busy week with family things and work, so it most likely won't be until next Friday when I get back in the shop. But, here's where it currently stands. When I get back out there next, I'll have gotten drawer slides and will then get to work on the door and drawers. And then the upper portion. I've had a lot of extra time this past week, so getting to this point progressed fairly quickly. Progress from here on out will likely be slower.



 

Turned the heat off in the shop. Shut stuff down. Sticker stacked all my cut pieces to help prevent any chance of warping. Brought anything liquid that could freeze into the house. Put the machines to bed. Literally. I have a couple machines where, if the temperature swings upwards when it's cold, condensation becomes a rust creating issue. I cover the jointer with cardboard and a blanket and my Unisaw with a blanket. In case of temperature swings or for when I turn the heat back on out there, this will help keep condensation off these surfaces and help prevent rust. Both got a good wipe down with paste wax before being put to bed.

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## woodtickgreg (Jan 5, 2019)

K5 is the one I've been looking at.


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## Tony (Jan 5, 2019)

I've still got the original Kreg with the face clamp, haven't pulled the trigger on an upgrade. I do plan to build new vanities in our bathrooms out of mesquite in the future, that will be the time I think.

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## Wilson's Woodworking (Jan 11, 2019)

I don't see the walnut for the drawer fronts or the door frames. I have a couple of boards that would dress it up nice.
Load up a little of that maple and come on down for a trade. 
Great build so far.

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## Sprung (Jan 11, 2019)

Wilson's Woodworking said:


> I don't see the walnut for the drawer fronts or the door frames. I have a couple of boards that would dress it up nice.
> Load up a little of that maple and come on down for a trade.
> Great build so far.



That would be a waste of walnut! Drawer fronts will be painted.

But, I could honestly use some walnut. Especially 4/4 stock. I have a good stash of 6/4 and 8/4 walnut, but hardly any 4/4!


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## Sprung (Jan 11, 2019)

Only one picture for today, but I did more than the one picture shows. Today I put in some pieces for the drawer slides to mount on. And some other pieces that will be used to help attach the top. Picture shows a couple holes I put in the top - will show later on what those holes are for. Filled in a few spots that needed it with some thinned epoxy.

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## El Guapo (Jan 12, 2019)

Nice preview of what it will look like with some finish on the top! Looking good, buddy!

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## Sprung (Jan 12, 2019)

Doesn't look like I got much done in the pic, but there was lots of sanding done today...

Did lots of sanding. Installed the back. Now the base cabinet is ready to move on to finishing. Going to sit for several more days before I can get back in the shop, unless I can sneak away a few minutes here and there to start applying finish. Finishing schedule for the base unit will be: 1 coat of shellac, 3 to 4 coats of milk paint, a coat of danish oil, buffed out with paste wax.



 

@Bean_counter and @Tony will probably try to kill me for using some walnut for the drawer slide mounts. But the two pieces I cut up were the perfect sized pieces for what I needed, with nothing else in my shop that would fit the bill. Besides, it was a couple small/short 8/4 drops that I got in some "scrap" from the local cabinet maker, so I didn't have any money into it either.

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## Bean_counter (Jan 12, 2019)

Sprung said:


> Doesn't look like I got much done in the pic, but there was lots of sanding done today...
> 
> Did lots of sanding. Installed the back. Now the base cabinet is ready to move on to finishing. Going to sit for several more days before I can get back in the shop, unless I can sneak away a few minutes here and there to start applying finish. Finishing schedule for the base unit will be: 1 coat of shellac, 3 to 4 coats of milk paint, a coat of danish oil, buffed out with paste wax.
> 
> ...




You’re dead to me Sprunger

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## sprucegum (Jan 13, 2019)

Looking good . I often use scrap of Nice wood for utility purposes . Beats letting it sit in a corner until you forget about it.

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## rocky1 (Jan 13, 2019)

Think of the intrinsic value somewhere down the road. Someone will look at that hutch and think it must have been built for royalty using such fine lumber for such mundane purposes.

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## Sprung (Jan 31, 2019)

Ok, overdue for an update. Been getting stuff done on this.

Cut pieces for drawers. Used 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood - my first time using this stuff and it was worth paying for it. All this got various cuts with the dado stack to be able to put the drawer boxes together.





Deepest drawer (deep enough to stand up liquor bottles in - drawer will have a lock to keep children out of it) in clamps.





Stack of drawer boxes.





Started working on the drawer fronts and the door. Frame pieces.





Couple of drawer fronts completed.





Side panel glue ups for the upper portion of the hutch.





And tonight @Blueglass "joined" me in the shop as I made use of the mallet I got from him in the last mallet swap.

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## rocky1 (Jan 31, 2019)

You had me worried there for a second, I thought Les had lost his mind and traveled north during the deep freeze!

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## Sprung (Feb 1, 2019)

And tonight my wife helped me give the base portion its first coat of paint. We're using milk paint. If you've never used milk paint before, the first couple coats look like crud and make you question your choice in finishes. But, stick with it and you'll find it looking great in the end. It looks awful now, but it'll get better. For this piece I'm using Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint. Though I do prefer the milk paint from Old Fashioned Milk Paint better. But Miss Mustard Seed had a nice color (that I've worked with on another piece, so we know how it'll look finished) that fit what we were looking for as to a color for the hutch.

This is only the first color of milk paint we're applying. I start with sealing the wood with dewaxed shellac. Then it got one coat of this linen colored milk paint, which is the base color we chose. We chose to use a different color for a base coat because, as the piece wears from use, this color will start to show through in the wear areas for a nice patina/accent over time. We are not going to be artificially wearing it to reveal the first color, like many do, as we would rather it gain credible patina with use over time. This will be followed with two to three coats of what will be close to a navy blue milk paint. Number of coats of that will be determined on how it's looking after two coats. After painting with the desired number of coats, I'll seal it with something else. I usually apply a good coat of Watco Danish Oil in natural and then a coat of paste wax over that. I'm thinking of trying something different this time around that I can apply in the house (no VOCs) and won't take 2 weeks for the awful smell to go away. I'll detail that as I get along more in the finishing realm of this piece.



 

And, yes, that is on our dining table, which will eventually be replaced with a table made to match this hutch - milk painted legs and apron and clear finished maple top. No VOCs, the garage being too cold to work in, and my wife not wanting to help me haul this up out of the basement if I were to haul it down there for finishing, added up to my wife giving the ok to use the dining table, with the promise that I'll have this painted and off the table by dinner on Saturday. Totally doable, even with us being gone for much of the day tomorrow.

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## Nature Man (Feb 1, 2019)

Great progress! Very helpful details! I'm really interested in how you are finishing this hutch with milk paint. Chuck

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## Sprung (Feb 1, 2019)

Nature Man said:


> Great progress! Very helpful details! I'm really interested in how you are finishing this hutch with milk paint. Chuck



Thanks, Chuck. Milk paint is easy to apply. And don't be scared of it looking like crap in the process. It doesn't look nice until the end. But my wife and I like the richness of color it gives. It's not a uniform color like you'd get from a can of latex paint - it has some variation to it when you really examine it. I have learned to always do a seal coat of shellac before I start painting with milk paint. Especially if you're using dissimilar materials, like different species of wood or wood and plywood. It also seals knots and any plugs/patches on plywood. Sealing it with shellac allows the paint to be much more even and produce a better finish. Then, after your coats of milk paint, an oil finish makes the color pop and helps protect it.

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## Sprung (Feb 1, 2019)

This is the first coat of the top color, partially dry. Yup, looks like crud right now. Once dry, milk paint will look chalky. But as I mentioned in the last post, oil will really bring it to life.

Also, forgot to mention that between coats I give it a rub down with brown paper grocery bag - helps smooth out the nibs and grit a little and will yield a smoother final finish.

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## woodtickgreg (Feb 1, 2019)

I'm enjoying this.

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## Sprung (Feb 2, 2019)

Assembled the upper portion today. No pics of that as I was working on that in the basement workshop, where it's a small enough space that I couldn't step back far enough to get a picture of even half of it.

But I did get this pic - had to clean out the corners for a stopped rabbet on the top, for where the backer panel will sit in.



 

Got the garage warmed back up during today so that tonight I could start applying finish to the parts that will be clear finished. The top, the inside of the upper cabinet, and the shelves will all be clear finished. The lower case, door, drawer fronts, and the outer portion of the upper cabinet will be milk paint.

Finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.



 

And the underside of the counter top. Yeah, it'll look good - the crotch feather is more pronounced on what will be the top. The knots have a little more figure on the underside, but they were more sound/solid on what will be the top side, hence the orientation of that portion.

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## rocky1 (Feb 2, 2019)

SO uhmmm... How come is the one side 2 inches longer than the other and the shelf centered in both making it like, not real square?


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## Sprung (Feb 2, 2019)

rocky1 said:


> SO uhmmm... How come is the one side 2 inches longer than the other and the shelf centered in both making it like, not real square?



Perspective. 

Everything is square, centered, in line, etc.


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## rocky1 (Feb 3, 2019)

I don't know... It looks kinda crooked if you turn it the other way too! You might better check your measurements again.

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## Sprung (Feb 3, 2019)



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## Sprung (Feb 4, 2019)

As far as a clear finish goes, IMO it's hard to beat General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. Such an easy finish to apply - hard to screw up.

My method of applying Arm-R-Seal is as follows:
Wipe down with denatured alcohol or thinner of your choice to ensure all dust and contaminants are off the piece.
Wipe on. Then right after that lightly wipe the full length of the piece with the same piece of cloth or towel you used to apply the finish.
First coat gets 3 or 4 hours to dry before the next coat. Subsequent coats get two hours.
Before applying the next coat, lightly sand with 600 grit sandpaper - you're not so much sanding as you are removing any sort of nibs in the previous coat. Then wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove dust from sanding - rag doesn't need to be heavily soaked, just dampened enough to be able to collect the dust.
Apply coats 2 and 3, repeating the sanding/wipe down steps between coats.
After the third coat is dry, give it another very light sanding with either 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper and wipe down with denatured alcohol. Then just give it a quick, but gentle wipe with a cloth just lightly dampened with the Arm-R-Seal. You're basically just filling in any sanding scratches with the thinnest of coats. This coat will dry very fast, helping to not collect dust.
If you have any dust nibs after it's all dry, rub/buff it lightly with a piece torn out of a brown paper grocery bag or some 0000 steel wool - I wait at least a few days after the final coat before doing this step. This gives a very smooth finish that just feels great, protects the wood well, but also isn't a thick plastic feeling finishing like a brush on poly. Can buff in some paste wax after this, if desired.

First coat went on the top side of the countertop piece this morning. I'll be sneaking out to the shop for a few minutes every few hours today to put the next coats on.

The two pieces I glued up for the countertop certainly have a lot going for them. Crotch, curl, heartwood/sapwood, spalt. These were the two most figured sections of the boards I pulled from my stack of maple for this project.

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## Sprung (Feb 4, 2019)

Forgot to add - I usually sand to either 180 or, more often, 220 prior to finishing.

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## Sprung (Feb 5, 2019)

Finishing continues whenever I can find a few minutes here and there to work on it. After finishing the one side of the back panel and the inside of the hutch, I attached the back.

@rocky1 - Does this look square now? 



 

A little pop of figure on the inside.



 

Masked off where I had already finished with the Arm-R-Seal and applied a coat of shellac.



 

After that was dry on went a coat of white milk paint. Three coats of the same navy blue as the base will follow - hope to get at least a couple of those coats on tomorrow.

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## rocky1 (Feb 5, 2019)

I showed that picture to my father the other day, he said... "What in the... That one side is 2" longer than the other!" 

I'll be sure to show him the one above that looks almost square.

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## rocky1 (Feb 6, 2019)

He laughed! Said it looked much better!!

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## Sprung (Feb 7, 2019)

Finishing continues. Tonight got the last coat of milk paint on the base portion. It was lightly sanded with 180 grit to knock down any rough spots prior to the last coat. Paint is dry in this picture. Looking a lot better than in the beginning. This will look real nice once oiled.



 

And first coat of the blue went on the upper portion, as well as the drawers fronts and door.



 



 

While I've been working on this, I've also been tasked with reupholstering our kitchen chairs. Have two of the four done so far.

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## Sprung (Feb 7, 2019)

This evening got the other two coats of blue on the upper.



 

And moved the base cabinet back out to the garage. Started installing drawer slides. No picture of that.

Tomorrow I hope to get the drawer boxes sanded and a coat of shellac brushed on to them and start installing more hardware and wiring into the base cabinet.

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## Sprung (Feb 8, 2019)

Today was a day of progress.

Got drawer slides installed. Full extension, soft close. Bought a pack of 10 sets for about $80 off Amazon - way cheaper than buying 5 individual sets and I still have 5 sets for future projects.



 

Installation was made very easy by a quick set of jigs I put together that let me just set the jig in place and then drill holes for the screws.



 

Also started on the wiring - I'll give more details on that later. No pics of that.

And the finishing has been completed.

After final coat of milk paint:



 

To make the color pop on the milk paint and give it some more protection, I use an oil based finish. Until now I've always used a coat or two of Watco Danish Oil in natural. Downside of that is it takes a couple weeks for it to finish curing/offgassing and for the smell to go away. Wanting an oil finish that would allow me to bring this in the house and get it set up and in use sooner, I decided to try hemp oil. Test piece worked out well, so today on it went.



 

And what it looks like after oil. I wiped it on liberally, let it sit for 20ish minutes, then wiped any excess off. I'll see what it looks like in a day or two and decide if it needs a second application of oil, but so far it's still looking good a few hours later.

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## Gdurfey (Feb 8, 2019)

You said the milk paint would change, you weren’t kidding. Thanks so much for the time posting all the info and pictures! Can’t wait to show my wife.


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## Sprung (Feb 8, 2019)

Gdurfey said:


> You said the milk paint would change, you weren’t kidding. Thanks so much for the time posting all the info and pictures! Can’t wait to show my wife.



You're welcome! It's a finish that you have to learn a process and trust the process and carry that process through until completion because throughout most of the process it's just going to not look so great. But a little oil at the end changes everything. My wife and I both prefer the way a piece painted with milk paint looks and feels compared to a piece painted with latex paint.

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## Sprung (Feb 9, 2019)

Well, I was on pace to have this done and set up in our kitchen by tomorrow evening. But when I tested the wiring for the lighting it all shorted out and blew out both the power supply and the switch. Wiring diagram for the connectors I purchased was wrong... New power supply and switch ordered, to arrive sometime this next week.

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## sprucegum (Feb 9, 2019)

Sprung said:


> Well, I was on pace to have this done and set up in our kitchen by tomorrow evening. But when I tested the wiring for the lighting it all shorted out and blew out both the power supply and the switch. Wiring diagram for the connectors I purchased was wrong... New power supply and switch ordered, to arrive sometime this next week.


I hate when that happens

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## Sprung (Feb 9, 2019)

Since I can't do any more on it until electrical stuffs arrives, I moved it into the house (where I'll be able to do final assembly) so I can work on something else in the garage. It's not all put together yet, and is no longer together like this since I don't want the upper to fall on a kid, but I couldn't resist setting the upper in place to get a first look at it all together. Poor lighting in this area makes it look too dark - there's better lighting where it'll be set up in the kitchen/dining area.

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## DKMD (Feb 9, 2019)

Looking good, Matt! I love the look and feel of milk paint, and I like that design as well.

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## Sprung (Nov 18, 2019)

Well, it has taken me far too long to get back to this and get it finished. But I'm at a point right now where I absolutely had to get it finished this week. So yesterday the drawers got re-fit - a few of them weren't working so well after I installed them a while ago. Door was installed. Drawer fronts installed. Top attached. Last bit of wiring done.

And it's a wrap! There's a few flaws, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I may build a new door for it at some point - in the time between building the door and installing it, this one developed a twist and the lower right corner sticks out about 3/16". But I am overall quite happy with how it turned out. I may try to get some better pics tomorrow, when we'll get some sunlight through the kitchen windows.

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## rocky1 (Nov 19, 2019)

You could add a good magnetic latch in the bottom corner, it'll pull the door in that far, and may over time straighten it.

Very nice piece,

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## T. Ben (Nov 19, 2019)

That looks great Matt.

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## barry richardson (Nov 19, 2019)

Great work Matt, thanks for the ride-along... You have inspired me to take on a flat work project, just haven't decided what yet

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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