# Bowl blank tutorial needed



## kweinert (Nov 8, 2014)

OK, so I know I'm doing something wrong here, I'm just not exactly clear on what it is. Or what they are, potentially more than one thing not working.

I've been trying to learn how to create bowl blanks from felled trees. I'm not doing the felling, just finding ones that have been recently felled and taking advantage of it.

What I've been trying to do is to cut the logs into pieces that are a bit longer than they are in diameter, then splitting the log (with chainsaw) pretty much down the middle. The problem comes when I try to cut the blanks out.

First off, I have a 14" bandsaw with a 93 1/2" blade. I'm using a 4 TPI blade. One of the issues I have is that I end up pulling the blade off the wheels every 3 or 4 blanks. I'm fairly certain I have the tension correct, I think it might be related to the uneven surface and the little bit of rocking when I'm trying to cut. 

I guess I'd like to know how you flatten the back - or do you? If not, how do you cut the circle?

Right now I'm just processing for myself because I'd be embarrassed to sell these as they look now. Sure, at some point it'd be nice to be able to sell/trade blanks with stuff I can find around here, but I want them to look like I have an idea of what I'm doing first.

If anyone has been processing round bowl blanks I'd really appreciate some advice or pointers. So far what I've found doesn't really deal with the cutting of the blanks.

Thanks.


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## JR Custom Calls (Nov 8, 2014)

How are you splitting them down the middle? From the end grain, or from the bark? Just making sure, as it's so much easier to 'noodle' by cutting the length of the log section down through the middle than it is to try and cut across the grain. 

How wide is your blade on your BS? The wider the blade, the less of a curve you can cut. I have found that even a 1/2" blade makes it very hard to cut a half decent circle, but no more than I cut them, I haven't purchased a 1/4" blade yet. 

How are you pulling the blade off? Are you getting it stuck in the wood and having to pull the piece back out? Are you cutting reliefs in the wood if you're using a somewhat thick blade? 


I'm by far no expert on this, just some things I've found processing my own turning blanks.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## DKMD (Nov 8, 2014)

When you lay the log on its side for splitting, cut a parallel flat on each side before cutting out the pith... That'll give you a flat surface to set on the bandsaw. Alternatively, you can lay the blanks bark side down on the bandsaw table and use a round cardboard template to trace your rounds on the saw.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Tom Smart (Nov 8, 2014)

I found this simple jig handy to help cut bowl blanks on the bandsaw. Drill a hole in the center of the blank to accept the small pin and set the pin the the hole on the board based on the size you want. Then spin the blank. Be sure to put a piece of scrap on the back that fits into your mitre slot. And as noted by Jonathon, use a narrower blade for cutting circles.

Reactions: Thank You! 1 | Creative 1


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## Schroedc (Nov 8, 2014)

Depending on how wide the blanks are I've taken a plane or draw knife and flattened the cut side to reduce the rocking, I've even tacked on some shims to the edges to keep it from rocking as I turn the blank on the saw. But I agree with everyone else, Go to a 1/4 inch blade if you can for cutting circles.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## kweinert (Nov 8, 2014)

JR Custom Calls said:


> How are you splitting them down the middle? From the end grain, or from the bark? Just making sure, as it's so much easier to 'noodle' by cutting the length of the log section down through the middle than it is to try and cut across the grain.



Currently I've been standing them on end. I need to build a good 'jig' for holding the logs when I cut them. Do you cut longer logs down the center and them cut them to length? I've been doing it in the other order and that could be contributing to my issues.



JR Custom Calls said:


> How wide is your blade on your BS? The wider the blade, the less of a curve you can cut. I have found that even a 1/2" blade makes it very hard to cut a half decent circle, but no more than I cut them, I haven't purchased a 1/4" blade yet.



I'm running with a 3/8". I have a 1/4" but I managed to put a kink in that somehow and I found it extremely easy to put a twist in the blade when trying to turn the corners.



JR Custom Calls said:


> How are you pulling the blade off? Are you getting it stuck in the wood and having to pull the piece back out? Are you cutting reliefs in the wood if you're using a somewhat thick blade?



It seems to me that I bind it a little and it jumps off the wheels. It's not getting stuck and it's not a particularly thick blade.



DKMD said:


> When you lay the log on its side for splitting, cut a parallel flat on each side before cutting out the pith... That'll give you a flat surface to set on the bandsaw. Alternatively, you can lay the blanks bark side down on the bandsaw table and use a round cardboard template to trace your rounds on the saw.



I did start cutting the flats on the side, but only after I'd cut a few logs already. The larger blanks in the picture I posted in the 'What did you do in your shop today' had the flats cut in them before I split the log.

For the smaller ones I just put them on the cut side and took a slice off the back. Those are destined to be ring bowls. For those much smaller blanks it seems to me that using the chain saw to cut the flats is sort of wasteful - but I could be wrong. It's happened before.

I've had issues with trying to put the blanks on the table bark side down. There's an amazing amount of force that wants to move that blank if it's not sitting solidly on the table.



Tom Smart said:


> I found this simple jig handy to help cut bowl blanks on the bandsaw. Drill a hole in the center of the blank to accept the small pin and set the pin the the hole on the board based on the size you want. Then spin the blank. Be sure to put a piece of scrap on the back that fits into your mitre slot.



That seems like a good idea. I think for my saw I'd have to make it wide enough so that I could put some clamps on the side closest to the upright to hold it in place. 

My bandsaw was built in 1982, has a non-standard miter slot, but seems to run pretty good. It might be time to think about replacing the tires though. They aren't terrible, but do seem to have some age cracks in them. I don't know if that contributes the blade coming off or not.

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge and experience. I really appreciate it.


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## JR Custom Calls (Nov 8, 2014)

So are you trying to cut natural edge blanks? If not, I've found the easiest way to process log sections on the band saw is to stand them on end, and cut just like noodling on the chainsaw. I can't ever cut straight with a chainsaw... If I marked the lines and put a magnetic level on my bar, I'd still end up with a trapezoid. 

Here's how I cut blanks on my BS . Now, given that you said you use a 93.5" blade, I can only assume you're cutting max 6"... so not sure if this would work for your needs or not. 








It does sound to me like you're trying to cut too small of a radius with the blade you've got. When it binds, you're pulling back enough to let it hop off the tires. I'd either switch to a 1/4" blade, or make a series of relief cuts so that the back of your blade isn't constantly trying to twist with the radius of the cut. Hope that made sense.


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## Kevin (Nov 8, 2014)

Ken I haven't any of this so excuse me if I am repeating or if you already know this - you probably do. Don't ever cut the end grain of a log short on the bandsaw unless you have it clamped in a jig made for that purpose. It will ruin your day possibly.


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## JR Custom Calls (Nov 8, 2014)

Kevin made a good point... I assumed you were laying the cut side of the half log on the table while you were cutting.


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## DKMD (Nov 8, 2014)

Here's another good video from Reed Gray:

Reactions: Like 1


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## kweinert (Nov 8, 2014)

When I cut the small blanks I put the log cut face down and trimmed off the edge lengthwise. Then I put it up on that edge to take off the "slab"on the back so if have a flat spot to set the blank on while I trimmed it round.

Reactions: Like 1


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