# How To.....Hold a 14" x 1 1 /4" Platter blank to a lathe?



## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

Ladies and Gents. ....and woodturners...

I want to turn a large platter.....1 1/4" thick but. ...

using a woodworm screw may be too deep!!!
faceplate may also use screws too deep!!!!

maybe I can use a glue block (hot glued) to my platter blank

what other options do I have???

cmon now I know yer all much smarter than me!???!


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## Tom Smart (Jun 10, 2020)

Using your wood screw put some spacers on the screw between the chuck and blank so it does not goes as deep but keeps contact with the chuck/spacers.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

oh yeah yer a Smart guy for sure!!!!


ahhhhhhh.... cool I like that idea

for a 5/4 blank......how deep can I / should I. go with the worm screw? would you think?????


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## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

thanks good idea


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## Tom Smart (Jun 10, 2020)

Hard to say without seeing or feeling it. Depends on weight of the blank, shape, inclusions, integrity (i.e. is it punky). Minimum probably 3 or 4 threads worth. Figure how deep you can go based on your intended shape and put as many threads as possible.


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## Tom Smart (Jun 10, 2020)

Another option, depending on your comfort level and what your intended finished project is, just use a flat jam chuck and tail stock pressure.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

being 14" i thought i may need about a 10 " jam chuck......that was my very first thought

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

no punk pretty sound piece.....and very flat now

actually i just got this blank from Larry over at
Franklinworkshop


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## Mlyle (Jun 10, 2020)

@FranklinWorkshops 

hey Larry.....we are talking about you.....see above

Reactions: Like 1


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## TXMoon (Jun 10, 2020)

Following but I think I'd go the glue block way.

Reactions: Agree 4


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## Tom Smart (Jun 10, 2020)

TXMoon said:


> Following but I think I'd go the glue block way.


Certainly an option.


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## Gdurfey (Jun 10, 2020)

A demonstrator at our club used double sided tape......but blank was only about 10 inches and much thinner/lighter. Just wanted to type though.


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## Steve in VA (Jun 10, 2020)

How to hold it.......very carefully!!! 

Buy shorter screws 
Larger faceplate with more screw holes if you have one; like you need an excuse to purchase new equipment!
Plywood spacer with your faceplate. Similar to Tom's suggestion to effectively shorten the screws, but still gives surface contact with plywood & faceplate
Glue block
Use a spur drive with tailstock support. Create a mortise and then flip it around to use a chuck.
**** I would not follow my advice without thinking it through. I'm interested as well and just throwing out ideas

Reactions: +Karma 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 10, 2020)

Use a Chuck Plate, made by none other than good ole Nubsbnstubs. Here is just one picture of it holding a a natural edge piece while making the tenon. I invented it in 2010. It allows me to turn a tenon on a 1/4" thick piece and you have to hunt for the dimples the screws made on the face. Go to my website listed in my signature below to get a better look at it, and if you choose, from there you can access my youtube channel to see some videos of it in use. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1 | Way Cool 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 10, 2020)

Actually, Michael, if you have a chuck with 100mm jaws, find the center on the tenon side, and bring up the live center and tighten the piece between the face of your jaws and live center. Turn a tenon, and then re-mount it and finish the piece. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 2 | Agree 1


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## FranklinWorkshops (Jun 10, 2020)

Some of the guys bought 17" diameter blanks. Maybe one of them can offer help after they turn one.


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## DKMD (Jun 10, 2020)

I would probably use a spacer and the wormwood screw as Tom described. Tailstock support and ~5/8” of screw penetration is plenty solid in my experience. 

You can add a glue block to the tenon side of the blank to preserve thickness if needed.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Karl_TN (Jun 11, 2020)

Steve in VA said:


> How to hold it.......very carefully!!!
> 
> Buy shorter screws
> Larger faceplate with more screw holes if you have one; like you need an excuse to purchase new equipment!
> ...



I often use Steve's two faceplate suggestions together if the platter blank is thick or off balanced. My faceplate only came with 4 holes, but I drilled another 4 holes for extra holding power and safety especially when using a spacer to keep the screws from going too deep. You are less likely to mess up the platter by using 8 shallow screws rather 4 deeper screws.

If you decide to go the glue block route then consider gluing a sheet of paper in between to make it easier to separate after turning a mortise or tenon for mounting in a chuck. Let the glue dry overnight and use tailstock for safety.

Reactions: Like 2 | Useful 1


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## Mike Mills (Jun 11, 2020)

From a Jimmy Clewes workshop I attended many years ago.
Mount between center (spur or steb). Top of the platter towards the tailstock. Turn a 3/8" tenon for your chuck jaws. You only need to clear enough from the top to insert your jaws. 
Reverse holding in your chuck and turn and shape the bottom with a recess.
Reverse and shaped the full top.

Reactions: Like 3 | Useful 2


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## Mlyle (Jun 12, 2020)

@Nubsnstubs 
Well Jerry you sold me......I just bought yer chuck plate?!!!!
can not wait to see just how good of a tool building engineer you are
I will let you and every one know soon!!!!

Reactions: Like 2 | Thank You! 1 | +Karma 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 13, 2020)

Mlyle said:


> @Nubsnstubs
> Well Jerry you sold me......I just bought yer chuck plate?!!!!
> can not wait to see just how good of a tool building engineer you are
> I will let you and every one know soon!!!!


Thanks, Michael, it's going into the USPS Monday morning. I don't mind saying that if you use it a lot, it will open up doors that weren't previously available. And, it can be used in the tenon removing process too. Now, all you need is the Tail Stock Steady and you will be in business.< shameful plug .............. Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 13, 2020)

Maybe someday .....


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## polyted (Jun 25, 2020)

Karl_TN said:


> I often use Steve's two faceplate suggestions together if the platter blank is thick or off balanced. My faceplate only came with 4 holes, but I drilled another 4 holes for extra holding power and safety especially when using a spacer to keep the screws from going too deep. You are less likely to mess up the platter by using 8 shallow screws rather 4 deeper screws.
> 
> If you decide to go the glue block route then consider gluing a sheet of paper in between to make it easier to separate after turning a mortise or tenon for mounting in a chuck. Let the glue dry overnight and use tailstock for safety.


What is a tailstock? I'm having a very similar issue with my first blank.


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## polyted (Jun 25, 2020)

Mlyle said:


> Ladies and Gents. ....and woodturners...
> 
> I want to turn a large platter.....1 1/4" thick but. ...
> 
> ...


I have a very similar issue but my stock is round with 7 inch diameter and only 2 inches thick.


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## Gdurfey (Jun 26, 2020)

polyted said:


> I have a very similar issue but my stock is round with 7 inch diameter and only 2 inches thick.



The "tail stock" is the sliding piece on the lathe opposite the headstock; the motor/drive end of the lathe. Most pieces are held, at least initially, with the tail stock up against the piece with a rotating "point" (freely spinning) to support the piece while you start to turn. The motor and a drive of some type drives/spins the piece; the tail stock just keeps it in place...….most of the time. Check out some youtube videos for bowl turning and you will see the demonstrator move the tail stock up to the piece as he starts. I am at work so I can't shoot you a picture of mine; one of the other guys might be able to.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## Diver Temple (Jun 26, 2020)

Nubsnstubs said:


> Use a Chuck Plate, made by none other than good ole Nubsbnstubs. Here is just one picture of it holding a a natural edge piece while making the tenon. I invented it in 2010. It allows me to turn a tenon on a 1/4" thick piece and you have to hunt for the dimples the screws made on the face. Go to my website listed in my signature below to get a better look at it, and if you choose, from there you can access my youtube channel to see some videos of it in use. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)


I think I saw this in a website involving whips and chains...

Reactions: Funny 2


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## polyted (Jun 26, 2020)

Gdurfey said:


> The "tail stock" is the sliding piece on the lathe opposite the headstock; the motor/drive end of the lathe. Most pieces are held, at least initially, with the tail stock up against the piece with a rotating "point" (freely spinning) to support the piece while you start to turn. The motor and a drive of some type drives/spins the piece; the tail stock just keeps it in place...….most of the time. Check out some youtube videos for bowl turning and you will see the demonstrator move the tail stock up to the piece as he starts. I am at work so I can't shoot you a picture of mine; one of the other guys might be able to.


Awesome explanation, thanks!

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 26, 2020)

Diver Temple said:


> I think I saw this in a website involving whips and chains...


Yeah, and also installed on Chariot wheels would be good. Fortunately for me, i've never been caught in the exposed screws. I'll bet that would hurt.......... Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 1


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## Johnlee (Jun 27, 2020)

Mlyle said:


> Ladies and Gents. ....and woodturners...
> 
> I want to turn a large platter.....1 1/4" thick but. ...
> 
> ...


I turn platters that are 17” across, 13/16” thick. They way I turn mine are using a faceplate with two side tape. I use tail stock when possible. If I use to much two side tape, I will almost brake the platter trying to get of the face plate. I mount the blank to the faceplate (two sided tape already on faceplate). Then use tail stock and turn this side with a 1/4-5/16 dove tail, finish turning out because this is your bottom. Flip wood around and mount using dove tail. Turn the front side . Use tail stock as much as possible. I have a little wood jig between the wood and tail stock so it don’t dimple the wood.

Reactions: Like 1 | EyeCandy! 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 29, 2020)

@Johnlee @Nubsnstubs 
Good post. If I had not bought nubnstubs tool
the “chuck plate”
I would have tried the dubble back tape trick on my piece

And. By chance I just today started using Jerry’s chuck
Plate.....and Jerry it was a challenging task to put your tool
On my piece and adapt to the lathe....but I am using it
Now an love it except for adjusting the pins initially while on my
Nova G3......not much space there...but I persevered 
I also had to go out and buy a ver small socket for the
Hex socket you supplied.....all things considered
I do like the tool...
Here are some pix of my piece 14” x 1.25” with the
Jerry Marcantel “ Chuck Plate”

Reactions: Way Cool 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 29, 2020)

Thanks all for the great help???

Mike Lyle

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 30, 2020)

Michael, I'm glad to see you using it. One thing, though. For flat wood, all the screws should be screwed back in until they almost touch the jaws. The center screw should be the indicator. I usually put the tenon of the CP on a flat surface, then screw the screws in until they almost touch. In your picture above, you will notice a "V" on the rim of the CP. I put that there for an indicator of where the center of my #1 jaw is. It also should be directly above the "A" in Chuck Plate face. I always mount the CP into that position. Then I use the 4 screws that are located between the jaw splits, indicated in the above picture between jaws #3 and #4. Then you can access the screws easier. I have found that for flat stock like you are working on, you don't need more than 4 screws holding the piece. Make sure they are the outer ring of screws.

When I first invented the CP, I also was using only a G# chuck. I also had a different lathe than now. I used a regular Allen wrench with a Ball End. It was the one that is about 3" long. Then I got a Powermatic A, and the headstock is like a large box that. The Allen wrench would allow me to get in to make adjustments, so I found some Allen wrenches that fit in the Folding Allen wrench sets with ball ends. I ordered a bunch. They worked great, but when I went back to get some more, they didn't or couldn't find any. So, I ordered a bunch of the bits I sent you. If you can find a very small ratchet, or even a flex shaft nut driver, that would be the way to go. 

I'll post a couple pictures later of the ratchet and flex shaft tools I use. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mlyle (Jun 30, 2020)

@Nubsnstubs 
Thanks Jerry for the tips.....
I will try to apply them next time.
Also I got a small socket set. Had it all the time from
Back in the annals of my unused tool piles...
I am in the sand stage of this mahogany piece
And should get it done today
And one question...

hows come I got the 2010 model Chuck Plate
And not the 2020 model??????hahaha

Reactions: +Karma 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 30, 2020)

That's an easy question to answer. I invented the Chuck plate in August, 2010. It was made of hard Maple and had about 25-30 drywall screws poking through the face. It was meant to be a one time tool, but when something works for you, you just don't toss it. It layed around for at least 3 months before I had a difficult mounting, then used it again. After about the 3rd or 4th time in the course of a year, I decided it was better than a spur. The Maple started cracking some, so I went with Baltic birch plywood. Went awhile more and decided to go with Aluminum. I put the date on it in case someone says they made one before me. If it can be proven, I'll gladly credit them for it's design. 

About that time I was a member of SMC. I immediately posted a How To with pictures on how to make your own out of wood. It's archived in the articles forum. There are a lot of people who would rather have me make one for them. I then made my first 3 in Aluminum in late 2012. In 2014, I made a hundred Chuck Plates. Putting the point on the screws is much easier than finding the raw stock screws. I'm close to setting up and making another 100 CP's. If I engrave them, they will have the 2010 date on them.

Here are 2 pictures of the wrenches I used for the screws. The handled flex shaft is a CAL-VAN 456. 
The little ratchet is a Sears 4112 as you can see. It is for the 1/4" bits that are found in all hardware stores.




The bit shown in the ratchet is the same one you have, but I did a little machining to give the shape you see here.




Using the socket you said you have is good, but please wrap this Allen bit wit one wrap of tape before you insert it into the socket. I've lost several when I use the 1/4" socket and other Sears flex nut driver shaft. .............. Jerry (in Tucson)

Reactions: Like 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 30, 2020)

Hey Jerry
Yes I have the tape on the socket wrench and bit now making the wrench a dedicated wrench.
And I think i have a good feel for adjusting the individual screw points.
I have a background of being under and inside
car engines as the usage of socket sets are
an ever-changing experience of challenges and positioning tools and scraped knuckles of wnich
led to many times my mother telling me
she was going to wash my mouth with soap
if i said those words again.....ha ha though she knew I had learned them from good ol Dad!!!!

I digress....

Your tool is an On the Job tutorial ......but once learned is a very useful and effective tool....

I will be using the CP soon sgain as i have another 14" x 1 .25" Mahog platter awaiting
the Marcantel pointed screws......yearning for
Marcantel to control the safe positioning of
same......on my Fairly new Laguna 18/36.....

and if i need future assistance I got yer #. ha ha

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## Mlyle (Jun 30, 2020)

@Nubsnstubs 

hey Jerry thanks also for a bit of a history tour of the "Marcantel Chuck Plate"
Maybe a special file would be appropriate for
the "Marcantel CP tips for usage" including
all your videos of the CP....

JMHO

Reactions: Like 1


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## Nubsnstubs (Jun 30, 2020)

Mlyle said:


> @Nubsnstubs
> 
> hey Jerry thanks also for a bit of a history tour of the "Marcantel Chuck Plate"
> Maybe a special file would be appropriate for
> ...


The videos would be great, but since I got this Imac computer, I'm having difficulty even viewing my videos. I have more than 8 terra bytes of video, so I don't think I have enough time left in this life to upload here. If you have any questions, all you need to do is ask, and I'll hopefully have an answer.

Who is Marcantel?? ............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Mlyle (Jun 30, 2020)

OMG. did I spell yer name wrong?

if so....so sorry


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