# Turkey Box Call Tutorial - How I Make A Box Call



## screaminskullcalls

It was suggested by BrentWin that I post a box call tutorial. Back in 2006 I decided to try my hand at making box calls, and I remember finding a couple tutorials online. They helped me out a great deal with getting started in box call making, but still left me with unanswered questions. I'm posting a tutorial that
covers everything from wood selection to tuning. I don't claim to be an expert, and I'm still learning different things that make the end result better and quicker. Some call makers will do things differently, so this is not the only way to make a box call. For first timers...I hope I have answered most questions you may have about box call making. Enjoy~ Mike Rizzardi


STEP #1
The first step is selecting the lumber for your box call. Typically you would use a softer wood for the box
and a harder wood for the paddle. It's best starting out with a good straight grain wood as it will be easier
to tune and will give you the best results. The end grain is important also, and you will see in my photo's
what to look for. I usually start out with a 2x2 blank for the box. From this blank I will have enough wood
for the box and the base. The box calls I make are under 8" for the box and under 10" for the paddle,
so I usually buy blanks in those lengths or longer. A few good lumber choices for the box are:
Poplar, Butternut, Mahogany, Walnut, Cherry, & Cedar. For Paddles: Maple, Walnut, Cherry, Purple heart,
Zebrawood, Osage, Yellow heart and just about any other straight grain hardwood. In some cases the box
and paddle can be from the same wood and get a good quality sound. Walnut over Walnut makes a good
caller as well as Cedar over Cedar. Experiment with different woods and you will notice a difference in
the sound. If this is your first box call, I would suggest using inexpensive lumber until you get the hang
of building a box call. Poplar or Cedar is a good choice while learning.







STEP #2
Cotton ball test. I found this tip on the net a few years ago and it really helps with the final tone of the call.
The Idea is to have opposite grain direction for the paddle and the box. The results of this little test will determine the front and rear of the box, as well as the screw end or handle of the paddle.










I'll be making a Mahogany box with Spalted Birch end blocks for my box call. You can use one
type of wood for the box if you like, and skip the end blocks. The total length of my box
is usually between 7.25" - 7.75". For this box I'll use a 5.75" block of Mahogany and I'll cut the
birch to give me two identical length pieces. After glue up I'll be trimming this call down to 7.25"

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## screaminskullcalls

I cut the arch on my band saw. Don't throw away the scrap piece. you can use this for your box
call base on the call. I won't be using this piece for this one...but I may use it for a different call.


Here is the blank with the arch cut for the top of the box.


 

STEP #4
Next were ready to cut the angles for the sides of the box. Some box call makers use straight sides,
others use and angled side. Those that use angled sides usually use between 5 to 7 degree angles.
I use 5 degrees for my boxes. I like to keep the bottom of my box at around 1" wide. with a 5 degree
angle to the top of the call, it will leave me with around 1.25" width at the top.



 
I've set my band saw table to 5 degrees and I'll make my first cut for the sides. Keep the cut close
to one side for the first cut.

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## screaminskullcalls

After making the first cut, I will flip the blank upside down and measure 1 1/16" over from the cut
side. This will give me my 1" bottom after sanding.
I've flipped the blank around to cut the opposite side. Here is a view from the back side of the
band saw. Make sure you keep the bottom of the call flush with the table.







You should now have a blank that looks like the one below.


 


STEP #5 (OPTIONAL)
I'm going to be putting some purple heart inlay into the box. I've set my table saw at a 5 degree
angle and about 1/16" height. Set your fence to wherever you would like the inlay on the box.
and cut the mortise for the inlay on both sides.

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## screaminskullcalls

I've ripped down some 1/8 purple heart for the inlay and glued them in place. I'm now ready to sand
the inlay's flush with the sides.


 

I'm going to put in a few more inlays before I'm ready to checker the sides. For vertical inlays on the
box I'll set the table saw back to 0 degrees with 1/16" height. Here I've shown with pencil marks where
I'll put the inlays. I'll put one on each end of the box where the Mahogany and Birch are glued together
to give it a nice look.


 

I've finished the inlay work for the box on both sides and sanded them smooth.


 



STEP #6 (OPTIONAL)
I'm ready for my checkering on both sides of the box. I'll first draw the pattern on the sides.
I've taken the traditional 1/2" square pattern and changed it to a 1/4 x 1/2" rectangle pattern,
and added a hexagon in the center. I did this to make the call different from other checker patterns,
and I would encourage you to come up with a design that you can call your own. You can experiment
with different ideas until you find one that you like. I don't checker all of my calls, but when I do, I use this
pattern as my signature for my calls.
The checkering is not only for looks. It also makes the call a little easier to tune. It allows the sides of the box to vibrate when running the paddle across the sound boards. This will mean less material you will need to
remove from the inside walls to achieve the sound you want.

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## screaminskullcalls

I use a straight edge and a razor knife to cut along the pattern I've drawn. Start with making a cut
with light pressure and go a little deeper on the second pass. I don't go too deep with my checkering.
You can experiment with depth until you've found what you like.



 

I've made my cuts and I'm ready to chisel


 



 

I've chiseled my first line about 1/16" inward from my razor cut and will continue this until the
checkering is completed on both sides of the call.

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## screaminskullcalls

I've finished checkering with the chisel and I'll clean it up with the edge of my razor knife and
some sand paper. You can also use a Dremel tool to clean up any trouble areas you may have.






STEP #7
I'm ready to hollow out the inside of the box to create the sound chamber. I've marked the top of
my box where I want to hollow out. I usually stay inside the left and right sides of the call about
3/16" or a little more. this will not be the final thickness as that will come later in the tuning process,
but It will give you a good starting point, without going to thin on the sides. The length of my sound
chamber for this call will be 5 1/2". I'll be using a 1/2" forstner bit with the tip ground off to do most
of the work.






 

Just like the sides of the box, the inside is also tapered. I like to hollow out the box at around a
10 Degree angle, so the bottom of the soundboard is thicker than the top. You can tilt your
drill press table to 10 degrees. The throat on my drill press is not big enough since it's only a
small bench top press. I turn the drill press sideways and use a block of wood as a gauge.
I've ripped the gauge on my table saw at 10 degrees and tape it to the bottom of the box call.
You can make a nice jig to do this step ( I plan on making one soon).

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## screaminskullcalls

I've set my depth to drill out 1.25" deep at the center of my box call. I'm ready to start hollowing
the call out. I clamped a guide block to the table to keep me straight, and along my line. Continue
drilling holes until one side of the box is hollowed out. Do the same for the other side.




When both sides are done you should have something that looks like this.


 

I'll use a small sanding block to remove some of the edges on the inside. I'm not going crazy with
removing material at this point. That will come with tuning. I'm just cleaning up some of the burrs
from drilling.


 


STEP #8
Create a channel at the rear of the box call. Remember what side is front and rear? Hopefully
you still have it marked on the bottom of the box :).
I've drawn an line just to show the area that I need to channel out. This is so the paddle will
not hit the back of the call when it's closed. The paddle should rest on the soundboard sides when
it's closed. I use a dremel tool with a sanding disk to create this channel. You can also use a
wood file, or sharp knife. Whatever works for you!

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## screaminskullcalls

Here is the channel I've created on this box. Some will extend the channel to the very end of the
box, but It's not required unless your paddle still hit's the back end. you won't know this untill
your paddle is finished and placed on the box, so I just go with this and make any changes to
the channel later.



 

STEP #9
It's time to set the box aside for a bit and work on the paddle. I've chosen Purple Heart for my paddle
and the end grain is very close to what I'm looking for. It will work out fine. This blank was ripped
down to 1 5/8" wide. I usually go with 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" width for my paddles. I need to rip down
the blank to the thickness I want for the paddle. I like a heavy paddle, so I'll rip it down to 3/8" or a bit
more to allow for sanding.



 

After ripping the blank down I have determined which end is the front and rear using
the cotton ball test at the beginning of the tutorial. I've drawn the pattern of the paddle,
and decided to inlay the paddle with mahogany to match the box.


 


STEP #10 (OPTIONAL)
Just like the inlay work on the box, I'll set my table saw up at 1/16" height, and I'll make a cut
on each side of the paddle top, about a 1/4" from the left and right edge.

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## screaminskullcalls

I've cut my 1/8" strips of mahogany and I'll glue them into place and clamp.


 

STEP #11
While the glue is drying I'm going to move ahead to working on the box call base. I've decided
on using 2 woods just like the box. I'll be using spalted birch and mahogany.

Here I'm ripping down a piece of birch 1/4" thick for the base.



 

I've got a couple pieces of Mahogany I found in my scrap box that are 1/4 thick. I'll glue them up with the
birch for the ends of the base.


 

The base for my call is going to be 1 1/2" wide after it's glued up and cut
to size. I'll glue these together as is and cut them down after it dries.


Step #12
Now that the Inlay is dry on the paddle I'll go back to working on the paddle.
I'll cut out the paddle shape and then sand the top smooth.

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## screaminskullcalls

STEP #13
I'm ready to put a radius on the bottom of the paddle. I've drawn the radius on the end of the paddle
to give me an Idea where I need to be when I cut the paddle and begin to sand it to shape.



 

You can take this right to the belt sander, or what I like to do is get a little
head start with the band saw. I'll angle my band saw table to get angled
cuts on each side of the paddle, before I put it on the belt sander. for this
paddle I've tilted my table to around 20 degrees. Make your cut on both
sides of the paddle.



 
Notice stayed along my pencil line with the cuts, and left a flat edge at the center of the paddle.
This will be rounded off nicely with the belt sander.


 

I'm going to drill my hole for the screw while I still have a flat edge on both sides to work with.
I usually drill my hole about 1/2" below the front edge of the paddle and then use a 1/2" countersink
bit, so the screw seats nicely flush with the paddle top. The screw hole will depend on the size screw you
use. I'm using a #8 brass 1 1/2" screw.

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## screaminskullcalls

I'm ready to sand the radius on the bottom of the paddle. I taped a piece of scrap wood to the
top of the paddle to make it easier, and to keep my fingers away from getting sanded down along
with the purple heart. :)



 

Take it to your belt sander and rock the paddle side to side, checking the radius several times along
the way, until you're happy with it. Here is the finished radius on this paddle.


 

STEP #14
Drill the hole at the front of the box call. Set your paddle on top of the box and place a mark
where you need to drill your hole. Make sure you have the hole centered on the box, and drill
with a 1/8 drill bit.


 

Drill a countersink with a 3/8" forstner bit to make a seat for the spring. (most box call springs
are 3/8". If you have a different size spring you can change bits to match the spring.

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## screaminskullcalls

STEP #15
Were just about finished !!! Well that depends on how long it takes to tune your box call. Let's
get started.

I'm using a sanding block I made with a scrap piece of wood for the first step. Lay the call on it's side and
work the sanding block back and fourth along the inside top edge of the soundboards. All you want to do
is round over the edge at this point. I'm not removing any other wood inside the call. I leave a little flat spot
along the top rails. the thickness will be adjusted once we start tuning the call.




Here you can see the left side of the box is rounded off. do the same for the opposite side.


 

The rest of the tuning process can't be explained with photos......so read on!
Once both sides are rounded over, it's time to put the paddle on the box. Put your spring and screw
in place and screw down the paddle. When looking at the side of the call with the paddle in the open
position (as if you're starting a yelp). The paddle should rest at the center of the box or just in front
of center.
Give the paddle a few strokes with pressure. It may take a few tries until you can get any sound from
the call. If you do get a sound it's most likely going to be a high pitch squeal at first. If you're lucky...
it will sound something like a turkey. If not.....we need to remove more material from the inside to
reduce the thickness of the call. Try not to remove any more along the top edge of the sound boards
at this point. begin sanding or carving the center of the sound boards down to the bottom to reduce thickness.
Keep checking the sound as you go. you will be surprised how much the sound changes with removing
a small amount. If you can't grasp the sides of the soundboard and flex them a little bit by squeezing...you are
too thick with the sides, and need to remove more by sanding, carving with a chisel or a sharp pocket knife.
Keep going back and fourth with this process until your getting a good sound. Here are a few tips you should know about tuning the box call.
1. Thicker sides equals higher pitch
2. Thinner sides equals lower pitch
3. If you taper the sides of the box, so that the front of the sound boards are thicker than the rear, it will
help with the roll over from high to low, which create a realistic turkey yelp. Adjust the side thickness
of the sound board where you need too, to get that nice break over from high to low.
4. If you're still having trouble getting a good sound, try sanding the underside of the paddle and the top
edges of the soundboard rail with 100 grit sand paper. Make sure you sand with the grain!

Sometimes tuning goes quick. I've been lucky enough to tune a few calls in the past in less than 15 minutes,
but most of the time it's not the case. I generally spend a good hour or sometimes longer until I get the sound I'm looking for.

Sometimes I just can't get the call to sound right at all and it goes into the scrap pile. Some wood just
won't cooperate or has a tone that just don't sound right. It happens.........nothing you can do about it.
Welcome to turkey box call making. Don't give up! It took me 1/2 dozen calls before I got one that
sounded like a turkey. You will get it with practice!

This call in the tutorial turned out great.....tuned fairly quick and has a good break over with a raspy
back end. Just how I like em'.


STEP #16

I'm ready to put the base of the call on the box. You can glue the box directly to the base, or mortise the base
out for the box. I usually mortise the base to fit the box. It has nothing to do with the sound, just my preference. Here I've shown the base mortised and the box has been glued in. I created the mortise with
the table saw, but a router makes an easy job of it. The base was left longer than the box for gluing. I cut the ends flush after the glue dries and sand smooth.


 

STEP #17

I then like to sand the corners of the box at 45 degree angles to give it a nice touch. I also have the disk sander table pitched inward to give the box a taper look at the corners.

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## screaminskullcalls

STEP #18 This box call is tuned, finish sanded down to 320 grit and ready for your favorite finish coat.
I use deft sanding sealer, followed by deft semi gloss, or satin lacquer. make sure you tape off the sound
board top edges and the underside of the paddle that makes contact with the box. you don't want to get
any finish on those areas. Once the call is completely done you can chalk the lid with box call chalk or
carpenters chalk. I personally don't use chalk on my calls. I've already achieved the sound I'm looking
for during the tuning process, and chalk is not needed to make it work properly. I just touch up the underside of the paddle and the box call rails (Very Lightly) with 100 grit sand paper if needed, and that's on a rare occasion. Some wood combos will last years without needing a touch up.


Here it is all ready for the finish coat..........


Hope I have offered some help with making your box calls.......Enjoy!
Mike Rizzardi

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## rdnkmedic

This is awesome. Just means I gotta try something else now.

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## ripjack13

Nice...Good tutorial. Good pix as well....even if it was just 4 at a time.

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## screaminskullcalls

Thanks Marc....you da man!

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## BrentWin

TREMENDOUS JOB!!!!!!!!

Thanks
Brent

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## bluedot

Good job. The tuning part was right on.

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## Mike1950

Nice call and great tutorial!!!

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## SENC

Thanks, Mike! Great tutorial!

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## manbuckwal

Great Tutorial !!! Thanks !!!

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## FloridaQuacker Game Calls

GREAT WRITE UP AND TUTORIAL!!

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## myingling

Great write up ,,, and sweet call

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## screaminskullcalls

Thanks all...I had fun doing it. I just hope someone out there will find it useful.
Mike


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## JR Parks

screaminskullcalls said:


> Thanks all...I had fun doing it. I just hope someone out there will find it useful.
> Mike


Thanks Mike. Good explanation and tutorial. I have got a bunch of turks using a Lynch's box call but now I am going to have to make one of my own! 
Jim R

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## screaminskullcalls

Good to hear Jim!


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## RW Mackey

Great job Mike, I love a good box, but way to complicated for me. Think I'll stick 
To my Pot Calls, thanks for sharing.

Roy


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## jqcargle

Awesome tutorial Mike! I do have a question if thats okay. I was wondering what the dimensions were for the arch profile?


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## screaminskullcalls

jqcargle said:


> Awesome tutorial Mike! I do have a question if thats okay. I was wondering what the dimensions were for the arch profile?


This box measured 1 3/8" at the ends and 1 5/8" at center. That is before the base is glued on. I change those measurements depending on the length of the box I'm doing at the time.
Those measurements should work ok with a 7.25" - 7.75" box.


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## allisb48

Mike, didn't see what you finish the call with. Do you just use ploy or something else? There is a fair amount of work in what you have made would hate to cover it with any old finish. By the way thanks for the tutorial Mike really helps. Good looking call too.


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## screaminskullcalls

Thanks,
I tried many different finishes over the years, but my favorite is Deft Spray Lacquer.


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## Rusher75

This has to be one of the best ever written up. You cant find much on box calls. Its more of a kept secret among box call makers. You can hand anyone a book, but not all can read. Great job on that.

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## NYWoodturner

This is a very good classroom thread... so I'm moving it to the classroom !


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## NeilYeag

Agree with all of the previous comments. I know it takes considerable effort, to do all the photo's, write the dialogue and then post all of the details. Your photo's and descriptions are really professional. I am thinking of making one of these, and there ain't even any Turkeys around these parts!

Neil


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## screaminskullcalls

I'm sorry the images for this thread had been missing for some time. My image hosting site went belly up and I could not find the originals to restore them. Since then I came across an old external drive that I had not used for awhile, and to my surprise I had them backed up on the disk. I've restored them to this thread. Thanks for being patient!

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## ripjack13

Thank you so much Mike!


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## CWS

Thanks!!!!!!!!


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