# small snakewood bowl sequence



## woodintyuuu (Dec 26, 2014)

@kazuma78 asked me to post this to help him through using snakewood here is a rough idea
as yu can see the log end is quite checked but nothing gapped (critical) if its gaped its a bigger hassel 
As you can see the figure or snake pattern is shown quite well on the endgrain of this log [email protected] kevin was speaking too in another post i chose this because the figure was not good and then was good in small distance
anyway the next shot is engrain cut to expose fige and minor crack 
then cutting in half and then tracing with a roll o tape and the cut. before it is put betweeen center to turn is is flooded with superglue thin. THIS IS CRITICAL then i turn a spigot or tenon and then superglue again i made this little bowl to have an undulating rim formed by outside of log if i wouldhave oriented other direction more snake pattern as best pattern is always on outside edge more suprglue hollowing the bowl and more superglue . eventually i would part of with a jamchuck but thats later hope this help. Snakewood ray patterns
just about hide any superglue . once this pc is sanded and finished you will have a hard time identifing cracks 
hope this helps josh

Reactions: Like 3 | Thank You! 1 | Way Cool 1


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

Cool! Thanks for the help. Do you just use a drive center for the headstock? I'll have to get one. All I have is a bowl chuck haha


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## woodintyuuu (Dec 26, 2014)

how the heck................. do you turn wood without one . $20 bucks i think just get right taper for your lathe. All MOST all objects are started on a drive center it givesyou the ultimate safety and flexability to move pc around to adjust for figure and center hope that helps josh I am really glad now you asked me to post this as now you will know about drive centers. Oh make sure its a 4 prong one . go gettum man


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

Haha yeah I was just being lazy before and used the screw portion of my jaws to screw into the face of the piece. Then I would shape the bottom and clamp down on the tenon then flip around finish bottom with a jamb chuck.


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

Thanks for the info! And having it just pressed against a drive center is pretty safe?


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## woodintyuuu (Dec 26, 2014)

yes with pressure from the tailstock it is probably the safest fixing possible IMNSHO

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

Cool! I'll order one today then!


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## NYWoodturner (Dec 26, 2014)

just a different opinion - I think the two prong is safer than the 4. I own both but have not used my 4 prong since I bought the two. It seems to me that two of the prongs always seem to prevent the other two from setting deeply in the blank. I have had a 4 prong spur slip , but never a two prong. But I agree with Cliff - how the hell do you turn without one?

Reactions: Like 1 | Agree 2 | Informative 1


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## Tclem (Dec 26, 2014)

My opinion is don't turn bowls with snakewood. Cut it up and turn pens.

Reactions: Like 1 | Funny 2 | Sincere 1


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

What's the difference between a spur slip and and a drive center (sorry, I don't know a whole lot about traditional turning tools) all I have are a couple face plates, a chuck and jaws, a sorby stebcenter and carbide tools. Haha i really need to expand my turning repitoire. Links to any necessary tools would be helpful too if you guys have favorites.


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## Kevin (Dec 26, 2014)

kazuma78 said:


> What's the difference between a spur slip and and a drive center



A 'spur slip' is a old western type ladies undergarment made for riding - similar to what Henry wears when he goes traipsing through his garden around midnight sipping lilac tea and singing Mary Poppins tunes. A drive center is a place where they try to teach people like @jmurray how to cope with other drivers' bad habits without following them home and beating the hell out of them.

Reactions: Funny 11


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## Kevin (Dec 26, 2014)

P.S. I didn't answer your question because I'm not real sure myself I just use the stuff I got with my lathe not sure about all the nomenclature either.

Reactions: Funny 1


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## SENC (Dec 26, 2014)

Kevin said:


> A 'spur slip' is a old western type ladies undergarment made for riding - similar to what Henry wears when he goes traipsing through his garden around midnight sipping lilac tea and singing Mary Poppins tunes. A drive center is a place where they try to teach people like @jmurray how to cope with other drivers' bad habits without following them home and beating the hell out of them.


Idiot. I'm strictly a sound of music guy.

Reactions: Funny 4 | Informative 1


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## woodintyuuu (Dec 26, 2014)

NYWoodturner said:


> just a different opinion - I think the two prong is safer than the 4. I own both but have not used my 4 prong since I bought the two. It seems to me that two of the prongs always seem to prevent the other two from setting deeply in the blank. I have had a 4 prong spur slip , but never a two prong. But I agree with Cliff - how the hell do you turn without one?


scott i do like 2 spur but on some woods a two spur has a tendncy to split the wood if your not careful, but in wet non grain sideways wood they are really great, another little issue i have with two spur is minor alignment adjustments are little more difficult , thanks for your opinion man


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## NYWoodturner (Dec 26, 2014)

For teaching purposes here are pics of both a 2 prong and a 4 prong spur or drive. Cliff is right - you may split a piece of wood with a 2 prong - IF you run it parallel with the grain. However if you align it perpendicular or diagonal with the grain you will be fine. The 4 prong has two more points of contact and will give you twice as many grip points. IMO they are more effective on soft wood than hardwood. There is a place for both in a turners tool kit. From a safety standpoint though I still would recommend a 2 prong. Think of it in terms of a screw driver - which would you be able to drive into a piece of wood? a Phi;tips head or a flat blade?

Reactions: Like 1


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## duncsuss (Dec 26, 2014)

I find that I use a Stebb drive center more often than a 4-spur drive center these days. I don't have to hammer the center onto the drive, I like the fact that it slips if I do something stupid (as in, "too aggressive") instead of stalling the lathe motor or launching a tool into orbit

Reactions: Agree 1


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## DKMD (Dec 26, 2014)

I'm a steb guy also unless I'm dealing with something pretty soft. I use a 4-prong sometimes, and I've also got a drive plate that fits in my chuck... It's basically a small faceplate with about 20 adjustable spikes in the face. That sucker will flat hold on to anything, but it's a little fussy adjusting the spikes.

Cool wood, Cliff!


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## kazuma78 (Dec 26, 2014)

Thanks for the help guys! I'm going to look some of those accessories up tomorrow!


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## woodintyuuu (Dec 27, 2014)

DKMD said:


> I'm a steb guy also unless I'm dealing with something pretty soft. I use a 4-prong sometimes, and I've also got a drive plate that fits in my chuck... It's basically a small faceplate with about 20 adjustable spikes in the face. That sucker will flat hold on to anything, but it's a little fussy adjusting the spikes.
> 
> Cool wood, Cliff!


i might need one of those doc lol

Reactions: Agree 1


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