# Dyed peppermill



## DKMD (Oct 27, 2013)

I bought some killer big leaf maple burl from Mike1950 a while back, and I thought it would be perfect for a peppermill. When I got it turned and sanded, I thought, 'why not dye this thing?'... I know there are wood purest among you who shutter at the thought of coloring wood, but I couldn't resist.

This is about 14" tall and uses the shaftless crushgrind mechanism. I dyed it with the aniline dye from CSUSA then cut it back to reveal some of the natural wood color. Finished with lacquer sealer and Danish oil.

Comment, criticism, and suggestions always appreciated. What do you think about coloring wood?

Reactions: Like 12


----------



## NYWoodturner (Oct 27, 2013)

Doc - I think it rocks. I have played with coloring a few times and would like to more, but when it fails its pretty unrecoverable. Sum it up -fear of screwing up a good piece of wood prevents me from doing more.
This piece has a very regal look to it that has class. Is that a black or dark brown dye?
Scott

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Woodman (Oct 27, 2013)

No criticisms or suggestions at all, just compliments and congratulations! I think it's outstanding.
I think coloring wood is up to the artist. If it's a piece that the artist will be offering for sale it's mandatory that this be disclosed. Variety is the spice of life.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## barry richardson (Oct 27, 2013)

At first glance I thought it was Jimmies' Walnut.... I really like the shape, I find some to be overly busy. Is it 2 parts?, I don't see a seam anywhere. I'm wondering what it might have looked like with red or blue dye.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## WoodLove (Oct 27, 2013)

That thing is AWESOME!!!!!!!! Excellent work doc!

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Kevin (Oct 27, 2013)

That is a gorgeous mill. If you had just told us it was walnut I think we'd have all believed it. I will choose to believe you're pulling our leg about it being maple dyed to look like walnut. Whatever it is, it's dripping with supersexygorgeousness. That form is a thoroughbred - I'll have to attempt to copy that one!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## DKMD (Oct 27, 2013)

Thanks, folks!

Scott, this is the black dye, and the natural brown from the wood shows through. In certain light, parts of it actually look purple. I understand the fear of screwing up good wood... I've done it! Single colors are a lot harder to goof in my hands.

Barry, I'm waiting on some of Jimmy's walnut mill blanks, so maybe that was the inspiration. There is a seam, but that little floating tenon trick makes them nearly invisible. Here's a shot of the dissembled mill... You can see the locust tenon. With this shaftless mechanism, you can't get them apart once you put them together, so it doesn't matter what's used for the tenon. In fact, I've thought about using corian or plastic, but I haven't don't it yet... Anything dense and slick seems like it would be a good choice. On the color, I'll probably try some othes on future mills... I'll bet they all look cool!

Reactions: Like 3


----------



## DKMD (Oct 27, 2013)

goslin99 said:


> Really nice!!How about a shaftless mill tutorial????


Just for you, Dave...

http://woodbarter.com/threads/shaftless-crushgrind-peppermill.4475/

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## bluedot (Oct 27, 2013)

I think you gave that piece of wood an outstanding look in a very nice form!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## rdnkmedic (Oct 27, 2013)

Nice work Doc. Beautiful wood and you made it shine.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Mike1950 (Oct 27, 2013)

David you did that piece of wood justice- shape is great and color is also.

Reactions: Like 2


----------



## Sprung (Oct 27, 2013)

Awesome, Doc! I always enjoy seeing your work.

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## ChrisN (Oct 27, 2013)

Wow, that sure transforms the maple! It looks like walnut now. Great job!

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## Schroedc (Oct 28, 2013)

Doc, How large is the diameter on the tennon? I've got some 3/4 to 1" Corian here somewhere...........


----------



## DKMD (Oct 28, 2013)

Schroedc said:


> Doc, How large is the diameter on the tennon? I've got some 3/4 to 1" Corian here somewhere...........


You'd have to glue it up... The outer diameter is 1 1/2" with a 1 1/16" hole drilled through it.


----------



## Schroedc (Oct 28, 2013)

DKMD said:


> You'd have to glue it up... The outer diameter is 1 1/2" with a 1 1/16" hole drilled through it.



If you want some let me know, I have a ton of 1/2 inch sheet corian here, could post you a FRB.....

Reactions: Like 1


----------



## DKMD (Oct 28, 2013)

Schroedc said:


> If you want some let me know, I have a ton of 1/2 inch sheet corian here, could post you a FRB.....


Thanks for the offer! I've got a bunch of stopper sized hardwood blanks that I've been using for purpose, and they seem to be working great so far. You're a gentlemen and a scholar for offering, but I'm fixed for tenon material for a while. If you try it, please let us know how it works. You also might put up a box in the trade section... You never know what kind of goodies you might be able to get for a box corian!


----------



## kweinert (Oct 31, 2013)

DKMD said:


> You can see the locust tenon. With this shaftless mechanism, you can't get them apart once you put them together, so it doesn't matter what's used for the tenon. In fact, I've thought about using corian or plastic, but I haven't don't it yet... Anything dense and slick seems like it would be a good choice.



Note that I've not actually used this yet as the mechanisms just came in the mail yesterday, but I was thinking about your comment on corian/plastic and I stopped by Lowe's the other day and picked up a PVC straight joint. It's 1 1/8 on the inside and 1 3/8 on the outside. It's a little bigger on the inside than the 1 1/16 that the instructions call for, but it also has that center ridge inside for the tube to butt up against if you're using this joint for its original purpose.

It looks like the prongs on the mill mechanism will snap over those when you cut the joint down to size. You'll still need to glue, of course, but you don't need to put in a groove or anything for it. There might be a couple spots of flash to take off on the outside of the tube but this looks to be just about the perfect size for a tenon for a mill.

Thoughts?


----------



## DKMD (Oct 31, 2013)

Soun


kweinert said:


> Note that I've not actually used this yet as the mechanisms just came in the mail yesterday, but I was thinking about your comment on corian/plastic and I stopped by Lowe's the other day and picked up a PVC straight joint. It's 1 1/8 on the inside and 1 3/8 on the outside. It's a little bigger on the inside than the 1 1/16 that the instructions call for, but it also has that center ridge inside for the tube to butt up against if you're using this joint for its original purpose.
> 
> It looks like the prongs on the mill mechanism will snap over those when you cut the joint down to size. You'll still need to glue, of course, but you don't need to put in a groove or anything for it. There might be a couple spots of flash to take off on the outside of the tube but this looks to be just about the perfect size for a tenon for a mill.
> 
> Thoughts?


Sounds interesting... If the clips will engage, I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as there's enough bite to turn the mechanism. What type of glue would you use?


----------



## kweinert (Oct 31, 2013)

DKMD said:


> What type of glue would you use?



I was thinking of an epoxy as I'm not sure anything else would really have a long-term binding on the PVC. And maybe I'd have to hit the inside of the tube above the center with a dremel to provide a little more bite for the adhesive.


----------



## DKMD (Oct 31, 2013)

The other thought I had was about the OD... The kit calls for 1 1/2", so you'd have to change the drill size or set the insert into a wooden tenon.


----------



## kweinert (Oct 31, 2013)

DKMD said:


> The other thought I had was about the OD... The kit calls for 1 1/2", so you'd have to change the drill size or set the insert into a wooden tenon.



Yes, I realized that as well. Thought it would just be easy to use a different drill size for that. 

If it gets to be too much of a PITA to use the ready-made 'tenon' then I'll change. I was just thinking of something that would stay easy to turn when the mill is finished. It shouldn't be too difficult to drill to the correct depth with the 1 3/8 then finish with the 1 1/16 through the rest of the top part. And since the only real reason for the 1 1/2 (from what I can tell) is to give sufficient strength for the wood once you've cut the 1 1/16 through the center so the smaller size to match a ready made tenon shouldn't be an issue. Just might have to change the order/direction of drilling because you still need the larger size for the body of the mill mechanism.

Reactions: Like 1


----------

