# Electric chain saw sharpeners



## Digginestdog (Feb 3, 2018)

Anyone have experience with electric chain saw sharpeners? I've been sharpening my chains manually, with a jig, but it's taking soooooo long, I need to find a faster way. Granberg makes a few that had favorable reviews, but I'd like to hear your comments. Thanks, and I hope I'm in the right place for this question?


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## Bigdrowdy1 (Feb 3, 2018)

@woodtickgreg


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## DKMD (Feb 3, 2018)

I’ve used a Dremel a few times when I’ve hit something and really chewed up a chain... otherwise, I file.

I’ve always wondered about the timberline sharpeners. Not electric, but it looks slick and easy.


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## barry richardson (Feb 3, 2018)

I have a dremel attachment, and an Oregon sharpener, which is basically a one-trick dremel. They work OK in a pinch, but dont make it as sharp as a professional sharpener does.


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## Digginestdog (Feb 3, 2018)

Thanks guys. I'll look at those.


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## David Van Asperen (Feb 3, 2018)

I have a cheap harbor freight unit that my father in law bought me it works well But would look at similar ones that do not use the hand grip ( like a bike hand brake) to hold the chain in place while bringing the sharpening blade down to sharpe the cutter. The hand grip tends to tip the chain and you get a uneven cut on the chain links when they are not all the same the chain tends to cut in an arc and not straight. I will get the name of the better sharpener from my father in law if you want it uses a wing nut to tighten the chain in place. I believe the better one was under $100 and the harbor freight one about &50

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Digginestdog (Feb 3, 2018)

Thanks David. I'm interested.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 3, 2018)

I hand file most of the time, usually do about 4 or 5 sharpening and then I use my Oregon grinder to grind all the teeth to the same size. Grinders can be usefull if you know how to use one. Mine was about $350 ish new, it is the same one that most power equipment shops use to sharpen chains for customers. Northern tool sells them reasonably priced.
Here's a link to a thread I did a very long time ago. It may show my grinder.
https://woodbarter.com/threads/chain-rakers-and-how-to-set-them.13341/


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## Digginestdog (Feb 3, 2018)

woodtickgreg said:


> I hand file most of the time, usually do about 4 or 5 sharpening and then I use my Oregon grinder to grind all the teeth to the same size. Grinders can be usefull if you know how to use one. Mine was about $350 ish new, it is the same one that most power equipment shops use to sharpen chains for customers. Northern tool sells them reasonably priced.
> Here's a link to a thread I did a very long time ago. It may show my grinder.
> https://woodbarter.com/threads/chain-rakers-and-how-to-set-them.13341/



Hi Greg, thanks for the info. I checked out the thread on your grinder. I think it is one of the better ones. I've spent the last few hours researching and, found, like you, a lot of people still hand file. I'm not sure I can justify the good grinder just yet, but your method of basically dressing the cutters after 4 or 5 hand filings seems the way to go.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## David Van Asperen (Feb 4, 2018)

@woodtickgreg just went to that link and all good info presented in a manner that I can understand lots of pictures fully show what you are explaining. Thanks for sharing your fantastic info
Dave

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 4, 2018)

Digginestdog said:


> Hi Greg, thanks for the info. I checked out the thread on your grinder. I think it is one of the better ones. I've spent the last few hours researching and, found, like you, a lot of people still hand file. I'm not sure I can justify the good grinder just yet, but your method of basically dressing the cutters after 4 or 5 hand filings seems the way to go.


I have found that in tools you often get what you pay for. Watch ebay for one of the Oregon grinders used, if your patient you'll score one. The one I have is a professional grinder, I have had it probably for 20 years or so. Every small engine shop I have worked in has had this same grinder there for sharpening chains. I have a friend that cuts firewood, he saves all his dull chains and he'll give me like 20 of them to sharpen at a time, the grinder makes quick work of that. It also allows me to custom grind chains for milling.

Reactions: Like 1


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## Digginestdog (Feb 4, 2018)

woodtickgreg said:


> I have found that in tools you often get what you pay for. Watch ebay for one of the Oregon grinders used, if your patient you'll score one. The one I have is a professional grinder, I have had it probably for 20 years or so. Every small engine shop I have worked in has had this same grinder there for sharpening chains. I have a friend that cuts firewood, he saves all his dull chains and he'll give me like 20 of them to sharpen at a time, the grinder makes quick work of that. It also allows me to custom grind chains for milling.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 4, 2018)

Digginestdog said:


> Dave, you've sold me on that grinder. Obviously, you know a lot about it, and, I think my goal will be to get one. In the interim I may need to learn to sharpen faster by hand.


Yes that is a valuable skill to learn, do it enough and you will develop a muscle memory for it. I can usually hand file a chain in less time than it takes to remove a chain from a saw, grind it, and reinstall it. I can do it in the field, but if you can clamp the bar of the saw in a vice it makes it much easier. Mount a vise to a towing hitch reciever and then you will always have one in the field. It's useful for other things as well.

Reactions: Informative 1


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## David Van Asperen (Feb 4, 2018)

@woodtickgreg 
Greg, what is the model number on your grinder. I checked a bit and there are a couple that say pro so just wondering. Thanks in advance for your valued opinion and info
Dave


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## Digginestdog (Feb 4, 2018)

woodtickgreg said:


> Yes that is a valuable skill to learn, do it enough and you will develop a muscle memory for it. I can usually hand file a chain in less time than it takes to remove a chain from a saw, grind it, and reinstall it. I can do it in the field, but if you can clamp the bar of the saw in a vice it makes it much easier. Mount a vise to a towing hitch reciever and then you will always have one in the field. It's useful for other things as well.


 Sorry, Greg, I meant to address that to you. I still don't have the hang of how these posts work.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 4, 2018)

David Van Asperen said:


> @woodtickgreg
> Greg, what is the model number on your grinder. I checked a bit and there are a couple that say pro so just wondering. Thanks in advance for your valued opinion and info
> Dave


Heck I don't know, lol. It's out in the cold garage, next time I'm out there I'll take a look. 
This is probably the equivalent version Of what I have, this is the newer model but still has all of the adjustments.
Oregon 520-120 Bench Saw Chain Grinder


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 4, 2018)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OREGON-510...272917?hash=item20f306f515:g:hZIAAOSwuMFUmHLt
This one looks very much like mine.

Reactions: Thank You! 1


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## David Van Asperen (Feb 4, 2018)

@woodtickgreg , thanks Gregthat is good enough for me ,do not go out . They have probably changed model numbers anyway
Thanks again
Dave


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## Woodworking Vet (Feb 4, 2018)

I tried a lot of electric chainsaw sharpeners (from neighbors, Amazon and so on). I finally got this and can't say enough good things about it. So easy to use, replacement burrs are inexpensive and I can sharpen in the field or at home with an 110v adapter. I never hesitate to sharpen anymore.


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## Mr. Peet (Feb 4, 2018)

electric chainsaw sharpeners, work on gas powered saw chains too....

I agree with Woodtick for the most part. The one thing many forget is that the grinding wheel can super heat the chisel (cutter), and take the temper out of the steel or harden it so that the hand file doesn't work well.

I simply use the electric chain sharpener to balance my chains after 5-10 hand sharpenings. I also use it to adjust the rakers and lower safety links in green rated chains.

I've used stump vises to hold the chain bar in the woods, but broke some using hardwood stumps. I found hemlock stumps work well and have minimal sap issues.


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## justallan (Feb 4, 2018)

Mr. Peet said:


> electric chainsaw sharpeners, work on gas powered saw chains too....


I had to read that one twice!


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## justallan (Feb 4, 2018)

I buy the cylindrical shaped stones and use my Dremel when at the house and it takes probably 3-4 minutes per chain. I have a 12 volt sharpener that goes for $35-40, but don't care for it.
I'll sharpen 4 or 5 chains and carry with me when I'm away from the house and just change them when I need. Sometimes I'll touch them up with a file while I'm having a smoke, but I tend to run a chain to long and it needs more than a touch-up.


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 4, 2018)

With the bench grinders like the Oregon, technique is very critical to not overheat the cutter. It's part of the learning curve.

Reactions: Agree 1


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## Allen Tomaszek (Feb 6, 2018)

I use a 12v sharpener and it does a decent job when I'm out cutting.


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## Alex Beck (Feb 12, 2019)

I started out using a file which works fine but its time consuming. Im currently running half a dozen Stihl saws so I decided to purchase a electric grinder. It was one of the best purchases I've made and paid for itself quickly. Tecomec (if I remember correctly) is Italian made and is the brand I purchased, its around $300-$350 and an excellent machine. I also quickly found of that Tecomec is the OEM that produces the Oregon sharpener so there's no real point in paying extra for the Oregon machine. The biggest advantage to an electric sharpener aside from the time and money savings, is that its accurately sets the bevel & size of each tooth. Over time, as you hand file, you will notice that the bevel and size of each tooth will vary, which can make the chainsaw pull one way in the cut. Also you you sharpen the chain, your raker teeth need to be filed down to allow the chainsaw teeth to get a full bite in the wood. The Tecomec also allows you to quickly grind down the raker teeth as well. Another detail that most sharpeners overlook is creating a gullet in the tooth which allows the tooth to take a larger/heavier shaving. Using that Tecomec sharpener, I can get every chain much sharper than a new factory chain, especially if I take light passes on the grinding process.

Reactions: Like 1 | Useful 1


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## Karl_TN (Feb 13, 2019)

Alex Beck said:


> I started out using a file which works fine but its time consuming. Im currently running half a dozen Stihl saws so I decided to purchase a electric grinder. It was one of the best purchases I've made and paid for itself quickly. Tecomec (if I remember correctly) is Italian made and is the brand I purchased, its around $300-$350 and an excellent machine. I also quickly found of that Tecomec is the OEM that produces the Oregon sharpener so there's no real point in paying extra for the Oregon machine. The biggest advantage to an electric sharpener aside from the time and money savings, is that its accurately sets the bevel & size of each tooth. Over time, as you hand file, you will notice that the bevel and size of each tooth will vary, which can make the chainsaw pull one way in the cut. Also you you sharpen the chain, your raker teeth need to be filed down to allow the chainsaw teeth to get a full bite in the wood. The Tecomec also allows you to quickly grind down the raker teeth as well. Another detail that most sharpeners overlook is creating a gullet in the tooth which allows the tooth to take a larger/heavier shaving. Using that Tecomec sharpener, I can get every chain much sharper than a new factory chain, especially if I take light passes on the grinding process.



Alex, Great information in Tecomec.

For anyone interested, Maverick Mower Supply currently has the Tecomec Grinder Model 700-010 with Hydraulic (same as Oregon Model 620-120) listed for $270.21 (free shipping). This is $30 cheaper than the NON-Hydraulic Oregon model 520-120 on Amazon. You get the hydraulic option and save money at the same time.

https://maverickmowersupply.com/700010-chain-grinder-super-jolly-w-hydraulic-clamp

Reactions: Like 1 | Way Cool 1


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## woodtickgreg (Feb 13, 2019)

Almost makes me want to upgrade my old Oregon.....................almost.


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## Patrude (Feb 16, 2019)

So I have this completely unorthodox method that I've been doing for years. Mind you, I said unorthodox, but its quick and works for me. Keeping the chain mounted I clamp my saw to my bench. Next I chuck the appropriate file into my drill. Set my angle guide lock the chain in place and do all the cutters on one side checking the angle by eye for reference I go from the saw toward the end of the bar. I release the chain lock, move it by hand lock it down , set the reference and go back to it. Woth the file spinning it only takes couple seconds per cutter. Once one side is done I do the other side. Light pressure so I dont snap the file. I'm ready to get questionable reviews on this but as I said it works for me. Takes less out of the chain than the grinder which helps my chains longevitygo easy on me I'm a senior citizen...have a super Saturday

Reactions: Like 2


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## Alex Beck (Feb 16, 2019)

I can see that working, I used a dremel attachment before I purchased the electric grinder and its essentially the same idea. I'll point out a few things that affect my consideration for sharpening & chain longevity. Typically, I may get 7 or more sharpenings out of a chain which is about the duration I can run chain before the stretch becomes so excessive that I cannot properly tension the chain on the bar. I may get heavier wear on the chain due to filings down the raker teeth to allow to take larger chips and cut quicker so some folks may not see as much stretch on their chains. That being said, I can purchase oregon 20in chain at 3/8 kerf 72 count 0.050 chain for about $12-$15 per chain, when I purchase a 4 or 5 pack. For myself, the chains are so cheap I consider them disposable after half a dozen or more sharpenings. Stihl chain is slightly tougher as the teeth are a bit harder, you can tell when your sharpening it on the grinding wheel but at $25-$30 per chain its not worth it for me. If I were only running 1 or 2 saws, I dunno if I could justify the $300 investment of the electric grinder, after all, you could easily purchase 20-25 new chains and keep a stockpile.


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## David Hill (Feb 16, 2019)

woodtickgreg said:


> Heck I don't know, lol. It's out in the cold garage, next time I'm out there I'll take a look.
> This is probably the equivalent version Of what I have, this is the newer model but still has all of the adjustments.
> Oregon 520-120 Bench Saw Chain Grinder
> 
> ...


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